©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Banff, Jasper & Glacier NATIONAL PARKS Jasper National Park p130 Banff National Park p46 Around Banff National Park p114 Waterton Lakes National Park p216 Glacier National Park p172 Around Glacier National Park p206 Gregor Clark, Michael Grosberg, Craig McLachlan PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Banff, BANFF NATIONAL AROUND Jasper & Glacier . 4 PARK . 46 BANFF NATIONAL Banff, Jasper & Glacier Day Hikes . .. 50 PARK . .114 National Parks Map . 6 Overnight Hikes . 68 Canmore . 115 Banff, Jasper & Driving . 72 Kananaskis Country . 119 Glacier’s Top 20 . 8 Cycling . 76 Yoho National Park . 123 Need to Know . 18 Other Activities . 80 Lake O’Hara . 125 What’s New . 20 Sights . 85 Mt Assiniboine Tours . .. 95 Provincial Park . 125 If You Like… . 21 Sleeping . 96 Kootenay National Month by Month . 24 Eating . 104 Park & Radium Hot Springs . 126 Itineraries . 26 Drinking & Golden . 128 Activities . 30 Entertainment . 108 Family Travel . 38 Shopping . 109 Travel with Pets . 42 RONNIE CHUA / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / CHUA RONNIE © SHUTTERSTOCK / VIEWFINDER I BANFF SUMMER ARTS FESTIVAL (P25) BRIAN LASENBY / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / BRIAN LASENBY PIKA (P249), JASPER NATIONAL PARK Contents UNDERSTAND JASPER NATIONAL GLACIER NATIONAL The Parks PARK . 130 PARK . .172 Today . 234 Day Hikes . 134 Day Hikes . 176 History . 236 Overnight Hikes . 143 Cycling . 185 Geology . 243 Driving . 146 Other Activities . 185 Wildlife . 246 Cycling . 147 Sights . 190 Other Activities . 151 Tours . 195 Conservation . 254 Sights . 155 Sleeping . 196 Tours . 160 Eating . 200 SURVIVAL Sleeping . 161 Drinking & Eating . 167 Entertainment . 201 GUIDE Drinking & Shopping . 201 Entertainment . 170 Health & Safety . 258 AROUND Clothing & GLACIER NATIONAL Equipment . 264 PARK . 206 Directory A–Z . 267 West Glacier . 207 Transportation . 275 St Mary . 208 Index . .. 281 East Glacier . 210 Blackfeet Indian Map Legend . 287 Reservation . 211 Whitefish . 213 WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK . 216 Day Hikes . 217 Driving . 220 Cycling . 222 Other Activities . .. 223 Sights . 227 Tours . 227 Sleeping . .. 227 SPECIAL FEATURES Eating . 231 Drinking & Activities . 30 Entertainment . 231 Family Travel . 38 Shopping . 231 Travel with Pets . 42 Wildlife . 246 Clothing & Equipment Checklist . 266 SPIRIT ISLAND, MALIGNE LAKE (P159) ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 Itineraries Jasper •# É •# Icefields Parkway É •# Banff É CANADA Waterton Lakes •# É USA Glacier •# 2 WEEKS Rocky Mountain Road Trip This once-in-a-lifetime trip takes in four parks and covers pretty much everything the Rocky Mountains have to offer. Start out with three days exploring Glacier and the magnificent mountain scenery around Going-to-the-Sun Rd and warming up with some short hikes around Many Gla- cier. On day four, head north across the Canadian border for more hiking in Waterton Lakes, followed by afternoon tea and spectacular vistas at the Prince of Wales Hotel. Spend the next day driving north to Banff, your base for the next four days. How you divide the time is up to you, but make sure you factor in the gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain, wildlife spotting around Vermilion Lakes and the Bow Valley Pkwy, a boat trip across Lake Minnewanka and at least one day hike. Day 10 is set aside for more mind-blowing scenery around Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, followed on day 11 by a drive up the Icefields Pkwy – it won’t take long for you to realize why it’s often dubbed the world’s most spectacular road. Round the trip off with three days in Jasper, includ- ing a cruise on Maligne Lake, a day hike, a ride on the Jasper Skytram and a dip in Miette Hot Springs. 27 Icefields •# Parkway Burgess É Banff •# É National Shale •# Park É Lake Louise É ÷# •# PLAN YOUR TRIP Moraine Lake C-Level •# Golden É ÷# Lake Cirque •# Minnewanka Yoho •# É •# National Johnston Park Canyon •# É É Bow Valley É •# Stanley •# É Banff Town Glacier Parkway É •# Sunshine ÷# Meadows Kootenay IT National I Park NERAR É I ES É Radium Hot Beyond Banff Springs Banff Essentials •# 1 5 WEEK Beyond Banff DAYS Banff Essentials This itinerary combines day hiking around This five-day itinerary squeezes in Banff’s Banff with a side trip into the neighboring key sights, with the emphasis on sightsee- national parks in British Columbia. ing rather than hiking. For the first few days, base yourself in Kick off with a day exploring Banff Banff Town and spend the time break- Town, a lively mini-metropolis with a cos- ing in those boots. Start with a gorgeous mopolitan mix of shops, bistros, pubs and afternoon stroll to see Bow Falls and the museums. Check in for some chateau luxury fantastically shaped hoodoos just east at the historic Fairmont Banff Springs Ho- of downtown along the Bow River. Later tel, followed by a day exploring Lake Min- in the week, hike up to an icefield at C- newanka, canoeing on the Bow River and Level Cirque or trek through the colorful relaxing in the Upper Hot Springs Pool. wildflowers of . Sunshine Meadows On day three, drive out of Banff and From Banff, head west across the Alber- detour off the Trans-Canada Hwy and onto ta–British Columbia border into Kootenay the Bow Valley Pkwy. Keep your eyes National Park. Take the time to hike peeled for wildlife, and don’t miss the fa- up to Stanley Glacier before chilling in mous waterfalls of Johnston Canyon. By the ‘hot’ and ‘cool’ pools of Radium Hot mid-afternoon, you’ll reach the iconic sight Springs, both fed from a volcanic spring of Lake Louise and nearby Moraine hidden deep beneath the mountainside. Lake, both renowned for their sapphire- blue waters and stunning mountain set- From Radium, the route loops north via tings. Spend day four stretching your legs, Golden, a lively little town. From here, the either on the dramatic trail along the Plain road heads east along the Kicking Horse of Six Glaciers, or on the steep climb to Valley into Yoho National Park, where Lake Agnes and the Beehives. you can spend the remaining few days admiring the sights: don’t miss Emerald On day five, drive along the breathtak- Lake, Takakkaw Falls and a guided walk to ing Icefields Pkwy, passing jagged peaks, the fossil fields of the Burgess Shale. mighty glaciers and sparkling lakes. 28 •# Miette Hot A Weekend in Jasper Springs Jasper’s Classic Hikes Maligne É Canyon É End of Trail Skyline Trail PLAN YOUR TRIP Medicine •# •# •# •# Lake Jasper Town •# É É É Old Fort Point Loop É É É •#•# Start of Maligne Lake & •# Skyline Mary Schäffer Loop Path of the Trail Glacier & Cavell IT Meadows Trails Icefields I NERAR •# Parkway ÷# Jasper National I É Park ES Columbia •# Icefield 3 A Weekend 1 Jasper’s DAYS in Jasper WEEK Classic Hikes Even with only a long weekend at your You’ve seen Jasper’s must-see sights, so disposal, it’s still possible to get a taste of now’s the time for something a bit more what makes Jasper special. Base yourself challenging with this hike-centric itinerary. in Jasper Town, and take three little day Warm up with some easy hikes around excursions. town. The steep but short Old Fort Point On the first day, tick off Jasper Town: loop takes you to a vantage point high get an early morning ticket for the Jasper above the Athabasca River, while the Skytram, visit the museum, pick up lunch Maligne Canyon trail leads you past from the Bear’s Paw Bakery, then spend an spectacular canyon views without ever afternoon at Patricia and Pyramid Lakes. straying too far from civilization. Stroll along the Discovery Trail as the sun Now you’re ready for the wilder stuff. sets, with a smart dinner at Evil Dave’s. The two- to three-day Skyline Trail is On day two, pack a picnic from Patricia without doubt one of North America’s pre- St Deli and drive along Maligne Lake Rd – mier overnight hikes, taking in everything a hot spot for wildlife. Watch for bear and from snowy peaks and glacial lakes to moose as you wind through the wildlife lofty passes with mind-boggling views. You corridor towards Medicine Lake, then don’t even have to rough it, thanks to the head for nearby Maligne Lake for a guid- cozy Shovel Pass Lodge. ed cruise to tiny Spirit Island and an early After the exertion, it’s time to sit back evening walk on the . Mary Schäffer Loop and let the views come to you. Spend a day On your last day, it’s time to hit the trail. driving south along the Jasper section of Jasper has lots of day hikes, but it’s hard the Icefields Pkwy, and finish up with a to top the spectacular Path of the Glacier visit to the Columbia Icefield, the largest and Cavell Meadows Trails. Reward area of ice this side of the North Pole. Most yourself with an evening soak at Miette people trundle up in an Ice Explorer, but Hot Springs, followed by farewell drinks a guided walk will give you an even more and dinner at Jasper Brewing Company. memorable perspective. 29 Waterton •# Gems of Glacier CANADA East Glacier to Waterton USA É PLAN YOUR TRIP É ÷# •# Glacier Highline É National Trail Many Park •# Glacier St Mary •# St Mary Logan Lake IT •# •#Pass I Going- NERAR É É É É to-the- É Sun Road •# É I ES Lake É McDonald •# Two Medicine Agpar •# Valley East Glacier 3 Gems of Glacier 1 DAYS WEEK to Waterton Three days in Glacier will bag you the This trip focuses on the eastern side of highlights if you don’t stray too far from the Rockies in Glacier National Park, us- the Going-to-the-Sun Rd.