Lambs, Calves, and Puppies On the Open Road Cycling in Ireland

by Irene Middleman Thomas Ah, to be sure, it took me a trip to Ireland to learn that I was born a “masher.” John Heagney solemnly shook his head as he told me this and said that he too was a masher. John, the owner of Cycle Holidays Ireland, should know. Operating scores of cycle trips over the past eight years throughout the gloriously beautiful western coast of Ireland, John is an avid cyclist himself and knows a masher when he sees one. “A masher uses the high gears, but pedals slowly,” he explains. Good for the heart, but not for the knees. And so, on my Irish cycling tour, I learned how to spin and use the full range of gears. My knees, after five days of thirty-plus miles cycling per day, were grateful! Travel writers learn early on that ‘charming’ is a no-no John notes. word — overused, trite, etc. Yet that is the first and most As a nervous novice, I had decided to go on an organ - apt word that comes to mind when describing western ized tour with an experienced operator. I really had no idea Ireland. Tiny villages seemingly out of a children’s book, how many miles I would be able to ride every day, and I felt with clay-tile-roofed, yellow, red, green, and blue houses, secure knowing that Cycle Holidays Ireland would accom - narrow twisting lanes, and lace in every window. Pubs filled modate my needs. Our group contained all levels of ability with grandmas and grandpas in peaked hats, teens in and experience, however. Most in the group had taken motorcycle jackets, and every age in between enjoying group cycle tours before, and John says that he has many Celtic fiddles and banjos along with their Guinness. Road repeat customers each year. Obviously, one could travel to signs in Gaelic and people really speaking it. Lambs too Ireland independently, rent a bike, buy some maps, and go adorable to believe and too many to count along the road - for it. With a guided cycling tour, however, tourists bene - ways — all this is Ireland and is touched with the wit and fit from the operator’s expertise and knowledge of the area’s humor we’ve all come to associate with the Irish. To be terrain, culture, history, and cuisine — as well as equip - sure, charming is the word. ment and maintenance. Cyclists leave all those worrisome Western Ireland, indeed, is called the “ Croc Cultura na details behind and can concentrate on enjoying their sight - Heireann ” — the cultural heart of Ireland. Gaelic, the native seeing. John points out that in the four regions of the West , plays a significant role in the living heritage of Ireland, where his company operates, there are many of the region, with its wide range of year-round festivals and sites that date back to 3,000 BCE. “It would be a shame to events (visit www.irelandwest.ie for a full listing). leave so much of Ireland’s heritage undiscovered on your Having never taken a cycling trip before nor even hav - visit to our beautiful country. Our tours are built on the ing measured mileage, I was doubtful about my own abili - principle that you are coming to Ireland to see it up close ties to make the trip. I was pleasantly surprised (and a bit and learn about one of the most unique cultures in proud!) that I did, in fact, measure up to the demands, as Europe.” did all of the others in the group. Cycle Holidays Ireland’s John, whose original and current occupation is dairy flexibility and creativity allows for a wide range of cycling farmer, became enthralled with cycling as a youngster and abilities and tastes. Just about anyone can be accommodat - would ride through the countryside whenever he wasn’t ed “as long as he is willing to accept his own limitations,” busy with milking cows, schoolwork, or hurling (an ancient Irish sport which resembles a mix of motorcycle along so that he can zip around eraries, mentions of historical and cultural lacrosse, baseball, and armed combat, in easily and find stray cyclists or familiarize sidetrips, references, and the general tone to John’s words). A supremely organized and himself with any pending problems. find a good fit for your needs. energetic individual, he manages to handle Another bus remains at the front of the Cycle Holidays Ireland’s tours meander both of his operations magnificently while group to identify junctions and, most impor - along the banks of the Shannon River, take maintaining his keen wit and friendly, easy- tant, lunch stops. Each rider is also equipped in the austere yet majestic beauty of going manner. Looking for the quintessen - with a cell phone from which to call either , and show you the incompara - tial, stereotypical Irishman? You’ll find it in bus. Riders can ride together or alone, as ble serenity of the Burren, with a side trip to John. Oh, and about that dairy farm: John they choose. They all end up, somewhat the remote as a common option. This part of Ireland seems little changed from yesteryear. I was treated with You’re guaranteed to hear Gaelic here among infinite sightings of fluffy white lambs scur - rying across the road to hide in the brambles the 800 inhabitants, who keep the ancient as I approached, their watchful parents off to the side. One sunny afternoon, another Celtic language well preserved and alive. cyclist in my group and I came upon two very cute puppies scampering on our farm will give you the opportunity to milk his miraculously, at the same place, in time for road. We hopped off, played with them, and cows if you like, a rather unusual addition to lunch and for the pub break at the end of the fell for them so hard that for a rather long a cycling tour. day. moment we toyed with taking them back Cycle Holidays Ireland’s average group Ireland has several cycling tour opera - home with us. size is fourteen. A drinking-water-stocked tors, most of them based in the western, I saw the remains of “famine cottages,” bus always travels behind the group, so that sparsely populated, and more rural part of those sad stone dwellings that were home to cyclists can fill up their bottles or catch a lift the country. How to choose? Obviously, the Irish who suffered death or forced emi - at any time — with nary a grimace from price is a big consideration — but also check gration during the tragic famine of the mid- John or his staffers. John also brings a the websites for accurate, well-described itin - 1800s. I also passed storybook homes with

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30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2007 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG lace curtains in the windows, red doors, and sometimes a friendly resident waving hello. I saw tiny hamlets, sweeping purple-blue moors, and vast boglands. I didn’t see a bill - board, a fast-food joint, or bottles and wrap - pers tossed in the road. This country wel - comes you with pride, respect, and gratitude — tourists are embraced and treated as friends. My cycling tour started at Shannon Airport, the country’s biggest, and a very well-run airport. I was astonished that traffic to the United States is so heavy from Shannon that we actually have an immigra - tion office on the premises. That means returning travelers are all checked through before arrival in the States. Our group gathered together on our first day, before doing any cycling, to discuss the routes and how to interpret the daily route maps. Photos on the back of Cycle Historic interlude. The group visits one of many Irish landmarks. Holidays Ireland’s maps depict the junc - up with the group. The support vehicles Castle and Folk Park, the country’s most tions. Cyclists are encouraged to split up and keep traveling the route all day to maintain complete and authentic medieval castle and spread out as much as possible so that those contact. recreation of nineteenth-century rural who want to explore small byroads will feel The first day of the company’s tour is Ireland. After the quite enjoyable medieval free to do so, and won’t feel stressed to keep spent at the fifteenth-century Bunratty castle banquet, some might choose to hit the

ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2007 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG 31 pubs in Bunratty village afterward. Every of the river Shannon to the final destination it out and make peat for fuel. Fluffy black- evening, one of the support vehicles is of . Day three takes cyclists to my faced Scottish sheep and sleek cows occu - always on call to ferry members of the group favorite place, Connemara, where they trans - pied the fields and rocky slope sides all back to their accommodations whenever fer through on the way to Maam around. I felt so far from my everyday life. they are ready to turn in for the evening. Cross. The route passes through the village I’ve never enjoyed cycling as much as I did Staffers work in the evenings making any of Leenaun, , and the Inagh here. necessary adjustments or repairs to the Valley, with the Maunturk mountains on This beautiful area in northwest bikes. the left and the Twelve Pins on the right. Ireland, replete with cliffs and coastline, What’s it like cycling with John The evening is spent in the town of . mist-shrouded pastureland, and looming Heagney’s groups in Ireland? You won’t be As I mentioned, remote craggy mountains, was one of the hardest hit in the pressured to ride like Lance Armstrong, and Connemara felt special to me. While cycling disastrous potato famine of the 1800s. Many you won’t be irritated by others coming up down a country lane there, I heard a splash, thousands from Connemara fled to North on your heels (or spokes). You’ll have the quickly followed by several others. Foot-long America, Australia, and other far-flung parts choice of cycling between about twenty to salmon were leaping from the lake at my of the world. To this day, mountainsides fifty miles a day. I loved the solitude and side. They seemed to be enjoying the appear to have lumps all over them — those peace of cycling alone in a foreign country warmth of the coral-orange sunset dappling lumps are actually from the blight-affected and found it quite thrilling. It was lovely to the lake’s surface and tipping the summits of potatoes that were never dug up a century enjoy being alone during the morning and the Twelve Pins, the majestic mountains of and a half ago. Many pre-famine cottage afternoon, but to join up with the group for this legendary coastal region. Filigreed deep ruins are still around, haunting in their sim - conviviality at meals. green ferns and pumpkin-hued tiny fungus - plicity and desolation. Indeed, in Day two takes cyclists out on a transfer es dotted the ground, and lush rhododen - Connemara, mentions of the famine are still through Limerick to the village of Killaloe, drons and enormous wild fuschia bushes part of conversation — the devastating where they can decide upon a fifty-five-mile threatened to block the view surrounding impact is so much a part of the collective or thirty-three-mile route. The day’s longer me. Later I saw turf cutting being done as it memory of all whose ancestors managed to route passes through the Clare countryside, was in ancient times. That’s the process of survive. The majestic beauty of this region whereas the shorter route follows the course cutting the peat bog’s turf into blocks to dry lives on, and thousands stayed or emigrated

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2007 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG here, entranced by the wilderness, the mys - five minutes. This nine-by-two-mile island is lined by flowering bushes and stone cottages tery, the wit and exuberance of its residents, mostly made up of limestone rock and small and then onto long, wide roads fronting the and the enchanting landscapes that go on fields, surrounded by short stone walls. sea. Continuing on we reached an ancient forever. You’re guaranteed to hear Gaelic here cemetery with Irish crosses — Inis Mor was The next day is a rest day, usually spent among the 800 inhabitants, who keep the an important center for early Irish in the Aran Islands, but some opt for a day ancient Celtic language well preserved and Christianity. We also visited a delightful in Galway to shop and have a more urban alive. Inis Mor has four perfectly preserved grouping of pubs, cafes, and not-so-touristy experience. The Aran Islands are a must for Celtic stone forts, including the triple-walled shops. The island is considered the birth - cyclists, if not for all visitors to Ireland. clifftop fort of Dun Aonghas (dating from place of the renowned Aran sweater, first These three islands (Inis Mor, , 2,000 BCE), which we reached in about used by the island’s fishermen. Each family and ) are reached by ferry. The trip thirty minutes on our bikes from the ferry had its own design knitted into their to the largest, Inis Mor, takes about thirty- landing. We rode down tiny curving lanes sweaters. Visit the museum and market in

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ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2007 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG 33 Nuts & Bolts: Cycle Holidays, Ireland

Contact: tures in the fifties and it was historical sites, Irish Tourist clothing to get you through Cycle Holidays Ireland rather nippy in the mornings. Board-approved accommoda - the week without doing laun - www.cycleholidaysireland.com, tions (mostly in hotels — some dry. Most cyclists bring gloves, [email protected], Price: with spas and jacuzzis, some and hydration packs are very 001 353 878 321 200. Euro 1,250 per person, Euro luxury B&Bs). useful. Bicycling shoes are not 1,450 single supplement. For required — I did fine with my When: more information about Cycle Not included: usual running shoes, but good Cycle Holidays Ireland’s first Ireland Holidays, visit International airfare, lunches, cycling socks are necessary. 2007 tour will be May 26 www.cycleholidaysireland.com tips, and incidental purchases. Don’t forget sunblock and sun - through June 1. Its last will be or call 011 353 878 321 200. glasses. For evenings, comfort - September 15 through 22. What to bring: able sport attire is fine — no Included: A United States passport is dressy events are scheduled. Climate: Airport transfers, daily luggage required to enter Ireland. For Summer temperatures gener - transfer, breakfast, dinner, fruit cycling tours, some people pre - Other resources: ally range from sixty to seven - and energy bars, drinking fer to bring their own bicycle www.shannonregiontourism. ty degrees Fahrenheit, but water, cell phone equipped seat and pedals. All are ie/cycling is a good place to bring long pants and a light - with GPS, new Trek 7.5 (ultra encouraged to bring a small start from which you can also weight jacket just in case. Rain lightweight) twenty-one-speed backpack (rack bags will be access cycling information is common, although it’s usual - bikes fitted with suspension provided as well) cycling about other regions of Ireland. ly light. When I went in late forks and seat posts, bike hel - shorts, quick-drying cycling May, we actually had tempera mets, maps, ferry transfers to shirts, and a lightweight water - Aran Islands, access to several proof jacket. Bring enough

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST MARCH 2007 ADVENTURECYCLING .ORG the town for more information and lovely was one of the first in Ireland and is still in Lisdoonvarna after a spectacular day of products for sale. amazingly well preserved. Over seventy cycling along the Atlantic coastline with Th next day’s ride goes south of Galway examples of megalithic tombs exist to this incredible views of Galway Bay and the Aran to the village of , where the expedi - day, some of which have been excavated. Islands. tion on the Burren begins. The Burren’s Those who opt to do so can visit Dunguaire Finally, the last day of the cycling tour limestone lunarlike geology, as well as its Castle and Poulnabrone, a 5,000-year-old takes participants to the incomparable 800- fauna, flora, caves, and archeology are unique tomb, one of the oldest remaining human- foot Cliffs of Moher, Ireland’s most visited in Europe. This prehistoric settlement area made structures in Ireland. The day ends up tourist site. These are the tallest vertical cliffs in Europe, towering emerald green over the blue, white-capped Atlantic. It’s a site (and a sight!) you won’t ever forget. When your cycling tour ends, ‘tis sure you won’t want to say Slan leat (goodbye) to this land of Cead mile failte (100,000 wel - comes). You’ll be forever grateful that you got to experience it up close and personal while cycling. There’s no place better than Ireland to do that. Oh, and by the way, upon my return to the United States, I bought a new bike, just like the ones John had for us. After all, I didn’t want to “mash” any longer!

Irene Middleman Thomas is a Colorado-based writer and cyclist who finally upgraded from her circa 1964 second-hand three-speed to a new twenty-one-speed Tasting Ireland. A well-deserved stop for refreshments at one of Ireland’s local breweries. hybrid. It’s a whole new world!

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