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Design Quest an Advanced Research Journal on Design January-June 2019 RNI NO. UPENG/2018/76546 Volume 2 | Issue 1 DESIGN QUEST AN ADVANCED RESEARCH JOURNAL ON DESIGN January-June 2019 ere is to the next issue of ‘Design Quest’. This issue His getting on with the topics related to crafts and technology put together for you. This issue becomes special due to the immense contribution coming from the female authors who shared their work with us. The power of fashion is such that clothes can have the ability to empower us from the inside out. Fashion has achieved dynamism in all the eras. It’s changing and every such change is accepted warmly by society. What we decide to wear, from weaving a power suit or a statement T-shirt, sometimes a brand new dress may do the trick of outfitting a renewed sense of From confidence. While these changes take place, women play a key role in its expansion. Shifting a paradigm of The a conventional woman who was believed to take care of the domestic front, has led us to create a platform Editor’s for them where their needs are heard and addressed. They are turning into potential entrepreneurs apart from Desk... being the domestic leaders. With women having a limited choice of what to wear, the condition was yet more stringent with Muslim women. The traditional Islamic values require these women to wear a ‘Burqa’. The burqa is the most concealing article of all Muslim veils. It has travelled mile to reach a point where it is now available in interesting designs and patterns. It comes in a variety of colours, shapes, fabrics and design. The domestic and international markets are flooded with a wide range of Burqas, Hijaabs and Niqaabs giving business to our economy. Not even in the front, women affect the fashion industry from being even behind the scenes. Embroidery nevertheless beautifies the fabric by giving it a new life. It is deeply rooted in the cultural history of countries like Afghanistan and India. Primarily done by the women and girls at home, the intricate patterns created using cotton, silk and wool threads, makes the fabric more vulnerable. This art has connected these two nations bringing them close and opening new channels to Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 expand business leading to a sustainable livelihood for people. Other than embroidery, Batik is one of the world’s oldest living art form. With the help of wax, beautiful designs and patterns are printed on silk and khadi fabrics. Varied styles like animal figures, geometrical motifs and floral motifs are printed using this art. Innovative materials for printing and surface ornamentation have been explored to come up with eco- friendly solutions to the industry. The issue also looks into unique amalgamation of art and society in Prayagraj. To conclude, it would not be wrong to dedicate the expansion of the fashion industry worldwide to the women and their extreme love for fashion. Dr. M. C. Goswami Editor Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 t is my proud privilege to publish the second Iedition of ‘Design Quest’. This is a journey into the corridors of knowledge and information where we have tried to make it diverse and multifaceted. As we learn from our experience, we will be tapping new areas of research and innovation. We would like to bring to our readers new avenues of awareness and learning. I hope that the edition will provide our readers with new areas of knowledge. Foreword... Manjulika Gautam (Retd. IAS) Publisher 3 Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 Dr. Manawwar Alam Editorial Professor & Dean, Bachelor of Arts Board (Mass Media), SFI Dr. Vandana Jaglan Programme Coordinator, Bachelor of Design (Textile Design), SFI Ms. Neetu Malhotra Programme Coordinator, Bachelor of Design (Fashion Design), SFI Ms. Priyanka Sarkar Programme Coordinator, Bachelor of Arts (Mass Media), SFI Dr. Sakshi Shail 4 Examination Coordinator, SFI Mr. Ujjwal Ankur Programme Coordinator, Bachelor of Design (Foundation), SFI Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 From The Editor’s Desk 01 Foreword 03 NTS Carboxy Methyl Tamarind Kernel Thickener for Printing Silk 06 E Burqa: Then and Now 14 Kumbh - Prayagraj: Confluence of Art and Society 21 Role & Contribution of Women in Indian CONT Fashion & Its Regional Development 28 Afghan Embroidery: Counting Threads towards 5 Sustainability and Freedom 39 A Comparative Study of Innovative Approaches in Motifs for Batik Print 51 Evolution of Jeans: From Cowboys to Catwalks 57 A Step Towards Sustainable Ornamentation in Garments: Bio-Plastics Over Plastics 64 Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 | Dr Harshita Chaudhary & Ritika Malhotra Carboxy Methyl Tamarind Kernel Thickener for Printing Silk By Dr Harshita Chaudhary & Ritika Malhotra Abstract Printing is an integral part of textile colouration whilst thickeners are an essential part of textile printing. In recent years, concern for the environment has created an increasing interest in eco-friendly, biodegradable and non-toxic products. Keeping this in mind, the present study investigates eco-friendly carboxymethyl tamarind kernel powder (CM-TKP) as a thickening agent for printing silk with acid dyes. In the current study, silk fabric samples were printed using different concentrations (3%, 5%,7%) of CM-TKP and were steamed for various intervals of time (30, 40, 60 minutes) at varying temperatures (90°, 100°, 110°C). A 7% concentration of thickener, a steaming temperature of 1100C for 60 minutes was optimized as printing conditions on the basis of a qualitative analysis. The colour values of samples steamed at 60 minutes were found to be higher than samples steamed for 40 minutes, followed by samples steamed for 30 minutes. The maximum values of K/S 6 were seen in samples steamed at 110ºC at all the three given concentrations of CM-TKP, thus indicating better fixation of dye at high temperatures. Silk samples steamed at 110ºC for 60 minutes, gave excellent fastness to washing as well as rubbing. They exhibited no colour staining and fading and were rated 5 on the grey scale. On the basis of these results, CM-TKP exhibited the potential to be explored as a novel textile thickener. In addition, the unique properties of CM-TKP, i.e., high viscosity at low concentration, cold water solubility, low cost, good shelf life and better microbial resistance compared with other polysaccharides (both natural and synthetic) qualify it to be considered as an efficient thickener in textile printing. Keywords: Silk, Printing, Eco-friendly, Carboxymethyl tamarind kernel powder, Acid dyes, Colour value Introduction The resulting multi-coloured patterns have The art of printing is the most important attractive and artistic effects which enhance of all the processes used to decorate textile the value of these fabrics far above plain materials. Essentially, printing is a form dyed ones. of dyeing in which colors are applied to Colouration is achieved with the incorpora- specified areas instead of to the entire fabric. tion of dyes or pigments in the printing paste. Design Quest | An Advanced Research Journal on Design | Volume 2 | Issue 1 January-June 2019 Carboxy Methyl Tamarind Kernel Thickener for Printing Silk A successful print involves correct colour, and non-toxic to the human body and posit sharpness of mark, levelness, a good hand no health risks. Presently, researchers are and an efficient use of coloring component. looking for low-cost substitutes for conven- To restrict the coloring matter to the design tional gum thickeners with better shelf life area, it is pasted with a thickening agent (Supaluk et al., 2011). Carboxymethyl tama- which may be a natural or synthetic polymer. rind kernel powder (CM-TKP) seems to be Thickener imparts stickiness and plasticity to an economical alternative. Due to the chemi- the printing paste which, in turn, prevents the cal modification of crude tamarind kernel dye from spreading outside design outlines powder with carboxymethyl, the derivative even under high pressure. Thus, the main CM-TKP has enhanced swelling properties function of thickeners used in printing is to in water and produces a highly viscous paste hold dye particles in the desired place on the (Manchanda et al., 2014). It also has bet- fabric, until the transfer of dye into the fabric ter microbial resistance than crude tamarind and its fixation is complete (Thombare et kernel powder. CM-TKP is a natural, sus- al., 2014). The thickener must maintain print tainable product without any harmful effects sharpness (prevent spreading of colour be- on the human body, unlike synthetic thick- yond the boundaries of the design till steam- eners (Babel et al., 2015; Bhadoriya et al., ing or curing is completed to effect dye fixa- 2011).Carboxymethyl tamarind seed gum is tion). During steaming, the adhesive nature made by modifying tamarind kernel powder 7 of the thickener holds the dye particles, while derived from tamarind seeds, which are a by- the fabric becomes saturated with steam; product of tamarind fruit and its pulp. Thus, during steaming, a chemical reaction takes it has the potential of being explored as a place, giving the dye its fastness properties, novel thickener for printing silk fabric. while the whole system is exposed to high The present work was undertaken with the temperatures, moisture and time. The pres- aim of determining ideal printing condi- ence of a sufficient amount of the thickener tions for attaining high performance prints is a necessity if good marks or the definition on silk fabrics using acid dyes and carboxy- of a pattern is to be maintained throughout methyl tamarind kernel powder as a new the steaming operation, especially in the fine thickening agent.
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