Once popular only among a small band of maverick growers taking their inspiration from the Rhône Valley, is now establishing itself as a California favourite. Will it last, asks NORM ROBY

yrah may be a cute curiosity in their portfolios to meet the anticipated outrageous Rhône Ranger openness to several New World regions, but demand. From a scant 142ha (hectares) new things.” One was to explore unusu- in California it has arrived big- planted to Syrah in 1990, today’s total, al sites, especially those with marginal time. A number of artisan win- after explosive growth in the 1990s, is climates. Cohn produces Syrah from S the high altitude Rockpile Vineyard in eries – Jaffurs, Palmeri, Saxum, Copain, just short of 7,700ha. But is it in danger L’Aventure, JC Cellars, Adelaida, Do- of going the same way as Merlot, and be- Sonoma, as well as from the steep Stage- maine Alfred, Montemaggiore and Terre ing overplanted, in areas where it has no coach Vineyard in Oakville, and the Rouge – are fl irting with cult wine status. right to be? And will consumers contin- windy Ventana Vineyard in Monterey. Each produces Syrah in garagiste quan- ue to buy up all the Syrah being made? tity, and new vintages quickly sell out, To draw any conclusions as to Syrah’s Schools of thought either on a futures basis or to a mailing likely progress, we have to look at what One certainty today is that California list clientele. At least another two dozen jump-started it. The nursery programme Syrah is going in several directions. wineries have positioned themselves as at Tablas Creek (the Beaucastel connec- One vocal group of winemakers insists Syrah specialists while others are mak- tion) fi rst encouraged the importation of high elevation mountain vineyards and ing it their fl agship wine. Syrah clones and focused attention on steep hillsides are best for Syrah. Oth- Twenty-fi ve years ago, Syrah was pro- rootstock selection. Then winemakers ers follow the cold-climate school and duced by three or four California wineries learned how to deal with Syrah’s ten- are convinced Syrah responds favorably whose winemakers – the original Rhône dency to grow like the proverbial weed. to windy, cold, marginal conditions that Rangers – probably consumed most of Lise Ciolino says of her breathtaking extend the growing season. A few insist the production during group discussions. Montemaggiore Dry Creek Valley Syrah, that poor soils severely restricting yields Today, well over 400 wineries produce “We use every trick in the book to keep are the key. it. The surge in consumer interest has its growth in check, ranging from inten- Coastal Santa Barbara, with its well- industry analysts predicting that Syrah sive planting, to cane pruning to defi cit drained sandy soils and breezy val- will follow as the next trendy irrigation.” Her steep hillside vineyards leys running east to west was tested red. While that remains to be played out, also restrict yields. for Rhône varieties by Ojai Vineyard, there is no denying that the major wine Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars offers another Qupé and Zaca Mesa Vineyards. Based companies – Constellation, Gallo, Ken- theory. “In the 1990s, a number of the on their made in the 1980s, it dall-Jackson, Diageo – have seriously right people with a passion for Syrah passed with fl ying colors. Winemaker- ratcheted up production of Syrah within joined in and they shared that slightly owner Craig Jaffurs, a Syrah specialist, C A L I F O R N I A 2 0 0 7 D E C A N T E R | 2 3 Left: Syrah budwood from Napa Valley.

and Truchard came along to make fi ne Carneros Syrah. MacRostie Winery is now making an impeccable Syrah from Wildcat Mountain Vineyard in the Carne- ros. Here, the vines dig into the sparse volcanic soils and stand fi rm against the winds. This is Carneros at its coolest. The most signifi cant, recent addition to Carneros Syrah comes from Buena Vista. It offers two noteworthy Syrahs: a juicy, complex Carneros and a limited, fantas- tic Ramal Vineyard. The fi rst dynamic cool-climate Syrahs from the Russian River Valley were from Dehlinger and later from Arrowood. The style here, as typifi ed by Arrowood’s 2002, displays the smoked meat, gamey side with deep plum fruit. With its Cher- ry Ridge Vineyard, Dutton Goldfi eld has found the desirable “warm place in a cool region which is just temperate enough to ripen Syrah.” With ocean breezes coming in from Morro Bay, Edna Valley rarely experi- ences temperatures over 32˚C, which makes it cooler than nearby Santa Bar- bara. In the early 1990s, John Alban of Alban Vineyards located Syrah on hilly terrain compromising Edna Valley’s dis- tinctly poor, chalky soils. As Alban’s neighbour Terry Speizer of Domaine Alfred explains, Edna Valley is “a clas- sic category 1 (the coolest) region and therefore we are on the precipitous edge of being able to ripen our Syrah fruit.” For those willing to risk it, the chalky soils, frequent winds, and cool days of Edna Valley have so far resulted in rich, ‘Twenty-fi ve years ago, Syrah was produced by three or four California wineries whose winemakers, the original , probably consumed most of the production during group discussions’ describes classic Santa Barbara Syrah late. With Estate vineyards on Purisima compressed and vibrant Syrahs. Others as “tannic, dark and fruit-driven, with a Mountain, Beckmen Vineyards is a name making good Edna Valley Syrahs are To- nice pinch of spice on the fi nish. It has a to watch closely. Other promising winer- losa, Laetitia, Baileyana, Bishop’s Peak, lower pH (higher acid) than Syrah from ies include Bridlewood Estate, Lincourt, and Kynsi. Napa or Paso, so it is fresher, more grip- Silver Wines, and Taz Vineyards. Foley, ping, and less soft.” He concludes, “We Melville and Ojai are exploring Syrahs Seaside Attraction have hardly begun to see what we can do from the County’s ultimate cool area, The Sonoma Coast is the latest cool-cli- with Syrah in Santa Barbara.” Santa Rita Hills. mate region, with many new vineyards Over recent vintages Qupé and Ojai located not far from the Pacifi c. One are continuing their magic touch with One cool customer is Peay Vineyards in Annapolis which Syrah. Foxen is a favorite among locals, Carneros, the cool region in Southern makes excellent Syrah. Owner Andy Fess Parker Reserve Syrah is usually Napa and Sonoma assumed to be ide- Peay says: “We can grow Syrah here – well above the ordinary and Zaca Mesa’s al for Pinot Noir, was fi rst planted to where we barely get our Pinot and Char- Black Bear Block has been brilliant of Syrah by Cline Cellars. Later, Havens donnay ripe. We planted Syrah because 2 4 | D E C A N T E R C A L I F O R N I A 2 0 0 7 we want to make elegant wines with 2003 Edmunds St. John Syrah from two complexity.” hilltop vineyards in El Dorado County. Working with Syrah from what he Similarly intriguing notes of spice, meat calls “the fi erce Sonoma Coast”, John and herbs are found in the Syrah of new- Drady of Sonoma Coast Vineyards also comer CG DiArie. Its 2004 Foothills knows the area well. “Harvest sugars Southern Exposure Syrah is a gem, as is of 23˚ brix for mature Syrah are typi- its Syrah from the Fair Play appellation. cal.” He adds: “Elements of Sonoma Sobon Estate, Cedarville, Sierra Vista Coast Syrah remind us of wines from the and Montevina also offer attractive Foot- northern Rhône, yet it has a fullness and hills Syrah. elegance that says California.” Syrah from high-altitude vineyards After 30 years of winemaking for oth- could be the wine to put Lake County ers, Kerry Damskey established Palmeri on the map. For years, winemaker Jed to produce only mountain-grown wines. Steele toiled alone here, but now he has With Syrah, he cites three advantages of good company. Sitting 590m above the mountain soils: they are more limit- Clear Lake is Brassfi eld Estate Winery; ing, better drained, and the sites tend to its 2003 High Valley Syrah offers tones be cooler, leading to ripe fruit thanks to of bright fruit. Jade Mountain has a slower maturation. Being above the fog lovely 2004 Syrah from Snows Lake line, these sites provide more sunlight in Vineyard, a superbly tended vineyard at cool years and more hang time in warmer 656m. Tiny Copain Cellars and Obsid- years. ian have discovered Lake County Syrah, Syrahs from diverse mountain vine- so expect to see more wineries looking yards such as Kuleto Estate, Viader, into it. Pride Mountain and newcomers Bugay Wines & Vineyards in the North Coast, Mind the ‘gap’ and Chalone and Marr Cellars elsewhere With about 1,050ha planted to Syrah, display an intensity, power and balance Paso Robles (see right) accounts for a that strongly supports mountainside ad- signifi cant 15% of California’s total. As vocates. for producers, there are 121 members in In 1991, pioneer Bill Easton of Terre the regional association and a recent sur- Rouge planted Syrah on slopes as high vey indicated that 82 of them produce a as 984m, the highest planted eleva- Syrah. This is a warm climate, and there tion in the Sierra Foothills of Amador is no shortage of ultra-ripe Syrah made County. This is capable of capturing here. But the real story is the growing white pepper, violets, olives and smoky number of nicely balanced Syrahs made tones. These attributes, associated with here. One sub-region preferred by many the northern Rhône, are displayed in the is around Templeton. Syrah vineyards

A strip of California Syrah stands out in stark contrast to its arid surrounds. in this location enjoy a slight cooling in- fl uence from a breach in the coastal range known as the ‘Templeton Gap’. A few vineyards have carved out Syrah vineyards on hillsides at elevations of 490m or more. Then there is soil. For Paso Syrah, Justin Smith of Saxum explains, “Our soils are the magic bullet. The calcium and lime help retain great natural acidities, and the clay helps to hold the rain we get in winter and spring well into the growing season.” These same soils won over the Perrin and Haas partnership of Tablas Creek who wanted to match the climate and high pH soils of Beaucastel in the southern Rhône. Saxum and L’Aventure winery are push- ing a trend that favours the cuvee concept for Paso Syrah. Stephan Asseo, a French- man, established L’Aventure on the West- side. His Estate Cuvée – Syrah with a big dollop of Cabernet – is a simply amazing wine for its depth. Another sensational blend is the 2004 Savant, a 50/50 mix of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon made by Justin Vineyards. Other Paso Robles residents that deserve full attention are the ever-reliable Wild Horse Vineyards and J Lohr, along with newcomers Hug Cellars, Halter Ranch, and Robert Hall Winery.

Left: no longer a small player, Syrah has been a huge success story in California

WHY PASO ROBLES RULES by Linda Murphy

Syrah fl ourishes throughout Califor- Domaine Marcoux and Domaine du la er, whose 90-point scores for wines pro- nia, yet nowhere in the state does it con- Janasse among the 3000 participants. duced by the likes of Adelaida, Garretson, nect with France’s Rhône Valley more Paso Robles has limestone, a soil com- L’Aventure, Linne Calodo, Saxum, Villa promisingly than it does in Paso Robles. ponent so common in the Rhône Valley Creek, and the Perrin-Haas joint venture As evidence, the French themselves are yet so rare in California. When deposits Tablas Creek, have put Rhône on in ‘Paso’ making Rhône-style wines in of this calcareous soil are found, there’s a pedestal that Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvi- this Central Coast ranching region best a dash to put grapevines into it that’s as gnon and haven’t yet climbed. known for majestic oaks and cowpokes. mad as the Gold Rush of 1849. In 2005, Parker wrote that ‘a decade Today, vine roots are as common as And plant they have in Paso, an appel- from now, the top viticultural areas of Santa cowboy boots. Several vineyards are lation dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon Barbara, Santa Rita Hills, and the limestone planted to Syrah, , Mourve- (nearly 2,749ha of it), yet which has hillsides west of Paso Robles will be as dre, Cinsault, , , seen Syrah hectarage zoom from 158ha well-known as the glamorous vineyards of and other clones from the in 1998 to 703ha in 2006, according to Napa Valley.’ Even if one’s palate isn’t in nursery established in Paso Robles by the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance. synch with Parker’s, the boost he’s given the Perrins of Château de Beaucastel in The number of bonded PRWCA winer- Paso Robles as a “Rhône of the West” is un- Châteauneuf-du-Pape and its American ies doubled from 50 in 2000 to more than deniable. importer, Robert Haas. 100, and many of the newcomers have put In 1975, Gary Eberle, owner/winemaker For 15 years, Paso Roblans have their eggs in the Rhône baseket; of Eberle Winery, was the fi rst to plant Syrah staged Hospice du Rhone, a wackily it’s the rare winery that doesn’t produce in Paso Robles, using cuttings from UC Da- serious weekend of tastings, dinners at least one wine containing Syrah. vis that reportedly came from Chapoutier in and bowling, most recently featuring More recent authentication has come Hermitage. Eberle transplanted them on his Rhône representatives Le Vieu Donjon, from an outside source, Robert Park- east-side Estrella River property and shared

2 6 | D E C A N T E R C A L I F O R N I A 2 0 0 7 cuttings with other producers. But it wines with power and weight, whereas Linda’s Paso Robles Picks was the arrival of Tablas Creek Vineyard the cooler areas, like the Templeton Gap, in 1989 that gave Paso Robles instant show more Côte Rotie style, more per- L’Aventure, Optimus 2004 ***** legitimacy as a maker of Syrah and its fumed with great elegance and fi nesse.” Predominantly Syrah, plus Cabernet Rhône-varietal cousins. Asseo also makes PharoahMoans, a Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Bacon Haas and the Perrins planted Beaucas- new Syrah that’s set Paso pricing on its fat and graphite aromas, lively black tel clones of Syrah, Grenache, Mourve- ear, at $570 for a six-bottle, pyramid fruit, Cabernet-like tannins, Rhône- dre, Counoise, Viognier, Marsanne, shaped case. The 2005 is powerful and like spice. Up to 2014. Roussanne and on the rich, with 14.8% alcohol, yet like the west side of the Paso Robles appella- Flying Wallendas at their best, it keeps Tablas Creek, Esprit de Beaucastel tion, at an average elevation of 457m, its balance and freshness. It also sold out 2004 ***** and 18km from the Pacifi c Ocean. They soon after release, price being no object. Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and Cou- found the clay soils mixed with high-pH, Asseo’s partners in PharoahMoans are noise meld seamlessly in this juicy yet calcium-rich limestone, the warm sum- Bryan Ogden of the eponymous restau- structured beauty, laced with black mer days and cool evening breezes to rant in Las Vegas, and John Schwartz, pepper and tar. Up to 2015. be a close mirror of the conditions in the owner of Amuse Bouche Winery in Napa southern Rhône. Valley. “Syrah is entering the high-end Garretson, The Aisling 2004 **** Bordeaux native Stephan Asseo was market and a number of California pro- Scents of meat and blueberry. Lush also attracted to the calcareous western ducers are focusing on producing a meat- and supple. 15.2% alcohol moderated hills. His exceptional L’Aventure wines ier, smokier style of Syrah, as made in by crisp acidity and fi rm tannins. Up favour blends of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvi- the northern Rhône,” says Schwartz. to 2010. gnon and Petit Verdot, though his 100% With success in Paso has come con- estate Syrah is a triumph too. troversy over the potential subdivision Justin, Estate Syrah 2004 **** The former proprietor of Domaine de of this 263,000ha American Viticultural Toasty and fi rm, with dark black Courteillac in Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux- Area. One camp, headed by Peachy Can- fruits, subtle black spice and slightly Mers bough Paso Robles land in the yon Winery owner Doug Beckett, asked dusty tannins. Nicely balanced. Up Templeton Gap in 1998, after becoming the Alcohol, Tobacco Tax and Trade Bu- to 2012. “tired of all the regulations in France”. reau (TTB) to create a 72,700ha West- He adds, “if you compare this part of the side sub-appellation within the greater Linne Calodo, Nemesis 2004 **** Central Coast to the Rhône, they have a Paso Robles AVA. Powerful and with enough acidity to similar Mediterranean climate, there is Jerry Lohr, a pioneer who planted handle the intensely ripe black fruit the Châteauneuf Mistral, the same veg- Cabernet in the area in the early 1980s, and chocolate character. 80% Syrah etation and the same trees.” countered on behalf of opposing vint- plus Grenache and Mourvedre. Up to One of the region’s rising-star wine- ners, fi ling petitions to split Paso Robles 2012. makers, Austin Hope of Treana Winery into 11 sub-appellations, each based on and Austin Hope Winery, says Rhône its presumed distinctive microclimate, Saxum, James Berry Vineyard Red varietals thrive here. “There are several soils and history. Wine **** different soils and climates within Paso Justin Baldwin of Justin Vineyards Super-ripe blend of Mourvedre, Syr- Robles that can show different styles of and Winery was one of 21 original sup- ah, Grenache and Counoise. Attrac- the Rhône Valley,” he says. “Some of porters of the Westside plan, but with- tive earthiness, supple tannins and rich our warmer regions can show similari- drew his support, saying it was too large glycerin mouthfeel. Up to 2012. ties to Cornas, much riper and rounder and diverse to have the specifi city of an AVA. He now supports Lohr’s group. Eberle Steinbeck Vineyard 2004 Below: Paso Robles’ limestone soils won “The whole Westside thing is driven *** over Tablas Creek’s winemaking team by marketing,” says Eberle. “There is Earthy yet elegant. Spicy vanillin oak, no basis for its existence as an AVA – no bright berries, mocha and refreshing science, no enology, no history behind acidity. Excellent value. Up to 2012. it. I still believe we’re better off as just

‘Paso Robles’, but some people think a J Lohr, South Ridge 2005 *** sub-AVA will give them an identity. At Bright dark berries and cherries, least the (11-AVA) proposal has a reason rounded tannins and a spicy kick. Easy to exist; it can be defended scientifi cally drinking; fi ne value. Up to 2009. and historically , although I’m not sure it can be defended enologically.” Whichever way the turf battle turns, Paso Robles has dug in its spurs as a wine region with which to be reckoned.