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EDISON's Warriors
EDISON’S WaRRIORS Christoph Cox Real security can only be attained in the long run through confusion. — Hilton Howell Railey, commander of the Army Experimental Station1 Simulantur quae non sunt. Quae sunt vero dissimulantur. — Motto of the 23rd Special Troops2 In “The Invisible Generation,” an experimental text from 1962, William S. Burroughs unveiled a proposal to unleash urban mayhem via the use of portable tape recorders. “Now consider the harm that can be done and has been done when recording and playback is expertly carried out in such a way that the people affected do not know what is happening,” he wrote. “Bands of irresponsible youths with tape recorders playing back traffic sounds that confuse motorists,” Burroughs gleefully imagined, could incite “riots and demonstrations to order.”3 Championing the productive (and destructive) powers of portable audio, “The Invisible Generation” is an emblematic text in the history of sound art and DJ culture. Yet, nearly 20 years earlier, Burroughs’s vision had already been conceived and deployed by none other than the United States Army, whose “ghost army,” the 23rd Special Troops, included several units dedicated to “sonic deception” and its results: enemy confusion and carnage.4 The first division in American Armed Forces history assigned exclusively to camouflage and deception, the 23rd was a military oddity. Despite the centrality of deception in the history of warfare from the Trojan Horse on, soldiers drilled in the West Point code of duty, honor, trust, and integrity were ill-suited to a life of simulation and dissimulation; and American officers tended to dismiss deceptive tactics as underhanded, a sign of weakness in every sense.5 It’s not surprising, then, that the 23rd consisted primarily of a population with an occupational predisposition to deception, invention, and fabrication: artists. -
Annual Report 2018
2018 Annual Report 4 A Message from the Chair 5 A Message from the Director & President 6 Remembering Keith L. Sachs 10 Collecting 16 Exhibiting & Conserving 22 Learning & Interpreting 26 Connecting & Collaborating 30 Building 34 Supporting 38 Volunteering & Staffing 42 Report of the Chief Financial Officer Front cover: The Philadelphia Assembled exhibition joined art and civic engagement. Initiated by artist Jeanne van Heeswijk and shaped by hundreds of collaborators, it told a story of radical community building and active resistance; this spread, clockwise from top left: 6 Keith L. Sachs (photograph by Elizabeth Leitzell); Blocks, Strips, Strings, and Half Squares, 2005, by Mary Lee Bendolph (Purchased with the Phoebe W. Haas fund for Costume and Textiles, and gift of the Souls Grown Deep Foundation from the William S. Arnett Collection, 2017-229-23); Delphi Art Club students at Traction Company; Rubens Peale’s From Nature in the Garden (1856) was among the works displayed at the 2018 Philadelphia Antiques and Art Show; the North Vaulted Walkway will open in spring 2019 (architectural rendering by Gehry Partners, LLP and KXL); back cover: Schleissheim (detail), 1881, by J. Frank Currier (Purchased with funds contributed by Dr. Salvatore 10 22 M. Valenti, 2017-151-1) 30 34 A Message from the Chair A Message from the As I observe the progress of our Core Project, I am keenly aware of the enormity of the undertaking and its importance to the Museum’s future. Director & President It will be transformative. It will not only expand our exhibition space, but also enhance our opportunities for community outreach. -
Fashion Photography and the Museum by Jordan Macinnis A
In and Out of Fashion: Fashion Photography and the Museum by Jordan MacInnis A thesis presented to the Ontario College of Art & Design in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Fine Arts in Criticism and Curatorial Practice Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2011 © Jordan MacInnis 2011 Author’s Declaration I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this thesis. This is a true copy of the thesis, including any required final revisions, as accepted by my examiners. I authorize OCAD University to lend this thesis to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my thesis may be made electronically available to the public. I further authorize OCAD University to reproduce this thesis by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. Signature . Date . ii In and Out of Fashion: Fashion Photography and the Museum Master of Fine Arts, 2011 Jordan MacInnis Criticism & Curatorial Practice Ontario College of Art & Design University Abstract The past two decades have witnessed an increase in exhibitions of fashion photography in major international museums. This indicates not only the museum’s burgeoning interest in other cultural forms but the acceptance of fashion photography into specific art contexts. This thesis examines two recent exhibitions of contemporary fashion photography: “Fashioning Fiction in Photography Since 1990” at the Museum of Modern Art (April 16- June 28, 2004), the first exhibition of fashion photography at a major North American museum of art, and “Weird Beauty: Fashion Photography Now” at the International Center of Photography (January 16, 2009-May 3, 2009). -
Calvin Klein
MARKET footwear, swimwear, jewelry, watches, outerwear, its confdently minimal "heroin chic" aesthetic. One of the most iconic names in the fashion handbags, small leather goods, and home Current creative directors Francisco Costa and industry is Calvin Klein. Born in the Bronx, furnishings (including furniture). Italo Zucchelli took over women and men's design New York, the designer became known for a duties in 2003 and 2004, and have continued to minimalistic approach that sparked a sharp shift ACHIEVEMENTS develop Calvin Klein's aesthetic of confdence, towards streamlined clothes for women in the Amongst the many accolades received by Calvin understatement, and perfected minimalist tailoring. 1970s. From his humble beginnings, Calvin Klein Klein over the years are: Still one of the highlights of Fashion Month, Calvin managed to create an award-winning brand with l Coty Award - 1973,1974,1975 Klein Collection is as directional and aspirational multiple sub-divisions -- womenswear, underwear, l Council of Fashion Designers of America Award as ever. perfumes, jeans and cosmetics, among them -- and - 1982,1983,1986 a reputation for provocative advertisements. l CDFA (Council for Fashion Designers of PRODUCTS Calvin Klein, Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of America) award - 1993 The Calvin Klein Collection’s SS16 show was one PVH Corp., is one of the leading fashion design l America's Best Designer of 1993 Award. steeped in nostalgia. Their current obsession with and marketing studios in the world. It designs and the early ’90s is manifested in the red-hot slip markets women’s and men’s designer collection HISTORY dress trend of this season. -
Ghost Army Generic Release
New Documentary Reveals the Amazing Story of the Secret WWII Unit That Duped Hitler’s Army — With Rubber Tanks, Sound Effects and Multimedia Illusions War, deception and art come together in Rick Beyer’s documentary The Ghost Army, the astonishing true story of American G.I.s — many of whom would go on to have illustrious careers in art, design and fashion — who tricked the enemy with rubber tanks, sound effects, and carefully crafted illusions during the Second World War. The Ghost Army tells a remarkable story of a top-secret mission that was at once absurd, deadly and amazingly effective. An inflatable tank designed to fool German soldiers. Credit: National Archives In the summer of 1944, a handpicked group of G.I.s landed in France to conduct a special mission. Armed with truckloads of inflatable tanks, a massive collection of sound effects records, and more than a few tricks up their sleeves, their job was to create a traveling road show of deception on the battlefields of Europe, with the German Army as their audience. From Normandy to the Rhine, the 1100 men of the 23rd Headquarters Special Troops, known as the Ghost Army, conjured up phony convoys, phantom divisions, and make-believe headquarters to fool the enemy about the strength and location of American units. Every move they made was top secret and their story was hushed up for decades after the war’s end. Each deception required that they impersonate a different (and vastly larger) U.S. unit. Like actors in a repertory theater, they would mount an ever-changing multimedia show tailored to each deception. -
Newyork-Presbyterian Hospital Annual Report
Letters from Home 2006-2007 Annual Report NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL Important Telephone Numbers THE ALLEN PAVILION OF NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL/ WEILL CORNELL MEDICAL CENTER General Information (212) 932-4000 Patient Information (212) 932-4300 General Information (212) 746-5454 Admitting (212) 932-5079 Patient Information (212) 746-5000 Emergency Department (212) 932-4245 Admitting (212) 746-4250 Patient Services (212) 932-4321 Ambulance Services Dispatcher (212) 472-2222 Development (212) 821-0500 Emergency Department NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL/ Adult (212) 746-5050 COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY MEDICAL CENTER Pediatric (212) 746-3300 General Information (212) 305-2500 Psychiatry (212) 746-0711 Patient Information (212) 305-3101 Human Resources (212) 746-1409 Admitting Marketing (212) 585-6800 Main Reception (212) 305-7091 NewYork-Presbyterian Sloane Hospital for Women (212) 342-1759 Healthcare System (212) 746-3577 Ambulance Services Dispatcher (212) 305-9999 Patient Services (212) 746-4293 Development (212) 342-0799 Physician Referral Service (800) 822-2694 Emergency Department Psychiatry, Payne Whitney Manhattan Adult (212) 305-6204 Referrals and Evaluation (888) 694-5700 Pediatric (212) 305-6628 General Information (212) 746-5700 Psychiatry (212) 305-6587 Public Affairs (212) 821-0560 Human Resources (212) 305-5625 Marketing (212) 821-0634 WESTCHESTER DIVISION OF NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN HOSPITAL Patient Services (212) 305-5904 Physician Referral Service (877) NYP-WELL General Information (914) 682-9100 Public Affairs (212) 305-5587 Payne Whitney Westchester Referrals and Evaluation (888) 694-5700 MORGAN STANLEY CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL Table of Contents OF NEWYORK-PRESBYTERIAN Physician Referral (800) 245-KIDS Letters from Home — 2 General Information (212) 305-KIDS Patient Information (212) 305-3101 Noteworthy — 24 Admitting (212) 305-3388 Leadership Report — 26 Emergency Department (212) 305-6628 Facts and Financials — 31 Dr. -
Translating the Fashion Story: Analyzing Fashion Captions in Two Women's Magazines Ehimwenma O
Louisiana State University LSU Digital Commons LSU Master's Theses Graduate School 2013 Translating the fashion story: analyzing fashion captions in two women's magazines Ehimwenma O. Vosper-Woghiren Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses Part of the Human Ecology Commons Recommended Citation Vosper-Woghiren, Ehimwenma O., "Translating the fashion story: analyzing fashion captions in two women's magazines" (2013). LSU Master's Theses. 831. https://digitalcommons.lsu.edu/gradschool_theses/831 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at LSU Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in LSU Master's Theses by an authorized graduate school editor of LSU Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. TRANSLATING THE FASHION STORY: ANALYZING FASHION CAPTIONS IN TWO WOMEN’S FASHION MAGAZINES A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of the Louisiana State University and Agricultural and Mechanical College in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Science in School of Human Ecology Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising by Ehimwenma ‘Yuwa’ Vosper-Woghiren B.A., Loyola University New Orleans, 2004 December 2013 © 2013 Copyright Ehimwenma Vosper-Woghiren All Rights Reserved ii I would like to dedicate my thesis to my grandfather, the late Joseph Henry Tyler, Sr. Throughout my life, my grandfather always stressed the importance of looking your best despite your social status. Growing up in the rural and segregated South, my grandfather did not have many opportunities. -
Have Stealthily Built One of the Most Innovative Department Store
Fashion. Beauty. Business. SLIM VS. AN ACTIVE PARIS, FINI SLOUCHY WORLD A look at the final OCT 2015 With a looser suit From boutique fitness days of the Paris No. 2 silhouette bubbling to the latest in textiles Collections, which up, men’s wear and Ones to Watch, a included Chanel, designers and retailers look at the booming Louis Vuitton, Miu are taking sides. activewear market. Miu and more. M Agenda, p. 32 In Focus, p. 22 Features, p. 48 THE QUIET GIANTS THE QUIET GIANTS The Nordstroms — Jamie, Pete, Erik and Blake — have stealthily built one of the most innovative department store retailers around, and they’re aiming for even bigger things. “This [the slouchy suit] is dangerous.” suit] is dangerous.” “This [the slouchy JOSEPH ABBOUD US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 Edward Nardoza EDITOR IN CHIEF Pete Born EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY Bridget Foley EXECUTIVE EDITOR James Fallon The EDITOR Robb Rice GROUP DESIGN DIRECTOR Features John B. Fairchild 1927 — 2015 Quiet Giants 42 MANAGING EDITOR Peter Sadera Erik, Pete, Blake and Jamie MANAGING EDITOR, Dianne M. Pogoda Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Cotton Incorporated. © 2015 Cotton Incorporated. Cotton FASHION/SPECIAL REPORTS Nordstrom have stealthily built EUROPEAN EDITOR Miles Socha DEPUTY MANAGING EDITOR Evan Clark one of the most innovative NEWS DIRECTOR Lisa Lockwood DEPUTY EDITOR, DATA AND ANALYSIS Arthur Zaczkiewicz department store retailers DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR Donna Heiderstadt SITTINGS DIRECTOR Alex Badia around, and they’re aiming for SENIOR EDITOR, RETAIL David Moin SENIOR EDITOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS, Arthur Friedman TEXTILES & TRADE even bigger things. -
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA V PRAZE Semiotics and Fashion Studies
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA V PRAZE FAKULTA HUMANITNÍCH STUDIÍ Katedra elektronicke kultury a semiotiky Mgr. Daria Mikerina Semiotics and Fashion Studies: Limits and possibilities of a systemic approach to contemporary fashion Diplomová práce Vedoucí práce: doc. Mgr. Benedetta Zaccarello, Ph.D. et Ph.D. Praha 2016 Prohlášení Prohlašuji, že jsem práci vypracoval/a samostatně. Všechny použite prameny a literatura byly řádně citovány. Práce nebyla využita k získání jineho nebo stejneho titulu. V Praze dne 08. 1. 2016 Mgr. Daria Mikerina …............................................ Acknowledgement I would like to thank my supervisor, doc. Mgr. Benedetta Zaccarello, Ph.D. et Ph.D. for guidance, encouragement, advice and support. I would also like to thank my friend J. Christian Odehnal for proofreading the thesis and continued support. Table of Contents Introduction ..................................................................................................................... 1 Chapter 1: The concept of system in semiotics. Fashion as an open and dynamic system ….................................................................. 7 Linguistic system according to Saussure ● The role of the system in structuralism ● Cultural systems ● The place of language in non-linguistic systems ● Typology of systems in semiotics ● Systems and codes ● Fashion as open and dynamic system ● The critique of structure and system Chapter 2: How fashion is produced. The phenomenon of named signifieds in Barthes' Fashion System …....................... 15 Part I. Finding a new methodology. “Fashion is nothing except what it is said to be” ….......................................................... 15 Sociology of fashion and semiology of fashion ● Dress and dressing. Fashion as “a langue without parole” ● Clothing and fashion ● Is dress an index? ● Semiology and its relation to other ways of analysis of fashion ●“To accept a simplification in all its openness” ● To describe fashion as a system we need to modify it ● Research object ● The necessity of “translation” Part II. -
Style Discourse in a Makeover Show and Fashion Consumption
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by The University of Utah: J. Willard Marriott Digital Library HOW TO HAVE STYLE: STYLE DISCOURSE IN A MAKEOVER SHOW AND FASHION CONSUMPTION by Hyun Jeong Min A dissertation submitted to the faculty of The University of Utah in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy David Eccles School of Business The University of Utah August 2011 Copyright © Hyun Jeong Min 2011 All Rights Reserved The University of Utah Graduate School STATEMENT OF DISSERTATION APPROVAL The dissertation of Hyun Jeong Min has been approved by the following supervisory committee members: Debra Scammon , Chair June 9, 2011 Date Approved Teresa Pavia , Member June 13, 2011 Date Approved Arul Mishra , Member June 9, 2011 Date Approved Kristin Cloyes , Member Date Approved Jeff Murray , Member Date Approved and by William Hesterly , Associate Dean of the David Eccles School of Business and by Charles A. Wight, Dean of The Graduate School. ABSTRACT This dissertation is composed of three essays about style discourse in fashion consumption. For the first chapter I developed a conceptual model to unravel the political process of meaning making between marketers and consumers. In particular, I draw on the concepts in the discourse theory of Laclau and Mouffe to develop the conceptual model to analyze the data of Chapter 2 and 3. The second chapter explores the mainstream discourse of having personal style with respect to fashion. For this second study, data have been collected from the TLC TV series What Not to Wear, an American reality television show that is based on a British Show of the same name. -
Effective Fashion Blogs and Their Impact on the Current Fashion Industry
Effective Fashion Blogs and Their Impact on the Current Fashion Industry Kristina Sedeke Master Thesis Media, Culture and Society Faculty of History, Communication and Art Erasmus University Rotterdam Student number: 363306, Email: [email protected] Supervisor: Dr. Payal Arora June 2012 Abstract: Despite the fact there is plenty of academic material, concerning with the use of social media and blogs in business, very little research has been done in the area of fashion blogosphere in sense of exploration the character of contemporary most popular/efficient blogs and their potential use in fashion marketing and brand management. This thesis firstly summarizes the emergence and current nature of social media and their impact on business communication in general and subsequently in fashion industry. In order to provide proper understanding of current fashion industry the nature, basis principles of operating and challenges are explained as well as its recent transformation due to emergence of Web 2.0 and ICT´s, and sociocultural changes. In the second part of the literature review the position and potential use of social media and especially blogs in fashion industry is demonstrated, including the explanation of the lack of proper research concerning this problematic, and relevance of this research. The central aim of this research is summarized into general Research Question; “What determines an effective blog in contemporary fashion blogosphere?”, and further specified in three Sub-Questions, concerning identity and background of current popular bloggers, culture of spaces of their blogs and nature of actual or potential presence of public relations. Those areas are explored through inductive content analysis, which was chosen as an optimal methodology for this research. -
One of a Kind
Thursday, November 29 6:30 – 8:00 p.m. Receptions and viewings Presenters Robert Lee Morris, ONE OF A KIND 400 West Broadway Lisa Koenigsberg, conference director and president and founder, Hewitt National Design Awards, Cornejo was the award’s recipient in Nicolas Luchsinger, vice president, Retail Operations for the Robert Lee Morris, designer and acknowledged leader of the art 6:00 – 8:00 p.m. Reception and Selima Optique exclusive viewing of the Initiatives in Art and Culture; formerly, she served as advisor to the dean 2006. In May 2006 Zero + Maria Cornejo opened its second store in New Americas, Van Cleef & Arpels, Luchsinger has been with the Maison for jewelry movement; a design visionary who redefined fashion jewelry by INDIVIDUALITY, INTEGRITY, 59 Wooster Street for arts initiatives, and director, programs in the arts and adjunct York’s far-West Village neighborhood and in February 2009 moved to its nearly seven years, beginning as Director of the New York flagship and creating wearable art in sensuous, fluid, and organic forms. Having led his Maison's latest Mary McFadden: A Lifetime of flagship store/showroom/atelier at 33 Bleecker Street, New York. In Fall in professor of arts, NYU School of Continuing and Professional Studies. She the Heritage collection, which he established and now curates. He niche industry for the past 40 years, Morris still inspires and bridges the AND INNOVATION IN FASHION collections established the series of fashion conferences which explores fashion, 2010 Zero + Maria Cornejo opened its first store outside the New York currently oversees and coordinates the Maison’s eight internal boutiques worlds of fashion and art.