Destination Eastgreenland
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destination eastgreenland www.eastgreenland.com AMMASSALIK OFFICE P.O.Box 120 3913 Ammassalik Greenland phone +299 98 22 43 mobile +299 59 82 06 e-mail: [email protected] ITTOQQORTOORMIIT OFFICE P.O.Box 505 3980 Ittoqqortoormiit Greenland phone +299 99 16 03 mobil +299 59 92 45 e-mail: [email protected] © Destination East Greenland Layout: Tegnestuen Tita, Nina Spore Kreutzmann Print: Oddi Printing Ltd., Iceland Photos: Erwin Reinthaler, Ole Jensen, Thomas Henriksen, John Christensen Tony De Zinno, Svante Lysén, Karina Bernlow, Pelle Lambertsen Idea and text: Anders Stenbakken, Destination East Greenland History of East Greenland ...a history of endeavour More than four thousand years ago Inuit as it subsequently was called, wintered on the managed to reach the east coast of Greenland east side of Ammassalik Island. Gustav Holm - presumably from the North - by rowing along listed a total population of 413 in the small the shore in boats made from skin. During settlements of the district. periods of unfavourable climatic conditions the The “Trading and Mission Station of Am- isolated communities died out and the area massalik” was founded in 1894. The health and would be deserted until the next immigration. general nutrition of the population improved. It appears that East Greenland was uninhabited The mortality rate fell, and the population star- from 0 - 500 A.D., and that the most recent ted to increase. In 1914 it reached 599 - and to- arrivals of Inuit (the so-called Dorset people) day there are nearly 3000 people in the munici- happened during the 10th century. pality of Ammassalik. During the 18th century there were Inuit The population of Ammassalik reached such settlements along the whole coast of East a high level during the 1920s that there was Greenland. However, during the 19th century not enough employment for everybody. In the population fell drastically. First to die out other words, there were too many people and were the inhabitants of the long stretch of too few seals. Therefore, it was decided to coast from the northernmost point of East build a new town at the mouth of the world's Greenland to just north of Ammassalik. Sub- largest fjord 900 kilometres further north, It- sequently the settlements of the southern part toqqortoormiit. of the east coast became deserted because of On September 4th 1925, the ship Gustav death and emigration to the west coast of Holm arrived Ittoqqortoormiit with 70 colonists Greenland. Thus, the district of Ammassalik be- from Ammassalik on board. During the journey came the only inhabited place on the entire from Ammassalik they had called in on Iceland, east coast. where the colonists had caught a form of influ- The Culture East Greenland During the 18th century several Danish tra- enza, which developed into an epidemic that ...is not scenery - it's savagery ding stations (colonies) were established on the soon claimed some of the oldest of them. The west coast of Greenland and the inhabitants immigration was therefore anything but en- The East Greenlanders' uniqueness from the gradually became Christian. Due to the isola- couraging at first, with sickness, the dismal and rest of their countrymen is clearly reflected in • tion caused by the Great-Ice, no such colonisa- barren surroundings, uncertainty, and lack of the language and culture of the region. The Ittoqqortoormiit tion of East Greenland took place, and the area knowledge of the new country. However, it language of East Greenland is substantially remained practically unknown to anyone out- transpired that hunting conditions were far different from that of West Greenland both in side the local population. better than had been imagined. In the first year its pronunciation and its vocabulary. In 1884 the Greenland explorer Gustav over 1,000 seals were killed, along with 70 wal- During a period of only 110 years the East • Holm succeeded in getting to Ammassalik ruses, 115 bears, 8 narwhales and 71 foxes. It is Greenlandic Inuit have faced many changes, Ammassalik District with a small expedition by sailing close descendants of these colonists, who live in the going from a life in total isolation to being a to the coast. “The Women's Boat Expedition” district today. part of the rest of the world. Satellite TV, Internet, fast food and fashion trends are all visible influences on life here - like anywhere else. However, the cultural roots are deep and strong. In few places, if any, has mankind en- dured more hardship, a more hostile environ- ment and a fiercer competition from nature Nothing can quite prepare you for the rugged grandeur simply to survive. The nature of East Greenland of East Greenland. This is the land of adventure, and has created one of the most specialised hunting nowhere else on Planet Earth will you experience the cultures in the world, which in many ways force of nature in a more pure form. East Greenland is differs from the rest of Greenland. Much has one of the most isolated habitations in the world. Along changed, and a lot of modern amenities have the 2,600 kilometres of coastline you'll only encounter become part of the daily life in East Greenland. two towns and 7 small settlements, inhabited by a little However, in many ways nature still determines more than 3,500 people. There is a natural reason for this living conditions. The knowledge and the very sparse settlement: East Greenland is situated be- proper use of old hunting methods are still the tween the polar sea ice and the Greenlandic Icecap, and foundation of the survival of many families. A is only accessible with supply ships 5 months a year. It's a hunter can have all the modern equipment at pristine wilderness of more than 1,451,000 km2 - larger his disposal, but if he doesn't understand the than Great Britain, Germany, France and Italy put to- nature he'll come home empty handed at the gether. end of the day. Welcome to an epic adventure. 2 3 Ammassalik ...the heart of East Greenland Coming to Ammassalik District you enter the East Greenland. Small colourful wooden houses very heart of East Greenland's exceptional are scattered on the mountainsides, beautifully beauty, and one of the most beautiful and uns- situated by an almost circular fjord and sur- poiled arctic areas in the world. A mosaic of rounded by high mountains. However, don't steep, dramatic mountains, countless lakes, expect to find an antiquated community. Tasii- streams and rivers, waterfalls, glaciers and laq is a modern community with many of the green valleys. Ammassalik radiates a purity, modern amenities found elsewhere in the which has overwhelmed and fascinated visitors world. At the same time traditional Inuit cul- throughout time. ture is present in many layers of the society, The remoteness and isolation of Ammassa- making an interesting co-existence of new and lik has always defined the district as one of the old culture. outposts of civilization. Outside the city of You'll find no factories in Tasiilaq. The Tasiilaq and the five settlements you'll only find population lives with, in and of the natural very few signs of people living here, though environment - the sea, the ice, the mountains the Inuit have been here for centuries. Due to and the animals they catch are vital to their the climate and landscape there is no infra- existence in this part of the world. Tourism has structure outside Tasiilaq and the settlements. become increasingly important over the last 20 In the wintertime the local transportation is by years, and Ammassalik is one of the most visi- helicopter, skidoos and dogsleds. In the sum- ted destinations in Greenland. mertime it's by speedboats and helicopter. Being just south of the Polar Circle, you'll Kulusuk In many ways Kulusuk is an unlikely find the climate in Ammassalik surprisingly com- focal point for travellers; it's a small island, a fortable. Summers are generally warm and dry. mere dot, off the east coast of Greenland. In Winters are relatively mild with lots of snow. other ways it's the perfect place for a rendez- Summer days are long with just a few hours of vous with Greenland. Its international airport dusk. Winter days are short, and the perfect makes it easily accessible by air and frequent time for experiencing the Northern Lights. flights from Reykjavik make it ideal for day trips. Kulusuk is the perfect introduction to Tasiilaq Tasiilaq is located on Ammassalik Is- Greenland; the tiny village clings to the rocky Ittoqqortoormiit land. Around 1800 inhabitants make the town island above a glittering sea of icebergs with the largest in dramatic mountain peaks as a backdrop. Many ...a chance to go to the end of the world of the residents still survive by hunting. Curiously enough, Kulusuk remains relatively In Ittoqqortoormiit you'll find the world's are still dependent on hunting and while immune to Western influence despite the largest fjord system. Together with all its bifur- motorboats and ice dinghies now replace the regular influx of tourists, partly becau- cations it covers an area of about 38.000 km2. kayak and umiak, the dog sledge is still the best se the villagers follow a more tra- Apart from Jameson Land, which is distinctly means of transport in the winter for travelling ditional way of life and partly low-lying, the terrain surrounding the various and hunting. because visitors tend to branches is markedly mountainous, and in Until today hunting, particularly of seals, only stay short-term. many places the mountains rise sharply from walruses, narwhales, polar bears and musk the edge of the fjord.