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Hotel Petres, Naoussa (& 30/ Venus De Milo May Want to Check out the L 22840/52467; 1 Beachcomber Islands Aquatic Playgrounds . 2 Life’s a Beach . 14 Unvarnished & Unspoiled . 21 Sailing Along . 32 Diving’s the Thing . 38 Storied Sand & Surf . 45 Archipelagos & Atolls . 51 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL BEACHCOMBER ISLANDS Aquatic Playgrounds 1 Fraser Island Where Sand Is King Australia Sand is just sand, right? Well, Fraser Island Set into the sand dunes of Fraser Island may change your mind about that. Lying are more than 100 little freshwater lakes, just south of the Great Barrier Reef, this is ringed with dazzling white sand that’s the world’s biggest sand island, an eco- pure silica—whiter sand than the big logical marvel where ancient eucalyptus Pacific beach, in fact. Some, like brilliant rainforest actually grows out of dunes up blue Lake McKenzie, sprang up when to 240m (787 ft.) high. You’d expect it to water filled hardened hollows in the have beaches, but to have an uninter- dunes; others, like emerald-green Lake rupted surf-foamed Pacific beach running Wabby, were created when shifting the length of the island for 120km (75 dunes dammed up a stream. Shallow, miles)—now that’s something special. swift-flowing Eli Creek is as much fun as a Only problem is . you can’t swim there. lazy river ride—wade up the creek for a The currents offshore are just too strong, mile or two and then let the current carry and the shark population is just too, well, you back down. sharky. But there’s an easy way around You should, of course, spend some that: Go inland, where Fraser Island offers time on 75-Mile Beach—it’s actually a so many places to swim, it’s like nature’s highway you can drive along with a four- biggest water park. wheel-drive vehicle (the only cars allowed Previous page: Cape Hatteras beach. Above: Fraser Island. 2 KOH PHUKET on this island). A rusted wrecked luxury to October, Fraser Island is one of Austra- steamship, the Maheno, sits right on the lia’s best sites for seeing humpback beach, offering a rare chance for nondiv- whales returning to Antarctica with ers to see a shipwreck up close; just north their calves in tow (book whale-watching of the wreck loom gorgeous erosion- tours, as well as dolphin- or manatee- sculpted ocher cliffs called the Cathe- spotting tours, from local resorts). Din- drals. At the northern end of the beach, goes even run wild here, one of the purest you can dip into the ocean in the spalike populations anywhere—what’s more Aus- bubbling waters of the Champagne tralian than that? —HH Pools (also called the Aquarium for their tide-pool marine life), shallow pockets of ⁉ Tourist information, 262 Urraween soft sand protected from the waves by a Rd., Hervey Bay (& 61/7/4215 9855 in Aus- natural rock barrier. tralia, or 1800/811 728; www.frasercoast With no towns and few facilities apart holidays.info), or www.fraserisland.net. from low-profile ecotourism resorts, Fra- 1 ser Island has been maintained as a no- ( Hervey Bay (15km/9 ⁄3 miles). frills destination for folks who love wildlife 45 min. by catamaran or barge better than the wild life. It’s a place for K from Hervey Bay. camping out, bird-watching, and bush L $$ Fraser Island Backpackers walking through eucalyptus woods and & low-lying “wallum” heaths that offer a YHA, Happy Valley ( 61/7/4127 9144; www.fraserislandco.com.au). $$$ King- spectacular wildflower display every & spring and summer. Its fringing wetlands fisher Bay Resort, West Coast ( 61/7/ feature pristine mangrove colonies and 4120 3333, or 1800/072 555 in Australia; sea-grass beds, where dugongs and www.kingfisherbay.com). swamp wallabies thrive. And from August 2 Aquatic Playgrounds Koh Phuket Pearl of the Andaman Coast Thailand This classic volcanic island not only has the island towns, like Patong, took on a beaches but also has fabulous views of certain seedy overdevelopment), and beaches—and of shimmering turquoise Thailand’s largest island quickly went from seas and emerald green hills dotting the a hideaway of the beach-loving cogno- horizon. Before Phuket was devastated by scenti to the country’s leading holiday the tsunami that struck Indonesia on destination. Then the tsunami struck, kill- December 26, 2004, the beautiful island ing some 7,000 people in Thailand and province of Phuket (pronounced Poo-get), virtually wiping out resorts on Phuket’s on the Andaman Coast of Thailand, enjoyed beautiful west coast. a bubbling tourism market drawn to its Today this island has rebounded spec- stunning beaches, balmy Indian Ocean tacularly from the catastrophe, with most seas, and mellow vibe. In fact, during high of the destroyed properties rebuilt and season, the island’s prime beaches were new luxury resorts rising up all over the packed with holiday revelers (and some of island. The seas are clear, and underwater 3 BEACHCOMBER ISLANDS coral gardens are reputedly back to pre- You can participate in just about any tsunami splendor (fishermen even report watersports on the island, but the diving spotting large schools of fish they haven’t around Phuket is particularly world-class. seen for years). Fantasea Divers (& 66/7628-1388; Phuket is directly connected to the www.fantasea.net) offers dive packages Thailand mainland at the island’s northern and PADI certification courses in addition tip by the Sarasin Bridge. Renting a car is to full-day dives around Phuket. Scuba the best way to see the island, but driving Cat, in Patong (& 66/7629-3120; www. the cliff-hugging roads on hairpin turns scubacat.com), offers a full range of trips can be heart-stopping—on the roads in for anyone from beginner to expert. The Phuket, anything goes. With a car, you can snorkeling is great on Phuket, too, with beach-hop the west coast and stop in at right-off-the-beach opportunities at places Phuket Town to shop and see colonial like Nai Harn Beach and Relax Bay. mansions built by the moneyed set when You’ll have no trouble finding a viewing the island economy revolved around tin spot that offers cozy seating and sun- and rubber production. You can head to downers to watch the red-tinged sun melt the island’s last rainforest, located in the into the darkening sea. Of course, if you’re Khao Phra Thaw Royal Wildlife after more bustling nightlife, head to the 3 Reserve. Here you can hike and stand 3km (1 ⁄4-mile) beachside strip at Patong. beneath waterfalls and perhaps spot the Lit up like a seedy Las Vegas in miniature, bloom of the rare Rafflesia—the “corpse it’s got bars, nightclubs, discos, malls, and flower”—which looks and smells like rot- such familiar Western chains as Starbucks. ting flesh. It also has hundreds of “hostess” bars, so The island’s west coast offers the most you may want to take the family else- cinematically beautiful palm-fringed where. —AF beaches, many of which have starred in such Hollywood films as The Beach, Res- ⁉ Tourism Authority of Thailand cue Dawn, and The Man with the Golden (TAT), 191 Klang Rd., Phuket Town (& 66/ Gun. Kata and Karon, on the island’s 7621-2213; www.tourismthailand.org). southwest coast, are two of Phuket’s fin- est beaches. Just north of Patong, Kamala ( Phuket International Airport. Bay, Surin Beach, and Bang Thao L $$ Indigo Pearl Resort, Nai Yang Beach have secluded resorts on smashing Beach and National Park (& 66/7632- beaches for those who want to hit the 7006; www.indigo-pearl.com). $$$ Le action in Patong but don’t want to sleep Royal Meridien Phuket Yacht Club, there. North of the main resort areas, Nai 23/3 Viset Rd. (& 800/225-5843 in the Yang, part of Sirinat National Park, has U.S. and Canada; www.lemeridien.com). few facilities but a fantastic beach fringed with casuarina pines. A coral reef just off- shore makes for great snorkeling. 4 THE LIDO DI VENEZIA 3 Aquatic Playgrounds The Lido di Venezia The Lido Shuffle Italy Yes, Venice itself is an island, or rather Hotel des Bains and its beach.) The more a huddled mass of islands. There’s water egalitarian public parts of the Lido beach everywhere. Nevertheless, when the (along Lungomare G. D’Annunzio) are Venetians want a day by the sea, they more of a family hangout, though you can head to another island: the Lido. expect to see a few topless sunbathers While some adventurous tourists make and men in incredibly skimpy Speedos. it out to the Venetian lagoon’s other (And there were my boys in their baggy islands (p. 420), very few opt to spend surfer jams.) The broad strip of fine- their precious days in Venice at the local grained golden sand was convivially beach. If you’re traveling in the summer, crowded, so we could combine sunbath- however, know that Venice can get merci- ing with people-watching. Protected by a lessly muggy and few hotels offer swim- system of outlying dikes, the waters lap- ming pools. With kids in tow on my last ping the beach are calm and shallow, visit, I knew we needed to include a beach great for youngsters (our youngest was day in our vacation. The Lido was the per- only 4 at the time), and almost ridiculously fect solution. warm, practically like a bathtub. The bot- Centuries ago, the Doge’s navy sailed tom’s a little sludgy, but blessedly free of out from this long, thin barrier island, the rocks or sharp shells that make wading which separates the lagoon from the Gulf a problem in the New England waters we of Venice, an arm of the Adriatic Sea.
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