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where GUESTBOOK® CHICAGO MULITPLE CITY NAMES HERE

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MAUI 2014-2015 MAUI MAUI MAUIwheretraveler.com

MAUGB_140700_Cover_FINAL.indd 1 6/5/14 2:14:15 PM MAUGB_140700_IFC_FINAL.indd 2 6/5/14 2:06:54 PM MAUGB_140700_IFC_FINAL.indd 1 6/5/14 2:35:16 PM LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER

A loha,

Maui is the island that famous American author, Mark Twain, once said, “I went to stay a week and remained five. I have never spent so pleasant a month before, or bade any place goodbye so regretfully.” We hope you have the same experience. The Valley Isle is consistently selected as the best island in the world, celebrated for its natural beauty, ideal climate, outdoor activities, dining, shopping and relaxed lifestyle. Here, between two covers, are many of the reasons for this distinction. In our commitment to place, culture and people, we bring you tales of Maui’s treasures on and off the beaten path. In this year’s GuestBook, our photo essay covers the radiant flora of Maui, from the island’s official flower, lokelani (small rose), to various orchids and bromeliads. I think you’ll agree that our aromatic plants are “nō ka ‘oi”—the best. As a tribute to the “Renaissance Man,” Maui resident Jill Engledow pro- vides a revealing biography of Edward Bailey who came to Hawai‘i in 1837

and stayed until 1888. Meanwhile, Paul Wood explores the leo ki‘eki‘e, the Hawaiian falsetto, a singing The diversity of flowers that bloom on Maui style that has men hitting stratsopheric notes. ranges from protea and orchids to hibiscus Writer Pati Poblete talks with chef Sheldon Simeon, whose popularity has soared since competing in and the lokelani (small the 10th season of Bravo Network’s “Top Chef: Seattle.” Now back at home in the Islands, Simeon has rose), which is the official flower of maui. opened a new restaurant, MiGRANT, in Wailea. Buy Fresh. Buy Local. This is the message that Maui chefs and farmers now embrace, promoting sustainability and food security. And beyond our fame for beaches, senior editor Simplicio Paragas proves that Maui has gained a serious reputation as a food-and-wine destination, playing host to several high- profile events that attract the talents of national and international culinary superstars. Mahalo for joining us on this island adventure. The Maui GuestBook is a small taste of a vast paradise, and we hope you enjoy the journey with us.

– Kathleen M. Pahinui, Group Publisher, Where Hawai‘i n olsso c hel © ra

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island essentials

14 FIRST LOOK 74 “fore” the special section a peek into maui’s sake of golf DINING IN PARADISE renowned sights teeing up on maui From casual to elegant, a guide to From Molokini islet to the Seven Be warned that the Valley Isle offers finding your way through Maui’s Sacred Pools at ‘Ohe‘o Gulch. top-notch golf courses. many dining options.

46 isLAND VIEWS 84 parting Shot MAUI’S REGIONS AND Rainbow Eucalyptus NEIGHBORHOODS Believed to have originated in the From West Maui beaches to the Philippines, this colorful species of road to Hāna, a mosaic of Maui tree sheds its smooth bark to reveal highlights. new colors, which gives it the Upcountry Maui: appearance of a rainbow. Makawao

west Maui: Lahaina, Kā‘anapali, on the cover and Kapalua A closeup look of a protea South Maui: ©Rachel Olsson Wailea, Kīhei, Mākena Central Maui: inside front cover The coastline along Wailea offers Kahului and Pā‘ia a stark contrast between the black East Maui: Hāna rocks and turquoise waters. Off Island: Lāna‘i, Moloka‘i ©Jenna Szerlag/Design Pics/Corbis

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island Essence

28 floral essence 36 19th century 46 top chef flowers flourish renaissance man former bravo tv across the island edward bailey program competitor From king protea and ginger to Protestant missionary possessed Humble and grounded to his orchids and red anthuriums to bird a multi-dimensional side. Filipino roots, Sheldon Simeon of paradise and hibiscus, Maui’s By jill engledow shares his passion for cooking. tropical flowers are admired for By Pati poblete their shapes and vibrant colors. 42 hawaiian By rachel olsson falsetto a unique style of singing Male singers hit high notes that go beyond the counter tenor voice. By paul wood

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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

ADVERTISING & CIRCULATION Editorial group publisher Kathleen M. Pahinui, 808.983.5441 SENIOR EDITOR Simplicio Paragas regional vice president Patti Ruesch EDITOR Kristen Nemoto ACCOUNT MANAGERS ART DIRECTOR Michael Min Katherine Ellwood, Bob Kowal, Senior Regional editorial director Margaret Martin Donna Kowalczyk, Marie Massengale associate EDITOR Rizza Ballesteros INDEPENDENT SALES CONTRACTORs Wanda Garcia-Fetherston, assistant EDITOR Summer Nakaishi Debbie De Mello contributing writers Jill Engledow, Pati Poblete, Paul Wood BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR Miao Woo contributing photographer Rachel Olsson CIRCULATION AND MARKETING DIRECTOR Sidney Louie MVP i CREATIVE PRODUCTION manager Brittany L. Kevan Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson production assistant Kaitlyn Murphy Design Director Jane Frey MVP i PRODUCTION PHOTOgraphy director Susan Strayer Director of Production Kris Miller creative coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt Product Manager Jasond Fernandez MVP i national sales photo scanning & retouch Jerry Hartman Vice President, national sales MVP i manufacturing Rick Mollineaux, 202.463.4550 & technology Director of partnerships & national Digital sales Director of manufacturing Donald Horton Bridget Duffie, 706.821.6663 TECHNICAL OPERATIONS MANAGER Tony Thorne-Booth national sales coordinator David Gately MVP i cartography & circulation MVP i EXECUTIVE General Manager, where maps Christopher Huber President Donna W. Kessler national Circulation Coordinator Noreen Altieri vice president of operations Angela E. Allen

E-mail for all of the above: chief travel editor Geoff Kohl [email protected]

1833 Kalakaua Blvd., Ste. 810 Honolulu, HI 96815 Phone: 808-955-2378; Fax: 808-955-2379 www.wheretraveler.com

Morris communications Chairman & ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where GuestBook® is produced by Morris Visitor Publications (MVP), a division of Morris Communications, Co., LLC. 725 Broad St., Augusta, GA 30901. Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications. MVP publishes Where magazine, Where® QuickGuide, IN New York, and IN London magazines, and a host of other maps, guides, and directories for business and leisure travelers, and is the publisher for the Hospitality Industry Association.Where GuestBook® publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Colorado, Dallas, Florida Gold Coast (Fort Lauderdale & Palm Beach), Fort Worth, Hawaii (the Big Island), Houston, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/ Amelia Island, Kansas City, Kaua’i, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Milwaukee, New Orleans, New York, O’ahu, Orange County, Orlando/Winter Park, Philadelphia, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, Tampa Bay, San Antonio, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle/Tacoma, Southwest Florida (Naples), Tennessee (Nashville & Memphis), Tucson, and Washington D.C. Copyright© 2014 by Morris Visitor Publications. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

Printed in the United States

MVP is a proud sponsor of Les Clefs d’Or USA

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from the charming towns of towns charming the from Kapalua, of the Hawaiian Islands, was named for the demigod Maui, the superman of of superman the Maui, demigod the for named was Islands, Hawaiian the of — Maui the Wonder Worker. The wonders of Maui are many,are the WonderMaui Worker.Maui of wonders— The tiki-tiki Maui center of the Pacific, to the royal resort of of resort royal the Pacific,to the of ­center to the beautiful curves of of curves beautiful the to Upcountry Haleakalā

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Map: ©Eureka cartography, berkeley, ca; (watercolor background and edge pattern) ©mike reagan MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 11 6/2/14 4:15:43 PM 12 MAUGB_140700_map.indd 12 HawaiianIslands navigate WHERE GUESTBOOK GUESTBOOK WHERE The Big Island has an active volcano and wonderfully diverse scenery. diverse wonderfully and volcano active an has Island Hawai‘iBig The Kaho‘olawe Highway.Hāna 54-bridge the and Haleakalā Mt. art, whale-watching, for Isle the Valleyto Come Maui uplands. pine-studded and resorts posh has Bay LovelyMānele Lāna‘i bread. sweet Moloka‘i famous and rides mule Moloka‘i Hawai‘icharm, You’llOld find more. and Harbor Pearlshopping, capital, state the beach, for Waikīkī Known O‘ahu Isle. Garden the distinguish canyons and cliffs sea Magnificent Kaua‘i Ni‘ihauThe jewelry. shell “forbidden”exquisitefor known is island Once a Navy firing range, the island is now dedicated to the preservation of Hawaiian culture. Hawaiian of preservation the to dedicated now is island the range, firing Navy a Once 6/5/14 4:19:27 PM

Map: ©Eureka cartography, berkeley, ca; (watercolor background and edge pattern) ©mike reagan MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 13 6/2/14 4:15:50 PM ALSO KNOWN AS THE VALLEY ISLE, MAUI OFFERS STUNNING CONTRASTS firstBETWEEN CASCADING WATERFALLS AND look ALPINE PEAKS TO BOHO CHIC TOWNS AND AWARD-WINNING RESORTS.

Molokini Islet Like other tourist meccas and locales on Maui and throughout the state, Molokini has an origin story. According to Hawaiian legends, Molokini was a mortal woman of great beauty who happened to be attracted to the same man that the fire Goddess Pele fancied. To rid herself of a potential romantic rival, Pele eventually turned this lovely maiden into stone. Pele’s wrath not only birthed an islet, but one of the most popular sites for snorkelers in the state. In fact, Molokini has acquired a reputation as one of the best snorkeling and diving spots on the globe. This sunken firstlook crater attracts hundreds of visitors every year who plunge into its inviting waters and marvel at the aquatic life found below the surface. Potential snorkelers should note that the island is divided into the Right and Left Tips. There are fine diving spots on both tips, known as Reef’s End, Middle Reef and Tako Flats.

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MAUGB_140700_firstlook.indd 15 6/9/14 6:45:57 PM 16 MAUGB_140700_firstlook.indd 16 WHERE GUESTBOOK GUESTBOOK WHERE summit. Haleakalā’satopfromsunrise the watch to surehair.silvery Be of coast dense with nēnē, a goose endemic to the Hawaiian Islands, and the silversword, a cactus lookalike subtropical beaches. The park is also home to endangered flora and fauna, such as the and desert forests, rain and dry houses that acres 26,000 Parkencompasses National surrounding The miles. 21 of circumference a and wide miles 2.5 deep, feet 3,000 Haleakalā’svolcano, dormant world’scratermeasureslargest the landscapes.ing As level and offers a winding odyssey of 36 miles of hiking trails, which open to fascinat- Known“Housethe as Sun,”the of Haleakalā majestically rises 10,023 feet above sea Haleakalā Call 808.572.4400 for park information. park for 808.572.4400 Call worththe drive is Hamoa Beach (pictured), awhite-sanded turquoise bay enclosed by the verdant lush of Hāna. Kīhei’sand hip-deep Kama‘ole BeachParks beach leisurelyA and swimming. Southsand in Mauifine-grain boasts most the popular. West among Maui’s Beach Launiupoko Beach BayPark, protected by Kapalua a shoreline reef, is ideal and for longboard surfing or wading Beach Wailea Beach, Kā‘anapali Beach, Fleming Kapalua’s DT with in Hāna, Maui’s 30 miles of beaches consistently rank as some of “America’s Best.” No one beach Kaihalulu Wai‘ānapanapaof at sands isgranules black red Fromstriking alikedramatic the the to MauiState ParkEast on in Maui, Beaches The 6/9/14 6:46:10 PM

(previous spread) ©Pacific Stock - Design Pics/SuperStock; (this page from top) ©David Olsen/age fotostock/SuperStock; w©Pierre Leclerc MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 17 6/5/14 6:13:17 PM 18 MAUGB_140700_firstlook.indd 18 irst lookFirst WHERE GUESTBOOK GUESTBOOK WHERE to a blood red reminding visitors of its dark past. dark its of visitors reminding red blood a to blues crystal the turning shrimp, with covered are caves the of floors the spring, every But history. tragic a such imagine to hard it makes caves freshwater these of serenity murder. brutal her calm with cool, tragically The ends caves. tale the The of waters the within glistening reflection her spots husband her effort, much After caverns. secret its Popu‘alaea, wife of King Ka‘akea who sought refuge from her husband’s cruelty in one of of is told story The them. of one Wai‘anapanapais the Caves of waters glistening the and queens, and kings Hawaiian by graced sites with filled are Hawai‘i of islands The Wai‘anapanapaCaves walking map. walking Lāhainā Townthe helpful by Foundation.StopCommittee’sa Restoration Action for office Lāhainā the by managed now are that sites historical of tour walking self-guided a on days, seafaring scandalous the to origins Hawaiian town’sNative the from Lāhainā’spast, from plantation-erabuildings co-exist here, allwithin fewashort blocks. Uncover several epochs and relics whaling 19th-century forts, military old temples, Buddhist Hawai‘i. of Kingdom Beforeitwas the rowdy whaling epicenter ofthe Pacific, Lāhainā was the first capital ofthe structureroadarchitecture,and carefully beenhavewhichpreserved generations. overthe its through see Maui,”to Lāhainā’sbareof crown lays the history in “jewel the called Often HistoricLāhain Milepost 6 Mokulele Hwy.Mokulele 6 Milepost(Hwy. 808.875.1582, 311), Canada.andAlaska as awayfeatheredfardiversity visitorsofasafrom birds,withalong wetland endangered Hawai‘i’s observe to people for place notable a it make here occur that conditions seasonal The mountains. Maui west the from watershed 56-square-mile a for basin Islands.natural Hawaiian a the is refugeamong remaining wetlandsThe natural few the of one is and acres 700 approximately measures Refuge Wildlife National Pond Mā‘alaea,andKeālia Kīhei of towns thebetweensouth-central coast,the along Located Ke WildlifeRefuge ā liaPond National 648 Wharf St., visit www.lahaina.com.648 visit St., Wharf www.fws.gov/kealiapond. 6/9/14 6:46:19 PM

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‘Ohe‘o Gulch Imagine the most lush island scene of waterfalls spilling over glistening pools and you still would not be able to visually prepare for the sights and sensory overload that comes with visiting the ‘Ohe‘o Gulch. Located at the Haleakalā National Park where the crater meets the sea, these series of freshwater pools stream seemlessly into one another creating one of the most magical natural wonders in the world. Swimming is encouraged only when conditions allow. The 2-mile Pipiwai Trail follows a path of towering waterfalls and infinity pools leading hikers to the base of Waimoku Falls, a 400-foot cascading beauty. d en ©Donna Hay

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Ho‘okipa Unlike just any breathtaking white sandy beach with a rocky shore- line, alongside the Hāna Highway is Ho‘okipa Beach, a windsurfing mecca. Waves as large as 20 feet pound the shore during the winter months as windsurfers from all over the world challenge themselves to the risky conditions. Sports photographers line the Ho‘okipa lookout during these months to capture the countless multi-colored triangles swaying and swooping along the horizon.

Nākālele Blowhole As you might expect from any trip along the coast, a drive along Honoapi‘ilani Highway (Highway 30) from Kapalua to Wailuku boasts breathtaking views worthy of pit stops to snap some photos and much-needed breaths of fresh air. At the northern most point of Maui, powerful waves of the ocean crash and wear away at the lava shelf on shore. The result is the Nākālele Blowhole, geyser-like spouts of water gushing up to 100 feet in the air with each crash of the wave. The sight, although striking, should be enjoyed from afar. The trailhead located after Mile Marker #38 offers danger- free access to the view.

Maui Ocean Center abo; © HTA Many curiosities towards the majestic unknowns of ocean life have S been quenched at this state-of-the-art “Hawaiian Aquarium.” Short encounters and glimpses are elongated with walk-throughs of the 750,000 gallon Open Ocean Exhibit that teems with 2,000 different fish, various sharks and rays. Learn about the intricate patterns and

lives of coral at the outdoor touch pools and come face to face with © I van or Johnson/hta; sea turtles all the while learning about Hawai‘i’s natural history. 192 Ma‘alaea Road, 808.270.7000, www.mauioceancenter.com. rom top) ( f rom © T top)

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt Floral Bouquet Maui’s diverse climate and fertile soil allows exotic flowers to flourish. Photography by rachel olsson

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MAUGB_140700_PhotoEssayFinal.indd 30 6/9/14 5:34:25 PM On the slopes of Haleakalā, along the far eastern shores of Maui, plants of varying colors and shapes—from protea to orchids—thrive, thanks to warm temperatures, muted light and consistent rainfall throughout the year.

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt Sprawling across 8 acres, kula botanical garden offers a glimpse of indigenous plants in a serene setting. a stroll through the property reveals striking rock formations, a covered bridge, waterfalls, koi pond and a large gazebo that overlooks the Bird Sanctuary and Duck Ponds.

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt exhibit and carved tiki statues.tiki carved and exhibit featuresjacksona chameleon also world.garden the the in else anywhere than here, Protea,“pincushion” varietieshybridized more of currentlyisland the volcanicsloof pes proteacoolgrownthe are on muted In Pullquotefrom here go would text Pullquotefrom here go would text Pullquotefrom here go would text Pullquotefrom doloremodolorenibh nim dolent nos amet estoyodolorad magna magnibhblamconse si doloremodoloredolor quat,nim dolent vel doloborDuipsum townRegency center p astel hues, astel perili Haleakal pictured Maui produces ā . WHERE GUESTBOOK WHERE 6/9/14 5:35:47 PM 35 Maui’s EdwardRenaissance Man of the Bailey Sandwich Islands By Jill Engledow Photo credit p t book gotham 5.5/9 Photo

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MAUGB_140700_edwardbailey.indd 36 6/5/14 5:43:02 PM rom high on an ancient sand dune, Edward Bailey looked down on Wailuku more than a century Fago and captured in oils a pastoral vision of the little town and the cloud-capped West Maui Mountains. Bailey’s Wailuku Plantation shows us a Maui that otherwise might have been forgotten, one of taro flourishing in the ‘Īao Valley, smoke rising from the Wailuku Sugar Company mill, and the tiny village that now is Maui’s county seat. But Bailey was far more than a painter. He came to the Islands as a Protestant missionary and worked at many tasks to serve God, care for his adopted community, and feed his family. “Wailuku Plantation” is a fitting example of his many skills. It shows the Ka‘ahumanu Church he designed and sugarcane fields he planted. In the distance is the district of Waikapu, whose boundaries Bailey surveyed. Hidden by greenery is the school where he taught and the first bridge ever to cross the ‘Īao Stream, engineered and built by Bailey. Bailey was such a Renaissance man that it’s diffi- cult to summarize his life’s work. His biographer, Linda McCullough Decker, encountered this when trying to come up with a subtitle for her book, “Edward Bailey of Maui.” Which of Bailey’s many professions should she highlight? In the end, she chose Teacher & Naturalist, Engineer & Artist, touching on a few of the occupations practiced by this ver- satile Maui pioneer. Today, Bailey’s paintings offer a visual record of the island found nowhere else, and letters to and by him (quoted extensively in Decker’s book) provide a narrative of his remarkable life. The house he lived in stands as the Bailey House Museum, home of the Maui Historical Society and its collection of archives and artifacts of Maui history. Bailey came to Hawai‘i as a teacher in 1837. A farmer’s son from Holden, Massachusetts, he had been swept up in

Photo credit p t book gotham 5.5/9 Photo “Wailuku Plant ation” by Edward Bailey.

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MAUGB_140700_edwardbailey.indd 37 6/5/14 5:43:44 PM a wave of Christian religious fervor that inspired hundreds Bailey came to of young Americans to evangelize “heathen” peoples across Hawai‘i in 1837, the globe. In 1820, the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions sent the First Company of missionaries swept up in a wave to the Sandwich Islands, as Hawai‘i was then known. Bailey of Christian religious was to join the Eighth Company. An experienced teacher, he lacked one important req- fervor that inspired uisite — a wife. The mission board required that young men be married before leaving for foreign shores lest they hundreds of young be tempted by the native women, and pious young women Americans to evan- with a yearning for adventure were often happy to oblige. Bailey found his wife, Caroline Hubbard, within his own gelize “heathen” peo- hometown congregation. ples across the globe. The newlyweds set off on a difficult five-month sea voy- age around Cape Horn and, after stints at mission stations on O‘ahu and Hawai‘i Island, arrived at Maui’s Lahainaluna Seminary in Lahaina. The first secondary school west of the Rockies, Lahainaluna was established in 1831 to train Hawaiian men to be preachers, teachers, and civil servants. These educated men would need proper Christian wives, so a boarding school for Hawaiian girls opened a few years later in Wailuku, on royal land given to the mission by the gov- ernor of Maui. Transferred across the island to the Wailuku mission station in 1840, the Baileys took over the Wailuku Female Seminary in 1842. They would live in the school’s stone buildings for more than 45 years, teaching, rearing five sons, and farming to raise food for their students and themselves. He taught the three R’s, as well as science, singing, and Sunday school. He remodeled the school buildings, cultivated what one visitor described as “the prettiest missionary’s garden in the islands,” and organized operations so that “inside and out good man- agement and industry is displayed,” another visitor wrote. What few quiet moments he could find in his demand- ing schedule, Bailey used to study, read, or draw in an effort to keep up his own intellectual development. Fascinated by botany, he collected and drew local flora, sending specimens to collections around the world. A poor economy in the United States and changing ideas about evangelization led to the closing of the Wailuku Female Seminary in 1849, and the Hawai‘i missions were (From top) Bailey required to become self-supporting. Already stretched thin House as it stands today in despite a frugal lifestyle, Bailey now had to provide the entire Wailuku, and as it appeared support for his family. in Bailey's day, with the owner himself in the garden. Fortunately, the mission board gave those missionaries (Opposite) “Wailuku Female who would stay in Hawai‘i the houses they occupied, and Seminary” by Edward Bailey. Bailey was able to purchase the school’s farmland with $90

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MAUGB_140700_edwardbailey.indd 40 6/5/14 5:46:11 PM Bailey wrote that the taste for moneymaking had been left out of his makeup; one of the few abilities he did not possess.

he had earned by surveying during his vacations and on Saturdays. He also persuaded the mission board to give him the school buildings, where he opened a private English- language day school. But ill health caused by a sedentary lifestyle soon forced him to close the school and take up more active work. Bailey later wrote that the taste for moneymaking had been left out of his makeup; it seems to have been one of the few abilities he did not possess. He worked hard, laying out roads, assessing taxes and supervising government schools. He also grew sugarcane and built a mill on his property. Market variations made it a struggle for E. Bailey & Sons Sugar Plantation to earn a profit, and Bailey began to paint in the hope of raising funds. His work eventually was exhib- ited in Philadelphia, San Francisco and Paris, but did not make him rich. In old age, he was dependent on his sons. Yet Bailey left a valuable legacy in his paintings of land- scapes, mission churches, sugar mills and his own home. He also left family — two of his sons lived out their lives on Maui, one married to a Hawaiian woman of noble descent — and Bailey’s descendants are strong supporters of the Maui Historical Society today. Set in a tranquil garden, the Bailey House Museum includes the three-story home where Edward and Caroline raised their boys. It is the pri- (From top) Bailey at his mary repository for Bailey’s paintings, many of which are on easel, capturing the display and some of which have been restored through an immense beauty of Maui in ongoing project. “The restored paintings show more clearly the late 1800s; and a por- the beauty of Maui and the details of life in the nineteenth trait of Bailey showing his full, white beard and for- century,” Decker says. The museum also houses Maui’s larg- mal dress. est public collection of ancient Hawaiian artifacts, which (Opposite) “Wailuku Valley, represent every aspect of life in pre-contact Hawai’i – from 1885” by Edward Bailey. fishing to warfare, food preparation to weaving. He spent his final years in California, where he painted every day. A report from his 89th birthday party said he was “a wonder and an inspiration to his friends.” Though he died soon thereafter, in 1903 — the last male survivor of the mis- sionaries sent by the New England mission board to evange- lize the Sandwich Islands — thankfully his work keeps vividly alive our memories of those faraway days on Maui.

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MAUGB_140700_edwardbailey.indd 41 6/5/14 5:46:57 PM The True

LEO KI‘EKI‘E,FALSETTO HAWAIIAN FALSETTO, CONTINUES TO THRIVE IN THE ISLANDS BY PAUL WOOD PHOTO CREDIT BOOK GOTHAM 5.5/9PT PHOTO

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MAUGB_140700_Truefalsetto.indd 42 6/6/14 10:13:35 AM e all know that voice, and maybe we accept it as com- monplace — the beefy Hawaiian man with hands the size of catcher’s mitts cradling Wa minuscule ukulele and lifting his voice high, higher than tenor or even counter tenor till he breaks into the stratospheric registers that are natural only to women. Leo ki‘eki‘e is the name of this acrobatic Island singing style, meaning voice (leo) that tow- ers to the heights. The sound sticks to one’s memory like a first kiss. For me it’s the mid-seventies and the Ho‘opi‘i Brothers, Richard and Solomon, on the beach at Kä‘anapali celebrating the visit of several extraordinarily large and beautiful women from Ni‘ihau. The women had come to demonstrate their tradi- tion of stringing lei with tiny shells, their enormous fingers reducing the shells to microscopic gems. The brothers stood on the sand in matching white shoes, black slacks, and perfect blue-toned aloha shirts slamming their little four-string instru- ments as if to cut them in two with their fingers, and then the women rose up to dance. They danced like clouds. Under the spell of the brothers’ intense harmonies, which must have been heard for miles around, powered by their 1,000-watt smiles, the pull of gravity relaxed and let us all somehow ascend. The falsetto tradition of the brothers — born and raised in Kahakuloa, a remote West Maui seaside village — derives from the missionary-style Congregational church. Richard tells me, “In the early part of the years of our reigning kings, it was men-folk who did all the dancing, singing, performing. It was kapu (forbidden) for women to do any type of entertainment.” So in order for church choirs to achieve traditional harmonies, the feminine registers had to be scaled by those men who could get there. (It was King Kaläkaua in the late 19th century who relaxed this gender-kapu, “for the betterment of all,” says Uncle Richard.) The two Ho‘opi‘i boys really had that God-given knack, which they honed at church gatherings and conferences by singing himeni (hymns) a cappella. Over time they broadened their repertoire to include all manner of Hawaiian song, especially paniolo (cowboy) tunes with some of the finest yodeling ever recorded. This led to a 1997 National Endowment for the Arts Folk Heritage Fellowship then, after Sol’s death in 2006, a solo career for Richard, some Grammys, and the perpetuation of an annual leo ki‘eki‘e contest. (The 12th such will take place September 28 in Kapalua, male contestants only.) One previous contest winner, Kamakakehau Fernandez (left), has hurled himself into the proving grounds of all Hawaiian music — the hotel lobbies of Waikïkï. Being a young man from an outer island, Kamaka admits to feeling somewhat rattled by the pressure of singing for his supper. He calls it “putting in your time. It’s paid practice.” But it really represents his commitment to the craft. “I recognize that this is a gift. I am serving the Creator of that gift,” he says. That Creator has a frisky sense of fun, though. If you were to hear Kamaka’s piercing pure high tones and then round the corner to locate the source, you would gawk at

Opposite page: Kamakakehau Fernandez produces light with his eyes and magic with his voice. This page, the Ho‘opi‘i Brothers, Solomon (left) and Richard (right and above), enjoyed a long and

(ON THE LEFT) ©DANA EDMUNDS; ©OLIVIER KONING; (THIS PAGE) ©MOUNTAIN APPLE COMPANY HAWAII. APPLE COMPANY (ON THE ©MOUNTAIN LEFT) EDMUNDS; ©DANA ©OLIVIER (THIS KONING; PAGE) loving career as a musical duo before Solomon’s passing in 2006.

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt Island Views Maui’s geographic landscape boasts winding roads, rolling hills and stunning beaches.

Hāna The road to Hāna is long and winding, hugging Maui’s northeastern shore where unspoiled terrain is reminiscent of yesteryear. The three-hour drive—if you’re leaving from Lāhainā or Kīhei—stretches along 50 miles past taro patches, over single- lane bridges, waterfall pools and lush rainforests. You’ll find some of the island’s most striking beaches here: the black sand beach of Wai‘ānapanapa State Park, the red sands at Kaihalulu, and Hāmoa Beach, which consistently ranks among the best in the world. You’ll see the largest heiau (ancient Hawaiian temple) in the Pacific at Kahanu Garden, the resting place of aviator Charles Lindbergh in Kīpahulu, and made-on-Maui products at the famous Hasegawa General Store, a more than century-old family business. Hāna Highway is the only road that connects the town with the rest of the island.

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MAUGB_140700_islandview.indd 47 6/10/14 11:41:15 AM 48 MAUGB_140700_islandview.indd 48 island views island WHERE GUESTBOOK GUESTBOOK WHERE dren, who love to splash in the kid- the in splash to love who dren, chil- for paradise are sands soft Its Moloka‘i. of island neighbor the of view clear a water,reveals blue kling spar- into leading sand golden of crest Bay,Nāpili a shoreline. of stretch this mark that hotels cozy and miniums condo- timeshares, attracted have that features very the bays, picturesque andcoves rocky with lined Nāpiliare and Kahana Kapalua, and Kā‘anapali Westthe of Between resorts Maui Kahana & Kahana N āpili Shopping Center.Shopping Gateway Kahana at Grill Kahana to SteakhouseAngus Black RB Pubto Company’sBrewingMaui from Brew ranging options, dining and shopping several has Kahana sights. snorkeling sparkling its and CoveHonokeana near Point, Nāpili at congregate to like they one, see they when thing or turtles, sea green Hawaiian Because toe. tiny a stub to rock a nary with waves sized , know a good good a know honu, destinations in the world. world. the in destinations windsurfing top the of one Parkis Ho‘okipanearby Beachmonths, winter the In town. of outskirts eastern the on found Mission, Buddhist Mantokuji the Pā‘iaand of outside so or mile a about Road, Buddhist Temple,Alawai on located Rinzai the by complemented is vibe holistic enthusiasts. This outdoor mellow-yet-obsessive of community this to cater which galleries, garde avant- and imports Indian East parlor.tattoo fashioned old an even and bakeries stores, antique shops, surf boutiques, specialty fine of array an has also town beach little quaint goods. This eco-friendly other and products hemp-made carry that shops Boho-chic and cafes trendy Company,with lined Pā‘iais today Sugar & Commercial Hawaiian on centered town plantation a Once Pā‘ IA 6/10/14 11:41:22 AM

(previous spread) ©Douglas Peebles Photography/Alamy. (this page, from left) ©Tor Johnson; ©Max Earey MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 49 6/2/14 4:47:53 PM island views

Upcountry A world away from beach resorts, Climbing toward the 10,023-foot the bucolic scenery in this part of the Haleakalā summit, you’ll see livestock, island reflects its agricultural and pan- lavender and fruit farms on sprawl- iolo (cowboy) roots. On the slopes of ing, verdant green farmland. Onions, Haleakalā, you’ll drive by ranches and exotic protea, autumn persimmons farms in the communities of Makawao and perennial botanical wonders thrive and Kula, which is the location of in volcanic soil. The air is scented Hawai‘i’s only eight-sided church that with eucalyptus and pine; the forests was built between 1884 and 1897 by of Olinda resound with birdsong. In Portuguese immigrants. Be sure to stop the spring, jacaranda petals paint the to see the hand-carved altar and works road purple beneath the shade of their of art for the Stations of the Cross. majestic trees. anger W ©Max ©Max

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Kapalua Surrounded by the protected West Maui rainforest, Kapalua Resort is nestled between two prominent sanctuaries: Pu‘u Kukui Watershed Preserve, at the summit of the West Maui Mountains, and Honolua- Mokulē‘ia Marine Life Conservation KĪhei District, the shoreline jewel of the This South Maui community offers you can see Molokini, Lāna‘i and the 22,000-acre resort. The resort honors a happy confluence of weather and West Maui Mountains. At its north its plantation heritage by reaching to scenery. Once home to a collection end, Keālia Pond National Wildlife its past for inspiration, encouraging a of fishermen’s grass shacks on a Refuge is a wetland with an ocean sense of wellness and sustainability. The dusty scrubland, Kīhei is today lined view, and to its south, the tony Wailea area is also home to the Five-Diamond with condominiums, small hotels, resort shimmers with glitterati. Winter Ritz-Carlton, Kapalua, which is steps restaurants and shops—and six miles whale watching is a bonus, and year- away from the pristine waters of D.T. of beaches. From its three popular round, night life buzzes with club and Fleming Beach. The property offers beach parks, Kama‘ole I, II and III, restaurant options. natural beauty, tropical rainforest hikes to ancient Hawaiian burial grounds, championship golf and tennis and award-winning restaurants. Formerly a pineapple plantation, Kapalua is well known for its unwavering support of

the Hawaiian arts. ©iofoto/shutterstock or Johnson/hta; (from left) © T

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MĀkena A historic church, a 3,300-foot- and Golf Resort is a haven of golf long beach, a large cinder cone and and watersports, and its neighbor, a stellar golf resort stand out in Keawala‘i Congregational Church, is Mākena, a South Maui development a coral-and-lava oceanfront landmark. near the end of the road going south. Founded in 1832, the church built Oneloa, “Big Beach,” is a scenic, its first structure of pili grass. After tock wide stretch of shoreline adjoining weather changes, disrepair and several S uper Pu‘u Ōlai, a 360-foot cinder cone restorations, it stands today as a after which the secluded “Little symbol of resilience and commitment Beach” is named. The Mākena Beach to Hawaiian tradition. onnection/ C tock tock © S

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Wailea With only 10 inches of rain every year, this South Maui jewel is a haven of recreation and relaxation. Wailea’s planned community of luxury hotels, manicured golf courses, and upscale shopping and dining are everything you Kahului-Wailuku need to get away from it all. Mōkapu, Historic, charming and diverse, oldest on the island. On the first Ulua, Wailea and Polo beaches offer Wailuku, Maui’s municipal center, Friday of each month, the town consummate snorkeling, swimming and is tucked into the foothills of the celebrates its emerging arts scene clear views of Lāna‘i, Kaho‘olawe and West Maui Mountains near the with a First Friday block party that Molokini Islet. If not from your hotel scenic streams and cliffs of ‘Īao keeps the galleries, cafés, restaurants room lānai, you can take in these views A ronson Valley State Park. Downtown and boutiques open late. Wailuku’s from the 1.5-mile coastal trail that runs Wailuku is sprinkled with historic Central Maui neighbor is Kahului, a between the resorts and the beach. attractions, including the Bailey commercial and retail center where You’ll see birds soar, catamarans in the House Museum, ‘Īao Theater and the island’s major highways intersect. distance and native plants marked for Ka‘ahumanu Church, one of the The airport is located here, as well. identification and protection. All you have to do is step off the trail and head for the nearest dining room to enjoy the luxury of a Wailea lunch or a sunset cocktail and dinner with the same

glorious views. ©Will (from left) johnson/hta; ©tor

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Kā‘anapali In the 1960s, as developers built signature attractions, Pu‘u Keka‘a West Maui resorts to rival Waikīkī’s, (Black Rock) is a unique outcropping Kā‘anapali experienced a surge of of lava surrounded by thriving coral popularity. It’s easy to see why this reef. While divers and snorkelers savor former sugar plantation was chosen: the underwater sights, landlubbers its beaches. At the north end, Kahekili enjoy the mile-long oceanfront Beach is great for snorkeling. Along walkway or the Kā‘anapali Historic the length of the resort, Kā‘anapali Trail, a two-hour journey starting Beach is lined with swank hotels at the Royal Lahaina Resort and that have made West Maui a top including 10 sites reached on foot and

destination. One of Kā‘anapali’s via the Kā‘anapali Trolley. del amo ©tomas

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LāHAINā Lāhainā is the only West Maui destina- once housed King Kamehameha III, tion with a genuine downtown. Once the courthouse is shaded by the island’s the capital of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i oldest and biggest banyan tree, planted and the international center of whaling, in 1873. Many events are held beneath it’s now known as a fun-loving town of the two-thirds of an acre this 60-foot seaside attractions, restaurants, galleries beauty shades, such as Art in the and hideaway cafes. Its main draw is Park held on every second and fourth Front Street, a maze of quirky, carefree weekend of the month. During the haunts that includes galleries, souve- holidays, the festive decorations, special nir shops, Lāhainā Harbor and such performances and thousands of lights historic sites as the Old Courthouse illuminating the 141 year old tree is a on Wharf Street. Built from coral that popular sight to see. ©tor johnson/hta ©tor

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MAUGB_140700_islandview.indd 60 6/10/14 1:35:34 PM MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 61 6/9/14 3:16:05 PM Off-Island A half-hour ferry ride away leads to two of Maui’s most exciting day trip adventures ©Joe West

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LānA‘I What billionaire Larry Ellison paid to own 98 percent of Lāna‘i is confidential, although some have pegged the price tag between $500 million and $600 million. But even with all his billions, it’s doubt- ful that the Oracle founder will want to change the charm of Hawaii’s sixth largest island. Legend has it that hundreds of years ago, man-eating ghosts inhabited this mysterious island. Today, the Pineapple Island is home to only approximately 3,000 residents and not a single stoplight to be found. In fact,

two cars, a carriage-drawn horse, a tractor and a few pedestrians are considered traffic on this island.

Bordered by 1,000-foot sea cliffs and populated by spotted deer, big horn sheep, Rio Grande turkeys s/hta; and a spectacular variety of rare flora and fauna, Lāna‘i is the place to visit if you want to veer off the

beaten track. Book your passage on Trilogy or Expeditions, the U.S. Coast Guard-certified vessel that Ed mun d crosses the 15 miles of glittering Pacific Ocean. You can often see Hawaiian spinner dolphins, flying fish and the gray-winged shearwater that skips over the waves. From there head to Hulopo‘e Bay to snorkel with dolphins; trek across amazing tide pools; or gaze at the massive stone sea stack, Pu‘upehe

(Sweetheart Rock), where mythic star-crossed lovers once hid. If arriving by plane, a shuttle bus trans- ©Dana s/hta; ports guests from the airport to the Four Seasons Resort’s Lāna‘i at Manele Bay or the Lodge at Koele

property. For a majestic view of all the islands, climb 3,370 feet above sea level to the highest peak, Ed mun d Lāna‘ihale, traversing the Munro Trail by foot or jeep, through lush vegetation and a misty pine for- est. It’s easy to understand why the island’s inhabitants want to keep Lāna‘i the way it is. It moves at a p hy/hta M yers Photogra

markedly slower pace and interlopers are all too willing to adapt to that tempo. M (from left) ©Dana ©Pierce

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moloka’i Once known as āina momona, the bountiful land, Moloka‘i offers a portal to what Hawai‘i might have been like in a bygone era. It’s a reward for serenity-seeking travelers, a place to unwind away from the rigors of urban life. Moloka‘i, Lāna‘i and Maui were once one island and now make up Maui County, also known as Maui Nui. On Moloka‘i, where the coconut trees tower over the buildings, you could actually be alone on a golden sand beach or in a forest of ironwood trees. A two-mile highway traverses the island, and you may discover that you’re the only one on the road. When passing through rustic Kaunakakai, the island’s main town, residents will wave as you pass by. That’s aloha. No wonder Moloka‘i is nicknamed “The Friendly Isle.” Adventurous travelers will want to visit Kalaupapa Peninsula, isolated from the rest of the

island by the world’s highest sea cliffs. The area is famous for its former Hansen’s Disease settlement, where © R on Dahlquist/hta s/hta; patients were forcibly committed in the 1800s. It is now a National Historical Park, and one of the few

ways to get down the mountain trail is via Moloka‘i Mule Ride. Ed mun d (from left) © M ike Brake; ©Dana

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MAUGB_140700_AdFractsGB.indd 67 6/9/14 3:14:26 PM Waileasurrounded by stunning vistas, Maui this resort community evokes many superlatives, including the romance capital of the island and the gem of South Maui. tock S upe rS ©Ron Dahlquist/

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MAUGB_140700_wailea.indd 68 6/9/14 2:51:51 PM activities Resort Highlights The statistics speak for themselves: average annual rainfall, 11 inches. Average temperature, 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Wailea time is spent out- doors at five crescent beaches, three championship golf courses, 11 tennis courts and a long, scalloped shore- line. Snorkeling and swimming sites abound, including the world-renowned Molokini. Ocean craft dot the horizon role in Hawaiian culture and history. as outrigger canoes, catamarans and Introductory hula classes are offered sailboats celebrate the good life. From in Wailea resorts; call your concierge the mile-and-a-half coastal walk, the for details. signs of joy are everywhere in the pan- orama of blue and green. Golfers have string a floral necklace

s the best of the game at the Emerald It's the quintessential symbol of and Gold courses, designed by Robert Hawai‘i, an expression of the aloha Trent Jones, Jr., and the Wailea Blue, spirit. Giving someone a fragrant designed by Arthur Jack Snyder. flower lei is a way to express your love

ana e d mun and appreciation. The resort hotels rhythmic hula dancing have cultural programs that teach takes centerstage lei-making and other Hawaiian arts. From ancient times Native Hawaiians lived on the There are thousands of hula hālau all Learn how to string your own floral slopes of Maui’s great mountain, Haleakalā. Their land stretched down to over the world, and here's why: It's a garland from fresh tropical flowers, as a fertile sea filled with fish. These waters were said to be the home of Lea, universal language, a centuries-old art a gift to yourself or a loved one. the goddess of canoe builders. The word wai, Hawaiian for water, was form that is gracious, beautiful and expressive. Learning the dance is not from galleries to boutiques: combined with the name Lea to signify the Waters of Lea and what is only a spiritual experience; it’s also a the art of shopping now known as the luxury playground of Wailea. great workout and can help improve Because shops and galleries go hand There’s only one place in Hawai‘i where natural beauty and modern coordination. Learn basic hula steps in hand, art and retail are vital part- luxury combine in such a way. Half an hour from the airport, between and gain a new appreciation for the ners throughout Wailea Resort. The the ocean and Haleakalā, Wailea Resort attracts discerning guests with dance as you discover its integral Shops at Wailea, Grand Wailea shop- its lifestyle of easy glamour. In 1,500 acres by the sea, condominiums, ping arcade, and luxury galleries and boutiques make this the premier villas, private homes and five opulent hotels have found their place destination for retail and art connois- in the sun. This is Maui’s shopping and dining nexus, with art around seurs. Old masters and contemporary every corner. Every spring, with its celebration of chocolate and life’s icons appear in galleries and museums other pleasures, a film festival attracts gourmets and glitterati alike. without walls. And because Wailea is a

stock; © d ©shutte r stock; ©shutte r stock; clockwise) (this tock; page, There are five golden beaches, retail centers and restaurants for all coastal community, casual wear, swim- wear, aloha wear and collectibles are as tastes. Children’s programs engage the keiki, while parents enjoy three S upe rS important as designer creations straight legendary golf courses, golf and tennis academies, and a shimmering from the runways of Paris and Milan. ocean playground. From the mile-and-a-half coastal walk, three offshore islands and the West Maui Mountains leisurely scroll into view. strumming along Wailea is as green as they come, too: The Shops at Wailea has received The four-stringed ‘ukulele, the “jump- the Greenguard Indoor Air Quality Certification, and other resort part- ing flea,” is a diminutive guitar that’s fun to play. You’ll be amazed at the ners pursue aggressive environmental initiatives. Green, Gold and Blue diverse sounds that can be generated describe more than the golf courses. They're the Wailea way of life. from the ‘ukulele, an easy instrument

(facing page) ©Ron Dahlquist/ page) (facing www.wailearesortassociation.com for kids and adults to learn.

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MAUGB_140700_wailea.indd 69 6/9/14 2:52:05 PM 70 MAUGB_140700_wailea.indd 70 WHERE GUESTBOOK GUESTBOOK WHERE local products to fuel your dining adventures. dining your fuel to products local fresh, and agriculture Maui chefs, MauiYou dishes. on handcrafted count can serving hubs social up-to-the-minute as serve gastro-pub a and bars Sports Japanesedishes. Filipinoand classic reinvent innovativemenus more while traditions classic to nod a way.give the cuisine Mediterraneanalong and Italiansurprises gastronomic some expect can Guests menus. prix-fixe special prepare who chefs, local of talents the features that event destination epicurean an RestaurantWeekinto turned has daily,thrives twice-a-year scene the lū‘au.dining sizzling the two While and bars snack poolside and houses pizza wood-fire NewYork-style and rooms to dining oceanfrontdelis elegant from abound, choices culinary drive, or minutes’walk few a within lounges and restaurants flavor.30 in than morebig Withare restaurants area's the but size in Waileacompact be may Cuisine Creative WaileaMaui dining

and cycling in the afternoon. Yogaafternoon. the in and cycling and Waves lapping at the shore. Molokini,shore.Waves the at lapping Molokini. TheWest MauiMountains. Haleakalā.Sunset. Canoepaddlers on Tradewind days, balmy nights and no no Tradewindand nights balmy days, Stayingpainlesslyfit withgolf, tennis North to south for a mile and a half. a and mile a for south to North Annualrainfallinches.11Suntans of on every menu.Islandeveryon fish,andfruit herbs in the hands of creativehandstheofherbsin chefs. tai chi.Swimming,tai snorkeling, and and watersports.and Kayakingdawn at Grown-on-Mauiproducts featured Birdsong and children's laughter.children's Birdsongand and smilesandeverywhere youlook. c 82-degreeaverage temperature. onsi urean delight epicurean Desserts thatbelongthe in the unbeatableview thenheadingspa.theto lovewailea the ocean.theEvery day. rea rejuvenation need for overcoats. for need larger than life. than larger c Hall of Fame.of Hall tent 5 oa to son 4 3 5 2 s 1

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MAUGB_140700_DIPwrap.indd 73 6/9/14 6:20:33 PM Fairways to Author James A. Michener once referred to thoseheaven of us irresistibly drawn to flecks of land in distant seas as “nesomaniacs,” i.e., “mad about islands.” I must admit to being so afflicted. Never have I felt more at peace in the world than when my hair is caressed by the trade winds and my body buffeted by warm Pacific waters. By george fuller Photo credit p t book gotham 5.5/9 Photo

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 74 6/9/14 10:18:56 AM As a golfer that island experience is made so much better when I can indulge in my favorite passion on some of the best courses in the country. Thus, with all of the above- described attributes in its portfolio, I am mad about Maui. Who isn’t? The Valley Isle combines the best of all the Hawaiian Islands. It’s green and lush like Kaua‘i; entertaining and full of fun like O‘ahu; big, with open spaces and sweeping vistas like the Big Island; and has tradition and spirit like Moloka‘i. Best of all for us golfing nesomaniacs, the courses here range from PGA Tour-tested championship facilities to informal tracks where you can tee it up barefoot with locals.

KAPALUA Maui’s biggest moment in the golf world spotlight comes each January when the PGA Tour comes to town to play the Hyundai Tournament of Champions at the Kapalua Plantation Course. Won in 2013 by Dustin Johnson, this tournament is one that the pros truly enjoy. Summing up how most golfers feel about a trip to Maui, Johnson says, “I love Hawai‘i. I go out a week early every year. The weather is perfect. Before the tournament starts, my brother and I tee off at sunrise every morning and then head straight to the beach.” Set on former pineapple plantation fields amidst the 23,000 acres of Kapalua Resort, the Plantation is a broad-shouldered, hilly layout with ocean views from every hole. Because of the frequent winds that blow down the slopes of the West Maui Mountains and across the course, the fairways are wider than those found on many Mainland courses and the green complexes larger. Architects Ben Crenshaw and Bill Coore did a masterful job designing the 7,411-yard/par 73 Plantation Course with the wind in mind. Hole 18, for example, is a 663-yard par-five from the tournament tees, but as it plays downhill and most often downwind, the pros can go for this green in two. Hole 9, conversely, is only 521 yards, but when it plays against the prevailing wind to an elevated green, it becomes the hardest hole on the course. G arnett

(facing page) ©rob brown; (this page) © R on ©rob (this brown; page) page) (facing Wailea Emerald Course, 1st Hole

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 75 6/9/14 10:18:59 AM Wailea Gold Course, 5th Hole

While the Plantation is the premier course at Kapalua, the Bay Course—an Nicklaus walked and Trevino quipped as they vied in the Senior Skins Game. It’s older Arnold Palmer/Francis Duane design—is a fun, resort-style layout that boasts where the LPGA held the Women’s Kemper Open. It’s the only Hawai‘i resort one of Hawai‘i’s prettiest holes, No. 5. It is a par-3 with an ocean inlet between tee with 54 holes of championship golf and a David Leadbetter Golf Academy. Add and green. Golfers can rest assured that it’s better to be long than short, as a wide a 12-acre practice facility and a nationally acclaimed golf shop, and it’s hardly sur- landing zone presents itself behind the green, whereas anything short requires scuba prising that in 2010 the readers of Condé Nast Traveler voted Wailea the world’s gear to retrieve. No. 1 golf resort. An hour south of Kā‘anapali, Wailea’s three courses—Old Blue, Emerald and Gold —embody the best of both classic and new design. KA‘ANAPALI In the mid-1990s, the arrival of the Emerald and Gold courses took the resort Kā‘anapali’s 36 holes of resort golf are found just behind the beachfront row of to new heights. Architect Robert Trent Jones, Jr., who designed the adjoining lay- hotels. The better of the two layouts is Royal Kā‘anapali, a classic Robert Trent outs, took full advantage of Wailea’s natural palette, creating signature courses that Jones Sr. design that opened in 1962. The Champions Skins Game was played here are in keeping with the climate and feel of the land. Jones contoured the fairways, for several years, with Jack Nicklaus and Tom Watson teaming up in 2010 for a varied the size and shape of the greens, and made creative use of sand and water. popular victory, which they successfully defended in 2011. With its fifth hole that Moreover, he cleverly routed the layouts to minimize uphill climbs and maximize plays right down to the Pacific spray, Royal Kā‘anapali is a popular and pleasurable view planes. layout, while also requiring accuracy to score. Both courses are engaging tests of golf, challenging without being demoralizing, Its sister Kā‘anapali Kai Course was originally opened as an executive course, but as resort courses should be. Immaculate in conditioning and strategic in play, Jones was expanded by architect Arthur Jack Snyder in 1976. Today it plays to par 70 at just calls the Gold his “television course” in reference to the televised Skins Games that over 6,800 yards, making it a great track for families and higher handicappers. have been played on its fairways. Playing as long as 7,078 yards, skillful shotmak- ing is required to negotiate par on many holes. Jones made good use of the natural WAILEA landscape to create a round that combines beauty and challenge.

To arrive at Wailea is to enter the pearly gates of Hawaiian golf. This is where The Emerald is equally scenic, with lush landscaping and views out to the golf club ©wailea

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 76 6/7/14 7:39:19 PM Pacific from every hole. Shorter at only 6,825 yards, accomplished players will score well on the Emerald, while higher handicappers will enjoy their round from the 5,873 white or 5,268 red tees. The captivating par-5 f inishing hole plays downhill and downwind to a green that opens up from the left and is reachable in two shots. Take aim at Wailea’s signature landmark, the Pu‘u Ōla‘i cinder cone, which rises like a lighthouse in the distance to guide you home. The Old Blue Course is Wailea’s classic design. Opened in 1972, it is a favorite with locals, who enjoy its wide and forgiving fairways, sunny climate and friendly staff. The routing weaves through the foothills of Haleakalā, with a relaxed pacing that reminds you to slow down and enjoy the day. A new clubhouse is on the draw- ing boards for Old Blue in 2014. Visitors to Wailea can play all these great holes year-round; there is no off-sea- son. During the winter, however, there is an additional attraction: That’s when the humpback whales come down to vacation in Hawaiian waters. But even without golf or whales, Wailea is singular in its attractions and beauty. The resort lies on Maui’s dry, leeward coast, where the weather, beaches and reefs are inviting and the views stupendous. Look one way, and the offshore islands of Kaho‘olawe, Lāna‘i and Molokini rise majestically from the sea. Look the other way and Mt. Haleakalā disappears into the clouds, its massive bulk shielding the resort from the blustery northeast trades.

THE PUBLIC OPTION Public courses on Maui worth playing include the Dunes at Maui Lani and Kahili. The Dunes at Maui Lani, a Robin Nelson design, is commonly cited as one of the locals’ favorites. It plays among some dunes near Maui’s main airport, with a variety of fun and memorable holes. Kahili is one of the better bargains on Maui. Sited in the saddle between Haleakalā and the West Maui Mountains, wind can be a factor on this 6,554-yard course, and water comes into play on several holes. In Hawaii, there’s a saying, Maui “nō ka ‘oi,” meaning, Maui is the best. That’s a statement hard to argue, particularly for those of us mad about island golf.

More Than Golf Essentials

Golfers, outdoor enthusiasts and those with an eye for style are all equally at home in the Pro Shop at Wailea Golf Club’s Gold & Emerald Clubhouse. One of Hawai‘i’s largest and one of the country’s best, the shop has received 14 regional and national awards. Golf World Business and Golf for Women maga- zines have named it one of America’s top shops, and the PGA of America selected it national resort Merchandiser of the Year. Its offerings in golf equipment and apparel are superior, but other catego- ries also have their own strong identity. High-quality, up-to-the-minute resort wear and accessories include jewelry, hats, handbags and the latest from name brands: Puma, Hugo Boss, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Bahama, Lilly Pulitzer, Eric Javitz, Brighton, Helen Kaminsky, Bobby Jones and more. For outdoor lovers, top-selling performance fabrics are at the cutting edge of active wear. Convertible collars for women speak volumes of fashion and function, and a new, organic made-on-Maui sunscreen has sun lovers abuzz. Hypoallergenic, biodegradable, and a shield from harmful UVA/UVB radiation, it’s also reef-friendly, water-resistant and brimming with antioxidants. The Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse also carries golf equipment, apparel and accessories, as well as the latest in active and fashionable sportswear. The Pro Shop, Gold and Emerald Clubhouse, 100 Wailea Golf Club Drive, 808.875.7450; Wailea Old Blue Clubhouse, 120 Kaukahi St., 808.879.2350.

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 77 6/7/14 7:39:23 PM Maui Golf Guide

Dunes at Maui Lani Kapalua Resort Bay Course 18 hole regulation 18 hole regulation 72 par — 6,841 yards 72 par — 6,600 yards 136 USGA Slope Rating 72.1 USGA Course Rating Driving Range & GPS 136 USGA Slope Rating 1333 Maui Lani Parkway, Kahului Driving Range & GPS 808.873.0422 300 Kapalua Drive, Kapalua dunesatmauilani.com 877.527.2582 $79 – $112 cms.kapalua.com $208 – $268 elleair Maui Golf Club 18 hole regulation Kapalua Resort 71 par — 6,801 yards Plantation Course 73.2 USGA Course Rating 18 hole regulation 135 USGA Slope Rating 73 par — 7,411 yards Driving Range & GPS 75.6 USGA Course Rating 1345 Pi'ilani Hwy., Kihei 140 USGA Slope Rating 808.874.0777 Driving Range & GPS elleairmauigolfclub.com 300 Kapalua Drive, Kapalua $75 – $120 877.527.2582 cms.kapalua.com Kā’anapali Kai Golf Course $168 – $268 18 hole regulation 70 par — 6,388 yards King Kamehameha Golf Club 70.7 USGA Course Rating 18 hole regulation 135 USGA Slope Rating 72 par — 6,584 yards Driving Range & GPS Driving Range 2290 Kā'anapali Pkwy, Kā’anapali 2500 Honoapi'ilani Hwy., Wailuku 866.454.4653 808.249.0033 kaanapaligolfresort.com Resort attire $119 - $249 kamehamehagolf.com $170 ”Member for a Day” rate Kahili Golf Course at Maui's only 18-hole private 18 hole regulation golf club 72 par — 6,570 yards 70.0 USGA Course Rating Makena Golf Course 128 USGA Slope Rating 18 hole regulation Driving Range & GPS 72 par — 6,914 yards 2500 Honoapi'ilani Hwy., Wailuku 73.6 USGA Course Rating 808.242.4653 138 USGA Slope Rating kahiligolf.com Driving Range, GPS & club rentals $75 – $95 5415 Makena Alanui, Makena 808.891.4000 makenagolf.com $99-$185

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 78 6/7/14 7:39:30 PM Wailea Gold Course, 18th Hole

Pukalani Country Club Wailea Emerald Course 18 hole regulation 18 hole regulation 72 par — 6,882 yards 72 par — 6,825 yards 72.9 USGA Course Rating 72.8 USGA Course Rating 127 USGA Slope Rating 135 USGA Slope Rating Driving Range Driving Range & GPS T-Shirt & sneakers okay 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea 360 Pukalani St , Pukalani 888.328.6284 808-572-1314 waileagolf.com www.pukalanigolf.com/ $179 - $225 $28 - $88 Wailea Gold Course Waiehu Municipal Golf Course 18 hole regulation 18 hole regulation 72 par — 7,078 yards 72 par — 6,330 yards 74.5 USGA Course Rating 70.5 USGA Course Rating 138 USGA Slope Rating 117 USGA Slope Rating Driving Range & GPS Driving Range 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea T-Shirt & sneakers okay 888.328.6284 200 Halewaiu Rd, Waiehu waileagolf.com 808-243-7400 www.mauicounty.gov $55 Rates subject to change without notice. Rates quoted for non- residents, some rates reflect Wailea Old Blue Course twilight time starts. Some but not 18 hole regulation all offer lower rates for Hawaii 72 par — 6,765 yards residents and military. 72.2 USGA Course Rating 129 USGA Slope Rating Driving Range & GPS Proper resort attire 100 Wailea Golf Club Dr., Wailea 888.328.6284 waileagolf.com $140 - $190 ©matthew thayer ©matthew

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MAUGB_140700_golf.indd 79 6/7/14 7:39:37 PM 80 MAUGB_140700_QA.indd 80 “ WHERE GUESTBOOKWHERE nothing like it. like nothing localproducts. There’s the here, flavors the You years. beat can’t pastthese11me to great Mauibeen has ”

6/10/14 12:27:29 PM

?? ??? Q&A

Chef Sheldon Simeon From ‘Top Chef’ to Stardom. By Pati Poblete

ig Island-native Sheldon kitchens. I got to work with amazing that how you cook rice? this time a boy! So we have Chloe, 7, Simeon became a household chefs and got a chance to showcase the I tried that, it doesn’t work for me! Peyton, 4, Quinn, 2, and now Asher, name after placing third in flavors of Filipino-Hawaiian food. It just a few months old. It’s great. Season 10 of Bravo’s “Top was amazing. When “Top Chef” was airing, you BChef.” We caught up with the popular were working at Star Noodle in What would you request for your chef just before spring, as he was gear- But you decided to stay right here Maui. Where are you now? last meal? ing up for a new chapter in his career in Maui – why? About a year ago I was asked to run You know, I can say Bluefin Tuna from and his home life – and contemplating Maui has been great to me these past the kitchen at Migrant Maui, a new Japan, or something exotic like that, his imprint on the culinary scene. 11 years. You can’t beat the flavors place co-owned by Shep Gordon at but what I would really want is my here, the local products. There’s noth- the Wailea Marriott. It was an amaz- mom’s miki noodle soup. To this day, I What are the biggest influences ing like it. And it came down to where ing opportunity and it kept me here remember that about my mom. I think on your approach to food and I wanted to raise my kids. My wife is in Maui, so I accepted. It’s really great dishes that make you feel something is cooking? engulfed in my daughters’ activities, in to be able to experiment with flavors. important. She used to make that for I’d have to say my upbringing – start- PTA, their school. I volunteer at the Right now, the most requested dish is me when I was sick, or anytime I just ing with my grandparents. They came college – we’re part of the community. I simple. My Ahi and avocado dish is just wanted comfort food. from the Philippines and worked on mean, I’m really just a country boy. Ahi, avocado and sauce with lemon- the sugar cane and pineapple planta- pressed olive oil, soy sauce and chili. What’s the best thing about being tions on the Big Island. They grew and For many who are familiar with That’s it. People always request it.” a chef in Hawaii? harvested their food, raised animals in traditional Filipino food, your The flavors! I volunteer as a teacher for their backyard. They didn’t have to go dishes may not look like Filipino What have been the highlights of cooking classes sometimes, and the first to a grocery store and buy packaged food at all. Do you ever get com- working there so far? thing I always like to ask the students and processed products. It was all there, plaints or comments about that? Well, Shep knows a lot of people, has a is “What’s in your refrigerator?” You’ll on the land around them. And my dad (Laughing) Oh, yeah. I remember I lot of friends. He managed AC/DC and have one kid say kim chee, another says was always seen as our family’s caterer. was participating in this culinary event other artists. Since the place opened in fish sauce, another will say something Every family party, he was the cook. So once in Maui. I had my tweezers and January, we’ve had Alice Cooper, Richie totally different. That’s Hawaii – we’ve they passed down that appreciation of squeeze bottles out while I was plating. Sambora and Steven Tyler come in. got all these unique flavors influenced the land and local products on to me. A And I heard two older Filipino women That was super awesome. Steven Tyler by Portuguese, Filipino, Japanese, lot of days, I’m picking produce on the behind me saying, “What is that? That’s just sat in the back, really relaxed. He Chinese, Korean immigrants. farm for that day’s menu. You can’t beat not Filipino food!” But you know, the was great, and he went crazy over the local flavors. flavor profiles are the same. It may not ramen noodles! What do you hope your legacy look like what you’re used to, but the will be in the culinary world? A lot has happened since you flavors are ultimately the same. You’ve Around the same time your career Oh, wow. This new generation of were on “Top Chef.” What kind got to love those aunties, though. took off, your family seemed to cooks is just so amazing. There are of opportunities did that open They’re traditionalists. They have pride be growing as well – how has that so many new ways of cooking, so for you? in their food. been? many opportunities. But I always say Oh, man, that was crazy. There were so Ha! There’s a joke in my family that you have to cook because you love it, many opportunities after that, like res- Speaking of tradition: A lot of every time I open a new restaurant, because it means something to you. taurants in New York and Los Angeles. Filipinos are known to cook rice I have a new baby. Yeah, right before If I can elevate Filipino cuisine and People really wanted me to bring my by lining up the water with the starting at Migrant Maui my wife, expose it to more people, that’s really modern take on Filipino food to their lines on their middle finger. Is Janice, and I had our fourth baby – all I can hope for.

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MAUGB_140700_QA.indd 81 6/10/14 12:40:01 PM island SONG

Kilakila o Maui lā iā Haleakalā Ua kapu Roselani a na ‘u ho‘okahi wale nō Majestic is Maui and Haleakalā The roselani is sacred, mine alone

—Excerpt from “Nā Lei O Hawai‘i” (Song of the Islands) by Charles E. King

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MAUGB_140700_IslandSong.indd 82 6/6/14 10:15:56 AM MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 83 6/2/14 4:35:49 PM PARTING SHOT

Aia no ka pua i luna. THe flower is still on the tree. ‘Ōlelo No‘eau by Mary Kawena Pukui Photo by Shane Myers

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MAUGB_140700_partingshot.indd 84 6/10/14 12:59:43 PM MAUGB_140700_insidecoverC3Final.indd 3 6/5/14 2:03:39 PM MAUGB_140700_AdPlacements.indd 4 6/2/14 4:15:17 PM