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Discovering Uruguay: South America's Riviera

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Discovering Uruguay: South America's Riviera For additional reviews, photography and trip videos, view the digital magazine edition of Hideaway Report. { View online or on an iPad® } ANDREW HARPER’S ® JUNE 2012 | OUR 34TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com candid reviews by a writer who travels incognito and always pays his own way financially solid, it is a safe, mostly middle-class country Discovering Uruguay: with excellent infrastructure. South America’s Riviera Uruguay won its independence in 1828 and boomed during the 19th century as immigrants from Europe arrived with the opening of to work in its cattle and meatpacking industries. With a several dramatic new hotels vast, empty interior — most of the 3 million inhabitants live in and around the capital, Montevideo — plus a long in and around the small, coastline similar to the dune-edged shoreline of Cape strikingly beautiful Atlantic Cod, the country is attracting major new international beach town of José Ignacio, investment as a holiday destination. Uruguay has emerged as On our recent trip, the high-season crowd in José Ignacio was a relaxed and interesting mix of American, a discreetly glamorous British and Italian visitors, as well as upper-crust South destination. A simple, sand- Americans, all of whom seemed amused rather than in-your-shoes kind of place where everyone gets impressed by the parade of movie stars and models to be spotted frolicking in the surf or strolling along the broad, around on bicycles, José Ignacio is a complete sandy beach. contrast to the flashier, Miami Beach-like style American Airlines operates the only nonstop flights of nearby Punta del Este. between the United States and Uruguay, from Miami to Montevideo, so many travelers opt for a night or two in Hemmed in by Argentina and Brazil, Uruguay has Buenos Aires before taking one of the many scheduled a character all its own. A Florida-size nation of forests 50-minute flights to Punta del Este. This is what I chose and pampas, it has contrived to avoid the boom-and-bust to do during my 10-day trip in late February, which was a cycles of its neighbors so often that it has become known perfect time to escape the northern winter, but well past as the Switzerland of South America. As well as being the Christmas to mid-January high season. H H IN this issue 5 Boutique Buenos Aires … AND ONLine The chic Algodon Mansion provides » 1 Fashionable Uruguay a new option in the Argentinean capital Essential Montevideo Hotel Fasano Punta del Este » Playa Vik Jos é Ignacio 6 Nicaraguan Retreats Granada Walking Tour Estancia Vik José Ignacio Jicaro Island Ecolodge Granada » Morgan’s Rock San Juan del Sur Trip Photos & Videos 3 A Gourmet Sanctuary Visit AndrewHarper.com to find your Fine cuisine and rural tranquility 8 Reader Requests complimentary digital magazine edition For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected] AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected] With a booming Brazilian economy and relative Arriving on a hot, sleepy Sunday afternoon, Mrs. prosperity in Argentina, Punta del Este is more popular Harper and I enjoyed the warmest welcome we had received than ever. Aside from the appeal of its beaches, climate in a very long time from an efficient and sincere front-desk and nightlife, it has always attracted affluent South staff — a trio of polite 20-something Uruguayan young Americans because Uruguay allows nonresidents to hold men who spoke perfect English. (We’d both been afraid offshore accounts in U.S. dollars — insurance against that the place would be crawling with supermodels and periodic economic crises and the roller-coaster values of be rather full of itself.) Once we’d settled in, we wandered the Argentine peso and Brazilian real — and also to buy over to the pool, which was attractively set amid large dollar-denominated real estate. gray boulders. Though we had it to ourselves, I couldn’t help but thinking it would be too small in the event of a A stylish but quiet place in the ’40s and ’50s, Punta full house. And the bungalows would definitely be more del Este has become a small city, with a growing number appealing if they provided the sort of private plunge of high-rise apartment buildings downtown. As a result, pools that are standard at most Asian or Caribbean hotels those in search of tranquility have been moving north charging similarly vertiginous prices. along the coast to La Barra and José Ignacio or inland Still, we liked our room with its built-in contemporary to the lush grasslands of gaucho country. Tellingly, the furniture and eucalyptus wood floors covered with raw- sophisticated São Paulo-based Fasano Group opened its wool throw rugs. The toast-colored limestone bath came first Uruguayan property, HOTEL FASANO PUNTA DEL with a large stall shower, a single vanity and skylights. ESTE, four miles inland at the Las Piedras development, We would have preferred a few more windows, however, a 20-minute drive north from the busy beaches. since all walls were solid except for the one leading to The centerpiece of the 1,200-acre gated estate is a the private terrace. This was reached through a pair of beautifully renovated chacra, or traditional brick-and- sliding screen doors and proved a delightful spot in which timber low-rise Uruguayan ranch house, which is in to enjoy the sweet-smelling night air. dramatic contrast to the 20 concrete-and-glass Deluxe The hotel offers a small spa that includes an indoor Bungalows and 10 Suite Bungalows designed by Brazilian pool, sauna, steam room and six treatment rooms. A architect Isay Weinfeld. These have been sited on a hilltop nine-hole golf course is scheduled to open this year. to assure both good views and maximum privacy. (The Las There are also two very good restaurants. Located on Piedras estate also contains 225 private villa residences.) another hilltop overlooking the Maldonado River and the surrounding countryside, the dinner-only Fasano has an excellent regional Italian menu. There, we enjoyed BRAZIL delicious mozzarella-stuffed ravioli, followed by excellent braised lamb. The more casual Las Piedras in the main 4 lodge also serves Italian food in a trattoria-like setting. GARZON Very much a hotel for couples, the Fasano was quiet URUGUAY during the day when many guests were at the beach, ARGENTINA AREA although it became livelier in the evening. To sample OF DETAIL the Saint Tropez-like hijinks of Punta del Este at arm’s MONTEVIDEO Garzón length, this charming, stylish and well-run hotel is ideal. R i o Lagoon d 92 BUENOS e l Deluxe Bungalow, $900; Suite Bungalow, $1,300. Las a P AIRES l a t a ATLANTIC OCEAN Piedras, La Barra, Punta del Este. Tel. (598) 42-670-000. fasano.com.br/hotelaria 2 José Ignacio Lagoon JOSE 3 At a dinner party in Buenos Aires prior to our departure 1 IGNACIO for Uruguay, the first thing the other guests wanted to LA BARRA know was whether we were staying at one or both of Alex Vik’s new hotels, the seaside Playa Vik José Ignacio and the PUNTA 1 Hotel Fasano Punta del Este equestrian-oriented Estancia Vik José Ignacio, about 12 DEL ESTE 2 Estancia Vik José Ignacio miles inland. (A Norwegian-Uruguayan Internet tycoon, 3 Playa Vik José Ignacio 0 5 10 KM 4 El Garzón Vik is now based in Greenwich, Connecticut.) “They’re 0 5 10 MI very expensive but very special,” our hostess confided, so 2 Hideaway Report | June 2012 we made the easy 40-minute drive from Las Piedras to José Ignacio with great expectations. Suffice it to say, we were thoroughly charmed by the town, which reminded Gourmet Garzón us of a Latin American version of Truro on Cape Cod. DRiving noRth FROM Estancia Vik Jose Ignacio, On arrival, you’d never guess this relaxed little place it was a pleasure to putter through the Uruguayan with an old cigar of a lighthouse and a busy playa brava countryside, where rolling pastures are dotted with lean (beach with surf) on the east flank of a peninsula and a horses and piebald cows and punctuated by stands of quieter playa mansa (beach with calmer waters) on the oak and eucalyptus trees. west was anyplace fashionable. Our destination was Garzón, a tiny town 20 miles north of José Ignacio, which has recently undergone The PLAYA VIK JOSE IGNACIO is the work of a renaissance at the hands of urbanites from England Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott, who also designed the and the United States, as well as from Buenos Aires. Contemporary Arts Center in Cincinnati and the Opéra Having succumbed to its charm, these outsiders are Bastille in Paris. The property opened last year and busy restoring the old brick houses that line the streets comprises four suites and six pavilions (with two or three around its tidy main square. Among them is Argentine bedrooms). A spectacular lap pool is cantilevered over chef Francis Mallmann, proprietor of EL GARZon, a an expanse of lawn, and museum-quality modern art is pleasant five-room property with a superb restaurant. displayed in the sculpture pavilion, a striking structure Although not a luxury destination, this distinctive containing two pieces by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, among hotel is very comfortable — the air-conditioning works those of other world-class artists. Overall, the place has perfectly and there’s plenty of hot water — and also has an an upscale bohemian personality. irresistible “The Last Picture Show” charm. On our arrival The seafront complex is surrounded by a wall that at noon, Guido, a friendly Argentinean, helped us with encloses limestone, concrete, titanium and glass structures our bags and settled us into a small but pretty room with in a landscaped garden.
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