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This systematic outline provides a general overview of the conceptual scheme of the En- cyclopedia, listing the titles of each entry. The outline is divided into seven broad subject areas and then subsequent categories within the topic.
I. History of Clothing A. Production and Distribution A. Regional Dress B. Labor B. Garments C. Fibers, Fabrics, and Textiles C. Styles D. Garment Construction D. Costume E. Processes and Treatments E. Religious and Ceremonial Dress Because section headings are not mutually exclusive, F. Sportswear certain entries in the Encyclopedia are listed in more than G. Occupational Dress one section. H. Protective Clothing II. Society A. Class and Social Identity B. Cultures and Groups I. HISTORY OF CLOTHING C. Gender and Personal Identity A. Regional Dress D. Policy and Government Africa, North: History of Dress E. Psychology of Dress Africa, Sub-Saharan: History of Dress III. History of Accessories America, Central, and Mexico: History of Dress A. Accessories America, North: History of Indigenous Peoples’ Dress B. Jewelry America, South: History of Dress C. Footwear Ancient World: History of Dress D. Headwear Asia, Central: History of Dress IV. Body Modification and Adornment Asia, East: History of Dress A. Body Modification Asia, South: History of Dress B. Cosmetics Asia, Southeastern Islands and the Pacific: History of C. Hair Dress V. History of Fashion Asia, Southeastern Mainland: History of Dress A. Fashion Australian Dress B. Study of Fashion China: History of Dress C. Careers in Fashion Europe and America: History of Dress (400-1900 C.E.) D. Illustration Folk Dress, Eastern Europe E. Photography Folk Dress, Western Europe F. Performance India: Clothing and Adornment G. Art and Literature Inuit and Arctic Dress H. Movements Iran: History of Pre-Islamic Dress I. Icons Japanese Traditional Dress and Adornment J. Writing about Fashion Jewish Dress K. Marketing and Merchandising Korean Dress and Adornment L. Display Latino Style VI. Designers and Design Houses Middle East: History of Islamic Dress VII. Distribution, Materials, and Manufacturing Russia: History of Dress
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Scottish Dress Pajamas Spanish Dress Panties Paper Dresses B. Garments Parka A-Line Dress Penis Sheath Ao Dai Petticoat Aprons Polo Shirt Ball Dress Qipao Bikini Raincoat Blazer Rainwear Blouse Robe Boubou Salwar-Kameez Boxer Shorts Sari Brassiere Sarong Breeches Scarf Burqa Shawls Bustle Shirt Caftan Shirtwaist Chador Shroud Chemise Dress Skirt Coat Slip Cocktail Dress Space Suit Codpiece Sport Shirt Corset Sports Jacket Dashiki Stockings, Women’s Djellaba Suit, Business Doublet Sweater Dress Shirt Sweatshirt Duffle Coat Swimwear Empire Style Tailored Suit Evening Dress Tea Gown G-string and Thong Toga Girdle Trousers Gloves T-Shirt Hawaiian Shirt Tuxedo Hijab Underwear Hosiery, Men’s Veils Jacket Waistcoat Jeans Windbreaker Jilbab Yukata Jockey Shorts Zoot Suit Jumper Dress Kaffiyeh C. Styles Kain-kebaya Aesthetic Dress Kilt Children’s Clothing Kimono Empire Style Leotard Ethnic Style in Fashion Lingerie Extreme Fashions Little Black Dress Fancy Dress Mantua Fetish Fashion Mao Suit Folklore Look Masks Formal Wear, Men’s Miniskirt Futurist Fashion, Italian Nehru Jacket Goths Nightgown Grunge Outerwear Heroin Chic Pagne and Wrapper High-Tech Fashion
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Hip-Hop Fashion Reenactors Hippie Style Skating Dress Historicism and Historical Revival Tennis Costumes Japonisme Theatrical Costume Latino Style Theatrical Makeup Macaroni Dress Veils Maternity Dress Wedding Costume Military Style Wigs Modern Primitives Nautical Style E. Religious and Ceremonial Dress New Look Ceremonial and Festival Costumes Occult Dress Ecclesiastical Dress Orientalism Fancy Dress Prison Dress Islamic Dress, Contemporary Protective Clothing Jewish Dress Psychedelic Fashion Middle East: History of Islamic Dress Punk Mourning Dress Retro Styles Religion and Dress Roma and Gypsy Shroud Space Age Styles Traditional Dress Sportswear Veils Street Style Wedding Costume Teenage Fashions Wigs Travel Clothing Uniforms, Diplomatic F. Sportswear Uniforms, Military Activewear Uniforms, Occupational Bicycle Clothing Uniforms, School Dress Reform Uniforms, Sports Equestrian Costume Vintage Fashion Golf Clothing Traditional Dress Helmet Twentieth-Century Fashion Jockey Shorts Youthquake Fashions Nautical Style Polo Shirt D. Costume Skating Dress Academic Dress Ski Clothing Armor Sneakers Ballet Costume Sport Shirt Bicycle Clothing Sport Shoes Bloomer Costume Sports Jacket Carnival Dress Sportswear Clothing, Costume, and Dress Swimwear Costume Designer Tennis Costumes Costume Jewelry Uniforms, Sports Court Dress Cowboy Clothing G. Dress and Occupation Cross-Dressing Casual Business Dress Dance Costume Dress for Success Dress for Success Dress Reform Equestrian Costume Ecclesiastical Dress Fancy Dress Legal and Judicial Costume Flappers Military Style Halloween Costume Nautical Style Legal and Judicial Costume Prison Dress Masks Protective Clothing Masquerade and Masked Balls Space Suit Prison Dress Striptease
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Suit, Business Seventh Avenue Tailored Suit Social Class and Clothing Travel Clothing Street Style Uniforms, Diplomatic Subcultures Uniforms, Military Tea Gown Uniforms, Occupational Traditional Dress Uniforms, School Trendsetters Uniforms, Sports Trickle-Down Working-Class Dress Uniforms, Diplomatic Uniforms, Military H. Protective Clothing Uniforms, Occupational Outerwear Uniforms, School Parka Uniforms, Sports Protective Clothing Working-Class Dress Rainwear Space Suit B. Cultures and Groups Travel Clothing African American Dress Umbrellas and Parasols Afro Hairstyle Windbreaker Afrocentric Fashion Australian Dress Bohemian Dress Communist Dress II. SOCIETY Debutante Dress A. Class and Social Identity Ethnic Dress Appearance Fetish Fashion Barbie Flappers Best-Dressed Lists Futurist Fashion, Italian Bloomer Costume Goths Colonialism and Imperialism Hippie Style Court Dress Jewish Dress Debutante Dress Latino Style Demimonde Macaroni Dress Domestic Production Occult Dress Dress Codes Prison Dress Dress for Success Punk Dress Reform Roma and Gypsy Ethnic Style in Fashion Royal and Aristocratic Dress Fancy Dress Sapeurs Fascist and Nazi Dress Street Style Fashion and Identity Subcultures Fashion Dolls Working-Class Dress Fashion Plates Youthquake Fashions Fashion Shows Fashion Television C. Gender and Personal Identity Flappers Appearance Footbinding Bloomer Costume Gender, Dress, and Fashion Bodybuilding and Sculpting Hippie Style Body Piercing Macaroni Dress Brassiere Mao Suit Cache-Sexe Mourning Dress Codpiece Politics and Fashion Color in Dress Prison Dress Cowboy Clothing Royal and Aristocratic Dress Cross-Dressing Sapeurs Dandyism Savile Row Dress Reform Secondhand Clothes, Anthropology of Fashion and Homosexuality Secondhand Clothes, History of Fashion and Identity
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Fetish Fashion Buttons Formal Wear, Men’s Canes and Walking Sticks Gender, Dress, and Fashion Crowns and Tiaras Macaroni Dress Cuff Links and Studs Masks Eyeglasses Maternity Dress Fans Nudism Hair Accessories Nudity Handbags and Purses Penis Sheath Hosiery, Men’s Shoes, Men’s Masks Shoes, Women’s Muffs Social Class and Clothing Neckties and Neckwear Suit, Business Outerwear Traditional Dress Ribbon Unisex Clothing Scarf Veils Stockings, Women’s Sunglasses D. Policy and Government Umbrellas and Parasols Colonialism and Imperialism Veils Communist Dress Watches Dress Codes Wigs Fascist and Nazi Dress Globalization B. Jewelry Hippie Style Beads Labeling Laws Body Piercing Labor Unions Bracelets Politics and Fashion Brooches and Pins Prison Dress Costume Jewelry Royal and Aristocratic Dress Crowns and Tiaras Social Class and Clothing Cuff Links and Studs Sumptuary Laws Earrings Uniforms, Diplomatic Jewelry Uniforms, Military Necklaces and Pendants Uniforms, Occupational Rings Uniforms, School Watches
E. Psychology of Dress C. Footwear Barthes, Roland Boots Baudrillard, Jean Footbinding Color in Dress High Heels Dress for Success Inuit and Arctic Footwear Fashion, Historical Studies of Pointe Shoes Fashion, Theories of Sandals Fashion and Identity Shoemaking Fetish Fashion Shoes Flügel, J. C. Shoes, Children’s Gender, Dress, and Fashion Shoes, Men’s Shopping Shoes, Women’s Simmel, Georg Sneakers Social Class and Clothing Sport Shoes Veblen, Thorstein D. Headwear Beret III. HISTORY OF ACCESSORIES Hats, Men’s A. Accessories Hats, Women’s Belts and Buckles Headdress Brooches and Pins Helmet
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Hijab Fashion Models Masks Fashion Museums and Collections Scarf Future of Fashion Turban Gender, Dress, and Fashion Veils Haute Couture Wigs Italian Fashion Japanese Fashion Latin American Fashion London Fashion IV. BODY MODIFICATION AND Paris Fashion ADORNMENT Professional Associations A. Body Modification Psychedelic Fashion Bodybuilding and Sculpting Ready-to-Wear Body Piercing Savile Row Branding Seventh Avenue Extreme Fashions Supermodels Fetish Fashion Trendsetters Footbinding Trickle-Down Implants Vintage Fashion Nail Art Vogue Penis Sheath Women’s Wear Daily Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery Youthquake Fashions Scarification Tattoos Tight-Lacing B. Study of Fashion Baudrillard, Jean Color in Dress B. Cosmetics Economics and Clothing Cosmetics, Non-Western Extreme Fashions Cosmetics, Western Fashion Lipstick Fashion, Attacks on Makeup Artists Fashion, Historical Studies of Nail Art Fashion, Theories of Perfume Fashion Advertising Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery Fashion and Homosexuality Theatrical Makeup Fashion and Identity Fashion Designer C. Hair Fashion Editors Afro Hairstyle Fashion Education Barbers Fashion, Health, and Disease Beards and Mustaches Fashion Illustrators Braiding Fashion Industry Hair Accessories Fashion Journalism Hairdressers Fashion Magazines Hairstyles Fashion Marketing and Merchandising Wigs Fashion Models Fashion Museums and Collections Fashion Online V. HISTORY OF FASHION Fashion Photography A. Fashion Fashion Plates African American Fashion Fashion Shows Belgian Fashion Fashion Television Clothing, Costume, and Dress Fetish Fashion Dress Reform Gender, Dress, and Fashion Extreme Fashions Haute Couture Fads Hemlines Fashion Historicism and Historical Revival Fashion Industry Professional Associations
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Ready-to-Wear Fashion Photography Savile Row Horst, Horst P. Secondhand Clothes, Anthropology of Hoyningen-Heune, George Secondhand Clothes, History of Meisel, Steven Seventh Avenue Newton, Helmut Social Class and Clothing Penn, Irving Supermodels Vogue Traditional Dress Trendsetters F. Performance Trickle-Down Actors and Actresses, Impact on Fashion Twentieth-Century Fashion Celebrities Vintage Fashion Dance and Fashion Vogue Dance Costume Women’s Wear Daily Fashion Icons Film and Fashion C. Careers in Fashion Flappers Costume Designer Hip-Hop Fashion Fashion Advertising Hollywood Style Fashion Designer Madonna Fashion Editors Music and Fashion Fashion Education Pointe Shoes Fashion Illustrators Reenactors Fashion Industry Striptease Fashion Journalism Theatrical Costume Fashion Magazines Theatrical Makeup Fashion Marketing and Merchandising Fashion Models G. Art and Literature Fashion Museums and Collections Art and Fashion Fashion Online Art Nouveau and Art Deco Fashion Photography Caricature and Fashion Fashion Shows Fashion Illustrators Fashion Television Godey’s Lady’s Book Hairdressers Vogue Makeup Artists Wearable Art Milliners Women’s Wear Daily Professional Associations Seamstresses H. Movements Shoemaking Aesthetic Dress Supermodels Art Nouveau and Art Deco Textile Workers Dandyism Dress Reform D. Illustration Fads Barbier, Georges Futurist Fashion, Italian Caricature and Fashion Historicism and Historical Revival Fashion Illustrators Japonisme Fashion Magazines New Look Fashion Plates Sapeurs Godey’s Lady’s Book Trendsetters Iribe, Paul Trickle-Down Vogue Youthquake Fashions
E. Photography I. Icons Avedon, Richard Barbie Beaton, Cecil Best-Dressed Lists Bourdin, Guy Brummell, George (Beau) Dahl-Wolfe, Louise Diana, Princess of Wales Fashion Magazines Fashion Icons Fashion Models Fashion Plates
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First Ladies’ Gowns Fashion Television Godey’s Lady’s Book Film and Fashion Hollywood Style Logos Madonna Ready-to-Wear Supermodels Retailing Trendsetters Savile Row Twiggy Seventh Avenue Vogue Shopping Wilde, Oscar Supermodels Windsor, Duke and Duchess of Trendsetters Women’s Wear Daily Trickle-Down Twiggy J. Writing about Fashion Vogue Balzac, Honoré de Window Displays Barthes, Roland Baudelaire, Charles L. Display Baudrillard, Jean Cunnington, C. Willett and Phillis Benjamin, Walter Fashion Models Best-Dressed Lists Fashion Museums and Collections Clothing, Costume, and Dress Fashion Online Cunnington, C. Willett and Phillis Fashion Photography Demorest, Mme. Fashion Plates Fashion, Historical Studies of Fashion Shows Fashion, Theories of Fashion Television Fashion Editors Mannequins Fashion Journalism Moore, Doris Langley Fashion Magazines Ready-to-Wear Fashion Online Seventh Avenue Fashion Plates Supermodels Flügel, J. C. Twiggy Future of Fashion Vogue Godey’s Lady’s Book Wearable Art Laver, James Window Displays Mallarmé, Stéphane Marx, Karl Moore, Doris Langley VI. DESIGNERS AND DESIGN HOUSES Proust, Marcel Simmel, Georg Adrian Uzanne, Octave Alaïa, Azzedine Veblen, Thorstein Albini, Walter Vogue Amies, Hardy Wilde, Oscar Armani, Giorgio Women’s Wear Daily Balenciaga, Cristóbal Balmain, Pierre K. Marketing and Merchandising Beaton, Cecil Boutique Beene, Geoffrey Brands and Labels Bertin, Rose Department Store Biba Economics and Clothing Blahnik, Manolo Fads Blass, Bill Fashion Advertising Brooks Brothers Fashion Editors Burberry Fashion Magazines Burrows, Stephen Fashion Marketing and Merchandising Callot Sisters Fashion Online Capucci, Roberto Fashion Photography Cardin, Pierre Fashion Plates Cashin, Bonnie Fashion Shows Chalayan, Hussein
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Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) Mori, Hanae Clark, Ossie Moschino, Franco Comme des Garçons Mugler, Thierry Courrèges, André Muir, Jean de la Renta, Oscar Norell, Norman Delaunay, Sonia Paquin, Jeanne Demeulemeester, Ann Patou, Jean Dior, Christian Poiret, Paul Dolce & Gabbana Prada Doucet, Jacques Pucci, Emilio Ellis, Perry Quant, Mary Fath, Jacques Rabanne, Paco Fendi Rhodes, Zandra Ferragamo, Salvatore Rykiel, Sonia Fogarty, Anne Saint Laurent, Yves Fontana Sisters Schiaparelli, Elsa Ford, Tom Seydou, Chris Fortuny, Mariano Smith, Paul Galanos, James Smith, Willi Galliano, John Steele, Lawrence Gaultier, Jean-Paul Sy, Oumou Gernreich, Rudi Toledo, Isabel and Ruben Gigli, Romeo Treacy, Philip Givenchy, Hubert de Trigère, Pauline Grès, Mme. Valentina Gucci Valentino Halston Versace, Gianni and Donatella Hartnell, Norman Viktor & Rolf Hawes, Elizabeth Vionnet, Madeleine Head, Edith von Furstenberg, Diane Hermès Vreeland, Diana Hilfiger, Tommy Vuitton, Louis Hugo Boss Westwood, Vivienne James, Charles Worth, Charles Frederick Kamali, Norma Xuly Bët Karan, Donna Yamamoto, Yohji Klein, Calvin Yeohlee Lacroix, Christian Zoran Lagerfeld, Karl Lang, Helmut Lanvin, Jeanne VII. DISTRIBUTION, MATERIALS, AND Lauren, Ralph MANUFACTURING Leiber, Judith A. Production and Distribution Lesage, François Boutique Levi Strauss & Co. Department Store Liberty & Co. Domestic Production Lucile Economics and Clothing Mackie, Bob Globalization Mainbocher Milliners Margiela, Martin Ready-to-Wear Marimekko Seamstresses Marks & Spencer Secondhand Clothes, Anthropology of McCardell, Claire Secondhand Clothes, History of McFadden, Mary Sewing Machine McQueen, Alexander Shoemaking Missoni Shopping Miyake, Issey Sweatshops
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Tailoring Mohair Textiles and International Trade Muslin Textile Workers Nonwoven Textiles Nylon B. Labor Oilskins Domestic Production Olefin Fibers Garments, International Trade in Paisley Globalization Plaid Labor Unions Polyester Milliners Ramie Seamstresses Rayon Shoemaking Recycled Textiles Sweatshops Ribbon Textile Workers Rubber as Fashion Fabric Working-Class Dress Silk Spangles C. Fibers, Fabrics, and Textiles Striped Cloth Acrylic and Modacrylic Fibers Tapestry Adinkra Tartan Adire Techno-Textiles Agbada Textiles, African Alpaca Textiles, Andean Appliqué Textiles, Byzantine Textiles, Central Asian Angora Textiles, Chinese Animal Prints Textiles, Coptic Bark Cloth Textiles, Japanese Batik Textiles, Middle Eastern Beads Textiles, Prehistoric Calico Textiles, South Asian Cambric, Batiste, and Lawn Textiles, Southeast Asian Islands Camel Hair Textiles, Southeast Asian Mainland Camouflage Cloth Textiles and International Trade Cashmere and Pashmina Textile Workers Chintz Trimmings Corduroy Tweed Cotton Velvet Crepe Vinyl as Fashion Fabric Crinoline Wool Denim Yarns Elastomers Feathers D. Garment Construction Felt Closures, Hook-and-Loop Fibers Cutting Flannel Fasteners Fur Hemlines Gabardine Mannequins Handwoven Textiles Needles Hemp Patterns and Patternmaking Homespun Pins Ikat Pockets Jersey Safety Pins Kanga Sewing Machine Kente Skirt Supports Lace Tailored Suit Leather and Suede Tailoring Linen Trimmings Microfibers Zipper
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E. Processes and Treatments Loom Batik Napping Braiding Performance Finishes Crochet Quilting Distressing Recycled Textiles Dry Cleaning Spinning Dyeing Spinning Machinery Dyeing, Resist Tailoring Dyes, Chemical and Synthetic Tanning of Leather Dyes, Natural Tie-Dyeing Embroidery Weave, Double Flocking Weave, Jacquard Fulling Weave, Pile Glazing Weave, Plain Homespun Weave, Satin Ikat Weave, Slack Tension Indigo Weave, Twill Knitting Weave Types Knitting Machinery Weaving Knotting Weaving, Machinery Laundry Worsted
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DIRECTORY OF CONTRIBUTORS
Isabella A. Abbott Linda B. Arthur Ruth Barnes Bark Cloth Washington State University Researcher, Department of Eastern Art, Asia, Southeastern Islands and Ashmolean Museum, Oxford Thomas S. Abler the Pacific: History of Dress Ikat Department of Anthropology, Hawaiian Shirt University of Waterloo Religion and Dress Claire Barratt Uniforms, Military Central Saint Martins, University of Juliet Ash the Arts, London Teri Agins Tutor in Fashion/Textiles Critical & Shroud Wall Street Journal Historical Studies, Royal College of Art, Garments, International Trade in London, U.K. Djurdja Bartlett Zoran Prison Dress Independent scholar Communist Dress Heather Marie Akou Sonia Ashmore University of Minnesota, Twin Cities Research fellow, London College of Beatrix Bastl Islamic Dress, Contemporary Royal and Aristocratic Dress Jilbab Fashion, University of the Arts, London Weave, Jacquard Liberty & Co. Reed Benhamou Weave, Plain Department of Apparel Merchandising Weave, Satin Jane Audas and Interior Design, Indiana Weave, Twill Royal College of Art, London University Mannequins Sumptuary Laws Ann Ilan Alter Window Displays Masquerade and Masked Balls Lenore Benson Patricia L. Baker Fashion Editors Fiona Anderson Iran, History of Pre-Islamic Professional Associations National Museums of Scotland Dress Plaid Middle East: History of Islamic Parminder Bhachu Scottish Dress Dress Shawls Clark University, Massachusetts Salwar-Kameez Shoes, Men’s Mukulika Banerjee Tartan University College, London, U.K. Tweed Vandana Bhandari Sari Associate Professor, Fashion and Joanne Arbuckle Textiles Department, National Institute E. J. W. Barber Fashion Institute of Technology of Fashion Technology Closures, Hook-and-Loop Professor of Archeology and Linguistics, Turban Occidental College, Los Angeles Rebecca Arnold Textiles, Prehistoric Martin Bide Senior lecturer in fashion and theory, Department of Textiles, Fashion Central Saint Martins College of Art Ruth Barcan Merchandising and Design, University and Design, London Department of Gender Studies, of Rhode Island Heroin Chic University of Sydney, Australia Acrylic and Modacrylic Fibers Vionnet, Madeleine Nudism Elastomers Westwood, Vivienne Nudity Olefin Fibers
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Thomas A. Bilstad Ann W. Braaten Gillion Carrara Professional copy editor, freelance North Dakota State University Director of the Fashion Resource Center author Alpaca Ferragamo, Salvatore Occult Dress Angora Fortuny, Mariano Camel Hair Gucci Mohair Anne Bissonnette Italian Fashion Wool Curator, Kent State University Missoni Worsted Museum Moschino, Franco Tea Gown Steele, Lawrence Archie Brennan Versace, Gianni and Donatella Tapestry Sandy Black Michael Carter Reader in Knitwear and Fashion, Christopher Breward Department of Art History and London College of Fashion, University London College of Fashion Theory, University of Sydney of the Arts, London London Fashion Sweater Savile Row Flügel, J. C. Wilde, Oscar Laver, James Veblen, Thorstein Whitney Blausen Claudia Brown Independent researcher Arizona State University Frank Cartledge Costume Designer Textiles, Chinese Senior Lecturer, Chelsea College of Art, Spangles University of the Arts, London Theatrical Costume Stella Bruzzi Punk Professor of Film Studies at Royal Heidi Boehlke Holloway, University of London Anna Beatriz Chadour-Sampson Batik Film and Fashion Freelance jewelry historian and Kain-kebaya scholarly author, England, U.K. Sarong Michele Wesen Bryant Jewelry Fashion Institute of Technology Rings Rubber as Fashion Fabric Andrew Bolton Associate Curator, The Costume Gary Chaison Vern L. Bullough Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Cross-Dressing Professor of Industrial Relations, Clark Art Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery University, Worcester, Massachusetts Kilt Sweatshops Windsor, Duke and Duchess of Barbara Burman University of Southampton, U.K. Angel Chang Laird Borrelli Domestic Production Design Assistant: Fabric Development Senior Fashion Editor, Style.com Pockets and Creative Direction, The Donna Fashion Illustrators Seamstresses Karan Company Fashion Online Working-Class Dress Delaunay, Sonia Trendsetters Sport Shoes Vogue Jeffrey A. Butterworth Viktor & Rolf Shoes, Children’s Marie Botkin Beth Dincuff Charleston Elizabeth K. Bye Apparel Marketing and Design, Family Klein, Calvin University of Minnesota and Consumer Science, California State High-Tech Fashion University, Sacramento Xavier Chaumette Nautical Style Corduroy Gaultier, Jean-Paul Flannel Colleen R. Callahan Tailored Suit Jersey Curator Emeritus, The Valentine Napping Richmond History Center Joyce Cheney Bloomer Costume Focus Communications/American G. Bruce Boyer Children’s Clothing Association of Museums/National Fashion Writer and Editor Godey’s Lady’s Book Association of Museum Exhibition Brooks Brothers Outerwear Aprons
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Beverly Chico Maxine Leeds Craig Marilee DesLauriers Regis University, School for Professional California State University, The Goldstein Museum of Design, Studies Hayward University of Minnesota Beret Afro Hairstyle Embroidery Chador Marimekko Hats, Women’s Patricia Cox Crews Headdress Cather Professor of Textiles and Jasleen Dhamija Helmet Director, International Quilt Study Asia, Central: History of Center, University of Nebraska, Lincoln Dress Kimberley Chrisman-Campbell Quilting Asia, South: History of Dress Huntington Library, San Marino, Paisley California Oriole Cullen Textiles, Central Asian Bertin, Rose Museum of London Aesthetic Dress Kitty G. Dickerson Department of Textile and Apparel Alice Cicolini Fath, Jacques Management, University of Missouri, Curator and Project Manager, Design, Columbia British Council Elyssa Schram Da Cruz Textiles and International Dandyism Research Associate, The Costume Trade Historicism and Historical Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Revival Art Cocktail Dress Carol A. Dickson Stockings, Women’s Apparel Product Design and Vintage Fashion M. Catherine Daly Merchandising, University of Hawaii- Veils Manoa Shaun Cole Bark Cloth Victoria & Albert Museum Denim Mary Lynn Damhorst Jockey Shorts Hemp Fashion and Homosexuality Department of Textiles and Clothing, Iowa State University Jean L. Druesedow Casual Business Dress Elizabeth Ann Coleman Kent State University Museum Museum of Fine Arts Ready-to-Wear Alison Matthews David Doucet, Jacques Trigère, Pauline Centre for the History of Textiles and Fashion Dolls Dress, University of Southampton James, Charles Robin Dutt Balzac, Honoré de Worth, Charles Frederick Formal Wear, Men’s Brummell, George (Beau) Equestrian Costume Bronwen Edwards Billie J. Collier Tailoring University of Tennessee Department Store Shopping Microfibers Kaat Debo Nonwoven Textiles Curator Contemporary Fashion Edwina Ehrman Performance Finishes MoMu Curator of Dress and Decorative Art, Yarns Belgian Fashion Museum of London Demeulemeester, Ann Amies, Hardy John R. Collier Margiela, Martin Hartnell, Norman University of Tennessee Spinning Machinery Amy de la Haye Joanne B. Eicher London College of Fashion University of Minnesota Caroline Cox Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco) Africa, Sub-Saharan: History of Vidal Sassoon Advanced Academy Muir, Jean Dress Barbers Patou, Jean Clothing, Costume, and Dress Beards and Mustaches Quant, Mary Ethnic Dress G-string and Thong Lingerie Marilyn Revell DeLong Fadwa El Guindi Panties University of Minnesota, Saint Paul University of Southern California Petticoat Color in Dress Djellaba Underwear Fashion, Theories of Hijab Wigs Korean Dress and Adornment Kaffiyeh
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Julia Emberley Aurora Fiorentini Liz Gessner Professor in English, University of Armani, Giorgio Freelance fashion writer, formerly Western Ontario Valentino editor of W Magazine and Women’s Fur Wear Daily Lynda Fitzwater Blahnik, Manolo Joy Spanabel Emery M.A. in Fashion Theory from London Karan, Donna Theatre University of Rhode Island College of Fashion Little Black Dress Patterns and Patternmaking Secondhand Clothes, History of Key Sook Geum Joanne Entwistle Marnie Fogg Hong-IK University, Seoul, South Korea Lecturer, University of Essex M.A. Korean Dress and Adornment Dress for Success De la Renta, Oscar Fashion, Attacks on McFadden, Mary Donna Ghelerter Rhodes, Zandra Caroline Evans Costume and Textile historian, NYC Rykiel, Sonia Reader in Fashion Studies, Central Future of Fashion Smith, Paul Saint Martins College of Art and Norell, Norman Design, The University of the Arts, Smith, Willi Scarf London Suit, Business Fashion Models Treacy, Philip Pamela Church Gibson McQueen, Alexander von Furstenberg, Diane Senior Lecturer, London College of Schiaparelli, Elsa Fashion Katherine Forde Actors and Actresses, Impact on Sandra Lee Evenson Nail Art Fashion University of Idaho Celebrities Cache-Sexe Helen Bradley Foster Fashion Icons Codpiece University of Minnesota Hollywood Style Penis Sheath African American Dress Proust, Marcel Twiggy William Ewing Ed Franquemont Avedon, Richard Textiles, Andean Horst, Horst P. Madeleine Ginsberg Hoyningen-Huene, George Fashion Magazines Robert Friedel Fashion Plates Jane Farrell-Beck University of Maryland Textiles and Clothing Program, Iowa Zipper Jessica Glasscock State University Author of Striptease: From Gaslight Girdle Phyllis Galembo to Spotlight Professor, Fine Arts Department, Striptease Brigitte Felderer University at Albany, State University Gernreich, Rudi of New York Halloween Costume Pamela Golbin Gretchen Fenston Curator, The Musée de la Mode et du Textiles, Paris Registrar, Condé Nast Archive Lorraine Gamman Lacroix, Christian Klein, Calvin Reader Design Context, School of Saint Laurent, Yves Graphic and Industrial Design, Central Mary Ann C. Ferro St. Martins College of Art and Design Associate Professor, Fashion Institute of Laundry Ch. Didier Gondola Technology Indiana University, Indianapolis Vinyl as Fashion Fabric Philippe Garner Sapeurs Michelle Tolini Finamore Newton, Helmut Rhode Island School of Design Tom Greatrex Callot Sisters Colleen Gau London, U.K. Iribe, Paul Independent historian Blazer Fashion Shows Brassiere Boxer Shorts Vreeland, Diana Corset Coat
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Tom Greatrex (continued) Nancy Hall-Duncan Thomas Hecht Dress Shirt Curator, Bruce Museum of Arts and Central School of Speech and London Duffle Coat Science, Greenwich, Conn. College of Fashion Jacket Beaton, Cecil Ballet Costume Oilskins Bourdin, Guy Dance and Fashion Parka Dahl-Wolfe, Louise Dance Costume Polo Shirt Fashion Photography Hugo Boss Raincoat Meisel, Steven Lang, Helmut Rainwear Pointe Shoes Shirt Karen Tranberg Hansen Sport Shirt Department of Anthropology, Joyce Heckman Sports Jacket Northwestern University Fads Waistcoat Colonialism and Imperialism Windbreaker Secondhand Clothes, Jane E. Hegland Anthropology of Department Head and Associate Annette Green Professor, Apparel Merchandising and President Emeritus, The Fragrance Marin F. Hanson Interior Design, South Dakota State Foundation. Shipman School of Assistant curator, International Quilt University Journalism, NYU, The New School Study Center, University of Nebraska, Ball Dress Perfume Lincoln Evening Dress Quilting Fashion Education Rebecca L. Green Barbara Perso Heinemann Associate Professor and Chair of Art Leslie Harris University of Minnesota History, Bowling Green State Independent scholar, London, U.K. Jumper Dress University Canes and Walking Sticks Kanga Legal and Judicial Costume Watches Paula Heinonen IGS (CCCRW), University of Oxford Susan W. Greene Cosmetics, Non-Western American Costume Studies, Alfred Avril Hart Station, NY Assistant Curator of the Department of Janet Hethorn Calico Textiles and Dress, Victoria & Albert University of Delaware Cambric, Batiste, and Lawn Museum Skating Dress Crepe Fans Indigo Muslin H. Kristina Haugland Robert Hillestad Philadelphia Museum of Art University of Nebraska, Lincoln Blouse Appearance Michael Gross Bustle Contributing editor of Travel and Crinoline Bette Hochberg Leisure, contributing writer for Radar Leotard Spinning Lauren, Ralph Nightgown Supermodels Skirt Paul Hodkinson Skirt Supports University of Surrey, England Irene Guenther Slip Goths Professor, Department of History, Houston Community College-Northwest Jana M. Hawley Susie Hopkins Fascist and Nazi Dress Textile and Apparel Management, London College of Fashion University of Missouri Crowns and Tiaras Recycled Textiles Elisabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch Hats, Men’s Lecturer at the Niederrhein University Milliners of Applied Sciences, Moenchengladbach, Michaele Haynes Germany Curator of History and Textiles, Witte Catherine Horwood Uniforms, Diplomatic Museum of San Antonio Royal Holloway, University of London Uniforms, Occupational Debutante Dress Tennis Costumes
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Nancy Arthur Hoskins Susan B. Kaiser Anna König Coptic researcher, former weaving University of California at Davis Associate Lecturer, London College of instructor, and author of The Coptic Fads Fashion Tapestry Albums and the Fashion and Identity Neckties and Neckwear Archaeologist of Antinoé Trickle-Down Umbrellas and Parasols Textiles, Coptic Lydia Kamitsis Désirée Koslin Stephanie Day Iverson Fashion historian; independent fashion Fashion Institute of Technology University of California, Los Angeles curator Textiles, Byzantine Cashin, Bonnie Lesage, François Velvet Rabanne, Paco Anthea Jarvis Colleen E. Kriger Curator, Gallery of Costume, Platt Walter Karcheski University of North Carolina at Hall, Manchester, U.K. Chief curator of arms and armor, Greensboro Fancy Dress Frazier Historical Arms Museum, Robe Louisville, Kentucky Armor Charlotte Jirousek Youn Kyung-Kim Cornell University Recycled Textiles Textiles, Middle Eastern Denise Kastrinakis Fads Karen L. LaBat Paul Jobling University of Minnesota The School of Historical and Critical Yuniya Kawamura Asia, Southeastern Mainland: Studies, University of Brighton, U.K. State University of New York, Fashion History of Dress Fashion Advertising Institute of Technology Bicycle Clothing Japanese Fashion Fasteners Anna Johnson Miyake, Issey High-Tech Fashion Handbags and Purses Mori, Hanae
Kim K. P. Johnson Alan Kennedy John Lappe University of Minnesota Independent researcher, contributing President, Museum Quality Speciality Politics and Fashion editor, Hali Drycleaning Services Japanese Traditional Dress and Dry Cleaning Lucy Johnston Adornment Curator of nineteenth century fashion Kimono Babatunde Lawal and wedding dress, Victoria & Albert Yukata Department of Art History, Virginia Museum Commonwealth University Ski Clothing Shirley Kennedy Agbada Fashion Art Bank Inc., founding Carnival Dress Alan Cannon Jones partner F.FCDE (Fellow, Federation of Pucci, Emilio Seung-Eun Lee Clothing Designers and Executives) University of Minnesota Cutting Claudia Kidwell Retailing First Ladies’ Gowns Esther Juhasz Leedom Lefferts Hebrew University, Israel Raisa Kirsanova Drew University, Madison, New Jersey Jewish Dress Russia: History of Dress Textiles, Southeast Asian Mainland Sara J. Kadolph Rosanne Klass Textiles and Clothing, Department of Director, Afghanistan Information Ulrich Lehmann Apparel, Educational Studies, and Center, Freedom House, New York, Royal College of Art, Victoria & Albert Hospitality Management, Iowa State 1980–1991 Museum University Burqa Art and Fashion Chintz Benjamin, Walter Dyeing Dorothy Ko Futurist Fashion, Italian Dyes, Natural Barnard College, Columbia University Mallarmé, Stéphane Gabardine Footbinding Simmel, Georg
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Ann Marie Leshkowich Karmen MacKendrick Elizabeth McLafferty Assistant Professor of Anthropology, Department of Philosophy, Le Moyne Lipstick College of the Holy Cross College Makeup Artists Ao Dai Body Piercing Theatrical Makeup
Esther Leslie Phyllis Magidson Peter McNeil Lecturer, School of English and Curator of Costumes and Textiles, University of New South Wales, Sydney, Humanities, Birkbeck, University of Museum of the City of New York School of Art History and Theory London, U.K. Mainbocher Caricature and Fashion Marx, Karl Macaroni Dress Michele Majer Van Dyk Lewis Assistant Professor, Bard Graduate Brian J. McVeigh Assistant Professor, Textiles and Center University of Arizona Apparel, Cornell University Barbier, Georges Dress Codes Afrocentric Fashion Boutique Uniforms, School Hip-Hop Fashion Demimonde Music and Fashion Moore, Doris Langley Patricia Mears Grès, Mme. Japonisme Joel Lobenthal John S. Major Orientalism Independent Writer China Institute Yamamoto, Yohji Hippie Style Asia, East: History of Dress Psychedelic Fashion Balmain, Pierre Space Age Styles Blass, Bill Beatrice Medicine America, North: History of Youthquake Fashions Camouflage Cloth Indigenous Peoples’ Dress China, History of Dress Linda Loppa Givenchy, Hubert de Katalin Medvedev Director and Chief Curator MoMu Lagerfeld, Karl Social Class and Clothing Belgian Fashion Mugler, Thierry Demeulemeester, Ann Paris Fashion Lynn A. Meisch Margiela, Martin Prada Striped Cloth Associate Professor of Anthropology, Textiles, Japanese Saint Mary’s College of California Ingrid Loschek America, South: History of Yeohlee Professor of history and theory of Dress fashion, University of Applied Sciences Joanna Marschner in Pforzheim, Germany Dean L. Merceron Kensington Palace, State Apartments Twentieth-Century Fashion M.A. from the Fashion Institute of and Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection Technology, Museum Studies: Costume Court Dress Elizabeth D. Lowe and Textiles City University of New York, Queens Lanvin, Jeanne College Margaret Maynard Feathers The University of Queensland, Australia Susan O. Michelman Labeling Laws Australian Dress University of Kentucky Polyester Gender, Dress, and Fashion Ramie Joanne McCallum Bachelor of Design Studies Honours Caroline Rennolds Milbank Marylou Luther Class 1, The University of Queensland Ellis, Perry Editor-in-chief of the International Academic Dress Hermès Fashion Syndicate Cuff Links and Studs Poiret, Paul Fashion Journalism Retro Styles Aliecia R. McClain Daniel Miller Distressing Sari Hazel Lutz Independent scholar of textiles, dress Catherine McDermott Lesley Ellis Miller and South Asia Art, Design, and Music, Kingston University of Southampton, U.K. India: Clothing and Adornment University Balenciaga, Cristóbal Nehru Jacket Diana, Princess of Wales Spanish Dress
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Kimberly A. Miller-Spillman Janet Ozzard Lindsey Philpott Gender, Dress, and Fashion Women’s Wear Daily President, Pacific Americas Branch of the International Guild of Knot Tyers Josephine Moreno Knotting Eduardo Obregon Pagán University of California, Berkeley Arizona State University West Latino Style Zoot Suit John Picton School of Oriental and African Studies, David Muggleton University of London University College, Chichester, U.K. Alexandra Palmer Textiles, African Subcultures Nora Vaughan Fashion Costume Curator, Textile section, Royal Ontario Uraiwan Pitimaneeyakul Robert Muir Museum, Toronto, Canada King Mongkut’s Institute of Technology Penn, Irving Haute Couture Asia, Southeastern Mainland: History of Dress Hudita Mustafa Jennifer Park Department of Anthropology, Emory Fashion Institute of Technology, Ted Polhemus University Museum Independent scholar, teacher and Sy, Oumou Courrèges, André lecturer Sweatshirt Street Style Nan H. Mutnick Unisex Clothing Chair, Department of Human Ecology, Marymount College of Fordham Shannon Bell Price University Pamela A. Parmal The Costume Institute, The Appliqué Department of Textile and Fashion Metropolitan Museum of Art Arts, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Grunge Hemlines Michelle Nordtorp-Madson Lace University of St. Thomas, St. Paul, Ribbon Eric Pujalet-Plaà Minn. Musée de la mode et du textile, Union Wedding Costume centrale des arts décoratifs, Palais du Christopher M. Pastore Louvre Jill Oakes Philadelphia University Dior, Christian Department of Environmental Studies Techno-textiles New Look and Geography, Faculty of Environment. University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Kathleen Paton Bradley Quinn Canada Freelance writer and editor Independent scholar and freelance Inuit and Arctic Dress Best-Dressed Lists curator Inuit and Arctic Footwear Paper Dresses Activewear Trimmings Bodybuilding and Sculpting Alden O’Brien Chalayan, Hussein D.A.R. Museum Empire Style Jane M. Pavitt Maternity Dress University of Brighton, Victoria & Leslie W. Rabine Travel Clothing Albert Museum University of California, Davis Brands and Labels Boubou Sean O’Mara Logos Globalization Laundry Pagne and Wrapper Kathy Peiss Alistair O’Neill University of Pennsylvania Erica Rand London College of Fashion Cosmetics, Western Department of Art and Visual Culture, Burberry Bates College Ford, Tom Barbie Lucile Nicole Pellegrin Barthes, Roland Tuxedo Jan Glier Reeder Vuitton, Louis Consultant, The Costume Institute, Simioan Petrovan Metropolitan Museum of Art Bill Osgerby University of Tennessee Appraisers Association of America Teenage Fashion Spinning Machinery Paquin, Jeanne
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Simona Segre Reinach Clare Sauro Lise Skov IULM University, Milan, Italy Curatorial Assistant, The Museum at Post-doctoral research fellow, Department Albini, Walter the Fashion Institute of Technology of Sociology, Copenhagen University Capucci, Roberto Boots Ethnic Style in Fashion Dolce & Gabbana Flappers Fendi Head, Edith Orpa Slapak Fontana Sisters Jeans Israel Museum, Jerusalem Gigli, Romeo Pajamas Jewish Dress Mackie, Bob Elisha P. Renne Fred T. Smith University of Michigan, Ann Arbor Margot Blum Schevill Kent State University Ecclesiastical Dress Curator, San Francisco Airport Museums Ceremonial and Festival America, Central, and Mexico: Costumes History of Dress Victoria Z. Rivers Masks Design Program, University of Mark Schultz California–Davis Jan Rawdon Smith Curatorial specialist, Goldstein Museum Textiles, South Asian The Braid Society of Design, University of Minnesota Braiding Belts and Buckles Janet Rizvi Historian, freelance researcher, and Susan L. Sokolowski Lidia D. Sciama writer specializing in the Western Nike, Inc. Beaverton, Oregon Senior Associate of Queen Elizabeth Himalaya, especially Kashmir and Sneakers House, Oxford, U.K. Ladakh Uniforms, Sports Cashmere and Pashmina Beads Paisley Christopher Spring Karen Searle Curator, Ethography Department Handwoven Textiles Regina A. Root British Museum College of William and Mary Africa, North: History of Dress Dennita Sewell Latin American Fashion Animal Prints Jo Ann C. Stabb Burrows, Stephen Doran H. Ross Mantua University of California–Davis Adinkra T-Shirt Tie-Dyeing Kente Julia Sharp Kristina Stankovski Fred Rottman Centenary College, Hackettstown, N.J.; Dress Reform Executive VP of Picchi Mills (Italian Queens College, N.Y. Gloves textile company) Felt Halston Valerie Steele Rebecca Shawcross Fashion Institute of Technology Victoria L. Rovine Assistant Shoe Resources Officer, Baudelaire, Charles University of Iowa Museum of Art, Northampton Museum and Art Corset Curator of the Arts of Africa, Oceania, Gallery, U.K. Fashion and the Americas High Heels Fashion Museums and Bogolan Collections Seydou, Chris Lindsay Shen Fetish Fashion Xuly Bët Director, Goldstein Museum of Design, Italian Fashion University of Minnesota Leiber, Judith Carol J. Salusso Crochet Paris Fashion International Textiles and Apparel Embroidery Tight-Lacing Association; Washington State Knitting Toledo, Isabel and Ruben University Uzanne, Octave Cotton Jody Shields Linen Costume Jewelry Francesca Sterlacci Nylon Fashion Institute of Technology Rayon Margot Siegel Fashion Designer Silk Seventh Avenue Leather and Suede
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Elaine Stone Phyllis Tortora Patricia Campbell Warner Professor Emeritus, Fashion Institute of Author of Understanding Textiles, University of Massachusetts, Amherst Technology The Fairchild Encyclopedia of Golf Clothing Fashion Marketing and Fashion Accessories, and The Shirtwaist Merchandising Fairchild’s Dictionary of Textiles Sportswear Ancient World: History of Mitchell D. Strauss Dress Susan M. Watkins Europe and America, History of University of Northern Iowa Professor Emeritus, Cornell University Dress (400-1900 C.E.) Reenactors Fashion, Health, and Disease Fibers Protective Clothing Toga Pauline Sullivan Space Suit Recycled Textiles Jane Trapnell Judith Watt Adrian Barbara Sumberg Clark, Ossie Curator of Textiles and Costume, Muffs Museum of International Fold Art, Julianne Trautmann Santa Fe, N.M. Bracelets Melinda Watt Traditional Dress Hair Accessories Metropolitan Museum of Art Anne Hartley Sutherland Beene, Geoffrey Georgia State University Efrat Tseëlon Buttons Roma and Gypsy University College, Dublin Extreme Fashions Baudrillard, Jean Hawes, Elizabeth Lou Taylor Weaving Machinery Professor of dress and textile history, Marketa Uhlirova University of Brighton Associate Lecturer and Research Tiffany Webber-Hanchett Art Nouveau and Art Deco Assistant at Central Saint Martins Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Cunnington, C. Willett and College of Art and Design Bikini Phillis Galliano, John Fashion Television Fashion, Historical Studies of Fogarty, Anne Mourning Dress Laurel Thatcher Ulrich Hilfiger, Tommy Homespun Madonna Edward Tenner Princeton University Jonathan Walford Linda M. Welters Pins Artistic director of Kirkshaw Productions Professor, Textiles, Fashion Needles Sandals Merchandising and Design, University Safety Pins of Rhode Island Sewing Machine Shoemaking Shoes Folk Dress, Eastern Europe Shoes, Women’s Folk Dress, Western Europe Howard Thomas Folklore Look Auburn University Knitting Machinery Myra Walker Weave, Double University of North Texas Lauren D. Whitley Weave, Pile Cardin, Pierre Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Weave, Slack Tension Miniskirt Demorest, Mme. Galanos, James Kamali, Norma Stefano Tonchi Susan Ward Levi Strauss & Co. Military Style Research Fellow, Department of Textile Tanning of Leather and Fashion Arts, Museum of Fine Wearable Art Susan J. Torntore Arts, Boston Iowa State University, Ames, Iowa A-Line Dress Breeches Chemise Dress Clare Wilcox Brooches and Pins Earrings Senior Curator, modern fashion, Doublet Eyeglasses Victoria & Albert Museum, London Hosiery, Men’s Sunglasses Alaïa, Azzadine Necklaces and Pendants Swimwear Comme des Garçons
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Gloria M. Williams Verity Wilson Gundula Wolter University of Minnesota Asian Department, Victoria & Albert Trousers Labor Unions Museum, London, U.K. Textile Workers Qipao Rachel Worth Mao Suit Marks & Spencer Robyne Williams North Dakota State University Geitel Winakor Ann Wright-Parsons Dyeing, Resist Mary B. Welch Distinguished Professor Director, Anthropology Museum Dyes, Chemical and Synthetic in Family and Consumer Sciences, Iowa Textiles, Southeast Asian Flocking State University Islands Fulling Economics and Clothing Glazing Kohle Yohannan Theresa M. Winge McCardell, Claire University of Minnesota Elizabeth Wilson Valentina Branding Professor Emeritus, London Implants Metropolitan University Modern Primitives Steve Zdatny Biba Occult Dress Associate Professor of History, West Bohemian Dress Scarification Virginia University Tattoos Hairdressers Eric Wilson Hairstyles Women’s Wear Daily Norma H. Wolff Fashion Industry Department of Anthropology, Iowa Bhakti Ziek State University Cerrillos, N.M. Laurel E. Wilson Adire Loom University of Missouri-Columbia Caftan Weave Types Cowboy Clothing Dashiki Weaving
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