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Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks 5

Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks 5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Banff, Jasper & Glacier NATIONAL PARKS

Jasper National Park p130

Banff National Park p46

Around p114

Waterton National Park p216

Glacier National Park p172 Around Glacier National Park p206

Gregor Clark, Michael Grosberg, Craig McLachlan PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Banff, BANFF NATIONAL AROUND Jasper & Glacier...... 4 PARK ...... 46 BANFF NATIONAL Banff, Jasper & Glacier Day Hikes...... 50 PARK ...... 114 National Parks Map. . . . . 6 Overnight Hikes...... 68 Canmore ...... 115 Banff, Jasper & Driving ...... 72 . . . . 119 Glacier’s Top 20...... 8 Cycling ...... 76 . . . . 123 Need to Know...... 18 Other Activities...... 80 O’Hara...... 125 What’s New...... 20 Sights ...... 85 Mt Assiniboine Tours ...... 95 Provincial Park...... 125 If You Like…...... 21 Sleeping ...... 96 Kootenay National Month by Month. . . . . 24 Eating...... 104 Park & Radium Hot Springs...... 126 Itineraries ...... 26 Drinking & Golden...... 128 Activities...... 30 Entertainment ...... 108 Family Travel...... 38 Shopping ...... 109 Travel with Pets . . . . . 42 RONNIECHUA /SHUTTERSTOCK © I VIEWFINDER /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

BANFF SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL (P25) BRIANLASENBY /SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PIKA (P249), Contents

UNDERSTAND

JASPER NATIONAL GLACIER NATIONAL The Parks PARK ...... 130 PARK ...... 172 Today ...... 234 Day Hikes...... 134 Day Hikes...... 176 History...... 236 Overnight Hikes...... 143 Cycling ...... 185 Geology...... 243 Driving...... 146 Other Activities...... 185 Wildlife...... 246 Cycling ...... 147 Sights ...... 190 Other Activities...... 151 Tours ...... 195 Conservation...... 254 Sights ...... 155 Sleeping ...... 196 Tours ...... 160 Eating...... 200 SURVIVAL Sleeping ...... 161 Drinking & Eating ...... 167 Entertainment ...... 201 GUIDE Drinking & Shopping...... 201 Entertainment ...... 170 Health & Safety . . . . . 258 AROUND Clothing & GLACIER NATIONAL Equipment...... 264 PARK ...... 206 Directory A–Z...... 267 West Glacier...... 207 Transportation . . . . . 275 St Mary ...... 208 Index...... 281 East Glacier...... 210 Blackfeet Indian Map Legend...... 287 Reservation...... 211 Whitefish...... 213

WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK. . . . 216 Day Hikes...... 217 Driving ...... 220 Cycling ...... 222 Other Activities...... 223 Sights ...... 227 Tours ...... 227 Sleeping ...... 227 SPECIAL FEATURES Eating ...... 231 Drinking & Activities...... 30 Entertainment ...... 231 Family Travel...... 38 Shopping...... 231 Travel with Pets . . . . . 42 Wildlife...... 246 Clothing & Equipment Checklist...... 266 SPIRIT ISLAND, (P159) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

Jasper •# É

•# Icefields Parkway É

•#

Banff É

Waterton Lakes

•# É USA Glacier •#

2 WEEKS Rocky Mountain Road Trip

This once-in-a-lifetime trip takes in four parks and covers pretty much everything the have to offer. Start out with three days exploring Glacier and the magnificent mountain scenery around Going-to-the-Sun Rd and warming up with some short hikes around Many Gla- cier. On day four, head north across the Canadian border for more hiking in Waterton Lakes, followed by afternoon tea and spectacular vistas at the Prince of Wales Hotel. Spend the next day driving north to Banff, your base for the next four days. How you divide the time is up to you, but make sure you factor in the gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain, wildlife spotting around and the Pkwy, a boat trip across and at least one day hike. Day 10 is set aside for more mind-blowing scenery around and , followed on day 11 by a drive up the Icefields Pkwy – it won’t take long for you to realize why it’s often dubbed the world’s most spectacular road. Round the trip off with three days in Jasper, includ- ing a cruise on Maligne Lake, a day hike, a ride on the Jasper Skytram and a dip in Miette Hot Springs. 27

Icefields •# Parkway

Burgess É Banff •# É National

Shale •# Park

É Lake Louise É #÷

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN Moraine Lake C-Level •# Golden É #÷ Lake

Cirque •# Minnewanka Yoho •# É •# National Johnston Park Canyon •# É É

Bow Valley É •#

Stanley •# É Banff Town Glacier Parkway

É •# Sunshine ÷# Meadows

Kootenay It National Park i nerar É

i es É

Radium Hot Beyond Banff Springs Banff Essentials •#

1 5 WEEK Beyond Banff DAYS Banff Essentials

This itinerary combines day hiking around This five-day itinerary squeezes in Banff’s Banff with a side trip into the neighboring key sights, with the emphasis on sightsee- national parks in . ing rather than hiking. For the first few days, base yourself in Kick off with a day exploring Banff Banff Town and spend the time break- Town, a lively mini-metropolis with a cos- ing in those boots. Start with a gorgeous mopolitan mix of shops, bistros, pubs and afternoon stroll to see and the museums. Check in for some chateau luxury fantastically shaped hoodoos just east at the historic Fairmont Banff Springs Ho- of downtown along the . Later tel, followed by a day exploring Lake Min- in the week, hike up to an icefield at C- newanka, canoeing on the Bow River and Level Cirque or trek through the colorful relaxing in the Upper Hot Springs Pool. wildflowers of . Sunshine Meadows On day three, drive out of Banff and From Banff, head west across the Alber- detour off the Trans-Canada Hwy and onto ta–British Columbia border into Kootenay the Bow Valley Pkwy. Keep your eyes National Park. Take the time to hike peeled for wildlife, and don’t miss the fa- up to Stanley Glacier before chilling in mous waterfalls of Johnston Canyon. By the ‘hot’ and ‘cool’ pools of Radium Hot mid-afternoon, you’ll reach the iconic sight Springs, both fed from a volcanic spring of Lake Louise and nearby Moraine hidden deep beneath the mountainside. Lake, both renowned for their sapphire- blue waters and stunning mountain set- From Radium, the route loops north via tings. Spend day four stretching your legs, Golden, a lively little town. From here, the either on the dramatic trail along the Plain road heads east along the Kicking Horse of Six Glaciers, or on the steep climb to Valley into Yoho National Park, where and the Beehives. you can spend the remaining few days admiring the sights: don’t miss Emerald On day five, drive along the breathtak- Lake, Takakkaw Falls and a guided walk to ing Icefields Pkwy, passing jagged peaks, the fossil fields of the Burgess Shale. mighty glaciers and sparkling lakes. 28

•# Miette Hot A Weekend in Jasper Springs Jasper’s Classic Hikes Maligne É

Canyon É End of Trail Skyline Trail

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Medicine •# •# •# •# Lake

Jasper Town •# É É É Old Fort Point Loop É É É •#•# Start of Maligne Lake & •# Skyline Mary Schäffer Loop Path of the Trail Glacier & Cavell It Meadows Trails Icefields i nerar •# Parkway ÷# Jasper National

i es É Park

Columbia •# Icefield

3 A Weekend 1 Jasper’s DAYS in Jasper WEEK Classic Hikes

Even with only a long weekend at your You’ve seen Jasper’s must-see sights, so disposal, it’s still possible to get a taste of now’s the time for something a bit more what makes Jasper special. Base yourself challenging with this hike-centric itinerary. in Jasper Town, and take three little day Warm up with some easy hikes around excursions. town. The steep but short Old Fort Point On the first day, tick off Jasper Town: loop takes you to a vantage point high get an early morning ticket for the Jasper above the , while the Skytram, visit the museum, pick up lunch Maligne Canyon trail leads you past from the Bear’s Paw Bakery, then spend an spectacular canyon views without ever afternoon at Patricia and Pyramid Lakes. straying too far from civilization. Stroll along the Discovery Trail as the sun Now you’re ready for the wilder stuff. sets, with a smart dinner at Evil Dave’s. The two- to three-day Skyline Trail is On day two, pack a picnic from Patricia without doubt one of North America’s pre- St Deli and drive along Maligne Lake Rd – mier overnight hikes, taking in everything a hot spot for wildlife. Watch for bear and from snowy peaks and glacial lakes to as you wind through the wildlife lofty passes with mind-boggling views. You corridor towards , then don’t even have to rough it, thanks to the head for nearby Maligne Lake for a guid- cozy Shovel Pass Lodge. ed cruise to tiny Spirit Island and an early After the exertion, it’s time to sit back evening walk on the . Mary Schäffer Loop and let the views come to you. Spend a day On your last day, it’s time to hit the trail. driving south along the Jasper section of Jasper has lots of day hikes, but it’s hard the Icefields Pkwy, and finish up with a to top the spectacular Path of the Glacier visit to the , the largest and Cavell Meadows Trails. Reward area of ice this side of the North Pole. Most yourself with an evening soak at Miette people trundle up in an Ice Explorer, but Hot Springs, followed by farewell drinks a guided walk will give you an even more and dinner at Jasper Brewing Company. memorable perspective. 29

Waterton •# Gems of Glacier anaa East Glacier to Waterton

sa É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN É ÷# •#

Glacier Highline É National Trail Many Park •# Glacier St Mary •# St Mary

Logan Lake It •# Going- •#Pass i nerar

É É É

É to-the- É Sun Road •# É i es

Lake É McDonald •# Agpar •# Valley

East Glacier 3 Gems of Glacier 1 DAYS WEEK to Waterton

Three days in Glacier will bag you the This trip focuses on the eastern side of highlights if you don’t stray too far from the Rockies in Glacier National Park, us- the Going-to-the-Sun Rd. Use one of the ing the small settlement of St Mary as a hotels or motels around Apgar as your base. Afterwards, you’ll be within striking launchpad and then employ the park’s distance of Waterton Lakes just across the handy free shuttle to get you from west border in Canada. side to east with various stop-offs en route. Spend the first couple of days exploring On day one, explore around Apgar, West Going-to-the-Sun Rd. Two Medicine Glacier and nearby Lake McDonald, perhaps Valley is a short drive south of St Mary, taking a walk among ancient rainforest on while lies to the west: both the Trail of the Cedars, or admiring moun- are fantastic areas for walking and wild- tain scenery on the Avalanche Lake Trail. life watching. To get underneath Glacier’s skin, a hike is essential – the Sun Point to On day two, travel east along the Going- Virginia Falls Trail starts near St Mary to-the-Sun Rd, one of America’s most Lake, while the starting at stunning stretches of asphalt. You can take Highline Trail Logan Pass is one of the park’s most popu- your own vehicle or climb aboard one of lar – and spectacular. Frequent buses on the vintage Red Jammer buses, which have Going-to-the-Sun Rd mean you don’t even been trundling along the road since 1936. need to worry about transport. Stop to see the sights: the tumbling cas- cades of Bird Woman Falls and the Weep- Then it’s north for a couple of days in ing Wall, the dramatic stretch of highway , arguably the national over Logan Pass, and the Jackson Glacier park’s most beautiful valley. Reward your- Overlook, which affords a knockout view of self with a stay in the , one of the park’s namesake glaciers. overlooking . Stay overnight at St Mary Lake, and Finish up with some more hiking and spend your last day hiking trails and spot- sightseeing in Waterton: don’t miss the ting wildlife in Two Medicine Valley. classic Carthew–Alderson Trail. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 280

Behind the Scenes

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Ducharme, Michelle Gaudet, Kimmy Walt, Angel WRITER THANKS Esperanueva and Monica Jungster. And to Carly, Gregor Clark Rosie, Willa and Boone for keeping in touch while in Heartfelt thanks to all of the kind Albertans and the wilderness. fellow travelers who shared their love and knowledge of Banff and Jasper – especially Karina Birch, Kate Craig McLachlan Williams, Ken Wood, Paul Krywicki, Erin Wilkinson, A hearty thanks to all those who helped out on the Ed and Vanessa, Shauna and Lindsay. Thanks also to road, but most of all, to my exceptionally beautiful the family and friends who helped me explore Banff wife, Yuriko, who maintained semi-control of my craft and Jasper’s trails: Chloe, Sophie, Wes and Ted, that beer intake. means you! Couldn’t have asked for a more delightful research crew. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Michael Grosberg Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Many thanks to all those who shared their expe- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the riences, knowledge and deep passion for Glacier, Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Whitefish and Waterton including Brian Schott, Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Greg Fortin, Riley Polumbus, Rhonda Fitzgerald, Chris Schustrom, Cricket Butler, BJ Elzinga, Marc Cover photograph: Moraine Lake at sunrise, Banff National Park, Matteo Colombo/AWL Images ©

by Brendan and Oliver Berry. Assisting Editors Victoria THIS BOOK This guidebook was produced Harrison, Lou McGregor, This 5th edition of Lonely by the following: Christopher Pitts, Maja Vatrić, Planet’s Banff, Jasper & Destination Editor Simon Williamson Glacier National Parks guide- Ben Buckner Cartographer David Connolly book was curated by Gregor Senior Product Editors Cover Researcher Clark, and researched and Grace Dobell, Martine Power, Naomi Parker written by Gregor, Michael Saralinda Turner Thanks to April Arnatt, Andrea Grosberg and Craig McLachlan. Regional Senior Cartogra- Cadieux, Hannah Cartmel, The previous edition was writ- pher Corey Hutchison Javier Chan, Samuel Mason, ten by Michael and Brendan Product Editor Katie Connolly Joan Ng, Martin Pratt, Vicky Sainsbury and the 3rd edition Smith, Stephanie Yates Book Designer Fergal Condon ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A canoeing 80-1 Beehives, the 52-3, 62-3, 61 227 accessible travel 267 climate 114 bicycle travel, see cycling camping accommodations 23, 173, cross-country skiing 84-5 bicycling, see cycling backcountry 32, 100 268-9, see also cycling 76-80, 77, 78, 79 Big Head 115 Banff National Park 96-7, individual locations drinking 108 bighorn sheep 36, 248, 11 98-9, 100, 101, 102, 103 B&Bs 166 driving 46, 72-6, 73, Bird Woman Falls 191 Glacier National Park 196, backcountry 100, 104, 75, 76 birds 250-1 197, 198-9, 200 165, 200 entertainment 108 Blackfeet Indian Reservation Jasper National Park pets, travel with 43 fishing 81 211-13 161-3, 164, 166 activities 21, 24-5, 30-7, see food 104-8 Blackfeet Nation 211, 212 Waterton Lakes National Park 228 also individual locations golf 82 boat travel & activities Canmore 115-19, 116 highlights 48-9 Glacier National Park 185 air travel 275 Canmore Downtown hiking 46, 50-67, 51, 61, Jasper National Park Akamina Parkway 220-1, Hostel 20 65, 68, 70, 72 151-2 221 Canmore Highland history 92, 236-8 Waterton Lakes National animals 246-51, see also Games 25 horseback riding 82-3 Park 225 individual animals Canmore Nordic Centre 13, information 47, 109 books 234, 258-9 Apgar Village 193 115, 13 internet resources 47 border crossings 229 area codes 273 canoeing 35, 39, 80-1, 34 itineraries 27, Bow Falls 50, 52-3, 86, 51 155 27 car travel 276-7, 278-9, see kayaking 80-1 Falls 52-3, also driving 17, 155, 17 64-5, medical services 109 65 Carthew-Alderson Trail 219, Athabasca River Valley Loop Bow Summit Lookout 52-3, 149, planning 46-7 220-1, 217 149 66, 65 rock climbing 81-2 Cascade Amphitheatre 52-3, ATMs 271-2 Bow Valley Pkwy 72-4, safety 106, 109 57, 51 Avalanche Lake Trail 177-9, 93, 73 scrambling 83 56 177 budget 19 avalanches 262-3 shopping 109 Cave & Basin National Burgess Shale formation Historic Site 86-8 sights 85-95 123 Cavell Meadows Trail 134-7, skiing 83-4 B Burgess Shale Geoscience 135 snowboarding 83-4 Foundation 123 backpacks 264 cell phones 18, 273 tourist information 110 bus travel 275-6, 278 Bald Hills Loop 136-7, children, travel with 38-41 142, tours 95-6 bush walking, see hiking, 141 City Beach Park 213-15 Banff Avenue 86 travel seasons 114 day hikes, overnight C-Level Cirque travel to/from 110 hikes Banff Gondola 89 52-3, 56, 51 travel within 110, 111 business hours 273 Banff Mountain Film & Book climate 18, 24-5, 270, 18 Festival 25 white-water rafting 81 clothing 264-6 Banff National Park 46-111, Banff Summer Arts Festival C Columbia Icefield , , , , 48-9 51 90-1 5 34 25, 2 cable cars Skywalk 155 accommodations 46, Banff Town 85-91, 87, Banff Gondola 89 conservation 230, 254-6 96-104 88, 33 Jasper Skytram 157, 15 conservationists 254 activities 50-85 bathrooms 273-4 Lake Louise Gondola Consolation Lakes Trail 52-3, bear spray 265 94, 112 60, 61 bears 247, 262, 13, 246 Sunshine Sightseeing Cory Pass Loop 52-3, Map Pages 000 Beaver Lake 136-7, 142, 141 Gondola 92-3 57-8, 51 Photo Pages 000 beavers 249-50 Cameron Falls 227 coyotes 247-8 282 cross-country skiing 37 Carthew-Alderson Trail, 52-3, Icefields Pkwy 9, 74-5, Banff National Park 84-5 219, 220-1, 217 65-6, 65 146-7, 75, 147, 8-9 Jasper National Park 154 Cascade Amphitheatre Path of the Glacier & Jasper National Park credit cards 272 52-3, 57, 51 Cavell Meadows Trails 130, 146-8, 147, 148 134-7, 135 Crypt Lake Trail 17, 219-20, C-Level Cirque 52-3, Maligne Lake Road 56, & Bow 148, 220-1, 217, 17 51 148

INDEX INDEX Summit Lookout 52-3, currency 202, 273 Consolation Lakes Trail Minnewanka Loop 52-3, 60, 61 66, 65 74-7, 76 customs regulations 270 Cory Pass Loop 52-3, Piegan Pass 178-9, Red Rock Pkwy cycling 33-4, 277-8, 181, C-F 57-8, 51 177 221-2, 221  22, 33 Crypt Lake Trail 17, 219- Plain of Six Glaciers Waterton Lakes National Athabasca River Valley  20, 220-1, 217, 17 52-3, 60-2, 61, 5, 113 Park 220-2, 221 Loop 149, 149 Dawson-Pitamakan Loop Quartz Lakes Loop 178-9, Banff National Park 178-9, 182-3, 182 184, 184 76-80, 77, 78, 79 E Fenland Trail & Vermilion Rowe Lakes 217-19, children, travel with 39 East Glacier 210-11 Lakes 50-1, 52-3, 220-1, 217 economy 235 Glacier National Park 54, 51 Saddleback & Fairview 185 Garden Path Trail & Twin 52-3, 63, 61 Egypt Lake 54-5, 68-9, 68 Goat Creek Trail Cairns Meadow 54-5, Stewart Canyon 52-3, electricity 271-4 79-80, 79 58-9, 51 56-7, 51 elk 248-9, 37 Jasper National Park Geraldine Lakes 136-7, Sulphur Mountain 52-3, Emerald Lake 123 147-50, 149 135 55-6, 51 emergencies 19, 259 Legacy Trail 78, 78 Glacier National Park Sulphur Skyline 136-7, Empire Builder 194 Moraine Lake via 176-85, 177, 182, 184 143, 143 entertainment, see Tramline 77-9, 77 Healy Pass & Simpson Sun Point to Virginia individual locations Red Rock Parkway Loop Pass 54-5, 59-60, 51 Falls 176, 178-9, 177 environmental hazards 222-3 Helen Lake 52-3, 66-7, Sundance Canyon 52-3, 259-62 safety 263 65 54, 51 altitude 259-60 Saturday Night Lake Overlook Sunset Lookout 52-3, bears 262 Loop 150 Trail 176-7, 178-9, 67-8, 177 65 bites 260 Snowshoe Trail 223 Highline Trail 178-81, Swiftcurrent Lake Nature 177 drinking water 260 Valley of the Five Lakes Iceberg Lake Trail 178-9, Trail 178-9, 183, 184 frostbite 261 150 183, 184, 205 Swiftcurrent Pass Trail heat 261 Waterton Lakes National Jasper National Park 178-9, 184-5, 184 Park 222-3 134-43, 135, 138, Waterton Lakes National hypothermia 260-1 141, 143 Park 217-20, 217 snow blindness 261-2 stings 260 D Johnson Lake 52-3, Whistlers Summit 136-7, 54-5, 140, environmental issues 32, dangers, see safety 51 138 Johnston Canyon & the Wilcox Ridge 134, 136-7, 234, 249, 254-6 Dawson-Pitamakan Loop Inkpots 52-3, 58, 51 135 equipment 264-6 178-9, 182-3, 182 Lake Agnes & the deer 248 checklist 266 day hikes 31, 50-67, see Beehives 52-3, also overnight hikes disabilities, travelers renting 266 62-3, 61 with 267 Avalanche Lake Trail events 24-5 Larch Valley & Sentinel 177-9, 177 dogsledding 116-17, 213 exchange rates 19 Pass 54-5, 62, 61 Bald Hills Loop 136-7, drinking, see individual extreme activities 35 Maligne Canyon 136-7, 142, 141 locations 138-9, 138, 22 Banff National Park drinking water 260 Mary Schäffer Loop F 50-67, 51, 61, 65 driver’s licenses 278 136-7, 140-1, 141 Fairmont Banff Springs 86 Beaver, Summit & driving 18, see also car Mina & Riley Lakes Loop Fairview 52-3, 63, 61 Jacques Lakes 136-7, travel 136-7, 139, 138 142, 141 Akamina Pkwy 220-1, Fenland Trail 50-1, 52-3, Loop 136-7, 54, 51 Bow Falls & the Hoodoos 221 141-2, 141 50, 52-3, 51 Banff National Park 72-6, festivals 24-5 Mt Brown Lookout 178-9, Bow Glacier Falls 52-3, 73, 75, 76 Fidler, Peter 230 181-2, 177 64-5, 65 Bow Valley Pkwy 72-4, 73 films 234 Old Fort Point Loop Glacier National Park fish 250 136-7, 139-40, 138 172, 188, 188 fishing 34 Paradise Valley & the Map Pages Going-to-the-Sun Rd Banff National Park 81 000 Giant’s Steps 52-3, 188, 188, 9, 204 Photo Pages 000 63-4, 61 Jasper National Park 152 283 Waterton Lakes National tours 195 Carthew-Alderson Trail, Mary Schäffer Loop Park 225 travel to/from 202-3 219, 220-1, 217 136-7, 140-1, 141 Flathead people 212 travel within 203 Cascade Amphitheatre Mina & Riley Lakes Loop float trips 35 weather 206 52-3, 57, 51 136-7, 139, 138 Glacier National Park white-water rafting 186 children, travel with 38 Moose Lake Loop 136-7, 141-2, 141 186 glaciers 21, 190, 244, 244-5 C-Level Cirque 52-3, 56, 51 Mt Assiniboine 54-5, INDEX Jasper National Park 151 135 Consolation Lakes Trail 69-71, 70, 11 food 270, see also Athabasca Glacier 52-3, 60, 61 Mt Brown Lookout 178-9, individual locations 134, 155 -Cory Pass Loop 52-3, 181-2, 177  F Forty Mile Creek 57 Glacier View Lodge 20 North Boundary Trail 161  H 51 ,57-8 fossils 123, 127 global positioning systems Crypt Lake Trail 17, Northern Highline- (GPS) 265 219-20, 220-1, 217, 17 Waterton Valley 178-9, Goat Creek Trail 79-80, G 79 Dawson-Pitamakan Loop 186-7, 187 Garden Path Trail 54-5, Godsal, Fredrick William 178-9, 182-3, 182 Old Fort Point Loop 230 58-9, 51 Egypt Lake & Gibbon 136-7, 139-40, 138 191 Going-to-the-Sun Rd 9, Pass 54-5, 68-9, 68 Paradise Valley & the 188, 190-3, , , gay travelers 271 188 9 204 Fenland Trail & Vermilion Giant’s Steps 52-3, geography 243-4 Golden 128-9 Lakes 50-1, 52-3, 63-4, 61 geology 243-5 golf 54, 51 Parker Ridge 52-3, geomorphological Banff National Park 82 Garden Path Trail & Twin 65-6, 65 (surface) features 245 Glacier National Park 189 Cairns Meadow 54-5, Path of the Glacier & Geraldine Lakes 136-7, 135 Jasper National Park 153 58-9, 51 Cavell Meadows Trails 134-7, Giant’s Steps, the 52-3, Waterton Lakes National Geraldine Lakes 136-7, 135 63-4, 61 Park 225 135 Peter Lougheed Provincial Park 120 Gibbon Pass 54-5, 68-9, 68 GPS 265 Glacier National Park 172, 176-85, 186-7, 177, Peyto Lake & Bow Glacier Hotel 12, 198, 12 Trail 115 180, 182, 184, 187 Summit Lookout 52-3, Glacier National Park 172- Great Northern Railway 194 grades 31 66, 65 203, 174-5, 192, 12 guides 32-3 Grassi Lakes Trail 115 Piegan Pass 178-9, accommodations 172, Gunsight Pass Trail 178-9, Gunsight Pass Trail 178- 181, 177 196-200 180, 180 9, 180, Plain of Six Glaciers boating 185 180 Healy Pass & Simpson 52-3, 60-2, 61, 5, 113 climate 206 H Pass 54-5, 59-60, 51 Quartz Lakes Loop 178-9, cycling 185 184, health 258-63 Helen Lake 52-3, 66-7, 65 184 drinking 201 Healy Pass 54-5, 59-60, 51 Hidden Lake Overlook Rowe Lakes 217, 219, driving 172, 188, 220-1, 188 Helen Lake 52-3, 66-7, 65 Trail 176-7, 178-9, 177 217 Saddleback & Fairview entertainment 201 Hidden Lake Overlook Trail Highline Trail 178-81, 177 52-3, 63, 61 fishing 186-9 176-7, 178-9, 177 Iceberg Lake Trail 178-9, safety 106, 261 float trips 186 Highline Trail 178-81, 177 183, 184, 205 food 200-1 hiking 22, 31-7, 52-5, Iceline Trail 123 Skoki Valley 52-3, 71-2, 72 golf 189 see also day hikes, International Peace Park Skyline Trail 10, 136-7, hiking 172, 176-85, 177, overnight hikes Hike 223 143-6, 144, 10 180, 182, 184, 187 Avalanche Lake Trail Jasper National Park Smith-Dorrien/Spray history 241-2 177-9, 177 130, 134-47, 135, 138, Trail Rd 121 horseback riding 189 Bald Hills Loop 136-7, 141, 143, 144, 145 Stewart Canyon 52-3, information 201-2 142, 141 Johnson Lake 52-3, 56-7, 51 internet resources 173 Banff National Park 54-5, 51 50-72, 51, 61, 65, 68, Johnston Canyon & the Sulphur Mountain 52-3, itineraries 29, 29 55-6, 70, 72 Inkpots 52-3, 58, 51 51 medical services 202 Beaver, Summit & King Creek Ridge 120 Sulphur Skyline 136-7, planning 172-3 143, 143 Jacques Lakes 136-7, Lake Agnes & the rock climbing 189 142, 141 Beehives 52-3, Sun Point to Virginia Falls 176, 178-9, safety 201 Bow Falls & the Hoodoos 62-3, 61 177 shopping 201 50, 52-3, 51 Lake Louise 106 Sundance Canyon 52-3, 54, 51 sights 190-5 Bow Glacier Falls 52-3, Larch Valley & Sentinel Sunset Lookout 52-3, skiing 189-203 64-5, 65 Pass 54-5, 62, 61 67-8, 65 snowshoeing 189-203 Burgess Shale Maligne Canyon 136-7, Geoscience Swiftcurrent Lake Nature tourist information 202 138-9, 138, 22 Foundation 123 Trail 178-9, 183, 184 284 hiking continued icewalking 154, 155 travel to/from 171 M Swiftcurrent Pass Trail Inkpots, the 52-3, 58, 51 travel within 171 Maligne Canyon 136-7, 178-9, 184-5, 184 immigration 272 white-water rafting 151 138-9, 138, 22 Tamarack Trail 221-2, insurance 258, 270 wildlife watching 153 Maligne Lake 15, 159-60, 224, 224 International Peace Park Jasper Skytram 15, 157, 15 2-3, 15, 34 Tonquin Valley 136-7, Hike 223 Jasper Town 157-9, 158 Maligne Lake Rd 148, 148 INDEX INDEX 145, 145 internet access 270 Johnson Lake 52-3, Many Glacier Hotel 12, 12 Twin Falls & the internet resources 19, 54-5, Many Glacier Valley 194-5 Whaleback 124 51 47, 236 Johnston Canyon 52-3, 58, maps 33, 264-5, 271

H-M Waterton Lakes National  itineraries 26-9, , , 93, , Park 217-20, 224, 26 27 51 112 Marble Canyon 127 28, 29 marmots 249-50 224 ,217  Izaak Walton Inn 210 Whistlers Summit 136-7, K Mary Schäffer Loop 136-7, 140, 138 Kananaskis Country 140-1, 141 Wilcox Ridge 134, 136-7, J 119-23, 16 measures 274 135 Jackson Glacier Overlook Kananaskis Nordic Spa 20 medical services 259 Yoho Lake & Wapta 191 kayaking 35, 204 Medicine Lake 160 Highline 124 Jacques Lake 136-7, 142, Banff National Park 80-1 Miette Hot Springs 160 historic hotels 12 141 children, travel with 39 Mina & Riley Lakes Loop historic sites 238 Jasper Dark Sky Festival 25 Jasper National Park 152 136-7, 139, 138 history 23, 236-42 Jasper National Park Kicking Horse Mountain Minnewanka Loop 74-7, 76 Banff National Park 92, 130-71, 132-3, 156 Resort 128 Mistaya Canyon 67 236-8 accommodations 130, 123 mobile phones 18, 273 161-7 Glacier National Park Kicking Horse Pedestrian money 18, 19, 271-3 241-2 boating 151-2 Bridge 128 moose 248-9, 249 cross-country skiing 154 Jasper National Park King Creek Ridge 120 Moose Lake Loop 136-7, 238-41 cycling 147, 149-50, 149 Kootenai Lakes 187 141-2, 141 hitchhiking 279 drinking 170 Kootenai people 212 Moraine Lake 12, 94-5, 12 holidays 273 driving 130, 146-8, 147, Moraine Lake via Tramline Hoodoos, the 50, 52-3, 51 148 126-8 77-9, 77 horseback riding 35, 14 entertainment 170 motorcycle travel 276-7, Banff National Park 82-3 fishing 152 278-9 children, travel with 39 float trips 151 L mountain biking, see Lake Agnes teahouse Glacier National Park food 167-70 cycling 10, 10 189 golf 153 mountain goats 248 Lake Agnes 10, 52-3, 62-3, Jasper National Park 153 hiking 130, 134-47, 135, 61, 10 mountain guides 95 Waterton Lakes National 138, 141, 143, 144, Lake Louise 14, 93, 106, 14 mountaineering 36, see Park 225 145 also rock climbing Lake Louise Gondola Horseshoe Lake 157 history 238-41 94, 112 Mt Assiniboine 11, 54-5, horseback riding 153 69-71, 70, 11 hot springs 17, 17 84 Miette Hot Springs 160 information 170-1 Mt Assiniboine Provincial Lake McDonald 188, 9, Park 125-6, 70 Radium Hot Springs internet resources 131 204 Mt Brown Lookout 178-9, 126-8 itineraries 28, 28 Lake McDonald Lodge 193, 181-2, 177 Upper Hot Springs kayaking 152 196, 204 Mt Edith Cavell 157 85-6, 17 medical services 170 Lake McDonald Valley 191 83-111, 92 overnight hikes 143-6 Lake Minnewanka 91 Mt Robson Provincial Park planning 130-1 Lake O’Hara 125, 30 I 168-9 ice skating 154 ranger programs 153 lakes 21-2 museums Iceberg Lake Trail 178-9, rock climbing 152-3 Larch Valley 54-5, 62, 61 Banff Park Museum 88 183, 184, 205 safety 170 Legacy Trail 78, 78 Buffalo Nations Luxton ice-climbing 23, 154, 22 sights 155-60 legal matters 271 Museum 89 Icefields Pkwy 9, 74-5, 95, skiing 153-4 Les Mason State Park 213 Canmore Museum & 146-7, 75, 147, 8-9 snowboarding 153-4 lesbian travelers 271 Geoscience Centre 115 Iceline Trail 123-4 snowshoeing 154 LGBTIQ+ travelers 271 Museum of the Plains stargazing 151 lightning 263 Indian 211 Map Pages 000 tours 160-1 Logan Pass 191 Whyte Museum of the 85 Photo Pages 000 tourist information 171 Loop, the 188, 191 285 N P Rowe Lakes 217. 219, Sundance Canyon 52-3, national parks & reserves Paradise Valley 52-3, 220-1, 217 54, 51 18-19, 6-7, 45, see also 63-4, 61 RVs 276-7 Sunrift Gorge 191 individual national Parker Ridge 52-3, 65-6, Sunset Lookout 52-3, parks 67-8, 65 65 S opening dates 19 Sunshine Meadows 12, parkitecture 239 Saddleback 52-3, 63, 61 permits 19 92-3, 12 INDEX passports 272 safety 258-63, 279 regulations 19 Sunshine Village 84 Path of the Glacier Trail Saturday Night Lake 155 Native American tribes 134-7, 135 Loop 150 -sustainable travel 255  N 212 permits 32, 44, 225 Schäffer, Mary 239 nature reserves Swiftcurrent Lake  U Peter Lougheed Provincial scrambling 83 Marsh Loop 88 Park 120 Nature Trail 178-9, Sentinel Pass 54-5, 62, 51 Vermilion Lakes 88-9 pets, travel with 42-4 183, 184 shopping, see individual Swiftcurrent Pass Trail newspapers 274 Peyto Lake 52-3, 66, locations , 178-9, 184-5, 184 nightlife, see individual 65 112 54-5, locations Piegan Pass 178-9, 181, 177 59-60, 51 North Boundary Trail 161 pikas 249-50, 2 skiing 36-7 T North Fork Valley 195 Plain of Six Glaciers 52-3, Banff National Park 83-4 Takakkaw Falls 16, 123, 16 60-2, , , Northern Highline– 61 5 113 Glacier National Park Tamarack Trail 220-1, Waterton Valley 178-9, planning 31 189-203 224, 224 186-7, 187 calendar of events 24-5 Jasper National Park Tank 310 20 Northern Lights Wolf itineraries 26-9 153-4 taxes 274 Centre 128 money 18 Whitefish Mountain telephone services 273 national parks basics Resort 213 tents 265 O 18-19 Skoki Valley 52-3, 71-2, 72 Thompson, David 240 off-the-beaten-track repeat visitors 20 Skyline Trail 10, 136-7, 143- time 273 spots 23 travel seasons 24-5 6, 144, 10 toilets 273-4 Old Fort Point Loop 136-7, plants 251-3 Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail Tonquin Valley 14, 136-7, 139-40, 138 Pocahontas 160 Rd 121 145, 145, 14 opening hours 273 Polebridge 208 Snow Days 24 tourist information 274, overnight hikes 32 population 235 snowboarding 36-7 see also individual locations Banff National Park postal services 273 Banff National Park 83-4 68-72, , , tours 68 70 72 public holidays 273 Jasper National Park Egypt Lake & Gibbon 153-4 Banff National Park 95-6 Pass 54-5, 68-9, 68 Snowshoe Trail 223 Glacier National Park Glacier National Q snowshoeing 195 Quartz Lakes Loop 178-9, Park 180, 186-7, Glacier National Park Jasper National Park 184, 184 180, 187 189-203 160-1 Gunsight Pass Trail Jasper National Waterton Lakes National 178-9, 180, 180 R Park 154 Park 227 Jasper National Park radio 274 solo travel 33 train travel 194, 277 143-6, 144, 145 Radium Hot Springs 126-8 20 travel to/from the parks Mt Assiniboine 54-5, 275-7 ranger programs 40, 153 Spirit Island 15, 159, 2, 15 69-71, 70 recreational vehicles (RVs) Spiral Tunnels 123 travel within the parks 19, Northern Highline– 20, 277-9 276-7 St Mary 208-10 Waterton Valley trekking, see hiking, day Red Jammer Buses 20 St Mary Lake 190-1 178-9, 186-7, 187 hikes, overnight hikes Red Rock Pkwy 221-3, 221 stargazing 151 Skoki Valley 52-3, 91 71-2, 72 regulations 19, 32, 42 Stewart Canyon 52-3, Meadow 54-5, Skyline Trail 10, 136-7, 153 56-7, 51 58-9, 51 143-6, 144, 10 Riley Lake 136-7, 139, 138 Sulphur Mountain 52-3, Twin Falls 124 Tamarack Trail 221-2, Rising Sun 191 55-6, 51 Two Medicine Valley 13, 194 224, 224 Roam 20 Sulphur Skyline 136-7, Tonquin Valley 136-7, rock climbing 36 143, 143 145, 145 Banff National Park 81-2 136-7, 142, U Waterton Lakes Glacier National Park 189 141 Upper Hot Springs 85-6, 17 National Park Sun Point 176, 178-9, Jasper National Park Upper 227 224, 224 191, 152-3 177 286 V Bird Woman Falls 191 itineraries 29, 29 white-water rafting 16, vacations 273 Bow Falls 86 medical services 232 35, 16 vegetarian travelers 106, Cameron Falls 227 permits 225 Banff National Park 81 169, 214, 231 Johnston Canyon Falls planning 216-17 Glacier National Valley of the Five Lakes 150 93, 112 shopping 231 Park 186 Vermilion Lakes 50-1, 52-3, Sunwapta Falls 155 sights 227 Jasper National INDEX INDEX Park 151 54, 51 Takakkaw Falls 16, tourist information 232 Wilcox Ridge 134, 136-7, via ferratas 82 123, 16 tours 227 135 viewpoints 191 travel to/from 232 V- Wild Goose Island 191  Jackson Glacier Overlook Waterton Lakes National Y travel within 232  Park 216-32, 218, 228 wildfires 234-5 191 Waterton Townsite 227, accommodations 227-30 wildflowers 253, 252 Kicking Horse Pass & 226 wildlife 246-53 Spiral Tunnels 123 boating 225 weather 18, 24-5, 270 wildlife crossings 84 Sun Point 191 cycling 222-3 websites 19, 47, 236 wildlife watching 11, 21, 36, Virginia Falls 176, drinking 231 Weeping Wall 191 178-9, 177 153, 251 driving 216, 220-2, 221, weights 274 visas 272 224 Willmore Wilderness West Glacier 207-8 volunteering 274 entertainment 231 Park 169 Whaleback, the 124 fishing 225 wolves 247-8 Whistlers Summit 136-7, food 231 woodland caribou 153 W 140, 138 walking, see hiking, day golf 225 Whitefish 213-15 hikes, overnight hikes hiking 217-20, 224, 217, Whitefish Mountain Resort Y Wapta Highline 124 224 213, 22 Yoho Lake 124 waterfalls 21-2 horseback riding 225 Whitefish Trail 20 Yoho National Park 123-4, Athabasca Falls 155 information 232 30

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Gregor Clark Banff National Park, Jasper National Park, Waterton Lakes National Park Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include Italy, France, Brazil, Costa Rica, Argentina, Portugal, Switzerland, Mexico, Montréal & Québec City, France’s Best Trips, New England’s Best Trips, cycling guides to Italy and California and coffee-table pictorials such as Food Trails, the USA Book and the Lonely Planet Guide to the Middle of Nowhere. Gregor was born in New York City. He has lived in California, France, Spain and Italy prior to settling with his wife and two daughters in his current home state of Vermont. Gregor also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.

Michael Grosberg Glacier National Park Michael has worked on over 50 Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other international work has included development on Rota in the western Pa- cific; investigating and writing about political violence and training newly elect- ed government representatives in South Africa; and teaching in Quito, Ecuador. He has received a Masters in Comparative Literature and has taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor.

Craig McLachlan Golden, Kootenay National Park, Yoho National Park Craig has covered destina- tions all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has completed a number of adventures in Japan and his books are available on Amazon. Describing himself as a ‘freelance anything’, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai’i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, hiking guide, tour leader, karate instructor, marriage celebrant and budding novelist. Check out www. craigmclachlan.com.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Apr 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 592 0 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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