Cycling , & the AranIslands —WesternIreland

Connemara is the name that is given to the area in e 300 square kilometres that make up the Burren county which lies in southwestern region are located to the south of Galway in the between the and Lough Corrib in northwest corner of . It is a region the east. It is a beautiful and at times desolate area renowned for its wild flowers, endless amounts of filled with coves, cliffs, loughs (lakes), peat bogs and limestone rock and beautiful vistas, which on a clear speakers, call the largest island, , home. quiet moorland. It is home to Connemara National day include the Aran Islands. In fact, at times you’ll e islands have a dual personality as they are at Park and e , a small mountain range see nothing but rock and the sea. ‘Not to be missed’ once bleak, moody and desolate as well as being ro - that can be climbed in a day by the supremely fit. in the Burren area are the Cliffs of Moher with its mantic and utterly gorgeous. Limestone rock is ere are numerous pretty, small villages and the high bird concentration and spectacular vistas. everywhere, feedstock for the endless walls criss - gorgeous to visit. Cycling the quiet crossing every which way and the ruins of old forts, e Aran Islands are located in the mouth of Gal - especially the famous, Dun Aengus. e islands are back roads, especially along the coast, is lovely but way Bay a short ferry ride away from to avoid any of the larger roads with the ridiculous and almost devoid of vegetation but some of the best the north and a slightly longer and more exposed bird life outside of the tropics appears here. Horse very high speed limits. ese are great roads for ferry ride away from in the south. ey con - would be racing car drivers! Pubs are to be found in and buggy carts out number cars and the islands sist of three islands - , and Inish - make a fine cycling destination. every small town and the Irish brand of hospitality more. About 800 people, many of whom are Irish is ever present.

1 2 HIIGHLIIGHTS Suggested Itinerary- Overview Treat yourself to an expensive lunch in wonderful sur - • Beautiful shoreline and rocky hills as you (with details to follow) roundings at the Cashel House Hotel. cycle into the Burren region Day 1 • Views from the Cliffs of Moher Day 6 Arrive in Galway, and take advantage of Galway’s Cycle 80 kms from to Westport including reputation for being Ireland’s most musical town. • Pub in Doolin a 14 km side trip on the beautiful and aptly named Sky Road. Take time to visit Connemara Park and • Quiet, back roads of the Aran islands Day 2 Kylemore Abbey. e road north of takes Pick up bikes and panniers in Galway. Cycle 51 • Gorgeous bike ride on the R341 espe - you through gorgeous country with lovely moun - kms to Ballyvaughan with lunch in the seaside cially near Roundstone tain views. town of Kinvarra along the way. Wonderful rocky • Biking Sky Road near Clifden hills announce your arrival in the Burren region. Day 7 • Kylemore Castle and it’s grounds Rest day in Westport or consider a 20 kilometre Day 3 out and back cycle to the area around Croagh • The wind at your back instead of in your Cycle 30 kilometres from Ballyvaughan to Doolin. Patrick. Optional climb of the mountain with an face Add another 14 kilometres to visit the Cliffs of elevation of 704m. Moher. Add 8 kilometres if you are interested in • Gorgeous scenery as you ride from visiting the Aillwee Caves and Raptor Centre. Leenaun to Westport Day 8 Cycle 58 kms from Westport to Cong along the qui - • Day 4 eter west side of Lake Cong. Make sure to ride Take the 90 minute ferry from Doolin to • Village of Cong through the beautiful grounds of Ashford Castle on on Inishmore. Cycle between 15 and 25 kms to the Lough Corrib but also consider spending a night • Grounds of Ashford Castle ruins of Dun Aengus, a 4000 year old cliff fort. there. Either arrange for a pickup in Cong later in Enjoy exploring the back roads to see the extensive • Charming B&B’s and their Irish hospitality the day to return to Galway or spend the night. stone walls all over the island. Check out the Aran • Surprisingly good pub food and delicious sweater market and museum. You could easily spend rhubarb desserts Day 9 another day or two in the Aran Islands. If you are brave and foolhardy and are prepared to • Guinness - for the beer drinkers die then cycle 50 kms to Galway. Any of the roads Day 5 leading into town are dangerous. Smarter people Take the 40 minute morning ferry to Rossaveal. will shuttle back to Galway. Return the bikes on Cycle 75 kms to Clifden by taking the ocean any day but a Sunday. side R341 through the town of Roundstone. TOTAL BIKING DISTANCE 350 kilometres with a shuttle for the final 50 kilo - metres.

LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Varies from very easy to moderate depending on which way the wind is blowing.

3 Citylink and GoBus. GoBus has the advantage of GALWAY offering 14 nonstop departures daily between the Galway is a small university city of about 80,000 airport and Galway for 15 Euros per person. ere people. It has a mild, wet temperate climate but it are washrooms on board. Before you get on you can experience severe windstorms. e week of may have time to run to the terminal to get food solid wind we had while on the west coast was not and drinks OR pick something up on the way out considered to be an anomaly! Galway is nicknamed to the bus. e convenience of the airport is amaz - Ireland’s cultural heart and is known for its many ing though someone told me you needed a PhD to festivals and celebrations. use the car park! Also of note is that there is free e centre of Galway is Eyre Square and streets WiFi on all buses operated by GoBus. Tickets can head off in all directions from there. ere are be purchased with cash on the bus and you do not many hotels and B&B’s in the area and the square need exact change. For more information visit is only a short walk to the bus station. ere are www.gobus.ie or www.citylink.ie/index.php . plenty of pubs and restaurants in the vicinity so Bus Eireann also has bus service from the airport finding a place to eat won’t be a problem. to Galway though you will need to make a con - Teahouse nection at the main bus station in central Dublin. BIKE RENTALS Adult fares are 13.50 Euros and it will take ap - Bike Hire ireland DETAILED ITINERARY proximately four hours for the journey. Visit www.bikehireireland.com www.buseireann.ie/ for more information. Day 1 — Getting to Galway St. augustine Street Getting to Galway from Dublin airport is ex - You could choose the train option though you will Ph: +353 (0) 91 569 888 tremely easy! Aer getting your luggage in Dublin have to get from the airport to the Dublin Heuston Alan, the owner is very helpful and can provide you head straight for the information desk which will train station to catch it. at can be done by tak - with a basic map and extra route ideas. e shop is be in front of you as you exit. ey are very friendly ing a taxi or bus from the airport. e taxi is about open from 9am until 6pm from Monday to Satur - and helpful and will have you on the next bus or 20 Euros. Train fares are more expensive (about 25 day and is conveniently located close to Eyre Square the train depending on which is easiest on the day Euros each) but they take less time. Visit in the centre of Galway. He was able to provide of your arrival. www.irishrail.ie/home/ for timetables and de - handlebar bags and panniers. Better yet he gra - ciously stored our bags for the time we were out. We chose the bus as it was only a 20 minute wait tailed information. Contact him for rates. for the next one. e main bus operators are

4 SleePzone Galway City get from the center of Galway to the right turn off www.sleepzone.ie of the N6 onto the coast road though there are Bothar na mBan some backroads to take to avoid some of the traffic. Ph: +353 (0) 91566996 e initial 6 kilometres of riding is flat and easy but e hostel is a very short walk from Eyre Square. It you do need to pay attention to the traffic. ere can sleep over 200 people and offers self catering are wide shoulders in places, lanes that you can kitchens, free internet, 24 hour reception, luggage share with buses and when all else fails I recom - lockers and safety deposit boxes. Rates are 24-50 mend hopping onto the sidewalk rather than be - Euros depending on the room type. come a speck on someone’s windshield. e coast road that leads you into and Day 2 — Cycling Galway to is prettier than the N6 but traffic is still Ballyvaughan heavy and there are fewer shoulders. In fact, the OVERVIEW OF THE DAY chances of becoming a part of the ever present rock Prety stone house TOTAL DISTANCE wall are very high. Interesting is the fact that, even 51 kms on a mixture of highway and secondary though the road gets narrower and has more blind roads Galway Accommodation spots the speed limit doesn’t go down. Imagine a Park HouSe Hotel road three bicycle lengths wide that has a large num - LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY www.parkhousehotel.ie Physically easy but mentally challenging. It takes a ber of twists and turns and therefore blind spots and Forster Street, eyre Square bit to get used to the traffic and narrow roads where then have a look at the speed limit - 100km per hour. Ph: +353 (0) 91 569219 the speed limit is usually 80-100 kilometres an hour. ey will take away demerit points on your driver’s A well appointed hotel across from the bus station license if you aren’t wearing a seatbelt but speed evi - and only a five minute walk to the bike shop. Prices HIGHLIGHTS Kinvarra is a lovely seaport village and a fine desti - dently is not a concern. e truly wonderful thing is are 160 Euros per night per room. nation for lunch. that the Irish drivers are still very respectful of cy - clists and not once did I hear the squeal of brakes. Galway HarBour Hotel e scenery in the Burren region is desolate and Nonetheless exercise EXTREME caution on these www.harbour.ie rocky but very scenic especially if you are lucky roads. new docks road enough to have the sun shining. Ph: +353 (0)91 569466 e hotel is situated on the waterfront and is a One might be forgiven for looking at a map ahead short walk to Eyre Square. Rates start at approxi - of time and thinking that once one was out of the mately 99 Euros per room depending on the time Galway area, the cycling would be quiet and peace - of year. ful. Unfortunately that is not the case. It is 6 km to amBer lodGe B&B www.amberlodgebb.com 26a College road Ph: +353(0)91 566986 ey are close to Eyre Square and rates are about 79-89 Euros per room depending on the day of the week and the month of the year.

5 Route for Day 2 Other than shopping or drinking in Ballyvaughan Leave the bike shop on St. Augustine’s Road and you can catch a part of the , a sign walk your bike one block up the one way street to posted 45 kilometre (27 miles) hike that starts in Dock Road and turn right. Lahinch and ends in Ballyvaughan. It takes you through desolate looking rocky country, close to Turn le onto Lough Atalia Road. the Cliffs of Moher, with not a tree in sight. It has At the first major intersection turn right onto been roughly 1200 years since the forests have been Dublin Road. (R338) decimated. Continue for about 7.5 kms on the R338 until you If you are a fan of caves then you might want to reach Oranmore. visit the Aillwee Cave, 3 1/2 kilometres from the Ballyvaughan town center. www.aillweecave.ie Kinvarra Continue southwest on Main Street, continuing e two million year old cave was discovered in HylandS Burren Hotel past Dublin Street until you reach Cloch Og( a the 1940’s but wasn’t developed until the seven - www.hylandsburren.com street name)by bearing le at the intersection with ties. It was the refuge of prehistoric Irish bears; Ph: +353 (0) 65 7077037 Maree Road . Follow Cloch Og until you reach the bones and their dens are still visible. If you have e hotel is located in the center of Ballyvaughan N18 and turn right. e distance from Main and never been in a cave and are aching to see one then and rates vary according to the season but are about Dublin Street to the N18 is less than a kilometre. go but otherwise give it a pass. It isn’t that big and 39 Euros per person sharing. the price for an adult is steep for what you get at 17 GreGanS CaStle Hotel Continue on the N18 for 7.5 kms and then turn Euros a head. You can also go to the raptor center www.gregans.ie right at the N67. Continue for almost 10 kilome - as part of your fee (rather an odd combination in Ph: +353 (0)65 7077005 tres to reach Kinvarra. my opinion!) and it has an interesting collection of owls, hawks, falcons and eagles with regular fly - is is a luxury four star property with on site din - Continue on the N67 all the way to Ballyvaughan, ing available. Rates vary according to the season about 19 kms away. ing displays. On its own the raptor center is 8 Euros per adult. and room but start at about 150 Euros per room. B&B’s line the road going into Ballyvaughan so you BALLYVAUGHAN RESTAURANTS shouldn’t have too many problems with any last Ballyvaughan Accommodation Walking the main street will allow you to decide minute accommodation choices unless it’s a busy, spontaneously on where to eat your evening meal. sunny, summer weekend. CaPPaBHaile HouSe O’Brien’s Bar & Restaurant is a popular spot and www.cappabhaile.com we enjoyed the very new Italian restaurant called BALLYVAUGHAN Ph: +353 (0) 65 7077260 l’Arco. Monks Pub and Seafood Restaurant is re - e entrance to Ballyvaughan is nothing short of a e B&B is about a mile away from town and very strip of road that looks like B&B central. It feels putedly a popular spot and enjoys the scenic back - close to the Aillwee Caves. e breakfast is one of drop of . like every second house is in that line of business. the best we had over the course of almost a month We stayed just 1.5 kilometres from the town centre in Ireland. Rates start at approximately 42 Euros at a purpose built B&B (Cappabhaile House) run per person sharing. by a very chatty couple. Rooms were huge, break - fasts were very good and overall the hosts were ex - tremely helpful.

6 Route for Day 3 You will reach the R478. Turn right and follow it a Head northwest on the R479 from the junction few kilometres until you reach the entrance to the with the N67 in the center of Ballyvaughan. Cliffs of Moher. e one way distance from Doolin is about 7 kilometres. You will not need to pay an Stay on the R479 as it hugs the ocean and does a entrance fee and you can lock your bikes just aer few small climbs. About halfway a long there is a you walk pass the entrance. small home advertising tea and scones. It is on the le side of the road as you head to Doolin and as To return, retrace your steps all the way back to there are very few commercial spots with any ad - Doolin. e return is mostly a quick and scenic vertising it will be hard to miss. Open the door and downhill. you’ll be right in the hostess’s kitchen. She’ll brew e Cliffs of Moher are actually in the running for you up a cup of soup, tea or coffee right away and the latest version of the New 7 Wonders of the if it’s been a cooler sort of day you’ll appreciate the World. break. She has been around for years. On a sunny day the Cliffs of Moher are gorgeous. About 25 kms into the trip at the top of a long hill ey rise 214 meters above the Atlantic Ocean and stay right on the R 479 at an intersection and take extend for eight kilometres, beginning just south Ubiquitous sheep it the last 4-5 kilometres into Doolin. ere are a of Doolin. ere are great grassy knolls adjacent number of B&B’s on the way into town. As you ap - to the cliffs, signal towers from the Napoleonic day, Day 3 — Ballyvaughan to Doolin proach Doolin the R479 becomes Rivervale and built to warn of marauding ships, as well as thirty (WITH POSSIBLE SIDE TRIPS TO AILLWEE then Fisher Street. If you continue on Fisher Street thousand sea birds, many of which you can see nest - CAVE AND THE CLIFFS OF MOHER) when it heads right you will reach a lively area of ing into the cliff wall. e Atlantic puffin is the pubs and shops. TOTAL DISTANCE most famous bird one might see but also look for 30 kilometres not including the 7 kms for a return razorbills, choughs and common gulls. trip to the Aillwee Caves and 14 kms for an out and Cliffs of Moher Side Trip back from Doolin to the Cliffs of Moher. Stairs lead you to viewpoints and from there you ROUTE have options, especially in the southern section for LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY To continue to the Cliffs of Moher from Doolin Moderate because of the hills and a constant head - on the quiet back roads, stay on Rivervale (R479) walking for some length along the cliffs. ere are wind; easy to moderate without the headwind. until it becomes Fisher Street. Continue straight sea stacks and a large rock formation called Hag’s past the intersection where Fisher Street turns Head, resembling a women sitting and looking out HIGHLIGHTS to sea. Coast road most of the way with expansive sea right. Carry on along the R479 up a very short but views to the Aran Islands. Desolate, rocky but in - steep grade and take the first right onto a small teresting scenery. Cliffs of Moher. Doolin and the road. e back road will parallel the R478 above it O’Conner Pub for traditional Irish music and oen but will provide you an almost car free alternative singing and dancing. with gorgeous views.

7 Doolin Restaurants the same service for centuries of life on the island. It is not as though once the walls are built that the o’Conner’S PuB ground is particularly fertile as it is hard to imag - www.gusoconnorsdoolin.com ine what one might grow in what little soil you see Fisher Street available. Ph: +353 (0) 65 7074168 It is a welcoming spot with live music and a friendly e Aran Islands are famous for the Aran Sweater, atmosphere. If you’re lucky they’ll be dancing. e a useful water repellent piece of clothing worn by food is pretty good too. the farmers and fisherman. ere is a sweater mar - ket and museum in Kilronan which provides the mC dermott’S PuB complete background and examples of all the clan’s www.mcdermottspubdoolin.com sweater patterns. Each family historically had its Ph: +353 (0) 65 7074328 own carefully guarded pattern and unique combi - ey have traditional Irish music every nation of stitches. e sweaters were one of the night from spring to late autumn. ways of identifying fisherman who Lake landscape eir beef stew is reputed to had drowned and washed up be very good. DOOLIN on shore. Doolin is a pretty little town with brightly coloured houses overlooking fields and the sea. e Day 4 — Doolin to Doolin Cra shop and tearoom is held in high re - Inishmore (the largest gard by many. ere are no shortages of B&B’s or Aran Island) small hotels which are concentrated in a stretch of e Aran Islands are 9 miles off several kilometres. I can heartily recommend Daly the coast of Galway in western Ire - House run by Susan Daly who is a charming a host - land. Inishmore is the largest is - ess with a fine wit. Her family has been in the area land being about 9 miles long but for seven generations so she is able to provide an only 2 miles wide. When you insider’s perspective. She gave us directions for the step off the ferry in Kilronan back route to the Cliffs of Moher and reserved the on Inishmore you will no Doolin ferry for us with the only thought to make doubt feel like you have our stay as easy as possible. Between her and her come to some remote outpost brother next door they can handle 40 customers way off the beaten track. For per night at 76 Euros for two with breakfast. most it will be hard to imagine a life spent living on this rocky Doolin Accommodation island especially since it exudes an air of desolation. It is home Hotel doolin however to 800 mostly Irish www.hoteldoolin.ie speakers on a fulltime basis. Ph: +353 (0) 65 7074111 Rates are 65-85 Euros per person sharing. If you venture even a few kilometres out of Kilronan daly’S HouSe you will see an amazing www.dalys-house.com patchwork of rock wall Ph: +353(0) 65 7074242 fences. Many of them act Rates are 38-42 Euros per night. See the note above as enclosures for livestock for more information. Highly recommended. and no doubt have performed

8 HIGHLIGHTS e patchwork pattern of the fields and the sheer number of limestone walls. Dun Aengus. Birdlife. Quiet back paths and roads for cycling. Spectacu - lar cliff coastline.

Dun Aengus Side Trip Dun Aengus is the most famous prehistoric fort on Inishmore, built around 2000BC. It is located at the edge of a precipitous 100 metre high cliff. It consists of four concentric stone walls with the out - ermost wall enclosing almost 14 acres. Parts of the wall have collapsed into the sea from erosion. An - other mode of defence that was employed at the fort is called chevaux- de- fries. Stones protrude from the ground at an angle in tight clusters to im - pede would be attackers. Some of the stones are still in evidence. It is an uphill walk to get to the fort but once there the views on a clear day are stunning. Sometimes you can see to on the Dingle Connemara National Park Peninsula. On the island you can also watch the local fisher - colour to become a whiter shade of pale through ere is an entrance fee at the visitor centre of three man fish from their tar and canvas boats called cur - much of the trip. It is a small boat and on a rough Euros per adult. Inside the centre you can read rachs and if you happen to be there in June, catch day the natural tendency is to grab an inside chair more about the history of the area and ask ques - currach races at the Patrun Festival. Enjoy some tra - – DON’T - grab a protected one outside and be tions of a local guide. e entrance to the fort ditional Irish music in a local pub, visit cra shops prepared to hold on for dear life when it is partic - closes by 6pm but so long as you are in you can and enjoy an easy cycle around the island. If you ularly wavy. It may feel like you’ll never get there. wander around and exit aer that time. haven’t arrived with a bike you can rent one just a Eat lightly ahead of time. Reservations are gener - BIKE ROUTE short walk away from the ferry. ally not needed. You aren’t likely to get lost on the island as there are only a few roads to cycle. ere is a nice loop TOTAL DISTANCE ONCE ON THE ISLAND Getting to Inishmore 15-25 kms or even a bit more if you explore the en - worth doing from the ferry out to Dun Aengus. www.doolinferries.com tire island Once on the island you can easily pick up a free You can bring your bikes on board and the one way local map and head out wherever the wind might per person charge is 20 Euros. e crossing can be TRIP RATING blow you. However, it is worth doing a loop and a VERY rough 1.5 hours. Be prepared for your face Easy

9 • About a mile past the turnoff to Dun Aengus more comfortable. It is a good idea to make reser - are the remnants of two small churches vations ahead of time and let them know that you have a bike. e ferry is about 13 Euros per person • e Aran Lighthouse and signal tower is lo - and there is a 10% discount if it is booked online. cated on the highest point of land. Visit www.aranislandferries.com for their sched - ule and bookings or phone +353(0) 91 568903. Inishmore Accommodation DISTANCE tHe Pier HouSe 73 kilometres plus the ferry crossing to Rossaveal www.galway.net/pages/pierhouse Ph: +353 (0)9961416 LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY e guesthouse is immediately in front of you Moderate - roads are not very busy and hills are when you walk off the ferries. e rooms are noth - short. If the wind is blowing it can play havoc with ing special but the location is great and meals were your mind! very good. HIGHLIGHTS Desolate windswept scenery covered in rock and ard mHuriS flowering yellow broom with lots of little lakes. Ph: +353 (0) 99 61208 Roundstone is a pretty seaside town. A few beaches ey are within walking distance of restaurants. are to be seen as you get closer to Clifden. Gunnera Contact them for current rates. staying high along the spine of the island in one di - e ride from Rossaveal to Clifden is mostly flat to rection and then taking the coastal route on the re - Inishmore Restaurants rolling through desolate rock strewn scenery with turn. ere is one tearoom near Dun Aengus but ere are limited choices in Kilronan. You can pick treeless mountains as a backdrop. e traffic is otherwise not much in the way of services. ree up pizza, and some pub food but for a lovely meal lighter as the population is low in this region of Ire - hours will be plenty of time to explore by bike and try the Pier House. You may need reservations. land. ere are lots of little loughs or lakes which attract some unusual birds. fit in the visit to the fort. ere is terrific bird Pier HouSe reStaurant watching along the coastal route too. www.pierhouserestaurant.com Ph: +353(0) 9961811 Route Dun Aengus is the obvious biking destination but e route begins as you leave the ferry in Rossaveal. other sights to visit include the following: Surprisingly good food. Turn le off the ferry and head straight for about • Church of St. Benan to the southeast of Kilro - Day 5 — Getting to Rossaveal 2.4 kilometres until you reach the R336. Turn le nan. e church is reputed to be the smallest in INISHMORE TO CLIFDEN VIA THE FERRY on the R336 towards Screebe. A lot of the road sig - the world at 3.7 metres by 1.8 metres. TO ROSSAVEAL nage has only Irish but most town names have the • e Black Fort is another cliffside ruin, only a Rossaveal is a small town west of Galway which is few miles from Kilronan linked by ferry to the Aran Islands. e ferry on this route is a bigger boat than the one running • Look for a seal colony along the coastal road between Doolin and Inishmore. e ride about 2 miles from Kilronan is only about 40 minutes long and is far

10 ere are numerous cafes to choose from. Another dun ri GueStHouSe side trip that might be of interest is the Roundstone www.dunri.ie Music, Cra and Fashion Store, on your le as you Hulk Street cycle into town. ey specialize in making Ph: +353(0) 95 21625 Bodhrans which are a one sided drum made from Very close to the Clifden town centre. Rates are 30- goat skin which yield haunting sounds. Most pro - 50 Euros per person. fessional folk musicians use Bodhrans made in Roundstone. BrookSide HoStel www.brooksidehostel.com To reach the central business district in Clifden, Ph: +353 (0) 95 21812 continue on the R341 as it becomes Bridge Street. Rates are 25 Euros per person. Kylemore Abbey Turn le on Doonen Road. You may have to walk English translation to help you head in the right di - your bike for a block as this is a one way section. Clifden Restaurants rection. It is 16 kilometres to get to Screebe along Take the next le on Market Street and follow it to You will find lots of choice in the Clifden area from very gently rolling hills. Traffic is reasonably light. Main Street. You’re in the center of town now. pub food through to fine dining. Guy’s Bar and is is an area of desolate looking countryside. Wine Shop is a fine choice for pub food in the Clifden Accommodation town centre. Try Mitchell’s Restaurant on Market At Screebe turn le onto the R340 and in approx - Street which is reputed to offer very good food at imately 8 kilometres it is worth taking the shortcut tHe Quay HouSe reasonable prices. For a fancier affair try the Abbey - across the peninsula. Look for the secondary road www.thequayhouse.com glen Castle noted above. off to the right with signage for Lettershinna. ere Beach road are 9 kilometres of quite bleak countryside with Ph: +353 (0) 95 21369 some peat operations visible. is was an area of ex - is upscale B&B/Inn was built for the harbour - tremely windy biking for us. When you reach the master 200 years ago. Its fourteen bedrooms are R340 turn right. well appointed and the owners are most gracious and helpful. It is recommended in many guides. In less than a kilometre turn le onto the R342. Breakfasts are excellent too. Rates are 75 to 90 ere will be some pretty open sections of water Euros per person sharing though they do have oc - that you’ll pass. Also, there are a few manor type casional specials. hotels with pubs and restaurants that aren’t inex - pensive and they can be quite lovely. e Cashel aBBeyGlen CaStle Hotel House Hotel is just such a place and its award win - www.abbeyglen.ie/ ning gardens are fun to wander through. Expect Sky road lunch to be at least 40 Euros for two. You can’t miss Ph: +353 (0) 95 21201 the signs on your right as you cycle the R342. A well appointed 4 star hotel with views over Clif - den Bay. It is an expensive spot with rates for a dou - When you reach the R341 make a le turn and fol - ble in the order of 225 Euros per night. low it for 30 kilometres to Clifden. If you haven’t had lunch then a stop in Roundstone is in order.

11 HIGHLIGHTS Westport. e riding is relatively easy for the 10 Sky Road. Connemara National Park. Kylemore kilometres to the Connemara park entrance found Abbey. Highway N59 north of Leenane for 15 about a half kilometre before . It is an - kilometres. e pretty town of Westport. other kilometre up the road to the visitor’s station from the N59. If you have the time and inclination Route and the day’s weather is in your favour then con - We recommend you cycle the very scenic Sky Road sider one of several walks in the park to give you a (14 kms) in a clockwise direction from Clifden so feel for the area. e park visitor center is worth a you won’t have to retrace the route from Clifden visit and bog history is surprisingly interesting. Peat drying to the beginning on the highway, thereby saving about three kilometres. From the town of Clifden Letterfrack, on the N59, is a small town twenty five Day 6 — Clifden to Westport you have two choices; look for the very visible sign kilometres into the day’s ride on the N59 where OPTION for Sky Road and the luxurious Abbeyglen Castle you can pick up some food at a pub, café or shop. It Overnight in Letterfrack or Leenane to allow more Hotel or head down towards the quay on Beach offers numerous places to stay so if you were very time for exploration Road. Either road is fine and will take you in the keen on hiking, an extra night in town would per - mit a longer walk in the park, perhaps to the top of e road from Clifden to Westport passes Con - right direction. If you take Beach Road then turn one of the famous Bens. en there would also be nemara National Park and Kylemore Abbey. Both right at the first intersection (at least a kilometre time to cycle the Connemara loop which heads out spots warrant additional time. e 14 kilometre along past e Quay House) and climb a steep but on a peninsula to the northwest of Letterfrack. Sky Road Loop, right out of Clifden, is not to be short hill to join up with Sky Road. Turn le when Kylemore Abbey could be visited at a more relaxed missed either, so it would be wise to get an early you reach Sky Road. pace too. start if you want to see everything. If hiking in Once on Sky Road be prepared for some initial Connemara National Park has some appeal then climbing but the duration is short. e first 9-10 Assuming that the day is more about cycling than consider spending a night in Letterfrack or kilometres are all about savouring the view as you stopping, continue on the N59 for about 4 kilo - Leenane. round the peninsula. Windswept beaches and metres until you reach the entrance to the grounds views to little islands are stunning. ere are lots of of Kylemore Abbey, the only Irish home of the MILEAGE 80 kilometres including 14 kilometres cycling the sheep staring at you and an old castle to admire. It Benedictine monks. e entrance fee for an adult is Sky Road loop near Clifden. is really one of the nicest roads in the region and 12 Euros. You can wander the grounds, see a few of worth the effort!! the rooms in the abbey, check out the basilica and LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY spend time contemplating how it would be to live Generally easy although there are some bigger hills As you come back inland near the end of Sky Road in an area of such beauty. ere is also a six acre Vic - along the way. It really helps if the wind is at your keep le on a smaller highway and then make an - torian walled garden. e Abbey is located on a back though don’t count on it. other le onto the N59 that will be signed for lake with mountains as a backdrop but what really

12 gives the place some character are the large trees which one sees so little of in Ireland. You will need at least an hour for the Abbey. We were worried that we le the Abbey too late in the day as we still had almost 50 kilometres to reach Westport. As it turns out the riding can be done in a few hours as the riding for the rest of the day is primarily flat with only the odd small hill to deal with. From the Abbey, get back on the N59 which will take you all the way to Westport. Aer you pass Kylemore Abbey there is a desolate section of peat bogs. Shortly you will reach Leenane. Stay straight on the N59 to reach Westport though you could atched cottage take a short side trip to see Ashleagh Falls by taking OFFSHORE ISLANDS the side road (the R335) on the le about a kilo - Side trips Inishbofin Island and Clare Island are two islands metre past Leenane. ere is very scenic country CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK that are worthy of a visit if time permits. You will to ride through shortly aer Leenane with gor - e Park is located just outside the town of Letter - also need the weather to be cooperative as the fer - geous views of the . frack. It covers over 2000 hectares of mountain, ries don’t run if sea conditions are too rough. woodlands, grasslands and bogs. It is open all year e N59 becomes Leenane Road when you get though the visitor centre is only open from March Inishbofin is 10 kilometres off the coast near Clif - close to Westport. Continue on it to the end and to October. ere are well signed paths of varying den and is accessed via a 30 minute ferry ride from turn right on Quay Hill to reach the town center. If length including a walk to the top of Diamond the small fishing village of . ere are cliff you turn le and stay on Quay Hill you will run Hill. e park encloses several of the Twelve Bens top walks, white, sandy beaches and interesting into an area with some upscale hotels and restau - which can also be hiked. flora and fauna. For more information visit rants close to the water. It would be worthwhile, es - www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com . pecially since it is likely to be a long day, to pre book LEENANE CULTURAL CENTRE your accommodation so you have a destination e centre overlooks Killary’s beautiful harbour in Clare Island is accessed from Roonah Point, closer upon your arrival in Westport. Leenane. e center began in 1992 with a mandate to Westport. Spectacular cliffs make for some in - to display the various stages and techniques used in teresting walking. Bicycling is also possible. It is a the woollen industry of the area. You can learn short 20 minute ferry ride and it is possible to stay about carding, spinning, weaving and dyeing wool. in a B&B or the one hotel. For more information en check out over twenty different types of visit www.clareisland.info/ . sheep that graze the grounds. You can also enjoy home cooking and shopping on the premises.

13 weStPort Plaza Hotel tween Clifden and Westport. Letterfrack is an obvi - www.westportplazahotel.ie ous spot to spend an additional night if you need Castlebar Street more time in the Connemara National Park area but Ph: +353(0) 98 51166 you might also consider a pretty ride along the coast Expect luxury 4 star accommodation. Rates vary and the non technical climb of Croagh Patrick. It is considerably with the season. Expect to pay 118 to a short 8 kilometre cycle from Westport. over 218 Euros per night. Croagh Patrick is a Christian pilgrimage site. Back in 441 AD Saint Patrick fasted for forty days. e Westport Restaurants Look for small pubs and restaurants scattered pilgrimage is in honour of him and on the last Sun - day in July (Reek Sunday) you can expect to expe - Famine Memorial throughout town. See below for one of the more famous Irish pubs. rience the mountain with 15,000 other pilgrims Westport Accommodation who attempt it, some in bare feet only. It is matt molloy’S nonetheless a very worthwhile climb with fabulous tHe BouleVard GueStHouSe www.mattmolloy.com views over Clew Bay. e peak rises to 764 metres www.boulevard-guesthouse.com Bridge Street (2510 feet). Aer the climb you can enjoy a bite to South mall Ph: +353(0)98 26655 eat in the cafe at the base and a trip across the street Ph: +353 (0) 98 25138 e pub is known for its live traditional music. to the National Famine Monument (the monu - Cheery bedrooms and decent sized bathrooms are Matt Malloy is the flute player of Chieains fame ment is interesting – hardly enjoyable) the norm. e owners are helpful and the B&B is but also one of the owners of the pub. within walking distance to lots of pubs and restau - rants. Rates are approximately 45-50 Euros per per - Route to Croagh Patrick from Letterfrack Accommodation Westport son sharing. Leave the centre of Westport on James Street and roSeleaGue manor follow it past Shop Street to Quay Hill. Stay on linden Hall B&B www.rosleague.com Quay Hill to the Coast Road and turn le. www.lindenhallwestport.com Ph: +353(0) 95 41101 altamount Street Look for seclusion and comfort in this luxurious Follow the Coast road to the R335 and turn right. Ph: +353 (0) 98 27005 hotel located on 30 acres and overlooking Balli - e R335 has bike lanes that will take you all the way ey are within walking distance of pubs. e nakill Bay. Rates are about 210 Euros per room to Murrisk. You won’t be able to miss the mountain rooms aren’t fancy but the hosts are friendly and though specials on multiday stays are available. on your le. Lock your bikes at the base of the helpful. Rates are 35-50 Euros. mountain. tHe old monaStery Day 7 — Possible Rest day in www.oldmonasteryhostel.com Westport with Optional Climb of Ph: +353 (0) 87 2349543 Croagh Patrick (764 m) Rates are 20-25 Euros per night. If your schedule permits a rest day (from the bike!) then you would do well to spend it in the area be -

14 Day 8 — Westport to Cong and I highly recommend that you finish the cycling aSHField HouSe shuttle to Galway portion of your trip in Cong. e roads to Galway www.congaccommodation.com are extremely busy with poor or missing shoulders. Ph: +353(0) 94 9546759 MILEAGE ere are possibilities of quiet roads for part of the Located a few kilometres outside of Cong but re - About 56 kilometres to Cong trip down but at some point you will have to cycle puted to be friendly with great breakfasts. Contact either the N59 or the N84. I was on the N84 and them for rates. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Easy unless the wind is in your face. it is by far the scariest road I have ever cycled in my life!!! It is a death trap and absolutely not worth at - ConG HoStel HIGHLIGHTS tempting. Instead arrange for taxis or a pickup from www.quietman-cong.com Lakeside riding along Lough Mask, the pretty vil - Ph: +353 (0) 94 9546089 lage of Cong, Ashford Castle the bike rental store at a predetermined hour in Cong. Cong is a very pretty little town and home Rates are 20-25 Euros per night per person. ** Arrange a shuttle back to Galway beforehand to the luxurious Ashford Castle ,now a hotel that is with the bike rental company. It will cost about 40 recommended in the book ‘1000 Places to see Be - Tour Companies e philosophy of this guide is to help you figure Euros per person. fore You Die.’ out how to book the Connemara/Burren/Aran Is - CONG lands tour yourself. However, if you want alterna - Route e town of Cong is well known for golf and fish - Leave downtown Westport by the South Mall and tives to doing the arranging you could consider ing. It is also a lovely town for walking and poking bear le at the end followed by an immediate right calling one of the following tour operators. about the many cra shops. Wander by the ruins of onto Fairgreen. Fairgreen becomes Altamont the Augustine Abbey, dating from the early 13th Bike Hire ireland Street which is in fact the R330 even though there century. e movie ‘Quiet Man’ with John Wayne www.bikehireireland.com are no signs for miles. was filmed here in 1952. Tours are available for four Ph: +353 (0) 91 569888 Continue on the R330 past Kilvally all the way to Euros at the Quiet Man cottage. is is the same place you can rent your bike from Cloonee, about 17 kilometres from Westport. and they also offer guided and self guided tours of Most people visiting Cong are not staying at the the Burren and Connemara areas. Bear le in Cloonee towards Srah and Gortbuna - castle but nonetheless try to include a bike ride culin on very quiet roads. Bear le in Gortbunac - through their magnificent grounds. iron donkey BiCyCle tourinG ulin and continue southwest on the roads running www.irondonkey.com closely parallel to Lough Mask. It is about 22 kilo - Accommodation in Cong Ph: 01144 2890 813200 (from north america) ey offer 7 night guided trips of Connemara, metres from the turnoff of the R330 until you aSHFord CaStle Hotel reach the R 345. Clare and e Burren area as well as 10 and 12 www.ashford.ie/index.php night options for a combination of Connemara When the road comes to a T intersection with the Ph: +353(0) 94 9546003 and e Burren. Prices start at 525 Euros on a self R345, turn le (east) towards Cong. Continue on A gorgeous 5 star property on Lough Corrib with guided basis but do not include bike rentals or this road until you reach Cong in approximately 17 lots of activities and fine service. Expect to pay at transfers. kilometres. least 250 Euros per night and much more depend - ing on the room and season. killary tourS www.killarytours.com Ph: +353 (0) 95 42276 ey offer an extensive line-up of tours ranging from mini break self guided 5 day tours to very lux - urious one week guided tours with a wide range of price points.

15 Bike Vermont Travel Tips MAPS www.bikevermont.com If you want a good map ahead of time visit MILEAGE CONVERTER Ph: 1-800-257-2226 1 kilometre = 0.621371192 miles or visit www.irishmaps.ie/ . Otherwise pick up local maps ey offer 6 night/7 day trips of western Ireland www.metric-conversions.org at B&B’s, hotels, bus and train stations or at the with lovely accommodation for $US2695-$2995. tourist information centers. ey are usually free. CALLING NORTH AMERICA FROM eaSy rider tourS IRELAND ELECTRIC PLUGS www.easyridertours.com/site/ireland.html 00 1 + area code + local number Use the same plug that is used in Great Britain. Ph: 978-463-6955 ey are found in travel stores and at airports. CELL PHONE RENTALS ey have a 7day/6night tour for $US2895 which ere are times a cell phone would be handy and if WEATHER FORECASTS includes the area up to Clifden. you are travelling alone it might give you and your www.met.ie family some peace of mind. Visit Select or County Clare Pedal and Sea adVentureS www.cellhire.com/ or www.cellularabroad.com/ www.pedalandseaadventures.com for more information. Ph: 877-777-5699 ey offer both guided and self guided tours. Guided priced are $Cdn2595 for 6 nights and 7 days.

PPAACCKKIINNGG LLIISSTT

BIKE EQUIPMENT CLOTHES OTHER • Pump, tire irons and patch kit plus spare inner ***the trip is much less formal than we it thought it • Cycling glasses/sunglasses tubes would be so unless you plan to stay in 5* hotels you can keep your non biking clothes simple*** • Camera + extra batteries • Cycle odometer • Underwear and socks, biking and otherwise • Cell phone or phone card plus recharger and • Bike lock electric plug • Leg and arm warmers depending on the season • Repair tools with Allen wrenches • Cash + debit card • Booties for rain protection • Bungee cord • Ziploc bags + large plastic bags for panniers • Cycling gloves • Your own pedals and bike shoes (optional) • Panniers and a handlebar bag if not supplied • Bike shorts and short and long sleeved bike jer - • Helmet and helmet cover for rain seys depending on the season • Nylon bags for dirty clothes

• Water bottles • Long biking pants depending on the season • Map, guide and itinerary

• Rain gear for top and bottom • Swiss army style of knife + spoon and fork (op - tional) • Windproof fleece jacket • Headlamp + extra batteries or a bike light in case • Jeans and/or shorts you’re on the road when it gets dark

• After biking tops – long and short sleeved • First aid kit

• Shoes and/or scandals • Prescription and non prescription drugs

• Bandana • Sunscreen and toiletries

• Energy bars

• Local map – pick it up at a tourist information center found in all major towns

16