INSIDE: Truffle Hunting 2 Score Event Tickets 4 Tourin’ 6 Native Son: Nutella 7 Three Vineyards to Visit 8 Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government Turin’s Piazza San Carlo is Wine Country SPECIAL REPORT:TURIN PIEDMONT & ith a string of impressive vintages starting in 1995, Wthe winemakers of dream of Piedmont have experienced something of a renaissance. This has been true, not just for its favorite sons — Barolo and Barbaresco — but for many of the region’s wines, 70% of which are made from red grapes. Piedmont’s vineyards are concentrated in the Langhe and Monferrato hills. More than half of the 170,000 acres of vines have earned ’s prized D.O.C. (Denominazione di ITALYVolume 4, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com November 2005 Origine Controllata) label, a guarantee of a place name and production for- Ready, Set, Go to mula, awarded by the government. Some 800 Piedmontese vintners pro- the Winter Olympics duce Barolo and Barbaresco. Both are made from the highly tannic nebbiolo grape, which reportedly gets ess than three months remain already suffering from a lack of luxury its name from the fog (la nebbia) that before the opening ceremony of hotel rooms — there are just three often covers the hills here. The loca- L the 20th Olympic Winter Games 5-star and fourteen 4-star properties. tion where the grape is grown (weath- in Torino (February 10 to (See our review of Turin’s er, soil, landscape) determines what 26, 2006). If you’re interest- 4-star Grand Hotel Sitea on kind of wine it will become. ed in being a part of the page 7.) action, time is running out Barolo comes from the grapes grown to make your plans. Have no fear though, there in steep hills southwest of Alba. It ages Fortunately, all but a few are plenty of creative for at least three years with two years popular events still have options: spent in oak or chestnut barrels and tickets available and emerges with a garnet red color high- affordable airplane tickets can still be Turin: Pay Package Prices lighted by orange tones and produces snapped up. The biggest challenge last an intense, full-bodied flavor. minute Olympic travelers face is where If you’re intent on staying in Turin Barbaresco is the provenance of an to rest their heads after cheering on itself, your first step should be to check area northeast of the city, which has a gold-medal hopefuls. www.jumbograndieventi.it, which lists warmer and drier climate. These neb- available rooms around the city. At biolo grapes ripen earlier and create a Most of Turin’s 15,000 hotel rooms press time, the site had doubles at wine with less structure. Barbaresco were booked long ago by members of Turin’s 3-star Hotel Ferrucci for 209€ ages for a minimum of two years (at various Olympic committees and per night and doubles at the 1-star least one in the chestnut or oak barrel) delegations, as well as tour companies. Hotel Mobledar for 97€ per night. It is and has an intense ruby red color with Don’t even think about finding a high- unclear whether there is a minimum a full taste and velvety feel. end hotel room in the city; Turin was continued on page 3 continued on page 8 Piemonte means “foot of the mountains.” On the White Truff “It’s actually more like blood sport. Competition is fierce and se

f the world’s most sought after over raw veal, Tajarin (a type ging devices) in hand. But delicacies, the white truffle of Piedmontese pasta) and WHERE TO STAY that’s not all they take with O (tartufo bianco) of Alba is surely butter, steak, fried egg or HOTEL CASA PAVESI them. Here in Piedmont near the very top. Its nickname — cheese. Via IV Novembre, 4 (versus other areas of Italy “white diamond” — gives a hint to its Grinzane Cavour and France where pigs are price (this year about $375 per 100 There are five kinds of white (39) 0173 231149 used), dogs are the most grams) but not necessari- truffle of Alba, depending www.hotelcasapavesi.it trusted tools of truffle ly its appearance, which on the type of tree on whose hunters. Local trifolao claim is something like a root it grows. These truffles This 4-star gem, a stone’s throw they’re easier to train than lumpy potato. It is the grow on the roots of oak from the Grinzane Cavour Castle, pigs and less likely to eat unique taste — strong, with a hint poplar, linden, weeping is a cozy and charming place to their expensive finds. of garlic — and fragrant willow and vine stay, convenient to the truffle aroma that give this truffle trees. The tree action. It also makes a good base While all this might resem- high value. influences the for visiting local vineyards. The 12 ble a quaint countryside pic- color of the truffle, guest rooms feature claw foot ture — man and his dog Unlike black truffles, the white truffle anywhere from pink bathtubs, antiques and wrought traipsing through the forest should not be cooked. Instead, a small to a dusty brown, and iron beds, as well as stunning in search of white gold — amount of raw truffle is served shaved smell, for example, the views of the rolling hills. (by the way, there are a few 2 oak tree produces the most dozen female truffle hunters odorous truffle. The truffles grow from here) it’s not. It’s actually more like late August to January, with peak sea- blood sport. Competition is fierce and son between September and December. secrecy is paramount. Trifolao roam the forests at night in order to hide During this time, some 1,500 licensed their movements and also set up trifolao, truffle hunters, roam the forests decoys. Top notch hunting dogs have of the Langhe, Monferrato and Roero been poisoned and held for ransom. hills (only fenced areas are off limits), walking sticks (which double as dig- With all of the intrigue surrounding the search for truffles, it is usually diffi- cult to find a hunter who will demon- strate his passion. Brothers Giorgio and Natale Romagnolo, members of a five- generation-strong family of truffle hunters, have opened up their family home for visits in order to share their love of truffle hunting. (39-0141- 966568; www.lacasadeltrifulau.it)

Alba

Alba’s truffle market

Alba Alba’s truffle market Lord Byron kept a truffle on his Olympics continued from page 1 le Trail stay required. The site is continually According to propri- updated. etor Karen Lancaster, crecy is paramount. last-minute book- ” The easiest way to secure a 3-star hotel ing seems to be the in the city is to book through CoSport trend. “We have During white truffle season, Giorgio (877-45-RINGS; www.cosport.com) or processed 278 fami- and Natale and dogs Birba and Diana other travel companies, like lies and individuals take guests into the woods to show Select Italy (800-877-1755; so far. We have them how the dogs find the truffles www.selectitaly.com) or around 50 and signal their owners where to look. Ludus Tours (866-343- pending. After the hunt, the group returns to La 6133; www.ludus The Casa del Trifulau for some truffle tasting tours.com). Just be pre- demand and truffle-inspired conversation. pared for high prices. For has dou- example, Ludus offers six- bled in the Another must for any truffle tourist night hotel packages for last two traveling during October and early $2,700 to $3,900 per person. weeks. I get ten November is the month-long truffle requests a day,” she says. fair or Fiera Nazionale del Tartufo CoSport’s rooms are general- (800-828-8768) (www.fieradeltartufo.org) that has ly part of hospitality packages, been held in the medieval city of Alba which include a variety of ticket, meal Another source for finding available since 1929. The true heart of the fair is and transportation options. Their apartments is to go straight to the own- the courtyard of the Palazzo Maddalena, four-night package at the 3-star Best continued on page 4 where a truffle market is held. Truffle Western Crimea, for $8,453 per person, hunters put their freshly procured comes with coveted tickets to the dream of 3 white diamonds up for sale. Other men’s ice hockey gold medal game, the vendors sell other truffle products and figure skating gala, and the closing regional specialties. ceremony, plus cross country and ITALY alpine skiing. Other options allow you For serious truffle aficionados and to customize your event itinerary so Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief those with seriously deep pockets, the that you don’t get stuck sitting through

World Truffle Auction at the beautiful sports you don’t follow. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Castello di Grinzane Cavour is the high- Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher Design: Leaird Designs light of the truffle season. Depending Turin: Rent an Apartment www.leaird-designs.com on the harvest, a dozen or more truffles are auctioned off at the castle and Especially if you are Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. simultaneously at several locations traveling with a Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States around the world, with the proceeds group of three or and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- able PDF) costs $69 per year. Subscriptions include going to charity and the winning bid more people, it online access to back issues and regular e-mail updates. on the largest truffle inevitably break- might be more Three ways to subscribe: ing records and appearing in the press practical and cheap- 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, Washington, DC, 20016 worldwide. er to look for an 2. Call 1-877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 apartment in Turin, 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa The seventh annual auction took place rather than a hotel room. and Mastercard accepted) November 13 with bidders in London ItalyWinterGames.com represents 250 Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] and Hong Kong linked in by satellite. one- to three- bedroom apartments and Advertising opportunities are available. This year a 2 pound, 10 ounce white villas available during the games. 70% E-mail: [email protected] truffle sold for a record $111,000 to a of their rentals are in Turin. Their Copyright © 2005 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights consortium of Hong Kong buyers. prices start at 150€ per day, per person; Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide Those who are serious buyers can no minimum stay required. information that is accurate and reliable; however, inquire about attending next year’s Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that auction by visiting www.gowine.it may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com desk to “feed” his imagination. Olympics continued from page 1 Yet only 15% of the events have be to pay the price, you can ers themselves. Vacation Rentals By More Than Just Sports Owner (www.vrbo.com) currently lists seven rental properties in the Piedmont Watching world-class athletes that region, including two in Turin. Both have trained and carbo-loaded for Turin apartments sleep four; one rents years is bound to build up your for $5,000 during the games and the appetite. Mama Margaret and Friends other has Olympic rates available upon have anticipated such cravings, and request. Always do your homework in are offering pre- and post-Olympics securing a rental. (For a list packages that include of questions to ask see local wine tasting and Dream of Italy’s Special cooking classes. Prices Report: Villa Rentals/May- and details have yet to be June 2003 issue.) finalized. (800-557-0370; www.italycook- You may want to also ingschools.com)

check Craigslist.org (click Torino2006.org Torino2006.org on ‘Milan’) or Athletes’ Village is ’s Olympic Village Cartan Tours offers anoth- Expatriates.com (must rent by month). If day duration of the games. er appetizing option in Alba. Spend six you’re in Italy, locals say to check the For example, a three-bedroom nights at 3-star hotel in Alba’s historic Sunday supplement of the newspaper apartment that sleeps six goes for center and combine your stay with a La Stampa for listings of Olympic between 5,000 and 10,000€. wine tasting seminar and an rentals. Also check the offerings at optional cooking class taught www.italywintergames.com by the chef for the Italian 4 Get Out of Town Olympic Committee. Packages Since Turin and the mountain include airfare from New York, With Olympic events spread out venues are surprisingly close to airport transfers and daily among the mountains and areas bor- France, you might even consider breakfast, beginning at $3,995 per dering the city of Turin, it certainly staying in a French resort, where the person. Packages for longer stays are isn’t a necessity to stay right in the city slopes won’t be closed for Olympic also available. (800-818-1998; and can actually be more convenient to events. Affordable accommodations www.cartan.com) stay in the mountain towns. may be found in the Rhône-Alpes resorts of Serre-Chevalier and Those traveling to Italy for the The most comprehensive listing is at Montgenèvre. Olympics can also take advantage of www.montagnedoc.it, where you will other major events taking place in Italy find housing options in major towns Again, you can also consult www.jum- at the same time. Women’s ready-to- hosting Olympic villages and events: bograndieventi.it, but at press time, it wear fashion shows in Milan start Bardonecchia, Sauze d’ and Sestriere. only listed accommodations in the February 18, 2006. Venice’s Carnevale towns Alessandria, Biella, Cuneo and celebration runs for two weeks, starting There are bed and breakfast options in Verbania, which are within traveling February 17. ski lodges and small inns, costing distance of the events, but are not in between 50 and 150€ per night based the mountains. Event Tickets on double occupancy, plus a 15€ booking fee per person. Also consider the small, charming About 60% of all of the event tickets Piedmont cities of Alba or Asti, have been sold. Yet only 15% of the An apartment may be the where you can visit historic events have been completely sold out, best option if you’re bring- towers and churches or so chances are, if you are willing to pay ing the whole family or indulge on truffles and Barolo the price, you can get into the events going over with a group of wine during your time away you really want to see. American ticket friends. Right now you can from the slopes and stadiums. buyers who want to secure tickets in only reserve apartments advance must go through CoSport, the through this site for the entire 17- Between 1861 and 1865, Turin was th en completely sold out, so chances are, if you are willing get into the events you really want to see. official ticket seller in the for ticket holders priced at $500.20, including taxes. U.S. (You can buy tickets and at Sestriere on-site in Turin in cars will be If you’re flying to Turin from London February, but pickings banned apart from or Paris, check out budget airline may be slim. CoSport will rare exceptions. easyJet, which flies from London’s also have an office in Check the CoSport Luton Airport and Paris’ Orly Airport Turin to sell its remaining Web site for trans- for 50 to 90€ roundtrip. (www.easyjet. ticket inventory.) portation informa- com) Anyone flying into Turin in the tion updates. winter should be aware that the airport CoSport offers both package and is sometimes closed by fog and planes individual ticket options, but Although you might consider may be diverted to Genoa. unless you absolutely can’t renting a car if you opt to stay live without attending one of near Alba or Asti, there is no The most direct way to reach down- the already sold-out events public parking near any of the town from Airport (like the ice hockey gold and venues. Turin has set up two is by bus. Buses depart every 30 to 45 bronze medal games and the railway lines, the Torino- minutes from the arrivals level, where women’s figure skating competi- and the Torino-Oulx-Bardonecchia- machines dispense tickets for 5€ each. tions), stick with individual tickets. The Modane that will run about 80 trains Stops along the way include the two packages don’t save you any money, daily to transport spectators quickly main train stations (Porta Nuova and and you will probably also end up and cheaply between venues. Porta Susa) and street in the city with tickets to low-demand events. center. From Porta Nuova, you can Additionally, there will be shuttle catch a train to the Piedmontese Ticket prices vary based on event buses traveling among the competition (Sestriere, Sauze d’Oulx, Cesana, demand; of the tickets that remain, the venues in Bardonecchia, Cesana San Sansicario, ) and French 5 figure skating events are the most Sicario, Pinerolo, , Sauze (Montgenevre, Briancon/Serre pricey, ranging from $286 to $588, d’Oulx and Sestriere. Find more trans- Chevalier) ski resorts. while tickets for curling, snowboard portation information, including bus and bobsleigh can still be had for and train schedules at www.montagne- The easiest way to get to Turin from under $60. doc.it another Italian city is by train. To give you an idea of train travel times: Milan If you have your heart set on attending By Plane, By Train is an hour and half from Turin, Venice either the opening or closing cere- is four hours and Rome is about seven monies, you will have to pay for the The best news may be that getting to hours. You can check schedules online privilege of a seat in Stadio Olympico. Turin from the United States is still rel- at www.trenitalia.it. You will pay an Remaining tickets for the opening cere- atively inexpensive. The nearest airport additional fee, but consider buying mony are $1,260; there are two cate- with non-stop flights from the U.S. is your train tickets here in the U.S. gories of tickets left for the closing cer- Milan Malpensa, about an hour-and-a- through Italia Rail (888-538-RAIL; emony, priced at $560 and $910. half from Turin. A roundtrip coach www.italiarail.com) before traveling to ticket between New York’s Italy. Transportation to the Venues John F. Kennedy Airport and Malpensa on —Kathy McCabe and In Turin public transport will be free Alitalia is currently Shauna Maher The best news may be that getting to Turin from the United States is still relatively inexpensive. he capital of the . News, Tips, Deals Hit Piedmont’s Olympic Slopes A tour of turin

iedmont’s stunning ski slopes will cer- Sestriere — In the 1930s, FIAT’s Giovanni for every passion P tainly take a starring role in the Winter Agnelli spearheaded efforts to build up the o matter what your interest, the fascinat- Olympics.The region boasts 53 ski town, which is Italy’s most modern ski Ning city of Turin seems to have something resorts, 800 miles of pistes and cable resort. Part of the Via Lattea (Milky Way) for everyone.A great way to see the city is cars and lifts with a capacity of 400,000 ski circuit, Sestriere offers 211 slopes, to take a tour — whether guided or do-it- people per hour.After seeing the games some veering into France. Come yourself — based on a central theme. Be on television, you just might be here for night skiing. Don’t sure to book ahead and request a tour in inspired to do some shush- overlook this place in the English. Here are some favorites: ing here yourself. Remem- summer; Sestriere is home to For Magic Lovers: Turin, ber that there’s more here than Europe’s largest 18-hole golf home to the Holy Shroud, just skiing.The traders and pilgrims course. Sestriere will house and according to legend, the who crossed the valleys since one of the Olympic villages as Holy Grail, is considered a city of magic. Find out all of Roman times left impres- well as skiing events. the spooky details on what sive structures and houses Visit: www.vialattea.it makes Turin a city of both of worship in their wake. Pragelato — This white and black magic on a two-and-a-half Many of the small villages hour tour led by Somewhere Tours.Meets at 6 breathtaking area, 50 have museums exploring Piazza Statuto at 9 p.m.,Thursday and miles from Turin,will host € the local history and Saturday. Price: 20 (39-011-6680580; Olympic cross country www.somewhere.it) handicrafts.And during Torino 2006.org Torino skiing and ski jumping.The the warmer months, there Sauze d’-Oulx, freestyle slope For Chocoholics: This mountain configuration are plenty of outdoor is a do-it-yourself tour, here creates consistently diversions, from golf to but when it comes to fresh snow and runs cater chocolate, how hard can that be? Turismo hiking to fishing. For more to beginners and experi- Torino’s ChocoPass offers 10 places to stop information, visit enced skiers alike. for a mouthwatering taste of one of the www.montagnedoc.it Pragelato is also popular city’s world-famous chocolate creations, such as gianduiotti (hazelnut and cocoa creations) Bardonecchia — Yo u for snowshoeing. Visit: Torino 2006.org Torino Prageleto and bicerin (a rich chocolate drink). Cost is might feel like you are in www.pragelatofondo.it and 10€ for a 24-hour pass or 15€ for a 48- France when you enter this alpine town, www..pragelato.to.it hour one.This pass can be purchased at since it is almost completely surrounded by Turismo Torino information points (39-011- Sauze d’Oulx — Known as “the balcony of the French border.The largest resort in 535181; www.turismotorino.org) the Alps,” this resort will host Olympic free- Piedmont’s Susa Valley hosts 30 ski lifts and style skiing.The Lago Nero chalet, designed by For Movie Buffs: Not only is Turin home to 150 km of runs – which will be used for the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, it has also Carlo Mollino in 1939, is considered a master- Olympic snowboarding.With four ski been a popular backdrop for numerous films, piece of 20th century Alpine architecture, schools, Bardonecchia is a great place for most notably, The Italian Job. Every Saturday and made Sauze d’Oulx a favorite destination beginners and families.Visit the hamlet of at 6 p.m,Turismo Torino conducts a guided of 20th century Piedmontese aristocracy. walking tour of the city, revealing where Mezelet to experience the ancient wood Head here in summer for horseback riding, various films were shot. Price: 6€ (39-011- carving tradition. fishing and tasting of the local cheeses and 535181; www.turismotorino.org) dairy products. For more on Turin, see Dream of Italy’s 1 € = $1.17 at press time December 2004/January 2005 issue. The Slow Food Movement was born in Piedmo and Events G A Piedmont Native: Get a Broader Perspective Nutella of Piedmont

erhaps the most The Nutella Web site iedmont’s Langhe Monferrato Roero P famous Piedmont (www.nutella.it) boasts a PTourism Consortium can make a trip to native is sitting in your thousand Nutella-based its corner of the region a memorable kitchen right now. Nutella, recipes, ranging from one. Catering to thrill-seekers and more that creamy, chocolate an“after-sport drink” to cautious connoisseurs alike, it offers about hazelnut spread loved the world sugar-filled breakfasts like “Corn a dozen ways to transcend typical travels, round, was born in the town of Flakes and Nutella.” But for ranging from adrenaline-packed half hour Credit: www.langhe.net Alba. Sure, you can identify its Italians, Nutella is more than just flights over castles and countryside to six- work with the help of a “judge” from the sweet taste blindfolded, but have an indispensable creamy spread. hour horse-drawn carriage rides that take National Truffle Study Centre who will you ever stopped to wonder who Embodying Freud’s pleasure princi- you back to the slower-paced days of teach you all you need to know about you have to thank for your guilty ple and even finding its way into Piedmont’s past. Piedmont’s underground treasures. Those pleasure? It faithfully does wonders Italian bedrooms, Nutella has Active adventurers can explore the hill- who already have a nose for truffles can for your crêpes and slices of bread, pushed the boundaries of Italy’s sides by mountain bike or take to the venture into the woods on an exciting so maybe it’s time to brush up on conservative and Catholic culture sky in a hot air balloon. There are also expert-led truffle hunt. your Nutella knowledge. for the past 40 years. a handful of options for guided explo- The seminars and guided tours run rations into Langhe and Roero culture, between 8 and 25€ per person, carriage 7 During World War II, Italian citizens For Americans, Nutella was a treat allowing you to sample bottles of Barolo and plane rides cost 60€ per person, and were subject to severe chocolate of a far-off land until 1983, when and Barbaresco at a wine-tasting seminar, the priciest option, the hot air balloon and sugar rations (500 grams a Nutella first hit shelves in the or explore Alba, the “city of 100 towers,” flights, are 210€ per person. For more month for children and only 100 northeast. We loved it so much with an expert guide. information call (39) 0173 362562 or grams for everyone else!). that we now have our own Nutella If you can’t get enough of Piedmont’s visit www.turismodoc.it Determined to sell some form of factory in Somerset, New Jersey. –S.M. treat at a decent price, candy Ever wonder just how much cuisine, put your discerning taste buds to maker Pietro Ferrero set out to Nutella is out there? If you were to invent a sweet afternoon snack line up the jars produced each Review: Grand Hotel Sitea that could be eaten with bread. He year, the distance would exceed decided to begin with a base of the circumference of the planet n February, the Olympic allowed us to stay an nocciole (hazelnuts) since they (almost 25,000 miles)! Iorganizing committee will unplanned extra night – were plentiful in the Piedmont call this 80-year-old land- because we were sick – region and unaffected by rations. Still, nothing compares to indulging mark hotel home for the even though the hotel was To this, he added what little in local specialties while on vaca- duration of the games. They booked solid.) The Sitea’s amounts of sugar and chocolate tion. So the next time you find couldn’t have chosen a restaurant offers that he could procure. yourself in between meals and place that better reflects some of Turin’s best cuisine, museums in Turin or Alba, stop into the very character of Turin itself; the Grand which also makes for great room-service His experiments gave birth to a local mercato to get your fix for Hotel Sitea is classic, understated, elegant in eating if you are a guest at the hotel. € Nutella’s ancestors, a paste first about 2 a jar. Because after all – an old-fashioned way. Although mostly cater- made in loaf form called Giandujot Che mondo sarebbe senza la ing to business travelers, the 4-star Sitea Via Carlo Alberto, 35 and later sold in jars as a spread- Nutella? – What would the world puts tourists in the center of shopping, (39) 011 5170171 able paste called Supercrema. In be without Nutella? museums and historic piazzas and palaces. www.sitea.thi.it 1964, his popular creation settled Like many Turin hotels, the Sitea has under- on the name Nutella, and has –Shauna Maher gone a makeover in the past few months Rates: Doubles start at 280€ per night, since gained a cult following adding a new façade and extra rooms. The with breakfast. Ask about special weekend responsible for its mythical status hard-working staff is extremely helpful. (They discounts. in Italian culture. nt and is now headquartered in the town of Bra. Vineyards continued from page 1

Cantine Marchesi Alfieri “They are wines with a balance of sweet, savory and spicy elements that tingle on the palate, their aromas like vapors that waft up into your brain and lodge themselves in your memory forever. Is that a little too much? Well, probably, but this is what nebbiolo does to people,” write Joseph Bastianach and David Lynch, authors of Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy.

As hard as it may be to believe, with (meaning “little sweet one”), which The following producers host visits the passion shown for nebbiolo, there ripens earlier than the other popular and wine tastings by appointment are other varietals grown in Piedmont. red grapes. It is considered the fruitiest (inquire about cost and driving The barbera grape accounts for about red and has a distinctive deep purple directions): 50% of the region’s production. Its color. There’s also the white moscato color and consistency can vary greatly. used in Asti’s sparkling wines, such as Another noteworthy red is dolcetto the familiar Asti Spumante. h

Cantine Marchesi Alfieri Sisters Emanuela,Antonella and Giovanna San Martino di Aziende Agricole Ceretto San Germano are the proud proprietors of Marchesi Cascina Castlet Brothers Bruno and Marcello Ceretto, known in the U.S. Alfieri, a wine estate, complete with a Baroque castle, Mariccia Borio, who took over the generations-old family as the “Barolo brothers,” have transformed one small steeped in Italian history. Among the more famous business over thirty years ago, is one of the few vineyard into a series of seven wine-growing estates Alfieri lords were the architect Benedetto, the poet female vintners in Piedmont. Most of the Cascina 8 throughout the Langhe, making it one of Piedmont’s Vittorio and the President of the Italian Senate, Cesare Castlet estate is devoted to barbera grapes, most noteworthy names. Alfieri. although moscato and cabernet sauvignon are also cultivated here. Ceretto produces 45,000 bottles of Barolo each year, More than half of the Alfieri vineyards are planted using only the grapes grown in their vineyards in La with Barbera grapes in order to produce the estate’s Critics like Castlet’s Monferrato Rosso Policalpo, a Morra, Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto. This last town is crown jewel, Barbera d’Asti, yielding 80,000 bottles a blend of barbera and cabernet sauvignon home to their Bricco Roche estate, where wine making year. Grignolino (used to make rosé wines), pinot noir grape, aged to result in a full wine with takes place in a state-of-the-art, and architecturally and cabernet sauvignon grapes grow on the rest of the hints of vanilla and spices. Castlet produces stunning, facility and where most of the public visits land. In all, the estate produces five labels. La Tota is a two Moscato wines. Wine guru Robert take place. (For more on modern art and architecture soft, well-structured Barbera d’Asti. Barbera d’Asti Parker has called the traditional one, “One of the most at Ceretto, see the July/August 2004 issue of Dream of Superiore is only produced in great vintage years and sensational, low alcohol, slightly sweet Moscatos I have Italy.) Bricco Rocche Barolo is the standard label, with aged for 10 years. Il Rosso dei Marchesi is a blend of ever tasted, this tropical fruit bomb of an aperitif wine Brunate Barolo and Prapo Barolo produced in exceptional barbera and pinot noir grapes. defines the words ‘seduction’ and ‘delicious.’” years. The owners recently began renting out two houses on While Borio may be known for creating excellent-tast- At Bricco Asili, 25,000 bottles of three Barbaresco labels the property. The Loconda, a restored historic building ing wines, she has single-hand- are produced. Ceretto’s other estates produce more on the cobblestone courtyard, houses two guest suites. edly raised the profile of the Barbaresco and Barolo, Dolcetto d’Alba, Chardonnay, The farmhouse Margherita, located in the estate’s park- lowly wine bottle, dressing Spumante Brut, among other wine varieties. In 1974, land, has four bedrooms, some with fireplaces and ter- them with innovative and the Cerettos built the first distillery in the Langhe to races, and offers panoramic views of the hills of light-hearted wine labels produce single-variety Piedmont. Dog lovers may enjoy meeting the estate’s created by Italian designer grappas. precocious Wire Fox Terriers, Fox and Fax. Giacomo Bersanetti.

Via Monforte, 63 Castello Alfieri Strada Castelletto, 6 Castiglione Falletto San Martino Alfieri, Asti Costigliole d’Asti (39) 0173 282582 (39) 0141 976015 (39) 0141 966651 www.marchesialfieri.com www.ceretto.com 1 € = $1.17 at press time Barolo has been called “the king of wines and the wine of kings.” Dreaming of Italy?

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