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Battered Beauties a Research on French Simone Bijlard Battered Beauties Battered Beauties A research on French colonial markets in Cambodia by Simone Bijlard Colophon Research thesis Battered Beauties By Simone Bijlard Committee members: dr. G. Bracken (research) ir. R.J. Notrott (architecture) ir. E.J. van der Zaag (building technology) Delft University of Technology Department of Architecture MSc 3, 4 Explore Lab March 2011 Preface Large ceiling fans turn lazily overhead, even though home when they drank their own Chardonnay. barbecues sizzle with savoury sausages. the blazing heat has disappeared with the setting of But it is a rêverie, only existing in these few While eating my dessert - a baked banana - I wander the sun. The rhythmic sound of the fans, combined restaurants in the colonial quarter of Phnom Penh. around the stalls of the market. Although the market with my first glass of wine in a while makes me For life in Cambodia has moved on. The French is about to close, there is still much to see. Some comfortably drowsy. I lean backwards in my large left and brought upon the region, one could say, a vendors are desperately trying to sell their last fresh cane armchair and watch the waitresses in their blood-stricken conflict. It resulted in a genocidal produce. I see whole pig’s heads, live tortoises, meticulously tailored dresses pass by. A musician communist regime. colourful heaps of fruit, the latest fashion. plays on a bamboo xylophone, making me even So how much is there to say about the French? Towering above my head is a grand structure, more at ease. punctured with many openings. The last evening There are other people sitting at the verandah; Sitting at a plastic stool in front of a market stall light falls through the openings and casts long quietly chatting, reading a newspaper or enjoying the I eat freshly made noodle soup. As a starter, I had shadows on the adjacent walls. Evening has brought music. White people, to be sure. marinated chicken thighs. Not your watery European a relief from the heat, but a slight breeze inside A platter of typical Asian starters is served at our chickens, but with meat on their bones and taste the market makes it even more comfortable. The table, presented with beautifully carved fruits and to their flesh. As a dessert, shall I pick some sweet building I stand in is French, crafted many decades vegetables. The crispy wontons and spring rolls are sticky rice or a baked banana? ago, but still so very much alive. So very useful and handmade, but look nonetheless splendid and taste Next to me sits a Khmer family, slurping their smart. similarly. The same counts for the terrificamok , noodles away. Both father and children pour so And I wonder again; maybe this built legacy is the served with sticky rice packed in banana leaves. many dried chilies over their soup that I would start one thing there is to say about the French. I wonder; this must be a taste of the life colonials to cry if I had to eat it. At another table Khmer have led in Cambodia. Not even sixty years ago. How guys, slightly younger than me - but possibly much they must have enjoyed the peace and quiet after a older as Khmer people seem to have found the key Simone Bijlard hot and sweaty day; how they must have thought of to eternal youth - play a card game. Behind me, Amsterdam, March 2011 5 Acknowledgments I owe my gratitude to the people I met on my travels. Dang Nhat Minh: your companionship on that one day in Ho Chi Minh City has given me very warm memories. To Theodora Burgeat and Yam Sokli, my thanks for your openness and honesty. Thanks to Darryl Collins: what a pleasure to meet you and your nearly-never-ending knowledge on Cambodia and its built environment. My gratitude goes as well to Gregory Bracken, for his unrelenting enthusiasm (“I am absolutely delighted!”), excellent guidance and recommendations. Subsequently I would like to thank Ad Bijlard en Marieke Polder, for having faith in me and my studies for such a long time now. And finally I want to thank Rob Konterman: I could not have wished for a better companion on this journey. 7 Content Preface 5 Acknowledgements 7 Battered beauties - Introduction 13 This thesis 15 Cambodia 15 1. Crowds from one end to the other - The indigenous market 17 1.1. Markets in pre-colonial Indochina 19 1.2. Countryside markets in present-day Vietnam 20 1.3. Concluding 23 2. Building a France away from France -The French colonial market 25 2.1. Changing attitudes 27 2.2. Building a colonial town 28 2.3. Société Indochinoise d’Études et de Constructions (S.I.D.E.C.) 30 2.4. Concluding 31 3. A problem with memory - On the relevance of architectural heritage 33 3.1. The preservation of built heritage in Phnom Penh 35 3.2. A problem with memory 36 3.3. The preservation of built heritage in Battambang 38 3.4. Concluding 39 4. Skinned frogs and slithering eels - On the present-day functioning of markets 41 4.1. Shared principles 43 4.2. Four case-study researches 43 4.2.1. Phnom Penh: Psar Thom Thmei 45 4.2.2. Battambang: Psar Nath 46 4.2.3. Kompong Cham: Psar Thmei 48 9 4.2.4. Ho Chi Minh City: Cho Ben Thanh 50 4.2.5. Stall typologies 52 4.3. Vendors and customers 54 4.4. Concluding 56 Battered beauties - Conclusion 59 Final conclusion 61 Building bridges - Epilogue 63 A typological research on covered bridges 65 Battambang’s bridges 67 Concluding 68 Notes 69 Literature 72 Appendices 75 Appendix A: S.I.D.E.C. 75 Appendix B: market plans 79 Appendix C: conversations 83 10 List of maps, tables and figures Figures Psar Nath, Battambang front cover E.6. Chenhyang Wind & Rain Bridge, Sanjiang 64 Psar Nath’s battered clock-tower 12 E.7. Steel bridge across Sangker, 1916, demolished in 2008 67 1.1. Cut-out from “Luang Prabang’s Market” 16 E.8. Concrete bridge across Sangker, 2008, replacement of steel bridge 67 1.2. “The city of Luang Prabang” 18 E.9. Concrete bridge across Sangker, 1916 67 1.3. “Luang Prabang’s Market” 18 E.10. Section across Sangker in front of Psar Nath 67 1.4. “The Phnom Penh Pyramid” 21 Psar Thmei, Kompong Cham back cover 1.5. “The Phnom Penh market in the late 1860’s” 21 1.6. Countryside market in Vietnam 22 1.7. Countryside market in Vietnam 22 Maps 2.1. Aerial view of the Central Market or Psar Thom Thmei 24 Indochina and Mekong 14 2.2. Hôtel de Ville in Saigon 26 2.1. Battambang 28 2.3. Musée Louis Finot in Hanoi 26 4.1. Phnom Penh 43 2.4. Shophouses in Battambang 29 2.5. Aerial view of Psar Nath in Battambang 30 3.1. In Phnom Penh, shophouses from the French colonial period 32 Tables 3.2. Hotel Renakse 34 4.1. Stall typologies 52 3.3. Psar Thom Thmei and its extensions 34 3.4. Battambang’s Heritage Protection Area 37 4.1. Fresh fish sold from the street in Battambang 40 4.2. West - East section Psar Thom Thmei 44 4.3. South - North section Psar Nath 46 4.4. East - West section Psar Thmei 48 4.5. East - West section Cho Ben Thanh 50 4.6. A man with an ambulant profession 55 The rear side of Psar Nath 59 E.1. A French colonial bridge in the Mekong, Si Phan Don 62 E.2. Whites Bridge, Michigan, USA 64 E.3. Pont de Rohan, Landerneau 64 E.4. Ponte Rialto, Venice 64 E.5. Ponte Vecchio, Florence 64 11 Battered beauties Introduction Although French rule over Indochina ended In order to graduate as a Master of Science at in 1954 after the Battle of Dien Bien Phu1, Explore Lab - in itself a graduation studio at colonial buildings still dot the towns of today’s the Faculty of Architecture, Delft University of Cambodia. Among these buildings are covered Technology - both a research and a design project markets; large concrete structures, stylish in have to be successfully completed. design. Up until today these buildings function This thesis is written in completion of the research from early dawn until nightfall; they vibrate project. It is an exploration of the history and daily with life. However, as time has passed and war, functioning of the covered markets built under genocide and poverty have stricken Cambodia, French colonial rule in Cambodia. It shows why these buildings have fallen into dilapidation. these structures should be preserved and explores Time has made them into battered beauties. what has defined their architecture. How to restore these beauties to their original This graduation project will be finalised with a Psar Nath’s battered clock-tower splendor, while respecting today’s habits? design for the modernisation and extension of one (source: author’s photograph) of Cambodia’s markets. 13 C H I N A T O N K I N Hanoi Luang Prabang L A O S Vientiane Hué S I A M A N N A M Bangkok Battambang C A M B O D I A Kompong Cham Phnom Penh Saigon C O C H I N C H I N A I N D O C H I N A 0 100 200 km Indochina and Mekong (source: author’s drawing) Cambodia Although one would be better off reading Chandler’s A History of Cambodia to fully understand Cambodia’s history, a brief overview is given here as it will prove This thesis helpful with understanding this thesis.
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