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Mad About Madagascar By Cox & Kings • Issue 23 • Winter 2015–16 Mad about Madagascar LOUIS DE BERNIÈRES PETER SNOW A most un-British writer A giant leap into the Middle East JOHN McCARTHY FAST TRACK India through his daughter’s eyes China by high-speed train A CHRISTMAS TREAT FOR ALL THE FAMILY The Times ROYAL ALBERT HALL 020 7838 3100 28 December 2015 – 2 January 2016 royalalberthall.com A Royal Albert Hall, Lunchbox Theatrical Productions and Raymond Gubbay Ltd presentation. Nuts_On_Ice_B5_250x176.indd 1 15/09/2015 17:50 COMPASS WINTER 2015-16 The days are growing short and another year is coming to an end. But before you start making plans for 2016, how will you remember 2015? It’s human nature to look forward rather than back; it’s why Robert Burns prompts us to remember “old acquaintance” in Auld Lang Syne. But how do you capture a memory? Acclaimed author of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, Louis de Bernières told me he found his grandmother’s war-time diaries so evocative, they inspired Welcome to Welcome his latest novel (p12). And, also in this issue of Compass, broadcaster John McCarthy reveals how his young daughter plans to immortalise their exciting train trip together across India using the online building game Minecraft (p26). Photographs are an increasingly important way to capture our memories. Although the humble holiday snap is being elevated to extraordinary new heights, according to Guardian journalist Will Coldwell in Something to Declare (p72). Compass This issue of Compass is packed with exciting new destinations and experiences for 2016. Whether exploring the colourful Indian city of Kolkata (p22), riding China’s new high-speed train network (p46) or marvelling at Madagascar’s flamboyant wildlife (p36), there’s plenty to look forward to in the New Year. And wherever your travels take you, please do share your experiences and photographs with us. We always love to hear from you. Jennifer Cox Editor Compass is published twice a year by Cox & Kings Travel Ltd WRITE TO COMPASS MORE FROM COMPASS SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES SALES ENQUIRIES We love to hear from our For more from the Compass To ensure your free copy To find out more about a readers. To submit your own team, including articles of Compass, please email destination or to book your letter for publication, please and inspiration from past [email protected], holiday, please speak to write to compassletters@ travellers with Cox & Kings, stating your name, postal one of our travel experts coxandkings.co.uk plus competitions, please visit address and email. Or call on 020 3813 5108 coxandkings.co.uk/compass 020 7873 5006 coxandkings.co.uk/compass Winter 2015–16 • Compass 3 CONTENTS • WINTER 2015-16 Journeys KOLKATA 22 26 INDIA31 CHINA Compass ITALY Winter 2015 EGYPT -16 Contents 46 50 54 Life Editorial 12 Guest Traveller • Louis de Bernières discusses love, war and his latest novel Editor: Jennifer Cox 88 Step Back in Time • Christopher Somerville walks the banks of the River Severn Deputy Editor: Eleanor Day 90 Charity Spotlight • Magic Bus on their latest project in India Online: Kimberley Hay 98 One Giant Leap • Peter Snow recalls his first trip to the Middle East With thanks to Philip Hamilton-Grierson, Nigel Hosking, John Patterson, News & Views Ariane Mick de Vizcaino, 6 Dear Compass… • Your letters and stories Neill Prothero, Owen Walker, 7 Insight • The insider’s view from DK Eyewitness Louise Stanion, Michael Fleetwood, 8 New Directions • What’s new at Cox & Kings Andrew Gibb, Tim Hunter, 16 Hot List • The best new winter openings Ellen Cross, Thomas Saunders 72 Something to Declare • Will Coldwell on travel photography trends & Rachel Nicoll. 80 Not to be Missed • Forthcoming UK events 81 On a Plate • Foodie news Art & Design 82 A la Carte • The latest from MasterChef Travel Designer: Ben Harrison 94 Behind the Scenes • Cutting-edge comfort with Etihad Airways Artworker: Ines Menendez Illustrations: Matt Broersma (mattmatt.com) Reviews Images: Nick Gregan (nickgregan.com), iStockphoto, 74 Bookmark • Book reviews Bigstock and Shutterstock 78 Wanted on Voyage • Must-have travel gear Printer: Warners 79 Beauty Spot • Best beauty buys (warners.co.uk) 84 A Taste of the World • Wine reviews Advertising Advertising manager: Mark Stacey Competitions For advertising opportunities in print or online, please email 6 Dear Compass… • Caption competition [email protected] 20 Travel in Focus • Photography competition or call 020 7873 5006 96 Crossword • Cryptic brainteaser 4 Compass • Winter 2015–16 Cox & Kings Travel WINTER 2015-16 • CONTENTS Compass Contributors MADAGASCAR John McCarthy is an acclaimed writer and broadcaster whose books include You Can’t Hide the Sun (2012), an account of his five years as a hostage in Lebanon and a modern exploration of the Middle East. John has travelled extensively for the BBC, ITV and Al Jazeera, and regularly presents Something Understood on BBC Radio 4. In this issue of Compass, John experiences the delights of ST KITTS & NEVIS KITTS ST India by train, with his daughter Lydia (p26). 36 40 CHILE AUSTRALIA Richard Madden is a travel writer, Discovery Channel presenter and ghost writer for Bear Grylls. Richard recently returned from 18 months in Africa, writing and filming theBush Telegraph column for the Daily Telegraph with his wife Sarah COSTA RICA COSTA (telegraph.co.uk/bushtelegraph). Read about their wondrous encounters with wildlife in Madagascar on p36. 62 68 Andrew Humphries is author of numerous travel PETER SNOW guides to Egypt for Lonely Planet, Dorling Kindersley and National Geographic. He also writes for the Sunday Times, Observer and Condé Nast Traveller. Inspired by his latest book On the Nile in the Golden Age of Travel (AUC Press), Andrew recalls the highlights of Nile cruising on p50. Will Coldwell is a journalist for the Guardian, writing about LOUIS DE BERNIÈRES LOUIS 98 travel, culture and society for 12 Guardian Travel. In Something to Declare (p72), Will asks how far would you go to get the perfect travel photo? @will_coldwell w willcoldwell.com. Caroline Eden is a travel writer specialising Look out for the chance in emerging destinations. to win a pair of Harman Regular contributor to the headphones, tickets to the Wildlife Photographer of the Guardian, Financial Times and Condé Nast, Year 2015 exhibition, and and occasionally to Radio 4’s From Our Own much more. Correspondent, Caroline maps out the rise of 12 China’s high-speed rail network on p46. @edentravels A Central Asia cookery / travel book, Samarkand by Carole Eden (Kyle Books, £23.00) is published Spring 2016. coxandkings.co.uk/compass Winter 2015–16 • Compass 5 DEAR COMPASS • NEWS & VIEWS Dear Compass... Dear Compass, I was delighted to read Alex Johnson’s article in the latest Compass issue about the ‘improbable libraries’ popping up all over the world. As much as I can understand the convenience of all the latest reading gadgetry, I will always favour the good old paperback! Judith Green, Somerset Dear Compass, Just a little tip to your readers: if you’re planning a short trip to Seville, don’t forget to visit the Triana district. I went to the city recently on a short break with a friend and, although the cathedral and Giralda Tower are quite breathtaking, I wish I had crossed the Guadalquivir river and discovered this district a little earlier on in my stay. It’s full of ceramics workshops, rustic bars and pretty little churches. Make sure to look up as there are lots of little architectural flourishes on the buildings, and plenty of plaques dedicated to bull fighters and flamenco dancers who used to live here. It’s worth a wander. Alan Brook, Cambridge STAR LETTER Dear Compass, Dear Compass, Say What? My husband and I have just returned How lovely to see Egypt being promoted from a wonderful trip to Morocco. again [New Directions, summer 2015]. I The thrill of Marrakech’s souks travelled there with a friend this year: and watching fishermen haul their the sights along the Nile were truly We’ve launched a new caption boats up the beach in Essaouira spectacular, and the people we met so competition! Come up with an amusing is something we’ll never forget. friendly. I hope more people will start to caption for the image below, 10 words One thing though: eating at one of reconsider it as a holiday destination. maximum, and send to: Djemaa el Fna’s food stalls, we were [email protected]. perplexed by what sounded like Regards, a giant mosquito – a high pitched Michael Dawson, London The winner will receive a copy of Everest. whining sound – above. Then we Mountain Without Mercy by Broughton spotted what looked like a huge Coburn (National Geographic, £18.99) insect, before realising it was a drone! Thank you for your letter Mr Dawson, Apparently this is the new way to take I hope our Nile cruising article on p50 a video of your holidays! I can’t say I of this issue brings back wonderful like it. memories – Jennifer, editor Yours, Karen and Mike Powell, Lancs 6 Compass • Winter 2015–16 Cox & Kings Travel NEWS & VIEWS • INSIGHT Go inside some of the world’s most Insight striking landmarks, with publisher DK St Vitus’s Cathedral, Prague, Czech Republic Work began on the city’s most distinctive landmark in 1344 on the orders of John of Luxembourg. The first architect was the French Matthew of Arras. After his death, Swabian Peter Parler took over. His masons’ lodge continued to work on the building until the Hussite Wars. Finally completed by 19th- and 20th- century architects and artists, the cathedral houses the crown jewels and the tomb of “Good King” Wenceslas.
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