Office of International Programs Brown-in-India Handbook 2014-2015 Brown-in-India Program Handbook 2014-2015
Table of Contents
Introduction …………………………………………………2 India …………………………………………………3 Your Advisors in India …………………………………………………5 Pre-Departure Information …………………………………………………6 -Getting a Student Visa -What to pack? -Health information -Medicines -Insurance -Weather -Recommended reading -Pre-departure checklist The Program …………………………………………………11 -Program calendar -Landour Language School -Program costs -Refund policy -Dismissal policy Arriving in Delhi …………………………………………………16 -Let the OIP know -Contact the US Embassy Housing …………………………………………………17 -Accessibility College Life …………………………………………………17 -Academics -Starting out -In and around college Around Delhi …………………………………………………21 -Cultural resources -Shopping and eating-out -Places and cultural festivals you should not miss -Transport -Safety -Money and banking Around India …………………………………………………27 A Final Note …………………………………………………28
Cover photos: hdw.eweb4.com, internshala.com, jsktravels.in, mahakumbhfestival.com, Steve McCurry, Vishma Thapa.
1 Introduction
This handbook is designed to assist you with the process of preparing for your journey to India and participation in the Brown-in-India program. It will serve to answer questions about what to expect. Answers to more specific questions about the country may be found in any number of guidebooks like the Lonely Planet, which is geared towards traveling on a budget, as are The Rough Guide and Fodors.
We at the OIP would like to emphasize that programs in developing nations require enormous flexibility, openness to change, and a willingness to expect the unexpected. We emphasize this because past Brown-in-India students have read these same words, and have reiterated upon their return that these aspects were important to a successful stay in India.
Students who opt for this program must understand that this is not Brown University transplanted to India, it is Brown at St. Stephen’s College or Brown at Lady Shri Ram. The academic experience differs distinctly from the Brown or another American university experience.
An intercultural experience is an emotionally intense and profoundly challenging experience for the participant. As you read this handbook, we urge you to ask yourself, “Is this something I want to attempt?” “Can I accept the opportunity to develop an awareness of a different culture?”
If you have any questions or concerns about anything now or while you're away, please contact our office immediately at the numbers/e-mail below. We accept collect calls from students abroad so don’t hesitate because of cost.
If it’s an emergency and not during normal business hours at Brown you can call Police & Security at (401) 863-3322. They can reach one of us at all times – ask them to contact the staff of International Programs at home following their emergency procedure directions from our office.
Brown University Office of International Programs Box 1973 Providence, RI 02912 tel 401-863-3555 fax 401-863-3311 email [email protected]
Enjoy India!
2 India
To describe modern India as a land of contrasts would be to state the obvious. There are many countries that would qualify for that description in terms of ethnic, linguistic, religious and geographical variants, but few can match the vast scale and diversity to be found in India.
Change is inevitably taking place as modern technology reaches farther into the fabric of society, yet much of India remains much the same in essence as it has for thousands of years. So resilient are its social and religious institutions that they have absorbed or repelled all attempts to alter or destroy them. Even in fast-paced, modern cities like Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi, what appears to be a complete change of attitude and life style is often only surface gloss. Underneath it, the age old verities, loyalties and obligations still rule people's lives.
There is possibly no other country where religion is so inextricably intertwined with every aspect of life. Coming to understand it can be a long process littered with pitfalls, particularly for those educated in the Western liberal traditions with its basis in logic. For those people, ‘Indian logic’ can almost seem bizarre, convoluted and even exasperating. Yet in its own way it encompasses a unique cosmology, which is both holistic and coherent. India was the birthplace of two of the world's great religions (Hinduism and Buddhism) and one of its smallest (Jainism). It's also home to one of the world's few remaining communities of Parsis, adherents of the faith of Zoroastrianism. Islam is among the major religions of India and the Muslim community plays a crucial role in all facets of life in the country. Christianity too plays a role. Though there is a large Christian demographic in Goa, Mumbai, Kerala (in South India) and in the North- Eastern States, as students you will perhaps encounter the Christian community mostly in Landour (where you will be doing your preliminary Hindi course) and at St Stephen’s College.
The Indian state is a relatively recent creation born out of a people’s desire to throw off the yoke of colonialism. Even the largest of India's ancient civilizations did not encompass all of modern India and today it is as much a country of diversity as of unity. You may have heard said that there are many Indias. In terms of ethnic origin, language and geography, that is undoubtedly true and it sometimes bedevils efforts at creating a
3 national consciousness. Yet, ever since Independence (1947) India has remained the world's largest democracy.
4 Your Advisors in India
Program Site Coordinator: Samar Grewal
Samar will coordinate off-campus aspects of the program; from organizing airport pick- ups to showing you around Delhi, assisting you with travel arrangements, health emergencies and answering all your questions about Delhi and Indian life. You will be meeting with Samar periodically (he will also conduct periodic inspections of the apartments on a mutually convenient day). If needed, he is also available for one-on-one meetings.
Samar Grewal: S-47 Panchsheel Park Second Floor New Delhi 110017 INDIA
Tel: 011 91 98 715 88798 011 is the international access code when calling from the U.S. and 91 is the India country code
Email: [email protected]
Student Program Assistants
Brown also employs student program assistants from your respective colleges. The students help each group (LSR and St. Stephen’s) settle into Delhi and college life. Their role is multi-purpose, ranging from picking you up at the airport, helping you to get mobile phones and answering questions about your college and the city, to helping you make sense of society around you. Program assistants often help you settle socially into Delhi as well as guide you around Delhi’s markets, restaurants and clubs. Having someone fluent in Hindi assist you not only helps you get around better, it also gives you someone with whom to practice the language. If the assistants are, for some reason, unable to help, do not hesitate to contact Samar.
Foreign Student Advisor
The Foreign Student Advisor at St. Stephen’s is Sanjeev Grewal, ([email protected]) and at Lady Shri Ram is Kasturi Kanthan ([email protected] or [email protected]). They will be your advisors for all matters related to their respective colleges. Any academic or administrative concerns should be brought to them. You will need to let them know your choice of courses and agreed-upon syllabi early on in the first term.
5 Pre-Departure Information
Getting a Student Visa
For US Passport holders, you will need a student visa to stay as a student in India. Citizens of other countries should check directly with the Indian Consulate regarding entry requirements. The Indian Consulate has recently outsourced the Visa application process to an organization called: “Travisa Outsourcing.” It is your responsibility to verify the required procedures/documents with this organization, to apply, and to secure your own visa prior to your departure. It is strongly advisable to start this process as early as possible; however, you may have to wait a bit before you receive the following items from Brown:
• A letter of acceptance from your host college in Delhi (St. Stephen’s or Lady Shri Ram) • A letter of financial support and program participation
This will be sent to you in the near future and you should have plenty of time to procure your visa before you depart.
Please direct questions to Travisa Outsourcing at: website http://indiavisa.travisaoutsourcing.com/ tel 212-613-2223-NYC; 202-463-6166-Washington, DC; 312-332-1161-Chicago; 415-527-0888-San Francisco
APPLY IMMEDIATELY. Do not wait on getting this processed.
If you have any questions or concerns after inquiring with Travisa Outsourcing, please do not hesitate to contact Brown’s Office of International Programs at 401-863-3555.
Consular Information
Embassy of India 2107 Massachusetts Avenue N.W. Washington, DC 20008 tel 202-939-7000
OR
Consulate of India 3 East 64th Street New York, NY 10021 tel 212-774-0600
6 What to Pack?
Regular clothing is fine, though it is advisable to dress in a culturally sensitive manner. While most students at college wear western garb, very short shorts and skirts and low-cut tops are generally not advisable for Delhi wear. DO NOT over pack, because there are enough Western stores in the city (Zara, Forever 21, Mango, Esprit, etc) and markets such as Sarojini Nagar are full of leftovers from companies such as H&M, Abercrombie & Fitch and the like. Shoes are not so important (except for men in some clubs). Casual wear suffices and fancier footwear can be bought here as well.
The electric current in India is 240 volts, so you'll need a converter if you’re bringing appliances that use solely 120V, as opposed to 100-240V adaptors (as Apple does). Make sure that you know what voltage your appliances can handle so you don’t ruin them by accident. Do not bring a surge protector, they are provided in the apartment and all have sockets accessible to both American and Indian plugs. Make sure that you use the surge protectors; the power can go on and off at random sometimes.
Packing essentials: a) One fleece jacket. A winter coat is unnecessary but a warm jacket is very useful b) Basic first-aid kit with topical antibiotic cream, gauze, tape, aspirin etc c) A folding umbrella or raincoat. It will rain in Landour and later in Delhi during the monsoon d) Basic toiletries if you’re partial to your brand. Ladies, tampons are not easily available in India, so bring enough to last the whole time e) Sunblock f) 6-8 passport photos (you'll need them for the phone form, college ID, Foreigners Residents Registration Office etc) g) Insect repellent and after-bite. This is essential. Post-monsoon is malaria and dengue season in North India and you can never be too careful h) One pair of sturdy sneakers. You will need them for at least one trek and for the daily walk to the Landour Language School while you’re there i) Flashlight
Health Information
Some vaccine regimens take several weeks, SO GO TO A CLINIC WELL BEFORE DEPARTURE. You should consult a travel clinic, such as Miriam Hospital Travel Clinic (be persistent—they tend not to answer the phone!) here in Providence, as soon as you can before leaving for India to discuss shots and medicines needed for travel in India. You should also consult your own physician if you have any specific concerns about your personal health situation. In the OIP Resource Library we also have other books about health issues in developing countries which you may consult. The Center for Disease Control publishes a list of all the vaccines and health precautions it recommends for those planning a stay abroad. The CDC website is http://www.cdc.gov/
7 Malaria is present in some parts of India, including Delhi, and you should consult the travel clinic about malaria medicines. Some medicines have different side effects so make sure you discuss all your options with a reputable travel physician because regular general practitioners may not have the expertise to discuss options for malaria medicines with you. If you decide to take Larium, you can save a lot of money by buying it in India. The pills are $7 each in America and will cost you only a few rupees in India so we suggest buying just enough to last you for the first two weeks, i.e. till you’re able to get to a pharmacy to buy some. It is possible to contract malaria even if you do take medication but it is easily treatable with proper medication and is generally not life threatening, especially if caught early. Also remember to discuss with your travel physician which medication to take if you do contract malaria, so that when you are talking to an Indian doctor you know that he/she is giving you medication that’s compatible with whatever you’re already taking. Be consistent in taking your malaria medication. Frequent stopping and starting only weakens your constitution.
It’s advisable to avoid street food for the first month or so and to be careful of which restaurants you frequent. Program assistants are really helpful in pointing out where to eat out in the first few months. It may be difficult to abstain, but remember that your system (physical, mental and emotional!) is already going through so much that eating food which has not been cooked very hygienically is an unnecessary risk in the beginning. Vegetables should not be eaten raw unless you or someone you trust has prepared them, since they could have been washed in contaminated water. Water should be boiled or filtered before use in cooking and you should use filtered water for drinking and washing fruits and vegetables (mostly anyone you meet will know about R/O water – water cleaned by a Reverse Osmosis filter machine). Bottled water is sold everywhere and is safe to drink. Both apartments are equipped with water filters. Bring with you packets of re-hydrating salts or Gatorade mixes in case you are susceptible to diarrhea. Multi-vitamins are also helpful in case of longer-lasting Delhi Belly.
HIV, as in many parts of the world, is present in India. Please protect yourself if you are sexually active and bring condoms with you from the USA. We would not suggest using condoms manufactured in India (though you do get Durex there).
Dengue Fever and other mosquito-borne diseases have been a concern in New Delhi over the past half a decade or so, especially during and following the rainy season. It is advisable that students carry ample quantities of their choice of insect repellant and take care to ensure that the doors and wiremesh windows at their apartments are securely shut. Apartments are also provided with electrically operated vaporizer-repellants. When outdoors, students should try to wear full- sleeved clothing to keep their arms and legs covered and not leave home without applying repellant. Locally manufactured repellants are effective and readily available.
Medicines
It is strongly recommended that students bring enough prescription medication for their entire stay. In general, medications cannot be sent via international mail.
8 Prescription drugs have the additional problem of brand name-changes from place to place. Make sure all medication is labeled clearly and keep it in the original containers that show the prescription number. You can fill prescriptions with a generic name.
Bring a copy of your prescription along and make sure it is clearly written and indicates the generic name of the drug (this will be helpful to an Indian doctor if you need to explain what you are already taking). This will also facilitate customs clearance into India because customs agents have the right to confiscate medications as illegal drugs unless you can show they are prescriptions. In some cases a physician in India may not fill the prescription provided by your U.S. doctor without first conducting an examination and confirming the diagnosis.
Most over-the-counter medicines are available in Delhi, where they cost much lesser. If you wear eyeglasses or contact lenses, it is a good idea to bring both an extra pair and your prescription. Contact lens solutions may have different ingredients in other countries even if it is the same brand name, so bring enough solution with you for your entire stay, especially if you have sensitive eyes.
Insurance
Be sure to consult your insurance provider for coverage overseas and remember that most places ask for payment up-front and then expect you to get reimbursed from your insurance provider. Contact your health insurance provider for reimbursement forms, and please take these forms with you when you go. This will save you time since you won’t have to write to the office here in the USA. You are responsible for knowing your insurance policy and claims procedures. If you are carrying Brown student health insurance, reimbursement forms are available at the Office of Insurance and Risk in the Brown Office Building. If you have any questions regarding Brown student insurance, you can call or write to:
Cheryl Moan Brown University Office of Insurance and Risk Box 1848 Providence, RI 02912 Tel: 401-863-1703 Email: [email protected]
In addition we provide you with a Brown Travel Assistance Plan which covers evacuation and repatriation as well as some other services. This plan is provided by International SOS (http://www.internationalsos.com) and the contact numbers in case of emergency are:
If calling from Call Alarm Center in At this number U.S. or Canada Philadelphia, PA 1-800-523-6586 Call collect: 1-215-942-8226
9 Mexico Philadelphia, PA Call collect: 00-215-942-8226 South and Central America Philadelphia, PA Call collect: 00-215-942-8226 Europe, CIS, Africa London Call collect: or the Middle East 44-208-762-8008 Asia, Australia Singapore Call collect: or the Pacific Rim 65-6338-7800
When you contact them you must reference the Group membership # 11BSGC000031
The services provided by International SOS range from telephone advice and referrals to full-scale evacuation by private air ambulance. The SOS network of multilingual specialists operates 24 hour a day, 365 days a year from SOS Alarm Centers around the world. However, International SOS is NOT health insurance. Requests for reimbursement for medical care received while abroad should be submitted to your health insurance provider.
You will also be given a wallet size card with important information on how to access International SOS services. Please carry this with you at all times in case you need emergency assistance. REMEMBER: In case of emergency, contact the site coordinator as well!
Weather
June and July are among the hottest months in Delhi. The maximum daytime temperature will probably be in the range of 110 to 117 degrees F. and even the nights don’t cool down very much. Delhi is very dry at this time. Landour, though, will be quite pleasant. It is at an altitude of 7,500 feet and has perfect weather similar to spring in North-Eastern U.S. The monsoon arrives in Landour before it does in Delhi – usually around the third week of June. It gets to Delhi around mid-July accompanied by a fall in temperatures and rising humidity. From then on, it’s pretty muggy until October. The constant heat can seriously drain your energy and you'll have to take the rest and fluids that your body needs to help you stay healthy.
Beginning in October it starts to get cooler and dryer and November is usually the start of the short Delhi winter. It is not a particularly cold winter, but because there is no central heating and buildings are made of cement, they retain the cold. We have room heaters take away the chill. The day temperature by December will be high 60s-low 70s. The nights can dip to the low 40s. If you are staying for the year, you’ll see the temperatures increase in March. By early-May, Delhi will return to its July temperatures.
10 Some books recommended by previous students for reading before you leave:
Adiga, Aravind The White Tiger Dalrymple, William City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi Mistry, Rohinton A Fine Balance Roberts, Gregory Shantaram Roy, Arundhati God of Small Things Rushdie, Salman Midnight’s Children Sainath, P. Everybody Loves a Good Drought: Stories from India's Poorest Districts Sutcliffe, William Are You Experienced Tharoor, Shashi India from Midnight to the Millennium Tully, Mark No Full Stops in India
Pre-Departure Checklist o Prepare yourself! That means having read this handbook and other appropriate OIP publications like the current editions of “The FAQs of Study Abroad” and the general “Study Abroad handbook” and being mentally prepared for the challenge o Meet with your concentration/major advisor to discuss any credit that you want to count for your concentration/major. At Brown, General credit transfers automatically o Check that your passport is valid for at least 6 months past the last date you’ll be in India o Take to India ALL documents that you had to take to the consulate for the Visa interview o Have any medical, dental and/or eye check-ups as recommended o Get all your health insurance information (policy number, reimbursement procedures and forms, list of medical items covered) as well as proof of insurance with dates of policy o Remember any and all medication/prescriptions you need, unless you’re sure that the medication is available in India. Bring original prescriptions with you when you travel. Check with Samar about availability in India o Give the OIP and the Delhi staff your travel schedule for your arrival as soon as you book your tickets
Don't bring too much stuff. Pack so you can carry all your things by yourself.
The Program
Brown’s program in India sends students to St. Stephen’s and Lady Shri Ram College. Brown’s program in Delhi differs from other study abroad programs in India which have study centers and living quarters, and provide their own courses. Students on the Brown program take Indian college courses, independent studies with professors (only at LSR) and follow the normal academic schedule of their chosen college.
11 Brown’s program in Delhi immerses you in an Indian academic environment with the local students. This program works best for those who have specific academic goals which they feel they can achieve in Delhi or for people willing to work to give their general interests specific and focused context. The content of the readings and the papers have to largely be determined by the student in conjunction with the professor (within the limits of St. Stephen's or Lady Shri Ram's curriculum), which makes having a specific focus necessary for the experience to be profitable.
Students in sarees
The Brown-in-India program provides a required course in Hindi and three other courses. Hindi is very useful in Delhi, and you should be ready to devote some amount of effort to learning it, in order to get the most out of the whole experience. Knowing even the most basic of Hindi will make it easier for you to build a life in the city and explore it. Bargaining with auto drivers, shopping, ordering food, asking for directions… everything is made easier in proportion to how much Hindi you learn. People who are not interested at all in learning Hindi would probably have a better time on a different type of program.
The courses at both St. Stephen's and Lady Shri Ram College follow the University of Delhi course structure. Indian students tend to enroll in one department only and are therefore very focused in their work. You however, will be given the opportunity to study within several departments. Past participants on our program have
12 recommended that you try to take at least two courses in the same department so that you are with the same students in the same year on a regular basis.
At St. Stephens, students will be expected to select a minimum two out of the three courses from among honours level courses. At LSR, one of your three courses may be an Independent Study Project specially arranged for your particular interests (Independent Study is not offered at St. Stephen's). Depending on the professor and your topic, you may be able to continue your research after returning to your home institution. Your fourth course will be the required Hindi course.
Class schedules will be posted on one of the general notice boards at your college at the beginning of the term. Regular classes are held from 8:45am -1pm Mondays through Saturdays at St. Stephen's with accompanying tutorials sometimes stretching out until 2:30pm. LSR classes run from 9am - 3:30pm Mondays through Fridays (Saturday is a holiday at LSR). Afternoons at both are open to extracurricular activities including theater, debating, sports and academic clubs.
Students interested in dance or music classes may be able to arrange instruction with a private tutor (private instruction costs are not covered by Brown-in-India). Please check with Samar as soon as possible for assistance in making arrangements. These classes would be considered outside the normal Brown-in-India curriculum and would not appear on your official Brown transcript at the program's completion.
Program Calendar*
Jun 19: Arrival in Delhi Jun 20-21: Short introduction to Delhi, the campuses, Medical Orientation etc. Jun 22: Departure for Landour + Landour Language School Orientation Jun 23: Hindi Classes begin at Landour Language School Jun 27-29: Trek to Nag Tibba Jul 19: Return to Delhi Jul 21: Classes begin followed by College Orientation the same week Jul 25: East West Language Institute (EWLI) Hindi Orientation Jul 28: Hindi instruction commences at EWLI Aug 2-3: Neemrana Fort Palace Overnight trip Sep 6-7: Orchha and Agra Overnight Trip Oct 1-9: October break Oct 31-Nov 2: Pushkar Camel Fair Two-night trip Late-November: First Semester concludes Jan 5: Second Semester commences End-April: Second Semester concludes
* Some dates may change
13 Landour Language School
The century-old Landour Language School, where you will study Hindi, takes its name from a suburb of Mussoorie, a popular North Indian hill station. You will have three hours of language classes here every day, usually in the mornings and early afternoons. The rest of the time is for you to study and explore Mussoorie. The three hours of instruction is divided into four classes (2 grammar classes, 2 reading and writing classes). Your group will be subdivided into smaller groups, with each group having the same four teachers in the same sequence each day. Teachers may overlap between groups. Students have rated this as the most beneficial language-learning experience on the program. The pace of the Hindi class later on in Delhi will be slower; and most local students there may be more inclined to speak with you in English.
Mussoorie sits at an elevation of 7,000 feet, offering spectacular views of the mighty Himalayan peaks on one side and the Doon Valley on the other. It’s a breathtaking experience, viewing the valley of Dehra Doon at night with its twinkling lights. Mussoorie connects to the railhead of Dehra Doon via 22 miles of twisting hill road, originally made for bullock carts. The British developed the city as a hill resort to escape the intensely hot summers in the plains of North India.
Mussoorie still contains many reminders of the past. The library just below Savoy Hotel is well over 100 years old. There are ruins of antiquated breweries and old cemeteries with gravestones dating back to the city’s early years. It is also known for its boarding schools. In the crowded city markets, which you can get to by taxi or a short walk down the steep main road, you can find an amazing collection of shawls. Not far from Valley View (the house where you will be staying) is a cluster of stores named Char Dukan (Four Shops) where you can access the internet, or savor local fare ranging from chocolate pancakes to paranthas (Indian pancakes) and momos (Tibetan dumplings). The hills are covered with deodar (Himalayan cedar), trees that have long borne witness to local history, from the days when Mussoorie was home to but a few shepherd huts and cattle that grazed on the Mansur shrub that would later give the place its name.
The view from Valley View. Those red roofs make up the Woodstock School campus
14 Your mailing Address at Landour:
Valley View c/o Gambhir Singh Landour Cantonment Mussoorie Uttaranchal 248 179 India Tel 011-91-135-263 1385
Program Costs
In order to help you budget appropriately for your academic experience in India we have created a cost information sheet that is available on our website and included in your pre-departure packet. Airfare and living costs are based on our best information but these can change quickly. For the most up-to-date cost information, please visit: http://brown.edu/academics/college/special-programs/international- study/programs/brown-0/brown-india/program-costs-india:
Refund Policy
Any expenses that have been incurred by Brown on behalf of the student (i.e. host institution fees, prepayment of orientation housing etc.) once the student has made a commitment to the program (in writing and/or by submitting the program deposit), will be the responsibility of the student and charged to the student account.
If a student withdraws from a program during the first five weeks from the start date, he or she is eligible for a refund of Brown tuition payments based on the schedule below. Brown is not responsible for indirect costs paid directly by the student, including, but not limited to, passport fees, vaccinations and transportation costs.
Withdrawal prior to the start of the program 100% Withdrawal within the first 14 days 80% Withdrawal between days 15-21 60% Withdrawal between days 22-28 40% Withdrawal between days 29-35 20% Withdrawal after day 35 No refund available
The same refund policy applies for students who leave because of a medical or family emergency. A student who is suspended, dismissed or withdraws while under investigation for misconduct will not be eligible for a tuition refund. Students who choose to withdraw from a program abroad and, subsequently, enroll at Brown during the semester that corresponds to their semester abroad will be responsible for all costs incurred by Brown up to the time they withdrew from the program.
15 If a student withdraws from a program, the deposit paid to confirm his or her place is not refundable. For housing or fees paid directly to the host institution abroad, the refund policy of that institution will be in effect.
Dismissal Policy
The Office of International Programs in consultation with the Site Personnel and the Program Faculty Directors at Brown reserves the right to dismiss a student and require that they leave immediately if in our judgment the student behaves in a manner that endangers him/herself, others on the program or the program’s continued operations. Illegal drug use is grounds for immediate dismissal.
Arriving in Delhi
Let the OIP know your flight information
You must let the Office of International Programs at Brown know the details of your flight into Delhi by sending an email to [email protected] or a fax to 401-863- 3311.
This is necessary so that we can notify our site-coordinator who will then have a program assistant pick you up from the airport in New Delhi. The preferred arrival date is not before June19 and no later than June 20, 2014.
Contact the US Embassy
“All American citizens residing or traveling in India for more than 30 days or who are planning travel in disturbed areas are encouraged to register with the Consular Section. Through registration, the Embassy or Consulate General can know more accurately the number and location of American citizens, should any emergency arise. It also enables a Consular Officer to locate an individual in the event of an family or business emergency back in the United States. The registration card requests information on the local and permanent residences, next of kin and passport information. These cards can assist in the replacement of a lost or stolen passport.”
As you can tell from the quote above, taken from the official guidelines for American travelers in India, registering is not just a bureaucratic formality. The Embassy has medical facilities and can help in cases of legal or bureaucratic problems. In addition to the help of the Site Coordinator, they can be especially helpful if you are caught in a tight spot while traveling. Otherwise, you can register with the Embassy at http://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui
16 Remember to keep a photocopy of your passport, a copy of your Indian visa, as well as a copy of any credit or debit cards you have, separately from the actual documents. It’s a good idea to give copies to the Site Coordinator and to leave a copy with someone in the USA too.
Housing
The apartment you will be staying at in Delhi is leased by the Site Coordinator such that you may enjoy Indian city life from a safe and convenient location. The address and other details pertaining to the apartment will be sent to you following the renewal of our lease with the owner. Your apartment will be cleaned and maintained and your meals cooked by our wonderful housekeeper Mulfa. The kitchen is fully stocked with basics at all times and students are encouraged to cook for themselves on days Mulfa does not come by (app 4-5 days a month). The apartment has a washing machine (temperatures in Delhi being what they are, you won’t be needing a dryer), air- conditioners and room heaters, wi-fi (though there is a ‘Fair Download Limit’ as per law of 150GB per month, after which amount of usage the speed drops to a snail’s pace, so watch your torrents/streaming etc), a common area (with TV + cable package, landline phone, printer and computer speakers, elevator access, power backup (in event of infrequent summertime load-shedding). Linen, towels and toilet paper are provided. You can iron your clothes at home if you choose to but all South Delhi neighborhoods have a local dhobi to whom you can give your clothes to iron for a charge (the equivalent of about 8¢ per garment).
Accessibility
The apartment is about 15mins by auto rickshaw from LSR and about 45mins by combo of metro and cycle rickshaw from St Stephen’s.
College Life
Academics
Semester-long Hindi language course
The Hindi course that students take during the semester/year is held independently of the colleges and arranged by the Site Coordinator. You will receive a month of daily intensive preliminary instruction in Hindi at Landour, soon after your arrival in India. Upon your return to Delhi, you will attend class three days a week at The East West Language Institute. Further details will be given upon arrival in Delhi.
17 St. Stephen’s College
Founded in 1881 by a Christian mission, St. Stephen’s College is one of the oldest colleges of India. There are about 1,200 students currently studying at St. Stephen’s, of which 300 live in on- campus housing. St. Stephen's offers degrees in Economics, English, History, Mathematics, Philosophy, Sanskrit, Physics, and Chemistry.
Lady Shri Ram College for Women (LSR)
LSR is one of the premier institutions of higher education for women in India. It was founded in 1956 by Sir Shri Ram in memory of his wife. Though it sits in bustling South Delhi, the 15 acre campus grounds afford it some calm. The college emphasizes the humanities and social sciences. There are about 1,500 students currently studying at LSR, of which 300 live on campus housing. LSR offers degrees in Commerce, Political Science, Psychology, Economics, Sociology, Statistics, English, History, Mathematics, Philosophy, Sanskrit and Journalism.
The Indian college system
St. Stephen’s College and Lady Shri Ram College are a part of Delhi University and are therefore governed by Delhi University norms. These norms and regulations are applicable to all the colleges that constitute DU. The Indian college system is based on the English educational structure and functions with what American students might perceive as certain ‘rigidities’. Students are not allowed to switch majors after applying, most of the courses in their three years are fixed and are within their major department,
18 and marks are determined by a standardized set of exams. Students take all their classes with students of the same year and subject. They are also required to pass exams in 2 subsidiary subjects, which are usually taken in first year, leaving students to focus on their degree subject for the remaining two years.
Starting Out
Academic tips
After returning to Delhi, the Site Coordinator will help you set up an appointment with the Foreign Student Advisor at each college. This advisor will be giving you academic advice about registration and can help you find your way around campus. You will have to actively structure your courses with the help of the Foreign Student Advisor and your professors in the first two weeks of your time at the college. Because visiting students like yourselves, unlike local students, may take courses in more than one subject area/department, they need to be more careful in arranging these such that the time of one course does not clash with another.
In addition, since students belonging to particular departments spend more time together, you might lose out on building your own social base if you spread your classes out too thin. Classes may also be cancelled or moved so it’s important to make sure your classmates have a phone number to reach you at and that you are in the loop. To make this clearer, if you are interested in philosophy and economics, you should take two courses in one of these subjects rather than one in each. By doing so you’ll be with the same group of students for two courses, rather than in three separate groups. Logistically too, the class schedule may be easier to organize.
You might find that the syllabus gets going more slowly than you are used to. You’ll need to actively work with your professors in the first two weeks to structure course assignments. Don't expect anything to happen too quickly, so plan ahead and leave enough time to get hold of the professors.
If you’re thinking of taking any science classes that involve labs, be aware that the facilities at St. Stephen’s are not currently on par with American universities. For this reason taking science courses is not recommended. If you are interested in taking non-lab sciences, you should inquire as to availability and quality through the Study Abroad Office.
Average student/teacher relationships in India are more formal than at American universities, though it depends greatly on the individual professor. In the beginning it is a good idea to be formal until you get to know your professors and what they expect. Most professors do not have offices or regular hours, so you’ll have to be persistent. Your best bet is to ask fellow students in that subject how you can reach the professor. You can leave notes for professors in mail boxes in the staff room, and when possible it is a good idea to get your professors’ home phone numbers. If you approach them early, most of the teachers are cooperative and flexible.
19 Grading
The Indian system of grading works as follows:
60% and above First Division 50% to 59% Second Division 40% to 49% Third Division 39% and below Fail
However, over the years Brown-in-India has developed a flexible system to enable professor and student to arrive at different assessment criteria depending on the length of the student’s stay (6 or 9 months) and the nature of the course taken. Seek the Foreign Student Advisor's help in putting into place the alternative assessment structure, since it is important that this is clearly established within the first term. This involves clarifying meeting times, types of assignments due, assignment dates and lengths, etc. After the first week you should let the Foreign Student Advisor know roughly what courses you intend taking.
Be especially aware that teachers take a very long time to grade everything. You should talk to the teacher often and as early as possible about evaluations for your courses. It can be a bit difficult getting the teachers to write comments or give grades for essays, because they don’t normally work in that manner.
In and Around College
Sports facilities
At St. Stephen's there are facilities for soccer, tennis, basketball, rock-climbing, handball, badminton, squash, swimming, cricket and table tennis as well as a shooting range and a gymnasium. LSR has facilities for basketball, tennis, table tennis, volleyball, shooting, swimming and badminton. . Student organizations
As most students do not live on campus, societies are a vital part of college life, allowing students to socialize after class before going home.
At St. Stephen's there are sign up sheets for many of the student organizations at the beginning of the year, and these organizations post regular announcements on the bulletin boards in the main hall. Three basic places to look for announcements are the departmental advice boards, ‘Today’s Engagements’, and dedicated notice boards. Some of these are: Philosophical Society, Economics Society, Photographic Society, English Literary Society, Planning Forum (they discuss issues of policy), Fine Arts Society, Gandhi Study Circle, Sanskrit and Hindi Sahitya Sabha (Sanskrit and Hindi Literary Society), Hiking Club, Shakespeare Society (the theatre Society), History Society, Social Service League, Informal Discussion Group, Wild Life Society, Music Society and Cine
20 Club. St. Stephen's also has a tradition of Chess and Bridge, though it’s up to the individual student to make inquiries and seek partners.
At Lady Shri Ram one facet of intellectual life is provided by the Department Associations. They attempt to take the disciplines beyond the confines of the University syllabi, using lectures, film shows, discussions and occasional workshops to raise issues marginalized by the mainstream. A few societies and clubs: The Women’s Development Cell (community development projects on broadly feminist lines through guest lectures, discussion forums, study camps and work with voluntary agencies), The Hive (art club), The Dramatics Society and Dhyana (holistic health and meditation).
Photocopying
There is copying facility near the perking gate on campus at St Stephen’s and one at LSR outside the top floor of the library.
Other libraries
If you don’t find what you need in college, you can look in the following libraries:
Alliance Française American Library British Council Library Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS) Delhi School of Economics Library: It is on the same street as St. Stephen’s, on the Delhi School of Economics campus Max Muller Bhawan Library: With an emphasis on German Indology National Council of Applied Economic Research (NCAER) Public Library: Past students have found this library (close to the Mandi House Metro stop in Central Delhi) to be useful. Their selection is especially good in history. They don’t charge an entrance fee and allow photocopies but don’t permit check-outs. So if the book is in the catalog, it’s there somewhere. UNFPA Library Voluntary Health Association of India (VHAI) World Bank Library
Around Delhi
Delhi is the capital of India, built and rebuilt seven times by numerous settlers, which means a long history going back a few millennia. St. Stephen's College is situated in North Delhi, very close to Old Delhi (also known as the walled city or Shahjahanabad), the capital of the Mughal rulers who preceded the British Raj. The English ruled India for almost two hundred years, until 1947. In 1911 they moved their capital (known as
21 Lutyen’s Delhi) from Calcutta (Kolkata) to New Delhi, building it next to the old Mughal capital.
Today, while the two most recent Delhis have more or less merged into each other, certain differences remain. New Delhi, situated to the south of the old city, is fairly modern. It is spread out, with particularly unique residential areas comparable to inner- city suburbs. Its main attractions are its well planned diplomatic and government enclaves (including the Presidential Palace, South and North Blocks, Parliament House and Connaught Place), all designed by the aforementioned English architect, Edwin Lutyens. Old Delhi on the other hand has a different charm. The narrow streets of Chandni Chowk, for instance, are named after the products that are sold in each one.
Life in Delhi, like all cities in India, attracts both modern and traditional elements of Indian life. As a city, you will be struck by its history, vibrancy and uniqueness.
Cultural Resources
One of the best things about the city is that there is a wide array of festivals, performances and visual art options available to its residents all year-round, and most of these are free. You will receive at your apartment, subscriptions to Time Out Delhi, which should keep you up-to-date on the goings on around town. Supplements in Times of India, Hindustan Times and The Hindu newspapers list cultural events on a daily basis, besides which you can also check with the following institutes for their programs:
Alliance Francaise India Habitat Centre (IHC) India International Center (IIC) Kamani Auditorium Max Mueller Bhavan (Goethe Institut) National School of Drama Sahitya Kala Akademi The Attic Triveni Kala Sangam
*Samar is a good resource for cultural, especially musical events.
Shopping and Eating-Out
Most residential neighborhoods have a central market where you can get all you need to get by on a daily basis. But in case you want some variety, here are some other markets (mostly in the Central to South Delhi region) to which you might like to go:
Connaught Place (food and retail, mid-to-expensive) Dilli Haat (food, handicraft and textile from different regions of India) Greater Kailash M-Block Market (multi-purpose, mid-to-expensive) Greater Kailash N-Block Market (dining and clothing; mid-to-expensive)
22 Hauz Khas Village (food, music and art, attracts young people and expats) Janpath (small shops selling an array of different handicraft items catering to the tourist market; also very close to Jantar Mantar, an 18th century astronomical observatory) Khan Market (book shops and variety of dining options; mid-to-expensive) Lajpat Nagar Central Market (garment, textile and household goods) Palika Bazaar (electronics and clothing; cheap to mid-priced); good for bargaining. Sarojini Nagar (export surplus garment market) South Extension (retail and jewelry; mid-to-expensive) Sunder Nagar Market (brass, antiques and jewelry; upmarket)
Some tips
In the expensive Connaught Place shops the prices will be fixed, but along Janpath and in Sarojini Nagar Market, one can bargain without hesitation. Whining that you are a student living in Delhi is likely to help too. For buying presents though, it’s best to hold off until the end of your stay, when you have a better idea of how much things should cost and your Hindi is better so you can bargain better.
Eating-out
India has an amazing variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian cuisine. Contrary to popular belief, all Indian food is not hot and spicy. Delhi boasts of restaurants that serve food from various parts of India and around the world catering to different budgets and tastes. If you get homesick and feel the need for certain American food products, INA Market is good for almost anything (including turkey around Thanksgiving time).
23 Places and cultural festivals you should not miss
Blind Relief Association for the summer cloth bazaar and the week-long fair during Diwali (the Indian festival of lights), which is great for buying Christmas presents. Chandni Chowk for its amazing paranthas and the spice market in Khari Baori Crafts Museum for live demos of Indian handicraft being made (also has a store) Dilli Haat and Kisaan Haat for handicrafts, momos and Nature Bazaar (usually held towards the end of the year and great for sampling craft and textle from around India) Hanuman Mandir for the Tuesday evening bangle market Humayun’s Tomb the mausoleum of the second Mughal-era ruler of India. The expansive complex has been beautifully restored very recently Jama Masjid (go with a male friend and you can climb the tower and get a great view of Delhi) Jantar Mantar Lodi Gardens especially at sunset and for picnics in early winter Lotus Temple of the Baha’i Faith Mehrauli Archaeological Park this UNESCO World Heritage Site houses the Qutub Minar (a 240 foot watchtower built in 1199) and other medieval structures National Gallery of Modern Art National Museum for its permanent exhibits on Ancient Indian history Old Fort Red Fort the impressive structure from which the country’s Prime Minister delivers his Independence day speech. The fort, the mosque (Jama Masjid) and Shahjahanabad, that the fort faces, were all commissioned by the Mughal ruler Shah Jahan (he’s responsible for the Taj Mahal in Agra too)
Humayun’s Tomb
Transportation
There are five modes of transportation in Delhi. In descending order of cost they are: taxi, auto-rickshaw, the metro, cycle-rickshaw and bus. By law the price is meant to fixed on all but in reality only bus and metro rates end up being non-negotiable.
The most efficient way to travel is the Metro, which can take you to a number of destinations spread across town. Auto rickshaws are convenient and economical too and Taxis are most viable when you travel in a group or have luggage. You will receive telephone numbers for fixed taxi-stand taxis and radio taxis when you move into your apartments.
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You might have to settle on a rate before getting into a taxi or an auto rickshaw because though rates are meant to be fixed by meter, operators often refuse to turn them on and you have to haggle for a good price. If you do get an operator who agrees to go by the meter, make sure the meter is turned on and set to minimum. Be alert to make sure the driver isn’t going around in circles to inflate the fare. Remember that every rickshaw- wallah/taxi-wallah is required to carry a copy of the standardized fare list (some will offer it to you immediately at the end of the journey, others you have to ask to see it). The Night Fares (the higher numbers) are on one side/in one column of the fare list and the Day fares on/in the other. Make sure you’re reading the right one (Night fares apply only between 11pm and 5am). Also remember that there are surcharges for luggage and extra stops.
It’s best to avoid taking local buses, more so in peak traffic hours and at night. Women may face harassment on buses, which is why a few rows of all Delhi buses are reserved for women. Women can ask any man seated in any of those rows to give up his seat. Some women in Delhi will not go on buses if they are mostly empty or have no women on them in order to avoid potential harassment. If you do decide to travel by bus, please go with an Indian friend who speaks Hindi (especially for female students).
The student assistants will get you Metro maps and autorickshaw/taxi rate charts and help you find your way around the city and its transport system.
Safety
Like all cities, Delhi has its safer and less safe areas. For instance, you should never venture into any of the city’s urban forests (The Ridge, Jahapanah, Siri Fort) unaccompanied or even close to dark. The best advice Brown can give you in this regard is to get safety tips from the friends you make in Delhi.
Female students are advised not to give out their cell number or be too friendly to strangers (male) because some gestures you might not think much of in the States are interpreted quite differently in India. Giving out your phone number to a man can somehow project the idea that you are open to constant romantic advances. Please also avoid wearing revealing or overly tight clothes. You will have a better idea of what
25 sticks out once you’ve seen the way women typically dress in Delhi by area and/or occasion. As a general rule, try not to travel alone at night; but if you do end up doing so, have your friends take down the license number of the auto rickshaw/taxi in a way that the driver knows that you’ve done so.
Dating Dating is not recommended in Delhi; expected gender roles will usually not be what you are used to. This is not to discourage you entirely, but to give you a heads-up that in all likelihood you may face issues of immaturity and dishonorable intentions with men and extreme conservativeness with women. Certain acts that may be taken lightly in the States can be interpreted as signs of serious intent in India.
Money and Banking
In India, the unit of currency is the Rupee (Re, plural Rupees - Rs). One Rupee is divided into 100 Paise (p, singular Paisa). There are coins designating Re 1, Rs 2, Rs 5 and Rs 10 and notes (bills) designating Rs 5, Rs 10, Rs 20, Rs 50, Rs 100, Rs 500 and Rs 1,000. The rate of exchange varies but at the time of printing it was about 60 to 1 USD.
Remember to bring your debit/ATM and credit cards along. ATMs are widely available throughout the city, often at walking distance from wherever you find yourself. Most shops, hotels, and airlines accept credit cards though you might have trouble using your card on an Indian portal (to book local flights, say).
Before you leave, check with your bank to see if you will be able to access money through an ATM machine in Delhi and how much they charge per international transaction. Some banks charge a significant fee for cash withdrawals abroad.
Past students have recommended that you to bring upwards of $1,800 per semester for personal expenses, depending on your shopping, traveling, and eating habits.
Also, bring 100 USD in traveler’s check in case something happens to your ATM card. This way you won’t be stranded without money while you wait for the problem to be sorted out or for a new ATM card to arrive from the States.
26 Around India
The 9-day break starting October 1 is a wonderful opportunity to travel around India. However, before embarking on such a trip, go on a smaller weekend getaway to get used to what it means to travel here. Independence Day weekend in August is a good time to do this. Remember to always travel with your passport and FRRO document. Very rarely, a hotel may not take you without the latter.
Delhi is very different from the rest of India. Women outside big cities like Delhi don’t usually wear western clothes. So, if you are planning to travel, try and wear Indian clothing. It might also be more comfortable for you.
Trains
The main mode of interstate travel in India is the railway system. There are three main stations in Delhi, two in New Delhi, and one in Old Delhi. You can buy railways tickets at the station, online, or through a travel agent for a small fee. If you are unable to get a ticket at the station you could try using the Foreigner's Quota, which, as the name suggests are certain train tickets that are reserved for foreigners. For overnight train rides it is advisable to be extra careful of your luggage and valuables. Use a lock to fasten your luggage to your seat while traveling or sleep using your backpack as your pillow.
Buses
Your shorter trips could be done by bus. These run regularly between Delhi and neighboring cities and are quite inexpensive. There are both government-run buses and those run by private companies. These range from the standard non-air-conditioned variety with minimal seat cushioning to ‘Semi-Deluxe’ and ‘A/C Deluxe’ coaches. The Volvo and Mercedes buses are usually the most comfortable and therefore the most expensive too.
Flights Limited time available to travel during your short stay makes flights a more viable option at times (especially over longer distances). These flights can be booked online, at airport counters and sometimes through travel agents. Spicejet, Indigo and Jet are a few trustworthy carriers.
Much of the above information can be obtained in greater detail online from the relevant websites (like indianrail.gov.in and irctc.co.in for train enquiries). For additional help, you will be provided with a Lonely Planet India at your apartment to help you plan your trips. Tripadvisor.in too is a reliable source of information. You can also go to any big bookshop to pick up more area-wise guides like the Outlook 52 Weekend Guides etc. Samar has traveled over most of peninsular, Northern and Himalayan India and you can ask his advise at any time.
27 A Final Note
The Brown-in-India Program offers you an excellent opportunity to enrich your journey. Academically, even outside the college environment (for instance through the GLISP, for Brown students), it offers to you the possibility of interaction with scholars that you would not have had the opportunity to work with back home. You may feel challenged because of the difference in how academic life is perceived between your home and temporary college. But by the time you leave, you would’ve successfully moved past your concerns and earned credit for a semester of work. Similarly for your experience on the Brown-in-India Program, you will find yourself at home in a hitherto largely unfamiliar framework of time, logic, art, humor, ethics and much more.
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