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Russian Gulch, Mendocino Headlands and Van Damme State

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Russian Gulch, Mendocino Headlands and Van Damme State Russian Gulch Our Mission The mission of California State Parks is to provide for the health, inspiration and oaring sea caves, Mendocino Headlands education of the people of California by helping R to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological a rare pygmy forest, Van Damme diversity, protecting its most valued natural and cultural resources, and creating opportunities ocean views from State Parks for high-quality outdoor recreation. Victorian windows — welcome to Mendocino area state parks. California State Parks supports equal access. Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who need assistance should contact the park office at (707) 937-5804. If you need this publication in an alternate format, contact [email protected]. CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS P.O. Box 942896 Sacramento, CA 94296-0001 For information call: (800) 777-0369 (916) 653-6995, outside the U.S. 711, TTY relay service www.parks.ca.gov SaveTheRedwoods.org/csp Russian Gulch, Mendocino Headlands, and Van Damme State Parks Along Highway 1 • Mendocino, CA (707) 937-5804 © 2003 California State Parks (Rev. 2017) O n the Mendocino coast, the air smells The Russian colony had failed by 1841. of salt, and the crashing waves create a The Fort Ross property had various owners continuous resonance. The tall bluffs at this until 1906, when the fort and acreage were spot north of San Francisco resemble the acquired by the State for restoration, rugged shores of the east coast, but with an reconstruction, and interpretation. unmistakable California flair. Victorian-era The Lumber Mills communities that overlook the sea reflect the The brig Frolic sank off Point Cabrillo with its New England roots of their builders who, in San Francisco-bound cargo in 1850. Attempts the ordinary course of life, added volumes to at salvage were largely unsuccessful. California’s colorful history. Little River, Van Damme State Park However, would-be salvagers, who had MENDOCINO AREA STATE PARKS of plenty, native groups often gathered to hoped to find treasures for the taking, looked Two miles north of Mendocino, Russian Gulch share the bounty. When Russian and Aleutian around at the enormous stands of redwoods State Park’s collapsed sea cave cuts 200 feet fur trappers arrived here in the early 1800s, nearby and realized that they had found their into the headlands to form the boiling surge they were likely the Pomo’s first contact with fortune. Within two years, they had built a known as the Devil’s Punchbowl. Mendocino non-natives. sawmill at the mouth of the Big River. is embraced on three sides by unmatched When the Pomo were drawn into the In 1984 an archaeological team from San views from Mendocino Headlands State mission system in the early 1800s, their Jose State University discovered fragments Park. Van Damme State Park, beginning at way of life was forever altered. Within of Chinese porcelain in housepits of a former the mouth of the Little River, has a protected a generation or two, direct conflict and Pomo settlement. This was the first indication cove for divers, a fern canyon for hikers, and exposure to European diseases nearly that the Frolic’s cargo may have been a unique forest of Mendocino pygmy cypress. decimated them. Today about 5,000 Pomo partially salvaged by local native people. The climate here is temperate year-round. descendants, who still occupy parts of their San Francisco engineer Harry Meiggs built Winter rains and cool summer fogs that ancestral lands, gather the raw materials the sawmill at Big River in 1852. By the early usually burn off by mid-morning provide the to make some of the world’s finest Native 1900s, Big River had become an important moisture necessary for the thriving coastal American baskets and to pass on this ancient lumber town. redwood trees. skill to the next generation of artisans. In 1864 Little River was founded as a MENDOCINO HISTORY European and American Settlers mill town to supply lumber to build San Francisco. Heavy logging diminished local Native Americans Settled by emigrants from all over the world, timber resources; by 1893 the Little River Mill The Pomo date back about 3,000 years on the Mendocino area has a long history of had closed, so businesses, services, and the the North Coast. They built their main village entrepreneurial exploitation. In 1812 a ship school were abandoned. of redwood bark houses at the mouth of owned by the Russian-American Company Near Russian Gulch, several small, Big River. The Pomo hunted large and small entered a cove beneath the bluffs of what short-term mills operated until the area game, caught fish and shellfish, and gathered would become North America’s southernmost became “logged over,” but the mills’ pier seaweed, acorns, and various seeds. Russian settlement, Fort Ross. In the 1830s, was used for passengers and freight into the Whatever they could not obtain locally, they the American and Hudson’s Bay trappers next century. acquired in trade with other groups; in times passed through seeking mammal pelts. Gulch . set aside for one of the proposed wetlands areas farther inland. Bishop State Parks.” In 1933 the State acquired the pine and coastal redwoods grow along the land, and on October 21, 1934, Russian Gulch river. The Little River provides habitat for State Park was dedicated. steelhead, coho salmon, stickleback, and The source of the name “Russian Gulch” is both prickly and Coast Range sculpin. Red uncertain. Possibly cartographers charting the alder, willow, grand fir, and western hemlock RUSSIAN GULCH STATE PARK area named it for its proximity to Fort Ross; are part of the riparian plant community, and Devil’s Punchbowl, the park’s most famous others suggest the name came from a fort the park’s Sitka spruces grow at this species’ feature, formed when pounding waves deserter who settled in the area. southernmost limit. Local birdwatchers may sight a yellow warbler, belted kingfisher, forged an inland tunnel and left a hole VAN DAMME STATE PARK Swainson’s thrush, or northern spotted owl. 100 feet across and 60 feet deep. At high Park History tide, roiling waves crash around the cave’s William H. Kent, the first permanent The park was named for Charles Van Damme, American settler in the area, joined the gold interior, producing a reverberant echo. The son of Belgian settlers. Van Damme became photogenic Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge rush in 1850. In 1853 he went to work at the a successful businessman in San Francisco, Little River sawmill and later bought land in rises gracefully 100 feet from the bottom of then returned to Little River to buy 40 acres the gulch. The park has nearly a mile and the area now partially encompassed by Van of redwood forest to create public picnic and Damme State Park. Between 1864 and 1893, a half of ocean frontage; its craggy beauty camping facilities. He left this land to the rivals any point along California’s coast. In lumber operations became Little River’s State. In 1934 this acreage, combined with commercial foundation, and the industry’s the spring, the park’s foggy headlands bloom most of the upper Little River drainage lands, with acres of wildflowers. land holdings came to include much of what became Van Damme State Park. is now the park. Park History Van Damme habitats include marine, The panic of 1893—a five-year economic Lumber operations around Russian Gulch coastal beach, coastal bluff terrace, pygmy depression—hit the American west were modest: shingles, split lumber, and forest, redwood forest, and riparian, with particularly hard. Of 156 national bank railroad ties. In the early 1880s, several failures that year, 66 were in the Pacific states homesteaders filed claims on the land, and western territories. By 1900 the mill and some of it was farmed. Until well into operation was completely shut down. the 1900s, Russian Gulch was a fishing boat harbor and stop for freight and passenger MENDOCINO HEADLANDS STATE PARK ships. In the mid-1920s, F. O. Warner, a Los This 347-acre greenbelt, on the headlands Angeles real estate developer, purchased between Highway One and the Pacific Ocean, land around Russian Gulch to open a resort; surrounds the town of Mendocino. Sheer visitors realized that Russian Gulch was an bluffs rising from a rocky shoreline form the ideal place to spend hot summers. In August park’s southern section. The historic Ford 1928, the Mendocino Beacon reported that House (built in 1854) Visitor Center sits on the Native Sons of the Golden West had the south side of Mendocino’s Main Street. launched a movement “to have Russian Van Damme sawmill Most of the shops on the town’s picturesque RECREATION principal street have excellent ocean views. Visitors can enjoy hiking fern canyons, Park History miles of trails, horse camping, a 36-foot Mendocino was the first of several north waterfall, scuba diving, bluff-top coast towns founded between 1851 and picnicking, camping, and a bicycle trail, 1920—the height of the lumber industry. among many choices. German immigrant William Kasten was bound Camping—Russian Gulch and Van Damme for the gold country in 1850 when his ship State Parks have campgrounds—reservations fortuitously ran aground off the Mendocino are highly recommended from spring through coast. In 1851 he filed papers claiming land fall. Call (800) 444-7275. he called “Port of Good Hope.” Diving and Fishing—Russian Gulch’s rocky Those who built Mendocino’s Victorian ledges attract abalone divers. The well- buildings found their fortunes in the protected dive site at Van Damme has magnificent stands of coast redwoods. In shallow areas and offers beginners gradual 1854 Jerome B.
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