Final Mile Anthology10
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A publication of ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION a publication of ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION FINAL MILE ANTHOLOGY10 $6.95 AUG/SEPT 2018 Vol.45 No.7 schwalbetires.com The new Flat-less Incredibly Durable. Rolls Smoothly. Environmentally Conscious. Available Now at your local bicycle retailer. Marathon Plus: The Original. schwalbe.com/flat-less DOES NOT MATTER! A flat tire can never be entirely avoided. However, the Marathon Plus provides the very best protection against the typical puncture fears like shards and flints. 2014_Marathon_Plus_Full.indd 1 10/24/14 1:15 PM Letter from the Editor THE MEDIUM IS THE MESSAGE Making it look essay ➺ I love essays, though you wouldn’t necessarily know it from the sporadic appearance of the Final Mile department in this magazine. Sure, we’ve printed a This Month Online misfire or two, but a great essay can capture something ➺ For more Adventure Cyclist–related that a compelling feature or jaw-dropping photograph content, be sure to visit our website at can’t. An image may be worth a thousand words, but adventurecycling.org/adventure-cyclist. there’s no guarantee which thousand — I’ll take my chances with a chunk of perfectly wrought text. BI-MONTHLY BLUES? This month, we have what our staff has taken to calling Adventure Cyclist slides back into the Final Mile Spectacular Spectacular (not a typo, it’s more fun to say it combined-month issues for the rest of twice), with a quintet of essays that range in style, topic, and tone as widely as 2018, but you can still get a regular bike the bicycle journeys that birthed them. From reflections on chaos (“Rules of travel fix through our digital channels in the Road”) to generational chasms and bridges (“The C&O Revelation”) to the the off months. just plain funny (“One of Ours”), this anthology explores the way a moment lingers long after the bikes are put away. BIKE AND GEAR REVIEWS Elsewhere in the issue we try something a bit different in our tech coverage We’re testing through the summer as we look at the bikes we, the people behind the magazine, ride. Over and over months and posting a steady stream again in correspondence with readers, we reference bikes and parts that live of reviews at adventurecycling.org/ in our garages and that we have the most experience with, so we’re taking it bike-and-gear-reviews. Check back mainstream. You can see short versions on page 30, and visit adventurecycling. regularly for the latest. org/editorsbikes for a more in-depth look. Last but not least, as part of our yearlong hat tip to the Great Divide’s 20th EDIGEST IN YOUR INBOX anniversary, we sit down with the legendary Alaskan racer Lael Wilcox and Get Adventure Cyclist eDigest every the upstart Salida, Colorado, bag makers at Oveja Negra. Then we head to the month. It’s free, it’s got online-only Windy City for a look at Out Our Front Door, a group dedicated to exploring coverage, highlights from our archives, what’s just around the corner by bike. and did we mention it’s free? Sign up at We’re back into combined-month issues now, so we’ll see you again with adventurecycling.org/eDigest. the October/November edition. In the meantime, be sure to subscribe to our monthly eDigest newsletter (see right) to keep a healthy dose of bike SUBMIT TO US We’re taking travel going through the late summer. submissions year-round in 2018, and we’re especially looking for well- Alex Strickland photographed features from the Editor-in-Chief, Adventure Cyclist U.S. and Canada. Send us yours at [email protected] adventurecycling.org/submit. EDITOR-IN-CHIEF STAFF WRITER COPY EDITOR Alex Strickland Dan Meyer Phyllis Picklesimer [email protected] CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ART DIRECTOR EMERITUS TECHNICAL EDITOR Willie Weir Patrick O’Grady Greg Siple Nick Legan Dan D’Ambrosio Jan Heine [email protected] June Siple Josh Tack ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Rick Bruner 509.493.4930 AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 LEAD DESIGNER [email protected] Ally Mabry Volume 45 Number 7 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 03 VOLUME 45 ∞ NUMBER 7 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG contentsAUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 20 is America’s only magazine dedicated to bicycle travel. It is published nine times each year by Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $45 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscription to Adventure Cyclist and discounts on Adventure Cycling maps. For more information about Adventure Cycling Association and Adventure Cyclist magazine, visit adventurecycling.org or call 800.755.2453. SUBMISSIONS INFORMATION: Adventure Cyclist accepts stories, articles, and photographs for publication. Learn more at adventurecycling.org/submit. OUR COVER: The Route des Grandes Alpes DEPARTMENTS connects Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean Sea, a switchback- 08 Waypoints heavy ride of 16 giant passes crammed FINAL MILE WHAT WE RIDE 30 27 Geared Up into 435 miles. The photographer nears the summit of France’s Col des ANTHOLOGY 10 ➺ A glimpse behind the 28 Cyclesense Aravis in this self portrait. Photo by curtain at what our testers 42 Life Member Profile Stephanie Ridenour. ➺ A collection of essays capturing the think makes the best bike. 44 Marketplace/Classifieds 50 Companions Wanted ROAD TEST: magic of bike travel. CO-OP CYCLES ADV 1.1 AN INTERVIEW WITH 51 Open Road Gallery A bike designed to do one 11 thing: tour. $1,299 THE C&O REVELATION LAEL WILCOX 35 by Roy M. Wallack ➺ The endurance legend stops just long enough for 24 14 LETTERS ONE OF OURS a Q&A. by TJ Forrester 03 LETTER from the by Ellee Thalheimer Editor 05 LETTERS from our 16 NORTHWOODS Readers by Helena DeLong OVEJA NEGRA 38 06 LETTER from the ➺ A bikepacking bag Director 20 RULES OF THE ROAD empire in the tiny town by Patricia Isaacs of Salida, Colorado. by Nathan Ward 22 LOSING MY HUE by Liz Sinclair COLUMNS BRINGING THE 24 Road Test 40 Patrick O’Grady ADVENTURE HOME Co-op Cycles ADV 1.1 ➺ Riding in the Windy City. by Dan D’Ambrosio 04 ADVENTURE CYCLIST AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2018 Letters from our Readers PUTTING HISTORY IN PERSPECTIVE I look forward to having historical Divide (“The Mighty Moes,” May 2018). Here is how I solved the problem: cycling accounts spread among the They were good friends of mine. Your I contacted Microshift. They were annual issues. These articles add article brought back many memories incredible to work with and sent me perspective to the current tales I shared with Mike and Dan. We were a 1x11 road setup that worked with AND humble current riders on their teammates on the Laramie High my XT drivetrain. I thought the front dominating machines. I thought I School swimming team. Additionally, would be a no-brainer, but that also was really accomplishing something rock climbing and camping trips were proved to be a challenge. I ended by riding across the U.S. and down activities we shared. Several years after up with a SRAM crankset, but the the West Coast, but then I recalled these adventures, I heard about many availability of different-sized sprockets the stories of the earliest riders on of Mike’s wild journeys during the few is limited. Currently I run an 11–46T singlespeed bikes and knapsacks. months we commuted the 50 miles to cassette and 11-speed XT rear derailer Todd Collart | Ventura, California work from Laramie to Cheyenne. As with a 38T chainring. I lose a little top implied by your article, I would agree end, but I rarely miss it. KILLING ME WITH KILOS that Mike and Dan were about the Ideally, these bikes would have the Each issue I look forward to your journey and not about the conquest of range of the SRAM Eagle drivetrain, Road Tests despite the fact that most their adventures. 1x11 brifters that support hydraulic of the bikes tested are not readily It should be noted that when the disc brakes, and a crankset that has available in Oz. However, each issue Arctic biking expedition met the boat, available rings from the low 30s. you are doing my head in. The specs the plan was to have marine survival Or, as a compromise, an 11-speed are all in millimeters or centimeters suits for all of them. The survival suits drivetrain like the XT. or degrees. These I understand, were not delivered as planned. They A small shout out to Microshift — Australia converted to metric in 1979. had little choice but to board the boat having used Shimano and SRAM shifters But the weight is in pounds! Could you without the suits because of the cold and for years, the Microshift brifters on my PLEASE do the sums for me and print low food supplies. I greatly miss them. bike are by far the smoothest and most kilograms as well? Lowell Spackman | Laramie, Wyoming precise shifters I have owned. Hopefully Bruce Fry | Stanmore, Australia a maker like Microshift will eventually SHIFTING SEARCH build a groupset that serves this very Editor’s Note: Bruce has us here. We’re I read the review of the Salsa Cutthroat popular niche. more or less mirroring one of the oddities (Road Test, May 2018) with interest, Daniel Randolph | Richfield, Minnesota of the U.S. bike industry (okay, the U.S. especially when discussing the drivetrain. at large) in which we list many lengths in Last year I was in the market for metric, but not weights or volumes. Still, a bike that would double as a gravel we have no idea how much a kilogram is, bike and a touring bike.