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JC291 NIAH_Galway Book(AW):master wicklow - english 5/1/11 11:21 Page 1

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY JC291 NIAH_Galway Book(AW):master wicklow - english 5/1/11 11:21 Page 2

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of

Foreword

MAP OF COUNTY GALWAY From Samuel Lewis’ Topographical Dictionary of , published , 1837.

Reproduced from a map in Trinity College with the permission of the Board of Trinity College

The Architectural Inventory of County is to explore the social and historical context Galway took place in three stages: West Galway of the buildings and structures and to facilitate ( and Galway city) in 2008, South a greater appreciation of the architectural Galway (from southwards) in 2009 heritage of County Galway. and North Galway (north of Ballinasloe) in 2010. A total of 2,100 structures were recorded. Of these some 1,900 are deemed worthy of The NIAH survey of County Galway protection. can be accessed on the Internet at: The Inventory should not be regarded as www.buildingsofireland.ie THE TWELVE PINS, exhaustive and, over time, other buildings and CONNEMARA, WITH structures of merit may come to light. The BLANKET BOG IN NATIONAL INVENTORY FOREGROUND purpose of the survey and of this introduction of ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY

Introduction

SLIEVE AUGHTY THE , MOUNTAINS GALWAY, c.1900

The Claddagh village, at the mouth of the , had its own fishing fleet and a 'king'. It had streets of mainly single- storey thatched houses, and several greens for laying out fishing nets. It was entirely replaced by new housing in the 1930s. Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland

Galway is the second largest county in plains stretch from the Shannon to Ireland after and is bounded in clockwise the Corrib in the east of the county and order by counties Mayo, , Offaly, provide an abundance of good building Tipperary and Clare. The Shannon and the material, which is easily split into regular indented coastline provides shelter for villages the local authority on the grounds that it was form natural boundaries, while shapes or carved into fine decorative details. It where modest quays were built to support overcrowded and unsanitary. forms an internal division has been used in structures of every size fishing and trading. During the nineteenth Lough Corrib, the second largest lake in between the east and west of the county. It throughout the county, from the large stone century large harbours were built at intervals Ireland, is very deep in places and has also encompasses numerous inhabited islands, blocks of prehistoric stone forts on the Aran along the coast but the small quays continue numerous islands. In its vicinity are the including the , which lie across the Islands and the rubble stone of modest to provide moorage to local fishing craft. The imposing Ashford to the north, entrance to . There is a diverse buildings and walls to the ashlar work of grand ancient village of Claddagh with streets of monastic settlements at on the internal geography with rich pasture land to houses and public buildings. thatched vernacular houses was the most east and on the island of off the east and the bogs, lakes and mountains of Water is a dominant feature in the Galway famous of the Galway Bay communities. At , and village to the Connemara to the west. Granite is found landscape and associated structures contribute times over the centuries it prospered but south, where clusters of thatched vernacular across the southern regions of Connemara. significantly to its architectural heritage. The between 1929 and 1934 it was demolished by houses survive.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY

LOUGH CORRIB The vernacular traditions of Irish building Enterprising merchants were attracted to the are well represented throughout the county. town and, by the beginning of the sixteenth Stone houses and outbuildings with thatch or century, they had turned it into a thriving slate are most common, although mud-built port, trading with , Spain, Italy and structures are also found. The location, design Britain, and importing wine, iron, salt, cloth, and construction of vernacular buildings spices and silks for the Irish market. Fourteen evolved to suit local environmental conditions powerful merchant families emerged in Galway and they have a natural beauty that makes during this time. In the seventeenth century them an integral part of the scenery for which they supported the Crown against Cromwell; Galway is justifiably famous. they were referred to in a derogatory way as The islands of County Galway attracted the ‘’ but they later adopted powerful warlords who built defensive this term as a badge of honour. structures in strategic locations, and monastic In the following century the greatest impact settlers. The Aran Islands are the most famous on the landscape came in the form of the of the Galway islands; their ancient history of landed estates with their imposing country settlement and relative isolation have left houses and associated stable yards and architectural features of domestic, monastic and demesne features. defensive origin that have been lost elsewhere. The nineteenth century was a period of A considerable traditional culture has been expansion in urban areas and infrastructural maintained on these islands and they comprise development in rural Galway. Market towns, INIS OÍRR one of Ireland’s strongest Irish-speaking areas. such as and , came into being, This aerial view shows limestone karst There were several notable phases in the often at the instigation of influential landscape, with the development of regional architecture following landowners. Transport in the west of the South Island the arrival of the Anglo- at the end of county was difficult prior to the completion of Lighthouse and keepers’ houses in the century. As the de Burgos sought the network, construction of which began distance. to control land seized from Irish septs, they in the 1820s under the direction of the Scottish Courtesy of the built sturdy rectangular earthen mottes and, engineer Alexander Nimmo. His ambitious Photographic Unit, DOEHLG later, stone . In the fifteenth, sixteenth programme of road, bridge, harbour and pier and early seventeenth centuries, square or building to link Galway with Clifden and the rectangular-plan towerhouses became common coastal villages with market towns, is one of structures for landowners, whether Anglo- the remarkable stories of Galway’s architectural Norman or Gaelic Irish. heritage. The new improved access for In the 1230s Richard de Burgo rebuilt an local people and opened the region up to existing Gaelic fortification by the fishing tourists; several hunting lodges can be found hamlet that stood on the mouth of the River in scenic locations such as Kylemore Lake and Corrib. By 1270 a town wall had been started, . encircling an area of about 13 hectares (32 As government control extended acres) and, over the next two centuries the throughout the county, many classically styled compact, easily defended town of Galway grew. buildings were constructed. In the mid-

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY

DÚN GUAIRE CASTLE THE KELP HOUSE Dungory West Doonreaghan (c.1800) (c.1550) This boathouse, built Dún Guaire Castle by Captain T. Hazell stands at the inner of nearby Doon extremity of Kinvara House, is now used Bay, an inlet of as a store for Galway Bay. It is a seaweed. three-storey towerhouse built by the O’Hynes in the sixteenth century and attached to the west side of a polygonal bawn (stone courtyard) that was rebuilt in 1642.

WATER PUMP Beagh Beg (c.1870)

century and its aftermath, the country. The Celtic Revival movement had a decimation of communities through death and significant impact on Galway’s architectural emigration threatened many aspects of heritage in the early twentieth century and traditional Irish life, most particularly the Irish interlace motifs in stone, metal and stained language. In the late nineteenth century the glass grace many buildings from this period. preservation of the was at the The rich architectural heritage of County core of the Celtic Revival movement and the Galway has some magnificent buildings, Galway poet Antaine Ó Raifteirí was an including , and inspiration to when he founded Cathedral, but the wealth of the the Gaelic League in 1893. Today Cois heritage is in the many modest, often Fharraige, which runs west along the coast functional structures that blend in with the from , is one of the largest Gaeltachtaí diverse landscapes of the county. (Irish language-speaking districts) in the

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

CILL CHEANANNACH Pre 1700 Ceathrú an Lisín (Carrownlisheen) (c. 800)

Cill Cheanannach, near the shore at the east end of Inis Meáin, is a well preserved early DÚN AONGHASA Christian oratory with Cill Mhuirbhe high gables and a (Kilmurvy) trabeate doorway, the Árainn (Inis Mór) sides of the latter (c.1000-500BC) sloping inwards towards the lintel. This photograph by The surrounding Lawrence, from about graveyard has 1900, shows islanders gravestones laid flat in traditional dress at and giving it the the main entrance to appearance of the this iconic Atlantic limestone pavement cathair (stone fort). prevalent on the Courtesy of the island. National Library of Ireland NIAH

NA SEACHT dTEAMPAILL Eoghanacht (Onaght) Árainn (Inis Mór) (c.AD800-1500)

Oileáin Árann (Aran The ancient and medieval architectural which it was built are all unknown. The name Islands) have some heritage of County Galway is especially was adopted in the nineteenth century by the notable monastic sites. Na Seacht noteworthy on the Aran Islands where there Ordnance Survey. Also on Árainn is an early dTeampall (Seven are prehistoric megalithic tombs, forts of dry- monastic settlement founded by St Éanna (died Churches), founded stone masonry, and the remains of monastic c.530). The remains of centuries of monastic before 530 by Saint Éanna, has a round structures on this site include fragments of a settlements. Many are difficult to date, even tower, three high approximately. Outstanding among the round tower, the remains of a Franciscan friary, crosses, an oratory, antiquities is the ancient fort of Dún Aonghusa a small, well-preserved stone oratory, beehive beehive huts, churches and domestic buildings, on Árainn (Inis Mór), which consists of four huts, stone cells and Teaghlach Éinne, which is all within a gated dry-stone rampart walls forming roughly a fine early church with antae and a round- precinct. concentric semi-circles. It is located on a 200- headed east window, and part of a figured high Courtesy of the Photographic foot (60-metre) sea-cliff. The date of cross. Saint Éanna is reputedly buried at this Unit, DOEHLG construction, the builders and the purpose for church.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

(fig. 1) ROSS ERRILY FRIARY SAINT ’S Ross CATHEDRAL (mainly late 15th Glebe (part of) century) (c.1180) Ross Errily friary is one of the most The gable-front of the intact monastic cathedral at Clonfert complexes in Ireland. is one of the glories It lies in pasture land of Irish Romanesque near the , art, with an entrance just inside the of eight diminishing boundary with Mayo. arches richly carved Courtesy of the with animal, floral Photographic Unit, and geometric motifs. DOEHLG Courtesy of the Photographic Unit, DOEHLG

(fig. 2) SAINT MARY’S CHURCH OF CLONTUSKERT On mainland County Galway there are IRELAND CATHEDRAL PRIORY several important monastic sites associated Galway Road Abbeypark (1471) with St Brendan the Navigator, who died in (c.1170) the sixth century. Saint Brendan’s Cathedral A priory of in Clonfert is one of the older ecclesiastical This chancel arch is Augustinian canons the widest of any was founded here by sites in continuous use in Ireland. It was Romanesque church the O’Kelly family in constructed on the site of an earlier church in in Ireland and also the middle of the c.1180 and was substantially rebuilt and the oldest surviving twelfth century. It part of the medieval was rebuilt after a extended in the fifteenth century, when the cathedral at Tuam. conflagration in 1413, tower above the doorway was added. The The building was and this fine doorway richly ornamented sandstone doorway is added in 1170 to the has notable figure monastery originally sculpture. After 1636 regarded as one of the high points of founded by Saint the priory housed architectural decoration in the Hiberno- Jarlath in the sixth mendicant friars. Romanesque style (fig. 1). The chancel arch, century. Courtesy of the Courtesy of the Photographic Unit, which dates from the fifteenth century, is Photographic Unit, DOEHLG ornamented with carved angels, knotwork, DOEHLG dragons and a mermaid.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

VIEW OF GALWAY, (fig. 3) 1652 KUMAR Flood Street/Spanish This dramatic bird's Arch eye view of Galway is Galway a remarkable (c.1500) depiction of an Irish cityscape. The This very intact late boats and ships medieval house is reflect the trading enhanced by its fine importance of gable doorway and Galway. The city wall double-light window. and towers, parts still standing today, are also shown. Reproduced with the permission of the Board of Trinity College

The Dominican friary in was founded in 1241 and built over the following twenty years. It was extended, damaged and altered over the centuries but the ruins still retain the fine north window of the transept c.1324 and a collection of tomb niches of the medieval period. The nearby castle was built by Meiler de Bermingham after he was granted a charter in 1235. Walls surrounding the town were built shortly after 1312 and Athenry is one of the most intact medieval walled towns It is believed that St Brendan was buried in 1471. The Cistercian abbey of Knockmoy was in Ireland today. Clonfert but that he died at Annaghdown, founded in 1190; its most noteworthy feature In Galway city, the port was prospering. As where he had founded a convent for his sister, is a late Gothic painting of c.1500 on the merchant families became wealthy, streets were Briga. Annaghdown developed over the north wall of the chancel that depicts the tale laid out and mansions built. Some of these following centuries and a round tower and of The Three Live Kings and The Three Dead buildings have survived and Galway now has other monastic buildings were built. Kings in the upper register, and The the greatest concentration of sixteenth and The Augustinians, Franciscans, Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian beneath. The early seventeenth-century houses in Ireland. and Dominicans were amongst the orders black lines are still visible but much of the At the junction of Flood Street and Fish attracted to County Galway in the medieval colour has gone. Ross Errilly, , Market is Kumar, another substantially intact period and ruins of their settlements remain. founded 1351, is the most extensive and best medieval house; it has many early features The Augustinians moved into Clontuskert, the preserved of the Franciscan friaries in Ireland. including a steeply pitched roof, a double-light site of an earlier Irish monastic settlement; Most of the buildings date to the fifteenth ogee-headed window and a pointed doorway in today their thirteenth-century church has a century. the gable with a moulded chamfered surround

highly decorative west doorway executed in NIAH having stops with an interlace pattern.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

(fig. 4) (fig. 5a) LYNCH'S CASTLE JOHN DEELY (now AIB Bank) Mainguard /Abbeygate Street/Churchyard Street Upper, Galway Street (c.1500, modified Galway c.1820) Stone tablet dated One of the best- 1562 and bearing the known urban tower arms of Thomas houses in Ireland, Martin and Evelyn Lynch's Castle is Lynch. notable for its profusion of decorative window details and armorial plaques, exemplifying a tradition that is better known in continental Europe. The building was converted into a bank in 1966.

The best example of a high-status house from this period is Lynch’s Castle on the corner of Shop Street and Abbeygate Street; although it has been altered over the centuries, it still displays elaborate carvings to the window openings, and various coats of arms (fig. 4). Other early Galway buildings have been incorporated into the fabric of later structures and these can sometimes be identified in the fenestration of upper floors or in fragments, ornaments or other decorations that were salvaged and reused (figs. 5a-b). Browne’s Doorway, which formerly stood on Abbeygate (fig. 5b) Street Lower until 1905, is now on display as a SEAGHAN UA freestanding structure in . NEACHTAIN Quay Street/Cross The church of Saint Nicholas was founded Street Upper in 1320 and was, in common with the practice Galway in many medieval ports, dedicated to St

Oriel window of Nicholas of Myra, the patron saint of sailors. c.1600. The chancel, transepts and nave arcades date

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

(fig. 6) SAINT NICHOLAS’ COLLEGIATE CHURCH Church Lane/Shop Street/Churchyard Street Galway (c.1320-1600)

Saint Nicholas’s Church is the largest medieval parish church still in use in Ireland. Dating to c.1320, it was re- edified at various times in Galway’s prosperous sixteenth century. Its form has changed little since its depiction in View of Galway 1652. Reproduced courtesy of

AUGHNANURE CASTLE from the original construction in the lands in eastern County Galway, they moved Aughnanure (c.1450) fourteenth century (fig. 6). The wealthy to Connemara and prospered. In the fifteenth merchant families were generous benefactors and sixteenth centuries, they built towerhouses This fifteenth-century and turned Saint Nicholas’s into the largest along their eastern borders and around the O’Flaherty stronghold fell into English hands medieval parish church in Ireland. The Lynch coast. Aughnanure is a well preserved in 1572, but stayed memorial tomb is particularly elaborate and an six-storey towerhouse with a fine fireplace in occupied by the enduring symbol of the family’s association the third storey, a vault over the fourth storey family until the early eighteenth century. with the church. and two corner bartizans on the third floor. The six-storey In rural Galway, the powerful Gaelic The castle has two bawns, the inner of which towerhouse stands O’Flaherty family built is well preserved and has a rounded turret with within a bawn that is half enclosed within a around 1500. After they were driven off their a fine corbelled roof. The outer bawn encloses second. Courtesy of the Photographic Unit, DOEHLG

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700

(fig. 7) (fig. 8) CASTLE CASTLE Portumna Demesne Eyrecourt Demesne Portumna Eyrecourt (c.1618) (c.1665)

One of Ireland’s , one largest semi-fortified of the first wholly houses, Portumna was undefended large built for Richard houses in Ireland, was Burke, fourth Earl of built for Colonel John and his Eyre following the wife Frances Cromwellian Walsingham, Countess conquest. Ruinous for of Essex. It was over a century, it still destroyed by fire in displays superb 1826 and restored by detailing, such as the State in the carved timber eaves 1990s. brackets. Courtesy of the Courtesy of the Irish Photographic Unit, Architectural Archive DOEHLG designed for walking on and was sometimes EYRECOURT CASTLE used to view the hunt; on such occasions Courtesy of the Detroit Institute of Arts / guests could appreciate the lavish use of Bridgeman Art Gallery decoration such as the shaped gables with decorative finials and the pattern work in the plaster on the two giant chimney stacks. The large demesne, originally 1400 acres (560 hectares), is still relatively intact and includes the formal gateways, gate-lodge, icehouse, walled gardens and a stable yard. Eyrecourt Castle, built in the 1660s, is a wholly unfortified gentleman’s residence (fig. 8). It is a substantial, two-storey house the sixteenth-century banqueting hall, most of Castle in a commanding position on the shores with a seven-bay entrance front, a three-bay which collapsed due to erosion from a now-dry of . This semi-fortified mansion pedimented breakfront and had a hipped roof river. The O’Flahertys held the castle until represents a transition from defensive castles with dormer windows. The house was left to they were expelled towards the end of the and towerhouses of the medieval period to decay in 1920 and is now a ruin. The seventeenth century. country houses of the eighteenth century magnificent oak staircase with finely carved The Anglo-Norman de Burgo (later de Burgh (fig. 7). It retains a wealth of cut stonework newels and finials was dismantled and is now or Burke) family held on to their power over with mullions and transoms to its windows; it in the Detroit Institute of Arts, USA; it is the centuries and in 1543 Ulick de Burgh received also has some defensive features such as only surviving Irish example of a type of the title Earl of Clanricarde. Sometime before machicolations, shot holes and strong corner staircase found in many seventeenth-century 1618, Richard, the fourth earl, built Portumna towers. The lead on the original roof was English houses.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY Pre 1700 NIAH

(fig. 10) FARTAMORE BRIDGE Fartamore/Kilcreevanty (c.1700)

This exceptionally long bridge of small round arches crosses the flood plain of the . It has unusual projections that resemble pedestrian refuges. NIAH

(fig. 11) FINNURE CHURCH Finnure The former palace of the Bishops of are difficult to date, several were probably built (c.1600) (fig. 9) Clonfert, another unfortified house, is part of in this period. Fartamore Bridge, built of CLONFERT HOUSE This very simple, Clonfert Demesne a cluster of significant ecclesiastical buildings, rubble limestone, is an exceptionally long small structure was in (c.1638) which includes . It was built structure and may be seventeenth century or indicative of its early date. The church fell into protected as national monuments. Ruined use in the mid- in the mid-seventeenth century and partly earlier; a larger, segmental arch was inserted in ruin but was recently renovated. The Roman examples of towerhouses are plentiful, nineteenth century as This multi-period a Roman Catholic house, built for the rebuilt in the late eighteenth century the middle of the nineteenth century (fig. 10). at Kilcornan (c.1600) is also a especially in the eastern part of the county. In chapel. It has a bishop of Clonfert, (fig. 9). The eight-bay, two-storey house with The single-cell churches from the simple construction of rubble limestone. The Galway city, the prosperous medieval period is vaulted stone roof was probably begun dormer windows has seventeenth-century oak seventeenth century did not survive so well. lancet window openings have cut and evident in buildings that have been adapted for and round-headed in the sixteenth doorway with a century. It was beams and joists and possibly its original roof. The Finnure Roman Catholic church (c.1600) chamfered stone surrounds and the pointed- contemporary use and in features such as plaque of 1721 inhabited until 1954, It became the home of Sir Oswald Mosley in is a single-cell church set in a graveyard (fig. arch door opening has a cut limestone windows, doorways and coats of arms that above. The building since which time it 1952 but was damaged by fire two years later 11). The simple construction of rubble threshold. This church also fell into ruin but were salvaged from demolished structures. has long been the has fallen into decay. burial place of the Courtesy of the and is now largely ruined. limestone is enhanced by the pointed-arch was renovated and reroofed. Meanwhile the traditions of Irish vernacular O’Madden family. Victoria and Albert A modest design tradition in County window opening to the east elevation and the The early architectural heritage of County buildings continued, particularly in rural Museum, London Galway may be seen in bridges and churches pointed-arch door opening. The carefully Galway is evident today in the city, towns and communities. of the seventeenth century. While the bridges tooled but partly uncut door-surround is countryside, with many ancient structures

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 12) The Eighteenth Century MENLOUGH (c.1800)

KILLEENEENMORE One of five thatched houses remaining in This map of 1842 the former fishing depicts the vernacular village of Menlough, settlement of on the bank of the Killeeneenmore, one River Corrib a few of hundreds of kilometres north of varying form in the Galway City. mid-Galway area that may have been established as early as the mid-seventeenth (fig. 13) century. DERRYFRENCH (c.1800)

Two-storey thatched houses are very rare NIAH in County Galway and this pair of houses because they withstood the ferocious Atlantic was possibly once a winds more effectively than hipped roofs. long single-storey house. The neat Thatch was widely used for roofs in scollopwork to the buildings of all sorts, including mills, schools ridge, and below and churches as well as houses; it was light and chimneys are noteworthy. therefore did not require heavy timbers in the roof construction (figs. 12-13). It was generally made from straw; reeds also made good thatch but they were more difficult to obtain, except near rivers and large lakes. The eighteenth century was a time of grand houses that incorporated fashionable There were variations around the county as to consolidation following the Cromwellian architectural styles. how the thatched roof was constructed. Straw confiscation and Williamite war of the previous The majority of people in rural Galway lived rope was often used to help to secure thatched century. Anti-Catholic were in settlement clusters (‘’) or in villages roofs in coastal areas. In other, more eastern, introduced in 1691 and land tenure by as tenants of landlords. Vernacular houses that parts, thatched roofs were often completed Catholics was forbidden. These processes survive from this period are typically single- with an edging of willow or hazel rods created a shift of property ownership into storey structures of four bays with a low (‘scollops’) to the eaves and ridge and perhaps Protestant, ‘New English’ hands, although rendered chimney protruding from the roof with decorative straw knot-work to the ridge. some powerful Catholic families retained their ridge. The site and orientation of the house Variations in vernacular houses indicate lands through negotiation. Galway city went and the location of its doors and windows were how they were adapted to suit the owners’ into a decline but branches of the Tribes of carefully considered to provide protection from changing circumstances, such as growing Galway held onto their wealth and power and the prevailing winds. Gable roofs were families. Rooms were created in the attic and created demesnes in rural Galway, building commonly used, especially in coastal areas, NIAH

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 14) (fig. 16) BALLINASLOE BRIDGE BRIDGE Bridge Street Leam East Ballinasloe /Derryerglinna (fig. 17) (c.1570 and 1754) (c.1800) ROXBOROUGH DEMESNE/ Sir , Lord Spanning the river ESKERSHANORE/DEERP Deputy of Ireland, connecting Lough ARK (ED KILCHREEST) erected a stone Adrehid and Lough (1783) bridge in 1570 to Aggraffard, west of take the main Dublin Oughterard in The crisp lettering of to Galway road over Connemara, is a this plaque is typical of the . Part modest, unnamed that employed on the of the fabric of that bridge of two unequal late eighteenth century bridge is retained arches. In 1952 it was bridges. It reads: ‘This within the structure renamed in honour of bridge Was Erected by of 1754. the famous production, William Persse Esquire

NIAH The Quiet Man, which [...] of the Roxburrow was partly filmed there. Volunteers in The year 1783 in Memory of Ireland’s Emancipation From Foreign (fig. 15) light was provided through a window in the Designed for carriages, carts and livestock, it is jurisdiction’. DOONMACREENA gable or at the eaves. Additional rooms could a testament to the remarkable skill and craft of BRIDGE Kinnakelly (and be added to the gable end of the house, the designers and builders that this and other Doonmacreena, extending it horizontally or by adding a first early bridges still carry modern traffic loads. Co. Mayo) floor. Outbuildings may also have been added A strong vernacular aspect is evident (c.1725) to the gable end of the house or placed at an in surviving eighteenth-century bridges This narrow bridge, angle to create a farmyard. in County Galway. At Doonmacreena the spanning the Dalgan While most thatched houses are in the narrowness of the arches and the simplicity River on the boundary with Mayo, has round countryside, some survive in towns and a few of the stonework suggest that it may be arches to its west face remain in Galway city. an early eighteenth-century or late and pointed to its In Ballinasloe, centuries of good quality seventeenth-century structure (fig. 15). The east. The house on the Mayo side, bridges over the River Suck helped to make it hump-backed bridge at Leam is a rubble-stone defending the bridge, a thriving midlands town with an international structure with irregular arches; rubble stone is of seventeenth and horse and livestock fair and a reliable stopover was also used on the parapet walls, early eighteenth- century date. point for livestock being moved from the which gives it a unique appearance (fig. 16). pastures of the west to markets in the east. In It is in a good state of preservation - and is c.1754 a new bridge was constructed now a tourist attraction because of its incorporating the fabric of a bridge of about association with The Quiet Man, the well 1570 so that ‘the business of the great fair will known 1952 film made by , starring

be carried on with more ease and less confusion John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara. NIAH than formerly’ (Dublin Journal, 1754) (fig. 14).

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 18) STREAMSTOWN MILL Streamstown or Barratrough (c.1780)

This substantial watermill stands close to the shore at Streamstown Bay, north-west of Clifden.

(fig. 20) WOODFORD WEIR Woodford (c.1800)

This fine rubble-built weir was restored about 1980 and is set diagonally across the Woodford River. It formerly served a corn mill that was later converted to provide electrical

NIAH power to the town.

(fig. 19) CARROWNABO Mills, kilns, weirs and other functional to generate energy for the corn mill and later (c.1750) buildings essential to the economic life of to provide street lighting prior to the arrival of

One of a group of eighteenth-century rural Galway were the rural electrification scheme. four in North Galway, generally modest in their design and use of During the eighteenth century the the windmill at materials. Most of the surviving mills were economic success of the city of Galway was Carrownabo, near , has the powered by water, although the stumps of declining as imports were coming through the cylindrical profile, windmills can be found in several places, good booming port of Dublin, and the county’s diametrically opposed examples being the two at Tuam (fig. 18-19). landed gentry were sending cattle to doorways and small slit windows that are Mills were often built close to bridges to and Munster for export. Galway’s docks had typical of eighteenth provide access to farmers from either side of become worn and even unsafe for unloading and early nineteenth- the river. In Woodford, a weir was built on a large shipments. The construction of Eyre’s century examples. tributary of the Shannon to service a corn mill Long Walk and Dock was an attempt to (fig. 20). Nearby a bridge was built with improve maritime facilities. The rubble-stone arches tall enough to ensure there was no quayside and dry dock were built in 1739 after change in the road level. The weir was used Edward Eyre enlarged the walkway by the

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 23) MAYORALTY HOUSE Saint Augustine Street Galway (fig. 22) (c.1760) THE GRAINSTORE Abbeygate Street Galway's finest Lower/Whitehall eighteenth-century Galway house, formerly the (c.1790) residence of the Lord Mayor, has well Detail of one of detailed limestone several substantial walls and an elegant warehouses in the doorcase. The timber- docks area of Galway mullioned basement City. The building is windows recall the ten bays long and six city's earlier storeys high. architecture.

(fig. 21) central breakfront exemplify grand classical (fig. 24) EYRE’S LONG WALK in the old city wall (fig. 21). SAINT 'S Long Walk designs and quality craftsmanship is evident in The dock was moderately successful and in NURSING HOME Galway 1760 shipments of flaxseed arriving from the stonework and decorative features on its Cloghballymore (1739) America helped to revive the local linen façade. The unknown architect included a eighteenth-century house at 27-29 William (c.1750) Stretching from the reference to the city’s medieval heritage by Street have a limestone façade of well-executed industry. However, at this time only twenty The main block of Fish Market and the sailing vessels were docking annually in the using mullions in the basement windows. masonry and some fine architectural details. Saint Columba's was Spanish Arch into the built by Marcus mouth of Galway port of Galway. Joyce House, on Church Lane, is another For gentry with substantial means, the Lynch of Barna. A Harbour proper, Eyre’s fine eighteenth-century house in the city that A relatively small number of significant eighteenth century was a time for building or later link connects to Long Walk is lined by buildings were constructed in Galway in the may have been built on the site of a late extending their country properties. Some a sixteenth-century houses and some towerhouse of the rubble-built eighteenth century compared with medieval house of the Joyce family: it has an incorporated their towerhouses into new Kilkelly family. The warehouses. developments in other Irish cities and towns. elaborately carved Joyce family crest with the developments to create a striking image of two house was in use as a One of those was Mayoralty House (c.1760) an inscribed date of 1786 and a reused medieval eras of domestic architecture. The sixteenth- missionary college ashlar limestone building that shows a clear window spandrel. Evidence of other century towerhouse at Saint Columba’s Nursing in the early twentieth century. aesthetic appreciation of the classical style that contemporary buildings in Galway can be seen Home is an important part of this much- was becoming fashionable in Ireland at the above shops or in decorative features on extended building (fig. 24). The adjoining time (fig. 23). The raised ground floor and façades. The upper storeys of a mid- two-storey building was built c.1750. Further

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 25) (fig. 27) CASTLE RAFORD HOUSE Monivea Demesne Raford (1713-15 and c.1860) (c.1760)

A long one-storey Raford was likely built block over a high in 1759 by Denis basement was added Daly Junior at the in 1713-15 to the time of his marriage front of this fifteenth- to Lady Anne Bourke century O'Kelly of Portumna Castle. It towerhouse. It was has a fine Diocletian raised slightly and window to the middle another block of the façade and a added behind the tripartite Venetian- tower c.1850. All but style entrance. the tower was demolished c.1940. Courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive

(fig. 26) NIAH CASTLE Killimor extensions maintained a uniform fenestration Elsewhere the restrained Georgian block was (c. 1550 and c.1725) and give the building a pleasing coherence. In a popular style for country houses. These were RAFORD HOUSE 1713, Monivea Castle was built by Patrick The first two bays of often of three storeys and almost as high as Killimor Castle are ffrench around a former O’Kelly towerhouse they were long, with diminishing windows and Detail of plasterwork to the ceiling and actually a medieval (fig. 25). The new house was originally a long quite severe façades. However, depending on towerhouse. In gallery of the c.1725 it was lowered, single-storey building with a two-storey the sophistication of the owner, the house entrance hall. extended to one end pedimented centre, with the old tower now at might be enlivened by classical proportions Courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive and the openings the rear. A first floor was added, possibly in the and decorative details that were being used by made symmetrical. The batter in the gable nineteenth century, with asymmetrical dormer the Palladians, including and straight joint windows. In 1938 the castle was bequeathed to and Richard Castle. Raford House has been between the middle the State and all but the towerhouse was attributed to Francis Bindon, an amateur and the right openings define the towerhouse. demolished. Killimor Castle is another architect who established a successful practice especially interesting multi-period house with in the mid-eighteenth century and was a towerhouse of the fifteenth or sixteenth influenced by Richard Castle (fig. 27). It is a century to which an eighteenth-century solid country house enlivened by favourite extension was added, the whole refenestrated features of the Palladians, including the to give the appearance of one period of fanlighted tripartite doorway and a Venetian- construction (fig. 26). style or Diocletian window above. Such

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 28) CASTLE FFRENCH CASTLE FFRENCH Castle ffrench (1779)

Castle ffrench is the archetypal medium- sized Irish country house. Built by Sir Charles ffrench, a , all façades have been carefully considered. The design has been compared to that of Bonnetstown, Co. . NIAH

laws to protect animals. It has been altered several times since it was first built. In the early nineteenth century, Harriet, Richard’s second wife, made plans to convert the

NIAH building from a plain house into a mansion and it is possible that the distinctive features were popularised by the availability of style characteristic of County Galway, with battlemented front was added at this time in ’s Quattro libri dell’architetturain foliage and trophies, and rather similar to the the contemporary Gothic Revival fashion. In English translation and T he Book of Architecture plasterwork at Castle ffrench, where delicate 1810, Richard Martin signed over the greater by James Gibbs, which contained detailed naturalistic foliage and flower swags, Irish part of his estate to his son, Thomas. drawings of architectural designs. The oculus harps and other emblems, flowers and birds When the writer, Maria Edgeworth, visited flanked by two windows on the upper floor of decorate the ceiling (fig. 28). In the far west Castle in 1833, she met Thomas Raford is a motif found in works by Richard of the county, was built Martin and his family and found a home

Castle. The roof originally had a balustrade. in 1754 by the Martin family, one of the bristling with contradictions. She wrote that NIAH The fashionable design and high quality of the house was ‘a whitewashed dilapidated ‘Tribes’ whose vast estates stretched CASTLE FFRENCH craftsmanship in the finely carved over mountain and bog in Connemara mansion with nothing of a castle about it of the doorcase is indicative of the wealth and (fig. 29). The substantial house was famously excepting four pepperbox-looking towers stuck The round-headed windows serve the on at each corner - very badly and sophistication of the Daly family who built the the home of Richard Martin MP (1754-1834), staircases. house. Inside, the plasterwork ceiling is of a nicknamed ‘Humanity Dick’ for his support of whitewashed; and all that battlemented front

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 29) BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE Ballynahinch (1754)

This palatial residence, set in a landscape of bog, lake and mountain, was built in 1754 by Richard Martin ('Humanity Dick'), founder of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, and MP for Galway. It was also the home of Laetitia Martin,'Princess of Connemara', and of 'Ranji', the celebrated cricketer.

BALLYNAHINCH CASTLE

The lakeside elevation: the house is on the higher is mere whitewashed stone or brick or mud... ceilings and passages terrible splotches and ground and the farm courtyard, now staff altogether the house is very low and ruinous blotches of damp and wet...’ Yet the warm accommodation, is looking...’ The ‘pepperbox-looking towers’ hospitality and elegance with which she and lower down. have since been removed. The interior, she her party were received, and the sumptuous said, was, ‘a rambling kind of mansion with dinner of venison, salmon, lobsters, oysters, great signs of dilapidation - broken panes, game, champagne and French wine delighted

wood panes, and slate panes, and in the her. NIAH

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 32) THE VOLUNTEER ARCH Belview or (fig. 31) Lissareaghaun CURRAVEHA OR (c.1790) BIRCHHALL (c.1800) Walter Lawrence of Bellevue erected this Standing near eye-catching Oughterard, this is a triumphal arch rare example of a gateway with paired dovecote in County lodges, at the Galway. Its octagonal western approach to form is also unusual. his demesne, in honour of the .

(fig. 30) triumphal arch gateway is flanked by square- ruins in the county, which provide interesting BALLYNAHINCH Thomas Martin died of fever after visiting Wealthy landlords like Richard Martin headed pedestrian entrances, with screen walls evidence of the original splendour of these CASTLE ESTATE some of his tenants in a workhouse during the constructed an assortment of buildings around BRIDGE connecting it to two pavilions, each of which buildings. was a large, square Great Famine. The house was purchased in Ballynahinch their demesnes. For example, small, single- conceals a gate-lodge (fig. 32). The arch is Palladian house built by Christopher ffrench St (c.1775) 1926 by the cricketer, Ranjit Sinjhi, and in storey gate-lodges, sometimes referred to as dated 1782 to commemorate the Bellevue George in 1779, reputedly to a design by John 1945 it was converted into a hotel. Despite the ‘classic boxes’ were commonly built on Galway This bridge serves Volunteers, one of many locally based Roberts of (fig. 33-4). The classically modifications, Ballynahinch retains an Ballynahinch Castle, estates; the grand demesnes, such as volunteer units that were formed to provide inspired detail in the three-storey central taking traffic across architectural splendour, enhanced by terraced Ballynahinch, were likely to have larger lodges anti-invasion and police duties while British breakfront can still be seen in the ruin. The the Owenmore River. gardens and other features commonly at their main entrance. Walter Lawrence built forces were occupied by the American War. upper triple window is framed by short fluted associated with the large demesnes of the an especially grand entrance at Bellevue, near The subsequent decline of some of the large pilasters on console brackets and there is an eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Lawrencetown: the freestanding limestone eighteenth-century houses has left remarkable enriched Venetian-style window below. A high

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 33) TYRONE HOUSE Tyrone (1779)

This photograph of c.1890 shows Tyrone House before it was burnt down by a local unit of the IRA in 1920, having been used as a base of operations by the Black and Tans. The design of the house built for Christopher St George, is attributed to John Roberts of Waterford. (fig. 35) (fig. 36) Courtesy of the Irish CLONBROCK HOUSE CLONBROCK HOUSE Architectural Archive TYRONE HOUSE Clonbrock Demesne (1780-88) The stableyard. Entrance hall. pillared portico framed the front door. Inside, Courtesy of the Irish This house was (fig. 34) there was a life-size statue of one of the lords Architectural Archive designed by William TYRONE HOUSE Leeson for Robert St George in the hall in a niche surmounted Dillon, first Lord by a coronet and festoon. The elevated site, The ruined shell. Clonbrock to replace which afforded the residents of the house a castle that had stood here. The house beautiful views of the surrounding countryside, was sold in 1976 and attracted the attention of the Black and Tans: the contents classical medallions and husk ornament on the block and two projecting pavilions with bows it was rumoured that they planned to use it as auctioned off. The building was walls of the hall, and an oval ceiling of at either end (fig. 37). By the 1820s, it had an infirmary. It was subsequently burned by destroyed by fire in particularly graceful plasterwork. Dillon died fallen into a state of disrepair and a restoration the IRA in 1920. 1984 and has been a in 1795. His son Luke added the handsome project was completed by 1826 during which Clonbrock House was altered in the ruin since. Doric portico designed by John Hampton to time Gothic Revival features were added, nineteenth century but retained the essence of the house in c.1824; Hampton used stone including crenellated parapets, pinnacles and its original construction until it was destroyed quarried in Galway rather than in Ballinasloe quatrefoils on the end pavilions. In the early by fire in 1984 (figs. 35-6). It was built to the because he considered it finer. Clonbrock had twentieth century, lead off the roof was sold to design of an amateur architect, William Leeson a large family and, in the mid-nineteenth pay gambling debts and the house fell into (d.1805), in 1780-8, for Robert Dillon, century, he added a bow-ended drawing room, ruin; it was given a brief facelift in the early afterwards first Lord Clonbrock. Dillon was which softened the typically four-square Irish 1970s when it was re-roofed and refenestrated getting married and chose to move out of his austerity of the house. for use in the British spy thriller film, The cramped quarters annexed to an old Ardfry House, built in c.1780 on the site of Mackintosh Man, starring Paul Newman. towerhouse. The interior plasterwork of the an earlier Blake family castle, is another Ardfry House is situated on a peninsula jutting 1780s was in the manner of Michael Stapleton, striking ruin. It was an elegant and well- into Galway Bay and is visible from some a very successful Dublin-based stuccadore, with NIAH proportioned house with a nine-bay central distance away.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 38) COOLE PARK Coole Demesne (c.1785)

Coole Park, the home of , was a key meeting place of the Literary Revival. She is seated in this photograph of 1896, with Sir William to her right. The Land Commission demolished the house in 1941. Courtesy of Colin Smythe NIAH (fig. 39) (fig. 37) COOLE PARK VISITOR Only the plinth of Coole Park (c.1785) breakfronts, pediments, Venetian-style ARDFRY HOUSE CENTRE survives but even this is important because of windows and Gibbsian surrounds on the Ardfry (c.1785) the association of the house with Augusta, openings. The bow was a marked feature of (c.1780, altered c.1820) The stable block of Lady Gregory, who entertained many visitors the period and there are several examples of Coole Park. including the poets and playwrights W.B. these in County Galway. Innisfail (c.1720) and Ardfry House, Yeats, George Bernard Shaw and Sean O’Casey Streamstown House (c.1780) both have a standing on the site of a Blake castle, was (figs. 38-9). With reference to Palladianism, pronounced bow on the front elevation; Gothicised by 1826. the entrance front of the three-storey block Newtown House (c.1730) built by the Browne In the early twentieth had a Diocletian window above a Venetian- family, another of the Tribes, is an imposing century the lead from the roof was sold to style window. The land was sold to the house with a bow-fronted central bay to the pay for gambling Department of Lands in 1927 and the house rear (fig. 40). Lisdonagh House (1800) debts and the house demolished in 1941. The demesne is now a is unusual in that it has bows on the front became a ruin. The doorway was removed national heritage centre managed by the and the rear elevations; it was also to Comerford House, National Parks and Wildlife Service. built over a basement, which created an Galway about 1947. Most eighteenth-century Galway country elevated entrance door and provided houses were middle sized and usually designed space for kitchens and other functional with classical proportions. Their exterior spaces required by the servants façades may have been enlivened with (fig. 41).

fashionable architectural features such as NIAH

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 42) MOYLOUGH HOUSE Moylough More (c.1800)

This relatively modest country house stands in the village of Moylough, its entrance bay articulated by a shallow breakfront. It was apparently built as the rectory for the parish. NIAH

(fig. 40) (fig. 41) INNISFAIL LISDONAGH HOUSE The Mall Lisdonagh (fig. 43) Eyrecourt (c.1760) MALMORE (c.1720) Ardbear The arrangement of (c.1792) Standing on the chimneys at approach to Eyrecourt Lisdonagh is similar The pedimented Castle, Innisfail is to that of portico of this villa, notable for its bow- Bermingham House, near Clifden, gives it fronted façade. Its near Tuam, and its an imposing heavy chimneystack bowed entrance bay appearance. The might suggest an is typical of many house was the earlier date. Galway houses. summer residence of James O’Sullivan, in 1890-1913.

Ecclesiastical buildings that survive intact the church-building boom of the nineteenth from eighteenth-century Galway are modest century. Therefore those few that survive are structures, with simple design and important. They include the simple, single- LISDONAGH HOUSE LISDONAGH HOUSE construction. As the Penal Laws were modified bay mortuary chapel in the graveyard at An Spidéal () dated 1776 and the single-cell Stairwell at the rear. in the mid-eighteenth century, Catholics began to build churches again but many of these barn Roman Catholic church of Saint Corban’s structures were subsequently replaced during in Killeen (c.1800) which has Y-tracery, stained

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 44) (fig. 45) MARTIN MORTUARY PRESENTATION CHAPEL CONVENT Spiddle West Presentation Road An Spidéal (Spiddal) Galway (1776) (1748)

Stephen Martin This classical building erected this mortuary with a pedimented chapel in 1776 in the three-bay breakfront old graveyard at An was built as a charter (fig. 46) Spidéal. school. Later it served SAINT MATTHEW’S as a military barracks CHURCH OF IRELAND and a fever hospital, CHURCH before standing Glenloughaun empty for a period. (c.1700, c.1820 and The Presentation c.1900) Sisters moved into it in 1819. The nave of Saint Courtesy of Galway Matthew’s church was City Council built around 1700. The tower was added by the Board of First Fruits in the early nineteenth century and the chancel about 1900.

glass and other decorative features (fig. 44). St Lawrence’s Catholic church (c.1760) in design common to churches funded by the Lissanard West is now a farm store but retains Board of First Fruits, a body that assisted the the remains of Y-tracery and stained glass. building and repair of Church of Ireland Another former eighteenth-century church is churches. The Board of First Fruits tower and Saint Kerrill’s in Gorteen (1796); the lancet- the plinth of the nave are all that remains of headed entrance is a detail that announces that Monivea Church of Ireland church (1759). The this derelict building was once a place of nave roof collapsed in 1955 and the south-east worship. corner of the bell tower was removed by a Several multiphase Church of Ireland lightning strike in 1979. Saint John the Baptist churches have identifiable eighteenth-century Church of Ireland church in Deerpark is features. Saint Matthew’s Church of Ireland another multi-period ruin with an early church at Glenloughan, near Ballinasloe, has a eighteenth-century tower while the nave dates two-bay nave, pointed-arch windows and from c.1830. Y-tracery, and was built c.1700; the tower was interesting mausolea and monuments to be added in 1820 and the chancel and sacristy MARTIN MORTUARY CHAPEL seen around the county include the impressive

c.1900 (fig. 46). The tower is a distinctive Trench Mausoleum, near Woodlawn, and the NIAH

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AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY The Eighteenth Century

(fig. 47) (fig. 48) TRENCH CILL ÉINNE (Killeany) MAUSOLEUM Árainn (Inis Mór) Moneyveen (c.1753) Woodlawn (c.1790) This group of three cenotaphs stands on a Frederick Trench built hillside close to this mausoleum, one Killeany Lodge and of the largest in overlooking the Ireland. His tomb lies harbour at Cill in the tower that Rónáin. They are stands at the centre dedicated to the of a circular enclosure memory of members with crenellated walls. of the Fitzpatrick Each crenellation has family who died a pointed-arch between 1709 and opening with a 1754. limestone plaque underneath. NIAH

pyramidal-topped cenotaphs on Árainn, overlooking the harbour at Cill Rónáin TRENCH (figs. 47-8) MAUSOLEUM

By the end of the eighteenth century, the NIAH development of County Galway’s architectural CILL ÉINNE (Killeany) heritage had been modest. Fashionable modes found expression in city buildings and country This plaque reads: houses but they were few in number and ‘Pray for the soul of Denis Fitzpatrick who unremarkable in scale. Much of the domestic dyed the 28[th] day construction was vernacular but functional of December 1753 structures such as mills and churches aged 23 years’. incorporated aspects of contemporary architectural design with the traditional building styles. Social upheaval, prosperity, famine and extended government control in the nineteenth century would variously see a significant growth in building and NIAH NIAH infrastructure in the county. NIAH

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(fig. 52) The Nineteenth Century DÚN ÁRANN Eochaill (Oghil) Árainn (Inis Mór) (fig. 49) (c.1804) GORT This Napoleonic-era Ordnance Survey map fortress on Árainn shows the town of comprises a Gort as it was in rectangular tower and 1841. a lighthouse within a Reproduced courtesy of walled compound and Trinity College Dublin stands prominently at the highest point of The early nineteenth century was a period the island. of economic growth and population increase. (fig. 51) It was also a time of considerable urban MARTELLO TOWER NIAH development in which local landowners Esker ( by.) influenced the layout of the streets and the (c.1810) design and construction of the buildings. Such

was the case in Gort where a vibrant market The Martello tower on town was developed under the direction of the the Shannon at the Galway end of the Vereker family of Lough Cutra. The relative bridge at Banagher spaciousness of Gort’s Market Square and the was one of a series width of the surrounding streets make a built during the Napoleonic era to contrast with the more intimate layout of a discourage a French medieval town such as Athenry (fig. 49). invasion at a time of During this period, the terraces of houses tension between Britain and France.

(fig. 50) along two sides of the triangular Market Square NIAH BRIDGE STREET were built and although the details of the Gort buildings differ, there is continuity in the Prosperity returned to Galway city as the expanded from two to twenty-three (fig. 53). (c.1860) streetscape with their dark pitched roofs and Napoleonic wars brought economic Multi-storey warehouses with rows of small Gort is notable for its the use of Georgian proportions in the opportunities - and potential danger - to the windows in grey limestone walls were built on streets of fine three- fenestration. Features such as the Gibbsian region. Martello towers and other defensive narrow streets in Galway city; fine storey houses. surrounds on doorways, tripartite timber sash structures were constructed in strategic craftsmanship is evident around the windows, windows, chimneystacks on party walls and the locations including island and inland sites doors, carriage arches, eaves and other irregular height of the buildings add variety to (figs. 51-2). At the same time, demand for Irish architectural features of these distinctive the streetscape. The ground floors of many of beef, wool and wheat grew and a new breed of buildings. the houses have been converted into shops but industrialists took advantage of the Work on improving access and shelter in the retention of architectural features, opportunities it presented. They harnessed the Galway Harbour began in 1822 with a project especially on the upper storeys, contributes to fall and rapid flow of the River Corrib as a that became known as Nimmo’s Pier (fig. 54). making this an important nineteenth-century potential source of power and, between 1790 It was designed by Alexander Nimmo to

NIAH market square (fig. 50). and 1820, the number of flour mills in Galway facilitate the Claddagh fishing fleet at low tide.

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FISH MARKET, Ballynahinch Castle: ‘The horses, the moment NUNS' (SUGAR) GALWAY, they set their feet upon it, sank up to their ISLAND, GALWAY c.1890 knees and, whipped and spurred, struggled and This Lawrence view The quay in Galway, floundered, and the carriage, as we inside emphasises the with small boats in passengers felt, sank and sank.’ Local people ubiquity of water in the foreground, and Galway city centre. trading ships behind came to the aid of her party. She added, ‘We Branches of the the buildings. The had continually seen, to increase our sense of Corrib run Spanish Arch, part of vexation, Nimmo’s new road looking like a each side of Nuns' the medieval city Island, feeding the defences, is right of gravel walk running often parallel to our path large mills. A millrace centre, and the of danger, and yet for want of being finished runs along the right precarious precursor there it was, useless and most tantalising.’ In hand side of the of the William O'Brien photo. Bridge crosses the 1833, a year after Nimmo’s death, only one Courtesy of the Corrib. short stretch of road awaited completion. National Courtesy of the During the 1820s Nimmo built harbours Library of Ireland National Library of Ireland from Leenane Pier to Kinvara, and on the Aran Islands. He had an unerring eye for selecting (fig. 53) the most suitable site in relation to the tides, (fig. 54) NIMMO’S PIER ISLAND HOUSE winds and need for shelter and so most of Gaol Road Claddagh Quay Galway these structures are still in use. His work on Galway (c.1840) the harbour in Roundstone led to the (c.1830) development of this popular fishing village. A This former flour mill Alexander Nimmo stands at an offshoot quay was built in 1822 with walls of rough designed and gave his of the Eglinton Canal. local granite blocks; the coping stones of hewn name to this long Its symmetrical pier that thrusts out limestone were shipped over from the Aran elevation, with flanking into Galway Bay at lower blocks, makes it Islands. On a flight of granite steps down the the Claddagh. It has distinctive. face of the wharf, one step of limestone has battered limestone walls that give it been inserted to identify the half-tide mark as protection against the a guide for fishermen. Atlantic. While the original quay was under The pier is a structure of outstanding commenced the road improvement scheme construction, Nimmo purchased the lease of engineering, which retains original mooring between Oughterard and Clifden. He some land at his own expense and set about bollards and has finely cut, sloping ashlar established a base in Maam, where he built a establishing a village on the steep slope. stonework on the seaward face of the pier. The house with offices and stores overlooking his Within a few years, the village took shape and, same year Nimmo was appointed engineer to bridge spanning the Bealnabrack River. as the buildings took the natural features into the Western District, which included The challenge that faced Nimmo and his account, an interesting and unique streetscape Connemara, and there followed a period of team was evident in the writer Maria was created. It is also notable that many of intense work prior to his untimely death, at Edgeworth’s description of the bridle track the houses dating from the 1820s to the 1840s the age of forty-nine, in 1832. He designed that predated the new road. In 1833, she were of two storeys; John Nimmo, brother of and supervised the construction of piers and wrote about encountering one of the many Alexander, who lived here from 1826 to 1844, harbours along the Galway coastline and boggy sections on a trip from Oughterard to

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ROUNDSTONE, c. 1900

This Lawrence photograph shows the village and harbour established by Nimmo from 1826 onward, with Saint Mary's church on the horizon, the Presbyterian church, now gone, to its right, and the Dominican monastery at the coast. (fig. 56) Courtesy of the JOHN D’ARCY TOMB National Christ Church Library of Ireland Sky Road Clifden (1839)

John D’Arcy’s unusual but humble tomb at Clifden overlooks the NIAH town he founded. (fig. 57) JOHN D’ARCY gave a grant to every man who built a house D’Arcy stipulated that all of the houses in the MONUMENT (fig. 55) with an upper storey. town were to be painted and whitewashed Clifden CLIFDEN HARBOUR (c.1840) Clifden The growth of Clifden was also influenced every year. This gave the town a smart (1822-31) by this active period of infrastructural appearance. By the late 1830s, there were The monument development in Connemara. The town was thirty shops, a bridewell, a courthouse and a erected by the people John D’Arcy (1785- of Clifden to the established by John D’Arcy (1785-1839) and population of 2000. 1839), founder of founder of their town. Clifden, insisted on grew rapidly from 1822 until the Great Famine Elsewhere in the county there was a Its setting, on the top the construction of in 1845-9. In 1822 there were a few cabins major drive to strengthen the maritime of a hill to the south- this quay as a relief west of the town, is work. It was designed and one house at the site; within twenty years infrastructure, with the construction of dozens an ideal vantage by Alexander Nimmo. there was a prosperous town with a pier, roads of piers and the provision of lighthouses and point for viewing and employment. Clifden Quay was started coastguard stations to make navigation safer D’Arcy’s creation. as a relief work in 1822 on the insistence of and to safeguard tax revenues (figs. 58-62). D’Arcy but was not completed until 1831 The Eglinton Canal (1848-52), linking (fig. 55). On the quayside is a warehouse built Lough Corrib to Galway Bay, also provided to complement the trade passing through the work at a critical time (figs. 64-5). For harbour. Access to the harbour was always centuries, a series of sharp rapids had made limited due to the shallowness of the channel, this link impassable to all but small boats and which is now largely used by pleasure craft. improved access had long been the ambition

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(fig. 58) (fig. 63) ANNAGHDOWN SALMON WATCH QUAY HOUSE Annaghdown Townparks (St (c.1875) Nicholas’ par.) Galway This quay, on the (c.1870) shore of Lough Corrib, is of rubble An Italianate watch limestone and widens tower was built on at the end that faces the side of the River into the lake. It Corrib in Galway to served fishermen and protect the fisheries.

the transport of NIAH It was later in use as goods around the NIAH a fisheries museum NIAH lake. (fig. 62) and is accessed by a (fig. 60) BALLINTLEVA footbridge off William Inis Oírr ( By.) O’Brien Bridge. (1857-8) (c.1890) (fig. 59) CÉIBH BHEARNA This well wrought One of a group of (Barna Quay) (fig. 64) granite lighthouse, coastguard stations Freeport EGLINTON CANAL with keepers' houses, on the coast of Bearna (Barna) Townparks (Rahoon (fig. 65) standing on the south Connemara lies ruined (c.1820) par.)/Townparks (St OPENING OF THE side of Inis Oírr and at the landward end Nicholas’ par.) EGLINTON CANAL built in 1857, was of this well detailed This fine quay was Galway designed by George pier at the east side built in 1820, perhaps (1848-52) The Earl of Eglinton Halpin Junior. He of Bay. by Nimmo, and the opened the canal was also responsible revetment was added One of the many named after him on for the lights on the about 1900. waterways of Galway 28th August 1852. nearby Oileán City, the Eglinton Samuel Ussher Roberts Iarthach (Rock Island), Canal was constructed of the Board of Works and Fastnet Rock. in the middle of the was the engineer. nineteenth century to Illustration from the provide a safer Illustrated London alternative to the News. (fig. 61) River Corrib. MUTTON ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE Mutton Island Galway Bay (1817)

The diminutive lighthouse on Mutton Island has an integral keeper’s house and a later second house, forming an interesting and visually appealing group. NIAH NIAH

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of promoters of various navigation schemes. (fig. 68) Commenced under the direction of Board of BALLINASLOE RAILWAY STATION Works engineer and architect, Samuel Ussher Station Road Roberts (1821-1900), it was constructed of local Ballinasloe limestone and is just over one kilometre long (1851) with two locks. Though well designed and George Wilkinson, expertly constructed, the canal never better known for successfully competed with the railway and, as workhouse buildings, designed the station time went on, with road transport. By the complex at Ballinasloe 1950s low bridges were built across the canal, in his trademark (fig. 66) obstructing navigation. Tudor Revival style. CEANNT STATION The unusually tall and The railway line between Galway and Station Road decorative grouped Galway Dublin was completed in 1851 by the Midland chimneystacks (1851) Great Western Railway Company (MGWR). punctuate the building’s strong The private companies that developed the The noted architect horizontal emphasis. J.S. Mulvany was railways also designed and built stations and responsible for associated buildings to a high standard to Ceannt Station, a reassure passengers that rail travel was safe and classical design animated by respectable. Ceannt Station, off Eyre Square in alternating recessed Galway, was designed by an established Irish and advanced bays, MEYRICK HOTEL with a canopy architect, J.S. Mulvany (1813-70), and was built The badge of the covering the in the classical style of public buildings Midland Great recessed entrance. (fig. 66). The handsome building runs parallel Western Railway of The heavy cornice to Ireland, on a jamb of this low building to the railway platform, which gives the small the marble fireplace gives it a somewhat station a grandeur befitting an important city in the foyer of the oppressive character. rail terminus. Meyrick Hotel.

(fig. 67) Mulvany also designed the monumental the design of country stations tended to be in some MEYRICK HOTEL Meyrick Hotel in Eyre Square for the MGWR form of Gothic or Tudor Revival style to emulate Eyre Square Galway (fig. 67). In the 1850s the number of trans- familiar town structures such as churches and (c.1855) Atlantic ships docking in Galway Harbour was schoolhouses. The ornate central section of the station increasing and the company hoped that their building in Ballinasloe is attributed to George Hemans, Mulvany also designed this very railway to Dublin would become a recognised an experienced railway engineer employed by the large railway hotel section of the route between North America MGWR, and has attractive detailing around the that dominates the and Britain. The hotel was designed to windows, in the moulding under the eaves and in the east side of Eyre Square. accommodate an influx of passengers which, stone chimneys (fig. 68). George Wilkinson, who had however, never materialised in the numbers been architect to three railway companies after he the company had planned for. retired from the Poor Law Commission in 1855, was In contrast to the classicism of city stations, engaged in 1859 to extend this station.

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(fig. 72) BANAGHER BRIDGE Esker (1841-3)

Designed by Thomas (fig. 70) Rhodes of the COUNTY GALWAY Shannon VEC Commissioners and Station Road built by William Athenry MacKenzie, the six- (c.1870) arch Banagher Bridge stands at one of the This former railway ancient crossing hotel displays points of the River excellent details in Shannon, replacing a NIAH carved stone and seventeen-arch wood, and classical- structure of c.1690.

NIAH style in its pedimented gables. (fig. 69) ATHENRY RAILWAY STATION Station Road (fig. 73) Athenry (fig. 71) SALMON WEIR BRIDGE (1851) BALLYNAHINCH Gaol Road/Waterside/ RAILWAY STATION Newtownsmith Athenry’s railway Cloonbeg Galway station is a (1818) particularly fine The signal cabin at

complex of buildings NIAH Ballynahinch, on the This fine seven-arch executed in cut now disused Galway bridge was built to (fig. 74) limestone and brick. to Clifden railway connect the old gaol, at ARDBEAR BRIDGE The station house has line, photographed the site of the present Ardbear a more human scale c.1900. Catholic cathedral, with (c.1820) than those at Galway ATHENRY RAILWAY Courtesy of the the courthouse. The weir or Ballinasloe and the STATION National Library of beyond, constructed This bridge of two brackets to the Ireland between 1952 and widely spaced arches platform canopy add Detail of bracket 1959, is the largest in is situated at the decorative whimsy. under canopy. Ireland. entrance to the tidal Ardbear salt lake. It is of a type common in Connemara that incorporates a causeway and was Stations, waiting rooms and associated designed to open up the district south of hotels were carefully designed, while the During the nineteenth century some fine Shannon at Banagher, connecting Galway and Clifden. bridges and viaducts often demonstrate superb classical multi-arched bridges were erected. The Offaly, was built in 1841-3 (figs. 72-3). stone masonry. At the same time railway Salmon Weir Bridge in Galway, built to link the Many bridges and causeways were built engineers developed sophisticated techniques city gaol with the courthouse, was built in through Connemara espically over inlets in tunnelling and land-cutting (figs. 69-71). 1818 and the not dissimilar bridge over the (figs. 74-5).

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(fig. 75) GLENCOAGHAN/ (c.1830)

This picturesquely sited bridge spans the Owenmore or Ballinahinch River at a NIAH stretch called ‘The Canal’ on what was (fig. 77) originally known as HALIFAX BANK the ‘New Centre 19 Eyre Square NIAH Connemara Road’ Galway designed by (fig. 76) (1863) Alexander Nimmo. It WILLIAM STREET, displays a variety of GALWAY The former National stone-working types bank in Galway is to a and unusual short This view shows the design of William buttresses. centre of Galway’s Caldbeck in the shopping district, typically Italianate which is also the style of bank buildings heart of the medieval of its era, with city. The corner of elaborate entrances Lynch’s Castle is enhanced by carved NIAH visible at left. ‘Zerep’ human heads. has two medieval plaques highlighted in colour and ‘Powell & Sons’ on the right is of similar date. Lynch’s Castle stands on the conor at left foreground. Happily, F. O’DEA all of these buildings Main Street are in use today. Kinvara (c.1850) Many of the buildings of the county’s urban areas were constructed in the nineteenth century. Commercial buildings, such as shops and public houses, as well as market buildings and town halls date to this era and form the familiar streetscapes with which we are familiar (figs. 76-81).

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(fig. 82) GALWAY COURTHOUSE Courthouse Square Galway (1812-15)

Galway Courthouse is a formidable structure designed by Richard Morrison. Its stands across the Corrib NIAH from the site of the (fig. 79) former County Gaol, T. LALLY the latter’s site now Market Square occupied by the city’s Gort cathedral. The heavy (c.1840) cornice to the Doric portico bears lion T. Lally’s has a masks over the NIAH modest timber columns and the shopfront with simply (fig. 80) panels to the flanking divided display THE CRANE HOUSE bays are sculpted windows. Metal bars Market Square with the scales of protected the glass Gort justice. on market days. (c.1880) (fig. 78) The expansion of government policing led Gort has retained its O’CONNELL’S to the construction of courthouses, bridewells Eyre Square crane house, a Galway building containing and barracks for the County Police, established (1862) the machinery that in 1822, later renamed the Royal Irish operated a Constabulary. Courthouses were generally O’Connell’s public weighbridge during house has a frontage the late nineteenth built in the prevailing classical style. Galway typical of the latter and early twentieth courthouse (1812-15) is an imposing building half of the nineteenth centuries. designed by Richard Morrison and built on the century: relatively large display windows (fig. 81) site of the former Franciscan abbey (fig. 82). and canted TUAM TOWN HALL The Doric portico has an unusually heavy entranceways with Market Square/High entablature, which helped to create an image ornate gold lettering Street to the fascia. Tuam of importance and severity. It achieved the (1884) desired result; James Hardiman reported that

Tuam’s town hall when the building opened for two judges of illustrates the growing the assize, ‘Justices Fletcher and Osborne... importance of pronounced a handsome and well-merited municipal organisation towards the end of eulogium on the gentlemen of the county, for the nineteenth so unequivocal and splendid a testimonial of century. The tower their high respect for the laws, and of their stands at the junction of two of Tuam’s anxiety for the due and orderly administration main streets.

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(fig. 83) GORT COURTHOUSE Market Square Gort (c.1815)

One of the finest urban public buildings in County Galway, the courthouse at Gort has an arcaded façade in the manner of a market house, with an (fig. 84) open vestibule. The MAAM COURTHOUSE breakfront to the first Moneenmore floor lines up with (c.1870) the jambs of the arched recesses of the Close to Alexander ground floor. Nimmo’s bridge and former office at Maam is this diminutive temple-style courthouse of rather severe appearance.

LOUGHREA COURTHOUSE Fairgreen Loughrea (c.18150)

of public justice.’ The substantial carving of the royal coat of arms, which had been placed on top of the portico, was removed after Independence and re-erected in the grounds of the university. Other courthouses are more modest in design, those in Gort and Maam

NIAH being particularly notable (figs. 83-4).

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(fig. 85) Classical design was also used in bridewells (fig. 86) BALLINASLOE COURTHOUSE WOODFORD and police stations (figs. 85-6). The façades of AND BRIDEWELL (c.1800) these functional buildings were usually sombre. Society Street Ballinasloe However, the exterior of the bridewell in The former bridewell (c.1840) Ballinasloe (c.1840) is distinguished by cut- at Woodford is modest in scale and stone dressings, a Diocletian window and The courthouse at Ballinasloe its façade is rather is a typical provincial type, pedimented breakfront to the front façade. domestic in character. designed by William Caldbeck. It is enhanced by its recessed openings with their varied timber windows. An accompanying bridewell is visible at the left of the photograph.

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(fig. 87) SAINT BRIGID’S HOSPITAL Church Street Ballinasloe (1833)

Ballinasloe’s former mental hospital was designed in a classic X-plan, influenced by the ‘panoptic’ prison concept. The governor, his family and the warders occupied a central block, off which radiated the wings, from which they could monitor and administer life within the institution, all traffic having to pass through the centre block. The complex at Ballinasloe was executed by William Murray, based on an earlier design by Francis Johnston.

(fig. 88) SAINT BRENDAN’S breakfront that rises into the cupola. From the construction of workhouses throughout the HOSPITAL Institutional buildings were also constructed to Knockanima there the wings for patients radiated out, country (figs. 88-90). The English architect, assist the sick and destitute. Saint Brigid’s (1842) allowing the activity of the institution to be George Wilkinson (1814-90), was appointed as Hospital in Ballinasloe (1833) is an especially viewed from the middle block; access from one architect to the Poor Law Commissioners in Loughrea’s former fine public building designed by William workhouse, now a wing to the other was only possible by passing 1839 and within eight years, 130 workhouses Murray and based on an earlier design by hospital, lies at the through the centre. Like other buildings in had been built around Ireland to a standard renowned Irish architect, Francis Johnson east side of the lake Ballinasloe, it was constructed of local design in a Tudor domestic idiom with that gives the town (fig. 87) (1760-1829) . The plans for this its name. The long limestone, which is hard and of very good picturesque gabled entrance buildings. Inside, classical-style building were influenced by the range in this quality and takes carving very well. however, the workhouses were uninviting, with ‘panoptic’ prison concept: the governor, his photograph shows the The Poor Law Act of 1838, by which earthen floors, whitewashed unplastered walls main block, with family and staff would have lived in the higher two-bay property owners were to support the and platforms instead of beds. The main elegant five-bay entrance block with a double-gable ends. local people who were destitute, led to buildings were usually three or four storeys

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(fig. 89) (fig. 90) GORT WORKHOUSE PORTUMNA UNION Road WORKHOUSE Gort Portumna (1848) (c.1850)

The master’s house at Portumna’s workhouse Gort displays the remains complete, Tudor Revival style although many of the associated with Irish buildings are in need workhouse complexes. of repair. It was one Under the label- of the last such moulding is inscribed complexes, being the date of built after the foundation. Great Famine of the 1840s, and was intended to accommodate 600 people.

high with segregated accommodation for men built until as late as 1853. Many of the NIAH and women. The central blocks were in an H- workhouses have since been adapted for use as shaped plan with communal chapel, dining hospitals or other public functions. In halls and other facilities. The entrance lodge Portumna (1852), some sections of the was separate from the main building, as were workhouse complex are used for storage by the the infirmary and fever wards. As the Great County Council but internal features still Famine worsened, workhouses became survive, including the low platforms on which PORTUMNA UNION WORKHOUSE dangerously overcrowded. Clifden Workhouse the residents slept (fig. 90). The workhouse at was designed to have 300 residents but in 1847 , another of the late workhouses there were 800 people in it. Further (1852), became one of the early rural accommodation was added and fever hospitals vocational schools in Ireland in 1932. were built. Additional plainer workhouses were

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(fig. 91) (fig. 92) NATIONAL UNIVERSITY OF College Road IRELAND, GALWAY Galway University Road (1815) Galway (1846-50) This former Erasmus Smith school, by Christ Church College, Richard Morrison, Oxford inspired replaced one of John B. Keane's design 1699 that stood at of Galway's university the site of Galway quadrangle, the Courthouse. It is 'Gothick' theme seen notable for its H-plan, in corner turrets, classical details and pinnacled buttresses good quality and multifoil window limestone doorway forms. and panelled mullioned windows.

The aula maxima has an ornate traceried Economies are evident in the construction of five-light window. The construction of the university buildings in Galway was one of the projects that the quadrangle: niches, pinnacles and other employed hundreds of workers at the height of features shown in the architectural drawings of the Great Famine. The Gothick (rather than the west elevation published in 1848 were Gothic Revival) quadrangle (1846-50) was omitted in the execution. designed by John Benjamin Keane (d.1859) The establishment of schools prior to the who had trained at the Board of Works and Education Act of 1831 was left to landlords, was, at one stage, an assistant to Richard and religious or other bodies. The Yeats Morrison (fig. 91). It is loosely based on the College in Galway (1815), built as a grammar renowned Gothic architecture of Christchurch school by the Erasmus Smith Trust, was one of College, Oxford. The courtyard is overlooked the grandest of these schools (fig. 92). It was by the impressive Aula Maxima, numerous designed by Richard Morrison and has a turrets and the bell tower, which is loosely classical façade with elegant details such as the modelled on Tom Tower, also at Christ Church. tripartite Diocletian windows on the end bays.

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(fig. 93) (fig. 95) ESKER NATIONAL TOBERROE SCHOOL NATIONAL SCHOOL Esker Toberroe West (1858) (1888)

Just west of Banagher One of the larger Bridge is this estate- rural schools in built national school County Galway, this in the Tudor Revival example is enhanced style. A pleasant by the retention of its appearance achieved timber windows. by the use of slightly different colours of limestone.

(fig. 96) GREGORY MUSEUM Kiltartan (1892)

(fig. 94) Schools continued to be built by private This former school LEAM NATIONAL was designed by bodies and individuals but after 1831 the SCHOOL Francis Persse, Leam East national school system gave rise to a brother-in-law of Sir (1877) comprehensive programme of school William Gregory who commissioned it. construction in parishes around the county This modest rural Distinctive character school was at one (figs. 93-6). They were usually small and is provided by the time used as a domestic in scale and appearance, which use of red brick and church. It stands close terracotta, and the to the Quiet Man allowed them to merge pleasantly into the whole is enhanced by Bridge. landscape. They were also built to standard the varied forms of designs that changed little over the decades: the building’s parts. they were one, two or three-roomed buildings; windows were generally in the Georgian pattern and were set high in the walls to allow light in but not to distract the children by allowing them to see outside; and there were usually separate entrances for the boys and girls. Many of these schools have since been converted into private houses.

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(fig. 97) INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL Letterfrack (1887)

This industrial school has some good (fig. 98) a shop, school, limestone details. LETTERFRACK dispensary, However, the INDUSTRIAL SCHOOL temperance hotel, and institution, established WORKERS’ HOUSES this row of workers' by the Christian Letterfrack houses. Brothers, developed (c.1850) They became part of an appalling the industrial school reputation for the In the 1840s-50s at and were used for mistreatment of the Letterfrack James and teaching crafts boys in its care. Mary Ellis established and trades. Closed in 1973, it is now in community NIAH use. NIAH

(fig. 99) (fig. 100) SAINT JOSEPH’S CONVENT OF MERCY CONVENT Cross Street Saint Brigid’s Avenue Loughrea Portumna (c.1880) (1891-3) This large convent building was designed Saint Joseph's is a by J.J. O’Callaghan in classic example of a the typical Gothic late nineteenth- Revival style of the century convent. period. It has some The Tudor-arch fine sculpted details windows, advanced to its entrance porch. end bays, and integral chapel are all NIAH typical, and the In Letterfrack, the Christian Brothers built contrast between limestone and (fig. 97) a large, two-storey industrial school for boys in Convents are a strong feature of the churches became more elaborate. The simple OLD yellow brick, and 1887. This gained notoriety for the MONASTERY ornate treatment of expansion of the Catholic Church in the later barn-style, single-cell churches were replaced HOTEL mistreatment of children sent there and the openings, gives nineteenth century. Saint Joseph’s (1891-3) in by larger churches, many placed on prominent aesthetic appeal. Letterfrack institution was closed in 1973. It is now used Portumna is a very good example, enhanced by sites and incorporating the confident features (c.1849) for local community development and the contrast between its limestone walls and of the Gothic Revival. High-quality timber educational purposes. Its austere appearance brick dressings (fig. 99). roofs were constructed and stained-glass has been softened by the use of colour on the Church buildings in the nineteenth century windows were added as money became front elevation that highlights the architectural were supported by donations from all sectors available. Fine examples of twentieth-century features, including the gable-fronted end of the community, from the wealthy stained glass can also be found in many bays, limestone quoins and window architraves landowners to the very poor and, later, from nineteenth-century churches around Galway. (figs. 97-8). Irish emigrants abroad. As time went on, the

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(fig. 101) SAINT COLMAN'S CHURCH Ballybranagan Kinvara (1819)

Named after a local sixth-century saint, Saint Colman's is one of the earliest post- Reformation Catholic churches in the county. The effect is

of a building rooted NIAH CATHEDRAL OF THE in the domestic scale ASSUMPTION and style of dissenter (fig. 102) churches. The bell SAINT PATRICK’S (fig. 103) The interior is tower dates to 1845. CHURCH Dún Uí Mhaoilíosa CATHEDRAL OF THE dominated by Rinmore ASSUMPTION clustered limestone (c.1880) Bishop Street piers supporting Tuam delicate moulded ribs The garrison church (1827-1834) and elaborate bosses, at Barricks many in the form of presents an appealing Tuam's Catholic masks. combination of cathedral, one of the polychromatic brick Ireland's finest, and well crafted was designed and limestone, in a executed from start pleasant setting. to finish by Dominick Madden. The exterior CATHEDRAL OF THE has a wealth of ASSUMPTION Gothic detailing in its multi-pinnacled and Ceiling boss in the crocketed turrets, form of a male carved windows and human mask. ornate tower.

SAINT COLMAN’S CHURCH SAINT COLMAN’S South elevation. CHURCH

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(fig. 105) SAINT MICHAEL’S CHURCH St Michael’s Square Ballinasloe (1852-8)

J.J. McCarthy was commissioned in 1846 to design the larger of Ballinasloe’s two Catholic churches. SAINT MICHAEL’S The parish priest CHURCH changed horses during the project by The ceiling of Saint calling in A.W.N. Michael’s Church has Pugin, leading intricately carved McCarthy to timber arched trusses repudiate the final and ornate light product. fittings.

FRANCISCAN CHURCH

(fig. 104) achievement given that the architect, FRANCISCAN CHURCH FRANCISCAN Dominick Madden, left Tuam following a Saint Francis Street CHURCH disagreement and construction continued for a Galway period without the supervision of an architect. (1849) Carved angel over one of the stoups in It was started in 1827 and the roof was Galway’s Franciscan the façade. completed in 1834. The east end is a church, very much particularly complex composition with a part of the streetscape, is the rectangular chancel flanked by minor chapels. work of James Cusack. There was a great boom in church-building following Inside is the splendid five-light window, The It is entered through Virgin and the Four Evangelists by Michael a particularly fine Catholic Emancipation in 1829 and this can be seen in a Doric portico, the spectacular way in the cathedral town of Tuam. The Cathedral O’Connor. The interior is made spacious by the theme carried into of the Assumption is an outstanding example of the Gothic use of slender, octagonal, limestone columns, the explicitly Classical which support the complex rib system of the interior, culminating Revival style with consistency of design, boldness of detail and in a Corinthian high-quality stone carving (fig. 103). It was a remarkable vaulting. reredos under a dome.

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(fig. 106) (fig. 107) SAINT TERESA’S SAINT MARY'S CHURCH CATHEDRAL Ballylara Galway Road Laban Tuam (1856) (c.1170-1863)

The church at Laban The oldest parts of has been heavily Saint Mary's are the modernised, but its ornate chancel arch impressive baldachino (c.1170) of the remains intact. Romanesque cathedral (see fig. 5) and the early fourteenth- century chapter house to its east. This view shows the later cathedral by Sir Thomas Deane, built on the site of the ancient nave.

SAINT MARY'S Details of carved lions CATHEDRAL and swans to feet of columns of Some time before baldachino. 1312 a three-bay 'retro-choir' was built behind the chancel of the Romanesque cathedral. It in now in use as the chapter house and has rare Italian marquetry Three periods of development are evident in choir stalls. The choir SAINT MARY’S and chancel join Saint Mary’s Church of Ireland Cathedral in CATHEDRAL awkwardly; beyond is Tuam. The magnificent Hiberno-Romanesque the later cathedral. Detail of the chancel arch dates from the twelfth century clerestory of the nineteenth-century when Tuam was established as an archdiocese nave. (see fig. 2). The arch is the widest in Ireland and is in very good condition. The east section of the building dates from the fourteenth century and retains features such as buttresses,

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(fig. 108) WOODLAWN CHURCH Killaan Woodlawn (c.1875)

The chancel and vestry projections of this church are typical features of late nineteenth-century Church of Ireland churches. The building forms part of the Woodlawn estate.

(fig. 109) SAINT JOHN THE BAPTIST CHURCH Church Lane Eyrecourt (1867)

Eyrecourt’s Church of Ireland church is by William Martin. The ornate porch and the false transepts are of particular interest, and the two-stage tower at the north- west was left unfinished. The arms of the Eyre family are set into the gable above the chancel (fig. 110) window. machicolations and crenellations (fig. 107). KYLEMORE CHURCH Three Church of Ireland churches of special demesne (fig. 109). Perhaps the most splendid The wide pointed windows have tracery, which Pollacappul mention were erected by landed families. The of the estate churches is that at Kylemore, (1877-81) was possibly restored in the eighteenth century. prolific Trench family, builders of Woodlawn designed by James Franklin Fuller (fig. 110). It

The main body of the church was designed by To the east of the famous House and demesne, sponsored a church is a miniature cathedral in form and layout and Thomas Newenham Deane, who commenced Kylemore Abbey is what (c.1875) possibly designed by James F. considered to be one of the more accomplished has been described as a workined in 1861 and it was completed in Kempster, County Surveyor for the East works of the Gothic Revival in Ireland. Highly SAINT JOHN THE cathedral in miniature. 1878. The tower and spire rising over the BAPTIST CHURCH Designed by James Fuller, of Galway (fig. 108). In the village of Eyrecourt skilled craftsmanship is evident in the exquisite rusticated limestone of the walls are an it is one of the great the Eyres built the church of Saint John the ornate detailing including the varied forms of Detail of the buildings of the Gothic adaptation of St Patrick’s Cathedral tower and Baptist (1867) which has many ornate features tracery in the window openings and the colonettes to the Revival in Ireland. Its spire in Dublin. porch canopy. interior displays the and private access for the family from their sculpted spouts. finest craftsmanship in stone and marble.

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(fig. 113) LE POER TRENCH MEMORIAL Dunloe Hill Ballinasloe (1840)

Travellers to Ballinasloe have long been familiar with this monument by George Papworth set on rising ground on the western approach to the town. It commemorates the Le Poer Trench family whose seat was at Garbally Court

NIAH nearby. (fig. 111) (fig. 112) HENRY MAUSOLEUM DENNIS MAUSOLEUM Lemnaheltia Clonbern Kylemore Abbey (1869) demesne (1874) On May Day 1869 , This mausoleum, in reporting on the woodland to the east funeral of John of the church at Dennis, described: Kylemore, was built '...a singularly to house the remains beautiful mausoleum of Mitchell Henry’s oval shaped and NIAH wife, Margaret, who composed of cast iron

died in Egypt. It also ...The whole, with the NIAH contains the ashes of exception of the (fig. 114) Henry himself, who scrolls and devices...is CILL ÉINNE (Killeany) died in 1910. painted white'. brimming with classical detail (fig. 112). Very Árainn (Inis Mór) different is the classical monument (1840) to (1817-37) County Galway has a number of Charles Le Poer Trench, sited prominently on noteworthy mausolea and cenotaphs, often the western approach to the town (fig. 113). These cenotaphs are part of an evocative associated with major landed families. Mitchell The remarkable group of cenotaphs on series on çrainn Henry built a house-shaped mausoleum for his Árainn (Inis Mór) memorialise various island commemorating wife close to Kylemore church (fig. 111). families. They are all in the form of square island families. The right-most in this Within Clonbern graveyard is one of the most plinths of rubble limestone, with stepped photograph is for unusual structures in Ireland - the cast-iron copings surmounted by carved crosses. There Michael Dirrane and his wife Catherine,

mausoleum of the Dennis family. It has more NIAH are two groups of three and five, and the both of whom died in the appearance of a ship’s boiler than a place remaining sixteen or so are scattered along the 1817, he at 119 and

of burial and despite its utilitarian form it is spine road of the island (fig. 114). NIAH she at 97 years.

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(fig. 115) Pain to Ireland to supervise the construction of LOUGH CUTRA Lough Cutra. The detail in the stonework, CASTLE Lough Cutra Demesne particularly in the foliate carving to the porch, (1811 and 1856) contributes to making this a fine example of Gothic Revival architecture. Lord Gort’s After visiting the home in England of successor was ruined by the Great Famine of the celebrated 1845-9 and the house was sold in 1851. In architect, John Nash, 1854, Field Marshal Viscount Gough purchased Colonel Charles Vereker (later, it and added a wing with a clock tower. Viscount Gort) asked Some landowners transformed their older him to design a houses into grand houses by means of classical house in similar style at Lough Cutra. extensions. The original Saint Clerans was a George and James plain, two-storey over basemnet house built by Pain supervised the John Burke in 1784 at the time of his marriage; works. The clock tower wing was prior to this he had been living in his ancestral (fig. 116) added in 1856. castle nearby. In c.1807, after he inherited his SAINT CLERAN’S uncle’s estate, he engaged Richard Morrison Saintclerans (1767-1849), a successful Irish architect, to (1784, 1807)

enlarge the house. Morrison designed a bow- A bow-ended front ended block, one room deep, to run across one block was added to Saint Clerans by the end of the older building (fig. 116). The architect Richard elegant front elevation is an attractive and Morrison. The very well-executed design with three arched recesses wide breakfront is inset with a portico to the breakfront. Robert O’Hara Burke, the having Tower-of- Side elevation, the-Winds capitals, showing the older and the Diocletian- block to the rear. LOUGH CUTRA window feature over CASTLE the entrance echoes the window recesses. The rear elevation emphasises the medieval style of the house with strong base battering and bulwarks.

While he was promoting the development had become popular in Ireland in the early of the town, Lord Gort was also building a nineteenth century as landowners sought to grand house nearby on a site overlooking give their country houses an air of ancient Lough Cutra (fig. 115). Started in 1811, it was grandeur with the addition of crenellations, designed by the English architect John Nash in turrets, pinnacles, arched window openings and The unusual knocker the Gothic Revival style. This exuberant style oriel windows. Nash sent James and George to the front door.

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DEPARTURE OF THE (fig. 117) BURKE AND WILLS CASTLEGAR EXPEDITION, AUGUST Castlegar East 1860. (1803-7)

Robert O'Hara Burke, Richard Morrison's born at St Clerans in grandest villa is 1821, led an expedition square in plan, two- across Australia. He storey to the front travelled with eighteen and three to the rear. others from Melbourne Its elliptical front hall to the Gulf of and square rear hall Carpentaria, a distance have columns,the rear of 3,200 km, but was also having a domed stopped 5km short of roof. The drawing the north end by is from J.P. Neale's mangrove swamps. Views of Seats. Seven men died on Courtesy of the Irish the arduous journey. Architectural Archive Courtesy of the State Library of Victoria, Melbourne

famous explorer who perished on an expedition designed the gate-lodge and gate piers. The across the interior of Australia in 1860-1, was expense of the new house proved too much for

born at Saint Clerans in 1821. The house Mahon and he retired to live in . CASTLEGAR remained in the family until the twentieth The exterior was refaced in 1896, the west wing Designs for stucco century. It was sold in 1954 and was was added and cement pediments replaced work by by John Talbot. subsequently owned by the film director John Morrison’s segmental arches over the tripartite Courtesy of the Irish Huston. windows on the south front. Architectural Archive Castlegar was the grandest of Morrison’s Architectural details used in country houses villas (fig. 117). Built from 1801 to 1810 for were repeated in outbuildings and other Ross Mahon, it is a square, compact villa, structures on a demesne, including farm which may have started as an alteration to an buildings. The Garbally demesne on the west existing building but evolved into an entirely side of Ballinasloe is a fine example of the new building. Notable features of the rich continuity of classical architecture throughout interior are the elegant oval saloon, originally the property. It was owned by the Trench the front hall, and the great centrally placed family who had lived on the Garbally estate staircase with its domed landing. Morrison also since the seventeenth century; in 1722 they had

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GARBALLY DEMESNE

The demesne, depicted on the Ordnance Survey map of 1841, showing the house at the bottom of the map, farmyard and walled gardens to north-west and lake to north-east.

(fig. 118) GARBALLY COURT (now Coláiste Sheosamh Naofa) Garbally Demesne (1819, c.1850)

Garbally Court is a large square-plan house with eleven-bay two-storey elevations, its central courtyard having been infilled about the middle of secured a licence from George I to run a weekly triangular and segmental pediments and a the century. The main front has a tetrastyle livestock fair, giving rise to the famous strong cut-limestone string course. The house port-cochère entrance Garden elevation. Ballinasloe October Horse Fair. Garbally Court was originally designed around a courtyard but and the garden front was built in 1819 to replace a house that was this was filled in with a barrel ceiling with has a bowed centre. The elevations are burnt in 1798. The large, square, two-storey skylights c.1855 to create a picture gallery. knitted together by house was designed by an English architect, Classically inspired design features on the the cornice, sill and Thomas Cundy (fig. 118). Three elevations demesne buildings include an integral carriage plat bands and the consistent treatment have symmetrical facades with alternating arch on the stables and a central half-hexagon of the windows. The building is now in use as a college.

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(fig. 119) GARBALLY COURT Garbally Demesne (c.1820)

The stableyard reflects some of the Classical detailing of the house.

(fig. 121) GARBALLY COURT GATE LODGE Garbally Demesne (fig. 122) (c.1820)

NIAH GARBALLY COURT OBELISK Gate lodge on the Garbally Demesne Ballinasloe-Monivea (1811) road.

This hollow obelisk is (fig. 120) an eye-catcher at the GARBALLY COURT end of a vista from GATE LODGE Garbally. It was Garbally Demesne reputedly the spire (c.1860) of Saint John's Church, , Entrance gates and destroyed by fire gate lodge on the in 1899. However, the Ballinasloe to Galway base inscription states Road side of the that it was designed NIAH NIAH demesne. by J.T. Grove for Richard Clancarthy. breakfront in a farm building (fig. 119). As the plainer Georgian-style house. Two storeys befitting a wealthy demesne, there is a two- were now preferred to the Georgian three Manchester merchant Mitchell Henry to storey gate-lodge at the main entrance and storeys, overhanging eaves were being commission Kylemore Abbey in a spectacular single-storey lodges at lesser entrances included, and porches or porticos were location on a wooded hillside by Pollacappul (fig. 120-1). The fifth Earl of Clancarty sold becoming popular. The porte cochère on the Lake in Connemara. This iconic castellated much of his land in 1903 and Garbally Court north elevation of Garbally Court would have country house was designed by James Franklin in 1907 and the buildings are now part of provided perfect cover for visitors alighting Fuller in collaboration with Samuel Ussher Coláiste Sheosamh Naofa. from carriages. Roberts and was built between 1864 and 1871 The design of middle-sized country houses Improved access to Galway and Connemara (fig. 123). The house is a combination of in the nineteenth century varied with many promoted tourism in the far west. It may also medieval elements, especially Gothic; the combining elements of the neoclassical with have contributed to the decision by the grouping of battlemented and machicolated

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(fig. 123) (fig. 124) KYLEMORE ABBEY KYLEMORE ABBEY Pollacappul WALLED GARDEN (1864-71) Pollacappul (c.1890) Kylemore Abbey, near Letterfrack, is one of About a mile (1.6km) Ireland's great to the west of the architectural set- Abbey is a walled pieces. It was built for garden of about Mitchell Henry, a seven acres (2.7ha) Manchester Merchant, enclosed by a high who was bankrupted wall of rubble stone by the cost. The with wide brick building was extended gateways and sited in 1903 by the Duke carefully to take and Duchess of advantage of views Manchester, and of the surrounding was run as a school landscape. by the Benedictine nuns from 1920. It was laid out by James Garnier. The kitchen gardens occupy the western half. Separated by a stream are the formal gardens, shown here, which had a large group of glass- houses (two now restored),a gardener's house and various other buildings. towers and turrets create a very pleasing composition in this setting. There is a high level of craftsmanship displayed in the stonework, although the granite was transported from in County Dublin. NIAH The buildings around the demesne also demonstrate a high level of architectural detail. This is especially so in the case of during the First World War. The building was of rubble stone with substantial gates in red Kylemore church, which was also designed by extensively damaged by fire in 1959; however, brick. Inside are a gardener’s house and other Fuller (see fig. 110 above). Henry represented the walls of granite survived and were buildings, including the remains of no less Galway in parliament from 1871-84 but his incorporated into its reconstruction and a new than nineteen glasshouses. The well tended fortunes declined and he sold the house in wing was added. The Abbey was in use as a gardens and orchards are linked by paths that 1903. In 1920 it was taken over to reopen as school until 2010. provide some wonderful views of the a school by Benedictine nuns from Ypres in The walled garden at Kylemore is one of the surrounded mountainous landscape (fig. 124). Belgium, whose convent had been destroyed largest in Ireland. It is surrounded by a tall wall

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(fig. 125) (fig. 126) ASHFORD CASTLE ASHFORD CASTLE Deerfield or BRIDGE Gortnavea Deerpark or Gortnavea (1228-1970) (c.1865)

At Ashford a de A splendid medieval- Burgo castle of 1228 style bridge, straddling was replaced by a the border between towerhouse and counties Galway and gatehouse, now the Mayo, forms the west end of the approach to Ashford present house. The Castle. Binghams added a fortified enclosure, the lakeside forecourt ASHFORD CASTLE today, in 1589. The BRIDGE Brownes added blocks around the eighteenth-century house. His son, in 1715 and 1852. Lord Ardilaun, who had travelled in Europe The carved letter ‘A’ Ashford passed to the over the gateway at Guinnesses in 1855 and studied different styles of architecture, the castle end of the and they added a undertook a major extension, designed by bridge refers to vast castellated house ‘Ardilaun’. c.1870. Fuller and George Ashlin. The new part began as a block connecting the early eighteenth- century house to the east with two closely spaced towers of the old de Burgo castle to the west, and matching battlements were added to the whole ensemble. Highly decorative features traditionally associated with medieval castles, including machicolations, turrets, trefoil-headed windows, and blind loop holes, Fuller was also involved in the rebuilding were incorporated into the design and (fig. 127) of Ashford Castle in the 1870s. The long organised on mid-Victorian picturesque CONG CANAL history of this vast building is evident in its Creggaree principles. Ashlin designed the tremendous (c.1875) (fig. 125). complex appearance Situated at the castellated six-arch bridge with outworks and Lord Ardilaun had this head of Lough Corrib, it was originally built an embattled gateway, which are on the final in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgo family. canal cut through approach to the castle (fig. 126). Ardilaun bedrock to connect In 1715, the Browne family of built continued to spend money on the castle and Lough Corrib and . a house in the style of a French château, which the estate and he attempted, unsuccessfully, to is now incorporated into the centre part of the However, the ground build a canal to connect Lough Corrib and conditions were castle. The double-headed eagles, carved in Lough Mask (fig. 127). Records indicate that unsuitable and the water consistently stone on the roof of the building, represent the £41,000 was spent by 1875 and £1 million by family’s coat of arms. leaked out, thus the time of his death in 1915. His coat of arms turning the enterprise In 1852, Benjamin purchased is on the castle walls and his coronet and into an unsuccessful experiment. Ashford Estate and built two large extensions initials on the battlements.

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(fig. 128) (fig. 129) BALLYNAHINCH TULLIRA CASTLE CASTLE GATE LODGE Tullira Killeen (Ballynahinch (c.1450, 1843 and 1882) by.) (c.1820) A Burke towerhouse and hall at Tullira were acquired This Gothic and Tudor by the Martyn family before Revival gate lodge 1598. One of their number, was designed by S.U. Edward, transformed it into a Roberts and gives a rambling castellated country hint at the style of house in 1882, replete with the country house turrets, crenellations and beyond. mullioned windows with label-mouldings.

Rear of house, with block of 1843 to right.

BALLYNAHINCH Ashford Castle was run as a hotel from 1939 CASTLE and sold in 1969. Additions were added to the

Ben Lettera, one of north-west of the western wing in the 1970s. the Twelve Pins It is now one of Ireland’s more famous hotels, range, looms up attracting foreign politicians, royalty and film beyond the gate lodge and gateway at stars. Ballynahinch Castle. Edward Martyn (1859-1923), a descendent of the Galway merchant family and a significant supporter of Irish art and artists, lived in Tullira Castle near Gort. In the 1870s, George Ashlin was commissioned to build a castellated house onto the old Burke towerhouse, which had passed to the Martyns Double-light window in the seventeenth century (fig. 129). The of about 1550, in decorative features on the new densely the ground floor of castellated two-storey house included turrets, the towerhouse.

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(fig. 130) (fig. 131) CASTLE ELLEN Clifden Demesne Castle Ellen (1815) (c.1840)

John D'Arcy, founder Castle Ellen represents of Clifden, built a break from the himself a 'castle' in castellated the popular style of houses of earlier the early nineteenth decades. It is a robust century. Bankrupted two-storey by the Great Famine, basemented house he had to sell up. with a fine Ionic After the death of portico to the front the last occupant, in and half-octagon bay 1894, the house was to the side. It was abandoned and has the family home of since fallen into ruin. Isabella Lambert, mother of the politician, .

and the stained glass, which were part of Ashlin’s design for the tower. Martyn A thin veneer of reputedly lived in rooms of monastic simplicity render peels away in the old tower but went into the staircase from the underlying slate-hanging to mock hall every evening to play the organ. what was designed as An earlier castle, John D’Arcy’s house, a medieval-style Clifden Castle (1815), despite its fortified defensive (fig. 132) machicolation over appearance is actually a less formidable CASTLE ELLEN GATE the main entrance. (fig. 130) building than Ashford or Tullira . LODGE Besides these very large castellated houses there Castle Ellen are a larger number of smaller country houses. (c.1840) mullioned windows, prominent gargoyle spouts Castle Ellen (c.1840), Ballynagar (1807) and The gate lodge to and oriel windows. Martyn remodelled the old Carheen (c.1820) represent the scale of sizes Castle Ellen stands on tower, which had not been obscured by the late from five-bay two-storey houses with the opposite side of The farmyard at nineteenth-century work, with the aid of the the public road to the Clifden Castle, with basements to the more common three-bay gateway itself. It is a Arts and Crafts architect William A. Scott its Classical veneer. farmhouse (figs. 131-4). In urban areas large simple building with (1871-1921). He retained the wood panelling numbers of terraced houses started to make fine ashlar limestone walls.

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(fig. 133) (fig. 135) BALLYNAGAR HOUSE 15-16 UNIVERSITY Ballynagar ROAD (c.1807) Galway (c.1840) Ballynagar was designed for the This pleasant terrace Aylward family by the of rendered houses prolific architect with brick surrounds Richard Morrison. It to doors and windows has a light exterior is sited opposite the that is further contemporary softened by the university quadrangle. slightly bowed end The front gardens are walls and the delicate well tended and have doorcase. It was the attractive metal site of monster railings to the street. meetings during the agitations of the Land League.

(fig. 134) CARHEEN HOUSE Carheen (c.1820)

Restrained grandeur at Carheen is provided by the Gibbsian doorcase in Pádraig Mac Piarais (Patrick Pearse) (1879- an undersized 1916), leader of the 1916 Rising, as a summer Venetian-style entrance. The residence (fig. 137). In 1915, he visited the farmyard is set house with Desmond Ryan, a former pupil, immediately adjacent. who wrote of long walks and cycle rides their appearance. Galway has notable terraces through the heart of the Connemara in the fashionable Taylor’s Hill district of the . The interior of the house was burnt (figs. 135-6). city during the War of Independence but was Throughout the nineteenth century, the reconstructed and is now a museum. It is a construction of vernacular houses continued three-bay single-storey house, one room deep, with traditional materials and designs. Teach with limewashed rubble-stone walls and an Phiarsaigh (Pearse’s Cottage) (1870), a pitched thatched roof. The interior is also of thatched house near Ros Muc, was used by BALLYNAGAR HOUSE traditional design: the front door opens into 18 UNIVERSITY ROAD

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(fig. 137) TEACH AN PHIARSAIGH (Moycullen by.) (c.1870)

Teach an Phiarsaigh, a National Monument, was used as a (fig. 136) summer residence by 5 SAINT MARY’S Pádraig Mac Piarais, TERRACE principal leader of the Galway of 1916. (1898) It was burnt during the War of Tudor detailing sets Independence, off this house, one of restored and is now a a terrace of sixteen in museum. the fashionable Courtesy of the Taylor’s Hill area of Photographic Unit, Galway City. The DOEHLG TEACH AN retention of timber PHIARSAIGH sash windows and original carved timber Courtesy of the doors is increasingly Photographic Unit, rare, and the ornate DOEHLG metal railings enhance the setting.

(fig. 138) TEACH SYNGE Ceathrú an Teampaill Inis Meáin (c.1800)

J.M. Synge holidayed in this thatched house on Inis Meáin, one of the main room (the kitchen) which has the a handful on Oileáin hearth, with a bedroom behind the latter. Árann that are still Also within the vernacular realm is Teach habitable. Synge was 7 ELY PLACE inspired to write The Sea Road Synge, a house occupied by John Millington Playboy of the Galway Synge when he stayed on Inis Meáin and where Western World and (c.1860) he was inspired to write some of his best- during the summers known plays (fig. 138). Elsewhere in the of 1898-1902.

county and perhaps more densely distributed NIAH

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(fig. 139) (fig. 142) HEADFORD ROAD TEMPLETOGHER MILL Galway Pollaneyster (c.1800) (c.1830)

Now engulfed by the Templetogher Mill is urban sprawl of an excellent example Galway City, this of a small-scale rural attractive vernacular corn mill. Its timber house and water wheel remains outbuildings typify and on the other side what was common in of the road stands an the district until the associated L-plan mid-twentieth arrangement of corn- century. The pitched drying kiln and forge. roofs and small openings are NIAH characteristic (fig. 143) of this building (fig. 140) CORNARONA tradition. KILLANNIN (c.1860) (c.1800) Found along the This beautifully coastline of Galway maintained vernacular Bay, kelp kilns such as house and attached this one formed an outbuilding make a important part of the roadside scene of local economy into outstanding the twentieth century. architectural and Their form, similar to aesthetic quality. those of corn-drying kilns, has changed little in a thousand years. NIAH

in the southern half of east Galway is an (fig. 144) CORR NA MÓNA, impressively large collection of other houses c.1900 with thatched roofs (figs. 139-41). Also within This very informative the vernacular realm are some industrial Lawrence photograph (fig. 141) structures: small-scale watermills and shows the village of windmills, kelp kilns and limekilns Corr na Móna with mainly thatched (Dunkellin by.) (figs. 142-4). On Inis Meáin there is a rare and Craughwell houses. The fine (c.1800) important group of small thatched limekiln (c.1800) has outbuildings, covered in roped rye thatch somewhat unusual flank walls. The Craughwell has one (figs. 145-6). of the few remaining building in the thatched houses that right background, survive in the now gone, was a county’s towns and Catholic church.

villages. NIAH Courtesy of the National Library of Ireland

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(fig. 145) SÉIPÉAL CEATHRÚ AN MHUIRE GAN SMÁL TEAMPAILL (Carrowntemple) Ceathrú an Teampaill Inis Meáin (Carrowntemple) (c.1860) (Aran By.)

More than twenty thatched outbuildings, becoming very rare elsewhere, survive on Inis Meáin. Some date to c.1860, the rest to c.1920. All are small and single- celled, with a doorway in a long wall or gable, rubble stone walls, and roped rye thatched roofs. NIAH

(fig. 146) CEATHRÚ AN LISÍN (Carrowlisheen) Inis Meáin Closing the nineteenth century and Irish architecture and decorative arts. (c.1920) opening the twentieth is the aforementioned The Celtic Revival movement was a positive This thatched Edward Martyn, whose support of the arts was note on which to end a century during which outbuilding on Inis wide-ranging. He was one of the founders of there had been great social upheaval in County Meáin, erected in the early twentieth the Abbey Theatre with Augusta, Lady Gregory, Galway but steady development in its century, has its who lived in Coole Park, and the poet W.B. architecture. The grandeur of Kylemore Abbey, entrance, unusually, Yeats, who was a regular visitor to the area. He Ashford Castle, the cathedrals in Tuam, as well placed in a gable wall. The ropes that also promoted the contemporary Arts and as other fashionably designed town buildings tie the thatch to the Crafts movement, a late nineteenth-century stand out but the continuation of the roof structure are movement inspired by William Morris that vernacular traditions in domestic building was accommodated by the crow-stepped gables advocated the use of traditional building crafts also significant. Despite the improvements in and are secured to and local materials. In 1903, he established An transport, availability of materials and pegs of wood and Túr Gloine (The Tower of Glass), a stained-glass adoption of architectural fashions, traditional metal pushed into the joints of the rubble studio, with renowned Irish artist Sarah Purser. buildings were still being constructed at the limestone walls. The studio became the most prominent close of the nineteenth century and the start

NIAH expression of the Arts and Crafts movement in of the twenty century.

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Sculpted column One of the double The Twentieth Century capital by Michael transepts, showing Shortall retelling the the range of artistic story of the voyages media employed in of Saint Brendan. the cathedral. (fig. 146) SAINT BRENDAN’S CATHEDRAL Barrack Street, Loughrea (1897-1903)

The cathedral at Loughrea, designed by William Byrne, is a fine if modestly sized catholic cathedral. It boasts one of the most important interiors in Ireland, the decoration and The Stations of the furnishing by Irish Cross (1928-33) by artists having been Ethel Rhind. specifically promoted by Edward Martyn.

Bronze gates in the altar rails, by Michael Shortall.

Architecture and the decorative arts in early county. Edward Martyn used his influence to twentieth-century Galway merged in an promote Irish art in the new cathedral and, as extraordinary synergy in Saint Brendan’s stained-glass windows were added over the Cathedral, Loughrea (fig. 146). The building, following years, all of the commissions went to designed by the Irish architect William Byrne the artists of An Túr Gloine. Eminent artists and built between 1897 and 1903, has a Gothic who worked in the cathedral include Michael Revival-style exterior, similar in character to Healy and Evie Hone. Healy’s association other post-Emancipation churches in the began in 1903 when he assisted with a window

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SAINT BRENDAN’S and it culminated with two masterpieces, CATHEDRAL Ascension (1936) and Last Judgement (1936-

Michael Healy’s Last 40). The latter is an original work with a Judgement (1936-40). wealth of detail that took nearly four years to complete. The golden mandorla or aura surrounding Christ appears to have been created by thousands of tiny tesserae and evokes a Byzantine mosaic. Fine carved stonework by Michael Shortall includes capitals, one depicting the voyage of Saint Brendan the Navigator. Ethel Rhind was responsible for the Stations of the Cross in opus sectile (pieces larger than mosaic pieces). The monumental entrance gates to the cathedral were designed by Scott. He also collaborated with Michael Shortall on the much-admired altar rail. Stained-glass windows by An Túr Gloine artists and others were created for many churches around the county, often sponsored by donors who paid for new, colourful windows to replace plain, existing ones. The work of Harry Clarke (1889-1931) a stained- glass artist, book illustrator and graphic designer of exceptional skill and imagination is also to be found in County Galway. His work is distinguished by the fine detail, rich colours,

(fig. 147) TULLY CROSS CHURCH Derryherbert (Ballynahinch by.) (1927)

Saint Barbara, the left hand light of a three- light window, Saint Bernard and Barbara with Christ revealing his Sacred Heart, by Harry Clarke.

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(fig. 148) CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF LOURDES Church Street Ballinasloe (1931-6)

This church, in the east side of Ballinasloe, is by Ralph Henry Byrne, using stone from the garrison church in Custume Barracks, .

medieval imagery and references to Ireland’s carries a book of his visions. In this window, spiritual past. In 1927, he completed a three- as in many others by Clarke, the clothing of light memorial window for Tully Cross church, the saints is decorative and almost CHURCH OF OUR CHURCH OF OUR which had been commissioned by Mrs Oliver fashionable. The Church of Our Lady of LADY OF LOURDES LADY OF LOURDES St John Gogarty to commemorate her parents, Lourdes in Ballinasloe, built in 1931, the year Bernard and Barbara Duane (fig. 147). The of Clarke’s death at the age of 41, contains Stained glass by Harry Stained glass by Clarke Studio. Patrick Pye. window, featuring the saints of the same further work by his studio and other windows names, has intriguing details such as galactic by Patrick Pye (b.1929) (fig. 148). explosions across the back of each light, and William A. Scott, already mentioned, was a sting rays and fish beneath Saint Bernard, who leading figure in Arts and Craft architecture in

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(fig. 149) (fig. 150) CILL ÉINDE SACRED HEART Spiddal West CHURCH An Spidéal (Spiddal) Carrowntemple (1904) (c.1910)

William Scott, one of One of the few the greatest Hiberno Romanesque practitioners of the Revival churches in Arts and Crafts Ireland, this example movement in Ireland, is the work of William designed this splendid Scott. Its high-pitched cruciform church at roof catslides over the the turn of the shallow transepts, and twentieth century. It the variety of round incorporates and flat-headed Romanesque elements, windows adds interest typified by the to the textured doorway of elevations. diminishing arches and by the round- headed windows. NIAH

One of the few Hiberno Romanesque Revival rusticated Galway limestone (fig. 151). churches in Ireland is the Church of the Sacred Connemara marble was used extensively in the Heart at Belclare, near Tuam, designed by the interior. Contemporary Irish art in the Ireland. He had spent three years with the has Romanesque features, with antae at each prolific Scott (fig. 150). cathedral includes the statue of Our Lady and London County Council, a centre for corner of the long nave, and an asymmetrically In 1957, after several bleak decades, there the Infant by Imogen Stuart, who also designed progressive architectural ideals of the time. He sited belfry (fig. 149). The main entrance is in was a burst of optimism in Galway city with the three main doors featuring scenes from the returned to Ireland in 1902 where, with the the side elevation and has an external, the commencement of the monumental gospels. The altar table, which is a massive support of Martyn, he designed the new parish freestanding font. In another splendid display Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven single white slab of Carrara marble suitable for church at An Spidéil (Spiddal). Cill Éinde of contemporary Irish art, there is stained glass and St Nicholas. Prominently located on an concelebrated masses, was presented to the (1904) is considered one of Scott’s most by Catherine O’Brien and, as with Loughrea, island in the River Corrib, this vast structure cathedral by Lord Hemphill of Tullira in satisfying works and is characterised by rugged stone carving by Michael Shortall and opus with a copper-roofed dome was designed by memory of Edward Martyn; five crosses are simplicity and boldness of form. The exterior sectile Stations of the Cross by Ethel Rhind. John Robinson and built with walls of carved onto the surface of the altar. The

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(fig. 151) (fig. 152) CATHEDRAL OF OUR SAINT IGNATIUS’S LADY ASSUMED CHURCH INTO HEAVEN AND Sea Road SAINT NICHOLAS Galway Gaol Road (1956) Galway (1957-65) Mosaic of Madonna and Child by Louis Le Galway Cathedral, Broquy in the chapel standing on the site of Madonna della of the city gaol, Strada. is a vast edifice with a cavernous entrance and a curious blend of styles: Greek (fig. 153) basilican plan, Gothic COLÁISTE MHUIRE (fig. 154) rusticated walls, and Saint Mary’s Road NURSES’ HOME with Continental Galway University College references in the (1910-12) Hospital window openings, Newcastle Road balconied This large school Galway doorways and building by William (1933-8, extended cupolas. Scott has additions of 1954) about 1940 by Ralph cathedral has a traditional cruciform plan with Byrne and of 1958 by The Nurses’ Home, a J.J. Robinson. Its the layout following the liturgical requirements landmark of the Art blocky massing is of the 1950s. The design, according to the Deco in Galway is by relieved by the tall T.J. Cullen. It has the programme for the opening ceremony was pilasters between bays rounded corners and and the advancing of ‘influenced by the classical tradition of Galway sleek lines associated The voluminous Bronze statue of the the end blocks. interior. Madonna and Child architecture of the period of the city’s greatest with the style. The by Imogen Stuart prosperity, the seventeenth century, and in block to the left of the higher central over the main particular by its ancient Spanish affiliations’. entrance. part was added in Galway Cathedral was dedicated with lavish 1954. ceremony in 1965. An important group of structures is the public buildings of the county, including colleges, such as Coláiste Mhuire (1910-12) by Scott and the Nurses’ Home of University College Hospital (1933-8) by T.J. Cullen and which was extended in 1954 (figs. 153-4). Buildings providing other public services include the post office at Tuam by Harold Leask of the Office of Public Works and various local authority contributions to the architectural heritage (figs. 155-8).

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(fig. 155) (fig. 157) Grand country houses across the country TUAM POST OFFICE ORAN BEG were damaged during the War of Independence Circular Road (c.1960) Tuam and the Civil War. In the far west, (1912) Water towers of House was burnt down in 1923 when the reinforced owner, Oliver St John Gogarty, became a Harold Leask of the concrete Office of Public Works became more senator of the Free State. In the early designed the post common after nineteenth century, it had been the home of office in Tuam, in a the Second the O’Flahertys, who had owned the area Georgian Revival World War and style. Its single-storey were unique before the Cromwellian period. In about 1810, form, breakfront and designs. the Blake family, another of the Tribes, took brick walling with However, this over what was a long thatched house, enlarged limestone trim make example, near it one of the most Oranmore, is it and replaced the roof with slates. A first distinctive buildings one of a group NIAH floor and two wings were added in the mid- in the town. of octagonal nineteenth century. It was a plain house, plan. (fig. 156) weather-slated on the outside and panelled in GALWAY oak inside. It was run as a hotel by the Blakes CORPORATION from 1883 and, in 1917, was sold to St John WATERWORKS (fig. 159) Dyke Road Gogarty, a surgeon, poet and novelist. SPIDDAL HOUSE Bohoona East Galway He rebuilt it in 1928 with a higher roof to (1938-9) An Spidéal (Spiddal) allow more bedroom accommodation and with Domestic architecture benefited from a (c.1910) The waterworks weather-slating only on the upper floor greater variety in available building materials An earlier building of complex in Galway (fig. 160). It reopened as a hotel in the 1930s. City includes a in the twentieth century. The Local 1805-22 was The mid-eighteenth-century house, Castle building of 1902 by Government Act of 1898 established urban extended by William James Perry and this Hacket, was also burnt down in 1923. The Scott in 1910 in an district councils and county councils, which oriental style for the pleasant building by original house had a centre block of three Hubert O’Connor with became responsible for public housing in their second Lord Killanin. storeys over a basement; two-storey wings were simple detailing and areas. Schemes constructed during this period The loggias include good lettering of the added later in the eighteenth century. When sculptural work by were usually one or two-storey terraced houses Michael Shortall. late 1930s. NIAH it was rebuilt in 1929, it looked significantly and, in subtle ways, reflected changes in different from the original: one of the wings (fig. 158) architectural styles and materials with local and the top storey of the central block were variations. Red brick had become popular Galway omitted. (c.1970) during the nineteenth century due to increased mechanisation of production. Significant (fig. 160) 1820. It was bought Several shelters and developments in concrete construction in the RENVYLE HOUSE by Oliver St John toilets along the HOTEL Gogarty in 1917, but seafront at Salthill are later nineteenth century saw the steady rise in Rusheenduff burned by anti Treaty constructed of the use of this material also. (rebuilt 1930) forces in 1923 concrete in a In 1910 the ubiquitous Scott re-edified as Gogarty was then a refreshingly modernist A hotel since 1883, Free State senator. Its manner and add Spiddal House for the second Lord Killanin, Renvyle House had style is mixed significantly to the extending an existing building of a hundred been thatched Edwardian and Arts architectural variety of

years earlier (fig. 159). until enlarged in and Crafts. NIAH the city of Galway. NIAH

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(fig. 161) (fig. 162) SAINT THERESA’S Ballylee (Kiltartan By) Taylor’s Hill/Maunsell (restored 1917) Road Galway W.B. Yeats purchased (c.1910) and restored the medieval towerhouse Saint Theresa’s is an and thatched house attractive L-plan at Ballylee in 1917. house with Arts and He recorded the event Crafts influences, with the lines: evident in the ‘I, the poet William sprocketing of the Yeats/ With old mill roof. The superficial boards and sea-green symmetry is broken slates/ and smithy by the irregular work from the Gort fenestration, forge/ Restored this particularly evident in tower for my wife the canted entrance George;/ and may bow. these characters remain/ when all is ruin once again.’ NIAH

The use of traditional materials is found in contents of an old mill nearby to secure a the home of W.B. Yeats (1869-1929) at Thoor supply of beams, planks and paving stones, all

Ballylee. In 1917 he took possession of a small of which would have been difficult to obtain (fig. 163) sixteenth-century Burke towerhouse and during the war years. He salvaged stone from MOYARD (c.1900) adjoining vernacular house (fig. 161). The old outhouses and he had the house thatched.

tower has four floors with one room on each Yeats wrote, ‘My idea is to keep the contrast This typical two-storey connected by a spiral stone stairway built into between the medieval castle and the peasant’s Congested Districts Board house is the massively thick outer wall. Formerly part cottage.’ Scott died before the work was notable for its simple, of the Gregory estate, it had been lived in by completed and a few years later Yeats restrained exterior. the Spellman family until the early twentieth abandoned the place when ill health took him century and they had built the adjoining abroad, after which the tower and house house for younger members of the family. decayed. It was placed in the hands of a Trust The tower and house were restored and in 1963 and a restored Thoor Ballylee was furnished by Scott. He used local materials opened in 1965.

and traditional craftsmanship, acquiring the NIAH

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Conclusion

There is a subtlety to much of County The county has contributed many fine Galway’s architectural heritage. It is evident in buildings to the national collection, including the asymmetrical fenestration and medieval cathedrals, ancient and modern, and elegant ornaments above the shopfronts in Galway city country houses. No less important, and more centre, and in the rather austere limestone evocative of the history of warehouses on the narrow streets by the quays. generally, is the county’s vernacular In rural Galway, it is displayed in the architecture. This is exemplified by thatched skilfully executed doorways and window- houses and outbuildings, most of which surrounds in the market towns and in the continue in use, maintaining a link in the stained-glass windows of country churches. twenty-first century with more ancient Most especially, however, it is evident in the traditions. bridges, harbours and other utilitarian In order to protect this built heritage structures on the Atlantic coast and along the considerable sensitivity is required when city’s abundant watersides, all built with local embarking on renovation, adaptation or materials, by local craftsmen and are, in many extension of individual buildings. The choice cases, still fully functional. and use of materials for repair work should be The incorporation of elements of medieval related to those traditionally used. Likewise architectural styles into the modern Galway approaches to historic demesnes, farmyards

Cathedral follows a long tradition of and townscapes should have regard to best NIAH

acknowledging the county’s ancient heritage conservation practice. In these ways, the (fig. 164) while embracing new ideas in design and richness of Galway’s built heritage can be ARDMORE QUAY construction. County Galway has a significant passed on safely to succeeding generations. Ardmore (Moyrus Par.) (c.1880) heritage of twentieth-century public buildings, ranging from hospitals to the shelters on the promenade at Salthill.

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Further Reading

Alcock, O., de hÓra, Kathy Garner, William Knight of Glin, Griffin, O’Keeffe, Peter and Shaffrey, Patrick and LETTER BOX Cashel (Ballynahinch By.) Galway: architectural Shaffrey, Maura and Gosling, Paul (compilers) David J. and Robinson, Simington, Tom (c.1930) Archaeological Inventory of heritage Nicholas K Irish Stone Bridges: history Irish Countryside Buildings County Galway: volume 2: (Dublin, 1985) Vanishing Country Houses and heritage (Dublin, 1985) North Galway of Ireland (Dublin, 1991) (Dublin, 1999) Garner, William and Craig, (Dublin, 1989) Spellissy, Seán Maurice Pakenham, Valerie The History of the City and Bence-Jones, Mark Buildings of Architectural McParland, Edward The Big House in Ireland County of Galway A Guide to Irish Country Interest in Co. Galway Public Architecture in (London, 2001) (, 1999) Houses (Dublin, 1975) Ireland, 1680-1760 (London, 1988) (New Haven and London, Robinson, Tim Villiers-Tuthill, Kathleen Gordon-Bowe, Nicola 2001) Oileáin Árann: a map and Alexander Nimmo and the deBreffny, Brian and ffolliott, The Life and Work of Harry guide Western District Rosemary Clarke Moran, Gerard and Gillespie, (Cill Rónáin, 1980) (Clifden, 2006) The Houses of Ireland (Dublin, 1989) Raymond (eds.) (London, 1975) Galway: history and society Robinson, Tim Villiers-Tuthill, Kathleen Gosling, Paul (compiler) (Dublin, 1996) Connemara: introduction The Connemara Railway Craig, Maurice and Knight Archaeological Inventory of and gazetteer (Clifden, 2008) of Glin County Galway: volume 1: O’Dowd, Peadar (Roundstone, 1990) Ireland Observed: a guide to West Galway Old and New Galway Wilkins, Noel the Buildings and (Dublin, 1993) (Galway, 1985) Robinson, Tim Alexander Nimmo: master antiquities of Ireland Mementos of Mortality: the engineer: public works and (Dublin and Cork, 1970) Hardiman, James O’Dowd, Peadar cenotaphs and funerary civil surveys The History of the Town A History of County Galway of Árainn (Dublin, 2009) Craig, Maurice and County of the Town of (Dublin, 2004) (), Co. Galway Classic Irish Houses of the Galway (Roundstone, 1991) Williams, Jeremy Middle Size (Dublin, 1820) Office of Public Works A Companion Guide to the (Dublin, 2006 (1976)) Building for Government: Semple, Maurice , Hutchison, Sam the architecture if State By the Corribside 1837-1921 Towers, Spires and buildings, OPW: Ireland (Galway, 1981) (Dublin, 1994) Record of Protected Pinnacles: a history of the 1900-2000 Structures for County cathedrals and churches of (Dublin, 1999) Shaffrey, Patrick and Shaffrey, Galway the Church of Ireland Maura (Galway, 2007) (Bray, 2003) Buildings of Irish Towns (Dublin, 1983)

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47 Saint Matthew’s Church of 57 Salmon Watch House 64 T. Lally 76 Esker National School Registration Numbers Ireland Church Townparks (St Nicholas’ Market Square, Gort Esker Td. Glenloughaun Td. par.) Td., Galway 30341006 30410903 The structures mentioned in the text are listed below. More information on each structure may be found by accessing the survey on the 3048727 30318018 64 The Crane House 77 Toberroe National School internet at: www.buildingsofireland.ie and searching by the Registration Number. Structures are listed by page number. Please note 48 Trench Mausoleum 57 Eglinton Canal Market Square, Gort Toberroe West Td. that the majority of structures included in this book are privately owned and are not open to the public. However, ecclesiastical buildings, Moneyveen Td. Townparks (Rahoon 30341015 30400705 30407317 par.)/Townparks (St such as churches, commercial buildings such as shops, public houses, banks, hotels, railway stations and structures such as bridges, are Nicholas’ par.) Td., Galway 64 Tuam Town Hall* 77 Kiltartan Gregory Museum* normally accessible. Courthouses and some other buildings have variable access. Sites which are presumed to be publicly accessible are 49 Killeany Td. 30313013 Market Square/High Street, Kiltartan Td. 30411903 Tuam 30412203 asterisked. 58 Ceannt Station 30331029 50 Bridge Street, Gort Station Road, Galway 78 Letterfrack Industrial 17 Seaghan Ua Neachtain 27 Roxborough 38 Ballynahinch Castle Estate 08 Dún Guaire Castle* 30341044-46 30314043 65 Galway Courthouse School* Not in survey Quay Street/Cross Street Demesne/Eskershanore/ Bridge Courthouse Square, Galway Letterfrack Td. Upper, Galway Deerpark (ED Kilchreest) Ballynahinch Td. 51 Martello Tower 58 Meyrick Hotel* 30314011 30329005 30319013 Tds. 30403605 09 The Kelp House Esker (Longford by.) Td. Eyre Square, Galway 30405104 30410414 30410906 30314042 66 Gort Courthouse 78 Letterfrack Industrial 18 Saint Nicholas’ Collegiate 39 Curraveha or Birchhall Td. Market Square, Gort School workers’ houses* Church 28 Streamstown Mill 30405501 09 Beagh Beg 51 Dún Árann* 59 Ballinasloe Railway Station 30341018 Letterfrack Td. 30404204 Church Lane/Shop Streamstown or Oghil Td. Station Road, Ballinasloe 30329006 Street/Churchyard Street, Barratrough Td. 39 The Volunteer Arch* 30411019 30333001 66 Loughrea Courthouse Galway 30402219 Belview or Lissareaghaun 10 Dún Aonghasa* Fair Green, Loughrea 78 Old Monastery Hotel Not in survey 30314049 Td. 52 Island House* 60 Athenry Railway Station 30337009 Letterfrack Td. 29 Carrownabo Td. 30410017 Gaol Road, Galway Station Road, Athenry 30329009 19 Aughnanure Castle* 30404511 11 Cill Cheanannach* 30313018 30332009 67 Maam Courthouse Aughnanure Td. 40 Tyrone House Carrowlisheen Td. Moneenmore Td. 79 Saint Joseph’s Convent Not in survey Not in survey 29 Woodford Weir Tyrone Td. 53 Nimmo’s Pier 60 County Galway VEC 30402505 Saint Brigid’s Avenue, Woodford Td. 30410337 Claddagh Quay,Galway Station Road, Athenry Portumna 20 Portumna Castle* 30342006 11 Na Seacht dTeampall* 30319004 30332008 68 Ballinasloe Courthouse and 30343014 Portumna Demesne Td. 41 Clonbrock House Onaght Td. Bridewell Not in survey 30343048 30 Eyre’s Long Walk Clonbrock Demesne Td. 54 Clifden Harbour 60 Ballynahinch Railway Society Street, Ballinasloe 79 Convent of Mercy Long Walk, Galway 30406012 Clifden Station 30333015 Cross Street, Loughrea 21 Eyrecourt Castle 30319003 12 Saint Brendan’s Cathedral 30325017 Cloonbeg Td. 30337032 Eyrecourt Demesne Td., 42 Ardfry House Glebe (part of) Td. 30403613 69 Woodford Td. Eyrecourt 31 The Grainstore Ardfry Td. 30410102 55 John D’Arcy Tomb* 30342008 80 Saint Colman’s Church 30338019 Abbeygate Street 30409416 Christ Church, Sky Road, 61 Banagher Bridge Ballybranagan Td. Lower/Whitehall, Galway 12 Saint Mary’s Church of Clifden Esker Td. 70 Saint Brigid’s Hospital Kinvara 22 Clonfert House 30314073 43 Coole Park House (plinth)* Ireland Cathedral 30325034 30410909 Church Street, Ballinasloe 30339002 Clonfert Demesne Td. Coole Demesne Td. Galway Road, Tuam 30334010 30331025 30410101 31 Mayoralty House 30412204 55 John D’Arcy Monument* 61 Salmon Weir Bridge 81 Saint Patrick’s Church Saint Augustine Street, Clifden Td. Gaol 71 Saint Brendan’s Hospital Dún Uí Mhaoilíosa 23 Fartamore Bridge Galway 43 Coole Park Visitor Centre* 13 Ross Errily Friary* 3032511 Road/Waterside/ Knockanima Td. Rinmore Td. Fartamore/Kilcreevanty Tds. 30319020 Coole Demesne Td. Ross Td. Newtownsmith, Galway 30410509 30409408 Not in survey 30401611 30412206 56 Annaghdown Quay 30313015 31 Saint Columba’s Nursing Annaghdown Td. 72 Gort Workhouse 81 Cathedral of the 23 Finnure Church Home 44 Innisfail 13 Clontuskert Priory* 30406903 61 Ardbear Bridge Ennis Road, Gort Assumption Finnure Td. Cloghballymore Td. The Mall, Eyrecourt Abbeypark Td. Ardbear Td. 30341057 Bishop Street, Tuam Not in survey 30409808 30410352 30338015 56 South Island Lighthouse 30403513 30331039 Td 73 Portumna Union 25 Menlough Td. 32 Monivea Castle 44 Lisdonagh House 15 Kumar 30412012 62 Glencoaghan/Ballinafad Workhouse 82 Franciscan Church 30408204 Monivea Demesne Td. Lisdonagh Td. Flood Street/Spanish Tds. Portumna Td. Saint Francis Street, Galway Not in survey 30404211 Arch, Galway 56 Céibh Bhearna 30403701 30412703 30314015 30319022 25 Derryfrench Td. Freeport Td. 30411605 32 Killimor Castle 45 Moylough House 30409307 63 Halifax Bank 74 National University of 83 Saint Michael’s Church Killimor Td. Moylough More Td. 16 Lynch’s Castle (now AIB 19 Eyre Square, Galway Ireland, Galway* St Michael’s Square, 26 Ballinasloe Bridge 30408511 30404503 Bank) 56 Mutton Island Lighthouse 30314039 University Road, Galway Ballinasloe Bridge Street, Ballinasloe Shop Street/Abbeygate Mutton Island Td. 30308005 30333062 30333029 33 Raford House 45 Malmore Street Upper, Galway 30409406-7 63 F. O’Dea 30314052 Raford Td. Ardbear Td. Main Street, Kinvara 75 Yeats College 84 Saint Teresa’s Church 26 Doonmacreena Bridge 30408514 30403509 57 Ballintleva 30339020 College Road, Galway Ballylara Td. Kinnakelly Td. (and 17 John Deely (Moycullen By.) Td. 30315003 30411408 Doonmacreena Td., Co. 34-5 Castle ffrench 46 Martin Mortuary Chapel* Mainguard 30409012 64 O’Connell’s Mayo) Castle ffrench Td. Spiddle West Td. Street/Churchyard Street, Eyre Square, Galway 76 Leam National School 85 Saint Mary’s Cathedral 30400401 30404707 An Spidéal Galway 30314028 Leam East Td. Galway Road, Tuam 30327012 30314057 30405305 30331025 27 The Quiet Man Bridge 36-7 Ballynahinch Castle* Leam East/Derryerglinna Ballynahinch Td. 47 Presentation Convent Tds. 30403607 Presentation Road, Galway 30405305 30313021

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86 Woodlawn Church 100 Ashford Castle* 110 Headford Road, Galway 123 Coláiste Mhuire Killaan Td. Deerfield or Gortnavea Td. 30302001 Saint Mary’s Road, Galway Acknowledgements 30408607 30402719 30318001 110 Killannin Td. 86 Saint John the Baptist 101 Ashford Castle Bridge 30406809 123 Nurses’ Home Church Deerpark or Gortnavea Td. University College Hospital Heritage Policy and Architectural Protection We wish to acknowledge the considerable help of Máirín Church Lane, Eyrecourt 30402720 Newcastle Road, Galway 110 Craughwell Principal Officer Brian Lucas Doddy, Conservation Officer, Galway County Council; 30338002 30308006 (Dunkellin by.) Td. Chief Architect Martin Colreavy 101 Cong Canal Craughwell also thank Marie Mannion, Heritage Officer, Galway 87 Kylemore Church Creggaree Td. 30336006 124 Tuam Post Office* County Council and Olivia Murphy of Galway City Pollacappul Td. 30402722 Circular Road, Tuam NIAH 30402310 111 Templetogher Mill* 30331034 Council. 102 Ballynahinch Castle Gate Pollaneyster Td. Senior Architect William Cumming 88 Henry Mausoleum* Lodge 30400604 124 Galway Corporation Architectural Heritage Officer Barry O’Reilly Lemnaheltia Td. Killeen Waterworks We would like to acknowledge the assistance given by GIS/IT Deborah Lawlor 30402311 (Ballynahinch by.) Td. 111 Cornarona Td. Dyke Road, Galway the staff of the Irish Architectural Archive, the National 30403608 30408208 Additional NIAH Staff Mildred Dunne, Gareth John, 30409109 Library of Ireland, the National Photographic Archive, 88 Dennis Mausoleum* Damian Murphy, T.J. O’Meara, Jane Wales, Clonbern Td. 103 Tullira Castle 111 Td. 124 Oranmore Td. Gerard Hayes of the State Library of Victoria, Dr Nicola Ann Kennedy, Muiris Ó Conchúir 30403109 Tullira Td. 30402601-2 30409511 Gordon-Bowe, Ruth Delaney, Jean Farrelly, Jerry 30411409 89 Le Poer Trench Memorial* 112 Ceathrú an Teampaill/ 124 Salthill, Galway O’Sullivan, Con Brogan and the staff of the Photographic The NIAH gratefully acknowledges the following Dunloe Hill, Ballinasloe 104 Clifden Castle Carrowntemple Td. 30323005 Unit of the DoEHLG, and our architectural and 30333055 Clifden Demesne Td. 30411907-11 in the preparation of the Galway County Survey 30403502 125 Spiddal House archaeological colleagues in the DoEHLG. and Introduction: 89 Killeany Td.* 112 Ceathrú an Lisín. Bohoona East Td. 30411120-22 An Spidéil Carrownlisheen Td. Sources of Illustrations 105 Castle Ellen* 30327002 30411921 Survey Fieldwork 90 Lough Cutra Castle Castle Ellen Td. All of the original photographs for the Introduction were North Galway: CONSARC Conservation/ Lough Cutra Demesne Td. 30408401 113 Séipéal Mhuire gan Smál 125 Renvyle House Hotel* taken by Nutan Photography. Photographs taken by the 30412906 Ceathrú an Teampaill/ Rusheenduff Td. William Garnermann 105 Castle Ellen Gate Lodge Carrowntemple Td. 30400901 survey recorders or by NIAH staff are labelled NIAH with South Galway: Tiros Resources Ltd 91 Saint Cleran’s Castle Ellen Td. 30411918 the relevant images. All other illustrations are Saintclerans Td. 30408402 126 Thoor Ballylee* West Galway: Headland Archaeology Ltd acknowledged on the relevant page. 30409716 114-16 Saint Brendan’s Cathedral Ballylee (Kiltartan by.) Td. Barrack Street, Loughrea 30412302 93 Castlegar 106 Ballynagar House Recorders 30337038 The NIAH has made every effort to source and Castlegar East Td. Ballynagar Td. 127 Saint Theresa’s North Galway: William Garnermann, Úna Ní Mhearáin, 30406116 30412515 117 Tully Cross Church Taylor’s Hill/Maunsell Road acknowledge the owners of all of the archival Eva McDermott, Nicola McCarroll and Dawson Stelfox Derryherbert Galway illustrations included in this Introduction. The NIAH 95 Garbally Court 106 Carheen House (Ballynahinch by.) Td. 30317005 South Galway: Natalie de Róiste, Edel Barry, Aislinn Garbally Demesne Td. Carheen Td. 30401003 apologises for any omissions made, and would be happy Collins, Rosarie Davy, Hilary Galvin, Marie-Anne Lennon, 30408714 30410407 127 Moyard Td. to include such acknowledgements in future issues of the 118-19 Church of Our Lady of 30402203 Elena O’Brien Introduction. 96 Garbally Court stableyard 107 15-16 University Road, Lourdes West Galway: Brian Mac Domhnaill, Anne Golden, Garbally Demesne Td. Galway Church Street, Ballinasloe 129 Ardmore Quay 30408716 30313007 Ardmore (Moyrus par.) Td. Robert Hanbridge, Greg Laban, Sinéad Madigan, Conn 30334014 Please note that the majority of the structures 30407708 Murphy, Kevin Murphy, Cécile Thevenet, Danny Yates 96 Garbally Court Gate Lodge 107 18 University Road, 120 Cill Éinde included in the Galway County Survey are privately Garbally Demesne Td. Galway Spiddal West Td. 131 Cashel (Ballynahinch by. owned and are not open to the public. 30408718 30313005 An Spidéil 30405106 Introduction 30327010 97 Garbally Court Gate Lodge 108 5 Saint Mary’s Terrace, Sea 136 Burke Writer Catherine de Courcy ISBN: 978-1-4064-2534-5 Garbally Demesne Td. Road, Galway 121 Sacred Heart Church George’s Street, Gort Editors Barry O’Reilly, Willie Cumming (c) 2011. 30408706 30318062 Carrowntemple Td. 30341051 Copy Editor Lucy Freeman 30404302 97 Garbally Court Obelisk 108 7 Ely Place, Galway 136 Curragh West Td. Photographer Nutan Garbally Demesne Td. 30318049 30400502 122 Cathedral of Our Lady Designed by 2B-Creative 30408713 Assumed into Heaven and 109 Teach an Phiarsaigh* Saint Nicholas Printed by Hudson Killeen 98 Kylemore Abbey* Turlough Gaol Road, Galway Pollacappul Td. (Moycullen by.) Td. 30313016 30402306 30406502 The NIAH would like to thank all those who allowed 123 Saint Ignatius’ Church access to their property for the purposes of the Galway 99 Kylemore Abbey Walled 109 Teach Synge* Sea Road, Galway County Architectural Survey and subsequent Garden* Carrowtemple Td. 30318052 Pollacappul Td. 30411915 photography. 30402301

135 JC291 NIAH_Galway Book(AW):master wicklow - english 5/1/11 11:24 Page 136

AN INTRODUCTION TO THE ARCHITECTURAL HERITAGE of COUNTY GALWAY

BURKE George’s Street Gort (c.1860)

CURRAGH WEST (c.1935)