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North-West History 11 NORTH-WEST HISTORY an Exploring Expedition Fitted out for Examination of the Inland Country Around Nicol Bay, a Little North of by Liir

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North-West History 11 NORTH-WEST HISTORY an Exploring Expedition Fitted out for Examination of the Inland Country Around Nicol Bay, a Little North of by Liir 18 T'he \Ve.tern Au.trallan Historical Society North-West History 11 NORTH-WEST HISTORY an exploring expedition fitted out for examination of the inland country around Nicol Bay, a little north of By lIIr. A. R. RICHARDSON Exmouth Gulf. [R_ berore the Society, M.8lrch 3D, 1928] A SURVEY F. T. Gregory's Expedition It is no doubt unfortunate, more especially from an This when equipped and manned, started away in historical point of view, that no connected and compre­ the little schooner Dolphin, under leadership of Surveyor hensive history of the early settlement of the northern F. T. Gregory, with several good bushmen, such as Melak, areas of Western Australia, from, say, the Geraldton Maitland Brown, Shakespear e Hall, Edmund Brockman, district to as far north as Wyndham, has been written, James Harding, Pemberton Walcott, John McCourt and nor the chief incidents connected with the exploration -- Jones. and settlement of this extensive area of territory record­ ed by those who took part in the enterprises connected No doubt the majority of these gentlemen and youths with such se ttlement. were real bushmen and with resourcefulness able to meet and grapple with any emergencies, difficulties or dan­ The location and growth of these settlements was gers. in a way scattered and spasmodic. Settlement from the Geraldton end was thrown out from the earlier settle­ In due course they landed their party, horses, equip­ ments around York, Northam, and Toodyay by the Bur­ ment and stores in Nicol Bay in the month of May, 1861, geses, Moores, Morriseys, Crowthers, Padburys, not far from the mouth of the Maitland River-Gregory Churches, Wittenooms, Von Bibras and many other fa­ naming this river after Maitland Brown. They then fol­ milies. Then reaching further north and also making lowed up the Maitland River till its upper branches a jump over some 700 miles of unoccupied territory was merged into the Fortescue, which they followed through due to early exploration ventures of the brothers Aug­ very difficult hilly country till they reached some of its ustus and Frank T. Gregory in 1861, and even before upper reaches of water, consisting of deep pools, and that. This brought into notice and history the large also struck that marvellous stream of running water pastoral areas of Nicol Bay, De Grey, Ashburton (On­ which they called the Millstream, now so well-known as slow), Broome (Roebuck Bay), and other adjoining forming part of the Millstream sheep station. They localities, and this is the district which. owing to per­ then sought to strike into and through the Hamersley sonal connection with the pioneer settlement. I know Range in the direction of Mt. Augustus on the Gascoyne most about. River, and located. I believe, by the Gregorys' brother As mentioned with fuller details in my book, "Early Augustus on a previous exploring trip. But after ter­ Memories of the Great Nor'-West" reports by individual rible difficulties in the Hamersley Ranges and after travellers calling in at some of the ports or shelter­ crossing the Ashburton River named by Gregory, they (thoug~ ~ithout struck south-westerly, encountering a rather long stretch spots dotted along the coast any resi­ of spinifex, hilly and rather waterless country. They dent inhabitants other than the aboriginals) stated that penetrated some 60 or 80 miles into this and just sighted promising looking country for pastoral settlement lay Mt. Augustus when Greg-ory decided to turn back on his along the coast between Shark Bay and King's Sound, tracks until again reaching the Fortescue River. which now known as Derby, and more particularly in the vicin­ r~aching ,e~.rs. he then followed up. striking some considerable stretches ity of Nicol Bay. These reports the of of goood grassy plains. Thence crossing the watershed some of the residents around Perth m the early sixties, di.viding the waters.of the upper Fortescue and Delney some of whom were not satisfied with their prospects Rivers and attemptmg to penetrate inland beyond the as sheep farmers in the older districts of York, Northa.m, upper sources of the Delney and Oakover Rivers he Williams, etc., they urged the Government to organise again struck rather barren and waterless country,'and The \Vestern Australian Hilltorical Society North-West History 21 while he and Maitland Brown attempted a hurried ex­ .toval areas J~bout 160 miles farther east) which Greg­ p~oration of the surrounding country, towardsMt. Me­ £lfyhads.peClallyspoken of and emphasised as some of Pherson, they nearly perished for want of water and .the best country he had seen. Mr. Charles Nairn was were precious glad to get back to their depot camp. left inicharge of the stock, it being the intention and From here they. followed on down the Delney and Oak­ plan of the campaign to follow the first shipment with over Rivers. crossing and traversing many miles of good a. second load. These sheep and livestock and plant pastoral. country, now the scene and locality of scores were successfully travelled (after rains) overland to the of good sheep stations. They finally reached the large low~r De Grey where the De Grey station was first es­ grassy plains characteristic of the Lower Delney River tablIshed.. Shortly after, other venturesome spirits be­ and the summer drawing nigh, the weather hot, and ga'fi. to 'think out plans for following this bold lead of old water, except in the watercourses, becoming scarce, they Mt.PadburY,and John Wellard next chartered the same hurried on as fast as their now jaded horses would per­ 'ship; .the Tien Tsin, and put on board a shipment of mit. keeping a westerly course never very many miles a~)Out500 ewes, horses, and some cattle and outfit. He from the sea and salt marshes. and-crossing the rivers himse lf went with .them in person, taking Mr. Shakes­ Strellcv. Turner. Yule, Sherlock, Eastern Harding, and pea:e. Hall, John McCourt and a party to work the ex­ mafl1 Harding, finally reaching their original camps-on p,~dltlon: . These were also landed at Butcher's Inlet in the lower Maitland River, Gregory reports in his valu­ lien TS1n Harbour in 1863-4: able old journal that though much of the country had been hilly and spinifexy. yet there were large areas of . La~er.on other parties followed-John Withnell grassy plains and stretches of useful edible bush coun­ With his wife and two young children and Mrs. With­ trv and softer kinds of spinifex, all well adapted for the nell's sister, lYIiss F. H~ncock, with a ~hipload of stock, est;thlishment of sheep and cattle runs and intersected horses, etc., mthebrtg Kestrel attempted to land in with creeks and rivers, some with fairly deep pools, but Port.Hedla~d to he near the De Grey country, but after no doubt many of which would possibly dry during the landl1lg' their stock they found no fresh water obtain­ long hot summers and spasmodic droughts'. able and had to r e-ernbark them; losing nearly half of the 700 sheep and most of their horses. They sailed The Effect of Exploration back.to Cossack (then known as TienTsin harbour) and Bu~cher's It was then the written and spoken accounts .of Inlet, where they landed them and established t~eIr F. 1'. Gregory's exploring journey and travels excited homestead at Eramuckadoo Pool on the Harding the pioneer spirit of Irishmen in Western Australia .and River, now the site of Roebourne town. reaching as far as Victoria. One of the first to be moved ~ ia a practical manner and to put his impressions. into . i\:nothe.r party and company (Mount, Orkerrv and Smjth) arrived from Melbourne in the Aurifera- with action was the late ML Walter Padbury, and that sturdy about a couple of thousand ewes in the month of De­ old pioneer, with his practical tempen which had little cember, landin.g their stock and plant under the burning respect for mere.ctheories, after thinking out his plans heatof a tropical December and losing a good many in and 'working out the..cost of risks, got to work and c~nsequerfce. Theirdestination was also the De Grey chartered a little ship, the Tien .T'sin.cof. 254 tons (most River, where they had taken up (that is, secured by of the ships trading to W;A, in those days, ranged -Irom :lease from the Government) some 300,000 acres of Coun­ 20to 200 tons. with an occasional 300 tanner). Having fitted up the Tien Tsin for stock carrying and loaded het try. the\working partners of the company being Mr. Lamhertand Mr. Frank Mount. and their working man­ Up with about 600 sheep, some horses and outfit, away a~er. they sailed for Nicol Bay, discovering But~her's {idal Mr. McKay, a hard-headed experienced Scotchman. inlet, up which their boats could creep until -theycould "Vh.en ou.r own party and- company, consistifig of land their: stock, which they did. with .the.Jntentionof Mes,srs. Edwin Anderson, manager; McKenzie Grant, later on-travelling them, overland .to the ,D~ Greypa.sc sub-manager; my elder brother, J Eliott Richardson', The West"rn AustraUan. Historical Society North-\Ve",t Hi.tory John Edgar and the writer, a boy. of barely 18, ar.rived stock and party some thirty miles E.S.E. and establish­ on April 2, 1865, we found the parties already mentl<:llled ed the well-known Pyramid Station. and two or three other parties hailing from Swan RIver, During the following four or five months other par­ as it was then known (that is, the country around Nor­ ties and companies arrived in vessels, amongst them a tham, York and Toodyay), viz., Messrs.
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