(pJoO
Ak&HlCA 3ATS
New Mexico Cookory
Porevord West of the old-type kitohene of New Mexico are missing today* • ith the* have gone the earthen pota with frl.i and chile con oc*rne cooking in the corner adobe fireplaces; also, in many homes, the flat atones heating for the baking of tortillas; absent, too, the sting of ohile peppere in the kitehen air, the pungent odor of garlic and onions, and herbs hanging from walls an*i viaas* Yet here and there are Now Mexican housewives, practised in the art of early Spanieh-Mexican cookery, serving with pride a wide variety of dishes that ara strange and unusual to peoplo of other parts of the United states*
Vhen New Mexicans apeak of Spanish foods, it is well to remember that there are four divisions! reoi.es brought direct free Spain by world travelers, and converted to their own usee; those coming from Latin- America, Central or louth America by way of bpaln an. Portugal long before; the recipes of our neighbor, Maxico; and lastly, those dienes that have been in use here for some centuries, cooing from the same original source, but more strongly identified with materials and ingredients easily procurable or indigenous to New Mexico*
New Mexico's menu would be inoomplete without the old-time dishes* Nothing reflects the life of a people more than what they ate and how they prepared thoir food; consequently, something must be said of the two most important items of food that distinguish New Mexican cookery, mainly oorn and anile. 2 .
Chile
Since eo many dishes require chile in their preparation, that should be mentioned first. The first apparent record of it8 use is by uhauoa, a physician in the fleet of Columbus in 1492, who alludes to it as a condiment, /riters a century later considered it an aid to digestion. It was used Radically in various preparations. Strands of chile peppers, semi-dried and aac-ed, are shipped from Hew Mexico to all parts of America today. Metal dru e of the pulverised peppers, and even packaged chile foods, are shipped to canneries, meat pecking houses, find wholesale grocers from coast to coast.
For the native fJe# Mexican, chile— the hotter the better— is an indispensable part of the diet, like bread or potatoes to the average outsider* Ground and powdered chile oan be bought, but ths native Hew Mexican would rather buy the strings of chile pods and propers hie own. Oreen chiles should be picked wnen fully matured, just before th*y turn red. To prepare them for use, the pods are washed and dried, than toasted on top of the stove, turning the as they begin to blister, dhen evenly blistered and the skin puffed away frost the pulp, the pods are laid on a cloth, sprinkled with «et«r, and covered with another cloth to steam. Ths skins may than be pulled off, end the veinc and seeds removed. Fresh green chile is often served in this way with meat or eggs. To dry for winter use, ths pods are laid in the shade, because the direct rays of the sun destroy the color. They are turned often, and when thoroughly dried, stored in sacks. Before using, they ere soaked in tmrm water for half an hour, and then an shed into a pulp. Red chile is never used freeh except when prepared in the same way as dried green chile. It is dried in the sun, hanging usually against 3 the houses in th; h-javy scarlet ristrae (strings) which make such a brilliant color note in New Mexican fall landscapes. To prepare either fresh or aried red chile, the pods are wasnea, the atecs broken off, and reins and seeds removed. Put into cold water, they are allowed to boil slowly, moving the , ods about in the kettle without bruising thorn. After boiling about an hour, the skin slips off easily. Pulp and seeds are next strained through a colander, and in the 3&fte water in which the pods are boiled, the pulp is then boiled for about fifteen minutes, end salted to taste, the consistency being that of a thick gravy. In this prepared chile pulp, we have the secret ol‘ the best old-time New Mexican dishes. Ihile should always be freshly made to secure the bat results and the most delicets flavor. Needless to say, since chile turns the hands, it must te handled lightly. To make this chile pulp into sauce, there are numerous recipes, which Include fat, onions, garlic, salt, and »ater, with additional variants of marjoram, vinegar, ginger, cinnamon, horse radish, mustard seed, c-ilsry salt, or drown sugar added. SoOA-ing the sauces ranges in 8Q;r-e recipes from a naif hour over low heat to others that require boiling for two hours.
Nixtaaal (hominy) Nlxtamal is shelled corn whioh has b*en boiled in lime water until the hulls cen be removed, then dried to be ground and made into mnsa (m/
needed, and t’i h-usewtves -lao ground it ;ith :a.;tata ar.d oano. Although
this was sai to bo the taoro finely flavorjd, corn ® stl from the grocer's shelves has supplanted this f rur method.
Tortillas
These are by far the most important item of food among New Mexicans. Blue com meal is preferred, to which aalt and warm water are added and
mixed into a dough, A small portion is taken up end worked between the hanis into a biscuit shape* In earlier times, the cook continued to work this with her hands into s very thin, round disci to ay they use
dampened, cloth-covered Dressing boards. The tortilla is next cooked
upon a hot griddle, or more commonly, directly upon the stove top, being continuously pressed down with the hand to keep it flat and thin. Further use of the completed tortillas is in making enchiladas and tacos or to ;at as breed with other New Mexican dishes.
neb i lading
This* ar ® a from tortillas fried in het, a ap fat. ueoh one is
sprinkled with chopped onior; ©iv. grat d cheese, with chile b .uce added.
tied two in a stack, usually, a friod or poached arg is placed on top and more chile sauce added. For those who like their enchiladas rolled, the s&me filler as above is laid upon a tortilla about six inches in diameter, the tortilla folded over it, then folded agio. lacog To make these, tortillas are fried and folded through the center. A filler of boiled ground beef or pork and cooked, diced potatoes seasoned in ths Spanish way is addad, and theea are then served with chile sauce. b
(1) Various fillings, from cashed beans to chicken, cheese, and shredded lettuce are used* Tamales are fairly common wherever Mexican foods are known* In New Mexico, fresh corn meal or case is s*lted to taste and thoroughly mixed with lard and a bit of broth from the boiled pork that will later make up the filler* The boiled pork is then ground up and mixed with chile pulp, ground comino seed, and salted to taste* After that, in a griddle containing hot grease flavored with garlic, the ground boiled pork ie heated* The corn meal is spread on half a corn husk softened with warm water, the cooked pork is added, and the husk is then folded, after which ends of the husk are folded over* These are then placed in a deep iron kettle, in the botto- of which is boiling water containing empty corn husks built up to keep the t; males from soaking the water and becoming soggy* Aftar this, the tamales are thoroughly steamed*
Fosole df Nlxtamal Still using nixt .gal as the base, in this dish the hoairty is cooked until the kernels burst* Meat, pork rind and chile pods (with seeds and stems removed) are added* After further cooking, salt, garlic, and marjoram are added when almost dona.
Latsis Is iMssa This dish resembles posole de nixt&mal. with chicos substituted for the hominy. (Jhicos are green corn, steamed end dried on the cob, then shelled).
Wrecked dhloos In this dish, the dry chioos are cracked in a food chopper, cooked until tender, and melted fat, fried onions and garlic, ctiile sauce and 6. salt added. Snough liquid is laft in which the chlcos are cooked to make it tha consistency of a thiok soup.
Atola This is a corn gruel, and a very common dish for children, invalids, and old people* Blue corn meal is toasted in the oven to a delicate brown. Stirred into boiling, salted water, it ie boiled for about ten minutes, and served with enough hot milk to make a thin gruel.
This is a corn meal aueh, sliced cold and fried like ordinary mush, but served with chile sauce and the breakfast eggs, and la often a supper dish, served with ehlla instead of the usual tamales. Bluo corn meal is preferred by New Uexioan* for thie dish, although ths white is also used.
Heat Dishes In describing some of tho New Mexican swat dishes, chile on oarne should be mentioned first, as it is so wall known, at least by name. There «r* other well known dishes, such as albondigas (meat balls); piclan de leruua (tongue fricassee); arrot con polio (chioken with rioe); came adofcada (cured pork); carne de olla (stew) i estofada (ewaet stew); chile rellenoa (stuffed green peppers); mple poblrno. and la oils podrida. to name a few.
?hlle con ^arng This dish is made of ox tongue or tender beef boiled, then some of the meat etoc*ith onions and chile sauce, are added. If prepared with chicken meat, it is called mole poblano. The dish is seasoned to taste and served hot with fr.Joles and tortilla* in New Mexico. Another variant 7. is mutton or beef with half the quantity of pork, as well as ripe tomatoes and various condiments cooked into the mixture*
Boiled Dinner Since -notion was and etill is the meat most generally used by country housewives in Hew Mexico, it is appropriate that mention should be made of its use. For a boiled dinner, the bones are removed from a pieoe of lean mutton, and the meat tied to retain ite shape in cooking. Put into odd water and brought to a boil, vegetables are added (thoroughly cooked, 5und tied up in cheesecloth bags*). The whole dish simmers for three hours. An hour before serving, apples, chile pulp, and tomatoes (also snolosed in cheesecloth, separately*), are added, in addition to other condiments.
Game de marrane £ chile (pork with chile) In preparing this dish, a leg of pork has five or eix holes cut into it. Chile pulp, well seasoned, is inserted in the holes, and they are then plugged with the a at. It is afterwords roasted in a slow oven, and in the last half our it is basted with the same prepared chile pulp.
Game adobada This dish is mads of tender cuts of pork but into strips and soaked in a mixture of chile pulp and native seasoning, hung in a cool place to dry, and afterwards served roasted or fried. It keepe indefinitely, an:: gets stronger with age. »‘hen soaked out and cooked, it makes delicious stew,
•The cheesecloth treatment is not generally used. ■ osole (hog and hominy)
In some Hew Mexican recipes, cubed pork is added to oiions fried in fat. Hominy (or nixtamal as the New Mexican cook knows it), is added 8.
along with chile and other seasoning. Hot water la tdded, and the bosola allowed to slusr for about four hours, till the pork ie thoroughly tender. In other raoipes, pigs* feot are used.
Albom.i*88 (moat ball*) These delicious a at balls are served as a mein dish, preferably at noon, with blue corn seal giving them a distinctive flavor. They are made of ground round steak or other meat added to corn meal, beaten egg, and condiments. Shaped into balls the else of a walnut, they are dropped into a mixture of boiling fat and browned onion and flour flavored with mint and saffron. Another variant is made by adding cooked tomatoea and chile pulp, appropriately seasoned*
^ven-cooked Beof A method of cooking a wb le beef, ranch style, is related by a
Santa f*e resident, who says that when she wa: a girl on her father's ranch, about twenty-five years ago, it was their custom to roast a whole besf in thoir huge adobe outdoor ovon. The boef was dressed, head removed, • nd le-s cut off at the first joint, but the hide was left on. The oven was fired for two days beforehand, then the fire dr Jhlles hellenos (stuffed green peppers) This dish requires a mixture of ground boiled meat, hKrd-boiled eggs, chopped onion and chile. The peppers are prepared, then steamed. After stuffing them with the pr pared cooked meat, seasoned in the New Mexican way, they are then dipped in an eng bmtter and fried until brown. *• hilag -islleacs son oueso In this dish, the peppers ere stuffed with areamed cheese, dipped in an egg batter and fried, then set aside to drain. They are served hot, covered with e seasoned tomato sauce. Pipian de Len~ua (tongue fricassee) Beef tongue (or any kind of cooked s at} say be used. If tongue, it is boiled until tender, the 8kin resoved, and the tongue sliced. Into a gravy of roasted pumpkin seeds ground into powder, with heated fat, garlic, liquid end seasoning (with chile sauce, if desired), this m at is then placed in the vesnel and cooked for about fifteen minutes. lame Jo Clla (etew) The taste of this dish le lamb or beef etew meat, .hen the meat is cooked until nearly done, the bones are removed, and vegetables such as green beans, squash, corn on the cob, squash flowers, unc the native condiments are added, and it is then cooked until the vegetables are done. looida (stew) 8te-»B ar important, and meant to last several meals. The base of this one is fresh pork, beef, and baorn. Corn on the cob, chick peas, Irish potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, carrots, onions, celery, summer squash and cabbage aro some of the ingredients. An apple and pear are added last to the pot, which simmers for three or four hours. The soup 1# served first, r,aen the solids. On the second day, the corn ie cut from the cob, everything run through the meat 'rinder, and fried. Sauce containing chile pulp ie serve with this. Jatofada (sweet stow) Stew meat for this dish ie cooked about three-quarters done, then 10. cut into s k w II cubes. In a gravy of molted fat and brown-fried onions, the meat is then fried until brown. Raieine, moat stock, spiels, coooa or chocolate are added, and a cup o? wine may be substituted for part of the meat stook. After boiling for thirty minutes, tho etew ie ready to eerve. .vaaafc bundling -1* hen tha pig is prepared for roasting, the ineide io rubbed with salt and pepper ana etu.'fed with a dreesin' made of stale bread, onions, garlic, raieine, onlma.le (wild oel-ry root), and seasoning. )h«n roasted, a glace of wine is poured over it, and a red epple inserted in its mouth before serving. The same dressing ie ueed in roast turkey. Arroi con polio (rice with chicken) In this favorite Mew Mexican dish, the fowl ie dreeeed as for frying, covered with Folio he.Imp (stuffed chicken) The fowl is covered with boiling water and cooked for fifteen minutes, salt is added, B«d then the chicken ie cooked until almost tender. Boiled round etenk le t .on ground, and with raieine, salt, clovus, and cinnamon, makes up the stuffing mixture, which is browned in hot fat before using. After the chicken is stuffed, it ie b*.ked until tender, using the meat stock, spiced with cinnamon and doves, to baste it. Chickon .tawed ifi -/terry Chicken is cut up as for frying, covered with boiling water, and 11 boilad for fifteen minute*. Cnion, garlic, bay leaves, Bait and oregano (wild marjoram) are addad, tn>j it i« boiled elowly. An hour before the ohick?n is done, chile, olives, and sherry are added, and it ie ui-nmered until tander. The grovy ie thickened with flour and boiled for five minutas. This ie served with Spanish rioe. U QUa rod ride (sevo rv pot) i*ore nearly a true Spanish dieh, this ie ueed with a wide variety of stewed mete, decipae list the choice of saueage and bacon, mutton, beef, beef end eaueage, rabbit and oysters, leftov r meats, ham, poultry or ■'arae, or chicken end eaueage, to name a few, as their most foundations; fresh pork, turkey, duck, or n mixture of several, are ®leo ueed. The choice seems to depend on what is easiest for the cook to acquire. The dish, when finished, spproxir&otaa a stew that can be first ueed ae a soup, and later In the meal as a main course. It ie heavily seasoned and contain* many vegetables, which are ueed to ^arnieb the meat in serving the main coarse. lhichf:rrones (cracklings) Hade from the fat underlying skin of a hog, this meat is cut into small pieces, the fet rendered by cooking in the oven until a delicate brown, then trained *nd served cold, lightly salted. Burritos (little donkeys) These are tortillas, slightly thicker than usual, filled with chicharrcnyg. and then baked in a moderate oven. Caldoe (soups) Hew Mexican cookery has many oaldoa. distinguished from American soups mostly by their greater seasoning with onions, garlie, chile pulp. 12 and native condiments end apiece. Sopas. H a t e d aa New liexioan dishes, are generally of Mexican cookery, thia being the nome used for the Mexican soups. Sopaa in He* Mexico really refer to bread puddings, which are highly favored as detaerte. The culdos of New Uexico include the ueual vegetable* native to the region, as well aa albondlyas. rice, etc. Tieh Heavier seasoning also applies to the Rev Mexican cookery of fish. .Tiitafish are dipped in salted flour or corn meal and fried until brown, then served with a sauce of garlic and onion, tomatoes, chile, «aarjomn, vinegar, salt, and chopped green olives* In baking fish, it is stuffed with a mixture which has been heavily seasoned, blended, and fried, the filler being made up of beaten eggs, tomatoes, almonds, garlic, onions, and parsley. After stuffing, the fish is then baked or broiled in a greased dish. Codfish, after being soaked and well washed, ie fried in a ehile and garlic mixture* Sven shrimps are fried brown, r.ud then dropped ‘. t into chile sauce for serving* Vegetabios Calabaoltns (summer squash}* Is * ftvorite vegetable in Raw Uexiao* After being fried until tender, milk, green chile, end seasoning are added. Cooked again for'five minutes, it is ready to serve with grated cheese* frilolee (kidney beans) are a common article of diet alsof soaked over* night, they are boiled until tender, and s browned flour gravy added. t If soup is wanted, garlic, onion, oregano, chile, and additional cooking are required. After running it through a colander, the soup can be thinned with water if desired. rriiolae refritos are leftover beans that are mashed cold, then fried 13. in hot grease, Potatoes and chi la consists of an onion fried soft, with groan chile, salt, and cooked diced potatoes added, cooked in a snail amount of eater for about fifteen minutes. Pan da Papas (potato loaf) In tasking this dish, the potatoes are cookod in their skins, diced, and than folded into a mixture of •'oaten eggs, salt, pe;pert milk, and minced bacon. The resultant mixture is placed in n taking diah containing a little olive oil, and baked. Huedlta8. so called from their resemblance to little wheels, are a i*enten delicacy; those are sliced, dried cucumbers and squashes. Along with other dried vegetables and eggs, they are prepared in many *ays. Qualitas (gresr.s) For these, spinach, beet tops, mustard greens, or chard may bo used, although for centuries New Mexicans have used lambs quarter and purslane. Lambs quarter is a potherb, naturalized in America from Europe (chenepodlum) also known as goose foot. Fursiar.e is one of the annuals (portulaca oleraoea) of the portulaca family, used as • potherb that is widely distributed in both hemispheres, which in sandy soil becomes a troublesome weed. The greens'mentioned above are washed, chopped up, and fried with chopped onion, chile seeds, and cooked beans, and for flavoring, salt pork which has besn finely cut* i Snsaladas (salads) Two populair salads ars enaalnda da berroe. a water crass salad, containing also ground green pimiento, onion, lettuce, beets, olive oil, and garlic; and ensalada dc rabar.os (radish salad). Others in use are 14. V tomato, Kexicnn, Maxicerr Hat, bean, avocado, *tc. Fe;pera, chile powctor, tomatoes, pini-.nto, lettuce, colory, muctard, green chile, oniono, and garlic figure largely in those. The main requisite ie pun; ancy. In this category, froah green c'nile must not ba overlooked. To prepere this, graen chile pode are washed, then roaeted in the oven, broiler, on top of the stove. After that they are steamed by covering thee with a damp cloth, tfhen the ekine are loosened, ekina, stems, and seeds are removed. They are then chopped fine, aeaaoned with garlio and salt, and served as a relish. Broads and Cookies Tortillas do Trlgo (ah’at cakes) These are round cakes requiring flour and baking powder in their ■akeup. They ara about one-eighth inch in thickness when rolled out in the dough, and are oooked on stove-top, griddle, or in the oven, being browned on both sides. Buftueloe (fritters) Theae are flour and baking powder cakes that ere slit in the center and fried in deep fat. Molletee (sweet rolls) Ti These are made with dry or compressed yeast, the dough allowed to rise till double in bulk, and baked in a hot oven. Bltoochitoe s These are fancy email oakes, a favorite with Hew Uoxieans, mads of flour and baking powder. Vith wine, they are popular at christenings and weddings, and were formerly served with morning coffee to the women who had breakfast in bed. They were not recommended for the children’s 15 cookie jar, bain?; t o rich. These were flavores with anise seed, usually uustec with ugar an; cinnamon, and were always out into fancy shades, the corfacn_.it of which was in the ehtfe of a whirlig, made by forming the small buscuits in squares then cutting the dough from n nr center to each corner, and turning the points over towards the center, before raking. Iafih££ Those, nr.de in the form of crullers, are of beaten eggs, malted Fat, sugar, flour, : nd brandy; and are baked in a asc-derete oven until they begin to burst* iusElroa These iaintiee are mode of stiffly beaten egg yolks and pulv-rixed sugar and baked in a moderate oven in pans lined with wax paper* Karauasotow These consist chiefly of eggs end sugar; flour is ueed in some, com starch in others. Bf-ked at moderate heat. Htfsaalso Hiiiaat These sweet fried cakes ere used mostly for serving with chocolate. Made with flour and baking powder, eggs, sugar, milk, fat, and salt, the dough is cut into irsch-und-a-half squares, about a quarter-inch thick, then fried in deep fat until brown. /hile hot, they are covered with sugar and cinnamon. Desserts Jaoirotada (bread pudding), r nks as one of New Mexico's favorite desserts. This is a caseerole dish made from toasted bre«d, sugar. raisins, and grated cheese. It is topped with a drenching of syrup before 16. fcakin. in moderate eve-.. Natillas (boiled custard) Tile la a popular combination of eggs, flour, sugar, and milk, with cinnamon sprinkled over the top# ranocha (sprouted wheat dessert) Typically New Mexican, this is usually a Lenten dish. The sprouted wheat flour, which is the basic ingredient ana controls the excellency of the dish, may be prepared either at home or purchased at tho grocery. ■lie flour has its own sugar content, and mixea with whole wheat flour, butter, sugar, hiui boiling water, is xade in the following fashion into pano^ha: the two flours, to which boiling watar is added, are then allowed to sttst. Uere boiling water ie later aided, and the mixture, with additional ingredients, cooked fer two lours. After ard, it is oven-cooked in an open vessel until quite thick nd ■ deep brown. LmoanaJitas (fried turnovers) A mincemeat filler is used consisting of boiled meat, raisins, cloves, coriander a;ed, sugar, applesauce or jam, end cinnamon. First, yeast dough is rolled fairly stiff end not allowed to rise, being cut into biscuits and rolled to an i/hth-inch thickness. A portion of dough is then folded evsr a teaspoenful and a half of the filler, The edges are next folded and crimped with the fingers, end after standing thus for several minutes, they are fried In deep fat until brown. wuesadillas (native cheese) This delicacy is made from either cows' or goats' milk. Junket or rennet tablets are added to the lukewarm milk, - nd #i®n firmly set, curia ard whey are separated. For quesadillas, a chsese twenty-four hours old 17. is tha bast. It is- sliced In qu&.rter-ii ch thicks-sees, sprinkled with sugar anc cinAar.on, ana melted in a mode rate oven. It is then served with the sauce which gathers in the pan while baking. Oua.lada This is another caeese dish, served with a sprinkling of sugar end cinnax.a. due■o de ¥»ca This cows’ milk ohoesa is <»ade from cua.laaa. It is served slioed, with maple syrup, sugar, or just salt &nd pepper. For fiestas, the soon, with its laysrs of apples, butter and sugar, and choose browned on top was served as a matter of course. This bread pu ding was dueled with cinnas.on and served with a hot wine sauce. Or the aaaunallt.-'S. with the stuff!.of toiled tongue, perhaps, with currants, piifcnes, spioee, :*nd v.a-. Or soaacillas. sweet hollo* cushions of puff pasta, fried like doughnuts and eatsn with hot, homoiiade syrup. Also the blzccchitos ware used, fancy and sugar-glazed, or the glorified rice pudding, a roz cor, Leoho (rice with Ilk). Pilonciilo. the brown Mexican sugar that comes in 12-ouncs cones, is a sweat that is rapidly giving way to tha more easily acquired Americ n product. Staw Mexican oldtimers explain its use chiefly as candy, or us a candy-making ingredient. One groceryisan enjoyed eating ailoncillo with his atola. A Santa Fe importer revealed t at its use ie diminishing, the younger generation knowing little of it. The same resident attributed its benef t to be equal to our present day belief in the superior qualities of wnole wheat flour over tae white. Another belief among cider New Mexicans is that there are mildly curative qualities in the coarse brown sweetening. Cne stuteu taut her motn*r gave her children pilonciilo to ea- to prevent b<*d-#etting. la. beverage* ■Ihoooleta This is a most popular Maw Mexican bf-vernge, but made differently from tdo American way. It must bo thicker, t.ni untouched by metal apeons, to euit the New Mexican housewife, who uses the moiiniilo. or wooden cnocolate beater instead, twirling the stem between her palms to nix the drink. To moke it, milk in heated to boiling with cinnamon and coffee, than it is strained and the chocolate, di: solved in boiling water, ie added. Again tha mixture ie heated to boiling, salt and vanilla ere adled, end tha whole beaten with the moiiniilo until foamy. 'ometimee it is made ao thick that it can be sopped up with the burtueloe served with it, instead of drinking it. olvi Ho This i» a drink made from toasted wheat flour which has been brewnod in the oven. The flour is dissolved in water, poured into boiling water, sweetened, «*nd thoroughly cooked. Champurrado ie really of Mexican origin. It ie a chocolate beverage made with atole instead of water. Buffalo Barbecue On January 19, 1934, Messrs. Jesse L. Hausbaum, director of the Laboratory of anthropology at uanta Fe, and J.J. Faria, ^Superintendent of the Santa Fa Indian ; generation, It was.- th;ir firet meal of a kind which had bsen the chief item of thfir forbears' diet. For tha patriarchs or the various tribes, it was h harking back to the dr ye when the white aien wee a minority in the 'est. The too numerous horde of tho Yellowstone Park were responsible for tha unusual feast. Four buffalo ceroaseas were secured, nd as it waa impossible to divide thee# properly aaton eo many pueblos, the barteque for all at the Indian dehool grounds was the happy aolution. It also gave many of the Indians some knowledge of the school where th-sir children were being educat'd, acquainting the® with the adv ntageB their children were receiving. The me*t was roasted in a pit forty-five f .et Ion • and three feet wide under the supervision of Dee Bibb, an old time cowman, assisted by ten boys from the Indian School. Tho fires core started in the b rbeque pit ■?arly tha day befor.;, and a bed of coals more than 18 inches thick was ready at seven in h evening. Prcra then until eleven o'clock the next morning, tha meat was roasted ov r the coals on large gratis, being turned every fifteen minutes by b o s -? of the holp-ira nd well basted with a fcarbeque solution containing molasses and salt. At elevon o’clook in the morning, the carving began. The four buffaloes, all young ones, had been browned to a turn, an5 the heart ■ ' net tonx"u®8 had b ?en ro sled in -he Indian School ovene. bong lines of Indiana waitod patiently to pass the serving tables where they received 1 a food. The rev ranee with which the Indians handled this food clearly indicated that to them it waa one of tha great everts of their livos. 20. Bibliography The bibliography ei-ply lets sources. Recipes given have not been copied fro® these its-**. New Mexico State College of Agriculture and ^echardlc Arts Xxtension Circular No. 161, May 1939i Historic Cookery. Fer-'uason, 5rna» Mexican Cookbook. Kydal Press, Santa Fe, 1934 Purt, Klinor. 011a Podrida. Caxton Printers, Ltd. Caldwell, Idaho. 1938. Abreu, Margaret. In the New Mexico Kitchen, Now Mexico Magazine, June 1939, p. 38 Ibid. July 1939, p. 3-» Ibid. August 1939, p. 33 Ibid. Septenber 1939, p. 34 Hid. Catcher 1939, p. 38 liid. December 1939, p. 33 ihuart, Harry K. i Tie Indian and the Buffalo Hold a Reunion} New Mexico Magazine, February 1934. Mrs. Carmen Abrou >ard. Interview, December 2, 1941 Reoipee of Today The following recipes of Done Sloisa elgado ds Stewart of Santa Fe have come down through several generations in her fyrally. They are served in her restaurant, today in her famous 151 flato Sabroeo. Menudo (tripe) Cut tripe into very euall pieces. *nsh carefully. Place In kettle with at‘sr to cover, add oriicpe and cook over very elow fire until soft and tender. Add salt, garlic, onion, a teaspoonful of orer, no, and a few c ile pods to cult tea’s. Cook thirty minutes longer, ihole canned corn 21. may bo used ins ead of ohieoa / Tort»- :.q Huevo con Jans&ron (eggs vith shrimp) 4 og*» 2 cups chile sauce or chile ceribe (mas sod fey hand) \ cup powdered, or 1 cup shredded, shrimp 1 teaspoonful flour 1 teaspeonful salt. Beat whites of egg until stiff, add yolks, salt, flour, and shrimp. Drop with tablespoon into daep fat, browning loth sides. Drain wsll. Just before serving, pour chile sauce over tortas. Green c lie or canned tomatoes may be ueed instead of red eiile sauce. Soaa do Dorrsaho (drunkard's pudding) 9 slices toasted bread 11 oa. piloncillo or brown sugar 1 cup gratsd yellow cheese 2 wine glas es of sweet wine £■ cup shelled pinon nuts cup seedless raisins or chopped walnuts % clove teaspoonful cinnamon Dice the bread. Flnoe the pllonci lo or brown sugar in a pint of water, with the cinnamon and clove, in a aaucap&n to boil. Keep boiling s cwly unt 1 this reduces to about one-half. In a basing pan, place a layer of brsad and then a layer of grated cheese, raisins and nuts. Add another layer of bread and continue until all the ingredients are ussd. Pour sauce over all. Put in a moderate oven for about thirty ainutae. ihen it is removed from the oven, sprinkle with the wine. Doh& Iloisa confirms the statement that there was no general use of cs tain dishes at wakes, weddings, or during Lent, although biacoshitos. raarouesotoB. ouches, and susolros were ex.acted at weddings? at wakes, chile c n came was most apt to bs served, along with empanadas. s o p s pi Has. and coffee. The Lenten dishes as a rule included atole, shrimp, garbenao. chicos. oalabacitas. .'nd greens.