©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip M 14 Top Experiences ...... 4 ICHAEL KOHN Welcome to .... 13 14 Need to Know ...... 14 TOP EXPERIENCES If You Like...... 16 Month by Month ...... 18 COUNTRY & CITY REGIONAL • The original • Cultural Itineraries ...... 21 • Comprehensivep • Day trips & itineraries • AdvAdventurousentturouss • In-depth Outdoor Activities ...... 26 Know

Regions at a Glance ...... 33 Currency » tögrög (T)

Naadam Festival Mongolians love their naadam (p222 ). With two or three days of serious wrestling action, awe- 1 some horse racing and dazzling archery, who wouldn’t? While ‘naadam’ literally means games, the celebration is much more than that. It’s all about fun, getting together with friends and relatives, eating a lot of khuushuur (mutton pancakes) and emptying a vodka bottle or two. The most traditional festivals happen in small towns, where every member of the community is somehow involved. These When to Go village naadams are also super-photogenic – you’ll snap more photos than you ever thought possible.

18 Top Events Month Naadam, July Mongol Khövsgöl Nuur Daguur B National Park

RUSSIA •# Golden Eagle Fe É Chu GO Jun–Aug Ugtam Uul •# # •# by Altai Tavan Bogd Khatgal Ice Fest •# É National Park É GO Jun–Sep Dadal Bayan-Uul # GO May–Sep Tsagaan Sar, Feb # Dadal É •# É Month •# Camel Fe # # Batshireet Toson # É February GO Jun–Aug Dornod •# •# Khulstai Choibal Arkhangai GO May– Binder •# •# GO Jun–Sep Baldan Baraivan Khiid •# •# Öglögchiin Kherem •# ULAANBAATARÉ •# #_ •# Khökh Nuur Kherlen locals. It will be bitterly cold The long w Ömnögov Bar Khot but skies are usually clear. lack of fodd # GO May, Aug–Oct Chinggis •# January livestock th Khaan É Öndörkhaan Cold. Damn Cold. Frozen Bulgan Camel for horse ri DISCOVER ENCOUNTER HIKING PHRASEBOOK Statue Baruun-Urt •# toes and eyelashes cold. z Festival Warm to hot summers, cold winters But that doesn’t mean you This event happens dur- Mild summers,Nav cold winters É The Best-of Pocket-sized É can’t visit the country. ing Tsagaan Sar. You’ll see z • • Hotels, restaurants and camel polo, camel racing festival begi most other services still and other camel games. Ölgii on 22 family feast • Photo-packed • Easy-to-use •# operate. This is a good time for short winter Ice Anklebone ditional gam Dariganga •# É walks in Terelj. z Shooting Inspirational Highlights •# • • Khamaryn Competition Khiid

Two Weeks Eastern Mongolia

Eastern Mongolia oՖ ers a delightful romp through grass historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid Heading east from UB, you’ll pass the new Chinggis Khökh Nuur, a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation northeast, visiting Baldan Baraivan Khiid, Öglögchiin K Looking for other travel resources? er as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. Ther

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 205 Learn about the big picture, so you MONGOLIA can make sense of what you see

Mongolia Today ...... 206 if Mongolia were History ...... 209 100 people The Mongolian Way of Life ...... 219 LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE Naadam ...... 222 For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, The Mongolian 95 would be Mongol (mostly Khalkh) advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Traditional Gers ...... 225 5 would be Turkic (mostly Kazakh) Way of Life chapters lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine Every Mongolian, no matterr how long he or she has lived in a city, is a mad at heart. The nomadic way of life was born out of necessity in this Spiritualism in gion as herders were forced to move their animals over the steppes in sea of grasslands. But even as new technologies were introduced, the coun remained a nomadic one, in large part because the nomadic way of became more than a necessity – it became an unbreakable lifestyle. Wh Mongolia ...... 228 today, more than ever, Mongolians are lured to the city in search of wo many choose to stay on the land with their animals, unable to give u STAY IN TOUCH reedom and independence aՖ orded to them by their traditional lifestyle Mongolian Cuisine ...... 231 Ingredients for Life lonelyplanet.com/contact Mongo ian nomads have two crucial tools at their is osa a. The À rst Tribal Mongolia ...... 234 AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 twitter.com/ lonelyplanet Wild Lands & Wildlife ..... 237 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 facebook.com/ Trans-Mongolian Paper in this book is certified USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 against the Forest Stewardship %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 lonelyplanet Railway ...... 242 Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially lonelyplanet.com/ beneficial and economically viable UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT management of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

mongolia-6-cover.indd 2 30/03/2011 1:41:29 PM PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 36 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

Northern Mongolia Western p109 Mongolia Ulaanbaatar p180 p38 Eastern _ Mongolia Central Mongolia p138 p79

The Gobi p155

PAGE SURVIVAL YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE 245 How to get around, get a room, GUIDE stay safe, say hello

e you a not hard to to pitch you walking dist Directory A–Z ...... 246 aimag capit To wash probably ne local town’s Transport ...... 261 are listed un tion entries aware, thou Directory houses aren À nd in Turke Health ...... 278 Mongolia th getting a ho A-Z If the ow dog) give yo camping ne Language ...... 282 idea for ext Bookings erwise cam Accommodation It’s a good idea to book from other The prices listed in this book ahead for any accommoda- have little o Index ...... 292 are for a standard double tion. In rural areas, accom- Western co room in the high season (sum- modation is limited; so if you so be prepa mer). Tax (10%) is almost turn up at the same time to open you always built into the price. as a big tour group or if a inside at an Outside Ulaanbaatar ac- government conference is tion is need Map Legend ...... 299 commodation price ranges underway, you may À nd ev- You can o are deÀ ned as: ery bed already booked out. water, cook You also need to book ahead meat and d $ Less than T25,000 for accommodation in Ulaan- from nearby baatar especially the guest- for other go

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Michael Kohn, Dean Starnes

Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

ULAANBAATAR ...... 38 Dulaankhaan ...... 113 SÜKHBAATAR...... 151 ...... 114 Baruun-Urt ...... 152 CENTRAL Amarbayasgalant Khiid . . . .116 Dariganga ...... 153 MONGOLIA ...... 79 BULGAN ...... 118 Shiliin Bogd Uul ...... 154 TÖV ...... 83 ...... 119 Around Shiliin Bogd Uul . . .154 ...... 83 Bulgan City ...... 121 Bogdkhan Uul Strictly Around Bulgan ...... 123 THE GOBI ...... 155 Protected Area ...... 83 KHÖVSGÖL ...... 123 DUNDGOV ...... 157 Eej Khad (Mother Rock) . . . 86 Mörön ...... 124 Mandalgov ...... 157 Nalaikh ...... 86 Uushigiin Uver ...... 127 Baga Gazryn Chuluu ...... 159 Around Nalaikh ...... 86 Khövsgöl Nuur National Süm Khökh Burd ...... 159 Terelj Area ...... 87 Park ...... 127 Erdenedalai ...... 160 Gachuurt ...... 90 Chandman-Öndör ...... 133 Ongiin Khiid ...... 160 Khustain National Park . . . . 91 Around Chandman- Saikhan-Ovoo ...... 161 ÖVÖRKHANGAI ...... 92 Öndör ...... 133 Ikh Gazryn Chuluu ...... 161 ...... 93 Darkhad Depression ...... 134 Ulaan Suvraga ...... 161 Shankh Khiid ...... 95 Mörön to Terkhiin DORNOGOV ...... 161 Kharkhorin () . . . 95 Tsagaan Nuur ...... 136 Sainshand ...... 162 West of Kharkhorin ...... 100 Around Sainshand ...... 163 East of Kharkhorin ...... 101 EASTERN Choir ...... 165 ARKHANGAI ...... 102 MONGOLIA ...... 138 Ikh Nartiin Chuluu ...... 165 ...... 103 KHENTII ...... 140 Zamyn-Üüd ...... 166 Tsenkher Hot Springs . . . . .105 Öndörkhaan ...... 141 ÖMNÖGOV ...... 166 Ögii Nuur ...... 106 Delgerkhaan ...... 142 ...... 167 Khar Balgas ...... 106 Khökh Nuur ...... 143 Around Tsetserleg to Terkhiin Baldan Bereeven Khiid. . . . .143 Dalanzadgad ...... 168 Tsagaan Nuur ...... 106 Öglögchiin Kherem ...... 143 Gurvan Saikhan Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Binder & Batshireet ...... 144 National Park ...... 169 Nuur National Park ...... 107 Burkhan Khalduun ...... 144 Bayanzag ...... 170 Dadal ...... 144 Khanbogd ...... 171 NORTHERN DORNOD ...... 146 Bulgan ...... 171 MONGOLIA ...... 109 ...... 147 ...... 171 SELENGE ...... 111 Kherlen Bar Khot ...... 150 Bayankhongor City...... 172 Sükhbaatar ...... 112 Buir Nuur ...... 150 Shargaljuut ...... 175 Altanbulag ...... 113 Khalkhiin Gol ...... 150 ...... 175 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Amarbuyant Khiid ...... 175 Khar Us Nuur ...... 200 Ekhiin Gol ...... 175 Achit Nuur ...... 200 GOV-ALTAI...... 175 Khyargas Nuur National Altai ...... 177 Park ...... 201 Eej Khairkhan Nature ZAVKHAN ...... 201 Reserve ...... 178 ...... 201 Sutai Uul ...... 178 Zagastain Davaa ...... 203 Great Gobi Strictly Otgon Tenger Uul Strictly Protected Area ...... 179 Protected Area ...... 204 Tosontsengel ...... 204 WESTERN Telmen Area ...... 204 MONGOLIA ...... 180 BAYAN-ÖLGII ...... 182 Ölgii ...... 183 Tsambagarav Uul National Park ...... 187 Tolbo Nuur ...... 187 Sagsai ...... 187 Tsengel ...... 188 Altai Tavan Bogd National Park ...... 188 ...... 190 Khovd City ...... 191 Khar Us Nuur National Park ...... 194 Chandmani ...... 194 Tsenkheriin Agui ...... 195 Mönkh Khairkhan National Park ...... 196 UVS ...... 196 ...... 196 Uvs Nuur ...... 199 Üüreg Nuur ...... 199 Kharkhiraa Uul & Türgen Uul ...... 199 Khökh Nuur ...... 200 21

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

#_ ULAANBAATAR BULGAN É

É É #÷ ARKHANGAI Erdene Khustain Nuruu Tövkhön KHENTII

Zuu Khiid National Park •# É Eej Khad Khiid•# •#

TÖV •# É Orkhon

Khürkhree É ÖVÖRKHANGAI Süm Baga •# Khökh •# Gazryn Burd Chuluu

Ongiin Khiid •# É DUNDGOV

Ulaan •#

É Suvraga É BAYANKHONGOR Bayanzag •# Khongoryn É Els •# ÖMNÖGOV

•# É Yolyn Am

Two Weeks The Big Loop

Spend a day in Ulaanbaatar visiting Gandan Monastery and the main museums. On day two, head south to the eerie rock formations of Baga Gazryn Chuluu and the ru- ined castle at Süm Khökh Burd, stopping at Eej Khad, Mother Rock, en route. From Süm Khökh Burd, stop by Ulaan Suvraga on your way south. At least three days are needed to explore Ömnögov: check out the spectacular ice canyon at Yolyn Am, the massive sand dunes at Khongoryn Els and the dinosaur quarry at Bayanzag. From Bayanzag, go north to the ruins of Ongiin Khiid desert monastery, a perfect place to organise a camel trek. Leaving the Gobi, your fi rst stop is Erdene Zuu Khiid, the country’s oldest mon- astery. Head west up the Orkhon Valley, to Tövkhön Khiid and then onto the Orkhon Khürkhree. The waterfall is the perfect place to unwind after a long trip to the Gobi, so spend a couple of nights here (and wash away the Gobi dust in the falls). If there’s time on your way back to Ulaanbaatar, spend a night at Khustain Nuruu National Park. , visit # • Ulaan- Khoton Uul KHÖVSGÖL Altai Ta- ight from # • fl Uliastai en route. If Otgon Tenger

É Chandmani ZAVKHAN en route to # • Ikh Agui Ikh Agui , authentic Kazakh villages and . An experienced driver can

. At nearby É GOV-ALTAI Sagsai Khad Üüreg Nuur Khetsuu , though a visit to the base camp and # • or

UVS É Nuur Chandmani Khyargas Nuur Khyargas # • Tsengel Khyargas National Park Khar Us Nuur Valley ve days getting to, from and around getting ve days

É fi #÷ Kharkhiraa Kharkhiraa Valley # • Ulaangom Tavan Bogd Tavan # • Tara # • Green

ight to Ulaanbaatar, but not before mounting a horse ight to Ulaanbaatar, KHOVD É fl , visiting # • . , from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a bird-watch- , from where you can hire a jeep and driver for a # • Nuur Üüreg Khar Us Nuur National Park National Nuur Khar Us Uliastai

É Khovd . You could easily spend a couple of days here before moving on couple of days could easily spend a . You er adventurous travel and exploration. Adrenalin junkies caner adventurous travel . With more time, consider doing a horse trek around . With more time, consider doing a horse trek ff Ölgii Khovd

# • Uul É Tsambagarav ÖLGII BAYAN- ight to ight fl # • Park Sagsai

Otgon Tenger Uul Tenger Otgon Altai Tavan RUSSIA Tsengel Bogd National É # •

, a great place to recharge your batteries. , a great place to recharge your batteries.

CHINA Tsambagarav Uul Tsambagarav

É even possible to go rafting back Sagsai it’s From er a taste of life in the Wild West.

É even possible to support,. With proper equipment, permits and some logistic it’s ff . Allow a week for trekking around Nuur

The western aimags o or mountaineering gear. kayak break out the mountain bike, #÷ Ölgii If you’ve done this itinerary in reverse order, it may be possible to catch a it may If you’ve done this itinerary in reverse order, Start with a Uliastai you can get a pretty From Heading west from Ölgii, spend at least west from Ölgii, Heading Looping Khovd, back through continue northwest pastures and valley to the beautiful Bogd, stop in to or from Tavan On the way From Ölgii, the main road winds northeast, passing From The best time to make this journey is in late September or early October, which gives you The this journey best time to make is in late September or early October, Khoton # • Bogd Tavan de Green Tara (enlightened Buddha). de Green Tara Khovd to Urumqi in Xinjiang. Contact AeroMongolia or EZ Nis in Ulaanbaatar for more in Xinjiang. Contact Khovd AeroMongolia to Urumqi information. or hiking to

One Month Western Mongolia van Bogd National Park van Bogd National you’ll a chance to see hundreds of have before mid-September, you arrive at Khyargas Nuur cormorants that roost here in summer. squawking ing and wildlife expedition to to the renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum for the chance to meetthe renowned throat singers. Stop by Dörgön sum Megjin, bona a fi around Nuur 4374m highest peak, the scale Mongolia’s glacier is more feasible. get Ulaangom to you from gom the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival in Ölgii or Sagsai. the chance to watch the spectacular Eagle Festival to Ölgii. that o

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 23

for a Area Bind- , a pro- Strictly # • Nömrög Protected and an- , a remote and . Continue

É Bayan-Uul on the way to on the way # • CHINA Sainshand khaan Gol Dornod Mongol Dornod Mongol # • # • Khalkhiin É Strictly Dornod Mongol Batshireet , Protected Area Nuur Dalai Sangiin Toson Khulstai Toson Khalkhiin Gol

Mongol Daguur B Mongol É , or travel to , or travel . If you’re interested in meeting . If you’re

to visit

Nömrög Strictly Protected Area # •

É É É Choibalsan # • Chinggis Khaan statue . # • # • Dariganga # • Kherlen

Bar Khot É Ugtam Uul Ugtam Öndörkhaan # • # Baruun-Urt • Öglögchiin Kherem Öglögchiin

, # • É # • Mongol Daguur B and Ugtam Uul # • Toson É Khulstai

Chuluunkhoroot

Bayandun É É . Bayan-Uul # • Khamaryn Khiid Khiid Baruun-Urt

. Khamaryn Binder Dadal É . From Nömrög, in tackle the rough terrain . From , with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered stone statues, , with its sand dunes, cinder cones and scattered # • # • to spot some truly massive herds of gazelle. # • Öglögchiin Kherem ers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest and some unique ers a delightful romp through grasslands, forest # • ff Sainshand # • # • RUSSIA Öndörkhaan # • Khökh Nuur Baldan Bereeven Khiid # • Batshireet

, and nature reserves including É Choibalsan , a pretty alpine lake that saw the coronation of the great that saw alpine lake , a pretty Kherlen Bar Khot

É is another good place for horse trekking or just kicking back with some locals, and is another good place for horse trekking or just Khaan Statue Dariganga region Dariganga Chinggis Heading east from UB, you’ll Heading pass the new # • Sangiin Dalai Nuur Bayandun Eastern Mongolia o Eastern Mongolia historical sights. Best of all, it’s almost completely devoid of tourists. historical sights. Best of all, it’s Return to Ulaanbaatar via The You’ll need another couple of days to visit the lush need another couple of days You’ll Dadal the Ulz Gol further east, you’ll Following Buriat villages, such as pass pretty From Choibalsan the train to take From An alternative route to Choibalsan goes via the nature reserve Baldan Bereeven Khiid Baldan Bereeven as you travel through Khentii’s scenic countryside. There this are ger camps all along Khentii’s through as you travel #_ ULAANBAATAR Strictly Protected Area taste of the Gobi and a visit to requires two or three days. Horse trekking is also possible here. If you happen to be in the trekking is also Horse or three days. requires two this is the time to catch the large migration of swans at Ganga Nuur. area in early October, cient ruins at steppes to across the empty tected area for wader birds, or travel include giant Buddha historical sights. Highlights rivers, wildlife and landscape of lakes, statues carved into a hillside and monuments dedicated to soldiers who died here during WWII. and Eastern Mongolia Two Weeks Two Khökh Nuur er in the mountains. route where you can stop for horse-riding trips visit Zundoi-Davag, sure to a retired hunter Make is an excellent for Naadam. destination who has assembled a small museum at his home. and be fortunatea shaman you may enough to meet one by asking around in this area. Continue south towards northeast, visiting for Mon- # É • Khaan Chinggis # • Monument Camp Mongol War Chinggis Khaan

13th Century É Terelj

# • É National Park in Töv aimag, from where you can in Töv

É Park Khustain National Nuruu

É # • Khiid . There are a number of activity options here,

#_ Mandshir É , where you can sharpen up your tank-driving skills. Mandshir Khiid Mandshir ULAANBAATAR É , where you can watch mini naadams and see artisans horses. On the way to or from the park, stop at the horses. On the way # • takhi Range Mongol Tsergiin Khuree Shooting Terelj National Park National Terelj TÖV É at Tsonjin Boldog. The built the statue also runs the nearby that company at Tsonjin

Park

After a day of sightseeing around UB, head to Aftera day National # •

If you’ve got some spare time to kick around Ulaanbaatar, there is enough to see and do If you’ve got some spare time to kick around Ulaanbaatar, you busy for a few days. to keep around the city Back in Ulaanbaatar, catch a ride to Back in Ulaanbaatar, Next, head east to head east Next, Khustain Nuruu the night to watch the wild Khuree Shooting Range Tsergiin gol hike back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. This trip or as can be done either as a full day back over the mountain to Ulaanbaatar. hike an overnight hike. including mountain biking, horse riding, rock climbing, hiking and river rafting. If you further east to see the enormous vehicle, push on a little your own have Monument Camp War 13th-Century Mongol create traditional products.

One Week One Around Ulaanbaatar Around

24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 25 on the Khori- #_

É Khankh ULAANBAATAR DARKHAN-UUL , make a short, make detour TÖV RUSSIA SELENGE # • Erdenet

Khiid

É É Amarbayasgalant . Then until walk down the lakeshore # • from Ulaanbaatar. Hire a vehicle in Hire from Ulaanbaatar. and then trek your way over the and then trek your way . # • Erdenet Mörön Bulgan

o Mörön t

y , breaking up the journey with a night at Ulaan Uul. Lake Khövsgöl

Fl É ying to fl

É Öndör Renchinlkhumbe # •

Chandman-

É Khankh É # • KHÖVSGÖL . Further east, after passing through . Further area. You’ll need another week to explore this region. area. You’ll Amarbayasgalant Khiid Amarbayasgalant Tsagaannuur Nuruu Saridag É ARKHANGAI Khoridol . Plan for a week of travel in the area. . Plan for a week of travel to the shores of . # • # . Spend a few days relaxing at Nature’s Door Guesthouse and then con- Door relaxing at Nature’s . Spend a few days • # • #÷ # • Nuur cent fi # • Khövsgöl É Bulgan # •

Khatgal

Jankhai Mörön # •

Khatgal É Jankhai # • Renchinlkhumbe Tsaatan camps Tsaatan Chandman-Öndör Tsa a t a n C a m p s Mörön and drive to Mörön Start trip by week one of this The trip back to Ulaanbaatar goes through a remote part aimag to the pleasant of Bulgan From Khatgal, the adventurous will make their way all the way up to all the way Khatgal, their way the adventurous will make From To start week two, get start a lift week two, to To

Tsagaannuur ZAVKHAN Ulaan Uul BAYANKHONGOR tinue on to you reach dol Saridag Nuruu in there are some gorgeous areas east of the lake northern Alternatively, shore of the lake. the aimag capital of to visit the magni In Tsagaannuur, drop into the TCVC and hire a guide and horses to get you out to the taiga Tsagaannuur, In and

One Month Northern Mongolia OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Michael Kohn Coordinating Author, Ulaanbaatar, Central Mongolia, Northern Mongolia, East- ern Mongolia Michael fi rst visited Mongolia in 1997. The fi rst years were spent working as a reporter and editor for the Mongol Messenger newspaper. During that period, he interviewed the president, played a lead role in a Mongolian fi lm, hosted a radio talk show and had a brief stint as a news presenter for a local TV station. His travels have led him to all 21 aimags, occasionally by bicycle or in the back of trucks, and when he is lucky by Hummer with politicians and diplomats. Michael’s articles on Mongolian culture, politics and history have appeared in the New York Times, Wall Street Jour- nal and San Francisco Chronicle. He is also the author of two books, Dateline Mongolia and Lama of the Gobi. He splits his time between Ulaanbaatar and California. Find him on the web at www. michaelkohn.us.

Dean Starnes The Gobi, Western Mongolia Dean has travelled extensively throughout central and northeast Asia, but it wasn’t until 2005 while researching his book Roam: the Art of Travel that he fi nally made it to Mongolia. That trip, which involved several near-death experiences and a growing dependency on vodka, confi rmed his belief that Mongolia remains one of the best places on earth to experience genuine adventure. This trip, however, may have been his last. A shaman he met in Ölgii foretold that he would return to New Zealand and father four children. Until then, Dean is happy to spend his days writing for Lonely Planet, freelancing as a graphic designer and shirking responsibilities. Check out his website, www.deanstarnes.com, for photography and more.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 6th edition – July 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 317 8 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs © as indicated 2011 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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