New Dawn on the Tavaputs Ranch
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New Dawn on The Tavaputs Ranch Price, Utah Photo by Ron Francis, NRCS Leopold Conservation Award Recipient 2009 tanding at the Tavaputs denotes one of eastern Utah’s In its middle, the Plateau is Ranch headquarters on most remote and spectacular cleaved in two by Desolation Desolation Canyon’s geographical features. The Canyon. Carved over millions Swestern rim, an early-rising Tavaputs Plateau is a high of years by the Green River, observer willing to quit his bed tableland of alpine meadows Desolation splits through the before the aroma of coffee and shimmering aspen groves Plateau’s russet-colored rock, or bacon stirs his senses may that climbs gradually from the its sloped walls dropping over witness a performance of rare Uintah Basin to an altitude 5,000 feet to the bottom where and dramatic beauty. The scrim of 10,000 feet, terminating the mazy river twists along its of sky lightens, blushes deeply, Carved over millions of years by the Green River, Desolation Canyon splits through and slowly sets the stage alight the Plateau’s russet-colored rock, its sloped walls dropping over 5,000 feet to the with reds, pinks, and violets. Though its sides are not as There is a pause—then, the sun bursts forth from the canyon’s recesses, illuminating sky above at its southern boundary in and rugged landscape below. the shattered cathedrals and as steep as the Grand Canyon, As sunrises go, this is one for the tumbledown ramparts of the Desolation is a deeper cut bucket list. Standing there on Book Cliffs. For millennia, this in the earth. As it happens, the brink of the canyon, you can place was a summer oasis to Desolation comes by its name easily imagine you’re witnessing Ute and Fremont Indians, a honestly; there are no roads in verdant island of summer grass or out. It is still truly wild country, dawning of the ages. and good hunting grounds understood to be one of the It’s no accident, then, that sequestered high above the most remote places in the lower the word “Tavaputs” means baking heat of the painted Utah 48 states. “sunrise” in the language desert. of the Ute Indians. It also 16 New Dawn on The Tavaputs Ranch | Tavaputs Ranch SCF Magazinejp.indd 16 1/24/2014 1:19:18 PM Jensen family has been Butch and Jeanie Jensen Photo by Gaylene Erwin New Dawn on The Tavaputs Ranch | Tavaputs Ranch 17 SCF Magazinejp.indd 17 1/24/2014 1:19:26 PM The headquarters of Butch alpine region down to a great their piece of wilderness. and Jeanie Jensen’s Tavaputs chain of desert cliffs. “The land was there for the Ranch perches at 9,500 feet on “A long plateau stretches the rim of the Tavaputs Plateau, across the river in an easterly and people in there,” says Butch with Desolation Canyon as its westerly direction, the summit Jensen. astonishing backdrop. Even in covered by pine forests and It was little wonder settlers this age of heavy-duty diesel intervening valleys and gulches,” had not yet staked out this pickups and satellite internet, it’s the notes read. “The plateau country. With no roads in to hard to fathom life in a place so itself is cut in two by the canyon. Desolation Canyon, and none up remote that a quick trip to the Other side canyons head away to Tavaputs, all the McPhersons’ back from the river and run down belongings and equipment had butter is an all-day (mostly back- into the Green… . The elevation to be packed in on horses and road) Journey. But the Jensens of the plateau being about 8,000 mules, each trip taking days. are as rooted in the Tavaputs feet above the level of the sea, Heavy obJects had to be broken country as any one of the stately it is a region of moisture, as is down for the journey in. well attested by the forests and “All the horse-drawn farm along its alpine ridges. This tight- grassy valleys… . On these high equipment, stoves—everything knit family comes from a line of tablelands, elk and deer abound; you can imagine on a ranch tough, resilient homesteaders and they are favorite hunting in that era—they’d Just take who have known how to weather grounds for the Ute Indians.” everything apart, bolt by bolt, great hardship through to the Powell and his men made piece by piece, as little as dawn of new opportunities. day trips to explore the Plateau they could get it, and put it on But the Jensens’ attachment as they boated the Green River, pack mules,” explains Butch. to this country isn’t Just due to passing through a deep canyon “Then you had to reassemble staying power; it’s a matter of Powell described as having many everything.” deeply held affection. In the tributaries, potentially making (Amazingly, it wasn’t until aspen groves, pine forests, it good wintering country for 1943 that roads were put in to cattle, but also with a dark and the Tavaputs homestead, ending their nurturing touch is visible wild aspect. “…[C]rags and the era of pack trains up the everywhere in this land of tower-shaped peaks are seen mountain; Desolation Canyon, isolation and spectacular beauty. everywhere, and away above however, remains roadless even them, long lines of broken cliffs; today.) and above and beyond the cliffs The family homesteaded are pine forests, of which we both in the canyon and on the Jeanie Jensen’s great-great- obtain occasional glimpses as plateau. But within 10 years, grandfather, David McPherson, we look up through a vista of both David and his brother homesteaded the Tavaputs rocks,” Powell wrote. “We are would be dead—lost to tragic Ranch in 1889. He emigrated to minded to call this the Canyon of accidents—leaving the running Utah from the Midwest, planning Desolation.” of the remote McPherson to work on steam engines for the This account stirred ranch to young Jim McPherson, railroad. It was the mid-1880s; the frontiersman in David David’s 26-year-old son. Jim the wilder parts of central and embraced the challenge, southern Utah were only Just put the lush summer country over time assembling one of being explored and documented on the Tavaputs together at the time. McPherson was able with the low, sheltered land in Hereford cattle in the region. He to lay his hands on a copy of Desolation Canyon to build eventually married, and had a John Wesley Powell’s notebook an ideal summer-winter cattle schoolteacher brought in to tutor from his 1869 expedition on operation—provided he had the Green and Colorado Rivers, the gumption to pull it off. organ packed in on a mule to an adventure bankrolled by McPherson took the challenge. the Desolation homestead so his the Smithsonian Institution. In 1889, he and his family loaded family could enJoy music. In his notes, Powell went into up their possessions, took on “That’s what’s amazing about great detail about a lush, high supplies at the town of Green young Jim,” says Butch, “is that tableland stretching from Utah’s River, and pushed off to claim he kept it together as such a 18 New Dawn on The Tavaputs Ranch | Tavaputs Ranch SCF Magazinejp.indd 18 1/24/2014 1:19:26 PM place in Desolation Canyon; their list of action movies. One small did real well.” honeymoon was spent snowed group of cattle and some of the In 1927, Jim McPherson sold in at a sheep camp, babysitting ranch horses are in for a real-life the ranch to his daughter and cattle on the San Rafael Desert. cliffhanger—trailing down to son-in-law, Pearl and Budge Their two kids— son Tate, and the original McPherson winter Wilcox, who were Jeanie’s daughter Jennie—came along country in Desolation Canyon. grandparents. The ranch then in 1980 and 1982, respectively. “The Desolation thing is still passed to Jeanie’s father, Don Butch and Jeanie raised Tate and pretty tough today,” says Butch. Jennie in the saddle—trailing “There’s no roads in there, so Butch. cattle, roping, and more recently when you go in, you’ve got to take Butch Jensen’s family partnering in the running of the a string of mules, with your grub showed up on the Tavaputs ranch. And as a capstone to the and your beds.” Plateau a bit later, homesteading Jensens’ lasting legacy on the the Rock Creek Ranch in 1918. Tavaputs Plateau, in 2004 Butch By 1947, Therald, Butch’s father, and Jeanie completed an historic This song of the waters had begun buying out his uncles, land deal that allowed them and eventually acquired the to put their family homesteads is audible to every ear, ranch outright. At the time, there together as a single operation. but there is other music were other homesteaders on Butch and Jeanie’s story may in these hills, by no the Plateau, but little by little sound like a cowboy fairytale— they sold out their land and two ranchers’ kids falling in means audible to all. cattle, opting for a less bracing love on the top of an isolated To hear even a few notes existence than that afforded by mountain—but Butch likes to the thin Tavaputs air. As they keep it in perspective. dispersed, Wilcoxes and Jensens “In all reality, you ought to here for a long time, bought up the land for their feel sorry for her, because hell, and you must know the growing operations.