M I D L O T H I A N

A . " M L U M M . L A L . B . ALE . c C , , L

W ith Dia x a m s s Maps, g and Illustration

C a m b ridge a t th e Un i vers i ty Press

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CONTENTS

M o County a n d Shire . idl thian

o o General Characteristics . P siti n ditio n s

S . S o ize hape . B undaries

Surface and General Features .

Watershed . Rivers . Lakes

Geo logy and So il Natural History

Peregrinati o n of th e Coast

Cli m ate and Rainfall — o o o n Pe ple Races , P pulati Agriculture

Industries and Manufactures Mines and Minerals Fisheries Shipping and Trade fl CONTENTS

A ntiquities — Architecture (a ) Ecclesiastical — Architecture (b) Military Municipal — Architecture (d) Dom estic — Com m unicatio ns Past and Present

Adm inistrati on

Th e Ro ll o f H onour

Th e Chief Towns and Villages o f Midlothian ILLU STRATI ON S

Edinburgh fro m th e Castl e Th re ipm u i r Reservo ir Arth ur ’ s Seat Hawth o rnde n

o River Esk , R slin Glen Duddi ng sto n Loch Fault Fo rm ati o n o f Rift valley Crag and Tail

m o Cra nd Brig . Po rto bell o Prom enade Wind Ro se Curves sh o wing th e co m parative gro wth o f th e po pulati o ns o f Lanarkshire and Midl othian Newbattle Abbey New h aven

o Four Generati ns , Newhaven Fishwives Lei th Piers

o th e of 1 Edinburg h Castle , as it was bef re sieg e 5 7 3 R o slin Castle Th e B o re Sto ne Musselburgh Bridg es

' Mary Og een o f Scots viii ILLUSTRATIONS

Sw o n anst . Edinburgh Castle Weapo ns of th e Sto ne and Bro nze Ag es

o o Urn f und at Mag dalen Bridge , J ppa St Margaret ’ s Chapel H o lyroo d Chapel St ’ Giles , Edinburgh o R slin Chapel . R o slin Chapel and Prentice Pillar Corsto rp h ine Church Crichto n Church

Th e o Du ddi n ston J ug s , g Church Dal h ousie Castle Merchisto n Castle Scottis h Regalia M o ns M eg B o rthwick Castle and Church Crichto n Castle

Town Hall , Musselburg h

m o Old Parlia ent H use, Edinburg h ’ Geo rge Heri ot s H o spital ’ D o nalds o n s H o spital

Dean Bridg e , Edinburgh . ’ Ioh n Kn o x s H ouse Ho lyrood Palace and Abbey ’ ( een oom o o b Mary s Bedr , H lyr od Dalkeith H ouse Hawtho rnden Castle

o Pinkie H use, Musselburg h O x en f oo rd Castle

Th e So Luggie , utra John Kn o x ’ Sto ne m arking approxi m ately th e place of Knox s grave ILLUSTRATI ONS i x

’ Scott s Statue i n th e M o num ent

’ ’ Bu rn s s Monum ent and Arthur s Seat R o bert Ferg usso n Allan Ra m say G eo rge Buc h anan Dr Joh n Bro wn Robert Lo uis Stevens o n

Th e C o Svs a n sto n ttag e , f Francis , Lord Je frey Si r Ralp h Abe rcro m by Si r H e n ry Ra e b u r n Crai g m illar Castle S Princes treet , Edinburg h

G ra s s m a rk et i , Ed nburg h

( a dra n le i i e i Old b g , Ed nburg h Un v rs ty

Fettes C o ll eg e .

o i S o o n R yal H g h c h l , Edi burg h i Greyfriars C h urc h , Ed nburg h

’ Si r S o o ta w Walter c tt s C t g e , Lass ade

o m C uncil C h a bers , Leit h Po lton Penicuik C h urc h Va lley fi e ld Pape r Mills and Pen icuik Diag ra m s

MAP S

Orog raphical Map o f M idl oth ian Geol og ical Map o f M idl oth ia n Rainfall m a p o f Sco tland

Th e o o n . 1 2 6 1 1 1 0 illustrati ns pp 9 5 , , 3 7 , 4 7 , 5 , and

1 a re o e o m o o R i i 5 4 repr duc d fr p h t g ra p h s by Messrs W . tc h e and x ILLUSTRATIONS

S 2 2 o n o n . 8 8 8 ; those pp 3 , 9 , 7 , 7 , . 4 , 9 3 ,

1 10 2 1 16 1 1 1 1 12 0 12 1 12 8 12 9 6 , 9 8 , 0 0 , , , 7 , 9 , , , , 9 ,

I I S 7 , 8 8 ,

2 a r V S 0 3 e from photographs by Messrs J . alentine and ons ; those ’ 1m Knox o n . 1 16 6 a re . o m 0 pp . 9 , and reproduced fr Cowan s 7 ’

o r f . m o n . 1 c u tes o . S 0 by y , Messrs. G P Putna s ons ; that p 7 is

o b m o f th e S o f o f repr duced . y kind per ission ociety Antiquaries

S o n . 1 2 1 1 6 1 1 18 1 18 2 a re cotland ; those pp . 7 , 7 3 , 7 , 7 7 , 7 9 , , and

m o . r m o n 1 fro ph tograp h s by Messrs T and R . A an , and that p . 7 4 from a photog raph by Mr E m ery Walker . 1 C o a n d S h e . M l o h a . u nty i r id t i n .

For purposes o f administration Scotland is divided ” into portions known as Shires o r Counties . Shi re is usually said to be cognate with “ share ” and to mean “ ” is n ow u division , but this derivation disp ted a county is the district which was at o n e time under the jurisdiction

a s of a Count . The division goes back far as we have w o f ritten record , although the number Sh ires has varied in c ourse of time and the boun daries have not always

o fli c ia l remained the same . Th e who represented the ’ King s a u thority in the shire wa s known a s the Shire reeve or Sh erifl ; and sheriffdoms were modi fied in number and in area from time to time as was found convenient . Thus in 13 0 5 there were at least twenty fi - ve , while at present there are thirty three .

s h e rifido m o f Probably , the Edinburgh originally extended over the whole of the Lothians ; later it was “ defined a s a district extending from C olb ra n dspa th (n o w Cockburnspath) o r Edgeb u c klin Brae on the east to the ” water of Avon o n the west ; by limitations made at various times it was reduced till it coincided with the

a s 18 0 county now defi ned ; and again , since 7 the

Sh erifl' o f Edinburgh exercises jurisdiction over Midlothian ,

Linlithgow , Haddi n gton , an d Peebles .

M . M . 2 MIDLOTHIAN

Th e district of Lothian varied in extent from time to time, the name being vaguely applied to the low country south of the Forth as far as the Tweed . The significance of the name is uncertain . It may be derived from the G aelic word for marsh or mire or alluvial land

' or it may be c c mn ec ted with the Saxon word for the ’ léoa a léod people , , or that for a chief, , in which case the term may have been applied to distinguish the Saxon inhabitants of the region from the Celtic tribes among whom they had settled . Whatever its origin the name has had several forms ; the G aels called it Leth ea d ; the

S Loth e n e n axons, ; while its Lati form was usually

ia Lodon e . Colloquially it was pronounced Lowden , as ’ A ” . . S S . in R L tevenson s poem , Lowden abbath Morn Th e name is n ow restricted to the counties of

Linlithgow, Edinburgh , and Haddington , which are M id known respectively as West , , and East Lothian .

Ecclesiastically, the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale corresponds roughly to the three civil districts named s with the addition of Peeble shi re and part of Lanarkshire .

h a e e a l C a e s . 2 . G n r r ct ristic Pos iti on n d Na a l C n a tu r o ditions .

Forming part of the southern shore of the Firth of

Forth , containing tracts of the most fertile land in the kingdom and extensive areas of hill country well adapted for grazing, and having within its borders a rich coal

fi eld , Midlothian is at once a maritime, an agricultural

4 MIDLOTHIAN

‘ l a a as to ra . p , and an industrial region With the c pital o tgth e h ‘ country for its c ief town , it may be regarded as the metropolitan county of Scotland , having a share i n the legal , administrative , and educational functions of the metropolis . The harbours of Leith and G ranton are convenient gateways to the busy agricultural and manufacturing district round about them ; fleets of steamers pass to and fro carrying to continental ports coal and the varied manufactures of the hinterland and bringing back multi farious cargoes for distribution th roughout the country ;

‘ th e wa ters o f the Firth and of the North Sea beyond yield an abundant harvest to the trawlers of G ranton and the fishermen of Newhaven and Fisherrow ; the collieries provide fuel for the household fires o f the city and power for many factories and engineering works ; the farmers of th e Lothians are famous the world over for their skill a n d success in all the arts of husbandry ; and the quiet walks of the Pentlands and the M oorfo ots aff ord sustenance

of to numerous flocks sheep . Midlothian occupies the central eastern part of the belt of lowland which lies between the two great table lands of Scotland— the Highlands and the Southern

Uplands .

e Edinburgh , the Heart of Midlothian , is in latitud b ' ” ° ' " 55 57 2 3 north and longitude 3 10 3 0 west . The same parallel of latitude passes near or through Copen e hag n in Denmark, Moscow in Russia, the peninsula of

Kam c h a tka A f in the east of sia, Prince Rupert , the new port i n Vancouver, and the inhospitable region of Labrador ; GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS 5

and . a striking contrast may accordingly be instituted between the equable conditions prevailing in our district r n d . o a those of the more less favoured regions named . It is i nteresting also to notice that Edinburgh is really a , l ittle further west than Liverpool or Bristol , though these

o f are situated on the opposite coast the country . Th e position of Midlothian o n the sheltered waters

f o f o the Forth , with the safe anchorage Leith Roads

o ff j ust its shores, would in any case have given it a

certain importance . Conveniently placed for trade with the Continent and having within its bounds the historic

capital of the country , the county has had its importance

of greatly enhanced ; while the advantages a fertile soil ,

c oa lfi eld skilfully and carefully farmed , as well as a rich ,

to have added still further its wealth and greatness .

. S z e S h 3 i . a p e . B ou nd a ri e s .

o f Measured from west to east, the greatest length

the county is 36 miles ; its breadth from north - west to south - east is 24 miles ; and its area is 3 7 0 square miles As or acres . compared with other counties o f

S - cotland, it comes twenty second in magnitude of land

. O u t of n area Inverness, the largest county, eleve and a quarter M idlo th ia n s might be carved whereas it is about

seven and a half times bigger than Clackmannan , smallest S of cottish shi res . A In shape it resembles an ustralian boomerang, with its convex side to the north and the ends turned to the s - - outh east and south west respectively . 6 MIDLOTHIAN It is bounded on the north by the Firth of Forth on the west by Linlithgowshi re ; on the south by the

an d counties of Lanark, Peebles , Selkirk ; and on the east by Roxburghshire , Berwickshire and East Lothian . The boundary with West Lothian is marked out by the course of the Almond and its tributary the B reic h Water ; the southern limit is determined by the ranges of the Southern Pentlands and the M oo rfoots ; while the eastern follows the line of the M oo rfo o ts in its southern

B roth ersh iels portion , and Dean Burns in the middle , and a variously named ridge of high ground in the northern .

. S f a a n d n e a l F a 4 u r ce G e r e tu re s .

From the coast of the Firth of Forth in the north there is a gradual rise inland and southward towards the

M oo rfoot Pentlands and the Hills . The long slope between the hills and the sea may be described as a tilted plain dipping to the north . To the east this plain is terminated by the long ridge ' already mentioned— Roman — Camp Hill that separates Mid and East Lothian ; to the west it is continued into Linlithgowshire and the

Carse of Stirling and Falki rk . Through the midst of

M - the plain in idlothian runs, from south west to north

o f east , the ridge the Pentland and the B raid Hills , which A A ’ thus divides it into two basins . part from rthur s Seat and the Calton Hill the eastern slope is broken only by gentle undulations ; bu t the western portion is more SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 7

o f irregular . For seven miles west Edinburgh the plain

is fairly broad and continuous, but otherwise there are

few level spaces of any considerable area . Rather has

o f the surface the appearance long waves, rising in successive ridges which run nearly east and west ; and even this regular alternation o f ridge and valley is broken by the presence here and there o f eminences wh ich rise

sharply out of the plain .

Thus it will be seen that , though there is nothing of

n o f the majestic or grand in the sce ery the county , there

o f is yet abundance pleasing variety . The peculiarly characteristic feature of the district— the occurrence of steep crags with gentle Slopes tailing o ff from them

adds a strikingly picturesque element to the landscape .

Finely wooded parks , deep and narrow glens, diversify

the surface , and alternate with the fertile, highly cultivated farmlands of the northern plains ; the steep slopes of the Pentlands and the rounded rolling heights o f the Moor foots shut i n the prospect to the south while the waters

O c h ils of the Forth , with the hills of Fife, the , and the G rampians rising in succession beyond, complete a scene

of rare variety and beauty . Three miles south of Edinburgh the Pentland Hills

rise abruptly o u t of the plain and extend in a south - west

o f direction through the middle the county , continuing

n o f into the eighbouring shires Peebles and Lanark .

is Thei r length about sixteen miles, thei r breadth from

ix s . T four to hey do not form a continuous chain ,

of being cut into by many cross valleys, some which afford passage from the o n e side of the hills to the 8 MIDLOTHIAN

other . Thus, about the middle of the range , th rough the Ca u ldsta n e Slap between the East and the West

Cairn Hill , an old drove road leads from Lothian into Tweeddale and connects two main routes that pass along either flank of the hills— the one on the north being

the Edinburgh and Lanark , and that to the south the A Edinburgh and Dumfries road . nother of these old drove roads led from Currie by the Kirk Loan and ’ the Maiden Cleuch to House 0 Muir on the south - east

— of side once the scene famous cattle trysts .

The chief heights in order from north - east to south; west are Allerm u i r Black Hill C a rn ethy Scald Law West Kip East Cairn West Cairn Mount Maw C ra igen ga r By reh o pe Mount A s they

pass to the south the hills decrease in altitude , and they are connected by an i rregular group of heights with

B roughton Hills in Peeblesshire , which may be regarded

as the commencement of the Southern Uplands .

G len c o rse Burn or Logan Water, the Water of Leith

itS v tribu ta ries f and , and Lyne Water lowing to Tweed . d are the main channels of Pentlan drainage . The streams and springs in many cases have been impounded to supply water for the needs o f the metropolis and thus various e res rvoirs have been formed . The rounded hillslopes are in some parts bleak and covered with heather in others they are clad with grasses ff which a ord splendid pasture for sheep . Several of the gullies which the hill streams have carved in the range are remarkable for thei r romantic beauty '

10 MIDLOTHIAN

the denudation of a triangular tableland , they form two broken lines of isolated hills and groups of summits, usually rounded and rolling in outline , and of bleak moorland character suited only to the pasturing of sheep . They reach their highest point in Bla c kh ope (or Bla keu p)

S 2 1 6 n a car ( 3 the loftiest ground in the cou ty . G la

a fllu en ts Water and its , Heriot Water, and Luggate fl Water, drain their eastern ank into Tweed, while the S S N outh Esk and the outh and the orth Middleton Burn , G wh ich unite to form the ore, itself a tributary of the

o n - South Esk, are the main streams their north western slope, carrying their waters to the Firth of Forth . The axis of the Pentland ridge is continued th rough the Braid Hills and Blackford Hill towards the Forth . “ ” 6 8 The furzy hills of Braid reach a height of 9 feet, and from them there is a noble prospect of th e rich champaign country stretching away to east and west,

. and o f the southern districts of the city guarded by the couchant lion of Arthur ’ s Seat and rising to the

Rock ,

th e Where huge castle holds its state, th e And all steep slope down ,

to th e Whose ridgy back heaves sky , m Piled deep and assy , close and high , Mine own rom antic town

B ra idislee O n the hills of Braid , where Johnnie of once hunted the dun deer, the city golfers in thei r hundreds n owenjoy a milder sport . The Braid Burn has cut a deep and picturesque glen between the Braids and Blackford , SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES

o n whose uncultured breast, m th e m A ong broo and thorn and whin ,

b o I th e A truant y , sought nest , I Or listed , as lay at rest ,

o n While rose , breezes thin , m m of th e The ur ur city crowd , m And , fro his steeple jangling loud , ’ ” Saint G iles s m ingling din .

O f the numerous hills o f volcanic origin with which

o f the plain the Lothians is dotted , specially interesting are those that ring round the city of Edinburgh . The ’ ’ whole of Arthur s Seat (8 2 2 feet)is included in the King s ’ Park, and the Queen s D rive encircles it at varying alti ' ’ a s Sa m son tudes . The basaltic columns known s Ribs ff form a lofty cli on the southern side of the hill , and on the west Salisbury Crags sweep round in a bold curve of precipitous rock with a smooth straight slope o f grass covered detritus descending to low ground beneath . From the south - west the hill presents the familiar aspect of the “ ” Li on Couchant . 8 The Calton Hill (34 feet), with its many public

u mon ments and buildings, is the Mars Hill of the Modern A A thens, as the Castle Rock (43 7 feet)is the cropolis .

To the south - west rise the twin heights o f East and

C ra i loc kh a rt 0 West g (55 feet), named from the old peel

o f tower, built by Lockhart Lee , the ruins of which still stand near the western base . The summit and slopes of the hill are now occupied by a lunatic asylum , a poor

h drO a th ic house , a fever hospital , a y p establishment , and a golf course .

SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 13

20 Corstorphine Hill (5 feet), finely wooded and

r C lerm isto n c owned with Tower , a memorial of the o 18 1 Sc tt Centenary celebrated in 7 , is a conspicuous “ f o f eature on the western outskirts the city, and Rest

’ and - b e- thankful o n its eastern slope is a favourite view point . “ o f Ratho parish , the place the raths or bill forts, h a s two abrupt eminences similar in c haracter to the fore

— Ka i m es 6 8 0 going Hill and Dalmahoy Crag ( feet), twin heights cut o ff from the Pentlands by the valley of Leith

Water , fronting precipitously towards the west , and form

ing a prominent feature in that part of the Lothian plain .

. W a s h e e . v s . a k s 5 t r d Ri e r L e .

s 10 e o f The general p the county, as already described , is to the north and east ; and the drainage accordingly is mostly carried to the Forth from the Pentlands and the

- M oo rfo ots h e , which form the main watershed . T south

east corner however, the parishes of Heriot and Stow,

o ff o f are in this respect cut from the rest the county,

the drainage o f the south - east slope of the M oo rfo o ts a n d the south - west side of the La m m e rm oo rs being

carried south into Tweeddale . O n the northern plain

the chief streams , in order from west to east, are the

A o f L lmond , the Water eith , the B raid Burn , the Sten

‘ Esk : G house Burn , the , and the Tyne ala Water gathers t h e drainage of the southern slope . The A lmond flows throug h the county for only a few 14 MIDLOTHIAN

miles in the middle part of its course . To begin with , it 0 f is a Lanarkshi re river, rising at an altitude of 7 0 eet in

the parish of Shotts . Flowing in an easterly di rection

th rough Linlithgowshire , it touches the boundary of Mid A lothian near the village of Livingston . fter passing through part of M idc a lder parish it again forms the boundary between M id and West Lothian till it reaches

the Firth of Forth at Cramond . The boundary between these counties in the southern part is formed by Breic h A Water, a tributary of the lmond , which joins the latter at the point where it first touches Midlothian . Two good trouting streams are Lin h ou se Water from the A Pentlands, which joins the lmond on the right near M idc a lder G , and the ogar Burn which , after a winding course from near the middle of Kirknewton parish , falls A into the lmond near Turnhouse . Th e length of the Almond from source to sea is about f 2 . o 4 miles The lower part the course is winding,

fla t was through and fertile country, which subject to flooding until the river banks were raised and strength

N sea A ened . ear the the lmond cuts th rough a ridge in

M id a ld r . c e a deep , finely wooded gorge Between and Kirkliston the Union Canal crosses the stream in an

is b aqueduct . Further down , the valley spanned y the lofty viaduct o f the Edinburgh and G lasgow branch of the North B ritish Railway . “ Th e o f Water Leith , the water of the hollow, the head streams of which rise in the Pentlands near the

1 0 0 s ea - West Cairn Hill , 4 feet above level , flows in a north - easterly direction for about 2 3 miles to the sea WATERSHED RIVERS LAKES 15

at Leith Harbour . Its course is thus fairly rapid , and this fact has led to its being so much used as to merit the de “ of S scription the hardest worked river in cotland , a most ” 1 serv iceable drudge that is by no means spared . In 79 3 there were no fewer than 8 0 mills of diff erent sorts on ten miles of its course ; and though the number is much ff decreased , corn and flour mills , snu mills, and paper mills

o f At still make considerable use its current . one time also these industries made the stream the vehicle for con

ve in o f y g away their refuse , and the city Edinburgh like

wise put it to such base uses . But the Water of Leith a Purification Scheme , carried through near the end of l st

century , has changed all that, and trout may now be angled

for in its waters even where they flo wthrough the city . Th e chief tributary is the Ba vela wBurn which joins on the right bank at Balerno : and there are numerous smaller streams draining into it from the north slope of W the Pentlands, along whose base Leith ater flows .

th e In spite of the industrial character of the valley ,

scenery is charmingly varied and picturesque . The bleak its moors and green hills at source, the deep rocky channel

it has carved for itself at the foot of the hills, the open

champaign of its lower course, the romantic gorge within the city bounds— each has its peculiar beauty and each is

rich in historic association .

The Braid Burn rises in the Pentlands , one and a

Bo n a l R half miles from y eservoir, at a height of about

s ea - v 10 0 0 feet above le el , and after a course of nine

miles in a north - easterly direction reaches the Firth of

Fi a te so i a te Forth as the gg , named from the F gg Whins H awt h ornde n

W ATERSHED RIVERS LAK ES 19

The source of the South Esk is at a height of 17 0 0

Bla c kh o e S feet on the western side of p car, the h ighest

r 1 of the M oo foot Hills . The river flows for 9 miles in a ‘ m ee in o f northerly direction to the t g the Esks . Its chief a fli u en ts Redside G are Fullarton or Burn , ore Water , and

Dalhousie B urn . The scenery near Dalhousie Castle and in the park of Newbattle A bbey with its great

of beeches, rivals that the north branch ; wh ile the basin

c oa lfi elds contains rich , giving employment to the miners

e n r n of G orebridge and N wto g a g e . The conjoined river continues its course through the park of Dalkeith Palace , breaks through the ridge on t which s ands the church of Inveresk, and flows into the

old sea between Fisherrow and Musselburgh . The bridge at Musselburgh , if not Roman , is at all events of consider able antiquity .

h a s The Tyne , which a course of five miles near the

e o f middl of the eastern boundary the county, belongs G to East Lothian . ala Water , rising among the Moor

- foots and following a winding course to the south east, carries the drainage of Heriot and Stow parishes to the

- o f G Tweed . The chief tri butaries the ala are Heriot

Water and Luggate .

M o o rfo o ts Most of the lakes in the Pentlands and the , as already noted , are artificial and have been constructed with the obj ect either of providing the city with water, or of compensating proprietors with rights o f use over waters aff ected by such interference with the natural drainage . For the former purpose G len c orse Reservoir was

2— 2 20 MIDLOTHIAN

18 1 —18 8 - formed in 9 2 . It is crescent shaped and has

o f Th rei m u ir much the beauty of a natural loch . p and — Ha rela w were constructed in 18 47 1848 to maintain O supply for m illown e rs o n Ba vela w Burn and Water o f

. 18 0 18 6 8 Clu b b iedea n Torduff Leith B etween 5 and , ,

Lo a n lee B o na l Ha r e rri C ross woo d g , y, p g , and were added 6 to the list . In 18 9 the springs of the M o o rfo ots were

G la dh ouse Ed e la w drawn upon ; and , Rosebery , and g

Reservoirs, all in the basin of the South Esk, were formed .

- e Near the south west boundary with Lanarkshir , Cobbin shaw Loch was made to supply water to the U nion

Canal . In the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh are several

o f natural sheets water, the dwindling remains of the ’ more Spacious lakes of prehistoric times . In the King s ’ Du ddin ston D un sa ie St Park are g , pp , and Margaret s

esta lri Du ddin ston Lochs ; and near R g is Lochend . g ’ - A Loch lies at the south eastern base of rthur s Seat, and , o with its swans and other wild fowl , with its old boath use on the promontory crowned by the ancient church and tower, and with the bold red crags for background , it makes a fine picture on a summer evening ; but it is even more striking in winter when covered with ic e and crowded with skaters and curlers from the city . From its bed many relics of antiquity have been recovered D un sa ppie curves round the foot of a crag on the east shoulder of the hill near the line of the upper Queen ’ s

Drive . St Margaret ’ s is a small sheet of water at the bottom of the hill on the north side .

22 MIDLOTHIAN

Resta lri Lochend is situated near the village of g, and on the cli ff above it once stood the castle of Logan of

R ta lri es g . The loch was formerly much more extensive ; and in 18 7 1 vestiges of the framework of an ancient lake dwelling were discovered near it . It was at one time the source of water supply for Leith .

n Besides those mentio ed , several other lakes are known to have existed in the neighbourhood of the city ; and of

o r . these, two three persisted till comparatively recent times A great lake extended from G ogar to Corstorphine and was continued to the outskirts of the town at Haymarket .

There it may have communicated with the Burgh Loch ,

o f M which covered th e site the eadows, and with the ’ Nor Loch , which encircled the northern base of the ’ N O 1 oc c u Castle Rock . The bed of the Loch is now pied by the North British Railway and by Princes Street

G ardens .

6 l a n d S l . . G e o og y oi — Th e crust of the earth is composed of roc ks which name is applied by geologists not only to the hard coherent

so material popularly called , but also to soft and loose sub

o r All stances such as clay sand . these substances have resulted from the cooling of the gaseous mass which was the original form of our planet . O bviously the cooling would begin o n the outer surface of the glowing globe ; and in the second stage there would be a cold rind of solid matter enclosing a core at a much h igher temperature . GEOLOGY AND SOIL 23

The cooling was necessarily accompanied by contraction , and the contraction resulted in a crumpling and folding of the crust comparable with the wrinkling in the peel of

a dry apple . Moreover, the interior of the earth was sub jec te d to such enormous pressure through this contraction

of the crust that, although its temperature must still be

to a white heat , its mass is calculated be more rigid than solid steel : and if any weakness occurs in the enclosing crust the internal content is apt to be forced o u t to the

surface . Surrounding the solid earth there was formed the

atmosphere, and th is contained much water vapour which condensed on the surface of the Earth and filled its hollows

as the O cean . O n account o f the crust movements caused by c on s traction and internal pres ure, the water has not always A t occupied the same positions on the surface . one time : huge tracts have been heaved up at another, they have

sunk, the seas have flowed over them , and the solid matter of which these tracts are composed has been sifted and re f arranged largely through the agency o the water . Rocks are accordingly classified under two great divi

1 — sions, ( ) igneous or primary those that have resulted directly from the cooling and solidifying o f the gaseous — mass ; (2) aqueous or sedimentary o r secondary those which have been formed by the destruction o f the primary

rocks and the re- deposition ofthei r materials chiefly through

o f the action water . O f the igneous rocks some have cooled on the surface ; others hav e cooled at considerable depths beneath the 24 MIDLOTHIAN

“ h as surface ; and the deeper the cooling, the greater been the pressure under which the rock has formed and the harder and more crystalline is its structure . Thus lava is an igneous rock formed at the surface , while granite is also igneous but has solidified at a great depth and is h ighly crystalline in structure . The effect of pressure is also frequently shown by f oldi ng as in the case of mica schists S and ilurian rocks .

S beddin i . e . edimentary rocks are characterised by g,

or they readily split into beds layers . This character

o f is due to the manner their formation , layer after layer

' b ottom o f sea having been deposited on the the or lake ,

o n e just as might lay sheet upon sheet of paper . In most instances, accordingly, we can tell by the relative position of the layers which stratum of aqueous rock was first laid down and is therefore oldest in time since if the original position has remained unchan ged that which is nearest the surface must be the youngest . In a similar way geologists are able to make a rough calculation of the age of rocks ; for the sa m e process can be seen going on at the present time and the rate of deposition estimated . M o reover, these secondary rocks often contain fossil remains of animals and plants which were living at the time when the rocks were being formed, and these fossils give indications of the conditions, climatic and — other, then prevailing . Indeed palaeontologists those who have studied these remains of ancient life— have classified secondary rocks by the fossils found in them .

o f i e The oldest all , . . the lowest, is named Primary or Palaeozoic ; then come in as cending order Secondary or

26 MIDLOTHIAN

A slip may be due to parallel faults and a wide portion of surface be affected while adjacent areas on either side may remain at the original level . In this way a rift

2 . valley is formed as in the figure on p . 5 h T is is what has happened in Central Scotland .

A great rift valley extends in a south - westerly direction from Kincardineshire and Haddingtonshire on the east l to Renfrewshire and Ayrshire on the west . The Centra Valley owes much of its industrial prosperity to this subsidence : for it has preserved in its depths the coal bearing strata which once extended on either side and which have been entirely denuded from these adjacent areas . Another eff ect of the pressure consequent upon the contraction of the surface is th e folding or rippling of the

of strata, just as a sheet paper is rippled by pressing the edges in towards the middle . The upfolds so formed are known as anticlines and the do wn folds o r troughs as synclines ; and both of these formations are illustrated in

o f the strata the county . Thus the Pentland Hills form o f S an anticline Upper ilurian Rocks (shales and grits), over which the Carboniferous Rocks were upfolded .

i Most of the latter have been denuded , but coarse con glomerates, grits, and sandstones with sheets of felstone and ash belonging to the O ld Red Sandstone group still remain . The continuity of the upfolding strata is also broken by faults parallel with the axis of the Pentland uplift . O n the east o f the Hills extends the Midlothian coal fi eld with its Carboniferous strata rising on the west GEOLOGY AND SOIL 27

o f o n against the Silurian rocks the Pentlands, the south

o f M o o rfoots against the Silurians the , and on the east against the Carboniferous Limestone o f Roman Camp f Hill , which itsel is an upfold sinking again into the Coal

o f Basin East Lothian . O n the outer edges of the basin the strata are in clined at such a steep angle that the coal

seams, which are n ecessarily the lowest and oldest, are “ ” f d n e o a s a s E m o nsto . spoken Edge Coals, at In the

o f middle the basin the seams are flat . To the west of the Pentland uplift the surface consists also of Carboniferous Rocks arranged in a series of folds and broken into every here and there by isolated

of masses intrusive igneous rocks , chiefly greenstone and

In the Midlothian Coalfield , i f we suppose ourselves to strip off layer after layer of the strata from the surface

to inwards, we should find the order be as follows

e G . Soil , Sand , lacial Clay , etc v i Upper Coal Measures .

e ll G . c Mi stone rit

e Carboniferous Limestone series .

r / L . t ower Carboniferous group a c Upper O ld Red Sandstone .

Upper Silurian .

Lower Silurian .

As h a s o f already been noted , with the exception

1 o f to - No . the above , which belongs the Post Tertiary

o r period, these strata are included in the Primary

Palaeozoic group . 28 MIDLOTHIAN

Th e f superficial dri t , clay , sand , and gravel , consists in — - a ff large part of boulder clay or till sti sandy clay , with

. T stones, more or less rounded , embedded in it his was

o f deposited , during a period submergence , by the action f o drift ice . It is found all over the county and reaches

o f 0 10 0 a depth 5 to feet .

Th e M in terstra tified Coal easures are in two series,

fi rec la with sandstone , y, clay ironstone, and shale . They 12 20 M extend to a depth of feet, and rest upon the ill G ‘ 0 stone rit, a coarse red or white sandstone 34 feet

; thick . This is succeeded by the Carboniferous Limestone series, consisting of beds of limestone , associated with

fi rec la coal , ironstone, y, sandstone , and shale . The Lower Carboniferous series was laid down during a period of volcanic activity , as is shown by the contemporaneous occurrence of numerous extruded Trap

: Rocks . The Upper O ld Red Sandstone is found along the i central axis of the Pentlands . It contains the gneous u rocks, formed at the same time , which constit te the prominent features of the Pentland Chain . The Upper ' Silurian Rocks occur in patches entirely h within the range of the Pentlands . T ey are, so to say,

of c the foundation rocks the chain , and are overed unconformably by the previously named series . Th e Lower Silurian Rocks are part of the edge of the Silurian region which forms the tableland of Southern

n e Scotland . O portion of them is found overlapped by the coal measures near Penicuik, and another forms part rf of the M oo oot Hills . GEOLOGY AND SOIL 29

Wh ile these groups or series o f rock beds may be regarded as the normal stratification of the rocks in the

o f county , more striking from the physical point view are the intrusive igneous rocks which have been thrust through and between them . These are known to be

“ contemporaneous with the Silurian series, as in the case of a patch of greenston e at B a vela w; with the O ld Red

S a s o f andstone, in the felstones the Pentlands and with

a s the Carboniferous series, in the trap of the Castle ’ S Da ss es Rock, St Leonard s Hill , alisbury Crags, the , K im a es . Corstorphine Hill , Ratho Hill , Dalmahoy , and the

Crag and Tail

It is probable that there were active su b - aerial volcanoes A ’ at rthur s Seat , the Braid H ills, and in the northern

wa s Pentlands . In most cases the i gneous material

n o t n thrust, through , but into the superi cumbent strata, and subsequent denudation h a s removed the softer aqueous

a s beds and has left the harder volcanic rock exposed , in the case of the Castle Rock . This rock is a fine specimen of a feature very — prominent in the district Crag and Tail . The crag rises steeply from the low ground which extends to the 3 0 MIDLOTHIAN

W th e est, while on eastern side there is a gen t from the summit of the crag to the level o f the surr plain . Evidently this has resulted from the wea rii of the softer material by some agency moving easterly direction . The resistant volcanic rock w this wearing agency and protected the softer roc ” n ow th c east, which forms the tail , covered by of th e old town . Similar formations occur in th e

o f b Hill , which consists volcanic ash supported y lava ; in Corstorphine Hill , where basalt stands the sandstones surrounding it ; in Blackford Hil porphyritic rock presents a steep face to the VI

< south , backed on the eastern side by a long slop protected stratified rocks . The soil of the county varies considerably in There is a marked absence of the calcareous soil are s o important to the agriculturist of the 1. S England . ome of the hills are moorish and others are covered with a thin clay . In the val 1 river basins a deep and rich loam prevails, which greatly improved by cultivation and draining . Corstorphine a black loam of great fertility m e part of the county the garden o f Edinburgh northern and central portions o f the county are fertile ; the south and south - east are mainly

- is n o t and about one third of the area arable . NATURAL HISTORY 3 1

Na a l H s o . 7 . tu r i t ry

Shallow waters surround the British Isles . Nearly all 10 0 the North Sea is under fathoms deep , and therefore

sea 6 0 0 if the bottom were raised feet , less than the ’ o f A height rthur s Seat , it would become dry land , and these islan ds would be joined to the con tinent o f Europe . This would merely be repeating what geologists assure us wa s the case i n ages long gon e by ; and their opinion is corroborated by the botanist and the zoologist , who poi n t o u t that the various species of plants and animals existing in Britain and Irelan d are practically identical with those A m o n the mai n land of Europe . s co pared with the latter, however, the British Isles are deficient , especially m in mammals , reptiles , and a phibians ; the reason being that the final separation took place before many of these

m land ani als had extended their range to B ritain . O n the other han d the isolation has resulted i n the occurrence of a few species which are peculiar to the islands, as the

a s o f red grouse , and certai n fishes such the vendace

Lochmaben . Change in climati c conditions is naturally accompanied

A t n e by change in animal and vegetable life . o ti m e the climate of the reg ion was similar to that of the s u b - arcti c countries of to - day ; and the plants and animals were then A such as are now found in Northern Europe , sia, and

Du ddin ston A merica . In g Loch and also at Cramond remains o f moose an d elk have been foun d em bedded in

' mud ; bones of the mam m oth or hairy elephant have been unearthed at Clifton Hall , near Ratho ; an d some years ago 3 2 MIDLOTHIAN those of reindeer and wolf were dug up from a cleft in

the rocks on the Pentland Hills near Dreghorn . Evidence too has been noted in the Edinburgh area of the existence

Bu t at a later date of the brown bear and the wild boar . human settlement gradually encroached on th e domain of

fi e rc er the wild animals , and the and more dangerous were

hunted down and exterminated . The smoke and dust of industrial centres have also ff T had their e ect in limiting the range of species . hus certain butterflies formerly known in the area are no

' longer observed ; the famous H esperz a d rta x erx es h as not ’ 1868 o n A S o since been captured rthur s eat, which nce it

haunted . Many of the ponds and lochs in the county are pe

uli c a rly rich in the lower forms of li fe . The Upper Elf Loch on the Braid Hills is noted for the number and

- 6 variety of its micro fauna ; 9 protozoa, two coelenterata, and 9 7 rotifera having been identified as existing in its

waters . In the canal at Slateford certain fresh water

sponges are to be found . O mitting mention o f intermediate orders s uch a s those — of spiders and insects more than 38 0 0 species of the — latter have been observed in the area we may note that

trout are numerous in the streams of the county, and that the Water of Leith Puri fication Scheme has once more made angling possible even within the bounds of

. S t h e the city almon are occasionally caught in Esk .

D uddin s ton o Pike, perch , and eels live in g and ther lochs . c Loa h are common locally and are found in B raid Burn ,

Th re i m uir . Lothian Burn , and p Reservoir

3 4 MIDLOTHIAN

S distributed ; and quail are occasionally observed . swallows, sand martins and house martins are still dant in summer ; the various tits are common ; fl and linnets are plentiful ; and sparrows are so num a s to call for special eff ort in keeping them i n che farm pests . For the whole of Scotland 5 7 species o f mamma recorded ; and of these 5 0 have been found in the l burgh area . These include th ree species of bat ;

- sh rews , the hedgehog, and the mole ; wild cat, pol

- weasel , and stoat or ermine ; squirrel , water vole ,

- d vole , bank vole , brown and black rats, house , fiel

a n t harvest mouse , hare , mountain hare, and rabbit ;

- - roe . fallow , and deer The wild cat, the pole cat the marten are now extinct ; but the badger has be e introduced and known to breed in Midlothian in 1 years ; while otters not so long since used to hau n Braid Burn near D u ddin gsto n and the B u rdieh ou se

N iddrie at .

o n 0 0 0 In all , close 7 species have been record

o f included in the fauna the Forth area . Presenting as it does a considerable variety of 5 1

ff n di ering in geological structure and soil , elevatio ff exposure , the county a ords to the botanist a not terestin o f Fo rtl g field . The shores the Firth of

o f valleys its tributary streams, the cultivated plair

s numerous woodlands, the wide moors, and the hill

t h e each their characteristic plant associations, and of the district is accordingly of wide range and

. 0 0 v 10 0 0 e variety More than 4 genera, o er speci NATURAL HISTORY 3 5

varieties o f flowering plants have been enumerated a s occurring in the locality ; the list of ferns and their allies contains 18 genera and 43 species and varieties ; while 20 5 Species and varieties of mosses, liverworts, lichens, and charas have been noted .

- so The short coast line is much occupied by town s,

u is and harbo r and other works, that little space left for the growth of plants characteristic of such a locality but various species o f algae and of plants inhabiting salt marshes and sandy shores are to be foun d here and there o n the coast .

D u ddin s to n is g Loch , which the largest natural lake

m d rundo in the county , abounds in the co mon reed ( Pb rag m i tes)which is a typical marginal plant formin g a

or swamp . In near the loch are also found the celery ’ m leaved buttercup , the great spearwort , are s tail , yellow

- w . flag, marsh and water Speed ell O n the cultivated lowlands many of the species found have been i ntroduced in recent ti m es i n association with various crops .

O f the trees the ch ief i n digenous Species are the oak ,

a s h the birch , the alder, the wych elm , th e , an d the Scots pine : but most o f the woods now existing have been planted by man , and many foreig n trees have been

a introduced ; such as beech , chestnut, lime , syc more ,

Esk larch , and spruce . The upper woods in the valley , 1 0 for example , were all plan ted on moorland above 5 years ago ; below Penicuik they are comparatively recent .

Small natural woods occur , but these too are generally altered by the introduction of planted trees . In the Esk — 3 2 3 6 MIDLOTHIAN valley grow practically all the native and in trodu c ec to be found in Scotland . Deciduous trees occupy the lower altitudes ; the ferous woods cover the hill Slopes at greater ele vz

O f the former type, besides those previously named ,

n s Sloe , gea , rowan , hawthorn , elder, hazel , willow poplars are all more or less common . The Scots ;

s ru « the commonest of the conifers, but larch and p also grown . The valley woodlands are associated with special o f e plants, among which may be named as inter ’ because uncommon in the area, the bird s nest o toothwort , giant horsetail , and cuckoo pint . ’ A S Bla c kforr O n the basaltic hills ( rthur s eat,

B raids, and Dalmahoy)certain plants seem to find a lia rl S m c a t y suitable habitat . uch are aiden pink, red i Spring sandwort , bloody cranesbill , Spindle tree , and

' d r /eni m e ten trz on a le spleenwort ( p u s p ).

of In the locality the conifers, heather begins to a and large tracts o f the hill country are covered b} by various types of grassy heath o r moor . H

1 associations may be classed into heaths, heather and Sphagnum moors according to the amount of 1111

1 present in the soil , the Sphagnum moor being the

f o and most peaty . Examples of all th ree are to be the Pentland area . A few Alpine plants have lingered on in certain on the Pentlands, relics of a time when the c

1 conditions were much more severe . O f these

t Sc bollera Ox c oc c us un i erus c om m un is men ioned y , y p NATURAL HISTORY 3 7

R ubus Cba m a em arus o r Midlothian)and cloudberry, which

last is generally regarded as typical o f arctic - alpine vege ta tio n on peat .

8 P e e n a of th e C a s . . r g ri tion o t

- The coast line extends for about twelve miles, from the mouth of the River Almond i n the west to the

boundary with Haddingtonshi re , a little beyond Leven

o n fo r is hall , the east . The shore the most part either

o r n . sand sh ingle , low , and shelvi g gently seaward Here

W a rdie o ff and there , as at Bush , Leith Harbour , at

of low Joppa, and at West Pans, occur stretches water worn rocks . 2 0 From 5 to 3 feet above the present mean tide mark , a raised beach Skirts the Shore line throughout its entire

o n length ; and it are built Musselburgh , Fisherrow , part of Portobello, and part of Leith . It includes also Leith

o n e a s Links , famous at time a resort for Edinburgh golfers, royal and other . Further inland and parallel with the coast, runs a ridge which appears to represent

s ea — ff an anci ent cli . It begins on the east beyond the

o f o f 10 0 confines the county ; and , at a height about feet

sea - above present level , it curves behind Musselburgh and

Portobello, passes through Edinburgh , and continues to

- r M u i rh ou the north wes behind G ranton and se . This ridge h a s been important historically ; on it in East Lothian

o f was fought the Battle Prestonpans ; in Midlothian , the f Battle o Pinkie . 3 8 MIDLOTHIAN

O ff o Cram nd , sandy flats , with beds of mussels , co

S( and other shellfish , extend beyond Cramond Island it is possible at low water to walk across to the i:

- which lies three quarters of a mile o ff shore . The ff wh ic is large enough to a ord room for a farm , on

is 5 1 grown excellent potatoes . Inch Mickery a still islet , one and a quarter miles to the north “ ic tu r Cramond itself, the fort on the river, a p

< little village , occupies the site of a Roman Stati

o f ff b some importance , evidence this being a orded coins, medals, and other Roman relics which have t b ( discovered in the neighbourhood . A one time it

s h as a harbour accessible to small ves els, but that been silted up ; one or two little plea sure yachts A few rowing boats are now all its fleet . free ferry the Almond is maintained by Lord Rosebery a ' much used by pedestrians taking the private path th :

Dalmeny woods to Queensferry . In the groun 1 Cramond House an old tower still remains, all

wh ic left of the palace of the B ishopric of Dunkeld, — G . once occupied by the poet bishop , avin Douglas About a mile inland on the rising ground behir old beach mentioned above, is situated Lauriston once the property of the celebrated financier Law ( 16 7 1 on whom was written the e pitaph

it c et Ec o s so i s Ci g celebre , C e calculateur sans egale , ’ Og i pa r les regles de la lg eb re ’ ” m i s a lh 6 ita l A France p .

40 MIDLOTHIAN West of G ranton Harbour the policies surrounding “ ” the Tudor mansion of M u i rh ou se come down to the

- shore in a well wooded slope . Two towers of an older house built about 16 70 still remain . G ranton Quarry , from which was excavated the stone

o f used in the construction the harbour and breakwaters, after being breached by the sea was used for some years as a Station for investigating marine li fe .

G o ld — Close to ranton is the fine house Caroline Park , 16 8 G built in 5 by eorge Mackenzie, Viscount Tarbat ,

o f ff S when he was at the head a airs in cotland . It was A afterwards the property of John , Duke of rgyll , who

o f named it in honour Caroline , the sagacious Queen of G eorge II ; but it has now fallen on evil days and is put

u se to prosaic as a factory of ink . From G ranton to Trinity the shore is protected by a

- strong sea wall . Trinity consists to a considerable extent — o f villa residences and had at one time till it was destroyed

— a by a storm chain pier much used by Edinburgh bathers . “ The town is now continuous with Newhaven , O ur ’ G ” Lady s Port of race , which was famous as a harbour

o f and shipbuilding yard in the reign James IV, when “ ” sc h i M ic b a el ane varie monstrous great p, the , the

wa s largest in Europe at that time, built, using up so “ much timber that She waisted all the woodis in Fyfe ” Th e u except Falkland wode . harbo r is now entirely given up to the fishing industry, and the inhabitants of the town are a picturesque and peculiar people , the fish wives in their quaint and characteristic dress being a familiar feature in the streets of the capital .

42 MIDLOTHIAN

A fine stretch of sands, an extensive promenade , h pier make Portobello a popular summer resort . T of the town was formerly a wh in - covered waste k as Fi a te the gg Whins . This wilderness is said to afforded a hiding- place to William Wallace when h on his way to attack Berwick, and at a later tim

sm u much resorted to by less reputable characters,

e and footpads . The first house was built by a s who had served on the Spanish Main and who nam . home after the Spanish town captured by Admiral V in 17 3 9 . O n Portobello Sands a fruitless conference took between Cromwell and the Scots leaders during the pa ign wh ich culminated at Dunbar D rove ; there Bonnie Prince Charlie arrayed h is forces before the 1 to Derby ; and the Sands were also the scene of Sir Walter Scott ’ s military experiences as Quarter o f the Edinburgh Light Horse . At Joppa occurs the group of low rocks already 11 and immediately to the east is the hamlet o f Jop s o named from the salt works, once an important there and at Pinkie Pans , and Still represented .

c o l as the workers were called , were classed with

' a dsc ri tz leba e being p g , bound to the estate as serfs, condition wa s maintained in many cases even up beginning o f last century . A t Magdalen Bridge, where an old toll call ” G entes Custom used to be levied o n beasts of the B urdieh ouse Burn passes under the coas reaches the sea . PEREGRINATION OF THE COAST 43

The harbour o f Fish errowis Situated about half a mile

o f Esk or west of the mouth the Ri ver , at near which point there appears to have been a port o f a kind ever m since Roman times . O nly boats of light draft can ake use of the harbour even at high water . O n either side

Eskm ou th o f of there are fine stretches level links, those

fo r on the east or Musselburgh Side being famed archery ,

- F r tw 6 . o o 1 0 golf, and horse racing months in 5 Crom ’ well s infantry encamped on the links and his o wn tent

in kfi eld stood near L . At this point the sea is going back and in recent years w means have been taken to extend the links sea ard . The mussel bank from which the town takes its name lies o f

B ra /9 bur /J the river mouth . g or g in this case is said to

o f o ld mean mussel bed , and hence the significance the rhyme Musselburgh was a burgh When Ed i nburgh was nane ;

’ ’ An Musselburgh ll b e a burgh ” W h en Edinburgh has g ane .

At Leven h a llthere is again an outcrop of rock o n the

Ra ven s h a u h beach and the g Burn , the boundary between ff Mid and East Lothian , has cut a deep dell in the cli which here overhangs the road leading east to Prestonpans and Dunbar . 44 MIDLOTHIAN

. C l m e n l l 9 i a t a d Ra i nf a . The main factors influencing climate are la

- or distance from the equator, height above sea leve IE position as regards the sea . In the case of the Isles all these factors tend to produce a temperate cli O ur islands lie in that belt of latitude which is k as the Temperate Z one : their general land - level moderate altitude : and the ocean circles them rou that no spot within them is at any great distance fr<

But apart from these general considerations , c Special conditions still further modify for us ext ° 0 6 c of temperature . Within the latitude 5 to

c 0 1 which our islands are placed , there is a fairly

— res drift in air and ocean from the south west , — mainly from two causes di ff erence of temperati ’ ff on di erent tracts the earth s surface , and the

o f east rotation the earth . Warmth and carried by winds and ocean currents ; and , the south - westerly drift comes from the warmer

3 nearer the equator, we find that the western continents are both warmer and wetter than the

: o r Sides , to put the same Statement in another w eastern shores o f the great oceans are warmer western . Thus while the coast of Labrador is i

— i n in winter, our harbours the same latitud all the year round .

- While , as has been hinted , this south weste

is is fairly constant , it not to be supposed that in CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 45

a s unstable body the atmosphere , changes and variations

o f are not constantly occurring . Winds are the result diff erences of atmospheric pressure . Just as gravitation

so causes water to seek a lower level , the same force causes air to flo wfrom a region where pressure is high to

i is o n e where it s comparatively low . The atmosphere

v of thus constantly mo ing in huge waves, the crest a wave causing a high pressure , while the trough is an f lw air region o o pressure . These wind movements are known as anti - cyclone and cyclone respectively ; the

is former, indicated by a high barometer , accompanied by

sk light ai rs, clear y, and fi ne weather ; the latter sends down the barometer an d brings strong winds , cloud , and rain . It happens that o ur islands lie i n a regular path of ’ N A cyclonic disturbances . In the orth tlantic two fairly well - defi n e d areas o f pressure are commonly to be found an area o f low pressure in the neighbourhood of Iceland

o n e of A and high pressure in the latitude of the zores . O ver the land su rface of Europe there is in summer a low pressure centre , and in winter a high pressure area . Accordingly in summer the air is drawn in to the Con tin en t A a s n from the tlantic a westerly wi d , whereas in winter it is drawn more to the north and is therefore

- a south westerly wind .

Cyclones have a double or combined motion . In the

first place , winds blow in from all sides towards a centre of low pressure and the result is a huge c ircular eddy m which , in the Northern He isphere, moves i n a direction

A n d opposite to that of the hands of a clock . secondly , 46 MIDLOTHIAN the cyclone passes onwards round the world in an ez

o course s that the combined movement is Spiral .

0 frequently , we find cyclones coming up out

A o n u - . tlantic , striking th e so th west coast of Irelan passing over our islands in a north - easterly dire They have a very considerable influence on our cli and as the relations of low pressure to high pressure are being more fully observed and understood , the me logist is becoming more able to make an a ccurate fo

u r of o weather . Records of wind direction are available for Edin

n over more than a century, and from these we l ea the mean annual percentage o f frequency of winds 6 6 “ N . 1 E E . . S. . follows : N . 4 ; . 7 ; E ; S 7 ; ; S N W 2 . . W . 3 ; . 7 ; calms and variable breezes, 4 If W N W ’ S. . . . . fore we take together , W and we sha

1 that winds from these points make up 56 per cent .

: to sa 20 0 th i whole that is y, on more than days in the wind comes from a westerly direction . That i trees growing in exposed places in our district so

on ea s look lopsided , with growth more evident their Th e accompanying figure is intended to ex h i a graphic way the relative frequency of the dii

4 winds . O n a compass card showing eight points, are drawn at equal distances from the common c All each circle indicating an additional 5 per cent . W W : . . . S. . from W N W to . are called west all

N W 0 W . N . W . to N . N . W . are called . . and so o n the chart we fill in the winds according t

if frequency figures already given , we shall have a p CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 47

representation o f the proportional time duri ng which each wind has blown indicated by the size of the segment

representing it .

As u - has been noted , winds from the so th west are

W ind R o s e

' (s /z owm g wi n d -fi egu en zy a t E dm bu rg /z )

both warm and moist . We Should therefore expect to — find that the west side o f the coun try especially where hills meet the m oisture - laden air - current and cause precipitation by forci ng it u pwards to colder strata o f the 48 MIDLOTHIAN

— atmosphere would have a greater rainfall and be re l A a tively warmer than the eas t . ccordingly we learn that in the year 19 0 9 the rainfall at Leith was 30 6

G 6 0 8 F o rtwillia m 66 inches, at reenock , and at 9 ; wh ile

Kin lo c h u o ic h at q on Loch Hourn , Invernessshire , the S wettest station in cotland for the year, the fall was 1 inches . The year 9 0 9 was wetter than usual in

Edinburgh district , and the contrast is even more marked in a normal year ; the mean annual rainfall at Edinburgh over a long series of years being only inches . It is to be further observed that even within the o f comparatively small area the county variation is found . Thus the rule that more rain falls the greater the altitude is exemplified by a comparison of the records for Leith ,

s ea - practically at level , Cockburn Hill near Balerno at

6 Bowb a te M oo rfoots 7 7 feet, and in the at an elevation o f 20 2 0 6 4 feet ; the figures being respectively 3 inches,

2 0 . 43 5, and 5 9 Fo r the same year at 57 stations over Scotland the average precipitation was inches : for 28 observation — stations in Midlothian it was 10 inches below the general average . The number o f days in the year on which rain falls 16 1 : 2 1 10 averages snow falls on days ; and hail on .

on 6 In the year there are the average thunderstorms, and

2 9 gales . It is somewhat surprising to be told that the rainfall is

i n least Spring and winter, and greatest i n summer and autumn ; A ugust being the wettest month of the year A and July coming second, while pril is driest .

5 0 MIDLOTHIAN

Edinburgh is comparatively well o ff in respect of

o f 1 sunshine, having a percentage 3 of the total possible . The average amount recorded for a year is 13 88 1 hours as compared with 10 9 5 at G lasgow and

140 1 at Aberdeen . The mean number of days in a month on wh ich the su n shines fo r an appreciable time is

1 fo 239 . O n 5 days in the year g or mist is experienced ; and the “ haar ” which is sometimes rolled in by an east wind from the Firth o f Forth is a well - known if some what unwelcome visitor to places near the coast . This same east wind is indeed somewhat notorious in the

o r n ot district . In Spring early summer it is at all uncommon fo r Edinburgh to have a spell of two or th ree — - weeks east or north east wind cold , dry , and bitter ; T trying to the stranger within the gates . his phenomenon is probably due to an extension o f the continental high

Th e pressure area . east wind is sometimes accompanied by persistent rain : but it is n o t unlikely that the rain may result from the condensation of moisture in an upper current coming in an opposite direction when it meets the lower cold easterly current .

In spite of this liability to visitation by the east wind , Edinburgh enjoys on the whole a pleasant and equable

is climate . From observations recorded over fifty years it found that the average diff erence between the mean temperature of the th ree coldest months of the year and ° f 1 that o the three warmest is under 9 F . In other words the seasonal range of temperature as between winter and summer is n o more than whereas at ° Moscow in the same latitude the range is 49 and in the CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 5 1

° interior of Siberia a range of 10 5 is n ot unknown . We may ta ke it that this absence o f extremes in our local temperature is largely the result o f the south - westerly dri ft of air and sea and o f the constantly occurring cyclones bringing to these shores the warmth and moisture

of of the Atlantic O cean . O nly when the set the air currents is reversed are we likely to experience the continental cold o r drought . When this happens in winter and we have the anti - cyclonic area o f high - pressure

‘ spreading outwards to our islands, clear frosty weather

Supervenes : but whenever the high - pressure wave passes inwards to the mainland again , up comes the warm ocean wind and banishes the frost .

— 10 . Pe le a e P l a op R c s , op u tion . Probably the earliest inhabitants of Scotland were

- - : Short, dark hai red , and long skulled they have been called

Silu f es I vern ia n s or . They were hunters, and used stone weapons, relics of wh ich have been found in various T places . heir dwellings were sometimes underground ,

i - somet mes in peculiar tower like Structures called brochs, and sometimes on artificial islands or crannogs in the

is - middle of lakes . It not unlikely that the folk tales “ of the mysterious little people were founded o n memories of this early race . They were conquered by — a branch of the great Celtic family the G oidelic o r G aelic ; but the conquest wa s rather the introduction o f a ruling sept than a complete extinction of the conquered . — 4 2 5 2 MIDLOTHIAN The Celtic language became the speech of the people but thei r physica l characteristics remained the same to A a great extent . lthough it is known that the Celts

- S were a broad skulled race , the inhabitants of cotland

- continued to be of the long skulled type . The G oidels were followed by another branch of the

Celtic race , namely the Brythons , who occupied the south of Scotland .

Before the coming of the Romans, the Celts of S cotland, to give the inhabitants the name by which they have come to be known , had reached a fairly advanced

o f so stage civilisation , with a knowledge of metals, that

o f their weapons were bronze or even of iron . It is impossible to state exactly the boundaries of the tribes in the south - east of Scotland in the first century of our era . The seaboard from the Tyne (in Northumberland) to the Firth of Forth seems to have been occupied by a division of the B rigantes, known to the Romans as ’ deni a s ta lin i tta O . the O (or, in Ptolemy s map , ) To

a den i the west lay the land of the G . From the time of

Agricola this region was held by the Romans . When ever thei r power was weak, the Caledonians from the north would rush in ; and after the middle of the fourth century Roman B ritain suffered more and more from S assaults by Picts from the north , cots from the west, and Angles and Saxons from the east . In a short time a wedge o f Picts was driven in along the Pentlands and N Teutons from over the orth Sea settled along the coast . By the beginning of the seventh century when the various tribes of North Britain were grouped into the PEOPLE— RACES POPULATION 5 3

Da lria da kingdoms of , Pictland , Strathclyde , and Bernicia,

o f the Lothians were inhabited by a mixed race Britons, A Picts, and ngles . O ne result of the mixture of races inhabiting the

- Lothians is seen in the place names, in which may be

o f A traced the influence Celts and ngles, and possibly even , to a Slight extent , of the earlier race . Thus

is Pec h tla n d Pentland , more properly , the land of the

Pechts or Picts ; and Dalmeny may be Dun Mannan , the

o f M fort the Picts of annan , who left their name also at

is h esterh a ll Slamannan and Clackmannan . There a C in

u s o f Midlothian , which may remind a Roman Camp

c a stra B ut ( ) at that place . the great maj ority of the

- or A - n place names are either Celtic n glo Saxo in origin , the older set, the Celtic , being attached to natural features or to places named from these , while the later English f names are chiefly those o towns and villages . Thus

A Esk the rivers lmond , Leith , and have Celtic names ;

B r a d so G . a have the hills, such as the Braids ( , a breast),

C a l/tui m To r h in Torr G . G . Calton ( , hazels), p ( , a roun d

D ru m sh e u h D ru m se lc h G . steep hill), and g , formerly (

D rum sea / g , the ri dge of hunting), which was the name o f the forest that Stretched south o f Edinburgh . Celtic

C a er also are such old village names a s Cramond (G . d m uin , the stronghold on the river), Roslin (the headland of rurra b the pool), Currie ( g , a marsh), and Ratho (the place of the forts). The numerous village and farm names ending in ton

rene are obviously of English origin . G ranton is the g tun : so a s Liberton is the town of the lepers, named far 5 4 MIDLOTHIAN

’ back as Malcolm C a n m o re s time and long resorted to on “ ” account of the healing properties of the oylie- well or “ balm- well of Saint Catherine : Newbattle is niwe bot] : S , the new house tow is the place ; it was once called the Stow of W eda le and is still Spoken of loca lly ” as the Stow .

Bu rdieh ou se Interesting are (Bordeaux house), and “ ” u Little France , as reminding us of the a ld alliance,

en ten te c ardi a le n the of an earlier day , betwee France and S cotland . They were named from being inhabited by

o f M Frenchmen in the days Queen ary . Picardy Place

l blea c h fi eld was origina ly Little Picardy , a on the out

o f skirts Edinburgh , where , in the fi rst quarter of the eighteenth century, French weavers, brought over by the St Board of Manufactures from Quentin , taught cambric weaving to their less Skilled Scots brethren of the craft . Portobello is reminiscent o f its prototype on the Spanish 1 Main , at the taking of which in 739 the founder of the later town was present . A t the census o f 19 0 1 M idlothian Stood second in S order o f the counties of cotland in respect of population . The numbers for the whole country were and

- for the county roughly one ninth of the total . M idlothian had 133 5 persons to the square mile as com 1 2 pared with 5 3 for Lanarkshi re , the most densely 11 S populated county , and for utherland , the most sparsely peopled of all .

o The curves n p . 55 Show the relative rate of increase in the two former counties during last cen tury . Between 186 1 and 188 1 there wa s for Midlothian an increase of PEOPLE— RACES POPULATION 5 5

while as between 188 1 and 19 0 1 the increase was only that is fewer were added to

the population in the latter period than in the former . We may note that while the proportion of females to

wa s 10 10 0 males over the whole country 57 to , in

18 6 1

Curv e s s h o wing th e c o m para t iv e gro w t h o f th e p o pula t i o n s o f Lanark s h ire and M idl o t h ian

112 10 0 Midlothian there were females to every males , the figures bei ng an d The census tables permit of further interesting com 8 parisons . Thus we are told that for all Scotlan d 3 per f . o cent the population lived in one roomed houses, in 5 6 MIDLOTHIAN Midloth ian for all Scotland there were persons

fo r to each house , for Midlothian all Scotland there were on the average rooms to each house , for Midlothian for all Scotland there were persons to each room , for Midlothian These figures indicate that in Midlothian the number o f persons in a household and the style o f liv 1ng are above th e average for the country . In the matter of resident foreigners Midlothian comes second to Lanarkshire but at a long interval . In all 1 0 1 : Scotland there were in 9 , foreigners 6 resided in Lanarkshire and 345 in Midlothian . O f

G . these the majority were Russians , Italians, and ermans

They have considerably increased in recent years . A long and varied list o f occupations is given for the

o f inhabitants the county . The professions were followed by over 80 0 0 men and 50 0 0 women ; and 50 0 0 men

A u were engaged in national and local service . gricult re 0 0 0 1 0 0 claimed 5 men and 5 women . Engineering,

- working in metals, building, paper making, and printing f were each very important a s trades o r men . As in all

distri urban districts , commerce , transport , provision and b u tion ff of food , drink, tobacco , etc . a ord work for large n umbers of the population ; and many men and women find employment in the making and selling of dress

wa s fabrics . Domestic service the chief occupation for

o f so women , whom were engaged , as compared with 3 0 0 0 men . Doubtless also many of the women returned as without specified occupation might be considered as busied with household duties . But the fact

5 8 MIDLOTHIAN

Si r Preston fi eld John Dick of , when Lord Provost of

Edinburgh , contracted to remove at his own expense the

la street refuse from the city, and by applying it to his nd ’ at the southern base of A rthur s Seat b e converted an u n profitable marsh into highly productive fields . John , Earl

S o f e x e ri of tai r, and Charles, Earl Hopetoun , were great p m menters, and under their management a regular syste of rotation in cropping was introduced ; new crops were

o f brought into the range field culture , such as turnips, carrots, and cabbages ; and the sowing of grass and clover became general . Later pioneers carried out draining on an extensive scale , practised deep culture with the new swing plough , applied lime and artificial manures to the land , adopted the thrashing mill , and otherwise improved their machinery and implements . Farm animals were more carefully bred , while the abundant supply of fodder made the wintering of stock and the production of beef and mutton profitable ventures . A griculturally, M idlothian may be divided into the coastal plains towards the north and the higher district further inland, rising into the hill country of the south . Th e coastal plains contain the land most valuable for arable purposes, the soil being in many places a deep rich loam , and the climate comparatively mild and dry . Except in the river valleys the southern hill region has poorer land and a moister, colder climate . The

- hill farms are accordingly mainly pastoral , some of the h ills being moorish and mossy , others covered with a thin clay . According to the latest O rdnance Survey revision the AGRICULTURE 5 9

total area of the county is acres . Land alone measures acres and of this acres are mountai n and heath lan d used for grazi n g ; are under permanent grass ; are arable ; and

a n d ~ la n ta tio n s 8 are woods p . Thus 5 3 per cent . of the r total area is used for ag icultural purposes , as compared

t : is wi h for the whole of Scotland 5 2 per cent . 6 utilised as woodland , compared with 4 for the whole country . Inasmuch a s different cr0 ps require di ff erent conditions for their successful growth , variations of altitude , slope and exposure , temperature, rainfall , and the geological nature of the rocks underlying the soil , all have a very di rect bearing on the kind and quality of the crops grown in

ff fo r di erent districts . Thus, example , in Midlothian the cultivation of wheat is usually confined to places under

0 0 sea - s10 e is 5 feet above level if the p to the north , and 0 0 under 7 feet if on a southern Slope , while the average ° summer temperature must be about 56 F . It is notice a is ble too that less wheat grown in the west , where the

rainfall is greater . Fertility o f soil requires to be m aintained by varying

the crop from year to year . The same crop naturally

extracts always the same soil constituen ts for food , and ff to prevent exhaustion of these , di erent crops are grown

is in succession . The rotation varied to suit conditions

m of soil and climate . I n the most highly far ed parts of “ ” Six - Midlothian , what is known as the course shift is

—Jth e — common order of rotation being Oats, Potatoes

"part Beans], Wheat , Turnips, Barley, Hay or Pasture . 6 0 MIDLOTHIAN

’ Suppose the cropping in any year is as follows in Six

fi elds

3 4 5 6 Wheat Turnips Barley

6 h e In the second year oats will be grown on No . and t other crops will be each shifted one place up the scal e.

’ Thus it is the seventh year before the same crop is grovvn

. so on the same field Even , th is is an exhausting use of

a nd the ground the land is consequently heavily manured , especially with the potato turn . Another rotation used where cattle are fed is the ” fi ve- 2 P course sh ift O ats , ( ) otatoes and Turnips,

(3)Barley or Wheat, (4)Hay, (5)Pasture ; and where the

is 1 land is a strong clay the rotation frequently ( )Oats,

2 6 G . ( )Beans , (3)Wheat , (4)Turnips , (5)Barley, ( ) rass In 19 0 9 the acreage under the chief crops was as follows Wheat 5 83 2 acres Barley 48 8 2

Potatoes 7 120 Turnip

Clover, etc . (in rotation)

or Wheat is usually sown after roots beans, the seed being put in either in the late autumn or in the early ’

. 6 spring The crop averages 4 bushels per acre , as com pared with 39 for all Scotland and 3 2 for England . AGRICULTURE 6 1

Barley occupies on the average about one - eleventh of the area under crop and gives a return o f from 42 up to as much as 6 0 bushels per acre ; the average being about

43}1 as compared with 3 5 for Scotland and 33 for England . Oats usually come after lea and are sown about the beginning o f March o n the low ground and some three

o n weeks later the higher levels, where it is the chief or

i 2J~ . s only grain crop The yield about 4 2 bushels ; the

for 1 figures Scotland and England are an d 4 5, oats being the o n e c ereal i n which the English average beats the Scottish .

Beans need deep tilth and plenty of lime i n the soil . They give a return of 3 2 to 36 bushels : but the area under i 1 1 s 0 6 . this crop very small , reaching in 9 9 only acres Fo r hay a n d grass the seeds are usually sown with the barley . Much of the grass n ear the city is cut green for feeding the cows of city dairymen , who buy the growing

0 cr p and usually take two or three cuts in a season .

Turnips occupy almost one - tenth of the cultivated

m a s area, being now very i portan t winter food for cattle 1 2 2 and sheep . Sixteen to 8 tons per acre for swedes and 2 to 3 tons for common turnips are considered good crops . The soil an d climate of M idlothian are favourable to

o f 0 0 0 the cultivation potatoes, of wh ich over 7 acres are

T is grown . his crop an expensive one as the land requires to be well wrought and heavily manured . Seven to 8 tons

i is in per acre s a fair return . Potato culture peculiarly te restin g in the county , for it was n ear Edinburgh that

Henry Prentice , a city pedlar , about the middle of the eighteenth century first grew potatoes as a field crop . 6 2 MIDLOTHIAN

“ Many growers now adopt the plan of bo xing the tubers selected for sets, in order that growth may be commenced before planting, as by this means an earlier crop and better prices may be obtained .

O ther crops grown are cabbage , vetches, mangolds, and carrots . In view of what has been said as to the skill of h the Lothian farmer it may be interesting to note, t at Midlothian in respect of yield per acre takes first place S among cottish counties for wheat , barley, and hay , third fo r fo r potatoes, fourth for turnips, and fifth oats . Cattle are bred on the higher farms in the county and a good deal of winter feeding for beef is carried on in all parts, the animals used being mostly strong shorthorn crosses from the south of Scotland, the north of England , and Ireland . Dairying is important, especially on the outskirts o f the city . The county has about f cattle o all kinds . Midloth ian is the fourteenth county of Scotland in order of number of sheep kept . O n the hills the small and hardy Blackfaced are practically the only breed , with some Cheviots on the lower farms ; while in the plains — half and three part bred Sheep , chiefly crosses of Border

Sh ro Leicester and Cheviot, are the favourite stock . p shires, Oxfords , and Dorsets are kept in small numbers

o f for crossing . The total number sheep is over

- Little horse breeding is carried on , but the stock of — — farm - horses mostly of the Clydesdale type is exception 0 0 ally good . O f these there are about 45 in the county . Pigs to the number of nearly are bred and fed AGRICULTURE 6 3

chiefly in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh . Poultry are kept at most of the farms . The average size of holding in the county is about 20 0 acres and most farms are held on a lease of nin eteen years with breaks at shorter intervals . There are in all 10 24 holdings for agricultural purposes an d of these 155 are owned by the occupiers . The rental varies from a few shillings per acre on hill farms to £ 5 or even more on more fertile lands and nearer the town . The buildings are generally substantial , modern , and well designed , and fences and drains are maintained in good order .

is Much of the best land occupied by nurseries, market d gardens , and orchar s, which have a ready sale for their produce in the city . The districts immediately to the east near Musselburgh and to the west about Corstorphine

1 0 and Ratho are Specially noted in this respect . In 9 9 ,

6 a s 4 3 acres were returned under carrots, onions, and f 2 1 other crops o similar character ; 443, acres as under small fruit ; and 6 5 acres as orchard . The parks and pleasure grounds surrounding the

a s numerous mansions are in many cases finely wooded , are also some of the h ill slopes, acres being the extent of woodland according to the latest returns ; that

o n e - is about nineteenth of the whole area .

M a f 12 I s e s a n d a e s . . nd u tri n u ctu r

While it cannot be said o f Midlothian that it is a great industrial district like the W est Riding of Yorksh ire or the lower ward of Lanarkshire , it can boast, nevertheless, 6 4 MIDLOTHIAN of a remarkable variety of trades and occupations carried f on within its bounds . Some o these are noticed separately A under griculture , Mines an d Minerals, Shipping, and

Fish eries . The rise and the growth of several of the industries are directly traceable to certain physical conditions . For

re instance , the geological structure of the district has s ulted o f in the presence of abundance good building stone,

o f . a useful clay , and of a very fine limestone Edinburgh itself is largely built of grey freestone quarried in the im

C ra i le ith mediate neighbourhood . g Quarry on the western outskirts supplied most of the material used in building the

N e w Town , and the durable character of the stone is evi deu ced by the state o f the houses after standing for nearly a century . Th e O ld Red Sandstone of Craigmillar and the white and blue stones from Hailes have been exten sivel y used in the southern and western suburbs . These quarries are now less resorted to , but others have been

Ho u ses G ilm erto n Opened near Bonnyrigg, East , , Penicuik, an d elsewhere . There are also several quarries for th e supply of paving material an d road metal at Blackford

Es ersto n C a tc u n e Fo un ta in side S Hill , p , , Middleton , , ilver burn , and Ratho . A n extensive clay field at Portobello is probably to be regarded as part of the 10 0 - feet raised beach deposits : and

h a s it long been drawn upon for the manufacture of bricks,

fi re - tiles , and pottery . Bricks and clay goods are made at A several of the collieries, including Whitehill , rniston ,

Niddrie Newbattle , and , where the material used is either a “ ” o r soft shale known as blaes the clay underlying the coal .

6 6 MIDLOTHIAN sources beyond the limits so defined appears to be lacking in some of the necessary ingredients or to possess others

less desirable , and so is less suitable for brewing purposes .

There are breweries also at Musselburgh and Dalkeith . Distilling and the rectification of spirits are extensively

carried on in the city . B rewing and distilling are dependent on supplies of

barley, and doubtless to begin with , these would be obtained m mainly fro the surrounding district . The rich agricultural neighbourhood was responsible also for the rise of the great milling and baking industries

h as of Edinburgh and Leith . Th e Water of Leith long be en noted for the mills which borrowed their motive

flo u r- power from the stream , and the great mills at Hay

market, Stockbridge, and Leith , though no longer depend

ing on the water wheel , are the lineal descendants of

- o n older fashioned establishments the same sites . In

recent years biscuit - making has become a very important

o f branch the Edinburgh baking trade .

AS o f S the metropolis the kingdom of cotland , the chief

place of residence of the sovereign , and the seat of the

supreme courts of law, Edinburgh was naturally the first

town to possess a printing press . O nly th irty years after C h e m a n Caxton introduced the art into England , Walter p and Andro M ylla r in 150 7 set up a press in the Cowgate ’ at the foot of Blackfriar s Wynd . In a patent granted to “ these burgesses by King James IV it is se t forth that they ’ h is at h is Maj esty s request, for pleasure , and the honour e and profit of h is realm and lieges, had tak n upon them

uff to bring hame ane print , with all st belonging thereto INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 6 7 and ex pert men to use the same for imprinting within A the realm of the books of the laws, cts of Parliament,

m a ss b ooks o rtu ns ch ronicles, and p after the use of the realm with additions and legends o f Scottish saints now gathered to be eked thereto and all other books that shall be necessary : and to sell the same for competent M ’ prices by h is ajesty s advice and discretion , their labour ” and expenses being considered . Th e first book known to have been printed by C h epm a n and M ylla r is a volume

so re of metrical tales and ballads . Printing, introduced , mained a struggling industry for nearly two hundred years “ ffi and even when Bibles, weel and su ciently bund in

f s o 1 . d paste or timmer were issued at the price £4. 3 4 .

u each , the Council had to enforce their p rchase by enact 0 0 ing that all persons worth ,65 should possess a copy or

o f 10 o f incur a penalty £ . B ut about the middle the eighteenth century the industry began to develop rapidly

Edinburgh became a noted literary centre , and soon gained for her printing a world - wide reputation wh ich Sh e has ever since retained . The names of Creech , Constable, N Ballantyne, Blackwood , Black, Chambers, and elson are kn own wherever English books are read ; and the W a v erley

N ov els Enc c lo a edi a B ri ta n n ic a Edi nbur b Re , the y p , the g ’ ’ v iew B la c kwood s M a a z i ne Clya m bers s ourn a l , g , and y have Spread the fame of Edinburgh for enterprise in printing

. S re and publishing tereotyping, a process wh ich has volu tio n ised the production of printed matter, was the

G e d. invention of an Edinburgh Silversmith , named John

as O ther branches of the industry , such engraving, litho

on graphing, and mapmaking are all carried with much — 5 2 68 MIDLOTHIAN

. S success ubsidiary industries have also arisen , and large numbers of work- people find employment in the making of printing mach inery, typefounding, the manufacture of k i n . , and bookbinding The most important of these dependent trades is — the manufacture o f paper one of the leading industries o f the county . The valleys of the Esk and the Water e t of Leith contain num rous paper mills, the oldes being

Va lle fi eld wa s that at y , Penicuik , which established in A ffi 1 0 A . 7 9 by nderson , the o cial printer to Queen nne

Esk G len c orse In the Valley there are mills at Penicuik, ,

Springfield, Polton , Lasswade , and Musselburgh ; in the t G Lei h Valley, at Balerno , Currie , Juniper reen , Colinton ,

' o f ra w m a te ria l and Slateford . Much the used in the

as process, such linen rags from Central Europe, esparto Af S grass from North rica, and wood pulp from candinavia, is landed at Leith . Apart from the industries above referred to or noted separately , Midlothian has no great staple of production ; e but , especially in the city , there is a v ry considerable

o f diversity arts and crafts, of which a few of the more interesting may be mentioned . 18 The making of rubber goods was introduced in 5 5, and in Spite o f keen foreign competition a large output is

o f - maintained water proofed garments , overshoes, and

: motor and bicycle tyres . The special skill of the Edin

- a n d burgh artist in gold and Silver work, electro plating, jewellery- making has long been widely known ; and, though little is now done in the actual making of watches 20 0 0 and clocks , about men are employed in various ways INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 6 9

in this particular branch of industry . The making and the repairing of scientific apparatus of all kinds, Specialised e m dical appliances, and Optical instrumen ts , are necessarily important in a town where education an d scien ti fi c re search are highly organised and which boasts of one o f the most famous medical schools in the world . Similarly, several firms are engaged in the manufacture and supply of chemicals . Textile manufactures in the county are not specially noteworthy ; but there are carpet factories at Bonnyrigg,

Dalkeith , and Roslin ; while hosiery and homespuns are

lri Resta . produced at g Stow is in the Tweed basin , and there we find a factory of the characteristi c woollen cloths — / twee 5 . the , misnamed tweeds There are numerous engi neeri ng works in Edinburgh

- and Leith , small iron foundries at Slateford , Millerhill ,

M - usselburgh , Loanhead , an d Peni cuik, and brass foundries

C a m ilt . G in Edinburgh unpowder is made at Rosli n , y

l er Kirkettle - M idc a d . ( ), and Rope works are carried on A t at Leith , Dalkeith , and Musselburgh . Musselburgh ,

f . also , nets are woven , and twine and wire manu actured Within the last few years the wire works have been exceptionally busy in supplying the demand for wires

o f used in the construction aeroplanes .

G lass bottles are made at Portobello and fi n e - cut glass o r crystal is produced in considerable quantity an d i n the

- best style by the well known works near Holyrood . G elatine and glue are manufactured at G orgie and

Cramond . Several tanneries carry on operations in the city and in Leith , where also there are large factories of 70 MIDLOTHIAN

- f chemical manures and cattle feeding stuf s . Leaf tobacco G is imported at Leith and ranton , where there are large

es bonded Stores, and is manufactured in several city factori . Two small mills at Juniper G reen are still engaged in th e ff G making of snu ; but the mill in which James illespie, G ’ l the founder of James illespie s Hospita , carried on his business in the second hal f of the eighteenth century , no longer exists . Salt works on a small scale continue in operation at Joppa Pans and Pinkie Pans between Portobello and M usselburgh , cargoes of salt rock being landed at Fisher row Harbour . Th e numerous golf courses i n the vicinity of the capital give employment to a goodly number of makers of golf clubs and rubber - cored balls as well as to the “ ” - green keepers and caddies . It h as been often remarked that one of the chief

Fe w industries of Edinburgh is education . cities are so well supplied with the means of instruction— admirably ff G equipped and sta ed Elementary, Higher rade, and

S ffi Secondary chools, various highly e cient Technical

I nstitutions, and an ancient University . Th e fame of these educational establishments attracts great numbers o f students from all parts of the world ; and the Univer sity of Edinburgh is possibly more cosmopolitan than any f Th e other in the varied nationality o its undergraduates . reputation of the city as a place o f learning and the exist

o f ence several great libraries , access to whose treasures is readily obtainable , together with its educational facilities, make it a favourite place of residence for wealthy an d INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 7 1

leisured people with intellectual tastes . Professional men A form a very considerable portion of the community . large part o f the legal and factorial busi ness o f the country

o f — is transacted in the city ; and the men law agents,

to solicitors , writers the Signet , advocates, and j udges are a numerous and influential body . Edinburgh h a s long

a s in been recognised a training centre for accountancy , surance , and banking ; and many important banks and insurance companies have here their headquarters .

1 . M s 3 i n e a n d M i n e ra l s . To the monks of Newbattle probably belongs the credit o f being the first discoverers and the first workers of minerals in Scotland . They are said to have worked coal beds near Prestonpans as early a s the th irteenth century . In a charter granted to them by Sieur de

u 12 10 12 1 Q inci , Earl of Wi nton , between and 9 , mention is made of a c oal heugh between Pinkie and

wa s - Prestonpans . This heugh probably a day level

s e driven into the seam from the outcrop near the a . In

1 26 o f 5 the monks formed , n ear the boundary the two ’ n o w counties, a harbour, known as Morison s Haven , for the export of the coal obtained from their mines . In the Lasswade district coal appears to have been worked at least a s early a s the beginning o f the Sixteenth century . But the total output must have remained small until well o n in the eighteenth century . Demand was small . In country districts, peat, and in towns, timber 7 2 MIDLOTHIAN were the regular fuels ; there were no great industries to call for large supplies ; and the means o f conveyance for coal were of the most elementary type— panniers on the backs o f horses travelling along the wretched roads a t ’ o f snail s pace . Moreover, the methods production were rude and clumsy, involving human labour under peculiarly

So wa s trying conditions . hard indeed the life of the

N e wb a ttl e Abb e y collier that an Ac t of the Scots Parliament had to be 16 0 6 passed in , which practically enslaved the workers in ” “ ~ mines as necessary servants, who, if they left their masters, might be proceeded against as thieves for stealing T themselves and their services . hey became a hereditary caste or class apart ; for if the sons o r daughters o f colliers once engaged in the work they thereupon became serfs

7 4 MIDLOTHIAN

group . In Midlothian th is group is much more important than the Coal Measures of later formation , which like corresponding strata elsewhere are named the Lower a -n d

Middle Coal M easures . The Midlothian Coalfield lies in a basin bounded on the west by a great fault which runs in a N . N . E . direction parallel with and o n the eastern side of the Pentland

- Hills . O n the east the coal bearing strata rise in an anticlinal fold about Roman Camp Hill and dip again into the basin whi ch forms the East Lothian Coalfield . Th e M idlothian basin or trough appears to have been shaped by pressure acting from the west, for the strata near the Pentland fault are inclined at a very steep angle , which in some places even goes beyond the perpendicular so that the rock positions are reversed : whereas in th e east of the basin the slope is much more gentle . In the middle part of the basin the seams are flat .

O n - the north , the coal bearing strata pass under the

Forth to re- appear in the Fife c oa lfi eld ; and they extend from the coast southwards into the heart of the county R o f beyond osewell , a distance about nine miles . The strata are thickest near N iddrie in the north - west part o f

. At the basin , and thin out towards the south and east the most fully developed position , the Edge Coal group is fully 10 0 0 feet thick and contains 26 seams of coal of more than one foot thickness . O n the western margin of the basin they may be followed from the sea at

D uddin sto n Niddrie Joppa by Wester g , , Drum , and

G ilmerton to Loanhead and D ryden . They are called “ edge ” coals locally because the seams present their MINES AND MINERALS 7 5 edges upwards instead of lying in their original “ flat or horizontal position . The eastern margi n is to be

W a ll fo rd N ewto n ra n e found at y , Carberry , Cowden , g g , G and orebridge ; and there, as has been noted , the dip is at a much smaller angle , while in the intervening region the seams gradually reach the horizontal at a great depth ,

t A N iddrie 2 6 o 0 0 . t from 7 5 3 5 feet , coal is raised from — — a greater depth 26 2 3 feet vertical than anywhere else in Scotland . The lie of the strata and the depth to which the seams have to be followed make the winning o f the Edge

ffi A S coal a di cult and expensive process . compared with “ ” “ ” to a pit sunk to flat seams, on e sunk edge coals opens up only a small area of workable coal ; and it is necessary therefore to drive at great expense cross- cut mines th rough the interveni ng Strata to connect the various seams and permit of the coal being drawn up the m same shaft to the surface . So e of the Shafts are sunk in the direction of the dip and the coal is hauled to the “ ” surface o n rails laid on the pavement o r rock under lying the coal . O n account of the cost, only the best and thickest seams are worked at present . What have been called the Lower and M iddle Coal Measures lie above the Edge Coal group in strati graphical — 0 0 order . O f these Measures , the M iddle about 5 feet thick— occupies an area of less than a square mile near the middle of the district and contains no workable coal seams . The Lower also lies in the middle of the basin and contains several useful seams grouped in two divisions with 20 0 feet o f barren Strata separating them . 7 6 MIDLOTHIAN

In recent years the Midlothian Coalfield h as been 1 0 considerably developed . In 9 3 the output of coal in the county amounted to tons : in 19 0 9 tons were produced , an increase of close upon a million

h a s o f tons . This increase taken place in Spite the fact that the value of some of the coals h a s fallen very much o n account chiefly of newer methods of gas production . G a s coal was at one time chiefly used for that purpose and brought a high price ; but now owing to the intro

of t duction incandescent mantles, gas of a lower illumina ive power satisfies the demand and ordinary coal is used . G a s coal was n icknamed Cannel or Candle coal fro m the high illuminative power of the gas it produced in u “ b rning, and Parrot coal because of the chattering noise it makes in the fire . In the Report o f the Royal Commission on Coal Supplies ( 19 0 5)it is estimated that the quantity of available — coal in the Lothian C oa lfi eld including Haddingtonshire — and Peeblessh ire may be put at tons, of which tons may be considered as belonging

- to the Midlothian field . If to this be added one third of the supply lying beneath the Forth , which might be

is reached from the southern shore , it calculated that the present output could be maintained for nearly two thousand years .

The principal collieries are at O live Bank , New

N iddrie W oolm et Craighall , , and ; Whitehill and Polton ;

A Vo rie Loanhead and Roslin ; Penicuik ; rniston , g , and

W a llfo rd Newbattle ; Carberry and y . A t Niddrie , Loanhead , and Penicuik, blackband and MINES AND MINERALS 77 c la b a n d y ironstone are worked along with the coal , and the mineral is sent to Shotts to be smelted . The total output of i ronstone in 19 0 3 wa s tons ; in 19 0 9

tons . The neighbouring county of West Lothian wa s the scene in 18 5 1 o f the first development of the pa ra fli n o il i ndustry, when James Young erected retorts an d refineries at Bathgate to obtain oil from the f amous To rba n e h ill

B o h ea d o il Mineral or g coal , wh ich was so rich in that

10 5 . its price rose to £4. a ton before it was exhausted . Shale was first used for the distillation o f o il at Broxburn in 18 59 and now it is the only mineral employed for that purpose . The shale is prod uced in

a t Midlothian Cobbinshaw , round about West Calder,

. 1 0 and at Pumpherston ; formerly also at Straiton In 9 9 ,

- tons o f o ilshale were raised . Retorting works and refineries are in operation at A Pumpherston , Oakbank , and ddiewell . In the process of extracting the oil the shale is first broken and distilled in retorts at a temperature of from 6 ° 8 ° 0 0 to 0 0 F . This distillation yields crude oil and ammonia water . The crude oil is refined by further

e a nd a n d distillations , by ch mical treatment, by cooling

e . pr ssing From it are obtained naphtha, various grades

o f ffi . burning and lubricating oils, and solid para n or wax

The wax is made into candles . From the ammonia

wa s off water, which at first merely allowed to run as

o f waste , there is now got a substance considerable commercial value— sulphate of ammonia— which is largely

used as an arti ficial manure . 7 8 MIDLOTHIAN

14 . Fi s h e ri e s . Not the least of the advantages which we owe to our insular position off the coast of Europe is our proximity to the feeding grounds of enormous numbers of edi ble

fish which live in the Shallow waters around these islands .

Fishing has always been a leading industry of Scotland ,

fi sh A n and has been a Staple of export for centuries .

N e w h av e n indication of the importance of the industry is given in the statement that the average annual value for the 2 1 years ending in 19 0 8 o f all the fish landed at Scottish ports was while the number of persons employed in connection with the various branches o f the industry was

The adaptation o f the steam - engi ne to sea - going vessels added greatly to the facilities for capturing fish and FIS HERIES 7 9 to the ease a n d rapidity with which they can be brought

- to market . While therefore the picturesque two masted yawl with its brown lug- sails and its two - m ile - long lines o f b ooks baited with m ussels still goes out from Newhaven — o r Fisherrow to fish in the waters of the Firth preserved to the line fishermen since 18 8 7— the bulk of the fi sh is now landed at G ranton or Leith from trawlers, which either work on the grounds extending from 20 to 6 0 miles E . S . E . and E . N . E . of the May Island or bring ’ thei r week s catch from the more distant groun ds o f the

o r o ff Buchan Deeps , the Fair Isle , or around the O rkney and Shetland Islands .

- fish in h a s Li ne g, however , the advan tage over trawling that it can be used where the sea- bottom is rough and

A n - fi s h in h a s rocky . interesting development of li ne g taken place in recent years, notably on the East Coast , in that Steam - vessels have been i ntroduced ; and the number 8 h a s 8 18 1 0 . of these increased from 3 in 9 9 , to 33 7 in 9

S - m team drifters, too , are being more and ore employed i n

- fi sh in o f a il- i l net g ; and the number s boats s steadi y declining . ' L In the eith district, wh ich includes all creeks from

m Cove in Berwickshire to Dysart and We yss in Fife, the number and values of the vessels e m ployed in 19 0 8 to gether with the nu m ber of men engaged were a s follows

V a u e N O o f l . V e s s el s Fi s h erm en — Sail bo ats 14 6 1 Steam - drifters 9 0 Stea m - line bo ats Steam - trawlers 5 49

To tals 2 10 0 8 0 MIDLOTHIAN The principal fish caught by line and trawl are such as feed o n o r near the sea - botto m in comparatively shallow

dem ersa l t waters . They are classed as to dis inguish them

ela i from fish living near the surface and known as p g c .

The former class is subdivided into fla t- fis h such as h flo u n de rs alibut, turbot, brill , soles, plaice , , dabs, lemo n

: - fi sh soles, skates , and rays and round such as cod , haddock, whiting , hake , ling, gurnard , red mullet, bass; m and dory . O f pelagic fish the chief are herring, ackerel , pilchards, sprats , and sparlings ; and of these by far the

is most important in Scotland the herring, which is regarded

- b as the stand y of the Scots fisherman . Herrings are caught by drift - nets mainly : but the Newhaven fishermen

use in the upper reaches of the Fi rth the seine net, which

- h is shot in a semi circle , then has its ends drawn toget er, and thus encloses its prey ; whereas in the drift- net the herrings are held in the meshes by their gills . In 19 0 8 the quantities and values o f fish landed at Leith and adjacent ports were °

2 Herrings cwts . value S S prats , parling s and Mackerel Round Fish Flat Fish Other Fish 13 Total

— - fiSh In addition Shell oysters, mussels, clams, lobsters, — 6 2 crabs, etc . were landed to the value of "I5 5, making the aggregate value o f the fish of all kinds caught during the year

FISHERIES 8 3

curing, making barrels , baskets , and boxes, hawking and

l fi sh so is Se ling and forth . It calculated that in the Leith district these subsidiary industries give employ m ent to over 3 0 0 0 people in addition to the 2 10 0 men and boys actually engaged in fishing . Allmatters relating to the fishing industry in Scotland are under the care of the Fishery Board , whose duties include the policing o f the home waters to prevent

o f illegal trawling and other abuses, the administration the laws made from time to time to regulate the industry , the registration of the boats engaged , the branding of cured herring , the granting of loans to fishermen , the carrying o u t o f scientific investigation of fishery problems , and the collection and collation of Statistics .

1 h n 5 . S i p p i g a n d Trad e .

The position o f the Firth of Forth in relation to the Continent has made its shores the natural Starting places for communication with the lands beyond the North Sea ; and it is probable that harbours have existed at the ’ mouths of M idlo th ia n s three rivers from the earliest A times . Cramon d , at the mouth of the lmond , was important in the days of the Romans : the harbour of

o r I n ve rlet a s wa s wa s Leith , , it once called , originally merely the channel of the Water of Leith worn o u t o f the broad expanse of Leith Sands ; an d the oldest

Eskm u th e name for Musselburgh , , recalls the fact that , though the modern harbour o f Fisherrow is half a mile

6— 2 8 4 MIDLOTHIAN

to the west , the port in earlier times was simply the mouth of the Esk . The great development of trade in recent times necessitated a like development in the facilities for dealing with the more numerous and larger ships and the vastly

ffi o ld increased tra c . The creeks either decayed in

or importance were obliged to extend their accommodation .

Cramond has no longer any pretensions as a port, and the

L e it h P i e rs overseas trade of Musselburgh has wellnigh reached the a s vanishing point . Leith , on the other hand , the gateway

h a s of the metropolis , grown into a first rate seaport , of all Scottish ports second only to G lasgow ; and two G and a quarter miles to the west , ranton Harbour was constructed about the middle of last century with the special purpose of meeting modern requirements in loading and discharging cargo at all states of the tide . S HIPPING AND TRADE 8 5 The first attempt to improve the harbour of Leith was the construction of a pier in 1544 by the English

wa s general , the Earl of Hertford , who then holding the port : but he destroyed the pier when he left for England . Various other quays and piers were constructed in the

Seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, but the bar at the river mouth wa s still frequently impassable . Between 18 0 0 and 18 17 wet and graving docks were made ; while in 18 24 the east pier wa s extended and the west pier and breakwater built . Since then the Victoria Dock, the A lbert Dock, the Edinburgh Dock, and the Imperial

Dock have been added . The total area of the harbour is 1 0 — 0 0 0 about 0 acres . The entrance channel 3 feet long — and 23 1 feet wide between the piers h a s a depth of l 10 feet o ver the bar at owwater of spring tides . The channel is not used for ships discharging cargo but is available for landing passengers . There are now eight dry

o f docks for the overhauling ships . The North B ritish and Caledonia n Railways have sidings on the quays ; and

- railway trucks can be run alongside all th e Ship berths .

The docks are fully equipped with storage sheds, steam ,

- electric, and hydraulic cranes, hydraulic coal hoists, capstans, grain elevators, and other appliances, and there f are large yards for the stacking o timber . A considerable coasting trade is carried on with other

British ports ; and foreign trade is chiefly with Russia, G Sweden , Norway, Denmark , ermany, the Netherlands, A Belgium , France , Spain , and the United States of merica . The following British Possessions are also represented

A . Cyprus, India, ustralia, and Canada Lines of steamers 8 6 MIDLOTHIAN

make regular passages to Newcastle , Hull , and London ; A to Dundee, berdeen , O rkney, and Shetland ; and to continental ports on the North Sea and the Baltic . In summer, excursion steamers carry numerous passengers on A S E . pleasure trips to berdour, tirling, lie , and other resorts

1 0 2 18 of In 9 9 , vessels aggregate tonnage were registered as belonging to the port : while during the same year 220 sailing vessels and 246 9 Steamers entered and cleared i n coastwise trade : 10 4 sailing and

18 24 Steam - vessels entered and 117 sailing and 17 68 steam cleared for foreign countries and B ritish possess ions . Altogether 639 8 vessels with an aggregate of tons entered an d cleared in the year mentioned .

Imports were mainly of grain , hemp , provisions , esparto grass, fibre , ores, timber, artificial manures, wines,

' f ru it a n d o f 1 0 sugar, and ; the value these in 9 9 amounted to Exports were valued at including foreign and colonial goods transhipped to the value of £ 1 and the chief articles of export were fi re iron , hardware , coal , canvas , machinery , chemicals, bricks, manures, herrings, spirits and ales . S hipbuilding has long been carried on . The first line of — — battleship the Fury ever built in Scotlan d was launched

- . 1 0 here In 9 9 , eight steel steam vessels were launched of

o f a gross tonnage 45 59 tons .

Stretc h of The o water between the town and the island

In c h keith of is known as Leith Roads, and in easterly gales it is frequently crowded with craft , which find there

I n c h keith good anchorage . is strongly fortified as a 18 8 defence to the harbour , which previous to 7 was SHI P PING AND TRAD E 8 7 guarded by a Martello tower built on the Black Rocks

c east of the entran e at the time of the Napoleonic wars, when it is said the French emperor had in contemplation an attac k on Edinburgh by a fleet which wa s to sail up the Water of Leith l Formerly the Corporation of Edin burgh claimed property in the harbour an d exercised jurisdiction over it . This authority originated in a grant m ade by Ki ng Robert “ the Bruce in 13 29 of ane right of the harbour and mills of Leith , with their appurtenances to the city of Edinburgh to have and to hold in all time coming for the yearly ” payment of 52 merks "about £2 8 0 in m odern m o n e v n 1 value] . A A c t passed in 8 3 8 vested the management in the Dock Commissioners, who are elected by various public bodies in Edinburgh and Leith . From early times the Association of Mariners and Shipmasters at the port was accustomed to receive from all vessels belonging to it and fro m Scottish vessels of “ su m other ports visiting it , a of mone y called prime ” “ gilt which wa s applied to aid poor old i nfirm an d weak 3 , is a s mariners . The association known Trinity House ; “ ” 18 6 2 and , although prime gilt was abolished in , the investments of the House enable the charity still to be

u is carried on . Trinity Ho se also the authority for the licensing of Leith pilots . The harbour h a s frequently been the landing place of

. m h is royalty Ja es I , the poet king, brought to Leith

Queen , Jane Beaufort , whose beauty he sang in the

Ki n i s ua i r so n g Q . His James II , the boy king, sailed from Leith to Stirling after his abduction fro m Edinburgh 8 8 MIDLOTHIAN

a i Castle . The consorts of James II , James III , J and James VI all disembarked here o n their a rr

. A Scotland fter her brief, bright reign in , Fra was at Leith that

Th e lovely Mary once again

Set o h er fo t upon native plain , Kneeled o n the pier with m odest grace r And turned to Heaven h e beauteous face .

- 1 The ill fated Darien Expedition , with its five 120 0 0 0 i containing men and 3 gentlemen , and bea — cargo of Scots woollen manufactures heavy pl ; and blue bonnets included— to trade to the n atives 16 8 Spanish Main , sailed from Leith in 9 . In Captain G reen and two of the crew of the En gli: lVorcester were hanged o n Leith Sands for alleged — committed on the high seas in 17 0 3 evidence thi bitter feeling then prevalent against Englishmen . Fort was commenced in 17 79 as a battery of nin set up to defend the harbour against the threatened

- A the Scots merican privateer, Paul Jones, who year scared the inhabitants o f the Forth towns by a p

two of i n the Firth with h is vessels . The guns w needed , a westerly gale having opportunely aris driven the privateersmen out to sea . In later ti was G port visited by eorge IV , Queen Victoria, and A lexandra . Up till nearly the middle o f the nineteenth there was no deep sea harbour in the Firth of For this want moved the Duke of Buccleuch , superior G wh i place , to develop the harbour of ranton ,

9 0 MIDLOTHIAN

to the port . The total value of the imports amounted e to of exports , being produce of the Unit d

Kingdom , and exports, produce of foreign

re - : countries and British possessions exported, £37 7 9 a total value of Before the building of the Forth B ridge the ferry from G ranton to Burntisland was an important - part o f

- the North B ritish Railway trunk line to the north , and an arrangement was in use by which loaded trucks were o n h shipped large steamers, conveyed across the Firt and

o n run ashore the other side, the loading, unloading, and reloading of goods being thus avoided .

16 . H istory .

Properly to write the h istory o f Midlothian it would be necessary to give in some detail the main events of Scottish history ; fo r the county town has been long recognised as the metropolis o f Scotland ; and many of the incidents which have marked the Stages of national progress have been enacted within the walls of the grey o ld city . Here we can deal only with events which may be regarded as connected rather with the county proper . The region of the Lothians— not however under that — or any other name fi rst emerges in history when Tacitus ’

1 A D . describes Agricola s campaigns (8 0 and 8 . ) in the lands to the south of the Bodo tria or Forth . It was Agricola ’ s idea that here should be the terminus of the HISTORY 9 1

h is Roman Empire , and hence line of forts across the narrow neck between the Forth and the Clyde to curb ’ the wild Caledonians of the north . With his soldier s

h e s e e o f 1 E h C s tl e a s i t wa s e f o e t 57 3 di n burg a , b r i g

eye he would perceive the strategical value of the Castle O tta den i l l Rock, upon which the most like y had a ready — I ts , built a fort . name in British perhaps then certainly “ — dh A n edh . later wa s M yn e g , the hill of the plain 9 2 MIDLOTHIAN

’ — Subsequent corruption of this to Maiden s Castle in the

Latin of the time c a strum pa ella rum - originated the tradi

’ o f tion that the Rock was the home the royal princesses . A fter the English settlement , Lothian became in the sixth cent u ry merged in the Anglian kingdom o f Bernicia and

then in Northumbria . Edwin of Northumbria gave his — ’ name to the fortress o n the Rock Edwin s burgh . Th e G aelic Dunedin may be a translation o f the English “ n designation or it may mean the fort o the Slope . It would be impossible to give in brief compass a sati s factory account o f the fortunes o f the Lothians during the

— o f S centuries when the four kingdoms the cots, the Picts, — Strathclyde , Northumbria were Struggling for supremacy .

Th e 10 18 end came in , the year in which Malcolm II, A king of lban , defeated the Northumbrians at the Battle of

so h is Carham and made good title to the Lothians, since which time the district has remained a recognised part of f the kingdom o Scotland . 1 0 In 3 3 , during the War of Independence , a small 8 0 0 0 force of Scots, under Sir Simon Fraser and John

Comyn , defeated near Roslin English under Sir S Sir John de egrave and Ralph de Manton , who by

order of Edward I were devastating the country . The English were in three divisions and the Scots were fortunate in being able to deal with each division sepa

Fo rdu n ra tely . the chronicler tells quaintly how after the Scots had beaten the first division and were sharing the Spoil a second column appeared in battle array ; the

Scots on seeing it, slaughtered their prisoners and armed

n their own vassals with the Spoils of the slain ; the ,

9 4 MIDLOTHIAN

Bo ro u h m u i r O n the g to the south of Edinburgh , Sir A now included within the city bounds, lexander Ramsay in 1336 came upon a body o f English troops

G u under y, Count of Namur, on their way to join the army of Edward III, then encamped at Perth in support of Edward Balliol the usurper . Ramsay drove the English into the town and compelled them to surrender . The alliance between France and Scotland culmi n a ted in 13 8 5 in a combined raid into England commanded ir by S John de Vienne and the Earl of Douglas . In revenge King Richard II invaded Scotland and devastated

a s the country as far north Edinburgh . Th ere he spent ’ five days destroying the town with the church of St G iles A f and the bbey of Holyrood, but ailed to capture the castle . The Bo rou gh m u ir was also the scene of the mustering o f the army which James I V led into England to the

1 1 . S disastrous defeat at Flodden in 5 3 The Bore tone ,

- ff is n ow on which his flag Sta was fixed, built into the

o f wall in front Morningside Parish Church , not far from its original Site . In pursuance o f his policy of breaking up the Scoto French alliance and uniting Scotland to England by the marriage of Prince Edward and Queen Mary , Henry VIII in 1544 sent an army into Scotland to force the Scots h i ” into compliance with s wishes a rough wooing .

o f Under the Earl Hertford this force landed at Leith , A burned Edinburgh , wrecked Holyrood bbey , dismantled the castles of Craigmillar and Roslin , and laid waste the surrounding district . Th e B o re S to n e 9 6 MIDLOTHIAN

’ A VI II S 1 was fter Henry death in 547 , his policy

f o f S continued by Hert ord , now Duke omerset , who again led an English army into Scotland . The Regent A rran hastily gathered the Scottish forces and took up his position on the ridge overlooking Musselburgh . S omerset was supported by an English fleet , which lay

M u s s e lburg h Bri dg e s off the mouth of the Esk ; but as the Scots were strongly posted he in turn stationed his army on the rising ground ,

Fa ls ide to M w Brae , the east of usselburgh , and aited the Th attack of the Scots . e latter unwisely left their a d va n ta eou s Esk g position and , filing over the by the old

o f ff bridge , climbed the ridge Inveresk , su ering meanwhile

fl Th e from the galling fire of the English eet . main

M ary Q uee n o f S c o ts HISTORY 9 9

h i so v o u t . s supplies, and star ing them He posted troops between Edinburgh and Leith both to prevent Cromwell ’ s getting provisions by sea and to keep him from taking

wa s Edinburgh . Cromwell compelled to encamp outside

o n G a la c h la w off - the city , an Shoot of the Braid Hills, h i ff r where s men su ered much f om sickness . When he L attempted to march to Queensferry , eslie intercepted

o n 2 th o f A 16 0 him, and the 7 ugust 5 an artillery duel G w took place near ogar, i n a field which came to be kno n

a s . L afterwards the Flashes Un able to dislodge eslie ,

Cromwell withdrew first to the Braids, then to Mussel

h is m o u burgh , where troops enca ped the links and used

Inveresk church as a barracks, and finally to Dunbar . ’ — There Leslie s fatal blunder a repetition of that which — gave the English the vi ctory at Pinkie led to the ig n o “ ” minious Dunbar Drove . 16 66 In the county was once more involved in strife . In the attempt o f Charles II to force episcopacy upon an

o f its unwilling people, the severity legislation and harsh enforcement by the military led to reprisals by Covenanters

- o f in the south west Scotland . Emboldened by some small 20 0 0 m successes, of them marched fro Lanark towards Edinburgh : but they met with so little encouragement

f r m that at Colinton they turned o ho e . Striking along the foot o f the Pentlands by Dreghorn Castle and Swan h G ston to the B iggar Road , t ey marched to Rullion reen , where they halted . G eneral Dalziel had been in close

o f pursuit ; and, hearing the altered route , he led his troopers across Currie Brig and by the o ld drove road

up the Kirk Loan and through the Maiden Cleuch , and

102 MIDLOTHIAN

’ o f A D u ddin sto n slope rthur s Seat, near g , and for their depredations gained an unenviable reputation among the A peaceful inhabitants of the neigh bourhood . fter a month

Spent in Edinburgh , disappointed with the lack of support obtained from the Lowlands of Scotland , Charles set out on his futile march into England .

E dinburg h C a s tl e

of From the scene his final defeat at Culloden , his conqueror, the Duke of Cumberland , brought back to Edinburgh a number o f the captured standards and had ’ them publicly burned at the Cross , the Prince s own by the common hangman and the thirteen others by as many sweeps . ANTIQUITIES 103

1 . A 7 nti q u iti e s .

Archaeologists divide the prehistoric period of man ’ s

A o f occupation of a region into the ges Stone , B ronze , and I ron according to the material of which h is weapons o f war and the chase or h is implements of industry were

A e manufactured . The Stone g is subdivided into the

o r A e o r Palaeolithic O ld Stone g , and the Neolithic

New Stone Age . In th e former the weapons were rudely chipped into shape ; in the latter they were smooth , polished , an d better adapted to the end in view . O f Palaeolithic times no remai ns seem to exist i n Scot land ; and not many even of the Neolithic Age have been found in Midlothian ; but stone weapons and implements

- such as discs, flint flakes , arrow heads, scrapers , hammers , and axes have been un earthed at various times in di ff erent

o f parts the county , notably Corstorphine , the slopes of ’ A D u ddin sto n rthur s Seat, g Loch , Leith , Ratho, East

Eskh ill Calder, Pentland , Roslin , Penicuik, , Carlops, and

Ba vela w Moor . If we try to picture the face o f the county in those

- o ff a s W far days , we must imagi ne it largely covered ith marshland and forest, out of which rose the slopes and summits of the hills . O f the ancient Caledonian Forest a relic o f some hundred acres Still remains in the park of Dalkeith Palace : at one time a s the Forest of Drum selch— it reached to the outskirts o f Edinburgh and was for many generations a favourite hunting ground of the

Scottish kings . When the forest and marsh extended far W e ap o n s o f th e S t o ne and Bro nze Age s

’ a n d 2 a re P a la eolith i c a n d N eolzt/z z e 1 ; 3 , 4 5 ; 6 i s a B ron z e Ag e pa lsta ve

106 MIDLOTHIAN of the natives and fo r folding their cattle during an ih va s io n by a hostile tribe . The earthen ramparts were likely the bases into wh ich a palisade of wooden stakes wa s driven . In the parish of Heriot there appear to have

o f o r been several these camps, consisting usually of th ree more encircling walls and ditches, wi th marks of gate

a s a t M idh ill ways, Borthwick Hall Hillhead and at head .

O n Heriot- town Hillhead is a circle of high stones

0 8 0 o n 7 or feet in diameter, and Dewar Hill is one large “ ’ ” stone, known as Lot s Wife . These and similar monu mental erections may have been connected with tribal religious ceremonies . Tumuli near M o rton h a llmay represent an early fort ; and this is rendered more probable by the occurrence in their neighbourhood of a standing stone known as the S o r C a i Kel tane y Stane , a whinstone block 9 feet above ground and 4 feet below, pointing edgewise north and

o f South . It is said to mark the site a battle and is some S times identified with the Camus tone, which according

C om iston to tradition gave the name to the estate of , on which it Stands . Near it were found stone cists contain ing skeletons . Such cists exhibit one primitive method of disposi ng of the dead ; another is exemplified in the fi n d

o f 18 ing during the summer 9 9 , on the Braid Hills near

of A . by , two cinerary urns now in the ntiquarian Museum

They are made of burnt clay in a flo wer- pot shape and

- be are ornamented with a herring bone pattern . They long to the Bronze Age ; and similar urns have been found ’ Boro u h m u irh ea d M u rra fi eld A at Musselburgh , g , y , rthur s ANTIQUITIES 107 l S G reen . Some years ago a regu ar eat , and Juniper cemetery o f this type was discovered in a mound at

o f . Magdalen Bridge , east Joppa The dead were first , cremated , then the ashes were gathered into the urn

16 c e s i n e g t) e e o . U rn f o und a t M a g dal n Brid g , J ppa ( in h h i h

tla n d A n /i n a r. o S c o "F ra u S a c . q f ] which was deposited in a Specially prepared grave and

protected with stone Slabs . These discoveries and the finding o f bronze swords and axes on Arthur ’ s Seat and of a small armoury of 108 MIDLOTHIAN

o n G swords the Site of rosvenor Place , Edinburgh , point to the inference that the district was even in those dim ages a place of some importance , where probably the

o f wa s o n manufacture weapons of bronze carried . Although the Roman hold upon North Britain was much more precarious than over the southern part o f the

o f o f island , traces their occupation the district are by no means scanty . To judge by the numerous relics found o at Cramond and Inveresk , both were imp rtant Roman

Stations . The former seems to have been linked up by A ’ a series of forts with ntonine s Wall , which ended on the shores of the Forth at C a rriden ; and Inveresk appears to have been the objective o f the main Roman road from ’ the south , which , leaving Hadrian s Wall near Corbridge o n the Tyne , passed north over the Cheviots and by the great camp at Newstead near Melrose, crossed the Tweed , traversed Lauderdale and climbed over Soutra Hill into

o f Lothian . Parts this road were known later as Dere

o f Street and the Royal Road . There is evidence also a branch road Skirting the east end o f the Pentlands and passing by Bowb ridge and F a irm ile h ea d to Cramond .

Numerous coins , medals, inscriptions, altars, fragments

o f of pavement , have been recovered in the vicinity the ’ A o n lmond mouth ; and the Hunter s Craig, a rock to

of the west, the figure a Roman eagle is cut in bold relief. Inveresk is understood to have been not only a military

loni a r Station but also a c o o civil settlement . The Prae to riu m probably stood on the site of the modern church , and a road led across the Esk to the harbour near

110 MIDLOTHIAN

by a rampart . It is now covered with trees . Similar forts are to be found at M u irh ou se and Craigend in Stow parish . ’ En terkin s Yett in the parish of Currie was the scene o f a traditional fierce encounter between the natives and

En te rkin the Norse invaders led by . Constantine , another V iking leader, is said to be commemorated by the Cat S tane, a solitary monumental stone on th e peninsula A G between the lmond and ogar burn , three and a half miles from Corstorphine . Sculptured stones of Celtic type have been found at S Lasswade and at two places in Edinburgh , Princes treet

n G ardens and Young Street . A ornament of twisted gold wire found in Holyrood Park is one o f many indications that a love for personal decoration wa s not unknown among our Celtic predecessors .

18 A h e e— a l e a a l rc it ctu r ( ) Ecc si stic .

Special characteristics of national architecture depend o n the peculiar needs and customs of the people, the

of of climate the region , and the nature the materials available ; and this is true not only o f the utilitarian

o f side the art but still more of the decorative side, which is the invariable complement of the other ; for decoration will be governed and guided by the natural features and objects in the midst of wh ich a people

v s li es and by the aesthetic instinct thereby produced .

- is ffi Inter communi cation , when it su ciently developed , ARCHITECTURE— ECCLES IASTICAL 111 is apt to modi fy local ideas and tends to eliminate special features . In o u r country the earliest kin d of building c o n stru c tion was the erection of the rude stone monuments noticed above ; but , when we speak of architecture , we usually

m refer to so ething more advanced , an d we may accord in gly sa y that the earliest Style of architecture of whi ch examples still exist in our country wa s the Saxon — cha ra c terise d m its by si plicity, mason ry coarsely dressed , and “ - the corner stones placed alternately long and short .

To N m th is succeeded the orman , whose chief arks are

- round headed open ings, flat buttresses, and rich carving o n doorways and archways .

The round - headed opening developed into the pointed f arch which is the outstanding characteristic o the G othic . This style is usually subdivided into (a )First Pointed o r Early English ; (12)Second Pointed or Decorated ; and (c )

Third Pointed or Perpendicular . The Renaissance led to imitation o f classical models in architecture as in other branches of knowledge , and the G — dis reek pillared styles Doric , Ionic , and Corinthian , tin gu is h ed chiefly by the treatment of the capitals or heads — of the columns exerted considerable influence on o u r national art . In Elizabethan architecture , which is a G form of Renaissance, Classic and othic features are combined .

A i m Modern rchitecture s ai nly imitative . Churches

o f G are usually built i n some modification othic , while for civic buildi ngs the Renaissance style is most frequently adopted . 112 MIDLOTHIAN

The earliest forms o f ecclesiastical architecture were

the rude cells of the Celtic missionaries, one of which is believed to have been the first predecessor o f the Church

St . of Cuth bert, Edinburgh These humble edifices were succeeded by more pretentious buildings raised under the

pious influence of Queen Margaret . The old chapel,

’ S t M argare t s C h ap e l

named after her , which stands on the summit of the R Castle ock , is the oldest ecclesiastical building in the ’ county : its date is not later than the time of Margaret s

16 10 sons . It is but a small room 5 feet by } feet within wa s the nave . It restored , with the addition of stained

18 . glass windows, in 53

ARCHITECTURE— ECCLES IASTICAL 115

A monks of the order of St ugustine , whose mills gave — — name to a district of the city C a n o n m ills an d who under royal gran t erected a burgh of barony between the

— C a n o n a te city gates and the abbey g , which remained a separate burgh un til quite recent times . The abbey had also the privilege of sanctuary ; and before imprisonmen t

wa s for debt abolished , its prec incts were much resorted

to by debtors . The numerous c hurches erected in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries were built i n the styles then prevail G ing, the Norman and the First Pointed othic . Though

ff o f re they have su ered severely at the hands invader, m former, and restorer, their number and agnificence give

evidence of the prosperity of the coun try i n those days . But the stormy times of the Wars of In dependence su c

c e eded , when Scotsmen were more familiar with the clash “ o f arms than the sound of hammer and when the fai r abbayes ” suff ered frequent damage from the invading

armies . Thus the fourteenth century is devoid of ex

amples o f church arc hitecture . When i n the fifteenth century church building was revived it wa s i n a country

a n d a s impoverished by the long wars, the edifices are a rule of a less pretentious type than the great abbeys

of earlier and more prosperous days . Barons built and endowed chapels on their own estates or i n neighbouri n g

d c m towns . The en owmen t usually spe ified the nu ber of “ ” a s clergy attached to the c hurch and known the College . The most famous o f these Collegiate churches wa s that

o f G u eldres founded by Mary , the queen of James II

18 8 o f Tri nity College , which Stood till 4 on part the

8 - 2 116 MIDLOTHIAN

ground now occupied by the Waverley Station . It con sisted of choir, transepts, and central tower ; and the design and execution were as fine as in the best G othic

’ S t G i s le , E dinburg h

f structures in England . Many of its eatures were repro du c ed in the modern Trinity College Church in Jeff rey

Street .

118 MIDLOTHIAN G ’ The old church of St iles , wh ich had been burnt 1 8 by the English in 3 5 , was restored and made Collegiate 1 66 ff n in 4 , since when at di erent times it has bee enlarged and altered . The general plan of the church is cruciform , “ ’ ” the lantern tower, the ancient croon o stane , springing A from the meeting of the arms . isles lead out of the main transept . The roof is groined , and the windows G are all in the Perpendicular othic style, filled in with

At wa s fine Stained glass . the Reformation the church divided into four compartments, three of which were f used as places o worship . Round the walls booths of merchants were attached and these were known a s the “ ” m u n ifi c e n c e Krames . Largely by the of Si r William ’ St G Chambers , the publisher , iles was restored to its

is original unity . It now regarded as the national church o f Scotland and the depository o f the shot- torn flags of o f Scottish regiments , and other memorials . Through a bequest of the Earl of Leven and Melville a beautiful chapel for the Knights o f the Thistle has lately been

- o f added at the south east corner the main building . The most outstanding incident in the history of St G iles ’ is the riot which took place when the N ewLiturgy was

16 . read, 3 7 Roslin Chapel o n the north bank o f the Esk is also on e of these fifteenth century Collegiate churches , and is G a fine example of the Decorated or Florid Style of othic .

of In spite of cramped outline and want symmetry , it is peculiarly interesting and attractive on account of the

o f variety and elegance detail in its window tracery, its

ff s thirteen di erent kinds of arches, its flying buttres es,

120 MIDLOTHIAN

and its pinnacles and mouldings . Concerning one of its ’ f pillars, the Prentice or Prince s Pillar , the amiliar legend is related of the apprentice of genius who in h is master ’s absence executed the work in so fine a manner as to incur the jealousy of the master, who killed him by a blow of 1 6 his own hammer . The chapel was founded in 44 by

C o rs to rp h i n e C h urc h

William St Clair, whose family had a hereditary con n ec tio n M with the asonic craft . O nly the chancel was completed .

Corstorphine Church , recently; restored, was founded in 1429 by Sir John Forrester ; and the monuments to the Forrester family are Specially interesting . The church is in the form of a cross with an additional

122 MIDLOTHIAN whose founder is said to have rendered timely aid to James V in one of his escapades as the G udeman of

Ballengeich .

In pre - Reformation times Resta lrig Church was famous as the sh rine of St Triduana , who died at Res ta lrig and who wa s Specially helpful to persons suff ering

- A from eye diseases . Collegiate church was established there by James III in 148 7 ; but the first G eneral As “ sem bly ordained that the church as a monument o f idolatrie be ra ys it and u tterlie casten downe and de ” A ri a - stroyed . oct gonal chapter house with groined roof, adjoining the church , has lately been restored . O ther county churches worthy of notice are those of

M idc a lder Crichton , Dalkeith , Torphichen , , and Dudding At ston . the gateway of the last named still hang the ou r ff j g , an iron collar and chain by which o enders were confined and exposed to the censure o f their pious neigh ’ lau i n - on sta n e bours ; and close by is the p , where ladies mounted their horses o n leaving church .

O f the Edinburgh churches built in recent times, ’ we can mention only St Mary s Cathedral . This mag n ifi c e n t fabric with its spire rising to almost 3 0 0 feet is o n e of the most important churches reared in B ritain a since the fifteenth century . Its general style is E rly

English ; and it was planned by Sir G ilbert Scott . The

18 foundation stone was laid in 74, and the cathedral was formally opened in 18 7 9 . Th e o s D u ddi n s to n c J ug , g C h ur h 124 MIDLOTHIAN

— 1 . A h o M l a 9 rc ite ctu re ( ) i it ry . It has been already noted that in Scotland as elsewhere the earliest form of fortification was probably the earthen mound surrounded by a wooden palisade on a turf wall .

The crannog and the broch were common , the latter specially in the north . Building in stone and lime was perhaps introduced by the Normans who flocked into the A country in the eleventh and twelfth centuries . lthough no original Norman keeps remain , thei r style was imitated in the peel towers wh ich were built in many places after the War of Independence . Previous to the war the thirteenth cen tury was a time of prosperity in Scotland — and many castles were built after the older model a large fortified enclosure , usually quadrangular in shape , with the angles strengthened by towers and the gateway defended by a portcullis . But the exhaustion of the war changed the character of these places of defence . Simpli city and strength were the essentials , and the fashion of N the orman keep was adopted . The Simple keep consisted of a rectangular tower with thick walls ending at the roof in a projecting parapet, from which the fort was defended and which had there fore openings or machicolations to permit of missiles being launched upon assailants . The ground floor was vaulted and was chiefly used as a Store - room and a place of pro ’ tec tio n : for the baron s cattle it had also a loft, where the menials slept . The entrance to the tower was on the second story and was reached by a removable ladder .

126 MIDLOTHIAN

a simple keep of this kind , though it was built in the

fifteenth century and is only two stories in height . So

C ra i lo c kh a rt C a kem u ir also are g and , the latter famous

M e rc h i s to n C a s tl e as having sheltered Queen Mary when sh e fled in male attire from Borthwick Castle , three miles away, to meet

Bothwell . The simple keep form aff orded little accommodation ARCHITECTURE— MILITARY 127 o f a private ki n d , an d th is wan t caused the various modi

fi c a tio n s L known as the , the Z , the E, and the T plans, and also an approximation to the earlier castle form o f an encircling wall with strengtheni ng towers . Dalhousie

wa s Castle, now much altered and enlarged , origi nally a keep with one wi ng on the L plan . Such also were

Merchiston Castle , Hatton House, Inch House , and

wa s Ba vela wCastle . Borthwick Castle a keep with two

wings and thus approached the E plan . The Z plan is

C ra i c roo k Ra velsto n exemplified i n g Castle , House , and

Ri a r n c c to House . It was adopted when firearms became general , the two wi n gs enabling the defenders to rake the

r approach to the main building on all sides . Ba b e to n

House is built on the E plan .

The courtyard gradually developed in importance , and along the inner face of the wall of enc ei n te a number of outhouses came to be built to provide the further ae com m o da tio n required . Thus Craigmillar and Crichton are keeps which have been extended i nto castles by the addi

n tion o f buildi ngs roun d the courtyard . Indeed Edi burgh Castle and Holyrood Palace may be regarded a s of this

a s m type , which , times beca e more settled and defence m could be subordinated to co fort, developed more and more the charac ter o f a mansion built round a quad

o f rangle . But the mansion con tinued to retain many the distinctive features of the fort , and thus the Scottish

Baronial style of architecture , with its crowstepped gables,

i ts wa s its corbellings, and turrets , evolved and gave to the buildings of the seventeenth century and later times thei r

peculiar picturesqueness . 128 MIDLOTHIAN

The castle o f Edinburgh has been so frequently altered that nothing of earlier date than the fifteenth century re ’ St mains, with the exception of Margaret s Chapel already noticed . The old Parliament Hall in the upper part of the castle was long used as a military hospital but has now been restored to something like its former dignity . The Royal Palace near by was used a s a residence by kings

S c o tt i s h R e g alia

n of and quee s Scotland for several generations . The most interesting room in i t is that in which Queen Mary 1 6 6 gav e birth to James VI in 5 . Its old ceiling of panelled wood with painted monograms and crowns still R remains . The Crown oom contains the ancient regalia, “ ” o f S 1 0 the Honours cotland , deposited there in 7 7 after many vicissitudes . Mons Meg, the oldest cannon in

13 0 MIDLOTHIAN

France, got its name from being the residence of her At 1 French attendants . an earlier date , 47 7 , Craigmillar

o f o f was the scene of the imprisonment the Earl Mar , f 16 6 0 brother o James III . In the castle passed from

o f o f the possession the family Preston , who held it in ’ o f G m Queen Mary s time , to that il our, whose present representative keeps the building in an excellent state of repair . A rocky promontory almost surrounded by a loop of the North Esk aff ords a good vantage ground for the

o f n o w castle Roslin . The oldest part remaining, a tower near the entrance , dates from about the beginning o f A the fourteenth century . dditions at later times made the castle a place of considerable size and importance . St O ne of its owners , Clai r, third Earl of O rkney , kept a 1 State almost kingly . In 544 the castle was among those ’ destroyed during He rtfo rd s invasion ; and after being restored it was battered and captured by Monk in 16 50 . Th e ' c a ves beneath the castle were used partly as rooms ’ for servants and partly as dungeons . Scott s ballad of

Rosa belle celebrates the castle and its lordly owners . O f an older building, the Maiden Castle , which stood near by

o f Esk . in another link the , not even the ruins are left Borthwick Castle occupies a strong natural position o n a tongue o f land between two head waters of the G S ore, the outh and the North Middleton Burn , to whose banks the castle ridge runs steeply down on th ree

o f Sides . The place was originally known as the Mote

Lo c h erwo rt its and took later name from its founder,

C a tc u n e Sir William Borthwick, whose earlier seat was at

13 2 MIDLOTHIAN

Castle a mile and a half further down the G ore . The walls of the keep are 14 feet thick at the bottom and

6 to 110 feet at the p, and rise to a height of feet, where

Th e they sustain a roof of stone slabs . entrance to the m great hall , a magni ficent apart ent , was by an outer Stai r and drawbridge ; and the castle was further defended by a Strong wall round the courtyard . It is chiefly famous

Cri c h to n Ca s tl e for its association with Queen Mary and Bothwell in

1 6 its 16 0 5 7 , and for stout resistance in 5 to Cromwell , who had to “ bend his cannon against it ” before the garrison under the tenth Lord Borthwick capitulated . The unusual height to which the walls were carried is probably explained by the fact that this made possi ble communication , by signalli ng, with the castle of Crichton

13 4 MIDLOTHIAN

— 2 0 . A h e e e M n l rc it ctu r ( ) u ici p a .

The most ancient municipal building was the To] . wa s booth , wh ich in origin the strong house of the civic authority in the burgh , and some part of which invariably served as the town prison . It usually had a tower with a bell to mark the time or to summon the burghers A t to arms . a later date another u se became more prominent as the burgh grew in size and importance

T n the olbooth came to be the Cou cil Chamber . The prison was by and by disjoined , and this permitted the building to be made more elaborate .

C a n o n a te 1 1 h as Thus the g Tolbooth , erected in 59 , a tower representing the earlier keep type and serving as A belfry and prison . djoining the tower and entering by an outside stai r is the Council Chamber of later date . “ ” o f The Edinburgh Tolbooth , the Heart Midlothian , one of the scenes of the Porteous Riot Stood in the middle of the High Street , but was removed in

1 1 I ts - 8 7 . site is now marked by a heart shaped arrange ment o f causeway stones i n the footway between the ’ Buccleuch Statue and St G iles Cathedral .

Musselburgh Tolbooth consists of th ree stories, each vaulted . It is of massive construction with bartizans

n and parapets projected o corbels . The entrance to the

is A n Council Chamber on the east by an outside stai r . older Tolbooth was destroyed in 1544 and the present was 1 0 erected in 59 , but part of the tower may belong to the original edifice . The materials used i n the reconstruction ARCHITECTURE— MUNICI PAL 13 5 were taken from the ancient chapel o f Loretto and this sacrilege drew upon the town the annual sentence of excommunication passed by the Pope for about two

To M s s e wn Hall , u lburg h

Th e hundred years . Renaissance Council Chamber was 1 6 r added i n 7 2 . Thus the th ree stages are all epresented

- the keep , a strong sixteenth century structure , and a late

council chamber .

13 8 MIDLOTHIAN

Many of the educational buildings are worthy of note . G eorge Heriot ’ s Hospital may be described as full of

architectural contradictions . From a distance its turrets,

pinnacles, and chimneys appear to be grouped without

o n e n design ; nearer, seems to find symmetry of dispositio between the halves o f the building ; and on a still closer

inspection the surprising truth is found to be that, except o n e G in case, no two parts are exactly alike , othic ,

Roman , and Corinthian styles being curiously mingled . The Hospital is built about an interior quadrangle with

four square towers at the corners, the towers themselves

having turrets at thei r angles . The connecting curtain wall is broken in front by the segment of an octagonal

tower with G oth ic windows . The interior basement

story is arcaded round the paved quadrangle , and a Statue “ ’ ” ’ G s ee of the pious founder, Jinglin eordie ( Scott s

Fortunes o Ni el f g ), is placed in a niche over the vaulted

entrance . Inigo Jones is doubtfully credited with the main design ; the execution appears to have been carried

out by various master masons, notably William Wallace 1 2 8 . 6 of Tranent The building, begun in and finished

16 0 wa s in 5 , occupied by Cromwell as a military hospital

after the Battle of Dunbar . O riginally an institution

where the foundationers were boarded and educated , it

is now an important secondary school , specially equipped

o n the scientific and technical sides .

A h as similar i nstitution , which however retained its ’ original purpose , is Donaldson s Hospital , where boys and — — girls especially , deaf mutes are boarded and taught . The hospital occupies a splendid site i n the western

140 MIDLOTH]AN

suburb of M u rra yfi eld above the gorge of Leith Water . — It was built ( 1842 5 1) from designs by W . H . Playfai r and is a fine palatial structure in the Tudor style , arranged round a quadrangle . G l L, The enera Post O ffice occupies a site where Stood formerly the Theatre Royal and Shakespeare Square . It is in Italian style and h a s several times been added to since

D e e i b an Bridg , E d n urg h

1 — is it wa s built in 8 6 1 66 . O pposite it the Register

House , wh ere the national records are kept , a handsome building also Italian i n style with fine Corinthian decora

A n tion . equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington

o f stands i n front the en tran ce . The alternation of ridge and hollow i n the contour of the site of the city makes Edinburgh a place o f bridges . N O f these the orth B ridge , joining the New Town and

142 MIDLOTHIAN which had thus a false front of ti mber and the real stone one some seven or eight feet within . Later this type of house was built with stone fronts, the arcade still being preserved and the upper floors in some cases projecting o n wa s corbels each a little beyond the one beneath , as the case with an old house which stood till near the end of last century at the corner o f the La wn m a rket and th e

West Bow . Usually an outside stone Stair led up to the first floor and further communication was by internal stairs “ ” o f so - wood . The called Speaking House in the Canon

m o ttoeS gate, with its quaint , is now the only specimen

- left of the old timber fronted house once so common .

Within , these houses were frequently richly decorated , the walls in panelled wood , the ceilings in ornamental

AS in plaster work of quaint and beautiful design . the flu en c e o f the Renaissance spread the architecture of the town house lost its peculiar Scottish characteristics . John Knox ’ s House Stands at the foot of the High Street close to where the N eth erbo wPort once formed

to the eastern entrance the town . Though the house is now divided into various portions, it was originally one “ ” large house o f four stories with a laigh floor under the street level and also attics . The building is peculiar from the fact that the projections superadded to the main block f are partly o f stone and partly o timber . Some of the w details of the stone ork are interesting, notably th e figure o f - Moses carved above two sun dials , and pointing to a “ ” su n C C G o d inscribed E E, Deus , ; and also the motto o n the frieze over the street floor windows ’ J o h n K n o x s H o u s e 144 MIDLOTHIAN

The connection o f John Knox with the house is hardly ffi su ciently authenticated . ’ ’ Bailie M a c m o rra n s House in Riddle s Close is an ex c ellen t example o f the courtyard house as adapted to town conditions and used partly for residence and partly for business purposes . Th e rich internal decorations were striking evidence o f the wealth and importance of the owner— the prominent merchant and magistrate whose “ ” tragic death in the barring- out escapade of the High

' ’ School boys in 159 5 is related in Ch a m b e rs s D om estic

An na l s . O f all the residential buildings the most interesting i s . historically Holyrood Palace The abbey, which has already been noticed , was frequently resorted to by S m cottish sovereigns fro Robert Bruce to James IV , the latter o f whom founded close beside it a royal palace ; and this was enlarged by his successor, mostly destroyed 1 by Hertford i n 544, rebuilt immediately thereafter, acci ’ dentally burnt while occupied by Cromwell s troops , and l finally reconstructed by Charles II . The p an includes two square towers, with round towers at their front angles , these angular towers termi nating in conical roofs in Scottish Baronial sixteenth century style . Between the two mai n towers runs a lower screen wall recessed fro m the front line o f the towers and pierced in the

. middle by the main entrance, which is surmounted by a crown . The south tower and the greater part of the connecting masonry of the quadrangle are late in date , but the north tower is part o f the sixteenth century building and contains the most interesting part of the

146 MIDLOTHIAN

M ’ palace , Queen ary s rooms, which are maintained as G when She lived in them . The Picture allery , with its rows o f wretched portraits, mostly imaginary , of Scot tish kings, many of them fictitious, was the scene of Prince ’ 1 is a s Charles Edward s receptions in 745 . It now used the meeting- place o f the Scottish Peers when they assem ble at the beginnin g of each Parliament to elect Sixteen

’ ee M s e o m o o o Q u n ary B dro , H ly r d

a s representatives to the House of Lords, and the levee

' ‘ : ro oni 0 f the Lord High Commissioner, during the annual

Sittings of the G eneral Assembly o f the Church of Scotland . The New Town exhibits some fine examples o f domestic architecture , especially in the squares , crescents, circuses, and terraces, which were laid out in the latter part o f the eighteenth and the beginning of the nineteenth century . ARCHITECTURE— DOMESTIC 147

It was noted above that the courtyard type o f castle developed into the mansion as defence became less n ec es At sary . the same time the interiors also underwent a

m a s transfor ation comfort came to be Studied , and increased

D alk e it h H o u s e wealth employed art and elegance to decorate and beautify the home . O f the numerous Splendid mansion houses in

Midlothian only a few can be noticed .

A o f rniston , an eighteenth century house massive and

I 0 — 2 148 MIDLOTHIAN

imposing appearance , is finely situated in extensive grounds through which flows the Esk . Carberry Tower occupies a commanding position on the northern Slope of Carberry Hill . Dalhousie Castle is a fin e old baronial mansion plea

l n sa n t y situated o the banks of the South Esk . The

Hawt h o rnd e n Ca s tl e

Strong defences of the ancient castle have been modified

o k to adapt the house to modern requirements . C c pen House which once stood on the opposite side of the river

is was bought by the Earl of Dalhousie, who accordingly “ ’ n the titular Lai rd o C o c kpe .

ARCH ITECTURE— DOMESTIC 15 1

O ne o f the most interesting of Midloth ian mansions i is Pinkie House near Mussel burgh . The building s of ff di erent periods , the older part being a massive Square 1 1 tower with picturesque turrets at its angles . In 6 3 the

o f house was greatly extended by its owner , the Earl

u D nfermline, who added its most i n teresti n g room , the G is Painted allery, the roof of whi ch lin ed with wood

O x e n f o o rd Cas tl e painted with coarse but powerful representations o f

c Ed heraldi and mythological subjects . Prince Charles ward is said to have stayed in the house the ni ght after the battle of Preston pans .

C ra i c roo k ff g , once the residence of Lord Je rey ;

Merchiston , formerly the seat of the Napiers, especially h im — N e wh a iles of logarithmic fame the auld wizard ; , 15 2 MIDLOTH IAN

built by the famous lawyer and antiquary , Sir David m N Dalry ple , Lord Hailes ; ewhall , birthplace of D r

A Pen n ic u ik Niddrie - lexander , poet and physician ; Mari

W a u c h o es schall , home for many generations of th e p , and

O x e n foo rd beloved by Lord Cockburn ; , a magnificent edifice in the valley of the Tyne , the seat of the Earl S of tai r ; Whitehill , a fine example of Jacobean style ; “ ” Woodhouselee , successor to the haunted Woodhouselee ’ of Scott s G rey B rat/oer ; all of these are worthy of note did Space permit .

— 2 2 C o m m u n i c a t i o n s Pa s a n d P e s e n . . t r t

Like those in other parts of B ritain previous to the

o f middle the eighteenth century , the roads of Lowlan d Scotland were little more than beaten tracks winding along ” h illside and th rough valley . Made roads were practically unknown until the passi ng of the fi rst Scottish Turnpike 1 Ac t in 7 50 . Two great roads long survived in Southern Scotland to testify to the energy and engineering skill of the Romans ; but during the Middle Ages road - making was a lost art, and in the beginning of the eighteenth century the condition of the roads may be inferred from the fact that the contractor wh o undertook to run coaches between Edinburgh and G lasgow did not guarantee to

ix complete the double journey in less than s days . Sixty fi ve mi nutes n o wsuff ices for an express train to convey 1 its passengers from the one city to the other . By 7 7 3 matters must have considerably improved, for Dr Samuel

15 4 MIDLOTH IAN

. G and Coldstream The second goes by ilmerton ,

Eskba n k S , and outra to Lauder, on by Earlston to

1 0 . Jedburgh , crossing Carter Fell ( 3 5 ft ) and so to

Th e e S o t Lugg i , u ra

A old Newcastle . third route , of dominated by the castles of Borthwick and Crichton , follows th e valleys

Es k G G G of the , the ore , and the ala to alashiels and

Hawick . COMMUNICATIONS 15 5

The Esk valley is also used as far a s Pen icuik by the

Peebles road, which passes thence by Leadburn to the

o f so valley Eddleston Water, and i nto Tweeddale , and from there by Tweedsmuir over the Lowthers and the ’ ff Devil s Beef Tub to Mo at . Clydesdale is reached by either o f the roads running on the north and south Sides of the Pentlands , the former

L to by Currie , the ang Whan g, and Carnwath Lanark , L L and the latter by West inton and Biggar . anark may

v id also be reached the three Calders , Wilsontown , and

Forth . To G lasgow the old road wa s by M idc a lde r and Shotts ; another route traverses the busy mining centres A A of Broxburn , Uphall , Bathgate , rmadale , irdrie , and

Coatbridge and a thi rd goes by Linlithgow and Falkirk .

This last leads also to Stirling and the north .

Besides these main routes cross - roads innumerable cover the county in all directions .

Road and rail alike follow the easiest possible gradients, and it is not surprising therefore to fi nd that their tracks

- are often parallel . The well known East Coast route to England runs alongside the c oast road by Dunbar and

Berwick . This wa s the original line of the North

to British Company , which was formed work the railway between Berwick and Edi n burgh . The Waverley route

o f G G takes advantage the Esk , ore , and ala valleys, the ridge between the two last being crossed at a height 0 0 of 9 feet near Heriot station . The line conti nues by A h Hawick to Carlisle . t ird route to England is that

by the Caledon ian Railway , whi ch passes west into 15 6 MIDLOTHIAN

G Lanarkshire , joins the lasgow line at Carstairs, and

follows Clydesdale and Annandale to Carlisle . Th ree lines connect with G lasgow : ( 1) the North British by Linlithgow and Polmont ; (2) the North B ritish by Bathgate and Airdrie ; and (3)the Caledonian

M idc a lde r by and Shotts . Both these companies provide communication also with A fli the north . t one time the N orth British tra c with A Fi fe , Dundee , and berdeen was conducted by ferries over the Forth between G ranton and Burntisland or between

Ta South and North Queensferry, and over the y between Tayport and Broughty Ferry ; but the erection O f the Forth and Tay bridges has greatly improved these - parts of

their service . The Caledonian route makes use of the North

British line to Larbert and crosses the Forth at Stirling .

Short lines from Edinburgh connect with Leith , G ranton , and Corstorphi n e ; and a circular railway, the

Suburban , Serves the outskirts Of the city . There are

besides, branch lines from the main lines to numerous

centres of population in the county . Tramways worked by underground cables serve the

city and connect at Joppa with an electric tramway, which passes on by Musselburgh and Prestonpans to

Port Seton , following the shore road . Leith tramway system is also electri c and a short line h a s recently been S Opened from Dalry to lateford , whence extensions are w under construction to Redford near Colinton , here new cavalry and infantry barracks are being built . The first tramways in Scotland were built to transport coal ; and it is interesting to note that the first to carry

15 8 MIDLOTHIAN

to the older civil parish . Indeed , until the work of the Boundary Commissioners under the Local G overnment

A c t 188 ff (Scotland) 9 took e ect , it was no uncommon

thing to find a parish divided between two counties . A registration county need not coincide with the civil county ; and a parliamentary constituency may include districts which for other purposes are in diff erent a dm in i

stra tive areas . A shire or county was originally a division of the ff country supervised by a royal representative, the sheri . Sheriffdoms in Scotland were in existence at least as early

o f as the reign David I , but their number and the extent o f their jurisdiction naturally underwent frequent m o difi ff cation in unsettled times . The sheri dom of Lothian is known to have been o n e of the fi rst to be constituted ;

but, although its nominal extent was probably over all

o f the three modern counties Linlithgow, Edinburgh , and ff Haddington , the authority of the sheri came to be greatly restricted by royal grant o f special jurisdictions to various

personages and communities within these bounds . Thus

the Constable of Edinburgh Castle, the Justiciar of A Lothian , the Provost of Edinbu rgh , the bbot of Holy Of A rood , the Monks Dunfermline, the rchbishop of

A S D o u la ses St ndrews, the tewarts, the g , and the Barons

O f Du ddin ston Presto n h a ll g , , and Carrington , all exercised jurisdiction O f some sort within the territory o f the Sheriff All o f of Lothian . these powers , together with the

o f ff f hereditary character the sheri ship itsel , were abolished in 1747 . The Militia A c t of 17 8 2 s et up in each county ADMINISTRATION 15 9

o f L a kind military organisation , headed by the ord

is Lieutenant , who chosen by the Crown from the local gentry and is supported by a number o f deputy lieutenants . These positions, however, are largely cere ffi ff monial ; and the chief county o cial is the paid sh eri , wh o with the help of sheriff - substitutes is responsible for

many important administrative and judicial duties . The district of the Sheriff of the Lothians now includes Mid

lothian , Linlithgowshi re, Haddingtonsh ire , and Peebles

ff - shire and he is assisted by four sheri substitutes . A large amount of unpaid public work is done by

Justices of the Peace , local gentlemen appointed for such

duties by the Lord Chancellor .

o f Three types burghs are represented in the county .

is — Edinburgh a royal burgh one of 55 such in Scotland .

As the name indicates , these are governed by corporations which have been constituted by Royal Charter . They have also the privilege of sendin g repre sentatives to Parliament apart from the coun ty constituen cy within

is which they are situated . It to be noted that at one time C a n o n ga te and Po rts b u rgh were separate burghs

m burghs of regality, but they were a algamated with the

6 h a s 18 6 . 18 city in 5 Portobello , Since 9 , also been muni c i a ll f o r p y incorporated in the city , althoug h Parliamen tary purposes it is still conjoined with Leith and Musselburgh .

These two are not royal burghs, havin g no Royal Charter but the privilege o f Parliam entary representation was

m conferred upon the , alon g with twelve other Scottish A towns , by the Reform cts ; and they are therefore

called Parliamentary Burghs . 16 0 MIDLOTHIAN

Places with a population o f more than 7 0 0 m a y

a A a n d become i n corporated by dopting the Police cts,

n this has bee done by Bonnyrigg, Dalkeith , Lasswade,

' Loanhead , and Penicuik . They are known as Police

- Burghs, and have powers of self government in such

a s matters cleaning, lighting, paving, and generally improving the burgh , according to the extent in which A they have adopted the general cts . The Town Council is the ruling authority i n ' the

' ff a r l a airs of the burgh . The councillors e e ec ted by the

o n e - h ouseholders for a term of th ree years , third being elected yearly ; an d the larger burghs are divided into wards for election purposes . The magistrates are chosen annually by the Council , and perform certain judicial functions in the police and licensing courts . Previous to the passing of the Local G overnment

Ac t 18 f (Scotland) 9 9 , coun ty af airs were in the hands m of several bodies , viz . the Com issioners of Supply , the

A co n County Road Trustees, the Local uthorities stituted to ad m in ister special A cts relating to public

c o r health , etc . , and the Justi es of the Peace . With one two trifling exceptions the administrative powers of all these bodies were by the A c t cited above transferred to

County Councils . Roads and bridges, public health ,

a d diseases of animals , valuation , finance , and general ministration are under the control of the Council . Police administration is managed by a joint committee re pre s en ta ti ve of the County Council and the Commissioners of Supply . The latter are practically the land owners i n a re the county, and their public functions as a body

16 2 MIDLOTHIAN

For ecclesiastical affairs the parishes are mos tly included in the Presbyteries of Edinburgh and Dalkeith , which again are embraced in the Synod o f Lothian an d

. is Tweeddale Kirkliston , however, in the Presbytery of

S o f Linlithgow , and tow is in the Presbytery Earlston and

T viotd le the Synod of the Merse and e a . As regards Parliamentary representation there are four constituencies in the city ; Leith , Portobello, and Mussel burgh are combined as the Leith Burghs ; and the rest of the county forms o n e constituency so that Six members are returned from the whole area . Elementary education is con trolled mainly by School Ac t 18 2 B oards, first constituted by the Education of 7 , whi ch set up in each burgh and parish a Board with power to impose a rate fo r the support of the necessary

o f schools, the levying the rate however being in the hands o f the Parish Counci l . The schools are maintained chiefly by these rates and by grants from G overnment S administered by the cotch Education Department, which is the supreme authority under Parliament . Certain church schools are not under the control of the School A Boards . ttendance at school is compulsory between

of S the ages five and fourteen , and in Board chools as

o f a rule no fees are charged for th is stage education . After the elementary stage follows what is now technically called the Intermediate course , providing in specified ’ schools a th ree years curriculum in languages , mathe

m a tic s . S , science , and other recognised subjects econdary ’ schools Off er a similar curriculum o f five years dura

o f tion , leading up to the attainment the Leaving ADMINISTRATION 16 3

iS d Certificate, which regar ed as a passport to a university course .

' Many of these secondary schools possess la rge en dowl

ri ettes o me ts left by their pious founders . F C llege , a conspicuous G othic building on the northern outskirts of 186 — 0 the city, was erected in 5 7 and endowed under a

ir o f see bequest of S William Fettes Comely Bank ( p . It ' is conducted on the lines of the great English public S — chools, as are also Merchiston the main building of

C o f — which is the ancient astle the Napiers and Loretto ,

of at Musselburgh , both which are proprietary establish

A Row ments . The Edinburgh cademy in Henderson was instituted in 18 24 by a committee o f citizens among Sir whom were Walter Scott, Henry Cockburn , and Henry

- of Mackenzie . It is a day school and is managed by a body di rectors under a royal charter . Th e Merchant Company Education Board has under its care G eorge Watson ’ s Boys ’ S ’ ’ College , Daniel tewart s College , the Edinburgh Ladies ’ ’ G : G College , and eorge Watson s Ladies College eorge ’ Heriot s school is under the Heriot Trust : and the School Board controls the Royal High School and the Higher

G S Boro u h m u ir rade chools of g , Broughton , and Porto e b llo . In all the School Board areas throughout the county provision is made for completing elementary education in continuation classes and in many cases these classes off er also instruction Of a specialised type relating to the main

industries of the locality .

Besides the general system of education here outlined ,

there are several technical institutions, in which training

I I — 2 16 4 MIDLOTHIAN

as for particular arts and crafts is obtainable , such the

- Art Heriot Watt College , the College of , the College A S of griculture, the Veterinary College, the chool of

Domestic Economy , and the Training Colleges for T eachers .

2 Th 4 . e Ro ll of Honou r . From early times Edinburgh and its neighbourhood A have been intimately associated with royalty . fter the death of Malcolm Canmore its castle aff orded a refuge to

c om m em or his widow and family . The sainted queen is ated by a chapel dedicated to her name ; and her sons and

successors frequently resided in the Castle , and in the abbey

of Holyrood founded by David I . In the times of the Stuart dynasty the town became the chief burgh of the country and was closely identified with the fortunes of ’ II S that royal house . In James reign it was definitely

recognised as the metropolis, and James IV built Holyrood

of of Palace . Much the Story Q ueen Mary has its scene

laid in the city and its vicinity, various castles and mansions,

notably Craigmillar , having been occupied by her at dif

n so n fere t times . Her King James VI was born in the Castle and frequently resided in Holyrood before the Union

Ch a rleS I of the Crowns . and Charles II are also asso c ia ted with the Palace and , as is noticed elsewhere, the gallant and ill - fated Bonnie Prince Charlie kept court 1 there in 7 45 . O ther royal personages have Since v isited G and resided in the city , notably eorge IV , Q ueen Vic t G . oria, Edward VII , and eorge V

16 6 MIDLOTHIAN

S — a deeply the religious li fe of cotland the Reform tion , — the struggle against Episcopacy, and the Disruption and pro m inent churchmen connected with the district were closely associated with all these movements .

of S John Knox , the greatest the cottish Reformers , was born in the neighbouring county of Haddington . — When in 1555 56 Knox conducted h is first campaign for the Reformed religion , Edinburgh was h is head ’ quarters ; and later he was appointed minister of St G iles

S o e i n m e S e m k a ro x i t n P arlia nt quar , E dinburg h , ar ing p p ’ m a te ly th e pla c e o f K n o x s g rav e i n w h at wa s f o rm e rly ’ th e C h urc h y ard o f S t G i l e s

His antagonism to Q ueen Mary and his famous disputa tion with her in her palace of Holyrood are recounted by

be R a tion i n c otla nd himself in h is H istory of t ef orm S . In o f S the causeway Parliament quare , formerly part of the ’ o f G churchyard St iles , a plain flat stone with brass letters marks the place where , in the words of Regent Morton , THE ROLL OF HONOUR 16 7

“ lyeth one who in h is life never feared the face of man “ That fine flower of Scottish theology, Robert

Leighton , was a student of Edinburgh University , of

wh ich he afterwards became Principal . He wa s appointed minister of Newbattle in 164 1 and there composed the

best of his theological writings . These reveal a nature o f singular beauty and Spirituality .

S O f M idc a lde r a n d John pottiswoode , a native a his

o f A torian the Church of Scotland , rose to be rchbishop of St Andrews and took a leading part in the attempt to

impose Episcopacy on the church . He crowned C h a rles I

at Holyrood in 163 3 . Another historian an d Principal also of Edinburgh

wa s University William Robertson , born at Borthwick o f G 1 2 1. in 7 He became minister reyfriars, in the

churchyard o f which he is buried . His Histories of

A o f R Scotland, of merica, and the eign of the Emperor fi Charles V , notably the last , are digni ed in style and

sagacious in judgment . A The autobiography of lexander Carlyle , minister of

1 8 18 0 be Inveresk from 7 4 to 5, is specially interesting cause o f h is intimacy with many noted men of his time

and of h is having been an eye - witness of events in the

- Forty fi ve Rebellion and the Porteous Riot . He was a “ man o f imposing appearance and was nicknamed Jupiter ” Carlyle . John Home , clergyman and dramatist, author ’ f D ou la s a Tra ed o f O . g , g y, was on e Carlyle s intimates G A . nother minister Of Old reyfriars , the Rev Robert

Lee , Professor of Biblical Criticism , was a great i nnovator 16 8 MIDLOTHIAN in the order o f church service and excited much criticism by h is introduction of instrumental music . Prominent leaders in the controversy which ended in the Disruption , and afterwards eminent Free Churchmen , T were homas Chalmers and Thomas G uth rie, who were alike also in their eloquence as preachers and in their zeal for social reform .

Besides the historians already named , we may note A A that Si r rchibald lison , a member of the Scottish bar,

H i stor o who lived at Woodville , Colinton , wrote his y f “ Europe to prove that Providence was on the Side of the Tories and that th ree generations of the Ty tlers of

G len c o rse Woodhouselee, near , all made names as his to ria n s . William Tytler vindicated the memo ry of Q ueen Mary from the charges brought against her by A Robertson and Hume ; h is eldest son , lexander Fraser was Tytler, afterwards Lord Woodhouselee , Professor of History in the University and wrote a treatise entitled

Elem ents o G en era lH istor f y ; and Patrick Fraser Tytler,

so n A e fourth of lexander, is well known by his admirabl

H i tor o cotla nd s y f S . A S nother cottish historian and man of letters , John

C ra i loc kh a rt Hill Burton , lived at g and at Morton House, while Sir John Skelton resided at the Hermitage of Braid near the city .

David Hume was both historian and philosopher .

H i stor o En la nd l His y f g is Still read , and his philosophica writings were o f considerable importance in the develop ment of modern thought . O ther ph ilosophers of the Scottish school associated with Edinburgh were Dugald

17 0 MIDLOTHIAN

2 G S G S 5 eorge quare , h is own first house in eorge treet , and 3 9 Castle Street where he resided for 3 8 years and

m oSt o f did the work that brought him fame, still remain , and at Lasswade is still to be seen the cottage wh ich was his country home for a few years . ’ S son - in - la w Lockhart , cott s and biographer, was a member of the Edinburgh bar, who failed as an advocate

L e o cott and devoted himself to literature . His if f S is one o f the greatest biograph ies ever penned .

A v nother Edinburgh ad ocate , James Boswell , wrote

Li e o Sa m uel obnson the f f y , admittedly the greatest bio

o f graphy in English . He was the son a Judge in the

Court of Session . Boswell brought his great patron to Edinburgh en route for the famous tour in the Highlands and Western Islands, and D r Johnson was much pleased

litera i by the reception he met with from the t of the city . A ttracted by letters of encouragement which the

o f Kilmarnock edition his poems brought him , Burns 1 8 6 came to Edinburgh in 7 and Spent the winter there ,

o f lionised by the society the day . His lodging was first ’ ’ La wn m a rket in Baxter s Close , , and afterwards in St James h Square . While in Edinburg he erected a tombstone to

e r u sso n - the memory of Robert F g , his ill fated predecessor

o f in the art of Scottish poesy , a native the city , and ’ B ra id Cla itlo Lei tly R a c es Fa rm er s author of , , and the ’ Sa turda i bt I n le o f Cotter s N . g , the last a prototype the y g

- Fergusson may be called the poet laureate of Edinburgh , which he apostrophises as

“ ’ Auld Reekie " wale o ilka town m That Scotland kens beneath th e oon .

17 2 MIDLOTHIAN

’ O ne of the most prominent o f Burn s s admirers was Henry M “ ” ackenzie , the Man of Feeling, as he was called from — o n e of his writings sentimental novels o f the school of S terne and Richardson .

R o b e rt F e rgu s s o n

A G en tle Sbe berd llan Ramsay , author of the p , carried on business first as a wig- maker and later as a bookseller in the High Street of Edinburgh ; and the quaint octa gonal house he built for himself on the Castle Hill is now part of the premises of the O utlook Tower facing down

174 MIDLOTHIAN describes local scenery picturesquely in one of the pro o u es eneid Sir lg to his translation of the A . David Lynd say , poet and satirist, was also a courtier at Holyrood , ” where he acted as keeper to the infant James V , who

- - A later appointed him Lord Lyon King a t rms . His poems

G eorge Bu c h an a n satirising th e faults of the clergy had no small eff ect in helping to bring about the Reformation . The greatest G scholar that Scotland has ever produced , eorge Buchanan , s én t th e of p last years h is life chiefly in Edinburgh , and

G fe fria rs 1 8 2 . was buried in y churchyard , 5 THE ROLL OF HONOUR 17 5

Three years later William Drummond was born ,

‘ ‘ “ whose house at Hawthornden was desc rib ed a s a sweet and soli tary seat and very fit and proper for the M uses There the ' poet enjoyed the friendship of his literary

brethren , notably Drayton , the great Montrose, and Ben

Jonson . At Lasswade and at various lodgings in Edinburgh “ that erratic genius Thomas de Q uincey , th e English ” - 18 2 8 18 O pium eater, lived from till his death in 59 , contributing to numerous periodicals his brilliant essays f on all manner o subjects . Lasswade School was for

o f three years the scene of the labours William Tennant ,

e F i r author of d nst r a . A t the end of the M all in Musselburgh stands a statue

of to David Macbeth Moir, the beloved physician the “ ” “ ’ B la c kwood s M a a z i n e honest toun and the Delta of g . His M a nsi e W a uc l) is still read for its humorous pictures

M a a of Scottish rural life . Mention of g reminds us of “ ” o f N oc tes d m John Wilson , Christopher North the

brosi a na e A to u n so n - in - ; William Edmonston y , h is law , best known by h is Lays of tloe Sc otti sla Ca v a liers ; and

W a llford Mrs O liphant, born at y near Musselburgh ,

Cb ronic les o Ca rli n ord B la c k whose f gf , first published in wood A , made her reputation as a novelist . nother novelist,

Miss Susan Ferrier , a native of Edinburgh , wrote stories

characterised by shrewd insight into national peculiarities . A lso a beloved physician was Dr John Brown , whose R a b and lois Friends and P et M a rj ori e are enrolled among

the immortals .

G of — James rant, the military novelist, author the 176 MIDLOTHIAN

Rom a nc e o W a r f , was born in Edinburgh , where after a short service in the army he resided for many years, and which he loved with a peculiar aff ection evidenced in his Old a nd N ew Edi nburgl) and M em ori a ls of Edi n

ur k a stle b g C . O ther h istorians of the good town were

D r J o h n Bro wn

Sir Aff Daniel Wilson and Robert Chambers . ection for Edinburgh characterised also one of the city ’ s most famous “ sons, Robert Louis Stevenson , inheritor of the traditions of Scott with the world pain of his own epoch super ” M f ’ added . any o Stevenson s writings allude to the

178 MIDLOTHIAN T citizens eminent in knowledge of the law . hree of ff the most famous were contemporaries and friends, Je rey, ff Brougham , and Cockburn . Je rey is best remembered

Edi n bur b Rev i ew by his connection with the g , which S owed its inception to Sydney mith , then resident in the

” Th e o tt e S s to C ag , wan n

city . Brougham , a man of the most wonderful range of knowledge and the greatest eccentricity of manners, rose

o f to be Lord Chancellor England, and was a protagonist ’ in the battle for Parliamentary Reform . Cockburn s M em ori a ls of bi s Ti m e is full of interest as a record of the most brilliant period in the history of Edinburgh , THE ROLL OF HONOUR 17 9

the first half of the nineteenth century . His home at

B on a l o n y Tower , beautifully Situated the north slope of the Pentlands near Colinton , was much resorted to by his legal and literary friends . O ther famous lawyers were

c s o e f e Fran i , L rd J fr y

D u n da ses of the Dalrymples , th e , Forbes Culloden , and

the witty Harry Erskine . In medicine the best known name is that o f Sir James

Young Simpson , the discoverer of chloroform , who helped greatly to build up the fame of the University as a medical

12— 2 18 0 MIDLOTHIAN

N n the school . In physical science apier of Merchisto , M inventor of logarithms ; Hutton and Hugh iller, geo l i ir o sts S . t g ; D Brewster and Professor Forbes , physicis s , are all associated with the town or neighbourhood . Hugh

Miller worked as a Stone - mason at N iddrie ; and after

W i tness wards, when editor of the , he resided in Portobello , 18 6 where he died in 5 . Edinburgh has contributed her quota to the ranks of

. S war Sir David Baird , the hero of eringapatam and “ - th e of the well known tale of oor Davie , was born in

La wn m a rket. G eneral Dundas, who laid the foundation S A T of British outh frica by his capture of Cape own , was a member of the famous legal family of that name .

ir A S Ralph bercromby , the British general who died in the moment of victory over the French at Aboukir in

18 0 1 S and one of the best and bravest of cottish soldiers, was a citizen of Edinburgh ; as was also Sir James Hope, f “ ’ ” o . afterwards Earl Hopetoun , one of Wellington s Men G A The house in eorge Square where lived dmiral Duncan , ’ the hero of Camperdown , is now occupied as a Ladies

in College . He and other naval commanders, Nelson cluded, admitted their indebtedness to John Clerk of

Eldin near Lasswade , who though he had no practical acquaintance with the art of war, evolved a highly successful theory of naval tactics on the ponds o f

Penicuik estate .

’ O f many fi rst- rate painters we may note Allan ’ so n Ramsay, the poet s , who rose to eminence as portrait G Of painter to eorge III ; Sir Henry Raeburn , a native S ’ tockbridge and a foundationer of Heriot s Hospital , who

18 2 MIDLOTHIAN

s portrayed all the eminent Scotsmen of his day , and who e A reputation is steadily growing ; lexander Nasmyth , his

a contemporary, the p inter of the best known portrait

T D uddin s ton of Burns ; John homson , minister of g , the first of Scottish landscape painters and still looked

S i r H e nry Ra e burn

a s . upon one of the best ; R Scott Lauder, subject painter

M c C u lloc h and illustrator of Scott ; Horatio , unrivalled

o f Sir N as a delineator Highland scenery ; oel Paton , poet as well as artist , whose religious, allegorical , and fanciful

so pictures are often reproduced ; and Sam Bough , an THE ROLL OF HONOUR 18 3

n glish m a n who settled in Edinburgh a n d obtained

id r le - n s e a b . fame as a self taught landscapist Kay, the

ric a tu rist . , was a native of Dalkeith He became a

rin tseller ber and p in Edinburgh , whose citizens he

mortalised with rude but eff ective skill . The list may Sir l y close with David Wi kie, who studied in the

din bu r h S g school , and whose place in cottish painting S comparable with that of cott and Burns in literat u re .

of - A Mention may also be made the architects dam , ’ St G ho designed the Register House , eorge s Church ,

(1 T wh o the University Buildings ; elford , planned the ea u tiful G M Dean Bridge ; and eorge eikle Kemp , native f Peeblesshire and draughtsman in Edinburgh , whose on u m e n t to Sir Walter Scott is a monument also to is own genius and taste . 2 5 . THE CHIEF TOWNS AN D V ILLAG ES A O F MIDL O THI N .

(Th e figures in brackets after a na m e give th e population in

1 1 1 th e th e e n d o f 9 , asterisk denoting parishes , and those at h each section a re references to pages in t e text . )

A ddi e we ll is a m ining and m anufacturing village near th e West Calder . It was founded in 18 6 6 in connection with

- - O a ra fli n oil m m . il shale industry , and produces p , candles , and a onia (p 7 7 )

A u h n di o n l n o rse a re c e G e c . nny , burn Near it Greenlaw

o n e m th e of Barracks and Auchendinny House , at ti e residence “ h e t o f . Henry Mackenzie , Man Feeling

‘ B a le rn o is a paper - m aking centre in th e Water o f Leith

V m of of th e alley , and a ter inus a branch line Caledonian

. . 8 Railway (pp 4 ,

B la kb a ll o n th e of c , western outskirts Edinburgh and close t ra i c rook o th e northern base of Corsto rphine Hill . C g Castle th e near by was occupied by Constable publisher , and Francis , ff Lord Je rey .

B o n n y rig g ( 2 9 5 5 ) is a police burgh with a station o n the

Edinburgh to Peebles branch o f th e North British Railway . Many o f its inhabitants a re em ployed in neighbouring coal m ines

f . . 6 6 and in a local carpet actory (pp 4 , 9 ,

18 6 MIDLOTHIAN

Corstorphine Hill and built o n a sunny Slope it has m any a ttra c f th e th e tions as a place o residence . I n eighteenth century virtues of a sulphurous spring m ade it a fashionable watering

“ ” ’ - - - o f th e place . Rest and b e thankful o n the east ridge hill com m ands a fi n e view o f Edinburgh and th e shores o f the Forth .

. 2 2 0 6 10 1 1 1 1 12 0 1 (pp , 3 , 3 , , 0 3 , 0 , , 5 6 ,

C o u s la n d o ld th e o f , an villag e near eastern boundary th e S m th e o f . county , was burned by o erset after battle Pinkie

m m . Portland ce ent is ade near by . (p

Cra i m illa r Du ddin ston m m g , near g Loch , is na ed fro the m o ld o n o f fa ous castle . It has sprung up recently account

o f S m the suitability its water f or brewing . everal larg e alting and brewing firm s have erected their plant close to the Suburban

m t . Railway . There is also a Crea ery and Margarine Fac ory

12 1 2 x . (pp 64 . 6 5 . 9 4. 7 . 9 . 3 0 )

r m n — C a o d v . p . 3 8 .

C u rri e is o n e of th e paper - m aking villages in the

of Th e o ld Water Leith valley . river is crossed by an fourteenth — “ o century bridge , which figures in l cal proverbial lore as deep

. . 6 8 1 10 1 as Currie brig (PP 5 3 , , 9 9 , , 5 5 , D a lkeith ( 7 0 19 )is built o n th e tongue of land between the

North and th e South Esk just above their junction . It is the m arket - town f or a rich agricultural district and has a Corn

m - m Exchange with weekly arkets , flour ills , a foundry , a brewery , and rope , brush , and carpet factories . Dalkeith Palace , residence

O o f to h th t e . e f the Duke Buccleuch , is close town It was head

o f o f S 16 quarters General Monk when Governor cotland , 5 4

1 . 1 1 12 2 1 1 1 1 6 6 0 (pp . 7 , 6 6 , 6 9 , 0 3 , , 49 , 5 3 , 5 7 , 6 0 , — l CIJ ll - dur m E a s t C a de r 2 8 . oi e ( 7 Gael , a wooded strea

th of h m m stands near e banks t e Al ond . It has li estone

1 quarries . (p .

E di b u r h f o r th e n g Beautiful situation , city w enjoys natural advantages such as f e towns can boast . Built

18 8 MIDLOTHIAN

th e upon various ridges and slopes and in intervening valleys , the

n ot town is only picturesque in appearance but also airy , well

- h e . to t ventilated , easily drained , and healthy Its nearness sea and to a productive c o a lfi eld g ives excellent facilities f o r m anu

m m : m o factures and co erce its educational advantag es , its i p rtance th e m o o f th e as etrop lis country , and its historical associations ,

m th e o f u m co bined with beauty its nat ral surrounding s , ake it a favourite place o f residence .

G ra s s m a rket u , E dinb rg h

Edinburgh grew up as a huddle o f houses o n th e long eastern

or of o n m o f slope tail the Castle Rock , which so e sort fortification m ust have existed from th e earliest ti m es ; and walls were built at

o T diff erent dates to enclose and guard th e t wn . The Old own

o f th e th e La wn m a rket th e S consisted Castle Hill , , High treet,

th e Neth erb ow th e o ff to and , with closes leading right and th e e n d o f left down th e slopes o f th e ridge . At other the Royal Mile from th e Castle stood Holyrood Abbey and under its shelter

19 0 MIDLOTHIAN

to Morningside and Newington and even the rise beyond . Great extensions have also taken place to th e east towards Portobello to th e S and west towards lateford and Corstorphine . m Edinburgh is re arkably well supplied with open spaces , and f the extent o th e town is therefore m uch g reater than the num ber

of m o ne to its population ig ht lead suppose . Princes Street Og S th e Gardens , een treet Gardens , Royal Botanic Garden and th e m th e ’ A , th e L k th e P k rboretu Meadows and in s , King s ar ,

Old e i v e s Q uadrangl , E dinburg h U n r ity

th e th e Braids and Blackford Hill , and various city parks along with num erous private grounds m ake up a very considerable f portion o the city area . Th e old University occupied the site o f th e Church of St Mary ’ th e th e o f Da rn le s m 1 6 in Fields , scene y urder in 5 7 ; and was founded under a charter o f Ja m es VI Th e present edifice was begun in 17 8 9 and po rtions o f th e quadrangle were built at m Th e m various ti m es to th e designs o f Ada and Playfair . ain CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 19 1 f ront faces o n to South Bridge Street and the opening up of Cham bers Street has given oppo rtunity to i m prove the northern

Th e of G ra ec o - aspect . general style the architecture is Italian o n both th e external and th e interior view of th e quadrangle the buildings a re dignified and i m pressive and th e lofty dom e

th e m th e u o f " over entrance , sur ounted by gilded fig re outh

F e tt e s C o ll e ge

’ - di sta n tdviewo f as a torch bearer , is a conspicuous feature in a th e city .

Th e S n w o f Medical chool o occupies a separate pile buildings ,

18 8 0 th e opened in , in Teviot Place and Meadow Walk , where

m two a re classroo s , arranged around quadrangles , thoroughly

f o r th e New equipped instructional purposes . Adjoining Building s ’ a re th e m th e S th e Music Classroo , tudents Union , and University

th e m M c Ewa n f m M . P f or Hall , last gifted by Mr Willia , or erly . 19 2 MIDLOTHIAN

o n e o f th e n w city divisions . A e Engineering departm ent has also m been set up in Infir ary Street .

Close to th e University in Cham bers Street is the - Royal S m m V cottish Museu , a handso e building in enetian Renaissance th e of style , foundation stone which was laid by Prince Albert in 1 Th fi n 8 6 1. e m e Museu has a Natural History collection , an industrial departm ent with speci m ens o f raw m aterials and m anu f a c tu red products in various stag es illustrating all the m ore m of th e i portant industries country , and Egyptian , g eolog ical ,

educational , and other sections . I m po rtant as aff ording a m ple scope f o r clinical teaching to

of th e m m o f students University , and notable as a onu ent private

o m charity , t h e R yal Infir ary in Lauriston deserves Special m ention . Unpardonable blunders were com m itted by the authorities o f ’ m th e No r to th e Edinburg h when they per itted Loch be drained ,

to b e th e th e artificial Mound heaped up in dried basin , and

th e railway to be constructed through the valley . But best has

f o r Th e been done to m ake up these m istakes . Mound has be en digni fied by the erection upon it o f th e fine D o ric tem ple long

th e o f known as Royal Institution , with its colossal seated statue

n V . th e th (wee , I y e ictoria and sister building in onic st le , National

Th e of th e e o u t Gallery . sides valley have be n beautifully laid in gardens and along th e Northern esplanade has been placed a

o f m m m m th e line onu ents , chief a ong the being lofty Gothic spire canopying th e seated figure o f Si r Walter Scott and having r m cluste ed in its niches nu erous statuettes representing characters , m historical and i aginary , portrayed in his works . Ascending the Mound to reach th e Old Town we have o n o u r left the Bank o f — S o n o u r New th e cotland , right College United Free Church

Divinity Hall .

' Of th e schools wh o se f a m e has wo n f or Edinburgh a great

' o f th e th e reputation as a seat learning , oldest is Royal High

S o th e m m S o f th e f i n cho l , which as Gra ar c h ool town was ounded

19 4 MIDLOTHIAN

h e H t t M . ffi h e f . o Law Courts Exchequer O ce , and libraries ’ th e Advoc a tes Lib ra r o n e o f certain legal fraternities , including y , fi ve in th e United Kingdom po ssessing th e right to a copy o f every

a re th e book published in this country . Near at hand M idlothian C o unty Buildings ; and o n th e o pposite side of th e High Street the Municipal or City Cha m bers a re ranged round three sides of a

o n th e o r o f quadrangle , while fourth southern side is a screen

G e s c r yfriar C h ur h , E dinburg h seven archways covered over by a platfo rm with ornam ental

re ffi th e balustrade and vases . Within a public o ces and Council m ” Cha ber where th e Fathers o f th e City m eet in conclave .

’ I EI n Greyfriars Churchyard took place th e signing o f th e

o 16 8 th e m m th e National C venant in 3 , o entous step in rebellion ’ m of th e against Charles I s ecclesiastical policy . Here also any m o artyred C venanters were buried . CHIEF TOWNS AND V ILLAGES 19 5

On th e Castle H ill stands a handsom e Gothic building with a — th e m o f th e G m th e lofty spire, eeting place eneral Asse bl y — f S of o . . 8 10 highest Court the Church cotland (pp 4 , 5 , 7 , , ,

H I I 2 6 8 0 8 1 6 6 6 6 . 5 . 7 . 0 . 3 7 . 4 . 4 . 5 . 5 3 . 5 4 . 5 7 . 5 . 6 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 .

6 1 1 7 . 6 8 . 6 9 . 7 0 . 7 . 8 . 8 7 . 9 4 .

16 16 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 6 1 4, 6 , 6 7 , 6 8 , 7 0 , 7 , 7 4 , 7 , 8 0 ,

G ilm erto n 0 0 s ea - occupies a ridge , 4 feet above level ,

o - m wh o f m o f . ur iles south east Edinburgh Gil erton carters , at o n e m th e m m ti e supplied city with coal and li e , were a nu erous “ ”

o f th e . body , whose Play was an annual event note in locality

o u t o f th e m A cave hewn rock by a blacks ith , Georg e Paterson , wh o lived in it with his fam ily about th e beg inning o f th e

to b e . Co a l eighteenth century , used considered a g reat curiosity

m r h . a e t e . 6 and iron ines worked in neighbourhood (PP 4 , 7 4 ,

I

G ore b ridg e is situated in th e heart o f th e Midlothian

th e of Coalfield , near collieries Arniston , Dal h ousie , Newbattle , Vo rie and g . At Stobs Mill th e first g unpo wder factory in S 1 . 1 cotland was opened in 7 9 3 (pp . 9 ,

G ra n ton o n th e of m , a busy port Firth Forth three iles

- - w of o f n o . north north west Edinburgh , which it is a part

. 0 1 I 6 (pp 4 . 3 7 . 4 . 4 . 5 3 . 7 0 . 7 9 . 8 4 . 5 ) — I n ere s k I nbbi r- ui e o f th e v . s Gael g , confluence ” water - occupies a slope leading up to th e l o fty right bank o f th e m m m Esk about half a ile fro its outh . Its pleasant situation and healthy cli m ate have attracted residents ever since Rom an ti m es ;

m l - T o d . h e and it has any picturesque fashioned houses church ,

o n th e o f th e m m th e o of o n e site Ro an Praetoriu , is success r built

th e of wa s soon after introduction Christianity , which preached in

t m m . 6 10 8 by George Wishar just before his artyrdo . (pp 9 , 9 9 , ,

1 1 1 0 9 , 6 , — 13 2 19 6 MIDLOTHIAN

n i e r G re e o n th e o f o f Ju p n , hig h left bank the Water

e fi ve m - o f L ith , and a half iles south west Edinburgh , contains

- m o f . m any villas Edinburgh business people A paper ill , a flour

m two ff - m m m to th e ill , and snu ills g ive e ploy ent inhabitants , and

re two th e o . . 6 8 0 there a g olf courses in neighb urhood (pp , 7 ,

’ S i r W e S c o s o t e s s alt r tt C t ag , La wade

L a s s wa de 18 6 6 a police burg h since , is a quaintly irregular village scattered along th e hollow and th e steep banks o f

th e . m Esk , here crossed by a bridg e Its ro antic situation supplied som e o f th e details in th e descripti o n o f G a n derc leug h in the Th S Ta les of my La n dlord . e thatched cottage in which cott lived

m 1 8 to 18 0 h e fro 7 9 4 , and where was visited by Wordsworth , is

19 8 MIDLOTHIAN

O o f havin g been built by French supporters f Mary Lorraine , wh o m g T beca e O een Regent in 15 5 4 . h e Links still show traces o f th e t the earthworks thrown up by opposing Protestant par y , — th e 1 1 m when town was besieged in 5 5 9 6 0 . In 6 5 0 Cro well o f built the citadel Leith , long since destroyed .

th e m o Besides work connected with its i portant harb ur ,

a re o n - m - m various industries carried , as saw illing , flour illing ,

m o f - engineering , brewing , distilling , anufacture cattle feeding

- ff m m . stu s and che icals , rope twine and sail aking , and coopering

1 2 2 1 (pp 4 . 5 , . 3 7 . 7 0 . 8 . 8 3 . 8 4 . 8 5 .

” L ib e rton was called the leper town from a hospital

o which once stood at Upper Liberton . The village is built n th e top o f a ridg e 3 5 6 feet above s ea - level abo ut two and a

m - of half iles south east Edinburgh , and the parish church with

- th e its four pinnacled tower is a conspicuous object in landscape . Reuben Butler in th e Hea rt of Midlotbi a n was school m aster o f fi n e O m ff Liberton , and a ld baronial ansion , Pe er Mill , in the ” th of Du m b ied k es Th e o f th e vicinity was e prototype y . nuns Sc ien nes were accustom ed to m ake an annual procession to th e

o f St m m well Catherine at Liberton , a bitu inous spring for erly fi r m m uch resorted to by persons s u e i ng fro skin diseases . The ’ stem Puritans of Crom well s arm y destroyed the shrine as a

Th n d o f t n place o f idolatry . e eastern e h e ridge o which Liberton

m 12 stands is occupied by Craig illar Castle . (PP. 5 3 , 5 ,

L o a n h e a d 8 18 8 m (3 4 3 ) a police burgh since 4 , is a ining and m anufacturing town half a m ile from th e left bank o f the

k o n th e G le nc orse North Es . It has a station Roslin and branch

T e m of th e North British Railway . h inhabitants a re ostly engaged

- m m . . 6 6 in ining and paper aking (pp 9 , 7 4 , 7 ,

M idc a lde r (3 is situated o n th e south bank o f Al m ond i Water near th e junction with L n h o u se and M u ries to n Burns . m m O th e o il o E ploy ent is btained in , paper , and g unp wder works ;

200 MIDLOTHIAN

’ a re o ne m and fairs held twice a year , Ca ther Fair at ti e having m o Th been an i p rtant fixture f o r th e surrounding district . e

Parish Church was founded early in th e thirteenth century .

th e o f o ld Calder House , seat Lord Torphichen , is a very building

S o o f with walls seven feet thick . pottiswoode , Archbish p

St o f th e o f S Andrews and historian C h urch cotland , was a f t h e . 1 12 2 1 1 o . 6 16 native village (pp 4 , 9 , , 5 5 , ,

M u s s e lb u rg h th e term inus o f a branch o f th e m m North British Railway , six iles east fro Edinburg h , is a parlia m entary burgh situated m ainly o n th e right bank o f the — Esk but having vari o us outlying suburbs Fisherrow o n th e oppo site bank o f th e river ; Mag dalen Bridg e at th e m outh o f

B u rdie h ou se m to th e o ld Burn , a ile west ; Newbigg ing , an village o f o n e long street o n th e south side o f th e tow n ; and

Leven h a ll th e n f th Th e at east e d o e Links . Links have long

- m f o r . th e been fa ous archery , golf, and horse racing At town e n d of th e Links once stood an ancient chapel and a herm itage

to f th e o dedicated Our Lady o Loretto . Near site is a b arding school which is conducted o n English lines and which has attained

Th e o f a considerable reputation . villa Loretto was once occupied

o f th e th e f o r by Lord Clive . Much land round town is used

m f o r m . arket g ardens , which its fertility akes it specially suitable ’

- A g ood m any o f th e inhabitants work in neighbouring coal pits .

a re - o il- n et There also paper works , breweries , crushing works , ,

f m . m rope , and wire factories , and lour ills Musselburgh was na ed “ ” m m ( . 1 6 6 honest toun fro its otto pp 9 , 3 7 , 43 , ,

1 1 2 5 9 , 6 ,

N e w Cra i g h a llis a large m ining village o n th e boundary N wh o f Liberton and Inveresk parishes with a station at e a iles o n th e Musselburg h branch of th e North British Railway .

N e wh a v e n o n th e o f two , a fishing village Firth Forth ,

m o f . . 0 1 iles north Edinburgh (pp 4 , 4 , 4 , 7 9 ,

202 MIDLOTHIAN

— " P e ic u ik 2 6 en - - c d th e o f o n ( 7 3 ) Celtic p y g , hill the cucko stands 6 0 0 feet above sea - level o n th e left bank o f the North Esk te n m o f th m iles south Edinburgh . It is e ter inus o f a branch o f th e m line North British Railway , and is also served by Po athorn

G len c o rse o n and stations other branches . It has a suburb , f o 1 . o n Kirkhill , with a population 5 7 Penicuik depends chiefly th e - m paper aking industry though it has also an iron foundry . Many of th e em ployees of nei g h bouring collieries reside in th e

- m o 1 a re town . Paper aking was begun here ab ut 7 0 9 and there

m Va lle fi eld Low at present three ills y , , and Bank Mills , belonging to S o n e Es k m ill to Messrs Cowan ons ; and , , belonging

h o f V l fi l Messrs Brown Co . In t e grounds a ley e d a m onum ent com m em orates th e connection o f th e town with th e Napoleonic

m 18 10 to 18 1 Va lle fi eld Esk m ill wars . Fro 4 y Mill and were

f o r 6 0 0 0 o f 0 0 o f occupied as barracks French prisoners war , 3 h e m m m t . who died , and were buried near where onu ent stands Th e vicinity of the town presents a wonderful variety of landscape from th e bare slopes o f Ca rn eth y and Scald Law to th e deep ‘ th ic kly wooded gorge o f the Esk and th e well - cultivated plains to

th e . fi ne north and east Penicuik House , a Grecian building

1 6 1 18 n ow erected in 7 , was burned in 9 9 and stands a roofless m o n ruin in its picturesquely ro antic grounds . An obelisk a height o n th e estate com m em orates th e friendship o f its owners

m of Tba Gen tle with Allan Ra say , the scenes whose pastoral play ,

Sbe berd i n th e . . 2 8 6 6 8 6 p , are laid neighbourhood (pp , 3 5 , 4, , 9 ,

P ortob e llo is n ow included m unicipally as o n e o f th e

fi n e o f wards o f Edinburg h . Its stretch level sand has long b ed o f m ade th e town a favourite res o rt . A valuable clay has

to given rise thriving brick , tile , and earthenware works ; and n Th e o th e m aking o f glass bottles is also carried o . railway stati n is an i m portant junction with num erous sidings f o r th e shunting

m o f . . 1 2 6 6 0 10 and arshalling trains (pp 3 7 , 4 , 4 , 5 4 , 4 , 9 , 7 , 9 ,

1 1 1 2 5 3 , 5 9 , 6 ,

204 MIDLOTHIAN

P u m h e rs ton o f p in Kirknewton parish , is a villag e recent

th e o il- th e growth and is engag ed in shale industry . It produces

o f o f m m h m largest annual output sulphate a onia in t e kingdo .

(p .

Ra th o is an ancient village about nine m iles south o f m west Edinburgh . It consists ainly o f o n e long street o n a hill

to 2 s ea - m th e rising 3 0 feet above level and pin g steeply to east . Th e Union Canal passes close to th e foot o f th e villag e . Market

gardens and stone quarries give em ploy m ent to th e inhabitants . ” Th e two th e o f place boasts poets ; Joseph Mitchell poet Ratho, wh o o f m 1 2 th R v m published a book poe s in 7 4 ; and e e . Willia — m r 1 2 1 6 1 o f Wilkie , parish iniste ( 7 5 7 ) and afterwards Professor

' St E i om a d h i m Natural Philosophy , Andrews , whose p g gained ,

th f th S m 1 e m o e . . 1 undeservedly , na e cottish Ho er (pp 3 , 3 , 5 3 ,

Re s ta lri old h g is an village in t e parish o f South Leith . Up to the ti m e o f th e Reform ation it was th e parish town and its

to St o f m church , dedicated Triduana , was long a place pilgri ag e . h fi n Th e T e e old Chapter House has recently been restored . barony o f Resta lri Sir f o r g was twice forfeited , first by Robert Log an his e th e m shar in Gowrie Conspiracy , and again by Lord Bal erino, “ ” ’ w - 2 1 h o ou t th e fi ve . . 2 0 2 6 0 was in Forty (pp , , 9 , 5 ,

Ro s e well m - o f , four iles south west Dalkeith , is inhabited chiefly by colliers . (p .

Ro s li n is about six and a half m iles south - west o f Edinburgh and has a station o n th e G le n c o rs e branch o f th e

th e o f th e North British Railway . Under protection powerful m fam ily o f St Clair it was once a place o f considerable i portance .

m o f th e o f th e Th e fa e its chapel and castle , and wild beauty g len , th e o f through which North Esk flows at this part its course ,

m . attract any visitors A gunpowder factory , a carpet factory ,

- m s m m . (pp . 1 6 paper ills , and coal pit supply e ploy ent 7 , 5 3 , 9 ,

2 10 10 1 18 I 0 ° 7 6 1 9 1 9 4 1 3 : 5 1 , 3 )

206 MIDLOTHIAN

S c o tl a n d

a cre s

M i dlo th i a n a c re s

i C m a ra ti v e a e s o f 2 F i . 1 o . . g . p r a Fig M idl o t h ian and all S c o t la t i o n land a ll S c o tl a nd

G o o f i F i g . 3 . r wt h p o pulati o n n M idl o t h i a n DIAGRAMS 207

157 Sc otl a n d 16 3 3 L a n a rk sh ire 10 S uth erl a n d

13 7 3 M i dl oth i a n f o o o f S c o t ks e F i . D e s o g . 4 n ity p pulati n all land , Lanar h ir , S t e a M i o t u h rl nd , dl h ian

(Ea rl) dot represen ts 10 persons)

F i o m t e e s e c e e s i n M o g . 5 . C para iv ar a und r r al idl t h ian DU E o n th e l m w This book is _ ast date sta p ed belo

M 2 3 1942

F o r m L - o

23 m