Young People in Eastern Europe and Central Asia: From Policy to Action

May 21-24, 2007

YOUTH IN ECA YOUTH CONFERENCE SPECIAL Today 1.5 billion ced over the last 15 years. This experience has blems. It is also a chance for people from people worldwi- been particularly traumatic for the older widely diverse cultures and backgrounds, de – 1.3 billion of generation. Yet, there is hope. embracing all countries from Eastern them in develo- Young people, naturally less entrenched and Europe, the Caucasus and Central Asia, to ping and transi- more open to new ideas, are often the best learn from each others’ ideas and experiences. tion countries – placed to deal with the psychological aspect More specifically, the conference aims to are aged 12-24, of transition. They are willing to learn when develop two key areas of youth policy identi- the most ever. given the lead by responsible policies and fied by the World Bank’s World Addressing institutions, and with the right means at their Development Report: ‘transition to work’ and issues important disposal. On both fronts public institutions ‘transition to citizenship’, both of which are to youth will like the World Bank and the European especially problematic for young people in affect these countries well into the future, Union, but also donor governments, NGOs ECA. both in terms of economic development, and the private sector, all have important Finding a job is extremely difficult for youn- growth and social development. Human parts to play, providing financial support, gsters who lack relevant skills and experience; capital outcomes of today’s young people will technical assistance, advice and political businesses require workers to be operational also affect their children. Therefore, missed incentives. immediately and rarely have the financial or opportunities can be extremely costly to The World Bank has worked with these human resources to train young people. remedy. middle to low-income countries from the ‘Transition to work’ therefore concerns not Despite often having helped to trigger social earliest phases of transition to the present to only education policies but also employment and political change in the so called “transi- improve the living standards of their people, and labor policies with a particular focus on tion” countries in Eastern Europe and promote economic growth, and ensure that rural areas and minority groups. It also covers Central Asia,* young people for the most future generations benefit from sound envi- welfare and social policies since joblessness part have subsequently been excluded from ronmental practices and social development. can lead to poverty and marginalization that decision-making and the political priorities Indeed practically every aspect of the World can in turn lead to violence, intolerance and of the new order. It is distressing to note that Bank’s research and operations in ECA – crime. despite the economic recovery in the region, from Admin-istrative and Civil Service ‘Transition to citizenship’ is about holding completing secondary school is still far from Reform to dealing with HIV/AIDS, con- public officials accountable for their actions, the norm in many parts of the region, and too cerns young people. seeking justice for oneself and others, and many young people are out of school and out The 2007 Rome Conference on Youth in encouraging tolerance amongst people of dif- of work. The region faces the very real risk ECA: From Policy to Action – a joint initia- ferent ethnic or religious backgrounds. If that this could act as a brake on growth lea- tive of the World Bank and the Cooperation public policies and institutions fail to give ding to increasing poverty at home, illegal and Development Office of ’s Ministry young people a stake in their countries’ futu- migration or, worse still, local conflict. of Foreign Affairs, – is an important oppor- res, their disenfranchisement could ultimate- Further, from today’s perspective it is almost tunity to improve dialogue between young ly lead to more of the kind of inter-ethnic unfathomable to imagine for outsiders the people and policy makers in ECA and to conflict and other social ruptures, such as upheaval that people in the region experien- discover joint solutions to common pro- growth of organised crime, that have charac- terised the region in the past 15 years. Finally, I would like to highlight how this conference shows what a difference it can make when all stakeholders work together in THE the area of public policy. Together with the REGION two main sponsors (the Italian Ministry of “RISKS EXPO- Foreign Affairs and the World Bank), the SING THE International Labor Organization, The YOUNG TO European Commission, the European Youth POVERTY, ILLE- Forum, telecommunications company Nokia GAL MIGRATION and software maker Microsoft, have contri- OR buted to its realization. Nokia, for example, in CONFLICT... financing the 2007 Innovation Grants YET, THERE IS Competition “Connecting Youth to Work HOPE. and Citizenship Opportunities” that helps Shigeo” Katsu young people by introducing an innovative concept, approach or technology, has shown what the private sector can achieve. I sincere- ly hope that we all continue to work together to turn policy into action for the benefit of young people.

Shigeo Katsu Vice President Europe and Central Asia (ECA) Region The World Bank

* Transition countries moved from a centrally planned to market-oriented economic systems. The World to the post-war Balkan area, taking on a lead Development role in supporting its economic redevelop- Report 2007, ment, bolstering and consolidating demo- eloquently titled cratic institutions, as well as in pacifying and “Development redressing ethnic conflicts. Such weighty and the Next commitment on behalf of the Bank has met Generation”, Cooperation Office support; on our part, in highlights the fact, we have contributed our financial sup- World Bank’s port – however limited – towards securing move towards programmes benefiting younger generations greater focus on and their future prospects. youth and on the I would like to place special emphasis on the fundamental World Bank’s Macedonia project, which is part that they have to play as active partici- among those best promoted and funded by pants in changing the development of their Italy’s Development Cooperation home countries. The Bank’s strategy is clear Directorate General. Macedonia’s complex and concise: “today’s young shall be the wor- ethnic and religious issues carry a burden of kers, entrepreneurs, parents, active citizens significant political implications; in a sense and leaders of tomorrow”. Investing in the the country is a paradigm of the Balkan youth of developing countries means inve- region in general. The Macedonia project sting in human capital – a fundamental has, among other things, set the benchmark resource –, increasing young persons’ oppor- for similar initiatives in Moldova, which is tunities with regards to access to education, currently having to tackle significant emi- training, qualified occupation, thus contri- gration levels among younger generations buting to society’s development at large in a (especially women), towards Italy and other practical and sustainable way. Western European countries where they are The 29th World Bank Report indicates that usually employed as domestic helpers, nan- young persons aged 12 to 24 currently stand nies or nurses. This migratory phenomenon at 1.3 billion, the highest figure on record. has significant social repercussions internal- Out of that total, 85% live in underdevelo- ly, owing to the break-up of family units ped countries and have minimal chances of since many migrants leave their young chil- obtaining qualified and sustainable employ- dren behind; the programme, however, also ment. tackles the issue of human trafficking and Italy’s Cooperation Office fully subscribes to the enslavement of minors into forced pro- this idea of development, and its Guidelines stitution and begging. on youth and younger persons’ issues testify The Conference provides an opportunity to to that. Our strategies have grown towards discuss the results achieved to date, with a encompassing best practices and creating view to launching future initiatives based on further opportunities aimed at younger strategies that truly account for the new sce- generations. These efforts have been put narios and challenges of the future. into practice in many fields, thanks to the It is a fact that, over the years, the Balkan help of local populations, governments, civil and East-European outlook has changed: a society and UN Agencies. number of countries that have partaken in That point warrants a special emphasis on our development cooperation efforts have my part: countering poverty and creating now joined the European Union, others, baseline conditions that favour fundamental instead, are close to membership. Others human rights, requires concerted action on a still, with ambitions for membership, are range of issues: foremost by strengthening also seeking to meet the accession criteria. governance (which in many countries where We, the Cooperation Office, can contribute we operate is often very weak), and by co- to the latter process by providing the sup- opting and promoting civil organisations on port needed to emancipate countries from the ground (in other words the kind of gra- poverty and to achieve full institutional ssroots associations and volunteer organisa- transition away from the political sidelines, tions which are capable of engendering par- by tackling core issues such as sustainable ticipation within broad sectors of the popu- development, equal social, economic, civil lation and society). and political rights, recognition of all ethnic The Italian Cooperation Office is involved and religious groupings, and equal opportu- in programs placing a special emphasis on nities concerning gender and age. human rights, pacification and consolida- To achieve this it is essential that all availa- tion of democratic governance establi- ble resources are invested for the young, by shments. The Cooperation Office underta- the young. Furthermore, we need to act fast: kes to play an effective role by way of its we can no longer afford the luxury of empty commitment to support the positive efforts speeches or creative political solutions. We of such sectors of society as are actively need practical, effective solutions. The risk involved in the pursuit of democratic, open that we are a witness to, is that these coun- development for their home countries. tries undergo continued, sustained emigra- Our cooperation with the World Bank tion involving its younger generations; those ranks among such positive endeavours: the young adults are not just fleeing their coun- World Bank continues to contribute greatly tries in pursuit of a job – any job – but have also lost all faith in the prospect of witnes- sing their countries’ economic, social and cultural rebirth. ALL AVAILABLE The latter scenario cannot and will not be RESOURCES“ allowed to unfold: our commitment is to ensure the continuity of our endeavours, INVESTED both in a practical sense – as our initiatives FOR THE YOUNG, with World Bank partners prove – and in BY THE the broader political and institutional sense. YOUNG. The message to Balkan and East European Patrizia Sentinelli ” youth must be that we do care and we are there for them: the Cooperation Office wants to be involved, alongside them, in the process of building a new Europe, based on principles of justice, participation, solidarity and democracy. With that goal in mind, younger generations can and should lead the way.

Patrizia Sentinelli Deputy Minister Cooperation and Development Office Italian Ministry of Foreign Affairs 22 MAY-15 JUNE /"TO BE IN BETWEEN”/ DURING THE LAST DECADE A SERIES OF LARGE SCALE EXHIBITIONS HAVE BEEN ORGANISED TO PRESENT ARTISTS FROM THE BALKANS AND TO EXPLORE THE DIVERSE ARTISTIC PRACTICES AND THE COMPLEX CUL- TURAL PHENOMENA THAT CHARAC- TERIZE BOTH THIS GEOPOLITICAL AREA AND THE PROCESSES OF TRANSFORMATION THAT HAVE INVOLVED THIS CULTURAL MILIEU

FROM THE BEGINNING OF THE 90S Sejla Kameric - “Dream House” 2003 TILL TODAY. Video installation. (photo: Wolfgang Günzel, credit: Portikus, Frankfurt am Main)

The INBETWEENESS exhibi- state of mind, or as an existential tion – subtitled “The Balkans: and psychological condition as well metaphor of change” – is the first as a legal one, and, therefore, a large-scale presentation of artists common denominator or factor from the Balkans in a single insti- that implies a necessity to redefine tutional space in Italy; it provides a The Balkans: metaphor of change the features of proper cultural iden- panoramic view of artistic practices Maja Bajevic tity. Furthermore, it alludes to the that have emerged in recent times Maja Beganovic shift towards the notion of “multi- and focuses primarily on the youn- Pavel Braila ple identity”, that conjugates or ger generation of artists who main- Mircea Cantor & Gabriela Vanga separates cultural features of the ly live and work from their home Nemanja Cvijanovic place of origin and the one of countries. Nezaket Ekici actual permanency. In a sense, the The exhibition was jointly organi- Nicu Ilfoveanu common theme of the exhibition is sed by the World Bank, the Pravdoljub Ivanov ‘difference’, as curator Dobrila Development and Cooperation Sejla Kameric Denegri puts it, “a multiplicity of Office of the Italian Ministry of Daniela Kostova possible points of view” rather than Foreign Affairs, Space Italia, David Maljkovic any ‘commonality’, the show has “a Fondazione Guastalla, and Ebru Ozsecen choral nature that produces a wide Energie, to coincide with the Adrian Paci Tobijas Putrih variety of voices and imageries”. Conference on “Youth in ECA: Anri Sala Denegri’s co-curator Ludovico From Policy to Action”, taking son:DA Pratesi adds that the art displays place in Rome on May 21-25. The Mica Staicic “the sensation of uncertainty and official sponsor of the exhibition is Erzen Shkololli undefined identity” that characteri- Unicredit Group. Jelena Tomasevic zes the artists. Slavica Tosevska As well as exploring multiple THE CONCEPT Nikola Uzunovski aspects of what might be understo- INBETWEENESS implies a spe- Vesna Vesic od as “being in between”, being in a cific condition, like “to be in betwe- Natalija Vujosevic state of transition and transforma- tion, both individually and collecti- en” two places: one of departure and vely, the exhibition also aims to one of arrival, or in between two tackle issues like nomadism, mobi- temporal dimensions: past and pre- lity, marginalization, uncertainty, sent for instance; there is a strong cultural diversity and displacement, connotation of the being and the that artists are presently investiga- way of working for a younger gene- ting from numerous and differing ration of artists who are in constant points of view. Denegri highlights mobility and transition and whose that “each work is like an entrance work reflects upon this intrinsic to a different story, and the range of state. tones that artists are using in their “Inbetweeness” can be seen also as a narrations are also very different: 22 MAY-15 JUN: INBETWEENESS EX CARCERI DEL COMPLESSO DI SAN MICHELE A () Curators: Dobrila Denegri – Art Director, nKA / ICA Belgrade. Independent curator associated with the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome (MACRO). Maja Beganovic - “Who Is On The Way Is Already There”, 2006/07 Ludovico Pratesi - Director of the FUTURO Cultural association, Rome. Grass, intervention in space, variable dimensions Art Director of Centre for the Visual Arts Pescheria, Pesaro sometimes dramatic and touching, tion that came a bit later has been in other cases more ironic and shaped by what we might call humorous”. ‘becoming democracies’, the condi- This imaginary journey through tions of transition and the uncer- complex and contradictory realities tainty that so strongly influences that characterize the cultural con- their ‘philosophy of life’. And this is text of the Balkans also includes reflected in their work through references to themes and topics lighter and constructive tones, there that have universal connotations. It is more humour and detachment. is a journey involving an array of art Besides biting criticism and irony, forms from video installations to there is a strong consciousness that painting and photographs, as well in spite of the contradictions of the as sculptural and ambient creations. present reality in which we live, Imagine it as a kaleidoscopic view there is still a space for hope and of the Balkans and the world at reconstruction, for utopic ideas and large, through the contributions of dreams.” some of the most exciting young Some of the youngest artists invol- contemporary artists to have emer- ved will be present at the exhibitio- ged onto the international scene. n’s launch on May 22. THE BALKAN REGION THE LOCATION The young artists featured in The exhibition takes place in the INBETWEENESS hail from powerfully evocative space of the countries like Slovenia, Croatia, Complesso del Ex Carcere del S. Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Michele (the Former Prison of San Montenegro, Macedonia, Albania, Michele), “little known to the TRASTEVERE Trastevere is perhaps one of Rome’s best known and loved quarters. The Bulgaria, Romania, Moldova and public,” according to Pratesi, “but name is a direct derivation of the Latin trans Tiberim, which means “across Turkey. Despite their youth many an interesting example of eighte- from the Tiber”. Right up to the days of Augustus, in fact, the area was con- of them have already gained reco- enth century correction as well as a sidered to be outside the city proper; during early imperial times, however, gnition on a broader level through striking architectural space.” Such a the area witnessed a boom, turning into an immense district which hosted various international venues, and at location lends itself well to the Rome’s working classes and craftsmen: potters as well leather, ivory and least most of them currently live INBETWEENESS exhibition wood workers. A walk through the streets and piazzas of Trastevere will and work in different countries in because it “documents new Balkan provide visitors with a fresh outlook on Rome, filled with churches, medie- Europe or in the United States. art that has moved beyond its geo- val architecture and sculptures. The quarter’s most famous church is proba- Most of the artists are in their 20s graphic boundaries to assume a bly Santa Maria in Trastevere, the oldest basilica on record to have been or 30s, specifically chosen says metaphoric dimension that tran- consecrated to the Virgin Mary; the church is filled with beautiful medie- Pratesi because “they represent scends the political, social and val mosaics and stands out for possessing the tallest Romanesque bell tower. Another gem at the heart of the Trastevere is Palazzo Corsini, which cur- through their artwork the abrupt ideological barriers that once rently hosts the Corsini gallery, home to works by Beato Angelico, Rubens, and dramatic process of change restricted it”. Indeed, the exhibition Murillo, Luca Giordano, and the Accademia dei Lincei which, founded in experienced by their countries over and the San Michele complex go 1603, is the world’s oldest scientific academy in the world. The surrounding the last 20 years”. There is, however, together so well that there are no gardens also host the Rome Botanical Gardens and some 3000 plant varie- a slight generational difference plans to take the show on the road ties. Trastevere by night is filled with pleasant restaurants, pubs, wine bars, “best perceived through the - “it would be too difficult to tran- tea rooms, music and bookshops, all open till late. The streets are also a artwork”, states Denegri: “the sfer into a different context” adds habitual haunt of performers, jugglers, magicians, mimes and entertainers ‘older’ ones’ works are marked by Pratesi. in general. The district is imbued with artistic and historic heritage, and is the political and social events, in a must for anyone planning to delve deeper into the fabric of Roman life- some cases quite dramatic, that The INBETWEENESS exhibition style. marked the first half of the 90s: the runs until 15 June and is open to fall of the Berlin Wall, war in the the general public. ex-Yugoslavia, and the beginning of THE SAN MICHELE transitional processes. The genera- A RIPA MONUMENTAL COMPLEX

Daniela Kostova - “Made In”, 2004/05 Performance, single-channel video, (stills) The former San Michele Apostolic Institute, established in 1686 under Odescalchi Pope Innocent XI, the building currently hosts the Culture and Heritage Ministry. It took almost 150 years to complete and was finished, after multiple changes to its design, in 1834. The core part of the building was designed by and Mattia de’ Rossi, and comprises the so- called Fabbrica di San Michele, which also includes the former orphanage which is also known as the ‘Cortile’, or courtyard. Vagrancy and homeles- sness were a big problem in 16th and 17th century Italy; on account of its purpose and structure the Apostolic Institute was viewed as a model throu- ghout Europe in terms of its public assistance to orphans, the needy, older persons and ‘spinsters’. Assistance was furthered by apprenticeships, leading on to the establishment of the School of Arts and Crafts. The children sheltered at San Michele were given a Christian education, reading and writing, as well as a craft. The latter varied from engravings, copper works, sculpture, painting, weaving, stucco and mosaic decorating, music and press printing. Under the auspices of Cardinal Tosti, the Schools became a cen- tre of excellence for the training of artists. The School was renown for its fine tapestries which Pontiffs would freely bestow unto foreign legates. One remarkable enclosure within the tapestry workshop is the Sala dello Stenditoio (the hanging hall), where tapestries were hung up to dry and after dying. The former juvenile detention centre – where the INBETWE- EN exhibition takes place – built by Fontana was used almost exclusively as a prison by the late 1800s, housing the political opponents of Pope Pius IX. The building still served as a correction centre for the young as recently as 1972. TRAVEL NUMBERS Central Station, www.trenitalia.it Tel. 0647301 Taxis Tel. 064994 / 063570 / 066645 ACI (Automobile Club) 24 hr car breakdown Inspired by the 1970 Monumental Plan of Rome, by A. Ravaglioli and L. Piffero Tel. 116 Motorcycle 24 hr breakdown Tel. 800300411 / 330300411 Official Map of the City of Rome Airports (ADR) www.adr.it Fiumicino 24 hr flight info Tel. 0665953640 Fiumicino 24 hr lost baggage Tel. 0665954252 / 0665956777 Ciampino flight info Tel. 0665951 Ciampino lost baggage Tel. 0665959225

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EXQUISITE SITES 1 ON THE ESQUILINE THE AREA AROUND TERMINI STATION AND PIAZZA VITTORIO HAS LOTS TO OFFER IN TERMS OF HISTORY, CULTURE AND FOOD. FOLLOW OUR GUIDE AND GET A LINE ON THE ESQUILINE…

Below we look at a just selection of the many sites of interest THE ESQUILINO, OR ESQUILINE, IS ONE OF ROME’S MOST LIVELY in the modern Esquilino ‘rione’, or district, an area comprised QUARTERS AND CERTAINLY ITS MOST COSMOPOLITAN. SEVERAL between the four corners of the Basilica of St. Mary Major, LARGE IMMIGRANT COMMUNITIES ORIGINATING FROM CHINA, Termini Station, the Church of Santa Croce in Gerusaleme BANGLADESH, NORTH AFRICA AND OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD and the . LIVE HERE. BEING NEAR TERMINI RAILWAY STATION AND CLOSE TO THE CENTRE, THE AREA IS ALSO PACKED WITH HOTELS AND YOUTH This is one of Rome’s four ‘major’ basilicas. It was founded by HOSTELS. THE STREETS ARE BUSY WITH TOURISTS AND ALTHOUGH Pope Liberius (352-66) on the site of a miraculous snowfall said to have taken place on 5 August 358. The current basili- MOST ARE ON THEIR WAY TO THE CENTRE, THE AREA ALSO INCLU- ca was built by Sixtus III (432-40) and underwent conti- DES MANY SITES OF INTEREST, FAMOUS OR LESS WELL KNOWN, nuous alterations throughout the centuries, reflecting the INCLUDING ANCIENT ROMAN RUINS, PROMINENT CHURCHES AND importance of the cult of the Virgin, including the current baroque façade added on in the eighteenth century under MUSEUMS. Benedict XIV and designed by Ferdinando Fuga (1743-50). History Every 15 August the Feast of the Assumption of Mary takes The Esquiline is one of Rome’s seven historic hills and by far place in the basilica. the most expansive. It rises from the area right (Open 09.30-18.00) up to Termini station and as far as to the Via Carlo Alberto 47 east. The so-called , which probably dates back to the fourth century BC, used to run across the hill. Some traces of the ancient defences are still visible, including a large Just a stone's throw away from Santa Maria Maggiore lies the section by Termini station. beautiful and less well-known early medieval church of Santa During the period of the Republic the Esquiline was chiefly Prassede. It was built in 822 under Pope Pascal I on the site a burial ground for poor people and slaves. It only became of a titulus, a private house where Christian services were populated from the first century, while the area was transfor- held in Antiquity. Inside, the most notable elements are the med under Augustus, who made it one of the city’s 14 chancel mosaics, a ninth century combination of Byzantine districts. In the middle ages the whole area became known as traditionalism and Carolingian art, and the golden mosaics in and was mostly run-down, as was the rest of the the chapel of San Zenone, which date from the same period. Photos: ancient city. Next to the chapel is the other major feature of the church: 1. Porta Maggiore, meeting point of After Rome became the capital of Italy in 1870, the Esquiline the Holy Column, said to be the one on which Christ was several ancient aqueducts changed completely. From a bucolic area covered in vines and flagellated. Brought from Jerusalem by a cardinal of the pro- 2. Turin-like architecture on Rome’s gardens, it was transformed into one of Rome’s modern nei- minent Colonna family, the relic used to be an important Piazza Vittorio ghbourhoods as the land was used for residential develop- object of cult until the Second Vatican Council reduced the 3. Via Nazionale leads from Piazza ment. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (commonly known as Repubblica to the city centre importance of relics in the 1960s (some have remarked that 4. Fresh fish at Mercato Esquilino Piazza Vittorio) in particular was used to house high-ranking the Holy column looks very much like part of a balustrade). 5. The ancient , after civil servants. The square’s architecture, with large arcades at Open for visits about one hour before services, which take which Rome’s central train station is street level, common in Turin, is unique in Rome. place at 18.00. named (‘Termini’ is a corruption of The current aspect of the heights of the Esquiline (the area The church dedicated toSanta Pudenziana, said to be Santa ‘Thermae’, Latin for baths). Part of the around Piazza di Santa Maria Maggiore and Piazza Vittorio) remaining structures host part of the Prassede’s sister, is found nearby. It dates from the late fourth National Museum of Rome is overwhelmingly the result of the period of the late-ninete- century and contains the earliest surviving Christian apse 6. The ceiling of the Chapel of San enth century and early-twentieth century, but various ele- mosaic in Rome. Today it is frequented by Rome’s Filipino Zenone in the church of Santa Prassede ments reflect other periods in the history of the area. community, who have their own chaplain there.

Ruins inside Piazza Vittorio The tall brick ruins found in the north-east corner of Piazza Vittorio (the one closest to Termini Station) are what is left of the Nymphaeum of emperor Alexander Severus (222- 235). The monument, which was probably originally covered in marble, used to encompass marble statues which now stand on both parts of the entrance to the Capitoline square. The water for the nymphaeum was carried by the Aqua Iulia, one of the several aqueducts crossing the area. Many of Rome's famous aqueducts bringing fresh water from the Alban Hills used to converge at Porta Maggiore, the highest point in the east of the city, before dispatching the water to different parts of the city. Via Nazionale Via Nazionale has a good mix of everything for both men and women and from cheap and cheerful to more upmarket chic. Plenty of well-known chain stores have a branch here such as Benetton, Stefanel and Intimissimi. For a dose of designer womenswear, try Lei on the corner of Via del Boschetto or Max Mara, further up towards Repubblica. The street has a pretty good selection of menswear shops, some of which will also do clothing alterations. Monti The area between Via Nazionale and the is perfect for anyone who likes idly wandering in cobbled side streets. Shops tend to be small and boutique- like selling antiques, vintage clothes and lots of unusual, often hand-made, bits and bobs. The main shopping streets are Via del Boschetto, Via dei Serpenti, Via Leonina, Via Panisperna. Look out for Pulp, Spazio Artigiano and the irresistible La Bottega del Cioccolato. Piazza Vittorio Very much the bargain basement of this area, Piazza Vittorio doesn’t offer much by way of high fashion but it does offer plenty of opportunity to pick up clothes, shoes, accessories and even food at rock bottom prices. MAS, on the corner, is a must for anyone who likes a good rummage and across the road Jenny Fur has a huge selection of leather and fur jackets. There are a number of international food stores and the Chinese supermarkets in the area are also great for picking up odds and 2

SHOPPING ends. MARKETS The Mercato Esquilino is an old outdoor mar- ket that recently moved ‘indoors’ to the reno- FOOD vated buildings a couple of blocks east of Piazza Vittorio. The market is divided into a food section, with good cheap produce, meat AND DRINK and fish, and clothing too with garments, Because of its cosmopolitan character, the shoes and luggage at low prices but not always great quality. Food stalls tend to close Esquiline offers cuisine from around the in the afternoons. world. As in other parts of Rome, you can easily find Chinese restaurants, but you can also find other types of food which are harder to find in the rest of the city, such as Korean, Arabic, Ethiopian and Indian cuisine. There 3 4 are also a few typical Italian spots such as gelaterie and wine bars. Unfortunately, there are also many restaurants offering a mediocre substitute for authentic Italian cuisine to hungry and tired tourists.

Popular Chinese ‘Hang Zhou’ is one of the most popular Chinese restaurants in Rome. Located in Via S. Martino ai Monti just off Via Merulana, it is small and always crowded. The place owes its popularity par- tly to its lively atmosphere and presentation: waitresses wear traditional Chinese dresses and carrot sculptures adorn every dish. Hang Zhou, Via S. Martino ai Monti 33/c

Ethiopian-Eritrean cuisine ‘Africa’ was the first Ethiopian restaurant in Rome. It serves Injera (Ethiopian crepe), Yataklete Kilkil (gingered vegetable stew), Kifto ground beef or other spicy specialities from one of the oldest nations in the world. Africa, Via Gaeta 26. Tel. 064941077

Kebab house A large restaurant and take away offering kebabs, falafel and a series of ready made oriental 5 6 dishes and desserts (all at very competitive prices). ‘Shawarma Station’ offers a good alternative for those who want to eat something without having to wait. Located on Via Merulana, just 50 metres from the basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, it has a room with tables at the back. Shawarma Station, Via Merulana 71 National Museum of Rome at Palazzo Massimo Palazzo Massimo houses a wide range of ancient Roman objects including fine Irish pubs examples of the decorations used on imperial villas and aristocratic residences, a ‘Druid’s Den’ is an atmospheric hole-in-the-wall Irish pub with live Irish folk music on Mondays. rich coin collection and works that illustrate the political and ideological programme Happy Hour every day from 18.00 to 20.00. of Augustus, including the statue of Augustus dressed as the Pontifex Maximus. Druid’s Den, Via San Martino ai Monti 28. Tel. 0648904781 The museum was chosen to display one of the most important archaeological ‘The Fiddler’s Elbow’ is the oldest Irish pub in Rome (open since 1976). It hosts a traditional Irish discoveries of recent years in Rome: a sceptre believed to have belonged to music session on Wednesdays and is equipped with pool tables and darts as well as TV screens Emperor Maxentius, who ruled for six years until 312 AD. The object, which is top- showing English Premiership, rugby, golf, etc. ped by a blue orb representing the earth, was discovered on the at the The Fiddler’s Elbow, Via dell’Olmata 43. Tel. 064872110 end of 2006. Largo di Villa Peretti 1. Tel. 0639967700 Wine shop and bar Trimani is the oldest wine shop in Rome: Francesco Trimani used to sell bottles in his shop in Via National Museum of Rome: Baths of Diocletian di Panico in the historic centre as early as 1821 and in 1876 the family business moved to Via Close to Palazzo Massimo another section of the museum, set amongst the sixte- Gioto, where it is still based today. More recently the owners opened a wine bar nearby serving enth century gardens and Cloister of Michelangelo and located inside the ruins of ‘aperitivo’ and a wide range of quality wines. the third-century Baths of Diocletian, houses a rich collection of antique altars and Trimani, Via Goito 20 funerary sculpture and inscriptions. Trimani Wine Bar, Via Cernaia 37/b. Tel. 064469630 Via E. de Nicola 78 Ice cream parlour Museo nazionale d’arte Orientale The Palazzo del Freddo, or ‘cold palace’, claims to be “the oldest Italian ice cream factory”. The Housed in the nineteenth century Palazzo Brancaccio on Via Merulana, the family who own it have been making ice cream since 1880 and have been based in its current

MUSEUMS National oriental arts museum houses diverse collections of objects, from artefacts location since 1928. The wide, open space inside, which looks more like a train station hall than from Shahr-i-Sokhta (a Bronze Age urban settlement in the southeast of Iran) to an ice-cream parlour, provides tables to sit down and rest a bit. The gelateria is busy all hours more recent painted fabrics and sculpted wooden windows from Tibet and Nepal. and closes at midnight. Tue-Sat 09.00-19.00; Sun 09.00-13.30 Palazzo del Freddo Giovanni Fassi Palazzo Brancaccio, Via Merulana 248. Tel. 064873262 Via Principe Eugenio 65-67 L’Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio is Italy’s major cultural sensation of the moment. The group, created in 2002 and revealed to the general public in a documentary film last year, is playing concerts at an astonishing rate in Rome, Italy, Europe and elsewhere. With musicians from Senegal, Ecuador, Italy, Cuba, Tunisia, Brazil, etc., the band is a reflection of Piazza Vittorio, the central square in the Esquiline district after which it is named. The multi-ethnic ensemble was the brainchild of director Mario Tronco, a Rome-based musician from Caserta (near Napoli) who dreamed of bringing together local musicians from the different immi- grant communities in the Esquiline, where he had just moved. The result of his difficult but passionate quest is a well-tuned fusion of sounds and genres as well as an example of companionship between people from dif- ferent cultures. The band has produced two albums and the film narrating the group’s story, ‘L’Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio’ (2006), was a box office success. The film won an Italian DVD Award for Best Musical Documentary and it was presented at Robert De Niro’s Tribeca Film Festival in New York this year. www.orchestradipiazza- vittorio.it

THE MULTIETHNIC GOES ON BEAT

Set in an old theatre just a stone’s throw from , the RISTOTHEATRE Centrale Ristotheatre is based on the concept of the dinner-show. Guests can taste the in-house Mediterranean cuisine while enjoying the magical atmosphere of the location, its modern design and the show. Performances, which vary from evening to evening, range from dance to magic and from Italian cantautori (singer-songwriters) to cabaret and comedy. There is also a wine bar where clients can have a drink and relax while listening to laid-back music. After the meal and the show the club transforms into a discotheque with different types of music including international pop and house. Centrale Risto-Theatre, Via Celsa (near Piazza Venezia) Tel. 066780501 www.centraleristotheatre.com MUSEUMS CAPITOLINE CENTRALE The ‘Musei Capitolini’ represent one of the world’s greatest and coins. Early in 2006 a new wing was opened to house collections of the artistic and cultural heritage of ancient Rome. important exhibits such as the Equestrian stature of the empe- Situated on Rome’s famous Piazza del Campidolgio, designed ror Marcus Aurelius, a copy of which stands in the middle of by Michelangelo Buonarroti, on the crest of the the piazza, and to make visible the substantial ruins of the fifth- they are commonly referred to as the world’s first museums, century BC Temple of the Capitoline Jupiter. A tunnel linking tracing their origins back to Pope Sixtus IV’s donation in 1471 the two main buildings on either side of the piazza with the of several ancient Roman bronzes (among which the giant- that looks out onto the historic , sized third-century head of the emperor Constantine). Since was opened to the public at the same time. The museums are then the museums’ premises have been expanded and the col- owned and operated by the municipality of Rome. lections enriched with ancient Roman statues, inscriptions, and other artifacts as well as medieval and Renaissance art, jewels

Canova – A feel of the The SAID Chocolate Factory The ‘Antica fabbrica del cioccolato’, set in the heart of the historic working class district of San Lorenzo, is a successful example of industrial conversion. The chocolate factory was ‘old Rome’ first founded by Aldo De Mauro in 1923. Closed down due to wartime bombing and reo- Set on one side of the vast and elegant , Canova pened by Aldo’s son Bruno in 1956, it was recently transformed into a trendy shop, bar and is a remnant of the Rome of the 1950s and 60s. Frequented by restaurant with the help grandchildren Carla and Fabrizio. The entrance looks like an eve- artists and filmmakers including the great Federico Fellini, many ryday garage, but inside the design is modern. In a unique atmosphere with suffused lights, literary and film projects were discussed in the restaurant or the a large rectangular table in the center is covered in chocolate bars of all types. The walls are terrace looking onto the animated but pleasant piazza. The large lined with well-stocked bookshelves, wooden drawers and large transparent jars containing oval open area, redesigned by architect Valadier in 1834, has candy of all colors, and old machines are displayed by the fresh praline counter. The restau- recently been transformed into a pedestrian zone and it is the star- rant serves tasty homemade style cuisine. ting point to the classic walks along Rome’s baroque ‘trident’ for- Antica fabbrica del cioccolato, Via 135. Tel. 064469204 www.said.it med by , Via del and Via Ripetta. The three streets begin on the south side of Piazza del Popolo, where Canova is located, by the sister churches of S. Maria dei Miracoli and of Montesanto. These two buildings were started by Carlo Rainaldi and completed by Bernini and Carlo Fontana. Canova, Piazza del Popolo 17 “CONNECTING YOUTH TO WORK AND CITIZENSHIPOPPORTUNITIES” 2007 ECA YOUTH CONFERENCE INNOVATION GRANTS COMPETITION FINALS AND SHOWCASE IN ROME ITALY ON MAY 21-25, 2007

Organized and sponsored by the World of between 5,000 and 10,000 - to put Bank and Nokia, the Innovation Grants their ideas into practice. Competition invited youth organizations to In the past, the World Bank has run various share their ideas for projects designed to grant competitions such as the help young people in their transition to Development Marketplace which has work or to support their active citizenship awarded schemes ranging from forest from Belarus who want to set up an inte- The sustainability of the project beyond and participation in society. These are management practice in Latvia to projects ractive website for school graduates, provi- the initial funding was also an important increasingly important issues in the ECA to improve masonry housing in earthqua- ding them with advice and information on factor in the selection process as well as its Region; successful transitions are integral ke-prone areas of Turkey. The ECA Youth finding jobs as well as collecting and potential for growth, the extent to which its to social and economic well-being while Conference Innovation Grants publishing stories from its users, allowing effectiveness can be measured and the active citizenship means not just having Competition, however, is aimed specifical- them to share and learn from each other’s presence of a realistic timescale and bud- one’s voice heard but learning to demand ly at youth. Not only do the ideas and pro- experiences. Bosnia- youth group, OI get. Promoting gender equality and enga- justice for oneself and others and tolera- posals come from youngsters themselves “K.O.J.O.T.I” propose a new technology ging marginalized groups such as ethnic ting people who are ethnically or religiou- but those responsible for carrying out the which uses water to power small chargers and religious minorities also adds weight sly different. project must also be between the ages of Competition applicants had to be from 15 and 24 making it a unique opportunity for lights, radios and mobile phones and to the proposal. Eastern European and Central Asian coun- for young people in the region. will be useful to campers as well as moun- The participants of the Rome Conference tries (ECA), between the ages of 15 and 24, The competition was looking for small- tain areas and villages without electricity. will have a chance to visit the showcase of and part of a registered youth NGO or at scale, novel, “out-of-the-box” ideas that Of the proposals focusing on citizenship, a the finalist projects during the event, and least working in partnership with one. clearly aim to improve the opportunities Russian group have applied to build an vote for the best project. The finalists them- Having submitted proposals throughout and outcomes for young people in ECA. ecological trail on the shores of Lake selves can exchange ideas with former March and April, 20 finalists were selected The focus is very much on innovation with Baikal in Pribaikalsky National Park as part winners of the Developmental on May 2, 2007. The finalists will present Nokia and the World Bank looking for new of a ‘Trail to the Future’ volunteer project Marketplace, with each other as well as their projects to the Competition Jury and ideas, new processes or technologies, or that will teach participants about team- with the other conference participants. The to participants at the ECA Youth novel ways of combining old ideas to work and cooperation as well as about Award Ceremony takes place on May 24 Conference in Rome on May 21-25, follo- create something new. nature conservation and sustainable as part of the closing events of the confe- wing which, 10 winners will receive grants Among the finalists are NGO-Focus Group living. rence. Citizenship Employment

Finalists: Project Title: Location: Description: Finalists: Project Title Location: Description:

Centre for “Nothing about is - without Macedonia, Raising awareness about the importance St. Petersburg "Upsala-circus" Russia Helping youth from groups at Intercultural us!” Serbia, of youth participation in local communi- Regional social risk reintegrate into society Dialogue Bulgaria and ties in the cross border areas of the Charitable NGO by providing psychological sup- Kosovo Central Balkans. for Aid port, assisting them in finding a job and developing civic responsibility. Centre of “We want to be heard” Bosnia and Students including the deaf and blind Cultivating Herzegovina choose 5 local community problems Bulgarian "Youth Entrepreneurship Bulgaria Providing entrepreneurial training Dialogue through a TV debate broadcast on pub- Network for Child Connection " and consultancy to young gradu- lic networks and a media search. and Youth ates, focusing particularly on dis- Trafficking advantaged and disabled youth. GARIWO “Imam petlju” (‘Having what Bosnia and A sweeping bus tour of 8 cities involving Prevention Sarajevo it takes’) Herzegovina interactive visits aimed at fighting the Cerebra " New skills for new working Bosnia and Providing young people with train- widespread pessimism in BiH that leads challenges Herzegovina ing to help them gain knowledge to emigration. and worldwide recognized skills.

Great Baikal “Trail to the Future” Russia A group of young Russian and foreign Interregional " Start in real life" Russia Organizing internships and work Trail Association volunteers will draw out an ecological Public experience to help graduates trail along the shores of Lake Baikal with- Organization gain practical skills and profession- in the Pribaikalsky National Park. Ecological Center al contacts as well as a better Strizh insight into the world of work. Initiative Group “Comics Journal” Tajikistan A 21st century Comic Journal covering of Youth issues like reproductive health, human Istiqbolli Avlod " Fighting against job stereo- Uzbekistan Setting up seminars and work- rights, gender, corruption, traditions and types; giving youths free busi- shops aimed at marginalized religion for and by 15-24 year-olds. ness environment after sec- youth from rural communities to ondary education" provide them with post-secondary training and encouraging them to Siberian “Youth active citizenship for Russia Strengthening youth parliaments in the think positively. Initiative solving problems of com- Altai region by providing young people munity” there with information about their rights NGO Focus-group " Web-novels about school Belarus Creating an interactive web site to and helping them to advocate their inter- graduates, written by gradu- provide information and career ests. ates" guidance for job-seekers and to gather and share stories and Student Union “Creation of a centre of stu- Russia Independent student centre to provide experiences with other young peo- Committee - dents’ initiative” information and consulting services to ple. Stolypin Volga students in four fields: business, scientific Region and research, education and social OI "K.O.J.O.T.I" " Water chargers for mobile Bosnia and Producing small water-powered Academy for affairs. phones, radio and lights" Herzegovina chargers for mobile phones, Civil Services radios, and lights for camping, mountain houses, and village Student Union “PeRLA” (‘Personal Radio Belarus Creation of a youth developed and homes. Organization, Legal Adviser’) managed radio program “PeRLA” dedi- International cated to issues of vital interest to young- Public Fund “Info- " Workshops for the Kyrgyzstan Enabling young people to learn Institute of Labor sters: employment, education, health Center Rainbow” Maintenance of Mobile and work simultaneously, acquir- and Social and civil rights. Phones" ing increasingly useful technical Relations skills as well as practical business experience. Youth volunteer “League of young leaders”Kyrgyz Creating a youth league to educate organization Republic Karakol’s under-25s (30% of the popula- Rehabilitation " Integration of disabled chil- Uzbekistan Providing training and professional “Leadership” tion) about local government through club, Bektemir dren and teenagers of skills to young women from disad- training, information and active partici- branch of “Hayot Tashkent city" vantaged backgrounds, focussing pation. Ishonchi” (Trust in particularly on those with limited Life) ability. YouthFund YouthFund Novi Sad - “Move Serbia Helping young people to become Board Novi Sad yourself” responsible and active citizens by organ- Tighina Volunteer " Employment for young Moldova Helping orphans in Bender find izing the local community initiatives Center orphans" employment through interest and through the YouthFund Novi Sad board. needs-based training and consul- tancy.