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HIROSHI WAGATSUMA the Social Perception of Skin Color in Japan

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HIROSHI WAGATSUMA the Social Perception of Skin Color in Japan HIROSHI WAGATSUMA The Social Perception of Skin Color in Japan Long before any sustained contact with either Caucasoid Euro or or peans dark-skinned Africans Indians, the Japanese valued as as "white" skin beautiful and deprecated "black" skin ugly. Their spontaneous responses to the white skin of Caucasoid Euro were an peans and the black skin of Negroid people extension of values deeply embedded in Japanese concepts of beauty.1 From past to present, the Japanese have always associated skin color symbolically with other physical characteristics that signify de or grees of spiritual refinement primitiveness. Skin color has been to a or related whole complex of attractive objectionable social some as tra traits. It might strike curious that the Japanese have ditionally used the word white (shiroi) to describe lighter shades of their own skin color. The social perception of the West has been a that the Chinese and Japanese belong to so-called "yellow" race, while to the Japanese themselves have rarely used the color yellow describe their skin. I "White" skin has been considered an essential characteristic of feminine in beauty Japan since recorded time. An old Japanese proverb states that "white skin makes up for seven defects"; a woman's light skin causes one to overlook the absence of other desired physical features.2 the Nara court During period (710-793), ladies made ample use of cosmetics and liberally applied white powder to the face.3 Cheeks were Red were rouged. beauty spots painted on between the eyebrows and at the outer corners of both the eyes and the and were a lips. Eyelids lips given red tinge.4 Both men and women removed their natural and in eyebrows penciled long, thick 407 This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Wed, 11 Nov 2015 16:54:55 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions HIROSHI WAGATSUMA lines a emulating Chinese style. The custom of blackening teeth spread among the aristocratic ladies.5 In the next period (794 when court was new 1185), the moved to the capital of Heian (Kyoto), countless references were made in both illustration and to women writing round-faced, plump with white, smooth skin. to was over Necessary beauty long, black, straight hair that draped the back and can shoulders without being tied.6 One illustrate this as a conception of white skin mark of beauty from The Tale of Genji by Lady Murasaki, a romance of the first decade of the eleventh century: Her color of skin was white and she was with an attractive very plump face. Her hair grew thick but was cut so as to hang on a level with her shoulders?very beautiful. Her color was very white and although she was emaciated and looked noble, there still was a certain fulness in her cheek.7 same In her personal diary, the author depicted portraits of several court ladies: Lady Dainagon is very small but as she is white and beautifully round, she has a taller appearance. Her hair is three inches longer than her height. texture is Lady Senji is a small and slender person. The of her hair fine, delicate and glossy and reaches a foot longer than her height. a Lady Naiji has beauty and purity, fragrant white skin with which no one can else compete.8 in The Pillow Writing about the year 1002 essays called Book, she "hair not the court lady Sei Sh?nagon described how despised hair."0 smooth and straight" and envied "beautiful, very long written in 1120 Akazome In The Tale of Glory, presumably by women the Emon, a court lady, two beautiful of prosperous Fuji are one "her hair seven or inches wara family depicted: with eight and the other with "her hair about two longer than her height," and her skin white and beautiful."10 feet longer than her height to the twelfth the bearers of From the eighth century, Japanese h ves cultural refinement were the court nobility who idled their the arts of music and away in romantic love affairs, practicing of untanned skin was the of this poetry. The whiteness symbol class which was form of outdoor labor. From privileged spared any to the eleventh century on, men of the aristocracy applied powder as ladies did.11 their faces just the court 408 This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Wed, 11 Nov 2015 16:54:55 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions The Social Perception of Skin Color in Japan In 1184, the warriors took the reins of government away from the effete courtiers and abruptly ended the court's rather decadent era. To protect the samurai virtues of simplicity, frugality, and set in town bravery, the warriors up headquarters the frontier of Kamakura located far away from the capital. The warriors main as in tained Spartan standards, is evidenced the many portrait or countenances. paintings showing rather florid swarthy Women still continued, however, the practices of toiletry established previ was ously in the court. In 1333 the warriors' government moved to from Kamakura back Kyoto, where the Ashikaga Shogunate an family emulated court life and re-established atmosphere of luxury among the ruling class. Standards of feminine beauty still emphasized corpulence of in was worn body, white skin, and black hair, which this period in a was for a woman with a round chignon. Preference voiced face, broad forehead, and eyes slightly down-turned at the corners.12 By this time, the old court custom of penciling eyebrows and black into rites ening teeth had become incorporated the puberty prac rites were ticed for both boys and girls. Such principally held by were the warrior class but later adopted by commoners.13 The a court writing of Yoshida Kenk?, celebrated poet and official who became a Buddhist monk in 1324, exemplifies the continuing pre women. occupation this period had with the white skin of Yoshida wrote in his Idleness: the following Essays of The magician of Kume (as the legend runs) lost his magic power through looking at the white leg of a maiden washing clothes in a river. This may well have been because the white limbs and skin of a woman are no mere external charms but true cleanly plump and fatty beauty and allure.14 a Following chaotic political period, the Tokugawa feudal govern ment was established in 1603. It was to last until the modern more period of Japan, than two hundred and fifty years. Changes in occurred the ideals of feminine beauty during this period of women continuing peace. Gradually, slim and fragile with slender and to faces up-turned eyes began be preferred to the plump, pear shaped ideal that remained dominant until the middle of the an eighteenth century.15 White skin, however, remained imperative characteristic of a feminine beauty. Ibara Saikaku (1642-1693), novelist who wrote celebrated books about common the life during had the to early Tokugawa period, following say about the type of female beauty to be found in Kyoto and Osaka: 409 This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Wed, 11 Nov 2015 16:54:55 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions HIROSHI WAGATSUMA woman a A beautiful with round face, skin with a faint pink color, eyes not too the of her nose not too narrow, eyebrows thick, bridge thin, her mouth small, teeth in excellent shape and shining white.16 A woman of twenty-one, white of color, hair beautiful, attired in gen tleness. Thanks to the pure water of Kyoto, women remain attractive from early childhood but they further improve their beauty by steaming their faces, tightening their fingers with rings and wearing leather socks in sleep. They also comb their hair with the juice of the sanekazura root.17 Another author, depicting the beauties of the middle Toku gawa period of the 1770's, wrote: "A pair of girls wearing red on as lacquered thongs their tender feet, white snow, sashes around their waists, with forms as slender as willow trees."18 Ta an menaga Shunsui (1789-1843), author of the late Tokugawa never to mention the period, forgot white skin when describing women : beautiful of Edo (Tokyo) Her hands and arms are whiter than snow. You are well-featured and color is so white that are your you popular among your audience. This courtesan a than snow. Her was as had neck whiter face shining she always polished itwith powder.19 use the face The of good water and the practice of steaming were socks thought to make skin white and smooth. Rings and were worn since small in sleep to stunt excessive growth of limbs hands and feet were valued attributes of feminine charm. The was These juice of the sanekazura root used to straighten the hair. concern and practices all confirm the continuous with white skin that straight hair. They also suggest, however, the possibility women were in of feminine many lacking such standards beauty. was The following quotation describes what considered ugly: a the lack of Disagreeable features for a woman are large face, any a tufts of hair under the temple, a big, flat nose, thick lips, black skin, too plump body, excessive tallness, heavy, strong limbs, brownish wavy hair and a loud, talkative voice. were a warrior These the comments of Yanagi Riky?, high-ranking a and noted con of the K?riyama fief, who was also poet, artist, He con noisseur of womanhood in the late-eighteenth century. "the amiable features trasted these objectionable features with 410 This content downloaded from 155.69.24.171 on Wed, 11 Nov 2015 16:54:55 UTC All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions The Social Perception of Skin Color in Japan a a man of woman, small and well-shaped face, white skin, gentle an ner, innocent, charming and attentive character.,,2? One might or speculate that the supposed Polynesian Melanesian strains, sometimes thought to have entered the Japanese racial mixture, or would be responsible for flat noses, thick lips, brownish, wavy are rare hair.
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