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The Winter Olympics Duce Barolo and Barbaresco

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The Winter Olympics Duce Barolo and Barbaresco INSIDE: Truffle Hunting 2 Score Event Tickets 4 Tourin’ Turin 6 Native Son: Nutella 7 Three Vineyards to Visit 8 PIEDMONT Italian Government Tourism Board Tourism Italian Government Turin’s Piazza San Carlo is Wine Country SPECIAL REPORT:TURIN PIEDMONT & ith a string of impressive vintages starting in 1995, Wthe winemakers of dream of Piedmont have experienced something of a renaissance. This has been true, not just for its favorite sons — Barolo and Barbaresco — but for many of the region’s wines, 70% of which are made from red grapes. Piedmont’s vineyards are concentrated in the Langhe and Monferrato hills. More than half of the 170,000 acres of vines have earned Italy’s prized D.O.C. (Denominazione di ITALYVolume 4, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com November 2005 Origine Controllata) label, a guarantee of a place name and production for- Ready, Set, Go to mula, awarded by the government. Some 800 Piedmontese vintners pro- the Winter Olympics duce Barolo and Barbaresco. Both are made from the highly tannic nebbiolo grape, which reportedly gets ess than three months remain already suffering from a lack of luxury its name from the fog (la nebbia) that before the opening ceremony of hotel rooms — there are just three often covers the hills here. The loca- L the 20th Olympic Winter Games 5-star and fourteen 4-star properties. tion where the grape is grown (weath- in Torino (February 10 to (See our review of Turin’s er, soil, landscape) determines what 26, 2006). If you’re interest- 4-star Grand Hotel Sitea on kind of wine it will become. ed in being a part of the page 7.) action, time is running out Barolo comes from the grapes grown to make your plans. Have no fear though, there in steep hills southwest of Alba. It ages Fortunately, all but a few are plenty of creative for at least three years with two years popular events still have options: spent in oak or chestnut barrels and tickets available and emerges with a garnet red color high- affordable airplane tickets can still be Turin: Pay Package Prices lighted by orange tones and produces snapped up. The biggest challenge last an intense, full-bodied flavor. minute Olympic travelers face is where If you’re intent on staying in Turin Barbaresco is the provenance of an to rest their heads after cheering on itself, your first step should be to check area northeast of the city, which has a gold-medal hopefuls. www.jumbograndieventi.it, which lists warmer and drier climate. These neb- available rooms around the city. At biolo grapes ripen earlier and create a Most of Turin’s 15,000 hotel rooms press time, the site had doubles at wine with less structure. Barbaresco were booked long ago by members of Turin’s 3-star Hotel Ferrucci for 209€ ages for a minimum of two years (at various Olympic committees and per night and doubles at the 1-star least one in the chestnut or oak barrel) delegations, as well as tour companies. Hotel Mobledar for 97€ per night. It is and has an intense ruby red color with Don’t even think about finding a high- unclear whether there is a minimum a full taste and velvety feel. end hotel room in the city; Turin was continued on page 3 continued on page 8 Piemonte means “foot of the mountains.” On the White Truff “It’s actually more like blood sport. Competition is fierce and se f the world’s most sought after over raw veal, Tajarin (a type ging devices) in hand. But delicacies, the white truffle of Piedmontese pasta) and WHERE TO STAY that’s not all they take with O (tartufo bianco) of Alba is surely butter, steak, fried egg or HOTEL CASA PAVESI them. Here in Piedmont near the very top. Its nickname — cheese. Via IV Novembre, 4 (versus other areas of Italy “white diamond” — gives a hint to its Grinzane Cavour and France where pigs are price (this year about $375 per 100 There are five kinds of white (39) 0173 231149 used), dogs are the most grams) but not necessari- truffle of Alba, depending www.hotelcasapavesi.it trusted tools of truffle ly its appearance, which on the type of tree on whose hunters. Local trifolao claim is something like a root it grows. These truffles This 4-star gem, a stone’s throw they’re easier to train than lumpy potato. It is the grow on the roots of oak from the Grinzane Cavour Castle, pigs and less likely to eat unique taste — strong, with a hint poplar, linden, weeping is a cozy and charming place to their expensive finds. of garlic — and fragrant willow and vine stay, convenient to the truffle aroma that give this truffle trees. The tree action. It also makes a good base While all this might resem- high value. influences the for visiting local vineyards. The 12 ble a quaint countryside pic- color of the truffle, guest rooms feature claw foot ture — man and his dog Unlike black truffles, the white truffle anywhere from pink bathtubs, antiques and wrought traipsing through the forest should not be cooked. Instead, a small to a dusty brown, and iron beds, as well as stunning in search of white gold — amount of raw truffle is served shaved smell, for example, the views of the rolling hills. (by the way, there are a few 2 oak tree produces the most dozen female truffle hunters odorous truffle. The truffles grow from here) it’s not. It’s actually more like late August to January, with peak sea- blood sport. Competition is fierce and son between September and December. secrecy is paramount. Trifolao roam the forests at night in order to hide During this time, some 1,500 licensed their movements and also set up trifolao, truffle hunters, roam the forests decoys. Top notch hunting dogs have of the Langhe, Monferrato and Roero been poisoned and held for ransom. hills (only fenced areas are off limits), walking sticks (which double as dig- With all of the intrigue surrounding the search for truffles, it is usually diffi- cult to find a hunter who will demon- strate his passion. Brothers Giorgio and Natale Romagnolo, members of a five- generation-strong family of truffle hunters, have opened up their family home for visits in order to share their love of truffle hunting. (39-0141- 966568; www.lacasadeltrifulau.it) Alba Alba’s truffle market Alba Alba’s truffle market Lord Byron kept a truffle on his Olympics continued from page 1 le Trail stay required. The site is continually According to propri- updated. etor Karen Lancaster, crecy is paramount. last-minute book- ” The easiest way to secure a 3-star hotel ing seems to be the in the city is to book through CoSport trend. “We have During white truffle season, Giorgio (877-45-RINGS; www.cosport.com) or processed 278 fami- and Natale and dogs Birba and Diana other travel companies, like lies and individuals take guests into the woods to show Select Italy (800-877-1755; so far. We have them how the dogs find the truffles www.selectitaly.com) or around 50 and signal their owners where to look. Ludus Tours (866-343- pending. After the hunt, the group returns to La 6133; www.ludus The Casa del Trifulau for some truffle tasting tours.com). Just be pre- demand and truffle-inspired conversation. pared for high prices. For has dou- example, Ludus offers six- bled in the Another must for any truffle tourist night hotel packages for last two traveling during October and early $2,700 to $3,900 per person. weeks. I get ten November is the month-long truffle requests a day,” she says. fair or Fiera Nazionale del Tartufo CoSport’s rooms are general- (800-828-8768) (www.fieradeltartufo.org) that has ly part of hospitality packages, been held in the medieval city of Alba which include a variety of ticket, meal Another source for finding available since 1929. The true heart of the fair is and transportation options. Their apartments is to go straight to the own- the courtyard of the Palazzo Maddalena, four-night package at the 3-star Best continued on page 4 where a truffle market is held. Truffle Western Crimea, for $8,453 per person, hunters put their freshly procured comes with coveted tickets to the dream of 3 white diamonds up for sale. Other men’s ice hockey gold medal game, the vendors sell other truffle products and figure skating gala, and the closing regional specialties. ceremony, plus cross country and ITALY alpine skiing. Other options allow you For serious truffle aficionados and to customize your event itinerary so Kathleen A. McCabe Publisher and Editor-In-Chief those with seriously deep pockets, the that you don’t get stuck sitting through World Truffle Auction at the beautiful sports you don’t follow. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Castello di Grinzane Cavour is the high- Editorial Assistant: Shauna Maher Design: Leaird Designs light of the truffle season. Depending Turin: Rent an Apartment www.leaird-designs.com on the harvest, a dozen or more truffles are auctioned off at the castle and Especially if you are Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. simultaneously at several locations traveling with a Delivery by mail is $79 per year in the United States around the world, with the proceeds group of three or and $95 abroad. An Internet subscription (download- able PDF) costs $69 per year.
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