Hailee Lim 11 September 2016

Iris van Herpen Dutch designer

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Biography

Iris van Herpen (born 5 June 1984) is a Dutch fashion designer. She studied Fashion Design at ArtEZ Institute of the Arts Arnhem and interned at Alexander McQueen in , and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. Van Herpen immediately caught the eye with notable shows. In 2007, she started her own label. Since July 2011, she is a guest member of the prestigious Parisian Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which is part of the Fédération française de la couture. She participates in many international exhibitions and creates two collections a year.

Van Herpen writes on her website, “For me fashion is an expression of art that is very close related to me and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, moods and cultural setting. In all my work I try to make clear that fashion is an artistic expression, showing and wearing art, and not just a functional and devoid of content or commercial tool.”

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Collaboration

Arts & architecture

Benjamin Millepied Julia koerner

Philip Beesley Isaie Bloch

Neri Oxman Benthem Crouwel Architects

Jolan van der Wiel Noritaka Tatehana

Bart Hess Heaven Tanudiredja

Stephen Jones Irene Bussemaker

Nanine Linning United Nude (Rem D. Koolhaas)

Daniel Widrig

Carlos van Camp

Photography

Nick Knight

Juergen Teller

Jean Baptiste Mondino

Pierre Debusschere

Warren du Preez & Nick Thornton Jones

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Music & Film

Björk

Scarlett Johansson

Lady GagaPhotography

Nick Knight

Juergen Teller

Jean Baptiste Mondino

Pierre Debusschere

Warren du Preez & Nick Thornton Jones

Beyoncé

Tilda Swinton

Gwendoline Christie

Grimes

Daphne Guinness

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IRIS VAN HERPEN & ISAIE BLOCH - VOLTAGE COUTURE SHOW PARIS - 3D PRINTED JEWELLERY

IRIS VAN HERPEN & BEYONCÉ - ‘MINE’ MUSIC VIDEO

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WATER-DRESS SHOOTING FROM IRIS VAN HERPEN WITH NICK KNIGHT & DAPHNE GUINNESS

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Iris Van Herpen: The master of 3D print fashion

Van Herpen’s designs are utterly unique and works of art in themselves. Her early adoption of 3D printing technologies placed her in the vanguard of the technology’s introduction into fashion. The 3D prints only added to that other much-heard term to describe Van Herpen’s style: futuristic. Besides the use of new technologies, the term mostly refers to the appearance of her looks.

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Glass Bubble Dress

Iris van Herpen has created a dress using thousands of hand-blown glass balls for her haute-couture collection. The glass dress was a standout piece from Van Herpen's Seijaku collection, presented in L'Oratoire du Louvre church for Autumn Winter 2016.

To create the garment, the designer coated thousands of glass balls with transparent silicone. The silicone enabled the bubbles to stick together in a solid structure, forming a "bioluminescent prism around the body".

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Another dress was influenced by the work of Japanese artist Kohei Nawa, who creates animal forms out of glass bubbles and large-scale installations using foam. Borrowing his technique, the designer integrated thousands of droplet-shaped crystals into a long silicone dress so they appear to be dripping down the body.

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Water Dress

Following her work on 3D printing based around the concept of liquid clothing, stylist Van Herpen personifies artists’ and scientists’ current interest in water: the “blue gold” of tomorrow.

In the wake of her “Crystallisation” collection, presented in 2010 during London Fashion Week, Iris Van Herpen who dreams of intangible clothing is about to create a dress made of splashing water.

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Magnetic Motion

"I find beauty in the continual shaping of chaos, which clearly embodies the primordial power of nature's performance," said Van Herpen, describing her Magnetic Motion collection.

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3D-printed garments and accessories "grown" with magnets during her ready-to-wear show in Paris. Her initial ideas for this collection came after she visited the Large Hadron Collider at Swiss scientific research facility CERN, where magnetic fields are created in excess of 20,000 times greater than the Earth's.

This composite material was added to fabric in small sections then pulled by magnets, creating a spiky texture and pattern.

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Hacking Infinity

Iris van Herpen has formed garments from a fine steel mesh burnished in swirls for her Autumn Winter 2015 ready-to-wear collection.

According to the designer, the colours and shapes used for the clothes were based on the notion of terraforming other planets to make them suitable for human inhabitance.

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Wilderness Embodied

"My Wilderness collection explores the wilderness that we as human have inside us as well as the wilderness in nature”. Pieces that wrapped around the length of the neck and extended down the chest were decorated with pointy globules tinted purple, blue and pink colours.

These elements were repeated in symmetrical patterns on the see-through layers worn over neutral dresses.

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Shoe 3D Printing

"Iris is very dramatic with her concepts and the shapes she wanted were only possible with 3D printing - they are almost like a sculpture on your feet, mimicking nature," said Koolhaas.

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Koolhaas, founder of shoe brand United Nude, worked with van Herpen to create a dozen pairs of shoes for the Wilderness Embodied show. Fashion designer Iris van Herpen and shoe designer Rem D Koolhaas have collaborated to create 3D-printed shoes that look like tree roots.

She also teamed with famous shoe designer Noritaka Tatehana. They created a pair of extremely unique crystal-inspired 3D printed shoes as well. The shoes were actually produced with more than one digital technology. Laser cutting was also used in order create the intricate details on the footwear.

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