London: Printed by W. Clowes and Sons, Stamford Street, and Charing Cross A HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN SOUTHERN ITALY BEING A GUIDE FOR THE PROVINCES FORMERLY CONSTITUTING THE CONTINENTAL PORTION OF THE KINGDOM OF THE TWO SICILIES. WITH A TRAVELLING MAP, SEVERAL PLANS, &c. FOURTH EDITION, ENTIRELY REVISED AND CORRECTED ON THE SPOT. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STEEET. PARIS: GALIGNANI & CO.; STASSIN & XAVIER. FLORENCE: GOODBAN. ROME: PIALE; SPITHÖVER; GALLARINI. NAPLES: DETKEN. 1862. The Right of Translation it reserved. The English edition of Murray's Handbooks may be otained at the following agents: There follow an extensive list of outlets today (sadly) disappeared. On the cover of this Edition: images include: Trani Cathedral Bitonto Cathedral Castel del Monte Castel dell’Ovo. Naples Two views of Paestum A view of Capri from the mainland A view of Vesuvius Trajan’s Arch in Benevento Greek Gate Velia A period map of Southern Italy The background, vine leaves, is inspired by the ancient Greek name for Italy: Enotria. Preface by the Editor of the reconstruction of this work. (2011) This text is an edited version of one of the once renowned "Murray" tourist guides, a number of which covered various parts of Italy, presumably in support of the travellers on "Grand Tours". The work's original title and year of publication are given in the title page but during editing reference has been made to editions of other years in order to resolve errors, or inconsistencies in the original, or omissions in the electronic scanning. The scanned page images of this work, placed on Internet by GOOGLE at their books site: http://www.google.it/books?id=poU2AAAAMAAJ&hl=en, are the basis on which this publication has been produced. At the site indicated above, as long as Google books is willing to maintain it, the interested reader will be able to confront the present work with the original. This guide was found serendipitously in a search that concerned Naples. At first amused by the descriptions of travel modes now completely disappeared, I became more and more impressed by the wealth of information, historical as well as descriptive, and the reference to classical sources contained in this work and today (2011) not collected in one place, tourist guides having become mainly guides to the more prepossessing and then only superficially. However the book also contained much text that adumbrated the valuable content devoted as it was to mechanics of transport, accommodation, restaurants, malarial or other health risks, quality of water, condition of roads, appearance of population, availability of guides, passport formalities, weights and measures, coinage; all essential knowledge for the grand tour but today overtaken by time and only of curiosity value. So I was induced to attempt a reconstruction of the more essential information of this Guide aiming at a printed version as well as one placed on Internet for download. To achieve these aims a text (as opposed to image) version of the book must be created. Conversion to text allows editing, searching, extraction, division and rearrangement and cannibalisation if desired. In the resulting text, the information about the locations, historical, classical and artistic note has been edited with some care. At the same time notes have been added on events that may have changed radically the objects described - drainage of lakes, WW2 damage (church damage, Monte Cassino razed to rubble etc.) but not about the extensive urbanisation that has turned many a bosky view into cement jungles. A result of editing is that some pages are shortened and others altogether omitted. The close, two column, script of the original sometime generated text that overflowed pages boundaries. In the hopefully more legible present version, some page start or ends have had to be adjusted to compensate. However, page numbering is retained. This will enable indexes and references to remain valid. In retaining the numbering, here and there, it has been necessary to insert blank pages. The "Naples Museum" or the "Bourbonic Museum" described is only a partial description of the present Archaeological Museum in Naples, that in the intervening period has considerably amplified its archaeological content while it has been deprived of the artistic that, when not disposed of by the royal Bourbon family in their exile, have found new homes in other locations, principally in the Capodimonte palace, previous royal residence. It may interest the reader that period guides to the Museum as it existed in 1911 are available on internet sites. In order to follow the narrative of the descriptions, I have had to follow the track of routes as described, with a some confidence that roads have not disappear in the intervening period, but the reader should be aware that it is not the intention of this work to provide a motorist - or even pedestrian- guide. For a vademecum to follow the meanderings of the original, the assistance of detailed maps would be advisable, particularly in the vicinity of larger towns, where it is more likely that radical rerouting will have taken place. I have added at the end of this work ordered lists of vases and pictures from what was then the Naples Museum, as I perceived the discursive nature of the descriptions in the book to be somewhat confusing. I have also inserted an appendix of translations of the classical Latin and Greek quotations and of Latin terms. As banks often say...... Errors and Omissions Excepted! Armando Malagodi Bianco, Near Reggio Calabria. mid 2011 [email protected] Inscribed: Gift of A.C. Finney 4-30-41 (Ed. This inscription appears from the manner of the date - April 30th etc, - to have been written in U.S.A. and the year must be 1941. Within the text of the book, dates are noted in pen, all in winter 1871, presumably the occasions of visits to the places described. From the style of writing one could assume that the owner was from U.K. Hand written dates are given for Naples, The Museum, Sorrento, Capri, and Salerno. PREFACE (Murray's) The present volume completes the series of Handbooks of Italy, being the continuation of that on Rome : it embraces the Southern Provinces of the Peninsula, which until lately (1862 !) formed the continental portion of the kingdom of the Two Sicilies, and that part of the Papal territory which lies between Rome and the frontier of the Italian kingdom on the side of Naples. Considerable alterations have become necessary in this new edition, from the recent political changes that have blotted the Neapolitan monarchy out of the map of Europe, the extension of railway and steam navigation communications, from the information kindly transmitted to the editor on the remoter provinces hitherto little visited by the British traveller, and especially from a careful examination of almost every object and place of interest at Naples and in its environs during a recent residence in that capital The editor has to express his acknowledgments to several correspondents who have enabled him to correct errors and to supply omissions in the former editions of this Guide. Fully sensible that others still exist, which can only be rectified by persons on the spot, he begs again to solicit the assistance of travellers who can supply information from personal observation, and thus render the Handbook of Southern Italy more useful to his countrymen. .................. London Dec.1862 CONTENTS. PAGE Preface v List of Routes to Naples vii List of Excursions around Naples viii List of Routes from Naples Maps and Plans x Introduction 1) General Topography xi 2)Classical Topography xiv Omitted xvii to xxiv Fine Arts - a)Ancient Architecture and Arts xxv b)Medieval and Modern Architecture xxvi c)Sculpture xxvi d)Painting xxvii Introduction - Artists Architects xxviii Sculptors xxviii Painters xxix Books xxxii Maps xxxii Chronological Table xxxiii Routes to Naples 1 Naples - General Information 69 Description of Naples 79 Environs of Naples 173 Excursions from Naples 182 Routes continued (from Naples) 341 Text ends 414 Index to Vases Index to Paintings Appendix of translations of classical texts Alphabetical Index LIST OF ROUTES vii 140. Rome to Naples, by Albano, Velletri (by rly:), the Pontine Marshes, Terracina, Fondi, Mola di Gaeta, Capua, and Aversa; with excursions to Cori, Norma, Piperno, Gaeta, the Ponza islands, Sessa, Roccamonfina, &c. 2 141. Rome to Naples, by Valmontone, Ferentino, Frosinone, Ceprano, S. Germano, Teano, and Capua; with excursions to Anagni, Segni, Alatri, Collepardo, Aquino, Pontecorvo, and Montecasino 22 142. Terni to Naples, by Rieti, Civita Ducale, Antrodoco, Aquila, Popoli, Solmona, Isernia, Venafro, and Capua; with excursions to Leonessa, Norcia, Amatrice, S. Vittorino, Cicolano District, Castle of Petrella, Lake of Scanno, Barrea, Alfidena, and La Meta 36 143. Ancona to Naples, by Porto di Fermo, Giulia Nuova, Pescara, Chieti, Popoli, Solmona, Isernia, and Venafro; with excursions to Ascoli, Teramo, Civitella del Tronto, Gran Sasso d'Italia, Atri, Ortona, Lanciano, Vasto, and the Maiella . 50 144. Naples to Rome, by S. Germano, Arce, Isola, Sora, the valley of Roveto, Avezzano, Tagliacozzo, Carsoli, and Tivoli; with excursions to Arpino, Atina, and Celano, and an account of Lake Fucino . 57 NAPLES page index General Topography 79 General Information . 69 Population 84 Historical do. 81 Antiquities 86 Climate. 84 Ports 88 Gates 87 Castles 89 Bridges 89 Aqueducts, &c. 94 Larghi and Fountains . 93 Theatres .97 Principal Streets, &c. 95 Churches 101 Festivals . 98 Colleges and Scientific Institutions 130 Cemeteries 129 The Museum 133 Hospitals . 132 Mosaics 138 Ancient Paintings 136 Sculpture do 139 Egyptian gallery 139 Bronzes 146 Inscriptions 145 Glasses 149 Cinquecento collection 148 Reserved cabinet 159 Pottery 149 Gems 151 Papyri 150 Small Bronzes 153 Medals 153 Modem Paintings Vases 155 Capi d'Opera 159 Italian schools 158 Libraries .