Indian and Affaires indiennes Northern Affairs et du Nord Wild Rivers: Parks Canada Pares Canada Yukon Territory Published by Parks Canada under authority of the Hon. Warren Allmand, Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, QS-7014-000-EE-AI

Les releves de la serie «Les rivieres sauvagesw sent egalement publies en francais. Wild Rivers: Yukon Territory

Wild Rivers Survey, Planning Division, Parks Canada, Ottawa, 1976 2

Bennett Lake, one of the many lakes that make up the headwaters of the Yukon River. 3

'It is difficult to find in life any event and water, taken in the abstract, fail as which so effectually condenses intense completely to convey any idea of their nervous sensation into the shortest fierce embracings in the throes of a possible space of time as does the rapid as the fire burning quietly in a work of shooting, or running an im­ drawing-room fireplace fails to convey mense rapid. There is no toil, no heart the idea of a house wrapped and breaking labour about it, but as much sheeted in flames." coolness, dexterity, and skill as man can throw into the work of hand, eye Sir William Francis Butler (1872) and head; knowledge of when to strike and how to do it; knowledge of water and rock, and of the one hundred com­ binations which rock and water can assume — for these two things, rock 4

©Minister of Supply and Services Now available in the Wild Rivers Canada 1976. series: Available by mail from Printing and Saskatchewan Publishing, Supply and Services A Iberta Canada, Ottawa, K1A 0S9, or through Quebec North Shore your bookseller. Soon to be available: Catalogue No.: R62-82-1976-3 Central British Columbia ISBN: 0-660-00471-2 Northwest Mountains The Barrenlands Price Canada: $1.50 The James Bay/Hudson Bay Region Price other countries: $1.80 Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Price subject to change without notice Ontario Labrador and Newfoundland 5 Table of Contents

Foreword 6 6 Pelly River 49

The Wild Rivers of the 7 MacMillan River 55 Yukon Territory 8 Climate 9 8 White River 59 Planning the trip 9 9 Stewart River 63 Map of Wild Rivers of Yukon Territory 10 10 Sixty Mile River 69

1 Yukon River 11 11 Klondike River 73

2 Nisutiin River 27 12 Bell and Porcupine rivers 77

3 Teslin River 33 Further reading 84

4 Big Salmon River 39

5 Ross River 43 6 Foreword

Wild rivers are a priceless part of our throughout the vast interior of the natural heritage. Untouched by the continent. The settlers who followed march of man's technological progress, travelled the same routes. these waterways are the arteries of The waterways were the mainstay of our land, and one of the main elements the fur trade; they were the highways in its growth to nationhood. to the gold rushes. They did much to Long before Europeans laid eyes on provide the economic nourishment them, these rivers served the native through which Canada grew to its pres­ peoples as sources of food and means ent stature. of transportation. Later, the rivers were to carry the Europeans on voy­ ages of exploration and exploitation 7

With the advent of modern technol­ of anxious prospectors toward the reason that Parks Canada decided to ogy, some of our rivers were harnessed promise of gold. carry out surveys of wild rivers all to serve our newfound needs. But Parks Canada is promoting these across the country. The result is this thousands of miles of waterways, and challenging voyages of discovery, series of booklets, designed to the land they pass through, remain which embrace both the past and the provide a practical guide for the mod­ essentially untouched. present. ern "voyageur". Today, Canadians are gradually However, a good deal of down-to- Although "wild" is used to describe rediscovering these fascinating wild earth information about the rivers and rivers not yet harnessed to industry, it rivers. They are recreating the their habits is needed before anyone is an apt adjective, for many of the riv­ adventures of the explorers; struggling attempts to navigate them. It is for this ers should be challenged only by expe­ over the same portages as the heavily- rienced and well-equipped canoeists. burdened "coureurs de bois"; running rapids which once hurtled "voyageurs" and their precious car­ goes toward the markets of Mon­ treal; gently floating down majestic rivers which once carried thousands 8 The Wild Rivers of the Yukon Territory

It was the gold that first attracted men swift-flowing rivers. Most of the major to the Yukon. Fifty thousand came, tributaries are of the latter type. They most of whom had never experienced are not difficult to navigate and can the wilderness. Hundreds lost their be recommended for canoeists with lives. The Yukon became a testing little experience. ground for character. It was not for Whatever river one chooses, it will be gold that most strove and suffered. endowed with a rich history from the To reach the Klondike became a era of the fur trade and the days of '98. matter of personal honour, a test of By travelling the same rivers and visit­ one's character. ing the same places, one gains an Although modern canoes, detailed insight into the character of those maps and freeze-dried foods have who searched for, and perhaps found, taken out much of the hardship wil­ the pot of gold at the end of their per­ derness travel remains a challenge. sonal rainbow. The rivers of the Yukon vary from white water torrents to smooth but 9

Climate Planning the trip

Weather in mountainous regions is In planning a canoe trip, allow 25 to 35 Permits for fires and fishing may be unpredictable and water levels fluc­ kilometres per day paddling. Always required. Extreme caution should be tuate. Long periods of heavy rain will allow extra time and food for such un­ exercised in the use of fire. Campfires rapidly raise river levels. Generally, foreseen events as being windbound should be built only on rock or sand water levels become low towards the or delayed by rain. If egress is to be by and extinguished completely. All gar­ end of August with flood peaks occur­ plane make sure arrangements are bage should be packed out with you. ring in early summer as a result of taken care of before the trip begins. Be A sturdy canoe, capable of handling snow-melt and early summer rainfall. sure to check out with some respon­ well in rapids, and equipment for its Temperatures during the latter half of sible agency, such as the RCMP, giving repair,are essential. Aluminium canoes August range from night-time lows a them a route and expected time of ar­ were used throughout the surveys and few degrees below 0° Celsius to day­ rival. Don't forget to check in with proved most practical. Since lining and time temperatures around +11° them at the end of the trip. hauling are often necessary, several Celsius. Low clouds may cover the pairs of running shoes or other sturdy valley floors in the mountains and fog footwear which can take the abuse of is common to the Arctic Coastal Plain and the first few kilometres of the front mountain ranges. 10

rocks and constant wetness are needed. In the more isolated regions an emer­ gency survival kit is advisable. The kit should contain high-energy food ra­ tions, waterproofed matches, fishhooks and line, and emergency rescue flares for signalling aircraft. These items should be well waterproofed; if the kit is small it could be worn on your belt. Firearms are never necessary. The National Topographic Series of maps is available from: Canada Map Office, 130 Bentley Ave., Ottawa, Ontario K2E 6T9. 11

1 Yukon River 12

Yukon River Access and egress Maps required

Marsh Lake to the Yukon/Alaska Marsh Lake, the starting point of this (N.T.S. 1:250,000) boundary trip is accessible from the Alaska High­ 105 D Whitehorse way. Alternative points of access are 105 E Laberge Length Whitehorse, Carmacks and Minto. The 105 L Glenlyon 15 to 20 days/848 kilometres latter two towns can be reached by the 115 1 Carmacks no portages Keno Road. The trip can end at Daw­ 115 J Snag son, Clinton Creek on the Forty Mile 115 0 Stewart River Date of survey River or at Eagle, a few kilometres be­ 116 B,C Dawson June 1971 yond the border into Alaska. Dawson has public campgrounds and a com­ mercial airport. 13

About the river

Geography In contrast, the remainder of the of suffering from drought and the Geologically, the central feature of the Yukon has been extensively glaciated. dryness has increased the incidence Yukon Territory is the Yukon Plateau, The individual mountain groups that of forest fires. The purple hue of bounded on the east by the Mackenzie rise abruptly from the plateau have been fireweed now covers the vast areas Range and on the west by the St. Elias rounded and valleys broadened by the of burned timber. Mountains. Draining the plateau is the Pleistocene ice that spread from the Other plants common to the Yukon vast network of the Yukon River sys­ surrounding rim of mountains onto the are wild rose (often found growing on tem. From the long fiord-like lakes that plateau. This variety of geological the sites of abandoned cabins), purple form its headwaters, only 24 kilometres processes has added scenic diversity lupine, violets, labrador tea, wild from the Pacific Ocean, the Yukon to the Yukon Territory. onion, creeping snowberry, blueberry begins its 4 000-kilometre descent to and raspberry. the Bering Sea. The river is navigable Flora from Whitehorse to Norton Sound - The vegetation of the Yukon is mainly Fauna a distance of 3 520 kilometres. coniferous, and the predominant tree Fauna commonly sighted along the In the northwestern Yukon the pla­ species are white spruce, lodgepole Yukon River are black- and, occa­ teau is unglaciated and the main pro­ pine, alpine fir, balsam and aspen sionally, grizzly-bears, moose, lynx, cess of erosion has been fluvial. This poplar. wolf, porcupine, beaver, muskrat, process has created a topography char­ In the drier areas are patches of ducks, geese, falcons, eagles and song acterised by narrow V-shaped valleys grassland and transitional poplar birds, particularly bank swallows. with sides diminishing in steepness forest. Vegetation has the appearance Grayling, whitefish and northern pike nearing the flat summit. In places, are abundant in the Yukon River and castle-like outcrops rise out of the hill­ its side streams. tops. Landscape of this nature is prom­ inent in the area near Dawson. 14

History 1886, the discovery of gold on the the city to its Gold Rush appearance. In 1840, Robert Campbell of the Hud­ Forty Mile River and, 10 years later, The famous Palace Grand Theatre is son's Bay Company entered what is the Klondike discovery of 1896, again open to the public, as is the now the Yukon Territory via the Francis brought a stampede of prospectors to Robert Service Cabin. A number of and Pelly Rivers. Eight years later Fort the Yukon. Dawson was the centre of other buildings are going to be re­ Selkirk was established at the junction activity and at one time, during the peak stored. The two riverboats, the S.S. of the Pelly and Yukon Rivers allow­ of the gold rush, it was the largest Keno and the S.S. Klondike have also ing the Hudson's Bay Company to ex­ Canadian city west of Winnipeg, dwarf­ been brought back to life. pand its fur-trading industry into this ing both Vancouver and Victoria. Roads and airplanes have replaced previously unexplored territory. The fur Fires destroyed many of the build­ the Yukon as a transportation artery trade was short lived, for in 1852 Fort ings of those climactic days, and for a of the North, leaving the banks of the Selkirk was looted by Chilcoot Indians. number of years Dawson was little river relatively uninhabited, and un­ Thereafter the Company abandoned more than a ghost town. Today, how­ disturbed over the greater part of its all its establishments in the Yukon and ever, it has become a part of the Klon­ length. over the next 20 years, trade and pros­ dike Gold Rush International Historic pecting were suspended. Then, in Park, a co-operative undertaking be­ tween Canada and the United States. A major project has begun to restore 15

The canoe trip

Yukon (Lewes) River from Marsh Beyond the dam, the river meanders Half way down the Canyon, a foot­ Lake to Lake Laberge for 10 kilometres between densely veg­ bridge crosses the river. The Lewes River drains Marsh Lake at etated, undercut and slumping banks. Below Miles Canyon the river opens its northern limit, flows in a north­ Old logs embedded in the ground mark up at Schwatka Lake, formed by the westerly direction past Whitehorse and the site of Canyon City, located on large power dam located at Whitehorse empties into Lake Laberge. the east shore about 1.5 kilometres Rapids. The lake, besides serving as In its first 11 kilometres the river before Miles Canyon. In 1898 the Klon­ a reservoir, is also the float plane base passes through an area of flat shoreline dike stampeders stopped here either for the city of Whitehorse, located 2.5 with large areas of grass and scrub to have their equipment taken around kilometres away. In this section of the brush marshes. Behind these marshes Miles Canyon or to scout the rapids Lewes River, from Marsh Lake to (and the low banks are covered with mix­ before attempting to run them. Miles including) Schwatka Lake, the water tures of spruce, poplar and pine. Canyon is a narrow rock-walled gorge is of excellent quality; there are how­ A dam is located where the Alaska about 1.5 kilometres in length. Within ever few areas suitable for campsites. Highway crosses the river, 11 kilo­ the 25-metre vertical rock walls the The Lewes River takes on a different metres below Marsh Lake. Canoes can water is turbulent but easily runable. character below Whitehorse. The river be guided past this dam through a set averages 200 metres in width, con­ of locks found on the right. When tains scattered islands and is frequently coming out of the locks, it is advisable confined by 50-metre clay banks. to keep to the left in order to avoid the strong back eddies. 16

Lake Laberge able campsites may be found on the The Thirty Mile Lake Laberge, made famous by poet island or along the shore where open This section is perhaps the most Robert Service in his poem, "The beaches alternate with rock outcrops. spectacular area of the Yukon River. Cremation of Sam McGee", is located Upon leaving Lake Laberge at its north­ The river runs from the wide open in a long valley surrounded by hilly ern end sand and gravel bars will be vistas of Lower Laberge into a narrow and mountainous country. The lake is encountered, since the lake becomes winding channel enclosed by almost some 50 kilometres in length and is very shallow. These may be treach­ perpendicular sand and gravel aligned in an almost north-south direc­ erous for powered craft and caution bluffs, ranging from 15 to 100 metres tion. should be exercised. The middle chan­ in height. The water of this lake is of question­ nel and the channel on the left limit There are no rapids in this section, able potability. Raw sewage from are the two navigable ones of the three but there are a few areas of riffles. Whitehorse is deposited in the Yukon which exist. At Lower Laberge, a small abandoned River some 32 kilometres upstream. Squalls are common on Lake Laberge community exists. A telegraph station A water pump is located at the govern­ and care must be taken when crossing is marked as an historic site and is pro­ ment-operated campground located the open stretch of water in a canoe. It tected by the Territorial Government. opposite Richtofen Island. Other suit­ is advisable to follow the shoreline. The The remains of an old steamer, trip can be completed in two days of Casca I, are also to be seen on the easy travel if there are no head winds. shore. An abandoned telegraph A trip that is to originate at White- horse or Lake Laberge may depend on ice conditions. The ice can move out at any time from the end of May to the 10th of June. 17

Lake Laberge from Richtofen Island 18

line follows the river along the right limit, and can occasionally be glimpsed from the river. Twenty-seven kilometres down from Lower Laberge there is a log cabin which was at one time a refuelling sta­ tion for steamers. Good campsites are found along most of the Thirty Mile. No problems with firewood and water should be encountered. There are good opportu­ nities for hiking, and beautiful pan­ oramic vistas may be seen from the nearby hills.

The Yukon valley from the top of Glassy Mountain 19

Hootalinqua to Little Salmon High bluffs occur less frequently than A few of the hills that line the banks This 110-kilometre section of the on the Thirty Mile River. Large-scale of the Yukon offer magnificent views Yukon River begins at the mouth of the slumping and undercutting is pre­ of the Yukon River valley. One such hill Teslin River. valent. is Glassy Mountain. A climb to the top Hootalinqua - an Indian word for Big Salmon Village, at the mouth of of this 600-metre mountain offers a "where two big waters meet" — is the the Big Salmon River, was once a trad­ panoramic view of the Yukon valley site of a former North-West Mounted ing post. The buildings on this site and distant mountains. Police roadhouse, now protected by the are in reasonable condition and are pro­ Campsites may be found on islands, Yukon Territorial Government. The tected by the Territorial Government. the shoreline, or among the abandoned site, located on the left limit directly Erickson's (or Byer's) wood camp is cabin sites found along the banks. across from the mouth of the Teslin an abandoned camp located on the Most cabins can provide shelter for River, consists of a few cabins, one of right limit a few kilometres below Big four to six people. which is habitable. One and a half Salmon. Some of the cabins are hab­ kilometres downstream is the paddle- itable. It is located on a high cutbank wheeled steamer Evelyn, in drydock. and may therefore be difficult to find. With the additional water entering Drinking water may be taken from a from the Teslin, the Yukon suddenly slough at the back of the river, if the becomes grey-brown in colour. The silty water of the Yukon is found river also becomes wider and deeper, undesirable. with a velocity of around eight kilo­ metres per hour. 20

Little Salmon to Carmacks stream are some Indian cemeteries In the areas near the mouth of the In the next 67 kilometres down the with traditional spirit houses. Little Salmon River, Eagle Bluff, and the Yukon River, some of the wilderness Lakeview has four abandoned build­ approach to Carmacks, there appear atmosphere of the river is lost, due to ings in good condition that show signs other hills, even more ruggedly steep the proximity of a road and power lines. of periodic use. A trail from Lakeview and barren, that rise about 500 metres More islands appear in this section provides an interesting side trip of above the river. Three kilometres be­ than on the previous parts of the river. several kilometres along an attractive fore Carmacks there is a coal mine on The river averages 6.5 kilometres per brook that offers good grayling fishing the right limit. hour until Columbia Slough is reached in its clear, swift waters. Carmacks, located at the intersec­ where the velocity decreases to three Eagle Bluff is spectacular. Located tion of the Klondike and Robert Camp­ kilometres per hour. The main chan­ on the right limit, a few kilometres bell Highways, has a population of nel is not difficult to follow through above Carmacks, this sedimentary rock under two hundred. It is a service cen­ this slough. Exposed sand and gravel knob rises 200 metres above the river. tre offering a store, post office, gas sta­ bars are common, as well as low, The Robert Campbell Highway and tion, hotels, taverns, RCMP and Yukon banked islands which are covered power lines can also be seen. Forest Service posts. Carmacks is the with thick, brushy vegetation. last opportunity to purchase gas or Little Salmon village is located at other supplies before Dawson, which is the mouth of the Little Salmon River. In another 413 kilometres downstream. this village there are an old mission and a cabin in good condition. Up­ 21

Campsites may be found on gravel Carmacks to Rink Rapids River and result in a multi-channelled bars, islands, cabin sites and on the Canyon-type topography and Five course. The rapids are best run through left limit below the bridge at Carmacks. Finger Rapids are the highlights of the the right-hand channel. Aligning for There is usually a light breeze on the next 50 kilometres. the run through the rapids should take gravel bars which offers some protec­ Shorelines are mostly rock slopes, place at the old winch house which tion from insects. Columbia Slough with some sand and gravel bluffs just is located on the right limit, just up­ is not recommended as a camping area. below Carmacks. At Five Finger coal stream from the rapids. The winch The highways and secondary roads mine, located about a half-kilometre was used to pull the sternwheelers that lead to the river's edge provide above Five Finger Rapids, weathered by cable up through the fast water. easy access to the river. sandstone has produced hoodoos. Hill­ On the right limit of Five Finger sides, with some rock outcrops, are Rapids, the Klondike Highway parallels barren and rise 150 metres above the the river. river. The mine, now caved in, once produced coal used to power the steam-driven sternwheelers. The rapids are the outstanding at­ traction of this section, since they are the only obstacle to river navigation over the entire length of river from Whitehorse to the Bering Sea. The rock palisades or "flower-pot islands" at the rapids are unique to the Yukon 22

Rink Rapids to Fort Selkirk Two buildings in poor condition Mounted Police post. An emergency This 85-kilometre stretch of river has and the odd piece of equipment are airstrip is located behind the townsite. some of the lowest topography of the all that remain of this site. Wild Access and egress may be gained at area between Whitehorse and the roses and bluebells grow in profusion Minto, as the Klondike Highway passes Alaska Boundary. in the clearing, as they do in most for­ within 1.5 kilometres of the river, and Rink Rapids, the second and last merly settled areas along the Yukon is also possible at Pelly Crossings on rapid, will be encountered just below River. the Pelly River. Dawson City is the next Five Finger Rapids. Rough water is The abandoned townsite of Minto point of egress. evident, but may be avoided by closely marks the beginning of higher banks As Fort Selkirk is approached, basalt following the right limit. and higher land, but at the same time outcroppings appear along the right Below Rink Rapids there is a large the number of islands, sloughs and limit. Fort Selkirk was established as a area of white volcanic ash along the marshes increases. This characteristic Hudson's Bay Company outpost by right limit. In the Yukon Crossing area continues to the mouth of the Pelly explorer Robert Campbell in 1848. The above Fort Selkirk, high peaks sur­ River and Fort Selkirk. site is abandoned except for an Indian round the wide river valley. Below The settlement of Minto, abandoned caretaker. There are 1 5 buildings, most Yukon Crossing, the relief is more sub­ by the natives in 1954 after a series of of which are in fair to excellent con­ dued. The valley becomes wide and unsolved murders, has an old church, dition. Fort Selkirk is located on a high low, with rolling topography. a number of shacks and a North-West bank on the left limit, directly across At Yukon Crossing, stage-coaches from the mouth of the Pelly River. between Dawson and Whitehorse The townsite extends about one kilo­ were once ferried across the River. metre along the river and offers an excellent view of the basalt wall on the opposite shore. Fort Selkirk originally 23

had a mission and a trading post, with Fort Selkirk to White River and wood camp, floor boards of build­ later additions of a Hudson's Bay Com­ In this 152-kilometre-reach the sand ings still remain. At Britannia Creek, pany store, a Taylor and Drury Depart­ bluffs evident in previous sections of an old road leads 37 kilometres to the ment store, and a North-West Mounted the river have now disappeared. abandoned placer mine site. A similar Police post. A one-room school house The basalt wall opposite Fort Selkirk is road at Ballerat Creek extends for remains with many of the old educa­ the dominant feature as it parallels the 22 kilometres up the creek to the site tional aids and equipment still in place. right limit from the mouth of the Pelly of a placer gold mine. At Coffee Creek White and Indian cemeteries and a River to Twin Falls. It is a sheer cliff the remnants of cabins and a trading Catholic church are located back in the of columnar black basalt rising 140 post are difficult to see from the river. woods. Much farther into the forest •metres to a flat-topped poplar-covered Kirkman Creek is now privately owned. there are said to be clearings where plateau. A few buildings, including an old post some early farms were attempted. The river banks are severely eroded office, are located on this site. Mining and undercut, and rise two metres also took place here. Thistle Creek is above the water. Throughout the river set back 275 metres from the river. channel numerous well-treed islands A semi-modern cabin, an old truck, are present. and an abandoned river barge, as well Fiord-type features characterize the as a two-storey log roadhouse that portion of the Yukon River below Twin serviced the old stage road, are Falls. There are few islands along this located at this site. reach and campsites are limited to the shorelines. Historic sites are common along this section of the Yukon River. At Isaac Creek, which was once a placer mine 24

White River to Dawson City At the mouth of the Stewart River, rivers were the main thoroughfares of The Yukon River changes colour below 16 kilometres below the White River the Yukon Territory. the mouth of the White River. It be­ or 110 kilometres upstream from Daw­ The first post office in the Yukon comes an off-white, greyish shade as a son, is Stewart River settlement. One Territory is located on Ogilvie Island result of the glacial silts carried by family now lives there. They operate a directly opposite the mouth of the the White River, which has its source general store that offers a limited vari­ Sixty Mile River. in the Kluane Mountain Range. ety of goods to river travellers. Stewart The Sixty Mile River offers a pleasant Islands, shallow sandbars and float­ River originally consisted of a post of­ diversion into a small-volume, clear- ing debris are common to the stretch fice, telegraph station, trappers' cabins water stream. There is excellent fishing of river immediately below the White and a trading post operated by the at its mouth where the pure waters of River. Alaska Commercial Company. The set­ the Sixty Mile meet the murky waters Shorelines are continually being un­ tlement also serviced barges that of the Yukon. Excellent campsites may dercut. Surrounding hills are as high steamed up the Stewart River carrying be found a half-kilometre up the as in the previous section, but do not supplies to the settlement of Mayo. Sixty Mile River. confine the view of the wide river val­ A small museum contains artifacts of Dawson City, the history of which ley. Good campsites may be found on the days when the Yukon and Stewart has already been briefly described, any of the numerous islands. Travellers lies at the confluence of the Yukon should collect drinking water from and Klondike Rivers, and is one of the side streams. highlights of a trip down the Yukon. You can explore its old buildings or en­ joy the summer programs that describe the Klondike's colourful past. There 25

are side-trips to the dredge tailings of Dawson City to the Alaska The valley widens to several kilo­ the Klondike valley and up to the Mid­ Boundary metres in the vicinity of the Forty Mile night Dome, overlooking the city, as Even though the clear waters of the River and continues as such almost to well as tours of the paddlewheelers Klondike River enter at Dawson, the the Alaska Boundary. Mountains rising S.S. Keno and S.S. Klondike. You can Yukon River continues to be silty. Its 1 085 to 1 395 metres are evident in also visit the large and fascinating mu­ velocity decreases slightly as its width the distance. Rounded hills, that rise seum for a vivid glimpse of the past of varies from a half-kilometre in the area 300 to 500 metres above the river, this historic city. between the Fifteen Mile and Forty Mile front these razor-edge mountains. Even Navigational hazards along this Rivers, to 2.5 kilometres in the Dozen though the valley is wide, the panora­ stretch of water are limited to sweepers Islands area preceding the Alaska ma of hills and the snow-capped Ogil- and shallow waters. Floating vegeta­ Boundary. Sand bars, islands, and oc­ vie Mountains are spectacular and tion, such as sweepers, is a result of casional shallows are evident. unique to the lower Yukon. the continual undercutting of the shore­ Along the river from Dawson to the The valley once again becomes con­ lines by the powerful and fast-flowing Fifteen Mile River the shoreline rises fined near the United States — Canada Yukon River. Rough or choppy waters, approximately 60 metres. The banks are border. The boundary is a 10-metre cut usually found downstream from is­ characterized by steep, wooded hills lands, indicate shallows that are to be and cliffs, with 20° to 35° slopes. avoided if outboard motors are used. Below Fifteen Mile River, the valley becomes almost fiord-like in character. Hillsides steepen, and at times become nearly vertical, dipping directly into the water. Shorelines, if present, are very narrow and rugged. 26

through the bush and is indicated by station, a general store, warehouse, a brass marker on the left limit. and several cabins, of which many are Moosehide, an old Indian village, is in fair condition. on the right limit, five kilometres below Old Man Rock is the single most Dawson. It is a townsite in relatively outstanding natural feature below good condition and can be reached by Dawson City. It is a solitary bastion walking along the right limit from of yellowish rock rising from the flat Dawson. Yukon valley. At such historic sites as Fort Reli­ The river should not present any ance, De Wolfe's Halfway House and difficulty to small craft navigation. Sub­ Silver City, at the base of Galena Moun­ stantial headwinds can be expected tains, little remains to tell of their past. in this wide river valley. The abandoned settlement of Forty Campsites are numerous on islands Mile at the mouth of the Forty Mile and bars except in the Cassiar and River, was the first townsite in the Harry Creeks area. Here they are lim­ Yukon Territory. It has an Anglican ited by the steep and rugged shorelines church, a North-West Mounted Police that dip directly into the river. Forty Mile River is clear, but it is advisable to boil its water even though the com­ munity of Clinton Creek treats its sewage before discharging it into the river. 27

2 Nisutlin River 28

Nisutlin River Access and egress Maps required

Mile 42 on the Canol Road to Access to the river may be gained via (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Nisutlin Bay the Canol Road at Mile 42 or further 105 F Quiet Lake upstream where the Canol Road skirts 105 C Teslin Length the eastern edge of Quiet Lake. Egress 9 days/176 kilometres may be gained at Teslin, located at the no portages mouth of Nisutlin Bay, or at Johnson's Crossing on the Alaska Highway at Date of survey the mouth of Teslin Lake. July 1971 29

About the river

Geography Fauna History The Nisutlin River provides an excep­ Wildlife along the river consists of While the gold rush of 1897-99 has left tionally scenic, quiet trip for the wilder­ great numbers of Canada geese, a va­ its mark on many rivers and streams ness canoeist, offering views of the riety of ducks, moose in the marsh of the Yukon, the Nisutlin River re­ snow-patched Big Salmon Range, roll­ areas, arid beaver. Grizzly and black mains in a relatively untouched state ing vegetated hills, high clay cutbanks, bears are common along the river since it was not gold-bearing. The land a low marshy section with placid marsh banks when the salmon run in the late was inhabited by the ancient tribe of lakes and sand bars, and islands which summer.Twenty-nine kilometres down­ the Inland Tlingit Indians. Today the afford numerous campsites. The river's stream from the starting point is a Nisutlin River is primarily used by the velocity averages five kilometres per nesting area for bald eagles. Grayling Indian residents of the town of Teslin hour with a gradient of approximately are common along the Nisutlin and who trap and hunt in the valley. Their a half-metre per kilometre. There are in its side streams. cabins can occasionally be seen along no rapids, although some riffles occur the river. immediately below the mouth of the Wolf River.

Flora Lying in the Boreal Forest Region, the Nisutlin River Valley supports willow, alder, aspen and small shrubs along its banks. White spruce are located in the valley and on the hillsides, while on the hilltops lodgepole pine grows up to 20 metres tall. 30

The canoe trip

Mile 42 of the Canol Road to especially noteworthy and is located into the river. The river is 60 metres Thirty Mile Creek about 16 kilometres downstream from wide, so sweepers pose no threat to the The campsite at Mile 42 offers a flat the campsite. It features a U-shaped canoeist. With the widening and deep­ dry area with abundant firewood. The bend and high banks. The water swirls ening of the stream, the pool and riffle scenery is dominated by the distant around the bend in boils and surges characteristics give way to a smooth, mountains of the Big Salmon Range, at high water, but is merely swift at easy-flowing and meandering type of which lie to the west. low water. river. The current slows to about five The first 32 kilometres of the river Twenty-four kilometres below the kilometres per hour. Large piles of offer diverse and often spectacular access point, the valley width increases wood have accumulated where the scenery. The banks are 1.75 to two me­ from three to eight kilometres. The river divides to go around islands and tres high and are covered with large gravel cutbanks that marked the in some cases this wood blocks off white spruce or lodgepole pine. The meanders in the river end here, and the channel completely, causing the river is shallow at first but gradually the shores become lower. Slumping river to alter its course and widen becomes quite deep in places. Sand and is evident, with trees sliding and tilting another channel. gravel cutbanks along this first section Nineteen kilometres above Thirty of the river range from 25 to 30 metres Mile Creek, the valley narrows slightly high and are usually topped with lodge- to about three kilometres and con­ pole pine. One of these cutbanks, lo­ tinues as such for 11 kilometres. The cally referred to as "Roaring Bull", is banks become extremely muddy, which makes landing difficult. 31

Thirty Mile Creek to Nisutlin Bay Past Thirty Mile Creek the valley nar­ rows a little then widens to eight kilo­ metres where it empties into Nisutlin Bay. The stretch of river from Thirty Mile Creek to the mouth of the Wolf River is marshy with a width of 100 metres. The Dawson Peaks (eleva­ tion 1 980 metres) in British Columbia can be seen 50 kilometres away. The snowy peaks of the Big Salmon Range are visible 10 kilometres in the dis­ tance. The only rapids in the Nisutlin River are found just below the mouth of the Wolf River. They run for 2.5 kilo­ metres and present no navigational

Quiet water along the Nisutlin River 32

difficulties. Here the river narrows to hind. The right shore of the bay is about 40 metres and the velocity is steep, densely vegetated and strewn 10 kilometres per hour. with logs and driftwood. There do not Towards Nisutlin Bay, cleared areas appear to be any good campsites. The and log piles close to the water's edge bay is about 13 kilometres long from give evidence of logging operations. the mouth of the Nisutlin River to the The Nisutlin River enters Nisutlin Bay town of Teslin, the egress point at the in delta form, with many channels edge of Teslin Lake. Teslin is located divided by brush and grass-covered on the Alaska Highway. islands. The vegetation is very dense and consists mainly of willow and poplar. The delta area is apparently a nesting ground for Canada geese. From the bay, distant views can be seen of the Dawson Peaks, which lie ahead and the Englishman Range which lies be­ 33

3 Teslin River 34

Teslin River Access and egress Maps required

Teslin Lake to Carmacks Access to Teslin Lake and the river (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) may be gained at both the town of 105 C Teslin Length Teslin (Mile 804 of the Alaska High­ 105 D Whitehorse 12 to 14 days/416 kilometres way) and at Johnsons Crossing (Mile 105 E Laberge no portages 837 of the Alaska Highway), five kilo­ 105 LGIenlyon metres down from Teslin Lake on the 115 1 Carmacks Date of survey Teslin River. Access is also possible July 1971 at Mile 794 at Morley Bay; however, no facilities or services are available at this location. Once below Johnsons Crossing, egress may take place at Car- macks (Mile 102 of the Klondike High­ way) on the Yukon River, 160 kilo­ metres below the mouth of the Teslin River. The towns of Teslin, Johnsons Crossing and Carmacks have camp­ sites and services. 35

About the river

Geography Fauna kon River. At the head of Teslin Lake The major body of water supplying Grayling and lake trout fishing is excel­ a small community developed and at Teslin River is Teslin Lake which strad­ lent along the sand beaches of the this town the sternwheeler Anglian was dles the Yukon Territory and British west shore of Teslin Lake as well as built in 1899. It operated successfully Columbia border. The Teslin River the shorelines of the Teslin River. down the Teslin system for three years. empties the northern end of Teslin Moose, sheep, beaver, and a wide va­ The locations of Teslin, Johnsons Lake and flows in a northwesterly di­ riety of ducks and small birds can Crossing, Mason Landing and Hootal­ rection eventually joining the Yukon frequently be seen. inqua served as roadhouses for the River at Hootalinqua, 50 kilometres trek. The Yukon gold prompted the below Lake Laberge. History building of a telegraph line between This system was a natural route during Telegraph Creek and Hootalinqua to Flora the Gold Rush for the trek to the Klon­ link with the wire down the Yukon The shoreline of the Teslin is over­ dike gold streams. The route was 256 River. After the vigour of the Gold grown in places by willow and alder. kilometres up the Stikine River by Rush declined, some of the settlements Behind the beaches is a growth of pop­ sternwheeler from Wrangell, Alaska to along the Teslin continued to thrive. lar and spruce, while on the slopes black Telegraph Creek, then overland to the Mason Landing serviced the Living­ spruce and white spruce predominate head of navigation at Teslin Lake and stone Creek Mine some 22 kilometres with lodgepole pine topping the ridges. finally down the Teslin River to the Yu­ inland from the river. Teslin Cross­ Wild rice grows at some river mouths ing was a terminus of the Teslin Trail and fireweed covers areas recently between the river and Lake Laberge. burnt. 36

The canoe trip

Today all the settlements are aban­ Teslin Lake to Johnsons Crossing Johnsons Crossing to the doned except the towns of Teslin and Teslin Lake, north of the town of Teslin, Yukon River Johnsons Crossing, which became is about 50 kilometres long with the Five kilometres below Johnsons Cross­ permanent as a result of the comple­ Alaska Highway bordering the eastern ing the canoeist is confronted with a tion of the Alaska Highway. Before shore. The western shoreline consists sharp bend to the right and a 50-metre the massive intrusion into the Teslin mainly of sand and gravel beaches. clay cutbank. Water velocity increases River valley during the gold rush, The Dawson Peaks (elevation 1 950 to 6.5 kilometres per hour with light the valley was inhabited by the Inland metres) can be seen to the south at the rapids. After passing another bend to Tlingit Indians. boundary of the Yukon and British the left, the river opens up and flows Columbia. Hayes Peak, toward the through a wide area of sloughs, with western end of the lake, rises 1 880 high wooded banks set about one kilo­ metres. Five kilometres before John­ metre from the shore on both sides. A sons Crossing the lake narrows from 100-metre high clay cutbank is evident three kilometres to a half kilometre on the west side above Squanga Creek, at the beginning of Teslin River. The a narrow stream entering the Teslin water begins to flow at one kilometre about 13 kilometres below Johnsons per hour here. A bridge on the Alaska Crossing. Wild rice grows in abundance Highway at Mile 837 crosses the at the mouth of the creek. Squanga Teslin at Johnsons Crossing. A store, Creek marks the narrowing of the Tes­ post office and telephone are located lin River and the beginning of a fre­ here along with other services. A quent occurence of high clay and silt public campsite is located on the west bank beneath the bridge. Johnsons Crossing is an excellent access point. 37

banks which in some places rise 1 50 metres above the river. In the distance, the rounded foothills of the Big Salm­ on Range are visible. Swift River has a good camping site at its mouth. The Teslin River valley widens be­ low the Swift River and begins to me­ ander slightly. Mud slides fill the river with silt. Several poplar and grass- covered islands can be found in the 38-kilometre stretch below Swift River. The Teslin maintains a con­ stant width of about 250 metres. Twenty-four kilometres below the Swift River the river narrows to 120 metres and the surrounding land be­ comes low, with fewer hills and moun­ tains visible. The current increases in the vicinity of Sheldon Lake, reach­ ing a velocity of 10 kilometres per hour near Boswell Creek. Rapids, riffles and surges are present but can be easily

Cabin by the Teslin River 38

navigated to the right of mid-stream. ular 150-metre clay cutbank at a Downstream from this point, Mount horseshoe bend a few kilometres below Boswell dominates the landscape. A the site of Teslin Crossing. Numerous few kilometres below, a horseshoe bend bald eagles have been sighted in this to the right with a very high, steep area. Eight kilometres below Teslin cutbank marks the location of Roaring Crossing, the river widens around a Bull Rapids. The water is very swift number of islands and reveals excel­ with swells and white water. These lent views of the Semenof Hills which rapids are free of obstructions and are parallel the river to the east. Below easily navigable. There is an island Mason Landing the river widens around before the highbanks of Roaring Bull some islands, then narrows once Rapids to the right of which most of again to maintain a width of 1 50 the fast water can be avoided. After metres to the Yukon River. The water Roaring Bull Rapids there is a stretch colour becomes turquoise as the of water, 15 kilometres long, where clear water of the Thirty Mile section the river is very wide with many islands of the Yukon meets the Teslin River. and small channels to the east and After the junction an easy paddle west. One area of interest is a spectac­ down the Yukon River brings the canoeist to Carmacks on the Alaska Highway. 39

4 Big Salmon River 40

Big Salmon River Access and egress Maps required

Quiet Lake to confluence with Yukon The Big Salmon can be entered from (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) River (to Carmacks) Quiet Lake. A government campground 105 F Quiet Lake is located on Quiet Lake at Mile 46 105 E Laberge Length on the Canol Road, which runs from 4 to 6 days/190 kilometres Johnsons Crossing on the Alaska High­ no portages way. The other form of access would be by float plane into Quiet Lake. The Date of survey terminating point would be Carmacks July 1971 on the Yukon River. 41

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Fauna Quiet Lake is 30 kilometres long with The Big Salmon River begins its course Wildlife inhabiting the area include a maximum width of four kilometres. It at Quiet Lake (133°5' W latitude, 61 °N moose, deer, black- and grizzly-bear, is bordered on the west by high moun­ longitude). The plevation of Quiet Lake wolf, fox, beaver, fisher, wolverine, tains and on the east by a rolling plain is 777 metres above'sea level and the Dall sheep, squirrel, porcupine and a that extends to the Nisutlin River. The surrounding mountains rise 1 212 number of smaller animals. The river short stream flowing from the northern metres. From Quiet Lake the river flows is a nesting area for several species end of Quiet Lake into Sandy Lake is 150 kilometres to meet the Yukon of ducks and Canada geese. Birdlife is about one metre deep. The velocity of River at the abandoned Indian village varied, with bald eagles and hawks this stream varies between three and of Big Salmon. The "V"-shaped valley frequently seen. Grayling abound in 10 kilometres per hour. Willows line through which the river flows varies the river, trout are found in Quiet the banks, making landings difficult. in width from two to 10 kilometres. Lake, and pike and whitefish in the Sandy Lake is three kilometres long Adjacent isolated peaks rise to over Yukon River. and 1.25 kilometres wide and is bor­ 2 121 metres. dered by high, wooded hills. A stream flowing north connects this lake to Flora Big Salmon Lake, where the Big Salm­ The Big Salmon River lies in the boreal on River begins its northwesterly forest region. The valley bottom con­ course to the Yukon River. The Big tains stands of black spruce, balsam Salmon River flows through a range of poplar, birch, alder and white spruce, mountains 1 200 to 1 500 metres with the banks of the river commonly above sea level with isolated peaks crowded with willow. There is a gra­ well over 1 800 metres. The valley at dation from thick forest cover in the times has a width of less than half kilo- valley to sparse alpine tundra on the upper mountain slopes. 42

metre and is confined by steep-sided form of driftwood. Drinking water may In general, rapids on the Big Salmon mountains. Seventy-two kilometres be obtained from the Big Salmon River. are quite short, but account for a sub­ above its mouth, the river enters a The water, though potable, increases stantial percentage of the river, while wide, wooded valley bordered by in turbidity downstream and an alter­ the remaining portion is smooth with rounded hills. Terraces 60 to 120 native source of drinking water can an easy current. The length of the rap­ metres high are found along the entire be found in the numerous small streams ids varies from 30 to 300 metres length of the river. entering the river. and there is adequate warning of their Log jams in the upper reaches make The river banks often slump and are presence. They may usually be scouted lining or portaging necessary on oc­ characterized by sweepers. Twenty- from the canoe and there is no dif­ casion. Other than cold water and the five-metre cutbanks appear towards the ficulty in aligning for runs. Boulders winds on Quiet Lake, no hazards are mouth of the Big Salmon. The swiftest are present but are usually widely present. The upper reaches of the Big water occurs on the outside of bends spaced, although some difficulty Salmon have limited campsite poten­ with back eddies located on the down­ may occur in running rapids at low tial, although campsites can be found stream side of slip-off slopes. Sweepers water level, due to the presence on the many gravel bars and islands are also present along these cutbanks, of boulders and bars. Portaging, if along the rest of its length. Islands, if and care must be taken to avoid them. deemed necessary, would take place not too damp, provide excellent sites. through relatively dense brush and Insects can be expected in the bush, trees lining the river bank, as no por­ therefore open areas are recommended. tage trails exist. Boils and surges ap­ Firewood is readily available in the pear rather infrequently along the river as a whole, but may occur where trib­ utaries such as the North and South Big Salmon rivers enter the main stream. 43

5 Ross River 44

Ross River Access and egress Maps required

John Lake to Ross River Settlement Access to the area is either by the (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) Canol Road or by aircraft. The Canol 105 J Sheldon Lake Length Road may be used as access to the 105 KTay River 7 days/240 kilometres southwest corner of Sheldon Lake. John 105 F Quiet Lake one portage Lake may be reached by float plane. The trip can end at Ross River Settle­ Date of survey ment, the Faro Bridge Crossing, Pelly July 1971 (low water level) Crossing on the Pelly River or Daw­ son City on the Yukon River. 45

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Wilson and Itsi lakes were not included John Lake to Provost Canyon The Ross River rises in a chain of in this survey. Air reconnaissance left The survey began at John Lake, which lakes just south of Christie Pass in the the impression of an irregular and con­ lies 50 kilometres above Sheldon Lake. Selwyn Mountains. It flows in a south­ fused drainage pattern - a string of The first 19 kilometres below John west direction emptying into the Pelly long, shallow lakes joined by swift, Lake drop at the rate of six metres per River one kilometre upstream from equally shallow streams, sometimes kilometre. The river, which is shallow Ross River Settlement. The latter part with canyon topography. The Itsi Range with many rocks and shelves, is 12 of the trip cuts through the Yukon to the north and the Selwyn Moun­ to 15 metres wide. Lining and hauling Plateau. tains to the west provide a magnificent are necessary for the first 13 kilo­ backdrop for these alpine lakes. metres, although this is made difficult Flora by the rugged shoreline. In travelling The Ross River area lies in the boreal the first 19 kilometres below John Lake, forest region. Large stands of mature 70 per cent of the trip was lined, 25 black spruce and white spruce are per cent paddled, and five per cent common in this region. On the upper portaged. reaches of the Ross River, alpine mea­ An impassable canyon is located dows are evident on the mountain above Sheldon Lake, 1.5 kilometres slopes. Willow and alder are found past Ross River's hairpin turn to the along the banks of the river. west. A portage trail of two kilometres

Fauna Wildlife along the banks of the Ross River is similar to that found along other rivers in the region. 46

follows the right limit of the river. It begins at a moderate rapid before the canyon itself becomes visible. If this rapid is run it will be necessary to haul canoes and equipment up a steep 10- metre embankment to reach the portage trail, which is in good condition. The 29-kilometre section below the canyon is dominated by the view of Mount Sheldon to the south. The river winds through flat marsh lands. Beyond this section many excellent campsites are found on pebble bars and among ma­ ture black spruce groves. Campsites below Sheldon Lake are located on bars and slip-off slopes.

Headwaters of the Ross River, with the Itsi Mountains in the background. 47

Prevost Canyon to Ross River Settlement Prevost Canyon is a series of narrows with walls 25 to 40 metres high. Shelves and rocks lie directly in the current and, at one point, the current flows di­ rectly into a rock wall. This canyon has been navigated, although a portage trail is more generally used. The trail is on the right limit and is 1.25 kilo­ metres long, marked by fallen saplings lying across the mossy path. Not far below Prevost Canyon there are some rapids. A 275-metre stretch of rapid water located 2.5 kilometres above Otter Creek is difficult. Immedi­ ately above Otter Creek there is a stretch of white water a half-kilometre long which is even more difficult. It is known as Skookum Rapids. The left limit appears to be the easier route

Prevost Canyon on the Ross River 48

for portaging and may have a portage there is a rapid that requires careful one kilometre downstream from the trail. The most difficult portion of the manoeuvring in a strong current, fol­ mouth of the Ross on the Pelly River. A rapid can be lined along the right limit lowed by a short rapid flowing ferry and an old pipeline bridge cross and the remainder can be run. At high through a small canyon. the river at this point. The ferry cable, water there would be little or no shore­ Undercut banks, mud slides, pebble which stretches across the river at a line from which to line. Ten to 13 kilo­ bars and slow meandering water are height of 30 centimetres above the metres below Otter Creek the river characteristic of the next 110 kilome­ water, forces the canoeist to duck bed widens, resulting in extended shal­ tres. Ten kilometres above its entrance under it. Float planes can land on a lows and frequently exposed rocks into the Pelly, the Ross flows through small lake nearby. and shelves. These are easy to avoid, what appear to be old river terraces however, as the current is not strong. rising 150 to 250 metres above the A 32-kilometre section of fast water, river. The entire landscape in this area dropping two to three metres per kilo­ is more barren and arid than the upper metre, extends from Lewis Lake to reaches of the Ross. The river drops 13 kilometres below Otter Creek. The quite noticeably through this canyon rapids are generally short and easy and there are some rapids. The gradient with some shelves that require lining. is four metres per kilometre. Five kilometres below Prevost River At the mouth of the Ross River, on the right limit, are an old Indian Village and an abandoned trading post once known as "Nahanni House". The pres­ ent settlement of Ross River is about 49

6 Pelly River 50

Pelly River Access and egress Maps required

Ross River Settlement to Fort Selkirk The Pelly River is accessible by road (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) at the town of Ross River, from the 105 F Quiet Lake Length Robert Campbell Highway upstream on 105 K Tay River 7 to 10 days/398 kilometres the Pelly and from the Faro bridge 105 L Glenlyon no portages crossing, as well as by air into the Pelly 115 1 Carmacks or Fortin lakes. Depending on the point Date of survey of access, egress may take place at July 1971 Ross River, Faro bridge crossing, Pelly Crossing or Dawson City on the Yukon. There is no road to Fort Selkirk, the termination point of this report. 51

About the river

Geography Flora History Today, much of the Pelly River is still The Pelly River lies within the boreal The historical significance of the Pelly untouched by civilization. As a result forest region. The dominant tree spe­ River pre-dates the gold rush days. one may experience the satisfaction of cies are black spruce, white spruce and In 1840, Robert Campbell travelled up a wilderness experience, as well as the balsam poplar. Shrubs such as willow the Liard River, Francis River, and pleasure of travelling an historic route. and alder grow along the river banks. Finlayson River, over the height of land However, the effects of civilization to Campbell Creek at the Pelly River. are too often visible and audible for the Fauna This was to become the site of Fort river to be considered "wild" in its en­ The abundant wildlife here is much the Pelly Banks. He then travelled down the tirety. Roads, trucks and planes, aban­ same as that in other rivers of the area. Pelly to the Yukon River. In 1892, doned exploration camps and bridges, Warburton Pike travelled from Francis are never more than a day or two apart. Lake, up Yusezyu River to the height Much of the Pelly River region has of land, down Ptarmigan Creek to the also been ravaged by extensive forest Pelly Lakes and eventually down to fires in the past five years, leaving vast the Pelly itself. expanses of unattractive landscape. Nevertheless, there are still enough large areas of magnificent wild country­ side to make the voyage a very satis­ fying wilderness canoe trip. 52

The canoe trip

Geological Survey Reports by Dawson, Keele and Warburton Pike provide excellent descriptions of the section of the Pelly River above Ross River.

Ross River to Faro Bridge Crossing Navigation along this 69-kilometre section is not difficult. It is character­ ized by sand and clay terraces, rising 40 to 60 metres on the north bank, while to the south the Pelly Range is visible in the distance. The water in mid-July is silty, but clears towards the end of August. Meanders are long, with gravel bars on the slip-off slopes and constantly eroding cutbanks. Chan­ nels and islands become numerous above Faro, but the main channel is easy to follow. The Robert Campbell Highway is visible along this section. Limited supplies may be purchased at the town of Faro, a company town servicing the Anvil Mine, 16 kilometres north of the Pelly River.

The Wilkinson's cabin looks out on the Pelly River. 53

Faro to Pelly Crossing rapid is short, wide and shallow with channels, of which the right is the more This 261-kilometre stretch of river is boulders breaking the surface of navigable. There are many excellent the most exciting and untouched sec­ the water. campsites and abandoned cabins along tion of the Pelly River. Below Faro, the At Big Fishhook Rapids the channel this section of the river. The Klondike river parallels 2 140-metre-high alpine- flows into a rock face which forms the Highway crosses the Pelly River at type mountains. The channel pattern right limit as the river takes a 90-degree Pelly Crossing. This is the last point of of the Pelly River varies throughout its turn to the left. A strong back eddy egress before Dawson City. There is a length. The river between Anvil Creek is created along the left limit. This daily bus service at the village as well and Earn Creek is a single channel with rapid poses no problem at low water as other services. few islands, while above the mouth of level. Granite Canyon is 21 kilometres the MacMillan it is meandering and below the MacMillan River, 6.5 kilo­ multi-channeled. Below the MacMillan metres long and confined by 60-metre it is straight-running with few islands. cliffs. There are three sets of rapid Little Fishhook Rapids, in an S- water in the canyon. The first, at the shaped bend in the channel, is located head of the canyon, is easy. Three kilo­ three kilometres above Glenlyon River. metres into the canyon, a second set It is best to run the left channel. The with high standing waves is encoun­ tered. Careful manoeuvring is re­ quired through these "dancing horses" or "haystacks". A towering rock at mid-stream divides the river into two 54

Pelly Crossing to Fort Selkirk The current is steady and the channel This 69-kilometre section is relatively fairly straight with few islands. flat for several kilometres below Pelly There are a number of excellent camp­ Crossing. About five kilometres above sites in Bradens Canyon. Fort Selkirk the Yukon River a black basalt wall ap­ is on the left shore of the Yukon River pears above the old river terraces on at the mouth of the Pelly. This point the right hand side of the valley. This marks the beginning of the 285-kilo­ distinctive feature borders the end of metre journey to Dawson. Four or five the Pelly at the Yukon River. At Gull days should be allowed for the trip Rock, 6.5 kilometres above Bradens down the Yukon to Dawson. Canyon, the river is divided into three separate channels by two six-metre high rocks. The right channel is the most easily navigated. Strong back eddies are present in Bradens Canyon, but they pose no threat to navigation. 55

7 MacMillan River 56

MacMillan River Access and egress Maps required

From Russell Creek to the Pelly River Access to the Russell Creek area can (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) be achieved by upstream travel from 105 K Tay River Length Pelly Crossing on the Pelly River (a 105 N Lansing 6 days/232 kilometres distance of over 256 kilometres) or by 105 M Mayo no portages aircraft. Travel upstream would require 105 L Glenlyon a shallow-draught boat with a short- Date of survey shaft motor. It is difficult to land a float late July 1971 (at low flow level) plane in the Russell Creek because, due to silt content, the water is hard to read for shallows. The only road into the area is the Canol Road, which crosses the upper reaches of the South MacMillan River. The trip can,end at Pelly Crossing, where the Whitehorse- Dawson Road passes through, and daily bus service to Whitehorse is avail­ able. The alternative is to continue down the river to the Yukon River, pro­ ceeding from there to Dawson City. 57

About the river

Geography Flora Fauna The valley of the MacMillan River The MacMillan River is in the boreal Wildlife indigenous to the area includes ranges from 1.5 to eight kilometres in forest region. White spruce is the dom­ beaver, grizzly bear, black bear, moun­ width. The river is incised and has cut inant tree species, reaching heights of tain sheep, wolf, lynx, and moose. its way through silts, sands, gravels up to 25 metres. It flourishes in valley Peregrine falcons, eagles, ravens, king­ and boulder clay. Its depth in this drift bottoms and on hillsides 870 metres fishers, Canada jays, swallows, and plain is 60 metres, with a width of 1.5 above the river. Other major species in­ white swans were noted. Canada geese to three kilometres. The drift plain clude black spruce, trembling aspen, and their young, along with a wide borders the river on both sides. It is balsam poplar, balsam fir, black pine variety of ducks, are present through­ bounded by ranges of hills and moun­ and white birch, although white birch out the summer. Fish found in the river tains that rise 600 to 1 500 metres trees here are small and not abundant. include grayling, whitefish, northern above the valley floor. The geograph­ Black pine may be found on beaches pike, king and dog salmon, and lake ical features of the trip alternate along the lower part of the MacMillan trout. Salmon have been known to run between valley flats and snow-capped Valley. Balsam fir grows mainly on as far upstream as Russell Creek. mountain peaks. The MacMillan the mountain slopes. Along the banks Range, Kalzas Range, Clarke Peak and of the MacMillan grow moss, equise- History Lone Mountain add variety to the tum, and tall brome grass. Compared to many other rivers of the scenery of the swampy, flat river val­ Yukon Territory, the MacMillan River ley. The mountain peaks, ranges and has very little historical background broken uplands are the remains of an and has been left in a relatively undis­ extensive highland, destroyed by turbed state. Russell Creek is the only denudation and erosion. The overall area in which gold was found. An impression of the country is moun­ abandoned settlement at the mouth of tainous, although the ranges are isol­ Russell Creek served as a trading post ated by wide valleys and depressions. in the early 1900s. 58

The canoe trip

The MacMillan River from Russell kilometres per hour in the upper sec­ Creek to its mouth at the Pelly River is tions, becoming slower below Lone 232 kilometres in length. Russell Creek Mountain. The swiftest sections of is located 6.5 kilometres below the water occur where the river has cut confluence of the North and South through the necks of ox-bow bends. MacMillan Rivers. Moose River emp­ Towards the mouth of the MacMillan, ties into the MacMillan midway be­ log jams and gravel bars become less tween the fork and its mouth. The frequent and are replaced by large Kalzas River meets the MacMillan stretches of open water, interrupted River 43 kilometres above its mouth. periodically by islands and sloughs. This river drains Kalzas Lake which Potential campsites may be found al­ lies north of the Kalzas Range. most anywhere, as gravel bars occur The MacMillan River has a characteris­ frequently. Here there are few insects, tic meander pattern, with islands and ample driftwood for fires and excel­ driftwood-covered slip-off slopes lent shorelines for landing. Drinking throughout its length. Though braided water may be taken from the river. for the first 65 kilometres below Rus­ However, if silt content makes the wa­ sell Creek, the main channel of the river ter undesirable, the numerous small is wel I defined. The river is 100 to clear streams entering the MacMillan 150 metres wide, and shallow at times, can be used. though still navigable by canoe. The river bed consists of gravel and cob­ bles. The current averages five to 6.5 59

8 White River 60

White River Access and egress Maps required

Snag to Dawson City As alternatives to upstream travel from (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) the Yukon River, access to the area 115 J,K Snag Length may be gained via the Alaska Highway, 115 O, N Stewart River 8 days/288 kilometres or by float plane. The Alaska Highway no portages crosses the White River 41 6 kilome­ tres northwest of Whitehorse. A road Date of survey leading to Snag leaves the Alaska High­ August 1971 way 21 kilometres farther along, and has direct access to the river. A four- wheel-drive vehicle is recommended for travel on this 27-kilometre-long road. Aircraft may land on one of the numerous small lakes in the Snag re­ gion. A portage to the river through muskeg and black spruce growth is necessary. The trip can end at Dawson City. 61

About the river

Geography Flora History The White River is one of the principal The White River valley is in the boreal The White River was used by many western tributaries of the Yukon River. forest region, with the exception of people en route to the gold rush at It rises in the St. Elias Mountains, a small section above Snag, which is Chisana, Alaska in 1913. The poling draining their northeastern slopes along tundra. Small islands support carex, of rafts and small craft, and travel by with its major tributaries, the Donjek, equisetum, alder and willow. Towards small steamer were perhaps the most Kluane and Generk rivers. Flowing the mouth of the White River, the is­ common means of travel in the summer. roughly parallel to the 140° W. meri­ lands not submerged when the river is Dog teams were used in the winter dian, it empties into the Yukon River in flood have balsam poplar inter­ and a pack train operated from Coffee 130 kilometres south of Dawson City. mingled with spruce. Black spruce is Creek to the Chisana district. the major species on the lower reaches of the hillsides with white spruce and balsam poplar evident on the upper slopes.

Fauna During the survey the only evidence of wildlife was beaver, moose, geese and ducks, although a much wider variety of animals, including grizzly bears, is known to inhabit the area. 62

The canoe trip

The White River is extremely high in on the main channel. Back eddies are Campsites may be found on the silty sediment content and is not potable. It common on the downstream side of bars which rise close to a metre above is a highly braided, broad and flat river bars and islands. Side channels, which the present water level, but may be with an average width of 2.5 kilome­ break through thick brush from the covered at a higher water level. A tres. High rock walls line both limits main stream for 11 or 12 kilometres, container should be carried for getting along some sections, but the local afford a change of scenery from the drinking water from side streams. scene consists mainly of driftwood open river. The current is slower in These streams are often blocked by randomly strewn over silty sand bars these channels and logs and sweepers side channels that are at times impas­ that occupy the valley width. The only may be encountered, necessitating sable. variation to the unchanging character­ some manoeuvring. On the upper reaches of the White istics of fast water, wide valley and Due to the heavy sediment load and River the snow-capped Kluane Range bars, is that islands becomes larger swift current, considerable undercut­ can be seen upstream. This view adds towards the mouth, in contrast to the ting and slumping are evident, espe­ variety to the rather desolate scene of more numerous yet smaller bars in cially where the river swings up against the wide, flat White River Valley. Oil the Snag area. the valley sides. Sweepers occur along drums scattered along the banks are The main channel is swift with an these stretches of water and at times the only signs of human use and detract average velocity of eight kilometres over a metre of permafrost is exposed. from the wilderness quality of the river. per hour. Large swells and standing Dawson, the point of egress, is located waves frequently occur in narrow sec­ 130 kilometres down the Yukon River tions but may be avoided. Turbulence from its confluence with the White and choppy waters often appear when River. several channels converge at one point 63

9 Stewart River 64

Stewart River Access and egress Maps required

Beaver River to Dawson City Access to the area may be gained via (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) the Klondike Highway that crosses the 106 C Nadaleen Length Stewart River at Stewart Crossing. 105 N Lansing 14 days/576 kilometres A road leads from here to Mayo, 50 105 M Mayo 1 to 3 portages kilometres away. To gain access to the 115 P McQuesten river upstream of Mayo an aircraft is 115 0 Stewart River Date of survey necessary. Depending on the point of July 1971 access, egress may take place at Mayo, Stewart Crossing, or Dawson City located on the Yukon River. The Mayo Road parallels the river from Mayo to a few kilometres past Stewart Crossing. 65

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Fauna Beaver River to Seven Mile Canyon The Stewart River rises in the Selwyn Animals indigenous to the area include One and a half kilometres below the Mountains, part of the Pacific-Arctic bear, wolf, fox, lynx, moose, rabbit, mouth of the Beaver River, the Stewart Watershed Ranges. The river's source beaver, wolverine, squirrel, geese and River is 80 metres wide, flowing at five is 800 metres above sea level and it a wide assortment of ducks and birds. kilometres per hour over a cobble bed. cuts its way through the Stewart Pla­ Grayling, pike and whitefish may be Small surges and boils are present in teau and various mountain ranges, caught along the river. the brown-green water. No naviga­ with elevations as high as 2 100 metres tional hazards are present. Peaks may above sea level. History be seen upstream in the distance. Mayo emerged as a communications The hillsides on the right are covered Flora and distribution centre for the gold with poplar and scrubby spruce inter­ Black spruce, white spruce, aspen pop­ rush of 1898-1903. Previously the area mingled on an old burn area. This lar, balsam poplar, white birch, alder was the homeland of the Mountain growth eventually gives way to dense and willow are found in abundance Loucheux Indians. stands of spruce and poplar towards throughout the Stewart River area. This the Keno-Ladue valley area. The shore­ is part of the boreal forest region. lines are lined with willow, alder and Forests in good condition are usually a wide assortment of bush growth, such found in valleys and depressions due as juniper, wild rose and Labrador tea. to altitude and latitude combined. 66

The right limit gives way to the Seven Mile Canyon to Lansing Lansing to Five Mile Rapids Keno-Ladue River valley. The terrain At the entrance to Seven Mile Canyon Lansing Settlement, at the mouth of the becomes low and undulating, eventu­ the islands disappear as the river once Lansing River, was at one time a trad­ ally rising to the Ladue range, 10 kilo­ again becomes a single channel. Rock ing post. Today, all that remains of the metres to the west. This snow-patched walls up to 50 metres high line the settlement are a few buildings, of range dominates the view as it appears canyon. Towards the mouth these are which only one is habitable. An excel­ with each bend in the river. Small interspersed with high sand and gravel lent campsite may be found on a chutes are common where the water slopes. A set of rapids encountered at gravel bar at the mouth of the Lansing funnels between an island and the the entrance to the canyon could be River. Sweepers are common along shoreline. Small rapid areas, which can run along the left limit. A rock ledge the cutbanks but may be easily be avoided, are encountered a few juts into the river from the right limit. avoided. This section of the river is kilometres above Seven Mile Canyon Boils, surges and small whirlpools that characterized by long, straight, open where bedrock ledges jut into the river. are common in Seven Mile Canyon stretches alternating with island-stud­ should pose no hazard to navigation. ded, meandering patterns. The Hess Back eddies that can be used for rest­ River enters the Stewart from the left. ing or landing occur frequently along An excellent campsite is located at its the shore. Upon leaving Seven Mile mouth on a wide gravel bar. For a few Canyon a more subdued rolling land­ kilometres below Lansing, Mount Joy scape is met. The Lansing River and may be seen upstream, but in general abandoned Lansing Settlement are the view is confined by the rolling found on the left. topography and isolated hills. 67

Five Mile Rapids to Fraser Falls rock. The 2.5-kilometre stretch below The left limit should be followed Five Mile Rapids is the first major Five Mile Rapids flows at a tranquil five while approaching Fraser Falls. The obstruction to navigation. The rapid kilometres per hour as it approaches river velocity increases in mid-stream may be heard when rounding the Three Mile Rapids. and eventually becomes very rapid at corner across from Horseshoe Slough, Three Mile Rapids are difficult. The the head of the falls. An old coach as it is a half-kilometre downstream rapid should be approached along the road leaves the river just above the from this point. Landing should take right. Above the rapid, the water backs falls and is an excellent portage. The place well above the rapid on a sand up and flows in a circular motion up­ trail leads away from the water and and gravel bar along the right limit. stream along the right shoreline. The terminates at the abandoned settle­ From here a trail leads around the right limit should be followed until the ment of Fraser Falls. Only one build­ rapid which may be scouted from a direction of the shoreline and the flow ing remains. One may view the falls rock outcrop at the edge of the rapids. of water are towards the head of the by paddling across the mouth and Two portage routes exist. One rapid. The canoeist may land in this hiking back up the right side of the route follows the right limit through bay to scout the rapids. The portage river. deadfalls and along an animal trail that around the rapid is on the right limit runs along the side of a hill. A portage but back from the water. It is over large along the left would be over flat bed­ rock slabs and dense brush and ter­ minates just below the roughest section of the water, on a sandy beach. 68

Fraser Falls to Mayo Mayo to McQuesten Airstrip McQuesten Airstrip to the Mouth A trail leads from Gordon Landing Past Mayo, the water acquires an oily of the Stewart River five kilometres back to Janet Lake. This film that adheres to anything placed in The number of islands and bars clear, cold lake is an excellent side trip it. Algae is noticeable on rocks along increases, resulting in several areas for the river-weary traveller. It is an the shoreline and silt content increases of riffles. From Pigue Creek to below easy one or one-half day trip. This sec­ considerably. The water may be pota­ Independence Creek the river valley tion of the Stewart is much quieter than ble but alternative sources of drinking narrows to half a kilometre. the upper sections.The river increases water are the small clear streams that Towards the mouth of the Stewart its volume and load and moves through enter the Stewart. Sand and gravel cut- River islands and gravel banks become a relatively flat river valley. Head winds banks, wide flood plains, plateau relief numerous. Small shallow channels may slow the canoeist in this wide and rolling topography are character­ leading to the Yukon may be navigable and long reach of slow water. At Mayo, istic of this stretch of water. The high­ if the water level is high. Old cabins the canoeist can replenish supplies. way that connects Mayo to Dawson are all that remain of the settlement follows the river closely until a few of Stewart River. kilometres below Stewart Crossing The distance to Dawson from the where it turns north toward Dawson. mouth of the Stewart River is 110 kilo­ A bridge spans the river at Stewart metres. There is a good campsite at Crossing where a cafe and telephone the mouth of the Sixty Mile River, 32 are located. McQuestern airstrip is for kilometres below Stewart River. The emergency purposes only. There are remainder of the trip is an enjoyable no facilities except those provided for day's paddle to Dawson. water bombers. The strip can be seen from the water. 69

10 Sixty Mile River 70

Sixty Mile River Access and egress Maps required

Glacier Creek to the Yukon River Access to the Sixty Mile River is by a (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) side road leading from the highway 116 B, C Dawson Length that connects Dawson to the Alaska 115 N, O Stewart River 5 days/110 kilometres Highway. This side road leaves the 2 portages highway 32 kilometres west of Swede Dome and leads to the abandoned set­ Date of survey tlement of Sixtymile on Glacier Creek. August 1971 A four-wheel-drive vehicle is recom­ mended for travel on this road. 71

About the river

Geography Flora while northern pike and whitefish are The river crosses the 64°N latitude line The Sixty Mile River is located in the abundant at the mouth of the Sixty Mile and lies between 140°W and 141 °W boreal forest region. The dominant River. longitude. It rises in Alaska and flows tree species are white and black spruce. in an easterly direction through a por­ Willow, alder, equisetum and moss History tion of the Yukon Plateau and empties are found along the river banks. The historical significance of the Sixty into the Yukon River 80 kilometres up­ Mile River lies in its gold-producing stream from Dawson. The river valley Fauna past. Although yielding much less gold is generally flat, with the width ranging Wildlife of the area included bear, than the Klondike Valley, the upper from a few hundred metres to 1.5 wolf, moose, and an assortment of reaches of the Sixty Mile River made a kilometres. The sides of the river are waterfowl and small birds. Grayling few people wealthy. Placer mining usually terraced, and at intervals the are found at the mouths of tributaries, methods were used at the turn of the river has cut a secondary rock-walled century, with dredges eventually re­ channel. placing the pick and shovel. The upland area is part of the Yukon Plateau. This highland area has no well-defined mountain ranges but is composed mainly of low rounded hills. Mount Tyrrell rises 1 472 metres above sea level, 992 metres above the river valley. Elsewhere, the topography is more moderate. 72

The canoe trip

From the Alaska boundary to the mouth Below California Creek, the river tributaries on sand and gravel bars of the river, the valley length is 110 takes on a pool and riffle pattern with which are numerous throughout the kilometres. Taking the bends of the depth varying from 1.5 metres in the length of the river. These open bars river into consideration, the river length pools to less than 33 centimetres in the offer an excellent supply of firewood is 200 kilometres. The water drops on riffles. Lining and hauling is still neces­ in the form of driftwood. Drinking water the average 2.5 metres per kilometre, a sary in this area. The volume of water may be taken from the Sixty Mile River total drop of 442 metres. The average increases slightly and the descent is and its clear, cold tributaries. grade of the valley is six metres per less difficult, although bars and rapids Twenty-four kilometres from the kilometre. will continue almost to the mouth. In mouth, the river widens to 50 metres. At the International Boundary, the these upper reaches, sweepers, as well The cutbanks and valley walls are more river is a rapid, winding stream less as bars and boulders are a hazard to subdued than those areas above Cali­ than 15 metres wide, with cobble bars navigation. The former lie across the fornia Creek. In August, water levels lying just below the surface of the width of the river, necessitating haul­ often are so low that care must be taken water. In mid-August, the upper portion ing or a short portage. In other in­ not to damage canoes on the rocky of the river from the boundary to Cali­ stances, sweepers may be situated in river bed. Lining, hauling and portaging fornia Creek can hardly be considered the main current on sharp turns and are frequently necessary. At high water navigable. The 16- or 19-kilometre caution must be taken to avoid contact. this river may either turn into a tor­ section preceding California Creek has Bars and boulders are scattered rent or flow smoothly over its bed of shallow water with cobbles and boul­ throughout the river. The river widens boulders, cobbles and pebbles. ders protruding above the surface, mak­ to over 25 metres below Fifty Mile ing paddling impossible, and requiring Creek and the only hazard to naviga­ travellers to line and haul canoes. tion is again the occasional sweeper. Matson Creek, like Fifty Mile Creek, is rapid and clear. Excellent campsites may be found at the mouths of such 73

11 Klondike River 74

Klondike River Access and egress Maps required

Sixteen kilometres from the mouth of Access to the area is via the Klondike (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) the North Klondike River to Dawson Highway from Dawson to the Dempster 116 B, C Dawson City Highway. Eleven kilometres along the Dempster Highway there is an old road Length with access to the North Klondike 2 days/68 kilometres River. It is recommended that a four- 1 portage wheel-drive vehicle be used on this road. Upon reaching the Klondike Riv­ Date of survey er, the Klondike Highway follows the August 1971 river all the way to Dawson City. The only settlement of the region is Dawson City, the point of egress, at the con­ fluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers. From here roads lead to White- horse or Alaska. An airport services the town and there is daily bus service to Whitehorse. 75

About the river

Geography Fauna History Both the Klondike and the North Klon­ Little wildlife was seen at the time of The Klondike River Valley was the dike rivers rise in the Ogilvie Mountains, the survey; however, the region sup­ centre of the Klondike Gold Rush of the divide north of Dawson City. The ports wolf, bear, fox, moose, beaver, 1897-98. Great quantities of gold were North Klondike joins the Klondike at ducks and other wildlife. Grayling are discovered in the Klondike and in such 138° 45'W longitude just south of 64°N found in both rivers with northern creeks as Bonanza, Hunker, Discov­ latitude. The junction of the two rivers pike, whitefish and salmon at the mouth ery, Eldorado, Last Chance, Gold River is 51 kilometres upstream from of the Klondike River. and Gold Bottom. The discovery of Dawson. gold in this area led to the growth of Dawson City as well as the construc­ Flora tion of the Yukon-White Pass Rail­ The section surveyed lies in the boreal way. Today, all that remains of the gold forest region with tundra immediately rush are the hulks of dredges, the to the north, in the Ogilvie Mountains. many square kilometres of tailings and The banks of the North Klondike River an assortment of equipment used in have a thick cover of willow and alder. the extraction of gold. The river banks for the last 13 kilo­ metres above Dawson support no plant life because of earlier gold-dredging operations that have left huge piles of tailings. 76

The canoe trip

North Klondike River water. The view along the North Klondike River At the point of access, the North Klon­ Klondike is limited by the tall trees The North Klondike enters the Klon­ dike River has a width of eight metres that line either side of the river. Camp­ dike River by three channels. The width with 50 centimetres to one metre of sites are difficult to find. The open averages 30 metres and no sweepers water flowing over a cobblestone bed. areas are mostly composed of cobbles. or shallow water are encountered, al­ The water is characterized by shallow The river is recommended for the ex­ though numerous riffles occur until the riffles and numerous sweepers. The pert canoeist only, both at low and high braided section begins 24 kilometres current is swift, with sweepers com­ water levels. above Dawson. The rapids which oc­ mon along the one-metre-high cut- cur at intervals in this area were orig­ banks. The water in August is at the inally caused by past dredging oper­ low to intermediate stage and therefore ations which altered the river's course. shallow enough for wading when lining The view is less confined on the Klon­ is necessary. The breached North dike River, with the foothills of the Fork power dam, located eight kilo­ Ogilvie Mountains in sight from almost metres above the mouth of the North any point on the water. The river passes Klondike, is the only portage neces­ through high hills, wide valley sec­ sary. A lightly loaded canoe may be tions and the mounds of tailings. The able to run this section during higher Klondike Highway detracts from the surrounding landscape as it follows the river's course to Dawson. Good camp­ sites are available if the need arises; however, the distance from the mouth of the North Klondike River to Daw­ son may be completed in one day. 77

12 Bell and Porcupine rivers 78

Bell and Porcupine rivers Access and egress Maps required

Summit Lake to Fort Yukon Access to Summit Lake may be gained (N.T.S. 1:250,000 scale) (See map, page 10) by float plane or by canoe. The canoe 116 P Bell River route is very difficult, going from the 116 O Old Crow Length Mackenzie Delta, up the Rat River into 116 N Old Crow 18 days/188 kilometres MacDougall Pass. Egress may take no portages place at Old Crow or at Fort Yukon, U.S. Army Map Service series Q501 Alaska, where air services connect 1:250,000 scale Date of survey to other northern centres. NQ7 8-1 Coleen, Alaska July 1971 NQ7 8-5 Black River, Alaska NQ5 6-8 Fort Yukon, Alaska Note: Water levels in August are suf­ ficiently low to make travel by canoe difficult in the upper reaches of the Bell and Little Bell rivers. The best water levels are encountered from the middle of June through July. Water levels may also vary one to two metres overnight, depending on rainfall in the mountains. 79

About the river The canoe trip

Geography Fauna Summit Lake and Creek to the The entire route is north of the Arctic In the more southerly Yukon Flats area, Little Bell River Circle, skirting the northern treeline. the timber and wildlife are more abun­ Summit Lake is surrounded by moun­ This river system rises in the Richard­ dant. In late summer and fall migrating tains that can be easily hiked and son Mountains at Summit Lake in the caribou cross the Bell and Porcupine provide excellent views of the Rat River MacDougall Pass and empties into the rivers on their way south to their win­ Valley, the entire MacDougall Pass, Yukon River 813 kilometres to the tering grounds. Moose, ducks, and the Little Bell River Valley, and the Ri­ west in Alaska. The terrain changes geese are abundant. chardson Mountains. Mount Russel from the Richardson Mountains to is one of the best viewpoints. The Pass lowlands and tundra in the Eagle River History seems to be an east-west air-route as and Porcupine River areas. Before the surge of Klondikers over several fuel caches can be found along the Pass in 1898-99, the Bell-Porcupine the shore of Summit Lake. The moss Flora route was part of a major Hudson's banks of the lake provide excellent The route lies in the transition zone Bay Company route. This route was campsites; however firewood may be between the tundra and boreal forest used to connect Fort Simpson with scarce. region. Tree growth is limited to the the more remote outposts of Lapierre A creek drains the western end of river banks, with tundra vegetation House on the Bell River, Rampart Summit Lake, running into the Little beyond the banks. Black spruce, willow, House on the Porcupine River, and Bell River. When there is water in it, the poplar, birch and the occasional larch Fort "Youcon" on the Yukon River. width varies from 33 centimetres to line the banks, while scrubby black 1 metre. It is incised three metres spruce and tundra lie beyond. below the valley floor and is heavily overgrown with willow and alder. A portage from Summit Lake to the Little Bell is the alternative to dragging and cutting a route through the creek. 80

Little Bell River The 21-kilometre portion of the Little Bell River is twisting, with undercut banks, snags, sweepers and incised with mud banks six metres high. Small rapids located at the mouth of the river flow over sharp rocks. These may be run at high water and lined during low water. Because of the steepness of the banks, campsites are difficult to locate. A view of the surrounding Richardson Mountains can be seen if the canoeist climbs out of the incised river valley.

The Bell and Little Bell rivers as seen from the Richardson Mountains. 81

Bell River Porcupine River to Old Crow comes larger and the current increases The Bell River is relatively wide with Settlement its speed. Below Lord Creek, the Old a slow, steady current and endless From the mouth of the Bell to the Crow Range and Mount Shaeffer be­ meanders. No problems of navigation mouth of the Driftwood River, the Por­ come visible in the northwest. Old are present at moderate and high water cupine flows slowly and often opens Crow itself is a charming Indian com­ levels. Lapierre House, an old Hud­ in long, straight stretches that resemble munity which is presently undergoing son's Bay Company trading post, is lo­ lakes. There are no major navigational changes in its social and economic cated on the Bell River. Two run­ hazards and the current increases structure. Supplies may be purchased down cabins and a cache are all that through narrows when approaching here, and there are airline connections remain. A few kilometres from the the Driftwood River area. The sur­ to Dawson, Inuvik and Whitehorse. mouth of the Eagle River the famous rounding countryside is flat with broad manhunt for the "Mad Trapper of the expanses of moss and stunted spruce Rat River" came to an end. growth. The shorelines are treed with alder and willow, and the occasional groves of large spruce provide the best campsites. Below the Driftwood River the terrain shows more relief, timber be­ 82

Old Crow to Fort Yukon From Old Crow to Caribou Bar Creek the river meanders and winds between high bluffs, with the Old Crow Range still dominating the view to the north. An excellent cabin and campsite exist on the left limit about 56 kilometres below Old Crow. At Caribou Bar Creek, the river valley narrows and runs through a canyon between 150-metre walls. This marks the beginning of the Upper Ramparts. The Ramparts are the most scenic part of a trip down the Porcupine. The current becomes swift and a few chutes are encoun­ tered. This section lasts for 80 kilo­ metres. Excellent campsites are found throughout. New Rampart House is exception­ ally scenic. The buildings, although collapsing and uninhabitable, are very interesting. Sumaghan Creek enters from a picturesque valley in the north. The mouth of this creek marks the

New Rampart House on the banks of the Porcupine. The creek on the right marks the Yukon-A laska border. 83

Yukon-Alaska border. At Salmon Trout meanders, sloughs, gravel bars and beach. Here also is an excellent River is Old Ramparts. Excellent gray­ severely eroded cutbanks. At high- campsite. Standing near the upper ling fishing in a 120-metre-high canyon water levels short-cuts through sloughs end of the gravel bar and looking can be found 1.5 kilometres up from may save kilometres of paddling. across at the south bank of the river the mouth of this small river. At Red Fort Yukon lies three kilometres one sees three breaks in the spruce, Gate the Upper Ramparts end. From above the junction of the Yukon and the lowest and by far the widest here the surrounding landscape is flat Porcupine rivers. The current in the of which marks the head of the trail. for 12 kilometres with more frequent Yukon is too strong to paddle against Willows in this spruce gap and a islands. Canyon Village, eight kilo­ and therefore a "backdoor" to Fort lowering in the height of the cutbank metres below Red Gate, is a fairly Yukon is recommended. Here is an mark the obvious spot where the recent, but abandoned, native com­ excerpt from a previous report on this Porcupine sometimes spills over. munity. route. The trail starts in the spruce just The Lower Ramparts are far less "Fort Yukon sits on Hospital Lake, a above the willows. Piles of drift spectacular than the upper section. U-shaped slough, once an outlet for wood along it indicate where the The current here is slow and the the Porcupine and still overflowed water has overflowed, and lead one canyon walls are about 100 metres by the Porcupine in particularly high to the marshy N.E. end of Hospital high. This marks the last immediate spring floods. An old portage trail Lake. Canoes and gear can be left at relief before entering the flats. 300 yards long leads from the N.E. a dock beside the airstrip whence a The Porcupine, below Lower Ram­ tip of Hospital Lake to the Porcupine truck can take them into town". parts, enters the flats which are part River. The trick is to find the start - Eric W. Morse, "The Rat-Bell- of the more extensive Yukon River Flats. of this portage on the Porcupine McDougall Canoe Trip", Arctic This section extends for roughly 190 side. Near the upper end of Home­ Circular, 1968 kilometres and is characterized by brew Island (from which one can look across at the radar installations of Fort Yukon) is a long gravel 84 Further reading

Bennett, J. Five Hundred Miles on Keele, Joseph. Report on the Ross, Stewart, Elihu. Down the Mackenzie Canadian Wilderness Waters. Type­ Pelly and Gravel Rivers. Government of and Up the Yukon in 1906. Bell and script in Yukon Regional Library, Canada, Ottawa, 1910. Cockburn, Toronto, 1913. Whitehorse, Y.T. 5 leaves. Morse, Eric W. "The Rat-Bell-McDou- Wood, G. H. "Squaws along the Yukon" Burton, Pierre. Klondike, the Last Great gall Pass Canoe Trip", Arctic Circular, National Geographic Magazine, Vol. Gold Rush, 1896-1899. McClelland Vol. 17, No. 3-5, 1968. 112, No. 8, August 1957, pp. 245-265. and Stewart, Toronto 1972. Ogilvie, William. Exploratory Survey of Campbell, R. B. "The Discovery and the Yukon, Department of the Interior, Exploration of the Pelly (Yukon) River", Ottawa, 1889. North. Vol. 14, No. 4, 1967, pp. 9-1 5. Ogilvie, William. Early Days in the Dawson, G. M. Exploration of the Yukon and the Story of its Gold Finds. Yukon, Northwest Territories and Thorburn and Abbot, Ottawa, 1913. Adjacent British Columbia, Geological Survey of Canada, Ottawa, 1887. Pike, Warburton. Through the Subarctic Forest, Edward Arnold, Ferrell, E. "Down the Gold Rush River", London, 1896. Alaska Sportsman, Vol. 28, No. 7, July 1962, pp. 22-25, or Beaver, Outfit 295, Raudenbush, M. "Down the Yukon by Autumn 1964, pp. 48-54. Canoe", Alaska Sportsman, Vol. 30, No. 8, August, 1964, pp. 40-43.

Western Canada

Areas covered by reports in the Wild Rivers series are outlined on the map. Shaded area is covered by this report.

Now available in the series: A Iberta Saskatchewan Quebec North Shore

Soon to be available: Central British Columbia Northwest Mountains The Barrenlands The James Bay/Hudson Bay Region Southwestern Quebec and Eastern Ontario Labrador and Newfoundland