Sustainable production of traditional from local sheep milk, in the Balkans

1. Improved reproductive management of indigenous- sheep-breeds populations 2. Ensuring of traditional cheeses hygiene and quality

www.indisheep-tradicheese.gr INDI-SHEEP TRADI- is a research project under the SEE-ERA.NET PLUS Call for Joint European Research Projects (topicAgroFood, subtopic “Preservation of indigenous species and traditional food products”)

Cheese production represents each geographical area, a fact well recognized via established special labels of origin. Consumers recognize traditional cheeses for their unique quality characteristics, while they ask for certification of their hygiene. The objective of this project is to support the local producers in making safe and certified traditional cheeses from indigenous- sheep-breeds milk. This objective could be achieved through the following approaches:

1. Ensuring the supply of milk from indigenous sheep - Rapid improvement of productivity of the indigenous-breed population (Lesvos and Pramenka-Ovcepolian sheep; superovulation, semen and embryo cryopreservation). - Application of natural/alternative methods for the control of estrus and increase of fecundity (ram-effect/light manipulation/flushing), based on the breed's reproductive profile (Pramenka, Lika and Sjenicka strains).

2. Ensuring the hygiene and underscoring the qualitative superiority of traditional cheeses - Evaluation of raw milk quality, including physical and chemical analysis and microbiological examination at different stages of lactation and in different regions will be performed - Evaluation of cheese quality, including biochemical analysis (chemical characteristics during ripening), microbiological examination (effect of milk pasteurization on microbial evolution, composition of NSLAB during ripening, evolution of pathogens), and organoleptic evaluation will be performed. The possible effect of stage of lactation, geographical location (climate, pastures) and differences in production process on the quality of milk and cheese will be studied.

3. Development of a data base management system for the Lesvos sheep breed Populations, threats, description of the different production systems (emphasis on health, housing, feeding, appropriate behaviour) are recorded and analysed.

Four sheep breeds or breed strains, indigenous in the Balkans and four traditional cheeses usually produced from the milk of these breeds are under study. 1 Lesvos breed, a fat tailed, mixed-wool type sheep breed, has been produced on the Greek island of Lesvos, probably by crossbreeding local sheep with Chios-breed or fat tailed sheep from Asia Minor. It is reared mainly on Lesvos and Limnos islands, but also in other regions of , both in the mainland and the Aegean islands, usually in extensively bred flocks. It is well adapted to the local climate conditions and the poor mountainous pastures. The total purebred sheep population amounts to about 300.000 animals. It is a medium sized breed, having an average body weight of 50.0Kg (ewes) to 66.9Kg (rams) and an average withers height of 60 (55-65) cm (ewes) to 65 (60-70) cm (rams). Colouring varies greatly; Lesvos sheep are either black or red-brown or white with small or big (black, brown or reddish) spots around the eyes, the ears and the nose and on the legs. Most rams and some ewes are horned. Ewe-lambs can be first bred at the age of 9-10 months. Prolificacy is 1.10 - 1.25 lambs/ewe. The lambs are usually weaned at 45-50 days.

2 The average tradable milk yield of controlled flocks (16.698 ewes) is 175 kg (in 185 days), but there are flocks with an average milk yield of 200-280 kg / ewe / milking period. About 80% of the milk produced is used for cheese making (Ladotyri Mytilinis, PDO, Mytilinis PDO, Mytilinis, PDO). Almost 80% of the sheep are kept in the northwestern part of the island in flocks of 100-150 animals. Most of the sheds are simply structured, called 'madria', in a 5-10 km distance from the nearest urban area. Sheep are grazing in mountainous pastures or under the olive trees while concentrated feeds are provided in most flocks all over the year.

The major threats for Lesvos-sheep breeding are: the high cost of feed staff, the low level of modernization (milking animals with hands), the overgrazing of the pastures, the difficulties to access the market (lack of infrastructures) and the lack of information and training strategy. On the other hand, Lesvos breed has a high resistance against parasitic and infectious diseases, while the unique flora in pastures and the traditional knowledge of the farmers result in high quality dairy products. Ladotyri Mytilinis is a light yellow, salted hard cheese with a strong flavour, produced traditionally in the island of Lesvos, Greece. The distinguishing characteristic of “ladotyri” is that after an initial ripening period of 30 days, it is covered with for the rest of the ripening (90 days in total); then, it is aged and stored in olive oil. It is made with ewe's milk or a combination of ewe's and goat's (maximum 30%) raw milk at home or, nowadays, pasteurized in dairies. Traditionally, the cheese is made on the farm using raw milk originating from the farm with traditional techniques and methods. 3 Pramenka sheep

It is well known that peaty sheep (long tailed) were present in the Balkan Peninsula during the Neolithic period and that around 3000 BC, the short tailed copper sheep were also present in the region.

Pramenka sheep, a breed indigenous in the Western Balkan region, is considered to be a descendent of these two. Sheep's coarse, open fleece hangs in open locks, from which pramenka breed derives the name (pramen=lock ). All pramenka types are frugal and hardy animals, adapted to migratory life which keeps them outside all over the year with poor reserve of supplementary feed. Pramenka sheep strains are late-maturing.

Sheep conformation is harmonious, but they may be rather narrow in the body. The profile of face is straight, sometimes convex among ewes and usually convex among rams. The strains of Pramenka sheep that are under study in this project are Ovcepolian strain, the Pramenka of Lika and Sjenicka strain. Ovcepolian strain The name comes from the Today this strain is present on 2/3 of Ovcepolian plateau, in the eastern the territory and represents 60 % of part of the F.Y.R. of Macedonia. the sheep population of the country. Head pigmentation, full or partial black or brown, is typical of this strain.

An irregularly shaped spot spans from the mouth up to the horn root on both sides of the head. Some animals have irregular white pigmentation known as “kalesha” (pretty). Animals with fully black or dark colour heads also appear, known as “karabasha”. 4 Ovč o belo sirenje The head is tightened and long. Usually this white soft cheese is The snout is always black produced during summer months in pigmented sometimes even in the mountain regions. Traditionally it is interior of the mouth. Horns are made from raw, unpasteurized well developed in rams but sheep milk. Depending on local sometimes can appear individuals tradition, "maja-randering " is used without horns; ewes are always as starter culture. pooled. Legs are strong and well developed, black with white spots Young cheese is immersed in brine and sometimes fully white. from mountain spring water, where it ripens for 3 months, until it The average weight of rams is up to acquires its characteristic flavour, 45 kg and of ewes up to 36 kg. The aroma and taste. wither height is 64.8 cm for rams and 61 cm for ewes. The slight differences in quality are probably associated with differences Ovcepolian sheep have modest in making practice, variability of the production traits, good fertility and natural microflora of milk, the low possibility of twining (5-6%). geographical region of production Wool yield in rams is 1.75 kg and in and the period when it is produced, ewes is 1.22 kg. due to differences in mountain pastures. Lactation period averages 191 days with average milk yield of 72.49 kg; the variation in milk yield is great (38.74 kg- 91.28 kg).

Average milk fats are 5.41%, varying between 4.62 and 6.31%.

5 Pramenka of Lika

Pramenka of LIka has been developed in the mountainous area of Lika and Gorski Kotar. It is the most typical type of Pramenka in Croatia. These sheep are pronouncedly resistant, moderately developed, well built with a strong physical constitution. Ewes have an average weight of 45-55 kg, while rams of 65-75 kg. Usually some have pronounced length rather than body height. The height of the withers in sheep is 62-65 cm, while in rams 67-72 cm. The body ends with a tail which reaches as far as under the ankle joint. The body is covered in open fleece mixed wool, composed of pointed tufts. Rams are horned, sheep are mostly hornless. White is a typical colour. Head is spotty with bigger and smaller black speckles. Milk production during lactation is 120-150 litres. A lamb of 3-4 months reaches a weight of 20-25 kg.

Sir iz mišine, the mountain cheese from the bladder, is made by curdling rich or skimmed sheep's milk. It is produced in Dalmatia, during the summer mountain grazing. It is characterized by specific pleasant smell and moderately salty taste as well as by soft compact dough which becomes harder after some time. Dough of the bladder cheese is from white to light yellow in colour, while the surface is little bit darker. The dough is filled with a few oval irregularly placed holes. The cheeses are irregularly shaped and about 200g in mass. Ripening of the cheese lasts for 40-50 days. Shelf-life of bladder cheese is 4-6 months after production. 6 Sjenicka strain The strain is known by the local nostrils, ear tips and legs. The face names Sjenica ovca / Pestersko, and legs are bare but top-knot may Sjenica / Sjenichka / Sjenichko, be present. The coat tail is long and Peshterska. The strain was hangs below the hocks. The rams improved by crossing local usually have medium long, curled Pramenka sheep with Merino horns and the ewes are polled. The Landschaf. Sheep bred today rams weight 70kg and have a height belong to the long tailed type of of 65 cm; the ewe's height is about Pramenka, the biggest Pramenka 60 cm. In the past, flock size rarely type. The strain is distributed in the exceeded 200 animals; nowadays it western part of Serbia (Peshter, ranges from 10 to 50. They are bred Sjenicka Plateau). The animals are for meat, milk and wool production. white, bearing brown or black Milk production during lactation rings/spots around the eyes and averages 60-80 Kg

Sjenicki cheese is full-fat cheese stored in brine, traditionally produced from raw sheep milk in southern part of Serbia; it is highly appreciated for its unique flavor. It is classified as a soft cheese and requires a ripening period of minimum 5 months for characteristics structure and aroma. The traditional cheese-making technique utilized has almost remained unchanged over the years in line with local practice. As a consequence, variability in aroma/flavour and textural characteristics of cheese is a major feature of this cheese manufactured from raw milk due to heterogeneity in its indigenous microflora depending mainly on the method of production and type of milk. 7 Project COORDINATOR .

HELLENIC AGRICULTURAL ORGANIZATION-DEMETER DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF AGRICULTURAL RESEARCH VETERINARY RESEARCH INSTITUTE, HELLENIC AGRICULTURAL ORGANIZATION “DEMETER” - NAGREF NAGREF Campus -Thermi, PO BOX 60272, 57001 Thermi - Thessaloniki, Greece Dr. Foteini Samartzi ([email protected] ) http://www.vri.gr/ Project PARTNERS . FACULTY OF VETERINARY MEDICINE, UNIVERSITY OF Ss CYRIL & METHODIUS Institute of Reproduction and Biomedicine Lazar Pop Trajkov 5-7, 1000 Skopje, FYR of Macedonia Prof. Toni Dovenski ([email protected] ) http://www.fvm.ukim.edu.mk/

FACULTY OF VETERINARY MEDICINE, SCHOOL OF HEALTH SCIENCES, UNIVERSITY OF THESSALY Department of Physiology Trikalon 224, 43100 Karditsa, Greece Dr. Ekaterini Theodosiadou ([email protected] ) http://www.vet.uth.gr/english/index.html

FACULTY OF VETERINARY MEDICINE, UNIVERSITY OF ZAGREB Clinic of Obstetrics and Reproduction, Department of Hygiene and Technology of Foodstuffs of Animal Origin Heinzelova 55, 10000 Zagreb, Croatia Prof. Juraj Grizelj ([email protected] ) http://www.vef.unizg.hr/

FACULTY OF VETERINARY MEDICINE, UNIVERSITY OF BELGRADE Department of Physiology and Biochemistry, Department of Food Hygiene and Technology Bulevar Oslobodjenja 18, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia Prof. Miodrag Lazarevic ([email protected] ) http://www.vet.bg.ac.rs/

The project is funded by the SEE-ERA.NET PLUS, a Coordination and SupportAction co-funded by the European Community's Programme for International Cooperation under the 7th Framework Programme for Research and Technological Development