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Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS who are a joy to work with, and to McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated all the fellows in Lonely Planet’s World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Many thanks to the travelers Oakland warehouse, who are Climate Classification’,Hydrology who used the last edition and always kind enough to let me and Earth System Sciences, 11, wrote to us with helpful hints, rummage around. 1633 ­44. useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Steffen Beck, Filip BETH KOHN Cover photographs: Front Bosmans, Sara Camici. (clockwise from top): Pacific The biggest round of applause Ocean landscape with Bixby goes to Sara Benson and Suki Canyon bridge. Big Sur, AUTHOR THANKS Gear, plus cheers to Laura , John Elk III/Lonely SARA BENSON Stansfeld, carto queen Alison Planet Images; Golden Gate Lyall and coauthor Nate Without everyone at Lonely Bridge, San Francisco, California, Cavalieri. Thanks to Alexis Planet and my California Sabrina Dalbesio/Lonely Averbuck, Dominique Channell, coauthors, this book would Planet Images; 1948 Chevrolet John Vlahides and Ryan Ver not have been so much fun. Fleetmaster Woody Wagon with Berkmoes for their work on surfboards Car Culture/Corbis. Big thanks to my Golden State previous editions. Lots of love Back: Yosemite Falls, Yosemite friends and family, especially the to Claude. Picketts for their hospitality. PS National Park, California, Radius Images/Lonely Planet Images to MSC Jr: Only 185,000 miles?! PUBLISHER NATE CAVALIERI THANKS Thanks much to Suki Gear and Climate map data adapted the Oakland publishing team, from Peel MC, Finlayson BL &

THIS BOOK Cartographer Corey Hutchison Image Research Nicholas Coordinating Layout Designer Colicchia This 2nd edition of California’s Mazzy Prinsep Managing Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Best Trips was researched Editors Annelies Mertens, Jennifer Bilos, Lucy Birchley, and written by Sara Benson, Angela Tinson Managing Laura Crawford, Janine Eberle, Nate Cavalieri and Beth Kohn. Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Ryan Evans, Jennye Garibaldi, Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Alexis Alison Lyall, Diana Von Holdt Joshua Geoghegan, Chris Girdler, Averbuck and Amy C Balfour Managing Layout Designer Liz Heynes, Laura Jane, Jennifer also contributed some of Jane Hart Assisting Editors Johnston, David Kemp, Gabriel the text. This guidebook was Cathryn Game, Helen Koehne Lindquist, Wayne Murphy, Trent commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Assisting Cartographer Paton, Martine Power, Kirsten Oakland office, and produced by Karusha Ganga Assisting Rawlings, Raphael Richards, the following: Layout Designers Clara Monitto, Cameron Romeril, Mik Ruff, Julie Commissioning Editor Suki Jessica Rose Cover Research Sheridan, Laura Stansfeld, Matt Gear Coordinating Editor Timothy O’Hanlon Internal Swaine, John Taufa, Gerard Sophie Splatt Coordinating Walker, Juan Winata 369 INDEX

17-Mile Drive 172 Aztec Hotel 320 Big Sur village 155, 159 Bigelow Meadow 144 A B Bishop 220-1 accidents 367 Badger Pass 209 Bixby Bridge 154-5 accommodations 25 Badwater 333-4 Black Sand Beach 117 Agate Beach 128 Baker 333 Blair Valley 362 Aguereberry Point 335 Bakersfield 266, 267 Bodega 102 Ahjumawi Lava Springs Bakersfield Sound 264, 266 Bodega Bay 101-2 State Park 143 Balboa Island 278 Bodie 223 Alabama Hills 218 Balboa Park 285-6, 290 Bodie State Historic Park 223-4 Alcatraz 51 Balboa Peninsula 305 Bohemian Hwy 101, 105 Amador County Wine Banning 354 Bolinas 53, 54, 56-7 Country 231-3, 235 Barker Dam 344 Boonville 109, 113 Amboy 316 Barstow 316, 321 border crossings 366 American Valley 248 Bartholomew Park 96 Borrego Springs 361-2, 363 Ancient Bristlecone Pine Bass Lake 53 Forest 222 Box Canyon 362 Bassetts 249 Anderson Valley wineries 110 Bridgeport 224 Bay Bridge 64 Buck Rock Lookout 212 beaches 22 155 Buellton 190 Bear Flag Republic 94 Angels Camp 230 Bunny Flat 135, 145 Bear Valley 72, 239-40 Año Nuevo State Park 165 Burbank 307-8 Beatty 337, 339 Anza-Borrego Desert State business hours 25 beer 138 Park 361 byways 23 Berkeley 64, 67, 75, 77 Aptos 65 Big Basin Redwoods State Arcadia 319 Park 166 C Arcata 122-3, 126, 138, 139 Big Bear Discovery Center Cabazon 354, 355 architecture (Scotia) 119 328, 329 Calaveras Big Trees State Armstrong Redwoods State Big Bear Lake 327-8, 329 Park 239, 243 Reserve 102-3 Big Morongo Canyon California Cavern State Arnold 239 Preserve 343 Historical Landmark 230 Avenue of the Giants Big Pine 220 Calistoga 83, 84, 85-6, 89 118-19, 121 Big River 110-11 Cambria 39 Avila Beach 181-3 Big Sur 17, 41, 153-59 car insurance 364

377 car rental 24, 364-6 Dante’s View 335 Ebbetts Pass Scenic Byway Cardiff-by-the-Sea 288-9 Dean, James 184 237-43 Carlsbad 289, 291 Death Valley 331-9 Edna Valley 181 Carmel Valley 174 Del Mar 288, 291 elephant seals 41, 165 Carmel-by-the-Sea 172-3, 175 Del Norte Coast Redwoods Elmer’s Place 317 Carquinez Strait Regional State Park 130 Embarcadero 286, 290 Shoreline 258 Delta Loop 256-7 Emerald Bay 199 cars, see driving DeRose Winery 66 emergencies 24 Carson River 242 Desert Hot Springs 343, 347 Emigrant Canyon 335 INDEX Castle Lake 146 Dewey Point 209 Empire Mine State Historic

Park 234 C-G Cayucos 39 Disneyland 14, 275, 276, 281 Cedar Grove 212, 215 Disney’s California Encinitas 288-9, 291 cell phones 24 Adventure 275, 276 Esalen Institute 158 Central Valley 261-7 DL Bliss State Park 199, 203 Eureka 44, 47, 126 Chester 247 Donner Lake 200 Chez Panisse 52, 75 Dorrington 239 F children, travel with 23 Downieville 250, 251 Fall River Mills 143 Chowchilla 264 driving 364-8 Fanette Island 199 Clarksburg 255, 259 accidents 367 Father Crowley Point 335 climate 24 breakdowns 367 Feather River 246 Coachella Valley 346 car rental 24, 364-6 Feather River Scenic Byway Coleman Valley Rd 101 documents 364 245-51 Coloma 234 driver’s license 364 Felton 166 Columbia 229-30, 235 fuel 24, 368 Fern Canyon 129 condors 155 insurance 364 Ferndale 120, 121 Cornerstone Gardens 92-6, 97 maps 366 Ferry Building Marketplace Corona del Mar 279 parking 368 72-4, 76 Coronado 36, 284, 290 road conditions 39, 354 flag, California 94 costs 25 road distances 365 Fontana 317 Cottonwood Spring 346 road rules 366, 367-8 food 22, 25 Crescent City 130 safety 366-7 Fort Bragg 43-4, 47, 112 Crestline 326 towing 367 Fortuna 120 Crystal Bay 202 traffic violations 367 Founders Grove 118 Crystal Cave 213 websites 25, 368 Foxen Canyon 190-2 38, Dry Creek Valley 104 Freestone 101 279, 281 Duarte 319 fuel 24, 368 Curry Village 207, 209 Dunsmuir 136 Furnace Creek 334, 339

D E G Daggett 316 Eagle Lake 250 Garberville 116-17, 121 Daly City 66 East Fort Baker 52 gas 24, 368 Dana Point 280 Eastern Sierra Scenic Byway gay travellers 104 dangers, see safety 217-25 General Sherman Tree 212 Ebbetts Pass 241-2

378 Ghost Mountain 362 hiking Joshua Tree National Park Giant Forest 212-13, 215 Lost Coast 120 20, 344, 347 Gilroy 300 Natural Bridges 232 Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Glacier Point 209, 215 208 Park 158 Glen Ellen 54, 57, 95, 97 history 22 Julian 359-61, 363 Glendora 319, 321 Hog Island Oyster Company June Lake 223 Goffs 315 72 June Lake Loop 223 Gold Country 227-35 Holcomb Valley 328 Hollister 66

gold rush 231 K INDEX Golden Gate Bridge 14, 43 Hollywood 308, 309, 320, Kenwood 96

321 Golden Gate Park 42-3 Keys View 344-5 G-L Grammy Museum 308 Homewood winery 93 117 Grant Grove 211-12, 215 Hope Valley 242, 243 Kings Beach 201-2 gray whales 54 Hopland 108-9 Kings Canyon National Park Grizzly Redwoods State hot springs 86, 223 209, 211-12 Park 43 Howland Hill Scenic Drive Kingsburg 265-6, 267 Grover Hot Springs State 130 Knott’s Berry Farm 278 Park 242 Humboldt Lagoons State Knott’s Soak City USA 278 Guadalupe 39 Park 128, 131 Guerneville 103, 105 Humboldt Redwoods State Park 118-19, 121 L Gundlach-Bundschu winery 93 Huntington Beach 38, 277-8, La Jolla 37, 288, 289, 291 281, 305-6 LA Live 308 H Hwy 18 328 La Purísima Mission 298-9 Laguna Beach 38, 279-80, Haggard, Merle 264 I 281, 304-5 Half Dome 207, 208 Lake Almanor 247-8, 251 Idyllwild 354, 355 Half Moon Bay 164, 167 Lake Alpine 240, 243 Imagery Estate 94-5 harbor seals 54, 102 Lake Arrowhead 326-7, 329 Incline Village 202 Hawk Hill 51 Lake Gregory 325-6, 329 Independence 220 Healdsburg 104, 105 Lake Hemet 353-4, 355 insurance 364 , around 39, 47 Lake Manly 333-4 internet access 24 Heart Lake 146, 147 Lake Tahoe 19 Isleton 256, 259 Hell’s Kitchen Vista Point Lake Tahoe Nevada State 239 Park 202 Henry Cowell Redwoods J Lakes Basin 248-9, 251 State Park 166 Jack London State Historic Lassen Volcanic National Henry Miller Library 157-8, Park 96 Park 142-3, 147 159 Jade Cove 158 Lava Beds National Hermit Valley 241 James Dean Memorial 184 Monument 146 Hesperia 317, 321 Jamestown 228-9 Lazy Bear Weekend 104 Hetch Hetchy 207, 214 Jedediah Smith Redwoods Legoland 289 Hidden Valley 344 State Park 130, 131 lesbian travellers 104 highlights 8-11, 12-21 Jenner 102, 105 Lewiston 137, 139 Highway 18 328 Joshua Tree 343, 347 Lewiston Lake 137

379 Locke 255-6, 259 Mono Lake 223, 225 Oakville 81-2, 88-9 Lodi 263-4, 267 Montaña de Oro State Park Oasis of Mara 345 Lompoc 298-9 183-4 Occidental 101 London, Jack 96 Montecito 306-7 Ocean Beach 286-7, 290 Lone Pine 218-19, 225 Monterey 19, 41-2, 47, 170-1, Oceanside 289 Long Beach 38, 46 175, 176-7 Ocotillo Wells 362 Los Angeles 28, 298, 301 Montgomery Woods State Olmsted Point 208 Reserve 112 Los Olivos 39, 190, 192, 193 opening hours 25 Mormon Rocks 324-5

INDEX Los Padres National Forest Orange County 273-81 Morro Bay 39, 184, 185 158, 159, 189 Oregon 144

Moss Beach 162-4 L-P Lost Coast 115-21 Oroville 246-7, 251 Moss Landing 174, 175 Orr Hot Springs 112, 113 motorcycles, see driving M Owens, Buck 264 Mt Hoffman 210 Malibu 38-9, 46, 306 Mt Shasta 134-5, 139, 145, Mammoth Lakes 221-2, 225 147 P National Historic Mt Whitney 219-20 Pacific Beach 287-8, 290-1 Site 220 Mt Williamson 220 Pacific Coast Hwy 35-47 maps 366 mud baths 86 Pacific Crest Trail 241, 352-3 Marin Headlands 51, 54 Muir Woods 52-3, 74 Pacific Grove 171-2, 175 Mariposa Grove 209-11 Murphys 238-9, 243 Pacific Marine Mammal Markleeville 242, 243 music 368 Center 280 Mattole River 117 Pacifica 162 McArthur-Burney Falls N Palisades Park 320 Memorial State Park 143-4, Palm Desert 351 147 Napa 55, 81, 88 Palm Springs 14, 342-3, 347, McCloud 144-5, 147 Napa Valley 55, 57, 79-89 350-1, 355 McWay Falls 158 national & state parks 23 Palms to Pines Scenic Byway Mendocino 43-4, 47, 111-12, Natural Bridges 232 349-55 113 Navarro River 109 Palo Alto 66, 67 Mendocino Headlands State Needle Rock 117 359 Park 112 Needles 315 Palos Verdes Peninsula 38 Merced River 207 Nevada City, around 234, Panamint Springs 335-7 Mesquite Flat 334-5, 339 235 parking 368 Mexico, travel to/from 366 Newberry Springs 316 Pasadena 319-20, 321 microbreweries 138 Newport Beach 38, 278-9, Paso Robles Wine Country Mineral King Valley 213 281, 305, 309 184, 185 Mission Beach 37, 287-8, 290 Newton B Drury Scenic Patrick’s Point State Park Mission District 74-5, 77 Parkway 130 127-8, 131 Mission Trail 295-301 Niland 346 Pebble Beach 172 mobile phones 24 Nobel Lake 241 Pescadero 164, 167 Petaluma 71 334 O Petrified Forest 86 Mokelumne Hill 230 Oak Hill Farm 94-5 petrol 24, 368 money 25 Oakland 64-5 Pfeiffer Beach 156-7

380 Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park Robert Louis Stevenson Santa Rosa & San Jacinto 155-6, 159 State Park 87 Mountains National Philo 109-10, 113 Rockefeller Forest 118-19 Monument 351-2 Pigeon Point 164-5, 167 Rough and Ready Island 258 Santa Ynez 192 Pinnacles National Route 66 313-21 Santa Ynez Valley 192 Monument 300 Rubicon Trail 199 Santa Ysabel 359, 363 Pismo Beach 39, 46, 181, Russian River 102, 104 Sausalito 51-2, 56 185 Rutherford 82 scenic routes 15 Placerville 233-4, 235 Schulman Grove 222 INDEX Plymouth 231 S Scotia 119, 120

Point Arena, around 43, 47 Scotty’s Castle 338 Sacramento 254-5, 259, P-S State Natural 262, 267 sea lions 54 Reserve 173 Safari West 87 Sea Ranch 43 Point Reyes 54, 57 safety 366-7 Seal Beach 275-7 Point Reyes National seals Seashore 42, 54, 63-4, 67, Salinas 174 harbor 54, 102 72, 76 Salmon Creek Falls 158 elephant 41, 165 Point Reyes Station 71-2, 76 Salton Sea 346 Sebastapol 100-1, 105 Point Sur State Historic Salvation Mountain 346 Selma 264-5 Park 155 Samoa Dunes Recreation Sequoia & Kings Canyon Port Costa 258, 259 Area 126 National Park 209, 211-12 Port San Luis 182 Samoa Peninsula 126, 131 San Bernardino 317-19, 321 Shasta Lake 135-6, 139 Shelter Cove 117, 121 Q San Clemente 38 San Diego 29, 36-7, 46, Shoshone 333, 339 Quincy 248, 251 292-3, 296, 301 Sierra City 249-50, 251 San Diego Safari Park 286 Sierra Nevada 220, 240, 242 R San Diego’s beaches 21 Silverado Trail 87 Rainbow Falls 222 San Francisco 26-7, 42-3, 47, State Redding 136, 139 50, 56, 58-9, 62-3, 67, 72-5, Recreation Area 325 Reds Meadow 222-3 76-7, 300, 301 Skidoo 335 Redwood National Park 44, San Juan Bautista 299-300 Skunk Train 112 128-30, 131 San Juan Capistrano 297-8, small towns 17 Reedley 265 301 SoCal 303-9 Reno 224, 225 San Luis Obispo 180-1, 185 Solana Beach 288 Rhyolite 337 San Rafael 300 Solvang 189-90, 192, 193 Rich Bar 247 Sand Harbor 202 Sonoma 93-4, 97, 300, 301 Rim of the World Scenic Santa Barbara 39, 46, 188-9, Sonoma Coast 43 Byway 323-9 193, 194-5, 298, 306-7, 309 Sonoma Valley 20, 54, 91-7 Rio Vista 256, 259 Santa Cruz 42, 47, 65-6, 67, Sonora 228-9, 235 Ritter Range 222 166, 167 South Bay 38 road conditions 39, 354 Santa Cruz Mountains 166 South Lake Tahoe 198-9, 203 road distances 365 Santa Monica 19, 40, 320, South Yuba River State Park 321 road rules 366, 367-8 234 Santa Monica Pier 40, 320 roadside oddities 21 Spooner Lake 202 Santa Rita Hills 190

381 Squaw Valley 199-200 Tulare 266, 267 Weaverville 137-8, 139 Squaw Valley Creek Trail Tunnel View 207 websites 25, 368 144-5 Tuolumne Meadows 208, Weed 146 St Helena 82-3, 89 214-15 whale watching 102 state & national parks 23 Turlock 264 whales, gray 54 Steinbeck, John 174 Whiskeytown Lake 136 Stevenson, Robert Loius 83, U Whiskeytown National 86, 87 Ubehebe Crater 337-8 Recreation Area 136-7 Stewart Mineral Springs White Mountain 220 INDEX Universal Studios Hollywood 146, 147 307-8 Whitney Portal 219-20 Stockton 258

S- wi-fi 24

Z Sunset Beach 277, 309 V wildflowers 362 Sutter Creek 231, 235 wildlife watching 54 Vacaville 70-1 Wildrose Canyon 335 Valley of the Falls 328 T Willow Creek 138 Van Damme State Park wine 22 Tahoe City 199 110, 113 Anderson Valley 110 Tahoe Meadows 202 Venice 306, 309 Napa Valley 82, 83 Tahoe Rim Trail 202 Ventura 39, 298 tasting 55, 192 Tahoe Vista 201-2, 203 Victorville 317 Wingfield Park 224 Tecopa 333, 339 Virginia City 224 winter activities 209 telephone services 24 Volcanic Legacy Scenic Temecula 358-9, 363 Byway 141-7 Tenaya Lake 208 Volcano 230-1, 235 Y tipping 25 Yosemite National Park 15, 64 W 207, 208, 209, 210 towing 367 Yosemite Valley 207, 209, 214 Waddell Beach 165-6 Traintown 93 Yosemite Village 207 Walk of Fame 320 transport 25 Yountville 81, 88 Warner Bros VIP Studio trees 128 Tour 307 Yucca Valley 343, 347 Trinidad 126, 131 Waters, Alice 69-77 137 Wawona 209 Z Trinity Scenic Byway 133-9 weather 24 Zumwalt Meadow 212 Truckee 200-1, 203

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