Keys TravelerThe Magazine

Connect & Protect Please Release Me Sustainable Stone Crab fla-keys.com New Keys Resorts Frazier Nivens

Cover photo of Michelle McCann, left, ROB O’NEAL and Edna Kilpatrick, on paddleboards 4 in the Lower Keys by Rob O’Neal Keys Traveler The Magazine Contents Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor 4 Connect & Protect … The Keys Carol Shaughnessy 6 Bird Centers Rescue and Shelter Winged Wildlife Copy Editor Buck Banks LGBTQ Adventures Spotlight Marine Ecosystems in Keys Senior Writer 7 Keys Restoration Helps World’s Reefs Laura Myers 8 ‘Please Release Me’ Staff Writers Julie Botteri 10 Rachel Bowman is the Lionfish Queen Greg Tromba 11 Vandenberg 10 Years Later Production Assistant Ashley Serrate 12 Blue Star Diving, Fishing Programs Help Sustain Keys Coral Ecosystem “Keys Traveler” Wildlife Refuges’ Nature Center Serves is published by the Lower Keys Visitors Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing 13 All-New and Redesigned Resorts Greet Keys Visitors agency for the & . 14 Stone Crab Claws ... Succulent and Sustainable Making Family Memories in the Keys’ Natural World Director of Marketing Stacey Mitchell 15 Local Artists Embrace Keys Environment Director of Sales Back Traveling Tips to the Florida Keys Jim De Keyrel

Florida Keys & Key West Ron Modra Visitor Information fla-keys.com fla-keys.co.uk fla-keys.de fla-keys.it fla-keys.ie fla-keys.fr fla-keys.nl fla-keys.be fla-keys.cn Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada 1-800-FLA-KEYS For the free monthly 8 “Keys Traveler” electronic newsletter, subscribe at www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler 13 ©2018-19 Monroe County Tourist @thefloridakeys Development Council Printed in the U.S.A. By Print Farm facebook.com/floridakeysandkeywest

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keysvoices.com @thefloridakeys Higgs Beach in Key West by Rob O’Neal Bungalows Frazier Nivens has become a way of life for saltwa- ter anglers. Catch-and-release fishing, fol- 10 ‘Keymandments’ lowed by size and bag limits and bans on gill nets and fish traps in for the Florida Keys Florida state waters have enabled fish stocks to stabilize and grow. As a result, pelagic (migratory ocean fish), flats and species are plentiful throughout the Keys, and Lighthearted but educational guidelines for residents and visitors, world records attest to healthy and stewards of the Florida Keys’ natural resources, to live and play by. productive fisheries. Backcountry lant a coral. Or adopt one of the eave digital footprints. Share game fish such as bonefish, tar- cute little things, but don’t touch photos with friends and fans. pon, permit, snook and redfish are P L them on the reef. atch dinner and release all fish released on a regular basis. upport the wildlife. Volunteer you know you can’t eat. Like the creation of wildlife pre- C food, funds or time to a local wild se a mooring buoy at dive sites. serves and sanctuaries, the promo- S bird center. USave your back and leave the tion of envi- ake out the trash. Especially if anchor aboard. ronmentally it’s floating in the water. onserve. Don’t consume. Reduce, responsible T SM apture a lionfish. Any time and reuse and recycle — even on Diver Lad Akins connects with marine life in the Florida & C angling is a size — we can show you how. vacation. Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo. C crucial ele- ike it, bike it or hoof it. It’s low et off the beaten path. Hike, ment in the Keys’ longstanding com- Hon eco-impact and high on Gbike, walk or kayak along trails mitment to conserving and protect- fresh tropical air. throughout the Keys. Connect & Protect By Julie Botteri ing the region’s natural resources. isitors from around the world are drawn to the Florida Keys’ priceless natural beauty — the ...The Florida Keys Vblue-green hues of the water, the surrounding islands and flats that are prime territory for managemement of the region’s special ecological, fishing, wildlife viewing, diving and snorkeling. historical, recreational and esthetic resources. Recreational and educational experiences create Within its boundaries lie historic shipwrecks and oth- meaningful and memorable connections to this natural er archeological treasures, extensive seagrass beds, realm: observing protected species and thou- mangrove-fringed islands and more than 6,000 species sands of wading and migratory birds in their natural of marine life, providing an unsurpassed experience for habitat at wildlife preserves, discovering state and visitors from all over the world to view the extraordi- national parks, encountering dolphins and sea turtles, nary reef ecosystem and explore their connections to swimming, boating, fishing, diving, snorkeling, kayak- the ocean. ing and paddle-surfing in the backcountry. The Keys also are home to the world’s first state- Travelers leave with a greater appreciation of their licensed veterinary sea turtle hospital. For over 30 individual impact on the earth, the ocean, the people years, the Marathon-based facility has been rescuing, and all living things that compose the 125-mile island rehabilitating and returning sea turtles to the wild. chain’s unique ecosystems and environment. Education is a priority at the Turtle Hospital. Visitors Mindful and dedicated travelers return to the Florida are introduced to the hospital’s curative programs for Keys with a passion to protect, preserve and even loggerhead, green, hawksbill and Kemp’s ridley turtles, improve the quality of both human and animal life for as well as the permanent resident sea turtles whose future generations. conditions prohibit their return to the open ocean. The Florida Keys have advocated the responsible The facility has three “turtle ambulances” for patient use and preservation of their abundant terrestrial and transport and features a surgical suite, examination marine environments through the creation of wildlife room, commons area and classroom. When possible, preserves, America’s first undersea park and the visitors are encouraged to attend sea turtle releases FRAZIER NIVENS Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. open to the public, emphasizing education, awareness Federally established in 1990, the sanctuary protects and the importance of humans helping to preserve the 2,900 square nautical miles surrounding the United endangered reptiles. States’ only living coral barrier reef, encompassing The Keys’ commitment to conserving and protecting vast stretches of , the and the region’s natural resources also extends to its focus Visitors to the Turtle Hospital watch as Percy, a green sea turtle, receives specialized treatment. the Atlantic Ocean. The sanctuary enables on environmentally responsible fishing, an ethic that Bob Care

4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 5 Bob Care LGBTQ Adventures Spotlight Marine Keys Coral Restoration Helps World’s Reefs ccording to experts, Carrying staghorn coral clippings, volunteers with the Coral Ecosystem in Keys coral reefs make up Restoration Foundation swim to a planting site on a in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo. he Florida Keys are home to Aless than 1 percent the only living coral barrier of the world’s oceans. This Treef in the continental United includes the continental States, with spectacular reefs just a United States’ only living short boat ride from shore — often contiguous coral barrier in water only 10 to 15 feet deep. reef, which parallels the Key West’s Blu Q Sailing Adven- Florida Keys. tures offers intriguing watersports Yet despite their small activities for LGBTQ visitors and size and limited sea floor friends. The company was founded coverage, more than 4,000 22 years ago by Captain Steve species of fish and as much Talbott, who left his Texas home as 40 percent of the marine aboard his sailboat Brigadoon to life worldwide depend on follow his passion. coral reefs at some point in “That passion, sailing, literally their life cycle — whether brought me to the shores of the for spawning, nursery Florida Keys,” Talbott said. “The day grounds, refuge or forage. Visitors at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilitation Center observe convalescing pelicans. I landed, I realized this was my new Coral reefs play a key home and the beginning of a dream role in the health of the Bird Centers Rescue and to finally do what I love.” oceans and the planet as Talbott and his crew offer multiple a whole, affecting every excursions on the 37-passenger Blu human in some way — and Shelter Winged Wildlife Q catamaran, ranging from the all- two Florida Keys organiza- male clothing-optional Sail, Snorkel tions play a similarly vital n the Florida Keys, visitors can and Nature Center at mile marker & Paddle trip to the Sunset Sail and role in reef restoration and find countless places to connect 50.5 bayside is the small, all-vol- Harbor Tour for LGBTQ passengers preservation. with the island chain’s natural unteer Marathon Wild Bird Center. I and allies. normally grow beauty, unique ecosystems and liv- This sanctuary and rehabilitation Experiences may include visits to very slowly and spawn, or ing things. Among them are centers hospital treats sick, injured and remote islands, sandbars and iso- reproduce, roughly once dedicated to the rescue, care, reha- orphaned cormorants, egrets, peli- lated areas. The reefs and sponge a year. However, scien- bilitation and release of native and cans and other birds. Operating as

gardens of the Florida Keys National tists and researchers with Bob Care migratory birds back to the wild. a year-round rehab clinic, the center Marine Sanctuary offer world-class Mote Marine Laboratory’s Florida Keys Wild Bird Rehabilita- also participates in educational and snorkeling and the chance to view Elizabeth Moore Interna- tion Center in Tavernier is an avian research projects. vast populations of colorful tropical tional Center for Coral Reef hospital and home to a sanctuary Nature and bird lovers can ex- fish and marine life. Dolphins, sting- Research & Restoration, located populations may have perished due on training, followed by afternoon located at mile marker 93.6 that plore an aviary, meet rescued birds rays and sea turtles occasionally in the Lower Florida Keys, and to a changing marine environment. dives to a coral nursery and plant- provides a humane, natural and and discover a haven for wildlife at appear to give passengers a true Key Largo’s world-renowned Coral Branching corals grow up and out- ing site. Only certified divers can protected refuge with acres of the nonprofit Key West Wildlife Cen- aquatic welcome. Restoration Foundation have made ward into dense thickets, attracting help tend underwater nurseries and to serve as a habitat for ter. Visitors can walk through tree- —Greg Tromba breakthrough discoveries that dem- fish and marine life and creating a outplant corals to reefs. injured birds that cannot safely shaded grounds to view tropical bluqkeywest.com onstrate many coral species — new ecosystem. However, recreational divers and return to the wild. Visitors can stroll plants and butterflies, feed turtles Blu Q Sailing Adventures when fragmented into pieces of 1 Divers, snorkelers and ocean snorkelers can monitor the well- the sanctuary’s boardwalk and view at a pond where wildlife gathers to 2 inches — will grow rapidly and lovers can have a positive impact ness of existing coral colonies. The these beautiful creatures. and learn about rescued birds. nearly double in size over a period on the world’s oceans by participat- Coral Restoration Foundation offers All wild birds living in the aviary Wildlife centers welcome volun- of months. ing in recreational coral restora- smartphone users a new app called have permanent injuries or dis- teers with special skills or interests Small coral fragments grown tion dive opportunities. Tailored OKCoral to collect data during trips abilities that prohibit their release. who want to help protect and im- in underwater nurseries and then programs in the Keys can provide to Keys reefs, recording important Visitors can read each inhabitant’s prove the quality of bird and animal outplanted back to reef areas can them unforgettable experiences to information about the health of story and, through them, expand life in the Florida Keys. Keys visi- stabilize, affix permanently to the productively give back to the living, outplanted reef habitats. their knowledge about wild birds tors interested in volunteering can reef’s substrate and grow more dynamic reef systems they enjoy. —Julie Botteri and their protection. explore opportunities at fla-keys. rapidly to a mature size, colonizing One-day workshops include a coralrestoration.org On-site at Crane Point Museum com/voluntourism. —Julie Botteri Guests sail on the Blu Q off Key West. areas of reef where existing coral morning presentation and hands- mote.org

6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 7 FKAA Florida Keys guide Justin Rea releases a fillets soon became passé. permit caught on a fly rod in the Lower Keys. By Doug Kelly But transcending reduced catches evolved an even Photograph by Steve Bly mightier mentality: catch-and-release fishing. Particularly for species not considered dinner fare, such as bonefish and tarpon, heck ... let them all go. In that way, more fish will breed and grow to larger sizes. It’s caught on (pun intended). Most anglers have now embraced the mantra that “a fish is too valuable to be caught only once.” And with the advent of digital cameras and the Internet, one can still score bragging rights on social media without killing a fish. And taxidermists don’t need dead fish to create memorable fish mounts. An approximate length and girth is all that is required for a beautiful and exacting fiberglass reproduction mount. While conservation of fish didn’t originate in the Florida Keys, the region is now the world’s poster child for it. Even novice anglers release every bonefish, permit and tarpon — and while it’s delectable to enjoy a fish fillet now and then, all species are tightly regulated in Florida. Proper ways to release fish can be found through a Google search, and barbless hooks or circle hooks are often employed to deter a fish from swallowing the hook. The welcome mat is out to experience the unparalleled bounty of fishing from Key Largo to Key West. But go about it with a catch-and-release mentality, because that’s why the good ol’ days of Keys fishing are here once again. Doug Kelly, an author of three books including “Florida’s Fishing Legends and Pioneers,” writes travel and outdoors articles for a variety of publications. Andy Newman

ngelbert Humperdinck certainly doesn’t have fish trip to the Keys to fish with Captain Smith. Kreh recognized the drop in numbers of fish, as did in mind when he sings the hit song “Release Me,” After several days of fly fishing, Kreh had racked up veteran Florida Keys guides such as Jimmie Albright Ebut it is an appropriate soundtrack for modern- catch after catch of bonefish. He also battled tarpon, and Cecil Keith. day angling. snook, trout and redfish. On traditional tackle offshore, They arrived at the only sensible answer: anglers In 1939 Florida Keys fishing guide Bill Smith Kreh reeled in reef fish and billfish. It was the good ol’ needed to keep fewer fish. It made no sense to discovered a new game in town: catching bonefish days of Keys fishing. overfill ice chests just for the purpose of “feeding the with fly-fishing gear. Up until then, no one thought that In the ensuing decades, word spread like wildfire via neighbors.” targeting the species on fly was possible. television shows, magazines and newspapers extolling Fishing journalists started pushing a more ‘Please The word slowly leaked out to the restRelease of the world the bounty of Florida Keys offshoreMe’ and light-tackle conservation-focused angle. Government fisheries agencies implemented size and bag limits. Captains until it reached the ears of Bernard “Lefty” Kreh in fishing. Anglers flooded the Keys, and inevitably the Many Florida Keys fishing 1951. increased pressure put a dent in the Keys’ resources began to understand the need for conservation and excursions also include the opportunity to view Kreh (pronounced CRAY), a budding newspaper writer as well as other saltwater fishery habitats around the counseled their clients accordingly. ANDY NEWMAN spectacular sunsets. from Maryland with a knack for fly fishing, arranged a world. Piles of carcasses on the dock or freezer-burned

8 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 9 Konrad Zak Andy Newman Explosives detonate on May 27, 2009, just before the Vandenberg was scuttled in less than two minutes off Key West. Rachel Bowman is the Lionfish Queen

Vandenberg 10 Years Later From Ship to Shipwreck to

assion drives Marathon zoned with a pole spear–clasp- cial fishermen who can capture n May 27, 2009, after over a decade of plan- are spotted on the wreck — species that divers may resident Rachel Bowman, ing mermaid, in waters ranging up to 400 pounds a day of lion- ning and funding totaling $8.6 million, a former not normally see on a coral reef. a dedicated pole spear from 80 feet to 150 feet deep fish — an acceptable bycatch OU.S. Air Force missile-tracking ship called the Vandenberg has been called one of the world’s best P Gen. Hoyt S. Vandenberg — which once tracked space wreck dives. After their initial dive on the venerable ves- huntress who is the Florida Keys’ along reefs and shipwrecks. species in their lobster traps. launches off Cape Canaveral, Florida, and monitored sel, first-timers are hooked, and experienced aquanauts only female commercial lionfish Today Bowman and other Hurtful spines containing Soviet missile launches during the Cold War — was agree that every qualified diver should experience it. fisherman. She spears several conservationists employ popu- venom, not poison, are removed added to a list of military vessels purposely sunk off Properly prepared artificial reefs help take human thousand lionfish each year, lation-control tactics instead of during cooking preparation. The the Florida Keys to become artificial reefs, thus pre- pressure off natural coral reefs, providing alternative removing as many as she can seeking complete removal of the meat is harmless and consid- serving a bit of U.S. history. structures for scuba divers to explore and additional of the voracious invaders from mass-breeding lionfish, since its ered a healthy choice since The 523-foot-long ship is the second-largest vessel in habitats for marine life. They increase marine life popu- Keys waters. rate of reproduction far exceeds it’s rich in omega-3 fatty acids. the world intentionally sunk for that purpose. Located lations, provide a platform for education and research, She is the envy of fellow rec- eradication efforts. Lionfish can be broiled, baked, approximately 7 miles south of Key West International boost the local economy and preserve the history and reational divers and her commit- Lionfish reportedly can live up sautéed, fried or prepared as Airport in nearly 150 feet of water, it also is the south- heritage of the vessel. — Julie Botteri ment is unshakeable. to 15 years. They can grow to ceviche or sushi. ernmost addition to the Florida Keys Wreck Stephen Frink A licensed boat captain, Bow- nearly 20 inches in length and “When you order lionfish off Trek, a series of nine vessels from Key man moved to the Keys 17 over 3 pounds in weight, eating the menu in a restaurant, you’re Largo to Key West that recreational divers enjoy exploring. years ago from Wrightsville smaller fish within 2 inches of also not ordering snapper or Marine engineers had predicted the ship Beach, North Carolina. She and their own size. hogfish or grouper, so you’re would sink in less than three minutes. fellow divers hunt off her vessel “With every lionfish I spear, I’m taking a little bit of pressure off Vandenberg slipped beneath the surface Britney Spears, aptly embla- saving the juvenile fish around it those species, whose popula- and made it to the bottom of the ocean in and I’m preventing that tions are already being affected the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary lion from breeding,” by lionfish,” said Bowman. in a stunning one minute, 45 seconds. Bowman said. She also submits lionfish data Thousands of visiting wreck-certified

Andy Newman Culinary demand for to the Florida Fish and Wildlife divers eager to explore the “Vandy” have the fish, whose fillets Conservation Commission, deemed the site a bucket-list dive. are white and flaky like whose lionfish state records Vandenberg has bloomed into a timeless hogfish, is increasing. program — recognizing spear- circle of life. Seasoned divers consider it an “environmental sweet spot,” reporting inver- Seafood markets, ing and hook-and-line divisions tebrate life covering the ship, big schools of most notably the na- — and a May statewide Lionfish fish and hundreds of species of fish. tionwide chain of Whole Removal Day promote public Vandy’s steps, railings and superstruc- Foods Markets, buy education about the fishery and ture are glazed over with gorgonian corals, A diver explores the Vandenberg off Key West in Lionfish are certainly attractive, but they have a negative whole fish from Bow- recreational harvest of lionfish. sponges and sea urchins. Sailfish, huge hog- the Florida Keys National impact on Atlantic Ocean and marine life. man and other commer- — Julie Botteri fish, parrotfish, squid and large marine life Marine Sanctuary.

Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 10 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler 11 Blue Star Diving, Wildlife Refuges’ Nature Center All-New and Redesigned Resorts Greet Keys Travelers Serves Lower Keys Visitors ccommodations options for Bungalows Key Largo Fishing Programs travelers to the Florida Keys & Help Sustain Keys AKey West continue to expand as the 125-mile-long island chain Coral Ecosystem unveils a variety of all-new and rede- signed resorts. ook before you book and help In Key Largo, Curio Collection by sustain the only barrier coral Hilton debuts the 13-acre, 200- Lreef in the continental United room Baker’s Resort, with States. 17,000 square feet of event space, That’s the message the Florida two pools, a waterfall grotto and Keys National Marine Sanctuary has nature trail. Inclusive pet program- for travelers booking Keys fishing, ming includes a doggie menu, diving and snorkeling trips. The apparel and Tiki huts. sanctuary covers 2,900 square Also in Key Largo, the 12-acre, nautical miles of waters surround- luxury-inclusive, adults-only, 135- ing the Keys, including the coral unit Bungalows Key Largo features reef that parallels the island chain. a “Florida chic” design. Bungalows The sanctuary’s Blue Star pro- average 800 square feet, with pri- Bungalows Key Largo is the Florida Keys’ first all-inclusive resort. gram promotes sustainable recre- vate outdoor plunge pools or tubs. the 5-acre oceanfront 22-room Resort is to open in early 2019 with ational fishing, diving and snorkel- There’s a Zen Garden Spa, two Fisher Inn Resort & Marina. a 3,800-square-foot Hibiscus Event ing through practices that help pools, three restaurants, Tiki boats The 60-acre, 177-room Hawks Center, a 4,000-square-foot spa, a conserve the Keys’ unique marine and 1,000 feet of shoreline. Cay Resort, located on in marina, five oceanfront pools, four ecosystem. Blue Star fishing guides Islamorada’s 25-acre 114-villa the Middle Keys, showcases a $50 food and beverage venues and The and dive and snorkel operators Islander Resort is to offer sleekly million renovation. New amenities Dunes oceanfront event space. know sanctuary regulations and renovated cottage-style accom- include the Sixty-One Prime restau- Among attractions are bocce, how to practice sustainability to modations with screened-in lanais, rant and adults-only Oasis Cay area. croquet, oversized chess, compli- protect the Keys’ underwater trea- a 6,000-square-foot Great Lawn, Attractions include sunset cruises, mentary bicycles, watersports and sures. the 2,760-square-foot Blue Marlin fishing excursions, dolphin encoun- guided fishing expeditions. “By practicing responsible div- Ballroom and Tarpon Terrace with ters, Calm Waters Spa, a West’s 148-unit Parrot Key ing, snorkeling and fishing, visi- Rob O’Neal expanded outdoor space, and a pool, Coral Cay kids’ activities cen- Resort, with four pools and new tors can help to lessen the stress splash pad. The nearby Islander ter and Angler and Ale restaurant. food and beverage concepts featur- on the Florida Keys’ unique and Bayside features 25 two-story two- The resort, a Preferred Hotel Group ing poolside al fresco dining, has economically important coral reef bedroom townhomes. Lifestyle Collection member, also been refreshed. Also new in the is- ecosystem,” said Sarah Fangman, A Key fawn examines surroundings at the on Big Pine Key. Also in Islamorada, the ocean- has two- and three-bedroom villas. land city is The Laureate Key West, the sanctuary’s superintendent. ince the National Key Deer Refuge was established in 1957 in the front boutique 37-room Hadley In Marathon, the 24-acre, 199- an all-suite Opal Collection member. “Efforts to protect the fragile ocean Lower Florida Keys, it has played a vital role in protecting and pre- House Resort has a sister property, unit oceanfront Isla Bella Beach — Laura Myers resources will be appreciated for serving the tiny Key deer and other Keys wildlife species. S Bob Care generations to come.” The refuge is opening a new 1,840-square-foot nature center on Big Pine Blue Star guides take online tests Key — a center that also showcases the island chain’s Key West, Great and are annually certified to be- White Heron and Crocodile Lake national wildlife refuges. come sanctuary partners and share The miniature Key deer, about the size of a large dog, were once almost educational information with clients. extinct. Today the population of shy, engaging is nearing 800. Visitors can be assured that At the new Florida Keys National Wildlife Refuges Nature Center, sur- these operators are dedicated to rounded by refuge lands near mile marker 30.5, visitors can learn about reef sustainability, habitat conserva- the deer and other plants and animals found only in the Keys. Attractions tion and proper fishing, diving and include exhibits, space for interactive events and the Nature/Bookstore snorkeling etiquette. operated by the Florida Keys Wildlife Society. Outdoor enthusiasts who book Protection of the island chain’s priceless resources dates back to the charters with Blue Star guides are 1908 creation of the Key West National Wildlife Refuge. Nature enthusiasts helping to sustain and protect the can share in the region’s long-term focus on environmental stewardship by world-renowned Keys coral reef. exploring the refuges and the new center that helps tell their stories. — Laura Myers — Carol Shaughnessy Hawks Cay Resort, near Marathon, sanctuaries.noaa.gov/bluestar fws.gov/refuge/National_Key_Deer_Refuge completed a $50 milllion renovation.

12 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be • fla-keys.cn 13 Andy Newman

Stone Crab Claws Local Artists Embrace Keys Environment Tamara Alvarez Succulent and Sustainable hey look like the clawed tangy mustard sauce at local talons of some oversized restaurants. They’re also sold Tprehistoric bird, but these in Keys markets and shipped claws — orange-red, pale yellow nationally and internationally. and black — come from the But stone crab claws are more ocean, not the sky.They’re stone than just delicious. crab claws, offering sweet and They’re also a uniquely succulent meat that ranks among sustainable, renewable seafood the Florida Keys’ most popular resource — because crabs can delicacies. regrow harvested claws. Stepehn Frink The island chain is Florida’s While both claws can be Stephen Frink shot this French angelfish at in leading regional supplier of the taken lawfully if each is of legal the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary off Key Largo. world-renowned treat, harvested size, harvesting only one claw during an annual season that runs is preferable for the crab’s irtually all aspects of the Florida Keys’ natural world are Oct. 15 through May 15. protection and feeding ability. reflected in the work of the region’s artists and creative More than 50 percent of Fishermen generally pull the Vspirits. For example, Key West’s Jim Salem paints graceful processed claws shipped larger claw and return the crab to Stone crab claws are delectable and are a birds in their native habitats, while Islamorada’s Michelle Nicole worldwide comes from the Keys. its ocean environment. unique sustainable seafood resource. Lowe is known for her images of fish, invertebrates and turtles. After harvest, the claws are Whether served at a dockside singular sensation — and a can’t- Stephen Frink’s underwater photography depicts the wonders steamed, cracked and served eatery or fine gourmet bistro, miss dining experience for all. of the continental United States’ only contiguous living coral bar- dipped in melted butter or a sustainable stone crab claws are a — Carol Shaughnessy rier reef, which parallels the island chain and provides endless inspiration to the Key Largo photographer. Some artists rely on the Keys environment and its denizens Make Family Memories in the Keys’ Natural World not just for inspiration, but also as their medium of expression. ooking for a place with appealing travel experienc- feeding indigenous Keys fish at Florida Keys Aquarium The Lower Keys’ Kim Workman, a master of the traditional es that strengthen connections between parents, Encounters; or interacting with dolphins at Dolphin Oriental art form of gyotaku or fish printing, memorializes the Lkids, grandparents and extended families? A place Research Center, and other Keys’ finned and gilled population by inking actual fish and to establish a tradition of shared vacations that build facilities. Kayak the secret realm of the Lower Keys’ pressing paper or canvas on them to create exact replicas. lasting family memories? backcountry, walk among hundreds of living butterflies Key West sculptor Helen Harrison, by contrast, is intrigued by That place is the Florida Keys & Key West, a subtropi- at the Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory, and cal island chain rich in nature-themed attractions and celebrate sunset at a nightly Key West street carnival. wood, palm fronds and found objects. She shapes abstract and experiential activities for everyone from young children Or bond over a family fishing trip, catching dinner realistic pieces that reveal the beauty of her materials. to seniors. while guided by a skilled Keys charter captain — and No matter their medium, many Keys artists have another call- They might choose to visit one of the first family- then, at an area restaurant that cooks the catch, share ing besides creating works that chronicle or incorporate their friendly attractions in the Keys. The Key West Aquari- smiles and plans for the next Keys getaway. surroundings. They also are environmentalists — making subtle um, opened in 1935, was also believed to be the first — Carol Shaughnessy yet powerful statements about the need to preserve and protect open-air aquarium in the United States. Unique and Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters the region’s unique ecosystems, habitats and their inhabitants. inviting, it’s home to tropical fish, sea turtles, rays, For example Frink, a strong supporter of Keys marine conser- grouper, tarpon and more. vation, feels that viewing the underwater world can be an impor- The Keys cater to multigenerational travel groups tant motivator in inspiring people to work for reef protection. with accommodations including waterfront villas, RV Artists’ fascination with the Keys is not new. It dates back to parks, spacious resort suites and small inns — and an enticing array of memorable adventures. 1832, when artist and ornithologist John James Audubon visited Families and friends can snorkel together at Key Key West and the . During that visit, he drew nearly Largo’s John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the 20 new species for his “Birds of America” folio. world’s first underwater park; explore the region’s living Whether making creative statements about local flora and coral reef by glassbottom boat or feed wild tarpon fauna or celebrating the ocean realm, local artists have em- Helen Harrison, next to from a dock at Robbie’s Marina in Islamorada. braced the Keys’ ecosystems. They, and those who collect their ‘ENGENDER,’ created There are many other options including learning work, make environmental awareness an art form all its own. from rare cohune palm about sea turtles at Marathon’s Turtle Hospital; and other materials Families can feed Keys fish at Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters. — Carol Shaughnessy including 24-karat gold. keysarts.com

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Shark Point Pahayokee Overlook To Florida Turnpike Card Sisal Pond Sound Ponce De Leon Bay to Miami, other Oyster parts of Florida Bay Mahogany Shark River Hammock and the USA Island 1 North Sweet Bay Key Largo Traveling Tips Everglades 905 Pond Florida Keys National Whitewater Bay National Marine Sanctuary

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Marathon MILE Gulf of Mexico 60 Straits of Florida Long Point Tennessee Key Duck Key Reef Great White Heron Big Pine Florida Keys Big Torch Marathon Intl. Airport MILE 55 National Wildlife Refuge Key Curry Hammock State Park East Turtle Key Shoal Two Humps Deer Key Knight’s MILE Pigeon 50 Vaca Key National Key Key 1 Middle Old Seven Key Deer Mile Bridge MILE West Turtle Torch No Name 45 Refuge MILE The Shoal Key Key 40 Cudjoe Key MILE Seven Snake Little 30 Coffins MILE Mile Patch 20 MILE Torch Saddlebunch 25 Coupon MILE 1 Bridge 1 Key Bight 35 Bahia Delta Shoal Herman’s Summerland Ramrod Hole Alexander’s Wreck Keys MILE Key 15 Key Newfound Honda East Thunderbolt Harbor Keys Washerwoman Sombrero Wreck Lower Hawk Channel Samantha’s Atlantic Ocean Big Coppitt State Park Reef West Sugarloaf Key Key Key Flagler’s Barge MILE American Dredger’s Key West Golf 10 Newfound Harbor Wreck Course and CC Shoal Coral Heads Key 1 Artificial Reef MILE 5 Maryland U.S. Naval Geiger Big Pine Stock Shoals Adolphus MILE Air Station Key Shoals 0 Island Busch Sr. Florida Keys Wreck Reef Preserve National Ft. Taylor Key West SOUTHERNMOST Intl. Airport fla-keys.com State Park POINT Marine Sanctuary KEY WEST, FL Western Eastern Pelican Straits of Florida Sambos Shoal Eastern Sambos Florida Keys Dry Rocks Joe’s Tug National Sand Key Marine Sanctuary Western Cayman Vandenberg Dry Rocks Salvor Wreck Wreck

The 125-mile-long Florida Keys island Driving Data to Keys/Key Largo Weather/Climate chain is linked to mainland Florida by U.S. FROM MILES KM HOURS Wherever you are right now, chances are Highway 1, the . Visitors Miami 50 80 1 the weather is better in the Florida Keys. can fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) Fort Myers 200 320 4 That’s true even on a summer day. The or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Tampa 300 480 6 Orlando 280 450 5.25 hottest it’s ever been in Key West is 97° F Airport (FLL) and from there can reach (36° C), and that was in 1880. At the the Keys by airport shuttle bus or rental Distance from Miami peak of summer, the average high air car. Travelers can reach Key Largo, the REGION MILES KM MILE MARKER temperature is about 89° F (32° C). The gateway to the Keys, in about an hour from Key Largo 50 80 107–90 Keys are devoid of superhighways or Islamorada 76 122 89–66 Miami or an hour and 45 minutes from Fort urban sprawl to absorb and radiate the Lauderdale. Marathon 111 178 65–45 Lower Keys 128 205 44–5 sun’s heat. And the subtropical islands are Air Service to the Florida Keys Key West 159 254 4–0 cooled by sea breezes. In the winter, the Keys are typically the For an up-to-date roster of commercial Via Bus warmest region in the continental U.S. airlines and on-demand charter operators Bus/shuttle connections from MIA and There has never been a frost in Key West, serving Key West International and Florida FLL to the Florida Keys allow traveling to the according to the U.S. Weather Service. Keys Marathon International Airports, go Keys without renting a car. Below are the average monthly air to fla-keys.com/how-to-get-here. Via Boat temperatures for the past 30 years, Driving Directions Ferry connections from Fort Myers or according to the Key West weather office. Temperatures in blue shades are From Miami International Airport (MIA), Marco Island to Key West are offered Fahrenheit and those in red are Celsius. take LeJeune Road south to 836 West. via the Key West Express. Voyages take Take the Florida Turnpike (State Road 91) approximately 3.5 hours. south toward Key West. Extensive details on getting to the Florida The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in Florida City. Keys & Key West are available at: Follow U.S. 1 south about 22 miles fla-keys.com/how-to-get-here to Key Largo and you and your travel companions will be in the Florida Keys. From Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood Inter- national Airport (FLL), exit the airport and facebook.com/floridakeysandkeywest follow the signs for I–595 West. Take 595 to the Florida Turnpike and follow the signs Help and More Information for the Florida Keys. If you’re traveling in the Keys and From farther north, take the Florida @thefloridakeys need any help, call the toll-free visitors Turnpike south to just below Fort assistance line at 800-771-KEYS. It’s Lauderdale, where Exit 4 joins the southern staffed 24 hours a day. To contact visitor portion of the Turnpike that ends at U.S. 1 offices in the Keys, call 800-FLA-KEYS. in Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south into the youtube.com/FloridaKeysTV The Keys website at fla-keys.com has a Florida Keys. live chat feature with visitor information From Florida’s west coast, take I–75 Insta specialists available during regular U.S. (Alligator Alley) south to the Miami exit, and weekday business hours to aid travelers in south to the Turnpike Extension. keysvoices.com @thefloridakeys vacation planning.