HINDMARCH’S NEW INVESTOR/2 BEDAT EXITING GUCCI?/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 18, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Sterling Quality NEW YORK — Simply radiant. That sums up the look at Ralph Lauren, where the designer sent out a lineup that was the epitome of refi ned understatement, with perfectly rendered styles that swirled, shimmered and shone. Case in point: this subtle stunner, a beaded chemise dress worn over a classic tank. For more, see pages 4 to 11.

San Francisco Treat: Bloomingdale’s Lands Flagship on Union Sq. By David Moin ig-city downtown department Bstores aren’t being built that often anymore — unless you’re Bloomingdale’s and aim to be daring. On Sept. 28, the retailer will open its second-largest store, a five-floor, 330,000-square-foot unit in the Westfield San Francisco Centre on Market and Fifth Streets that is seen generating about $75 million in first-year sales and costing about $60 million to build. “This is a true flagship store,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive officer of Bloomingdale’s. “More than any other store, we tried See Bloomingdale’s, Page 24 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Hindmarch to Build U.S. Presence LONDON — British accessories designer Anya Anya Hindmarch has a new partner, and now she’s eyeing WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear America in a big way. Hindmarch’s Hindmarch will reveal today that Kelso Place Carker bag. Asset Management, a London private equity man- NEW YORK COLLECTIONS ager that also owns the British stationery and Donna Karan balanced urban fi nesse and exotic fl air while Ralph Lauren leather goods brand Smythson, has taken a minor- 4 offered refi ned, smart sportswear as the season drew to a close. ity stake in the accessories company. While nei- ther the amount of Kelso’s investment nor the size GENERAL of its stake were revealed, the investment values Bloomingdale’s will open its second-largest store, a 330,000-square- Hindmarch at about 20 million pounds, or $37.7 mil- 1 foot unit in the Westfi eld San Francisco Centre, on Sept. 28. lion at current exchange. The designer said she plans to use the funds to Retailers are leaving New York with some distinct impressions: dresses step up her expansion program in the U.S. with a 11 are hot, subtle details are in and layering has some lasting power. string of freestanding stores. The company current- ACCESSORIES: Minaudières, clutches, envelope bags and other small ly has 28 stores worldwide, mainly in the Far East. purses made a runway return after several seasons ruled by big bags. Hindmarch has four stores in the U.S. — one each 12 in Los Angeles and at the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey, and two in New York, on East 60th Street and EYE on Greene Street. Booming music fi lled the massive party space on the top fl oor of the She said her immediate plan was to open a larger 3 rebuilt 7 World Trade Center, and Francisco Costa felt the building shake. fl agship on Madison Avenue in New York and one on Sloane Street here. Additional stores will follow Classifi ed Advertisements...... 26-27 worldwide, although Hindmarch stressed she also wants to build her wholesale distribution. She is sold To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. at such stores as Saks Fifth Avenue and Scoop in the [email protected], using the individual’s name. U.S., Colette in Paris and on the online designer bou- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- tique Net-a-porter.com. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “This new investment will allow us to increase VOLUME 192, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- our pace of growth whilst maintaining the values for ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, which the brand is synonymous,” Hindmarch said in Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers a statement. Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; The designer started her handbag company in David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior her apartment here in 1991 and opened her fi rst Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance freestanding store a year later. She quickly became Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. known for her quirky yet clean designs, hitting it 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable big initially with her minibag and then expanding Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS into other shapes, agendas and other CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR leather goods. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four Her collection covers handbags, travel accessories, agendas, some weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other luggage, footwear and a small line of resort apparel, including knit- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. wear, dresses, caftans and skirts. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, As a result of the investment, two new non-execu- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To tive directors will join the board of Hindmarch: John subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Drinkwater, a former director at Goldman Sachs who our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would cofounded Kelso Place in 2000, and Sian Westerman, a interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. managing director at Rothschild. There will be no other WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- management changes at the company. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- “Anya Hindmarch is one of the most sought-after ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED An Anya Hindmarch brands in the luxury goods market, and Anya and her credit card case. team have great plans for the long-term development of the business,” Drinkwater said in a statement. MONDAY: London Fashion Week (through Friday). Platform 2, New York (through Wednesday). Texworld, Paris (through Thursday). Asia’s Fashion Jewelry & Accessories Fair, Hong Kong (through Thursday). Bedat Might Be Eyeing Exit From Gucci Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair (through Saturday). By Miles Socha & Co. spokeswoman declined to is one of the smaller and less comment. visible companies in the lux- TUESDAY: Fashion Coterie and Clear, New York PARIS — Gucci Group could be Meanwhile, a Gucci Group ury group’s stable, which also (through Thursday). faced with the exit of Christian spokeswoman said: “We never includes Yves Saint Laurent, Apparel Sourcing Expo Asia, Shanghai (through Bedat, a key figure in its watch comment on rumors or issues Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Wednesday). division, WWD has learned. related to our people.” Boucheron and Alexander Première Vision, Le Cuir à Paris, Mod’Amont, Expofi l According to sources, the Bedat and his mother, McQueen. and Paris Indigo Mode, Paris (through Friday). dynamo behind Geneva-based Simone, one of the founders To be sure, there has been The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Bedat & Co., who also recently of Raymond Weil, introduced some recent upheaval in Gucci Price Index for August. designed timepieces for Gucci their brand in 1996. The col- Group’s watch division. and Boucheron, has differences lection earned quick acclaim Over the summer, a reorgani- WEDNESDAY: Inditex reports second-quarter sales and with the conglomerate over the for its creative and elegant zation put managerial control of earnings. development of the firm that high-end watches. the Gucci brand watch business bears his name and where he Its model No. 3 — a ton- under Gucci brand ceo Mark THURSDAY: WWD Branding Leadership Forum, New and his company fi t within its neau-shaped women’s style with Lee. At the time, the company Yo r k . management structure. straps of grosgrain or metal said it also was mulling over a Nike reports fi rst-quarter sales and earnings. It is understood talks are on- — was a breakthrough, particu- new organizational structure Rite Aid Corp. reports second-quarter sales and

going between the two parties, larly in the U.S., a key market for its Boucheron and Bedat & COMING THIS WEEK earnings. but the sources suggested Bedat for the brand. Co. brands. could resign as chief executive Bedat sold an 85 percent In light of the changes, SATURDAY: Milan Fashion Week (through Sept. 30). offi cer and creative director of stake in his fi rm to Gucci Group Gucci Group Watches Division Bedat & Co. in 2000 at the height of the lux- ceo Jacques-Philippe Auriol Reached late Friday, a Bedat ury acquisition spree. Today, it decided to leave the company when his contract expires at the end of the year, Gucci said. In Brief Until then, he will help with 100% Financing the ongoing transitional and for organizational changes at the ● DONEGER ADDITION: The Doneger Group, a merchandising company. consultant and trend-forecasting company, has expanded its Purchase Orders “The changes will ensure services by acquiring Here & There, a provider of fashion in- that all of our luxury time- formation and trend publications. Here & There offi ces in New Target all size customers pieces businesses will continue York and Los Angeles will merge into the respective Doneger’s Start-ups okay their success and achieve their offi ces. Kai Chow, creative director, will continue to lead the full potential for development Here & There team at Doneger. “During the past several years, led directly by each brand,” it has been our strategic objective to further develop our color CALL US TODAY Gucci Group president and ceo and trend-forecast business in order to provide clients world- Ashford Finance Robert Polet said at the time in wide with the most in-depth fashion, trend and business analy- a statement. sis, all supported by customized client consultations,” said (888) 532-9036 — With contributions from Abbey Doneger, president of The Doneger Group. Amanda Kaiser WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 3 WWD.COM

Naomi Foner with her daughter Maggie Liev Schreiber with Naomi Watts Gyllenhaal in Calvin Klein Collection. in Calvin Klein Collection.

Natalia Vodianova in Calvin Klein Collection with Francisco Costa. ▼ Drew Lindsay Barrymore Lohan in in Calvin Calvin Klein Klein Collection. The Last Dance Collection. NEW YORK — “You can actually feel the building shaking,” said Francisco Costa of the loud music that fi lled the massive party space on the top fl oor of the rebuilt 7 World Trade Center. It was an apt observation, given that the party, held by Calvin Klein Thursday night, offered a real jolt of energy. Marina The booze fl owed, the celebrities all showed up (sans handlers!) and Rust when DJs the MisShapes threw on Justin Timberlake’s “SexyBack” with around midnight, the entire guest list headed for the dance fl oor. Tor y “I’m actually going to do a cameo in Cameron Diaz’s new movie,” Burch. boasted a miniskirted Lindsay Lohan, who had just fl own in from London and hit the party without boyfriend Harry Morton. “It’s a secret. You’re the fi rst to know.” Then she began to do a little jig. Nearby, the week’s most ubiquitous presence, Mischa Barton, was sitting on a banquette, trying to escape the circling photographers. “Ugh! Go away!” she barked. Despite the stress of constant paparazzi attention, she was enjoying her fashion week. “It’s so much fun. It’s designers I really like and have a relationship with,” Barton said, before doing a bit of corporate endorsement. “I came to support Keds, which did a show with Nanette Lepore. I’m really happy about that.” Hostesses Maggie Gyllenhaal, Natalia Vodianova and Drew Barrymore did multiple hugging sessions with Costa. “I am just enjoying being at a Calvin party, considering I was once a young, awkward girl with fashion posters on my wall,” said Barrymore. On a nearby armchair, Naomi Watts was busy hugging her main squeeze, Liev Schreiber. In between smooches, she goofed around with a bowler hat, even trying it on Costa. Of course, the day’s partying had started much, much earlier, with afternoon champagne at Rockefeller Center and more music from the Jennifer Creel MisShapes as Tory Burch presented her spring line. While her sons took and Renée DJing lessons and photographed the models with their camera phones, Rockefeller socials such as Brooke de Ocampo, in New York on business with Phillips de Pury, Jennifer Creel, Renée Rockefeller, Jamee Gregory Jamee Gregory in and Lauren duPont, stopped by to say hi and take a twirl on the TRB by Tory Burch. rooftop garden with a stunning view of St. Bartholomew’s Church. Chris Burch was also on hand to lend support to his wife, despite their current split. “I think it looks beautiful. Tory did a great job,” said Burch. Later, Zac Posen celebrated his fashion show with a party, hosted by Amy Sacco, in a tented disco dome at the Soho Grand Hotel. “They’re about to turn on the balls,” exclaimed the excited designer. “I’m going to dance all night.” He knows how to draw a loyal following, too. Posen posse members Margherita Missoni, Theodora and Alexandra Richards, Arden Wohl, Gretchen Mol and Mary-Kate Olsen all showed to support their friend. But don’t dare ask any of these folks if they were Posen show neophytes. “I’ve been to Brooke de four,” pointed out an insulted Camilla Al Fayed. “I’m a legend!” Ocampo

Mary-Kate Olsen

Camilla Al Fayed Irina Lazareanu at Zac Posen with and Margherita the Soho Grand. Arden Wohl. Missoni CALVIN AND TORY PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; ZAC POSEN BY KRISTEN SOMODY STEVE EICHNER; ZAC POSEN BY PHOTOS BY AND TORY PARTY CALVIN 4 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 Rustle and Flow With a touch of the exotic and a dose of elegance, some of fashion’s major designers closed fashion week with smart, understated sportswear and graceful, fl owing evening numbers.

Ralph Lauren

NEW YORK

Ralph Lauren WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 5 WWD.COM

Donna Karan: In the past, Donna Karan’s wanderlust has taken her to some pretty far-out places, but at their best, her armchair travels never really leave New York. Such was the case at Karan’s terrifi c show Friday when East met West in the most gentle way. Even with thick clouds of incense wafting down the runway, Karan struck just the right balance between urban fi nesse and exotic fl air. Her look was Donna Karan artsy without the affect, as she homed in on languid draped dresses cut in an earthy palette of sandy brown, dove gray and black. In a season full of pretty dresses, she managed to give hers true personality, and a stark confi dence worlds away from the fussy girlishness found elsewhere. Karan’s take on the season’s pumped-up volume meant graceful silk tent dresses and billowing caftans, some hand-dyed in tribal prints. And while suits have been few and far between in New York, her linen blazers, paired with short skirts, made a sound case for tailoring, while never straying from the subtle globe-trotting mood.

Zac Posen: It’s time for a reality check. The hype that’s swirled around Zac Posen since he appeared on the scene fi ve years ago seems to have obscured some basic Donna Karan questions about his direction. On Thursday, two such questions sprang to mind, once the Diddy-fueled hoopla died down: For whom is Posen designing? And, is his complicated vision just too ambitious at this point? While any girl with a nice pair of legs — and Posen seems to know Zac Posen legions of them — will make a splash in one of his short fringed dresses, as a whole, the collection was overdone and too often not well executed. Where the silhouettes were good, hard-shining satin and heavy-duty jacquard took the look cheap. Those diffi cult fabrics should be banished from Posen’s runway once and for all. Ditto the designer-y kitsch, whether intentional or otherwise, such as gargantuan bows and stiff-as-wood ballgowns. Posen has been out of design school for some time. He must resolve the refi nement issue if he is to move beyond the “young designer” handle.

Zac Posen

Ralph Lauren: The question was posed more than once during the New York shows: Where is all that smart sportswear that once formed the core of American fashion? On Friday morning, it made a big comeback courtesy of a beautiful Ralph Lauren collection that radiated refined understatement. Lauren opened with the simplest of looks, a black polo and wide trousers, no-nonsense, yet set off with a panama hat that could be read as debonair or playful. He continued with sporty clothes in a spectator mood, black and white, occasionally in concert. These came utterly breezy in loose bibbed shirts over shorts, or more tailored with some of the week’s few traditional suit sightings. Of course, the downside of such an approach is that it can seem a tad quiet, so Lauren mixed in moments of exotica — a kimono arranged just so over jaunty layers, a few too- graphic geometric patterns. But these felt a bit forced and out of place among an otherwise ultra-savvy lineup. There was nothing forced about evening, when the perfectly rendered offerings were diverse as an elegant black chiffon shirtwaist gown and a surprisingly quirky frock, seemingly crafted from two swirling white linen tablecloths. As for the elaborate embroideries and shimmering lamés that worked that delicate cusp between silver and palest gold, each was a subtle stunner. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 Cool Days Doo.Ri Spring collections played up sexy-sporty pieces and refi ned dresses — in all, smart and sassy.

L.A.M.B. ▼

▲ Chado Ralph Rucci ▲

Chado Ralph Rucci: Ralph Rucci showed more exquisite dresses than ever before: short, flared numbers in jersey with pintucked insets; a silk dress edged in caramel gazar. And his casual side came through for the first time in the knockout dress in white NEW wool crepe that resembled a classic cable knit. The designer also showed his fall-winter couture collection, in which the demonstrative furs were YORK the standouts. But a python coat and a porcupine jacket? Ouch.

Rebecca Taylor WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Joanna Mastroianni

Doo.Ri: With her sensational spring show, the fi nishing touches, there were playful Doo-Ri Chung showed that she’s more weekenders as well as terrifi c wedges more from than just a one-trick jersey wonder. Yes, and sandals. With such savvy offerings, there were plenty of those flowy pieces Burch is well on her way to building an to be had, but Chung tempered her important lifestyle brand. romantic notions with some chic tailoring the shows that showed up in a terrific safari jacket L.A.M.B.: Michelle Pfeiffer in “Scarface”- and tight, sexy pants. Conversely, she meets-Jamaican rude boy, spun together Joanna Mastroianni: Dramatic gowns, continued spring’s push into volume with with assorted global inspirations. That a Joanna Mastroianni signature, were big dresses and tops that deflated just a was the idea behind Gwen Stefani’s paired with larger-than-life wraps, but bit for wearability’s sake. Throughout, L.A.M.B. collection, designed in it was her sleeker looks — especially she embellished discreetly with waist- collaboration with the designer Zaldy. the jersey bare-backed beauty — that cinching belts and crystal sprinkles that It actually translated into a delightful scored. heightened the allure of her polished romp, one fi lled with very real, mix-and- lineup. match clothes appropriate to pop star Gregory Parkinson: Though Gregory and girl-next-door alike. The range was Parkinson’s spring collection veered Rebecca Taylor: With twin daughters on broad, from red, white and blue tennis toward the offbeat with intense color the way, it’s no surprise that Rebecca looks to over-the-top cheetah-print suits and fabric combinations, it was Taylor was feeling extra girly for spring. to standout sultry wrap dresses. Along the nonetheless right for uptown girls Looking to the Seventies, she showed way, Stefani gave plenty of play to her new looking for something quirky yet chic. Marimekko-inspired printed frocks and handbag collection that features a range organza blouses paired with short tulip of frame bags and clutches that look like Threeasfour: In their most polished skirts à la Mia Farrow in “Rosemary’s sure crowd-pleasers. effort to date, Adi, Ange and Gabi Baby.” Though repetitive, it made an refi ned their particular brand of circular appealing motif, and the fl oral dresses Vivienne Tam: How many ways can one cutting with an excellent collection of and a lace raincoat were standouts. pull off a shift? At Vivienne Tam, let us fl uid jersey tops and dresses. count the ways: embroidered with raffia Tory Burch: Tory Burch continues to crochet, gussied up with a floral trim Sandoval: Though Michael Carbaugh refi ne her take on smart, optimistic or macramé insets. Tam’s presentation played with many of the season’s dressing. Her collection for spring started charmingly enough — with themes — volume, boxy proportions featured three motifs: an earthy African fantastic summer linens in gold and — he did so with a dark, edgy-chic theme, a breezy blue-and-white Turkish neutrals with a hint of the East in textured sensibility that gave a nod to the section and simple black and white. The patterns and appliqués. But then the wave Belgians and Eighties punk star separates looked unfailingly snappy, while of uninspiring citrus-colored dresses hit, Siouxsie Sioux. the dresses offered a crisp alternative to and it was obvious that a pretty frock or all the girlier, fl uffed fare out there. As for two does not make a whole collection. Manuel: While the women’s looks lacked the polish of the men’s, Manuel Cuevas showed his deft tailoring skills Gregory in a group of good- Parkinson looking jackets. One of the highlights: a snazzy cropped version in metallic leather.

Jason Wu: His lackluster day looks aside, Jason Wu showed a pretty lineup of cocktail and evening numbers in tailored satin and layered tulle — sure to make some red- carpet appearances. OBERT MITRA OBERT

Sandoval

Tory Burch Vivienne Tam Threesafour PHOTOS BY PAVEL ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND R GIOVANNI GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, CENTENO, TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PAVEL PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006

moremore fromfrom Iisli thethe showsshows NEW YORK Grey Ant

Phi: Inspired by Deborah Turbeville’s dreamscape photographs, among other things, Andreas Melbostad sent out a collection of frothy, layered boudoir looks, many of which were delicately pleated, ruched or smocked.

Iisli: In a muted earth-tone palette, Nelson and Sisi Li showed a supersimple collection of linen and cotton pieces with sublime touches of shimmer. Afshin Afshin Feiz: To the R&B sounds of a live performance by N’Dea Davenport of the Brand New Feiz Heavies, Afshin Feiz’s spring models strutted in well-tailored suits and ultrafeminine dresses in muted tones worthy of the polo grounds.

Grey Ant: The Divine Ms. M, circa 1976, inspired the very cool and wearable high- waisted jeans and slinky bodysuits that Angeleno Grant Krajecki sent out between dance breaks from the aptly named Hysterica Dance Team.

Erin Fetherston: Oh so pretty was Erin Fetherston’s New York debut, where she delivered a number of sweetly enchanting fl oral dresses — and a few nicely tailored looks to boot.

Jay McCarroll: “Project Runway” alum — and winner — Jay McCarroll’s fi rst solo collection was a lively blast of Sixties Mod-inspired color and graphics on playfully bold pieces.

Nathan Jenden: DVF creative director Nathan Jenden continued to develop his own vision for his eponymous line with nice tailored numbers and dramatic, voluminous frocks, all with a slight “Heart of Darkness” undercurrent that speaks to the adventuress in every girl.

Custo Barcelona: The Sixties met the Eighties at Custo Barcelona with a color explosion of geometric prints piled on top of each other and often worn over logo jeans — a combination that was too much.

Lisa Thon: Puerto Rican designer Lisa Thon channeled some of that Latin island savoir faire into breezy dresses in a dusty palette of rose, peach and cream, throwing in a splash of hot red here and there.

Jeremy Scott: It’s the right season for Jeremy Scott’s easy T-shirt dresses and sexy swimwear, but Phi whether anyone wants to wear them in a gun-toting teddy bear print remains to be seen.

Erin Fetherston Nathan Jenden

Jay McCarroll WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Accessories designers remind us that there’s more to fashion week than clothes, as they put their marks on The A Team the season with great lineups of bags, jewelry and shoes. Be & D: Be & D’s artistic endeavors for spring at the National Arts Club.

▲ Nike: Classic streetwear gets arty with help from photographer Ryan McGinley and the artist known as Shoplifter at Nike.

▲ Bill Blass: The old favorite launches a new collection of shoes, which includes a standout group of metallic sandals.

▼ Giuseppe Zanotti: Stitches, not jewels, provide drama for Zanotti’s latest collection.

Tiffany & Co.: Models meant to be paper dolls display Tiffany’s Blue Book Collection baubles.

▲ Kara Ross: Jewelry designer Kara Ross ventures into exotic handbags with semiprecious-stone details.

Lambertson Accessories Truex: There’s a Council: Inside batch of brown the tents, beauties here Pono’s jewelry for spring. shines.

▲ Kate Spade: Hand-painted replicas of soldiers’ bags from WWII are winners at Kate Spade.

Laura Bennett Michael Uli Herzner Knight Project in the Park

Kelly Clarkson aside, there are no guarantees of long-lasting fame and success for reality TV stars. And when it comes to “Project Runway,” the next Nicolas Ghesquière probably won’t emerge on the Bravo show. Nevertheless, its off-the-chart ratings gives its designers a jump-start to stardom that other aspirants can only dream about. To wit, the four finalists from this season’s show — Uli Herzner, Michael Knight, Jeffrey Sebelia and Laura Bennett — showed in the tents on Friday morning, followed by first-season winner Jay McCarroll later that afternoon. The circus atmosphere didn’t differ greatly from that of any other Jeffrey tent event, save for the slightly corny speeches each contestant gave Sebelia before their models took to the runway. As for the clothes, their ef- forts were impressive and cohesive. Sebelia worked a deconstructed, glamorous punk look, using a clever zipper motif to strong effect. After being criticized by judges in past episodes for designing overly matron- ly dresses, Bennett freshened up her elegant little black dresses, se- quined cocktail dresses and gowns, resulting in the most commercially viable collection of the four. Herzner vacillated between a restrained nude-and-silver combination and pretty, brightly-colored animal- and fl oral-print dresses. And while Knight appears to be the fan favorite, his work was the least impressive. The Versace-like collection was fi lled with electric satins, gold hardware, garishly sexy little dresses and swimsuits worthy of Kimora Lee. The verdict is still out on just who will take home the “Project Runway” crown this season, as the fi nale doesn’t air until October 18. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, PAVEL ANTONOV, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PAVEL JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY MITRA GIANNONI. THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MONICA FEUDI, GIOVANNI 10 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM

RUNWAY REFUGEES?: Now that Spanish fashion show organizers have banned too-skinny models from the runways at Madrid’s fashion week, which starts today, is London planning to follow suit? No way. London Fashion Week also begins today, but there are no limits on runway models’ body mass index. Fashion Scoops “The British Fashion Council does not interfere with in the aesthetic of any designer’s show,” a BFC spokeswoman said on Sunday. But it appears not everyone in London would agree with the BFC. At the Topshop Unique show on Sunday afternoon, an off-schedule event, Kate Moss was spotted sitting next to Topshop owner Philip Green in the front row. When one STAR POWER: Thigh-high boots were the order particularly bony model trotted down the runway — hipbones protruding — Moss leaned of the day for starlets Diane Kruger and Joy over and apparently whispered, “She’s too thin,” to Green. A Moss spokesman could not be Bryant at the Ralph Lauren show on Friday reached for comment at press time. The British press is rife with speculation that London morning. Both actresses donned over-the- Fashion Week, which runs through Friday, will be fl ooded with models fl eeing Madrid’s fashion knee boots from the designer’s fall collection week, Pasarela Cibeles, but that remains to be seen. Madrid’s regional government came for their front-row photo ops. Kruger opted down hard last week on runway walkers who, at roughly 5 feet 7 inches, weigh less than 123 to inject her head-to-toe RL look with some pounds. Anyone skinnier won’t be allowed to strut. The measure is seen as a way to “project a Parisian chic by topping off her cashmere healthy international image” for Spanish fashion, a government spokeswoman said. leggings and cape with a black beret and some Veronica Lake-style tresses. “I love the hat,” said Kruger, who had spent the last WAY OUT WEST: Designer James Galanos joined members of the Costume Council of the Los week in Toronto promoting her fi lm “Copying Angeles County Museum of Art in feting “Breaking the Mode: Contemporary Fashion From the Beethoven” with Ed Harris. “I play a fi ctional Permanent Collection,” a new exhibition at the museum that examines the work of more than character,” said the actress. She was off to 40 rule-breaking designers from the past 25 years. The soiree, held in the museum’s open-air Paris next, where Karl Lagerfeld is due to shoot courtyard, followed a preview of the exhibition, which features gravity-defying pieces from Issey her today for a Chanel eyewear campaign. Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, Thierry Mugler and Vivienne Westwood, among others, and examines the Bryant, fresh from the airport and Thursday construction techniques of Martin Margiela in a step-by-step display. night’s premiere of the movie “Bobby” in “It’s fantastic what they’ve done,” said Galanos, decked out in an Armani velvet tux jacket in Toronto, was weary from her travels. “I got up an allover black-and-white print. “I think the Japanese are fantastic. The clothes aren’t wearable, at four and wore this on the plane,” she said but they’re inspiring!” The designer, whose circa-1989 two-piece bodysuit dress is displayed in the of her cashmere dress and crocodile belt. “All exhibition, will launch his fi rst ever art exhibition “James Galanos: Photographs” on Thursday at the these people were crying during the movie,” Serge Sorokko Gallery in San Francisco. The collection of still life images will run through Oct. 21. said Bryant, who spent her summer vacation in Chile. PARTY DRESSES: To fete his collection of girly frocks, Douglas Hannant gathered his gang for Kevin Costner; his wife, Christine cocktails at Chelsea club The Pink Elephant Wednesday night, followed by dinner at downtown Baumgartner, and daughters, Annie and Lily, den Crobar. Guests including Becca Thrash, Valesca Guerrand-Hermès, Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos, along with Lauren Bacall, also attended, while Gillian Hearst-Shaw and Eva Lorenzotti arrived to the lavish seated affair, where communal Princeton grad Lauren Bush, who was seated tables were set with small topiary trees and a chandelier hung from the ceiling. From there, the next to David Lauren, said she’s now living in celebrating moved on as a number of partygoers trekked over to the Soho Grand Hotel, where New York and job-hunting. She wasn’t handing Hilary Swank was relaxing after a screening of her new fi lm “The Black Dahlia.” Diane Kruger out résumés, though. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY MORE HONORS: Bobbi Brown, Denise Rich, Jamie Tisch, Cynthia Rowley, Bergdorf Goodman’s Jim Gold, Linda Ellis and Christina Greeven Cuomo are just a few of those expected tonight to toast LAST CALL: Was Chado Ralph Rucci’s Friday-night runway presentation the last-ever fashion show Glamour editor in chief Cindi Leive, who’s being honored at the home of Elie Tahari by the to be held at Bryant Park? It appears to be the case — at least where the Bryant Park Corp. is UJA-Federation of New York. “I’m hugely fl attered,” said Leive. “ I’m not a terribly religiously concerned. According to a report in the New York Post on Saturday, the organization already observant person and I grew up in about the most un-Jewish of small suburbs in Virginia, but one has committed to an ice rink at the park through March 1, meaning that the space will not be of the misconceptions is that they only support Jewish-themed causes. It’s regardless of religious available for the tents in February. affi liation. I visited a domestic violence shelter in Manhattan and it’s just a tremendously An industry source indicated that IMG, which owns 7th on Sixth, was not aware of the important place for women. I was really moved.” commitment to the rink until Friday, and many expect IMG’s senior executives to take the issue to Mayor Bloomberg, who has been a vocal supporter of the fashion industry and has shown an CALVIN IN THE CLUB: Calvin Klein is expected to make a rare understanding of its economic importance to the city. appearance Thursday night at the opening of Equinox Fitness’ Diane von Furstenberg, incoming president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, new SoHo club. He, his friend Blaine Trump and Equinox honcho already has taken the matter to the mayor. Sources said on Friday that Vogue editor in chief Anna Harvey Spevak will host the festivities, which will include Wintour also has written a letter to him to keep the shows in place at Bryant Park. “Celestial Bodies,” an exhibition featuring photographs of If the matter isn’t resolved, Olympus Fashion Week, which is said to have a new title Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot, Sean Connery, sponsor next season, will be forced to fi nd a new home in February. Lincoln Center has been Marilyn Monroe and other celebrities from Getty Images. In mentioned as a potential venue, though it would offer less space than the current tents in addition to checking out the Charles Scheips-curated show, Bryant Park. guests can bid on some photos in a silent auction that will An IMG spokesman said Sunday, “If the impression given to the New York Post by Dan benefi t God’s Love We Deliver. The MAC AIDS Fund’s matching Biederman of [Bryant Park Corp.] is true, then apparently fashion week is being evicted from donation won’t be the only other fashion tie-in: Marc Bouwer and Bryant Park. As the producers of the event, we have worked in good faith with the BPRC and the Francisco Costa are on the benefi t committee. City of New York to fi nd a viable solution with the assurance that no defi nitive decision would be made until another location was identifi ed and all parties, the designer community included, GIANT GEMS: Unveiling 42 new spectacular high jewelry were satisfi ed. creations at Paris’ Biennale des Antiquires last week, Cartier “Fashion week in Bryant Park serves the designer community as well the media and fashion proved baubles can sell as well as Baroque. Cartier International industries, and we think it is unfortunate that their desires in this matter have yet to be truly president Bernard Fornas said the antiques fair has become one recognized or heard. We remain optimistic that reason will prevail and that the mayor and the of the premier jewelry selling events and that the Paris house had Brigitte Bardot as she appears city will hear the collective voice of the design, media and retail communities and revisit this invited scores of clients. “Some six or seven pieces are already on the Equinox invitation. decision, if it is, in fact, fi nal.” accounted for,” he said. With prices starting at $200,000 and stretching to more than $5 million, it’s understandable Fornas predicts high jewelry will continue WORKING GIRL: Don’t look for Lindsay Lohan to design a signature collection, but she does plan its boom of the last couple of years. “We have people fi ghting over pieces,” he bragged. to open a store. During an appearance at the Petrou store opening Thursday, the actress said vintage clothes, including scores of freebies that designers have given her, will line the racks. VUITTON MARX THE SPOT: Karl Marx, the father of scientifi c socialism, might well be turning in She also will ask other celebrities to donate some of their graft, with some of the proceeds his grave. The bearded thinker’s passion for travel and the cultures of the world is the subject earmarked for the charity of their choice. “I want to teach people not to be too greedy. They can of the latest tome to be released by Louis Vuitton as part of its “Voyager Avec…” (in English, resell it back for charity.” “Travel With…”) series. Titled “Karl Marx, Le Christophe Colomb du Capital” (“Karl Marx, the Lohan, who has been speaking with investors, would not disclose the store’s location, but Christopher Columbus of Capital”) and written by Jean-Jacques Marie, the book will be released said it should bow next year, “probably in the spring. This is something I have wanted to do for a Nov. 23 in Belgium, Switzerland and France, priced at a proletariat-friendly price: around $30. while. It’s nice to get the word out,” she said. The 20-year-old picked up some potential pieces for her store at Petrou. Trying on a black THE STORY OF O: Van Cleef & Arpels unveiled a smattering of the vintage baubles it will auction jacket, she said: “I like this one because it’s reversible. I don’t like wearing the same thing off at Christie’s in New York on Oct. 11 — including an incredible diamond and ruby brooch in twice.” However, she had to briefl y duck out of her mother Dina’s birthday dinner to get to Petrou. the house’s trademark mysterious setting — at a cocktail party in Paris Friday evening. Stanislas (That dinner apparently didn’t go so well. The New York Post reported that mother and daughter de Quercize, Van Cleef’s international president and chief executive, spirited potential buyers had a spat that left both of them in tears.) around the exhibition, which next moves to Los Angeles and Chicago before landing in New York. As for any prospect of stamping her name on a sportswear collection, she said: “I’ve never While the discreet de Quercize remained mum about the provenance of many of the jewels, he been one for that. Clara Bow, Ava Gardner and Meryl Streep never did. Karl [Lagerfeld] told me not let slip that a mouthwatering ruby and diamond ring and necklace set belonged to Jacqueline to. I ask Karl everything. I have good advisers.” Kennedy. It will fi gure in the second installation of the exceptional sale — in Geneva on Nov. 16 As for reports Lohan is getting married to Harry Morton, she said: “No, but I’m really happy — which is meant to mark Van Cleef’s centenary. with my boyfriend.” AMANDA AND ASTON, TOGETHER: Ford Motors might be considering selling Aston Martin, but READY FOR FLORAL: Actress Sarah Michelle Gellar made it out on a rainy Friday to attend Rebecca it’s getting a design injection in the meantime. London designer Amanda Wakeley and the Taylor’s show at Bumble & bumble. She said she loved all the fl orals on the runway that British sports car company have teamed up to create a small capsule collection of clothing and reminded her of sunnier days, but liked a lace raincoat the best. “I may have to tackle the model accessories set to launch next year. Amanda Wakeley for Aston Martin will target a high-end so I can wear it home today,” she said. female customer with such items as leather outerwear and weekend luggage. The collection will be sold through Wakeley’s Web site and via select stockists worldwide. SMASHBOX, QUIXOTE CLICK: Smashbox and Quixote, Los Angeles’ two largest photo studios, are “We both share similar values in the quality of our materials and in our craftsmanship,” Aston merging their 10 studios in Santa Monica and Hollywood under the new Smashbox Studios Martin chairman and chief executive Ulrich Bez said. Wakeley, known for her fl uid, feminine banner. Combining assets will allow Smashbox founders Dean and Davis Factor to focus on their designs, said she was excited to be working with “an iconic British brand with such global cosmetics business and will allow Quixote principals Mikel Elliott and Jordan Kitaen to devote more recognition.” Wakeley also will act as an ambassador for Aston Martin, which increasingly is attention to their photography clients. The new company will roll out a photo-driven ad campaign targeting a female audience. The two partners are planning trunk shows and a series of events this fall. involving both of their brands. Will James Bond attend? WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 11 WWD.COM Buyers: At Last, Newness From New York fter more than a week of traipsing to shows — the last two days slogging through Michael Kors is a very important part of our business. He did a lot of neutrals and Athe rain — retailers are leaving Manhattan with several distinct impressions. some gray and camel. I’ve been carrying Michael’s clothes for nine years. There’s no The first is that you can’t keep a good dress down — they show no sign of retreating tricks, just great American sportswear. Proenza Schouler made a strong statement come spring. Even minidresses in trapeze and baby-doll forms had such charm that and Thakoon is worthy of buyers from all over the world paying attention. Narciso retailers actually endorsed the youthful trend. Second, buyers and fashion directors Rodriguez was gorgeous. I always love the dresses at Narciso.” saw that less ornamentation may be just the right amount as subtle details such as seaming and boning provided plenty of visual interest. And layering, which some Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director, Macy’s East stores approached for fall with trepidation, “is more wearable for spring,” observed Overall impressions: “The designers defi ned a new aesthetic. It’s all about seduction, Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom. “Now it’s closer which is a big difference from sexiness. There’s a new grace, a focus on the dress, to the body in lighter, diaphanous fabrics.” new volumes, proportions and concepts like fusion — the jacket over soft dressing.” All in all, retailers gave the New York shows a fi rm thumbs-up because they had On trends: “[There’s lots] for us to capitalize on, like voluminous blouses, tunics, that one elusive quality that entices consumers to spend: newness. minidresses, short trapeze jackets with cropped sleeves, short shorts and dresses.” — Compiled by Sharon Edelson Standouts: “The art of craft and amazing workmanship in Vera Wang and Calvin Klein, and a poetic mood at Marc Jacobs. That and Marc by Marc Jacobs were Ken Downing, fashion director, Neiman Marcus, Dallas the number-one collections.” She also liked “the spirited Anna Sui and her Overall impressions: “It is absolutely the season of the dress. Trapeze pirate glam; dresses at Vivienne Tam and Betsey Johnson; Michael Kors’ shapes, Empire and lovely shirtwaist dresses, and the addition of the modernity and incredible colors; Oscar de la Renta’s elegant, wearable fl at shoe are making the dress look new and bringing a whole new and feminine collection; Ralph Lauren for being refi ned and true to silhouette.” his roots, and Twinkle’s individual and charming look.” On trends: Matched suits. “The idea of a jacket matched with a skirt or pants looks incredibly young and new. There are so many trends Evelyn Gorman, owner, Mix, Houston the customer will want to put in her wardrobe.” Overall impressions: “Fabulous. I’ve seen some very good work.” Standouts: “Marc Jacobs was just magical. Even if you don’t care Standouts: “This was Thakoon’s best collection ever, it’s full of for what he does, you’ll love it a year later because everyone NEW life. I liked the colors, coral pinks and great whites. I especially else is doing it. We loved the colors, pearl gray and tattered laces like his fi t, it’s so true to size. He doesn’t go too young but doesn’t and organdies. Oscar de la Renta has a way of interpreting the go really lady, either. I saw Rachel Roy for the fi rst time and it was American sensibility. His fl at shoes and clear handbags brought YORK a great surprise. Nilly Lotan was a big standout. I had so much fun freshness to the entire show. His dresses…stood out. We loved writing the collection, I bought every piece. She had some blousey Proenza Schouler. The bandage skirts with an air of the Eighties and dresses that can also be worn over pants and she did great drawstring charcoal shift were great looking. Peter Som had a standout collection. We liked Diane von Furstenberg’s take on the Garden of Eden, and Rodarte, which played with soft fl oral rosettes, looked very couture.”

Michael Fink, vice president, women’s fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue Overall impressions: “I think New York presented an OK week, still focusing in on the volume story and very romantic clothes. New York is really struggling with what’s next.” On trends: “New York has cornered the market on eyelet. There were interesting moments, such as the trend toward romantic fabric and interesting shoulder treatments like puffs, lanterns and kimono sleeves. The dress trend will continue through Europe, though I hope it’s less romantic and more sexy in a precise and modern way.” Standouts: Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Derek Lam, Peter Som, Marc Jacobs.

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom, Seattle Overall impressions: “The week had a lot of really beautiful collections our customers will embrace. It was an evolution of what we’d seen for GEORGE CHINSEE; MITRA; JACOBS BY ROBERT PHOTO BY DE LA RENTA fall. The dress continues to be predominant and important. There were a CENTENO TALAYA THOMAS IANNACCONE; VON FURSTENBERG BY BY KORS lot of different shapes that looked fresh, including the trapeze. Many the minidresses show the body in a nice, tasteful way.” On trends: “The new ways T-shirts are being reworked, such as with knotting details, is a great, easy way to dress. For evening, we liked the Grecian trend with draping and column dresses. Patchwork has been fun to see both on apparel and accessories. It looks new. Then there’s the more understated color palette contrasting with navy, black, citrines and royals.” Standouts: “Oscar de la Renta’s dresses and the Himalayan blues with red. Diane von Michael Oscar de la Marc Marc Jacobs’ layering and the beautiful mixtures of ecru with metallics. Furstenberg Kors Renta Jacobs Ralph Lauren also had an ivory palette mixed with metallics. Zac Posen’s minidresses were really sexy and still ladylike. Peter Som’s proportions felt right-on. Phillip Lim’s fabrics made a statement.”

Stefani Greenfi eld, co-owner, Scoop, New York shorts and wonderful prints. Jeremy Lang, who I’ve carried from the beginning, had Overall impressions: “Spring really seems like a continuation of fall with scaled- a turning-point. We’re selling his current season very well. His dresses and use of down fullness with ease and comfort. The color palettes were great and I was happy color and geometric shapes are so much fun. He’s an up-and-comer.” to see so many dresses. When it’s a good dress season, it makes things so much easier for the buyer. There are also some great new fl ats this season, which gives the Ann Watson, vice president, fashion director at Henri Bendel customer another reason to buy, which is always good.” Overall impressions: “I was pleased to see voluminous looks continue into spring. Standouts: “Marc Jacobs was my favorite show of the week. It was just beautiful, With our store being very girly, young, fl irty and spirited, it’s important that volume the colors were light and, overall, it just put me in a good mood. I loved the T-shirts, stays for another season. Shorter lengths are important to us.” dresses, full pants, and the skin bags were just outstanding. I also loved Matthew On trends: “We plan to make a statement with cropped leggings. Fine-gauge knits Williamson’s pleated shorts and his bright colors. DKNY, Diane von Furstenberg and will also be featured this spring.” She also cited styles in jersey or chiffon, and Marc by Marc Jacobs had great dresses in neutral colors.” layered looks. Short trenchcoats with volume, shorts, metallic or patent leather- accented bags and wide belts were other winners. She liked the clean, fresh palette Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion offi ce and store presentation, of white with grays and the bright accents, and expects silver to come on strong. Bergdorf Goodman Standouts: “I liked how Michael Kors paired Empire-waisted dresses with cardigans.” Overall impressions: “The New York shows delivered enough news and evolution to She also praised Anna Sui, Matthew Williamson and Diane von Furstenberg. stimulate the got-to-have-it-now urges. There was just the right amount of carryover from fall as not to confuse the customer, since fall already gave us dramatic trends.” Barbara Atkin, fashion director, Holt Renfrew, Toronto On trends: “The overriding trend is in larger, soft volume, layering and contrasting On trends: For spring, Holt Renfrew will focus on the relaxed jacket, oversized proportions. Complex folding, pinching and pleating nod to couture infl uences. Soft, shirts or tunics, smock blouses and dresses and easy summer coats. Atkin also layered jersey draping…translates well to all markets. Femininity came though the use expects dresses to continue to be strong, as well as shorts and skinny pants. of chiffon, brocades and eyelets. Dresses were one of the dominant categories. We may Standouts: Marc Jacobs was “the number-one standout, without a doubt. He continues be heading toward a transition into more body-conscious dressing, as seen at Calvin to raise the bar.” Holt Renfrew, which already carries Marc by Marc, will pick up Marc Klein and Proenza Schouler. When the time is right, this will be a welcome shift.” Jacobs’ collection for the fi rst time. “Vera Wang was magnifi cent. I couldn’t put my Standouts: “It was exciting to see another level of polish and confi dence from still- pen down.” Proenza Schouler earned points for tight skirts [and] other Eighties items young designers like Peter Som, Derek Lam, Proenza Schouler and Zac Posen. inspired by Azzedine Alaïa and Hervé Léger. Atkin loved Oscar de la Renta’s “beautifully Rodarte bears a special mention. They once again gave us beautiful dresses to articulated clothes,” in particular, bubble-shaped cocktail dresses and skirts and poppy dream by. prints. Atkin also liked Narciso Rodriguez, Tibi, Phillip Lim and Zero Maria Cornejo.

Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner, Jeffrey New York and Atlanta Laura Eisman, owner, Girlshop Overall impressions: “A great week. New York has an energy that can’t be matched.” Standouts: The dresses at Costello Tagliapietra; Yigal Azrouël’s “beautiful, On trends: “Were there bubble skirts that I liked? Absolutely. Do I want a store full elegant drapey pieces” with a lot of volume toward the bottom; Charlotte Ronson’s of only volume? No. I’ve always loved fl at shoes, but they look better than ever.” “adorable bloomer shorts and pockets everywhere. Overall, I love slim bottoms with Standouts: “All the designers delivered. Oscar de la Renta was as beautiful as he’s volume on top and I am happy to see that shorts are really back, in a great new way. ever been, if not more beautiful, down to the accessories. My mind is very in sync I love that so many designers were inspired by the Eighties, but there were a lot of with what he’s doing. It was a wonderful fantasy and chock-full of things for my things in the Eighties that were just plain bad. The ones that did it right this time clients. Marc Jacobs was beautiful, from the clothes to the shoes to the accessories. did a great job, but others were way too literal.” 12 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 Marc Jacobs

Accessories Report Anna Sui Size Matters for Spring

By Jennifer Hirshlag Derek Lam NEW YORK — Sometimes bigger isn’t necessarily better. Designers unveiling their accessories looks on the runway and in other presentations during fashion week were asking their customers to try on something new for size. Minaudières, clutches, envelope silhouettes and all manner of smaller purses made a comeback after several seasons of being overshadowed by hobos with gigantic proportions. Although fashion- industry executives said it isn’t quite time to send the big bag packing, they agreed that the shows marked a change in direction: Evolution has shaken up the standing handbag hierarchy and broadened the range of options in the lucrative category. “It’s been a while since I’ve seen small bags,” said Valerie Steele, director of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology here. “When I was working on my book in 2000 about handbags, there were already lots of big handbags. They were like mother ships. It’s an interesting comment on the daily life of women in today’s culture. People seem to be living out of their bags like suitcases. With what we saw on the runways…I don’t think it’s a signal that we’re seeing the end of big bags. It’s more about offering another choice for a handbag wardrobe.” Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel, said the big bag in some form is an essential part of a woman’s lifestyle. “But designers are playing with proportions this season and accessories are a huge part of that,” she added. “We have already seen that the clutch is becoming more important for us at retail and, based on what we saw coming down the runways this week, I think it will be very important going forward.”

Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs, said that, to better com- GIANNONI; JACOBS AND GIOVANNI LAM AND POSEN PHOTOS BY ERICKSEN; MISCHKA AND KYLE GEORGE CHINSEE; SUI BY BCBG BY JOHN AQUINO BY MITRA; DE LA RENTA ROBERT BY MARC BY MARC plement the brand’s spring ready-to-wear, Marc Jacobs showcased smaller bags, including a quilted silhouette that models carried in Badgley one hand during the runway presentation on Monday night, letting Mischka the chain-link strap dangle below. “Last season we showed clothes that were layered and had a lot of volume,’’ Duffy said. “The oversized bags made sense with that look. Now it’s progressed. The proportion of clothes has changed. The clothes still have volume, but that volume is much closer to the body. And the fabrics are more fragile and lighter in feel. The smaller bag works better with that look.” Derek Lam, which showed its second season of handbags on the runway, included spacious and petite styles, from a roomy doctor’s bag that had structure but was still soft and pliable in deerskin leather to a fl at patent leather bag meant to be tucked under the shoulder. “For spring, you don’t want to look encumbered by huge acces- sories,” said designer Derek Lam. “You want to emphasize a sort of lightness and softness.” Lam added that women who don’t live in a city don’t always need a huge carryall, and that having a range of sizes gives them more options. “Everyone loves the big bag, but it’s very much an urban phenom- Zac Posen enon,” he said. “Outside of the city, you’re jumping in and out of a car.” Marc by Sandra Wilson, accessories fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said women Marc will look to the smaller bag to hold their essentials. Jacobs “Handbags are going to continue strongly for spring,” Wilson predicted. “The clutch is important, as is the smaller shoulder handbag that is slimmer and more classic in shape. The oversized tote will still continue to be important, but it may act as a carryall for the smaller bags.” Ikram Goldman, owner of the specialty store Ikram in Chicago, said she started Oscar offering smaller bags to customers last year from vendors such as Devi Kroell and de la Lambertson Truex. Renta “I’ll continue forward with that,” she said. “That said, I still believe there’s a need for a bigger bag. It’s about the day in the life of a working woman. There are so many elements and things that a working woman needs to carry and will con- tinue to need to carry with them. But I think it’s about providing a range for women to choose from, even though that range may be shifting toward a smaller bag.” Steve Dumain, designer and co-founder with Be Inthavong of handbag brand Be&D, which built its business in 2004 on the success of its huge Crawford hobo accented with an oversized buckle on its wide strap, said they are doing a lot more smaller bags for spring. Key looks previewed at a party this month include patent leather clutches in bright hues such as lime and fuchsia. “I think for those women who carried bigger bags to make a fashion statement, they will choose to go back to smaller bags,” Dumain said. “But there are a lot of women who are not going to let go of their stuff. Once you grow accustomed to car- rying your life around with you, you are not going to want to let go of it.” Dumain added that retailers who have seen the collection for spring have re- acted by ordering a wider range of styles. “They are no longer just sticking with one stockkeeping unit,” he said. John Truex, co-creative director with Richard Lambertson of handbag brand Lambertson Truex, which showed its spring looks at a party held in the company’s showroom during fashion week, said the bigger bags on offer still have a lot of volume. “They just don’t look as huge because they are designed to conform with the BCBG body,” Truex said. Max Pointing to the many minaudières and clutches in exotic skins such as karung, Azria crocodile and ostrich on display, he added: “Maybe it’s time for women to liberate themselves from all their stuff.” WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 13 WWD.COM

Lambertson Truex Michael Kors Marc Jacobs

Derek Retailers’ Top Picks Lam TROVATA PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA; LAMBERTSON BY PAVEL ANTONOV; LAM BY GIOVANNI GIOVANNI LAM BY ANTONOV; PAVEL BY MITRA; LAMBERTSON ROBERT PHOTO BY TROVATA GEORGE CHINSEE THOMAS IANNACCONE; JACOBS BY BY GIANNONI; KORS etailers are Rheaded to Europe next week, but they have already highlighted some of their favorite new bags for the coming spring from New York designers. Here, a look at a few key choices.

Ed Burstell, Trovata senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories at Bergdorf Goodman: “I thought the patchwork looks at Marc Jacobs looked terrific, as well as his bejeweled shoppers, which were absolutely my favorite. I also thought Derek Lam had great totes and shoppers. Other favorites were Michael Kors’ soft east-west tote and Camilla Staerk’s oversized, unstructured, across-the-body hobo.”

Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director at Henri Bendel: “I really like the look of canvas with patent leather, like on the bags at Trovata. I also loved Michael Kors’ barrel bags. Nancy Gonzalez did some great bags for adam+eve.”

Sandra Wilson, accessories fashion director for Neiman Marcus: “Some of my favorite looks included Marc Jacobs’ cream shoulder bag and the designs at Derek Lam and Michael Kors.”

Ikram Goldman, owner of Ikram in Chicago: “I loved those unbelievable basket-weave handbags at Lambertson Truex.”

Beth Buccini, co-owner with Sarah Easley of Kirna Zabête in New York: “We thought the bags at Derek Lam looked amazing this season. They were chic and effortless, just like the collection. Matthew Williamson also had a few fun clutches in a Mexican market fabric with neon plexi handles that were perfect for summer. Off the runway, Be&D looked great. This season they have supersaturated rich leathers in green, blue and dark brown that are so supple and luxurious. We are also in love with Celestina bags, which are little carved jewel boxes in the most interesting materials and colors.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Financial M&A Flurry Expected to Continue

By WWD Staff number of global M&A deals announced and/or closed during the first nine ones Apparel Group’s recent decision months of the year was running about Jto scrap plans to put itself up for sale 30 percent higher than in the same pe- might make some think the mergers and riod last year in the consumer products, acquisitions frenzy of the past two years retail and apparel sectors. The bulk of is winding down. Well, think again. the transactions involved private equity Financial sources say private equity funds such as Leonard Green & Partners fi rms are continuing to build their war and Green Equity Investor, which bought chests, now estimated at $160 billion, up Tourneau Inc. for $300 million. The $797 from about $120 billion last year. The num- million sale of House of Fraser plc to the ber of M&A deals — fi nancial and strategic Bank of Scotland was announced earlier — announced has soared on a year-to-date this month. But there are some important basis, and several bankers predict M&A strategic plays, too, including the sale of activity in 2006 will surpass that of 2005. 85 German Wal-Mart Stores to Metro AG Some of the developments of the past for an undisclosed sum. few weeks include: William Susman, president and chief ● Rite Aid Corp. recently inked a operating offi cer of Financo, said he could deal to acquire Eckerd and Brooks drug see strategic buyers coming back into the chains for $3.4 billion. market. “They are extremely cash rich ● Courrèges is said to be in play, al- and have been doing share repurchase though potential buyers have not been identifi ed. Earlier this month, Rite Aid ● Foot Locker is slowly moving to- signed a deal to buy Eckerd. PHOTOS BY MICHAEL BROWN/GETTYPHOTOS BY IMAGES ward a deal, according to sources, who say talks are centering on a fi rmer share price. ● Oak Hill Partners and Leonard You’ll see some ebb and fl ow, but there is no Green & Partners continue to inch closer “ in their pursuit of David’s Bridal. fundamental reason why [the rate of M&A deals] ● In the media world, Vivendi agreed earlier this month to pay $2.1 billion would change. to Bertelsmann for its BMG Music ” — Marc Cooper, Peter J. Solomon Publishing Group. ● Last week, Vornado said it was ac- quiring 190 Toys ‘R’ Us stores for $190 million. to work. The underlying demand, reason- good financing markets and investors Gilbert Harrison, chairman of Financo, able interest rates and the debt markets to who reward acquisition strategies. There said, “We believe [M&A activity] is going fi nance the deals are still all favorable.” are quality “assets for sale, intrinsic mar- to continue for quite some time. We’re Cooper, who said private equity fi rms ket growth and no economic demons on very optimistic that the consolidation pat- were still raising money to do deals, the immediate horizon,” he said. tern is one of necessity, and one that in foresees that some strategic players may Michael Stanley, executive vice this rapidly changing marketplace will be enter the M&A market again if a good op- president of factoring fi rm Rosenthal & very good. There’s $160 billion of private portunity comes along. Rosenthal, said he expected foreign in- equity funds that have not been utilized.” “In all markets, there are only a few vestors, especially from China, to step Harrison said there were a “number of really good growth opportunities to up interest in American and European extremely good companies between $50 make a difference to some of the corpo- brands. “China has the manufacturing, million to $2 billion in the retail, apparel rate acquirers, such as a VF Corp. or a and they have the money,” he said, “but and consumer goods sector” that might be Liz Claiborne, that will help them grow,” they don’t have the brands, so I think you candidates for an acquisition, plus many Cooper said. “Many of the big acquirers will see more activity involving brands smaller, independent fi rms doing “$100 mil- have already fi lled their basic portfolios. over the next few months.” lion to $300 million in sales that will be un- programs,” Susman said. “No company It’s not like Jones Apparel Group needs Wasik said 2006 has become a banner able to continue on their own, and who will wants to do it because it is almost an ad- to buy another Kasper or Anne Klein. year for branded goods. “However, unlike need a bigger company in which to grow.” mission of reduced growth. The share re- Would they be interested in the next previous economic cycles, this cycle has A confi dential survey of fi nancial, fac- purchase program is done in the absence Juicy Couture? You bet, so they are al- not seen all ships rise,” Wasik explained. toring, market and retail sources by WWD of a good acquisition possibility.” ways going to be active.” “For example, in retailing, we have seen revealed that the short-term expectation Marc Cooper, managing director at Kenneth Wasik, managing director of the premium department stores trading is for the pace of M&A transactions to Peter J. Solomon, observed, “I don’t see the consumer products group at Houlihan extensively. Certain specialty retail has maintain current levels. Of those polled, any reason for any dramatic slowdown [in Lokey Howard & Zukin, said he expected been the focus of many buyers. Up until 34 percent said they expect M&A activ- M&As]. You’ll see some ebb and fl ow, but 2006 to be “an equally robust M&A mar- recently, the restaurant sector saw heavy ity to increase in the next six months and there is no fundamental reason why [the ket and will probably surpass 2005.” M&A activity. In the consumer space, per- 45 percent expect it to stay the same; 62 rate of M&A deals] would change. The “The various metrics we use to sense sonal care has really been the story, with percent said M&A activity had increased driving force is the tremendous amount of the healthiness of the M&A market are many companies trading hands in 2006. in the past year. money, the liquidity particularly from the still very strong,” Wasik said, adding that I would expect that trend to continue According to data from Capital IQ, the private equity funds, which need to be put the metrics include motivated buyers, strongly into the future.” Iconix Repositions London Fog for Growth

By Vicki M. Young the opportunity resurfaced one week er of Barry Kay, said initial distribution before the August bankruptcy court likely will be Macy’s, Nordstrom and conix Brand Group Inc. has big plans auction, following a phone call from Dillard’s. The goal for London Fog out- Ifor its new baby, London Fog. Herman Kay co-president Barry Kay. erwear is for a wholesale sales volume Iconix closed on its acquisition of the Although their agreement was ham- of $27 million to $30 million in the fi rst London Fog brand last month, paying mered out in just four days, they still year. While Herman Kay is just starting $30.5 million in cash and $7 million in had to wait on pins and needles while to focus on the product line, Richard Iconix stock to buy the brand in a bank- the court auction proceeded. Kay said the 2007 launch would feature Barry Kay, Neil Cole and Richard Kay. ruptcy court-sponsored auction. Iconix “London Fog is a great addition to a full product range of trenchcoats and already has inked licensing deals with our portfolio because of what London outerwear in leather and wool for men ments with other partners for women’s outerwear maker Herman Kay Bromley, Fog represents. It balances our portfo- and women. sportswear and men’s suits. for London Fog-brand women’s and lio,” Cole said. He added that the brand But the major challenge, acknowl- Iconix hopes to close shortly on its men’s outerwear and women’s suits in would be department-store driven. edged Cole, is repositioning London acquisition of Mossimo. It also plans the U.S., and with Amerex (USA) Inc., Outerwear will hit the sales fl oor during Fog as a lifestyle brand, an initiative another deal this year. Cole declined to for London Fog’s children’s outerwear fall 2007, and women’s suits in 2008. The that he says could take place over fi ve provide details, but said he had his eye in the U.S. company plans a major advertising cam- years. “We are studying the successes on a “particular company.” Barry Kay Neil Cole, chairman and chief ex- paign for next fall. “We could be doing of Coach, Burberry and the heritages said that Herman Kay was also involved ecutive offi cer of Iconix, said in an in- some interesting things with models and of those brands. It will take time, too, to in negotiations for the acquisition of a terview that the company looked at the trenchcoats,” Cole hinted. develop a great sportswear line.” men’s outerwear fi rm, but declined to brand six months ago and passed, but Richard Kay, co-president and broth- Cole plans to sign licensing agree- identify the seller. Consistent.

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ATLANTA BALTIMORE BOSTON CHARLOTTE CHICAGO CLEVELAND DETROIT LOS ANGELES NEW YORK HONG KONG LONDON MONTREAL TORONTO WARSAW 16 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006

Financial Factors: Hurdles Ahead, but Consumers May Surprise By Liza Casabona mitigate all the issues investors presentation earlier this month ly same-store sales results. are concerned about, especially a revealed strong wage growth as Department stores catering to slowing housing market, a slowing housing market. well as moderating gas prices. high-end consumers consistently A higher interest rate environ- “Ultimately, I think a lot of While investors remain wary of outperformed expectations dur- ment and higher fuel costs will these negative factors could start a slowdown in the housing mar- ing the past few months. likely soften consumer spending to slow the season. We’re guard- ket, Citigroup’s chief U.S. equity Recent same-store sales fi g- in the fourth quarter, but some edly concerned about the bal- strategist and senior economist, ures also show a slow start to the factoring and financial sources ance of the year,” said Michael Tobias Levkovich and Steven back-to-school season this year, are not fully convinced apparel Stanley, executive vice president, Weiting, noted in a conference but some factors note they may sales will suffer as a result. Rosenthal & Rosenthal. call that consumers would contin- have started to rebound in recent From the vantage point of pro- Consumers are also exhibit- ue to shop. Weiting said the high- weeks, which could affect the viding accounts receivable ser- ing malaise stemming from atti- end consumer, who obviously has outlook for the holiday season. vices to vendors who sell to retail- tudes regarding the government, more disposable income, would “Back-to-school started off ers, factors said they see potential war abroad, how the government buoy spending levels. slower than retailers anticipated. hiccups in the short term, but the dealt with Hurricane Katrina and “If we looked at the compo- As the weather cooled slightly, I economic picture is not as gloomy other political issues in an elec- nents of activity in recent years think back-to-school picked up as some media sources report. tion year, Stanley noted. that have been the most strong, and has been somewhat stronger “You have so many things that Still, while big-ticket items, it’s been high-wealth, high-in- the last couple of weeks,” Heller are working at cross currents such as appliances, which are said. going into the fourth quarter,” inextricably linked to the hous- “There are some pockets of said Stanley Offi cina, president, ing market, might suffer, apparel The market in general is forging ahead [the market] doing great, par- Ultimate Financial Solutions is a different kind of purchase. “ ticularly in the junior-teenage LLC. “There’s a certain amount “The market in general is forging with little impact from oil prices and segments. We’re going to see of fear attached to the economy, ahead with little impact from oil uncertainty in the real estate market. some issues relating to the broad and the price of gas and oil is cer- prices and uncertainty in the real spectrum of retailers. I don’t tainly going to have an impact.” estate market. I don’t think the ” think it’s going to be a disaster, But he pointed out that the im- fourth quarter will feel the effects — Gary Wassner, Hilldun Corp. but I certainly don’t think we’re pact on spending thus far has not of any of these issues. Clothing is going to beat last year’s results,” been too great and recent fi nan- still a small-ticket item relative stable,” said Gary Wassner, presi- come individuals who have Stanley said. cial fi gures show that gas prices to these bigger issues, and I think dent of Hilldun Corp. powered spending, you can see The last two years, holiday may have already peaked, and that people need the satisfaction Data tracked by Citigroup and it in the performance of certain spending in the fourth quarter may start to return to more mod- and comfort of buying things for released in its U.S. Consumer retailers and you can see it in beat expectations. Following erate levels. However, that can’t themselves when times are un- Update and Market Outlook services outlays,” said Weiting. strong holiday growth, factors cau- The factoring fi rms said they tioned that a slowdown this year saw the same trends in the luxu- was likely, but that it would just ry market. “We’ve gotten used to, bring spending to a more moder- in the luxury market, the weak ate level. Still, this could be cause dollar and extraordinarily high for concern for some companies. prices of European products. Yet “I think there will be a decent sales increase each season. Just holiday season. I don’t think that look at LVMH’s numbers in this if people are looking for signifi - country despite the weak dollar,” cant double-digit sales increases Wassner pointed out. or same-store sales increases “Some of the companies we they are going to see that. But I factor have really taken off nice- think they will see some same- ly on the high-end side….If you store sales increases for the have got the right product you’re holiday season,” predicted always going to be going against Heller. “I wouldn’t jump up and the tide,” Offi cina said. down and say it’s going to be the Meanwhile, discount retailers, best Christmas ever, but unless whose customer base is sensitive there’s something that I’m un- to higher fuel costs, are having a aware of, I think business will be more diffi cult time, said Marc J. OK. Retailers and suppliers have Heller, executive vice president, reasonably good controls on their northeast regional manager of inventory levels.” CIT Commercial Services. Other sources agreed, noting This dichotomy between any positive gains would be re- luxury retail and discount retail tailer-specifi c instead of across has been playing out in month- the board. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 17 WWD.COM Rassin’s Artistic Foray Into Fashion By Vicki M. Young tiles. Working with Duggal will enable might be priced around $300, while a silk Rassin to go from “concept to creation pareu might be more than $900. AMERICAN ARTIST LAURANCE RASSIN within a week to 10 days,” bypassing the Rassin is working on a project with is broadening his repertoire. lead times needed to source fabrics, get- lingerie designer Deborah Marquit for Rassin, whose works evoke a remem- ting prints dyed, as well as the require- an upcoming art and lingerie show that brance of Picasso and Matisse, is expand- ment of producing larger quantities to be will be held at Rassin’s Chelsea gallery ing into fashion with some help from cost effective. and showroom on Oct. 5, at 514 West Duggal Visual Solutions. According to Baldev Duggal, the labels 25th Street. After that, the two hope to The artist’s works, which also refl ect for works will indicate that the product work together on swimwear. Rassin and his fi lm background, are vivid contrasts is exclusively made in New York, and Duggal are researching the saturation of of light and color. that local craftspeople will be employed. color on spandex for the proposed swim- Rassin plans to pick a select group Duggal has facilities in Manhattan and wear line. of works and have the originals printed Brooklyn. Owners of Rassin’s artwork include onto textiles for use on apparel products So far, Rassin has produced a small Richard Kay, co-president of Herman such as scarves and other accessories, collection of scarves, headbands and Kay Bromley; David Redden, vice presi- pareus and swimwear. He is relying on pareus. He’s targeting the well-heeled dent at Sotheby’s, and Michael Stanley, Duggal’s expertise in imaging to ensure women who frequent Barneys New York executive vice president at factoring fi rm the correct color transfer onto the tex- and Bergdorf Goodman. A small silk scarf Rosenthal & Rosenthal. A look from Rassin’s collection. Evolution Surf Widens Reach With Beauty Line By Amy S. Choi xtending a surf brand into a Ehigh-end, natural skin care line might sound like an impossi- ble task. But for Clark and Kelise Riedel, proprietors of Evolution Surf, it has been a seven-year journey that has paid off. “It is a full lifestyle brand,” says lifelong surfer Clark, who started the company in 1999 to make luxury, handmade surf- boards. “It allows consumers to experience surfi ng even if they are not surfers.” One might argue that most surfers can’t afford a $2,000 surf- board — some of Evolution’s surfboards are tagged up to $50,000 — or a $150 eye cream, but key ingredients such as kelp, coconut, mango and bamboo evoke the ocean and help carry the brand’s surf message. In fact, says Clark, his surfboards are far more of a media vehicle than a product he sells for profi t. Most of the boards being hand-paint- ed and hand-glassed, more like pieces of art than money-making sports equipment. With such high-end products, however, it was easy to jump into another luxury business, one which is much more profi t- able. What was originally a $1.5 million investment in the skin care line, designed by Kelise, is currently a $7 million invest- ment in facial and eye creams, washes, and spa therapy sprays. The products, sold at retail for the fi rst time in 2005 at Saks Fifth Avenue, rang $2 million in sales. This past spring, the couple inked an exclusive deal with Barneys New York to sell the line, and they expect to double their sales to $4 million. The line is available in six Barneys stores, including the retailer’s newest fl agship in NorthPark Center in Dallas, and will bow in Barneys’ Las Vegas and San Francisco stores in 2007. “If you want to do products as part of a surf line, you have to go right to the top of the market or people won’t take you seriously,” said Clark. The couple plans to build on its skin care line with sunscreen, serums and lip balms. Eventually, says Kelise, hair care and color cosmetics will be on the com- pany roster. 18 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006

Financial Service, Product Differentiation Key to Success

By Vicki M. Young number-one complaint is long best known for the Tobe Report. waits at the checkout line. Next is Holliday Banks noted, “It re- INDUSTRY CONSOLIDATION nonresponsive sales help.” ally does start and end with the often raises concerns over prod- Participants in the panel in- customer. The consumer is more uct sameness and limited shop- cluded Coach Inc.’s Jody Kuss, demanding than ever before. ping choices, yet many firms senior vice president of mer- She is clearly in control.” manage to thrive through vary- chandising worldwide, and David Holliday Banks said there is ing retail cycles. Duplantis, senior vice president tremendous fragmentation in the During a panel discussion of retail, Internet and catalogue; marketplace. As a result, Tobe’s called “Meeting Customer Talbots Inc.’s Michele Mandell, trend research service empha- Needs,” hosted and moderated by executive vice president of stores; sizes to its clients that customer Emanuel Weintraub of his epon- Andrew Jennings, former presi- loyalty must be earned and that ymous consulting firm, he ob- dent and chief operating offi cer the successful retailers are those served: “This period of consolida- of Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises, that “deliver what they promise,” tion goes to the story of sameness and Lori Holliday Banks, fashion whether that’s service, product, of buying issue, and which stores editor at Tobe, an international selection or value. consumers will frequent. Their fashion retail consulting service So how do companies in re- tail and apparel stay uppermost in the minds of their customers? Clockwise from left: Emanuel Weintraub, Andrew Jennings, Jody Kuss, David At Coach Inc., the 65-year-old Duplantis, Michele Mandell and Lori Holliday Banks. handbag and accessories fi rm, listening to the customer is key. a store-service initiative that in- “distinctive and memorable.” “We like to think about usage cludes requiring customers to be Jennings, who will leave Saks point in our business. Because greeted with a smile when they at the end of the month and join we’re a handbag and accessories enter the stores, an introduction Cape Town-based Woolworths fi rm, we think about our customer by the store associate and per- as group managing director in in multiple ways. We have a very haps a lifestyle question so the December, discussed how to nav- broad consumer base. To cap- associate can better service the igate the dual pull of consumers ture her and know her, we are a customer. Handwritten thank- who shop for the greater price very consumer-centric organiza- you notes are sent to customers and the convenient format and tion. We live and breathe by our spending more than $250. those who shop for the total expe- market research, by our piloting Coach also makes sure that rience and unique fi nds. “We are and by our consumer feedback. its best sales associates are in looking at creating memorable A great percentage of what we do the stores at peak selling times. moments. At Saks, our aim is to we really vet through our market “It sounds very simple but it was transform our stores into exciting research. We are lucky we can not necessarily the case before. destinations. We want to break do that because we are a vertical It meant fi nding out the peak away from the pack. We call it a operation and we are close to our traffi c times and the peak vol- category of one,” he said. customers,” Kuss said. ume times,” Duplantis said. Jennings said all the good Case in point is the evolution Talbots’ Mandell said that, purveyors of style have a special of Coach’s Hamptons Weekend while the heart of the business vibe, or energy, in their stores collection, with the aim to be may be product, the retailer’s that provide the consumers with youthful in spirit, but not neces- soul is on service. “We remind a sense of discovery, as they sarily in age. The initial test of each other that if the heart of move through the store building the totes in the stores included our brand is fi ne-quality, clas- their wardrobes, while creating questions to customers regard- sic fashion, then the soul of our a great shopping experience. ing function, strap length and brand is really our commitment “Today’s customer no longer weight of the tote, as well as in- to outstanding customer ser- shops head-to-toe, wearing ei- ternal pockets and opening price vice,” she said. ther Armani, Prada or Dolce & point. Now, three years later, vol- Store management teams fi le Gabbana. It is the Chanel jacket ume is 12 times the tote’s initial weekly comments that are sent with the Theory pant, with the introduction. to regional offi ces and corporate private label T-shirt. It is all about “We try to give consumers ex- headquarters listing what cus- personal style,” Jennings said. actly what they need and really tomers say about product, ser- According to Jennings, Saks try to be ahead of them. A lot of vice and the competition. From spent 12 months developing and the things we do also is to ab- that come the ideas for changes researching three new customer solutely listen to our customer, to product or store design, or profi les to better target its mer- and be in a position to dictate even a new service. chandising and marketing: the some things such as showing the “We do a seasonal shopping classic “Park Avenue” customer, customer what is the must-have panel with our customers ask- the modern “Uptown” consumer product,” Kuss said. ing how to do things better and and the contemporary “SoHo” “Our service objective is to what they’re changing in their customer. be as well known for service as wardrobes. This year we asked “We’ve learned that, in order we are for the product. We want about our advertising campaigns, to be successful, it is not about to create a magical moment for [such as] did we convey what we keeping up with our customers, the customer, one that engages thought was important,” Mandell it is about keeping ahead of the her in a way to make her more said. She added that the compa- customer. It is not about predict- comfortable to trust us and come ny makes sure its interactions ing where customers are going, back,” Duplantis said. with the customer are person- but identifying where they want Last year the company began alized to ensure that service is to be,” Jennings said. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 19 WWD.COM Retail REITs Lag Behind Other Sectors By Amy S. Choi and weighed on the mall stocks, and rich pricing in the $5 billion it plans to invest in redevelopment by 2010. That acquisitions market dampens external growth via spread investment, combined with a 3 percent to 4 percent prop- ore than 15 percent growth in returns seems in- investment,” wrote Goldman Sachs analyst Jonathan erty income growth and a strong balance sheet, should Mcredibly positive for retail real estate investment Haberman in a midyear report. Still, “mall fundamen- garner 8 percent to 10 percent earnings growth annually, trusts — until you look at retail compared with residen- tals should remain strong over the coming year. We favor if the retail environment stays consistent. tial, offi ce or even self-storage stocks. those who create value via redevelopment over those If they could pick just one retail stock, several analysts According to the National Real Estate Investment who acquire.” agreed the Goliath of mall REITs would be the wisest buy. Trusts’ Equity REIT Index, as of mid-September, re- But given the current economic climate, it may be diffi - “The regional mall industry is consolidating into the tail REITs provide year-to-date returns of 15.4 percent, cult for retail REITs to go down the traditional growth ave- hands of a few public REITs. These consolidators strong- while residential REITs popped 37.5 percent and offi ce nues. “Concerns about the health of the U.S. consumer will ly benefi t from their scale, access to capital and strong REITs grew nearly 30 percent. impact the real estate owners’ ability to lease space and ex- tenant relationships,” Jeffrey Donnelly, senior analyst How the mall REITs will ensure growth remains a pand and develop centers,” said David AuBuchon, an A.G. with Wachovia Securities, wrote in a research note. question. With ground-up new development and acquisi- Edwards analyst. “There’s been an overhang in retail so far The next-largest mall REIT, General Growth, has tions slowing, internal growth by way of redevelopment, this year and the group in general has underperformed.” more volatile earnings due to the unpredictability of its leasing and rent increases is more critical than ever in Of the retail REITs he covers, said AuBuchon, Simon master-planned development division and that business’ securing earnings growth. Property Group appears to have the most positive forward ties to the cooling housing market. It also carries more “Signs of a weakening consumer have hurt sentiment movement and growth potential, much of it driven by the debt, including variable-rate debt, than Simon. Foot Locker Sale Lacks Progress, Shares Fall 4.1% NEW YORK — Shares of Foot Locker Inc. tumbled Friday on fears a deal to sell the company might not be reached. But one banker familiar with the process said talks are still ongoing. The stock closed down 4.1 percent to $22.72 with trading volume at 4.5 million, which is well above its average volume of 2.1 million. According to several traders, some investors were worried a deal might not happen while others likely lost patience wait- ing for an announcement. But financial sources said Apollo Management, which long has been interested in Foot Locker, remains a front-runner. Spokesmen for Foot Locker and Apollo each declined comment. Financial sources said the Apollo team eyeing Foot Locker is headed by West Coast-based se- nior partner Peter Copses, whose specialty is retail buyouts. The private equity fi rm is believed to have submitted a bid in the per- share range of $28. Apollo also is believed to be working with Kravis, Kohlberg & Roberts. KKR representatives, sources said, were visiting Foot Locker’s offi c- es last month. Foot Locker is be- lieved to be seeking $30 a share. Following company confir- mation of Foot Locker hiring Evercore last month, several other private equity fi rms sup- posedly considered the oppor- tunity. The Blackstone Group and New Mountain Capital were mentioned as possible bidders. A source at Blackstone said the fi rm is no longer pursuing Foot Locker. As for New Mountain, headed by former Forstmann Little senior partner Steven Klinsky, industry sources discuss- ing mergers and acquisitions at the MAGIC trade show for the ap- parel sector last month said not many investors or apparel and footwear executives thought the private equity fi rm was a serious St. Eve is known for pajamas that are fun, comfortable, and affordable. contender. CIT is known for providing factoring and financing solutions Other fi nancial sources con- that help businesses rest easy. No wonder we’re such a perfect fit. nected with footwear and ap- ® parel, but not investment bank- To learn more, call (800) 248-3240. We see what you see. ers, added that they believe there had been a second bid, © 2004 CIT Group Inc. CIT, the CIT logo, “We see what you see” and “c it” are service marks or registered service marks of CIT Group Inc. one lower than $28, that was re- jected by Foot Locker. — V.M.Y. 20 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006

Financial The Skinny on Denim: Sales for Fall

By Jeanine Poggi Fitch Line in August to $89.90 from $148, and men’s ing between $59.99 and $79.50. basic denim was on sale for $39.50, down from $79.50. Retailers who are attempting to break into the nce as essential as notebooks and No. 2 pencils for “We believe [Abercrombie & Fitch’s] denim business is denim business or are trying to rebound their denim Okids heading back to school, denim this fall has comping negatively because of a glut of destroyed denim sales also have resorted to exten- failed to make the grade. inventory and a lack of cleaner and darker washes sive discounting. Sales of denim were down in August at many apparel and straighter leg styles,” said Kimberly Greenberger, “Gap is the poster child for retailers including Abercrombie & Fitch, Gap, Old Navy, specialty apparel retailing analyst at Citigroup Global this. Denim used to be its bread Express and Pacifi c Sunwear. The month’s results were Markets Inc., in a report. and butter, but they let it go and in line with analysts’ dismal forecast, and September is are trying to make up for it in one appearing to be equally soft for the category. season,” said Eric Beder, senior Traditionally, denim sales pick up in August and vice president at Brean Murray, soar as school resumes in September. This year, how- With simpler looks and a Carret & Co. ever, consumers are slow to adopt Even with television ads push- the skinny jean. Analysts said what de-emphasis“ on denim this fall, ing new denim arrivals and low- ails the category is a lack of differ- ered denim inventory in the sec- entiation in styles along with high we were not surprised to see a ond half of this year, Gap had to demand for “wear-now” items. extend its 25 percent off select Most analysts agree there is 5 to 10 percent decline in jeans promotion until Sept. 7 to little hope for any sort of recov- push sales. And Old Navy ran a ery in September unless major average denim pricing across promotion that cut $5 off all men’s changes are made. Most believe and women’s denim, and several retailers will be forced into drastic teen specialty and some lower styles were on sale for $25. markdowns. Already, retailers are In order to compete with dropping price points and using prices at Abercrombie & Fitch mainstream denim providers, gimmicks and promotions to attract Aéropostale, which has only been teens to the jean racks. and American Eagle Outfi tters. carrying denim items for two “With simpler looks and a de- years, is offering jeans for $24.99 emphasis on denim this fall, we — Dana Cohen, Banc of America” to $29.99, and $20 off ticket prices were not surprised to see a 5 to 10 Some specialty on select items. percent decline in average denim retailers were able to But despite murmurs from com- pricing across teen specialty and drive jean sales with petitors that the category is down- some lower prices at Abercrombie Teen specialty retailer Wet Seal is practically giving trend-right styles. trending, teen retailer American & Fitch and American Eagle denim away. Its deals for this month include $10 crop Eagle managed a stellar perfor- Outfi tters,” said Dana Cohen, se- jeans, $10 denim minis, $14.56 for fashion jeans and mance in both women’s and men’s denim, proving there nior research analyst at Banc of $20.50 for skinny jeans and fi ve-pocket jeans. Jimmy’Z, are ways to keep customers interested in the American America, in a research note. Many retailers posted Zumiez and Charlotte Russe also have cut opening pric- classic. Less price-promotional than in the past, the At Abercrombie & Fitch, the negative denim comps es for denim while the “Denim Lab” at Express is fea- company found ways to connect to its customers with in- company marked down its Ezra in August. turing select jeans for $29.99, with original prices rang- novative marketing tactics such as giving out a free AMC WWD.COM

Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE Decline Retailers 70.94 44.17 Abercrombie Abercrombie & Fitch& Fitch 16.5 96454 68.00 3.00 33.01 18.05 Aéropostale Aeropostale 18.5 65697 28.98 1.75 42.94 19.45 American American Eagle Eagle 20.0 159233 42.15 1.35 movie ticket when customers try 44.27 23.05 Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 21.5 87655 41.73 0.28 on a pair of jeans in July. 23.45 13.05 Bebe Bebe 28.3 51561 23.26 1.96 “American Eagle’s denim 1.90 0.68 BlueflyBluefly - 1171 1.00 -0.02 business continues to rock and 34.14 15.55 Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 284.0 11357 27.89 1.99 roll, having doubled its market 20.65 13.71 Caché Cache 24.9 6997 19.19 1.92 26.70 18.10 Cato Cato 14.7 9883 22.70 -0.21 share in the last fi ve years and 28.08 12.95 Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 24.3 87646 26.00 -0.99 set to move up another notch 15.18 9.69 CharmingCharming Shoppes Shoppes 18.0 72978 14.10 0.72 this year,” said Dorothy Lakner, 49.40 17.26 Chico’s Chico’s FAS FAS 18.0 193272 20.57 1.99 retail analyst at CIBC World 67.70 33.22 Children’s Children’s Place Place 22.2 44964 58.04 2.13 Markets, in a report. “Having 90 36.14 23.89 CVS CVS 21.8 273414 34.74 -0.76 percent newness in denim for 32.46 20.38 Deb Deb Shops Shops 14.8 1410 25.71 2.19 33.87 18.91 Dillard’s Dillard’s 15.3 77536 32.50 0.97 back-to-school and the right bal- 19.84 12.10 Dollar Dollar General General 14.7 250560 14.42 1.69 ance in its assortments is a key 28.09 10.75 Dress Dress Barn Barn 13.1 59306 18.87 0.80 reason why American Eagle’s 47.86 22.83 eBay eBay 33.0 846130 27.85 -0.66 denim business has performed 29.42 19.40 Family Family Dollar Dollar 23.8 128542 28.90 2.15 so well, in our view.” 42.49 28.78 Federated Federated 15.0 365912 41.99 2.41 In fact, consumers are actu- 28.00 18.74 Foot Foot Locker Locker 15.8 113622 22.72 -1.55 19.42 15.90 Gap Gap 16.5 560238 17.92 1.02 ally willing to spend a little more 9.81 6.29 GottschalksGottschalks 32.5 924 8.40 -0.21 on their favorite brand of jeans 50.01 19.61 Guess Guess 27.5 31532 47.43 2.87 if they are trend-right. According 1.24 0.25 Harold’sHarold’s Stores Stores - 74 0.40 -0.15 to a recent survey conducted by 16.30 9.43 HotHot Topic Topic 33.0 50087 10.67 0.73 Slant for the Retail Advertising 69.34 44.16 J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 14.7 160462 64.73 0.56 and Marketing Association, 41 67.95 42.78 Kohl’s Kohl’s 24.9 212969 66.85 1.76 28.48 18.81 Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.9 126019 27.04 1.24 percent of those polled typically 47.45 6.72 MothersMothers Work Work 57.0 9737 47.45 6.00 spend more than $100 on each 22.63 9.41 New New York York & &Co. Co. 17.9 21049 12.60 1.42 denim purchase, 30.9 percent 42.90 30.41 Nordstrom Nordstrom 18.5 191136 41.60 2.09 spend between $50 and $99 and 27.99 13.12 Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 10.4 115097 15.30 1.44 28.2 percent spend less than $50. 43.49 32.16 Regis Regis 15.2 48451 37.32 0.37 Mistakenly anticipating that 18.00 8.95 RetailRetail Ventures Ventures - 17610 14.90 0.51 31.04 22.12 Ross Ross Stores Stores 17.4 81980 25.96 0.99 the narrow/skinny jean would 20.76 14.10 Saks Saks 21.2 109941 15.90 0.82 drive sales heading into the fall 167.95 111.64 Sears Sears 21.1 126215 158.01 6.51 season, many retailers over- 34.44 23.68 Stage Stage Stores Stores 12.9 14071 26.83 0.48 stocked the style and missed 24.34 11.27 Stein Stein Mart Mart 16.3 15314 14.28 2.14 fashion opportunities in alter- 20.60 13.01 Syms Syms 35.7 796 19.34 0.12 native bottoms. 30.68 17.30 Talbots Talbots 19.5 41698 24.20 2.59 59.29 44.70 Target Target 18.4 311001 53.64 3.08 “This new trend driver is 28.24 19.95 TJX TJX Cos. 17.3 241288 28.06 1.12 being scantily adopted,” said 20.78 7.20 United United Retail Retail Group Group 7.4 3217 17.72 1.98 Greenberger. “It is performing 33.77 13.65 Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 23.6 323119 17.27 2.62 well in New York and along the 50.87 42.31 Wal-Mart Wal-Mart 17.6 736906 48.22 1.50 West Coast, but the middle of the 6.83 3.89 WetWet Seal Seal - 44690 5.83 0.21 country is not catching on.” 6.50 2.59 WilsonsWilsons Leather Leather - 3787 2.72 0.05 29.95 21.01 Zale Zale 24.9 19806 27.81 1.38 This is not surprising since Vendors the new style does not fl atter or 51.44 41.89 Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 22.1 51107 49.90 -0.47 fi t many consumers. “More and 33.26 24.33 Avon Avon 24.4 72543 29.54 0.09 more women realize that being 33.28 19.56 Benetton Benetton 41.9 278 33.23 3.65 fashion-right at times is ‘just 43.23 32.09 Cherokee Cherokee 16.8 3082 36.12 1.26 wrong’ for their body types,” 37.40 25.18 Coach Coach 26.0 209161 33.86 1.98 57.65 41.00 Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 15.7 11589 53.80 4.04 Beder said in a report. 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 13.6 21102 15.77 0.97 With a less broad appeal, few 41.71 29.98 Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 26.1 86167 38.81 1.70 retailers are properly incor- 23.84 14.96 Fossil Fossil 21.7 30641 20.30 0.48 porating the skinny style into 12.82 6.23 G-IIIG-III 54.1 1062 11.03 0.67 their merchandise, said Thomas 26.35 14.05 Hampshire Hampshire Group Group 9.8 219 14.11 -0.74 Filandro, retail analyst at 39.96 31.19 IFF IFF 18.2 24167 39.75 0.75 20.38 14.51 Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 24.0 3469 18.70 1.53 Susquehanna Financial Group. 36.10 26.47 Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 19.3 53617 32.61 1.56 He praised American Eagle for 34.57 21.83 Kellwood Kellwood 29.7 14137 28.29 0.96 being the only company to dem- 29.60 21.75 Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 17.4 4790 24.43 0.63 ocratically add the trend to their 41.30 33.40 Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 14.7 16005 39.13 1.31 wardrobe selections. 8.79 4.56 MossimoMossimo 55.1 173 7.69 0.06 True Religion is another 24.98 16.49 Movado Movado 19.2 8744 23.30 0.75 91.54 75.52 Nike Nike 15.4 128413 82.97 0.92 company still fi nding success in 57.58 34.34 Oxford Oxford 14.2 4827 41.96 1.29 denim. Believing the potential 24.25 8.69 PerfumaniaPerfumania 1.8 186 9.00 -0.10 for the skinny jean was limited, 30.25 18.50 Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 14.2 4968 29.50 1.37 the company opted to make it 41.83 26.75 Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 15.3 49401 41.83 2.26 only a small percentage of its 64.55 45.50 Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 19.6 34302 63.80 2.35 assortment, according to Brad 15.69 10.63 Quiksilver Quiksilver 24.0 93582 12.20 0.03 3.95 0.76 RevlonRevlon - 80241 1.43 0.08 A. Stephens, fi nancial analyst at 39.89 14.09 Steve Steve Madden Madden 22.0 12145 38.28 0.88 Morgan Keegan & Co. 3.65 0.86 TarrantTarrant 31.8 1982 1.60 -0.10 By placing too much weight on 24.36 11.11 True True Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 21.6 21988 22.14 0.10 the skinny jean and increasing 74.75 50.44 VF VF Corp. Corp. 15.3 38517 73.80 2.38 levels of denim offerings, retail- 28.22 15.75 Warnaco Warnaco 30.5 30328 20.12 -0.09 ers and vendors both agree they have missed the trend shift to nondenim bottoms and were sig- Weekly % Changes Stock Market Index nifi cantly under-inventoried in (ending Sept. 15) shorts, Stephens said in a report. “We have had four great years Gainers Close Change of denim. Everyone’s closet is Urban Outfitters 17.27 17.88 full of denim, they don’t need Composite Retailers Vendors Stein Mart 14.28 17.63 any more, especially since there 1136.38 1124.22 1170.63 are not really any new styles out Mothers Work 47.45 14.48 there,” said Greenberger. Dollar General 14.42 13.28 An increase interest in dress- es may provide retailers with an New York & Co. 12.60 12.70 opportunity to offset the decline in denim, but Greenberger said Decliners Close Change she does not see a viable re- 36.19 35.68 37.98 Harold’s Stores 0.40 -27.27 placement for the sector. “The question is, will the con- Foot Locker 22.72 -6.39 sumer start to adopt nondenim Tarrant 1.60 -5.88 items?” she said. “Retailers Index base of 1000 is keyed to Hampshire Group 14.11 -4.98 need to start bringing freshness closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. Charlotte Russe 26.00 -3.67 to alternative bottoms to see a drive in the bottom division.” 22 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM

HEDI TIMES: Be careful with those designer inspirations — at least, where seemingly Diesel Downplays Any Talks MEMO PAD avid reader Hedi Slimane is concerned. Last Thursday, New York Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn’s extensive profi le of the MisShapes trio charted the impact the DJs Geordon Nicol, Greg By Courtney Colavita distribution company, if a fi rm was will- Krelenstein and Leigh Lezark have had on fashion. Horyn indicated a connection between the ing to buy out the contract from Staff. MisShapes’ slender frames and bowl-shape haircuts and Slimane’s Dior Homme models MILAN — Renzo Rosso breezed through Rosso denied there was any possi- in his July runway show. Both Nicol and Lezark attended that show, and Horyn wrote the New York for his Diesel fashion show bility of Dsquared’s leaving Staff in the designer had been to SoHo’s Don Hill’s club, the home of MisShapes parties, at least once. last week, bringing along a battery of foreseeable future. “We are happy and Au contraire, Ms. Horyn, said Slimane. On Friday, the designer faxed WWD to set the record intriguing rumors and reports on his we have developed a very good situa- straight. Slimane said he culled inspiration from the emerging music scene in Southend, business holdings, including the pos- tion for them. We have fi ve more years London. “There must be some confl ict sible acquisition of Viktor & Rolf and a left in our deal.” of interest I am not aware of,” Slimane potential change in his production deal Under Staff International, the stated. “I would gladly own up to being with Dsquared. Dsquared label has fl ourished, growing inspired by something if it were the truth, The ambitious Italian entrepreneur from 3 million euros in annual sales but Ms. Horyn’s reporting seems not to be is said to be in advanced talks with in 2000 to 70 million euros, or about based on fact and it makes me question Dutch design stars Viktor Horsting and $83 million, in 2005. Most recently, what’s behind it.” Rolf Snoeren to acquire all or part of Dsquared signed a multiyear fragrance Horyn said, after reading the fax: “I their business — a deal that could be license with Italy-based ICR, with the don’t know all of Hedi’s inspirations for his motivated in part by the potential fu- fi rst scent set to drop next year, along July men’s show, but it is apparent that ture defection of Dsquared designers with the opening of the fi rst Dsquared there is a similarity between the style of Dean and Dan Caten, possibly to Italian store in Milan. the two men in MisShapes and the models manufacturer Aeffe SpA. The Catens But Rosso noted of the agreement in the show. Certainly, the hair.” acknowledged they have been in discus- with the Catens: “It’s up to them. They No hard feelings between Slimane and sions with Aeffe on an unspecifi ed man- have to choose what they like. I can the MisShapes boys, however. “I think you ufacturing agreement, but denied they only do the best that I can.” guys are good for New York nightlife,” he have any plans to exit their Diesel deal. The Catens denied any impending wrote. “But I am sorry to say, it [the show] Rosso said no deal for Viktor & Rolf departure from the Staff International was not about you.” — Marc Karimzadeh Looks from the Dior Homme show. had been consummated, but did not umbrella. “We have absolutely no directly deny he was in negotiations plans to break contract with Staff ALL OVER: A party to celebrate new window displays? Why not — it was New York Fashion for the company, which is half owned International,” said Dan Caten. Week. Bergdorf Goodman invited a crowd that included Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough by Horsting and Snoeren, and half by He acknowledged, however, that of Proenza Schouler and Carlos Souza to the third fl oor of its men’s store on Wednesday Italian manufacturer Gibò. Dsquared has been in discussions evening to celebrate the new window designs. Bergdorf’s windows are a collaboration with The “We are looking around, we are seeing with Aeffe SpA about a manufacturing New York Times T: Men’s Fashion issue — which came out Sunday — and had a “Lost Boys” what is going on in the market, but it’s not agreement of some sort. “There will be theme that displays giant photographic prints by photographer Jean-Baptiste Mondino. Clothing true that we are in a deal,” said Rosso. a future venture with Aeffe,” he said, in the windows is styled to mirror the tough, urban, rock-inspired imagery of the photographs. A spokeswoman for the Dutch de- declining to elaborate. The party also featured DJ Paul Sevigny, Chloë Sevigny’s brother. Meanwhile, downtown on sign duo denied any deal had been Sources in Milan speculated on any Prince Street, Marie Claire held court in the loft of philanthropist Henry Buhl to celebrate its completed, saying: “All the rumors number of possible deals that capital- Haute Shopping SoHo weekend. Sarah Michelle Gellar, one of the party’s hosts, was wearing a and speculation involving any acquisi- ize on Aeffe’s production prowess: from Marchesa gold lace corseted bubble cocktail dress and Prada shoes. She’s also going to be on tion of Viktor & Rolf by Renzo Rosso of high-end women’s apparel to luxury foot- the magazine’s November cover. On Thursday, actresses Michelle Trachtenberg and Dana Delany; Diesel are completely untrue and un- wear, courtesy of its Italian accessories Giuliana DePandi, co-anchor of E News, and Bill Rancic — winner of “The Apprentice” — made substantiated.” company, Pollini, which it acquired in the rounds at W’s fashion week party in a Fifth Avenue penthouse. — Amy Wicks Rosso, whose Only the Brave hold- 2000. Currently Dsquared women’s shoes ing company posted sales of $1.4 billion are produced under license to Vicini and INSTANT ACCESS: Fashion news used to seep out very slowly, often not appearing until months last year, added, “In the past, people men’s footwear by Galizio Torresi. after the models had walked the runway. Of course, all that changed with photographs, then said that I bought Helmut Lang or Jil An Aeffe spokeswoman in Milan said video, cable and now, the Internet. As fashion bloggers seem to pop up like mushrooms, Sander. Every time they want some- there was “nothing to communicate” re- designers and show organizers are struggling with how to cope with all of them demanding thing on the market, they use my name. garding Dsquared. If Aeffe were to land access and live video feeds. This season, a handful of media outlets, including MSN and I am very concentrated on developing Dsquared licenses for shoes and fashion New York magazine, put up same-day video footage of New York runway shows. Surprisingly, Diesel and Martin Margiela. I have a collections, it would add another high- the outlet with the most comprehensive video coverage was upstart blogger network lot to do there.” profi le brand to its roster of designer Coutorture Media. As of Thursday, it had posted 31 videos of runway shows online and put Curiously, that last statement did not labels. The company owns controlling up still photos of every look on Flickr so its bloggers could have free photo rights. include Dsquared, the designer brand interests in Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Editor in chief Julie Fredrickson, who was graduated from the University of Chicago last that Rosso’s Staff International division Pollini and Velmar. Additionally, the year and blogs at Almost Girl, even scored a video interview with Vogue editor in chief has rights to manufacture and distribute group has manufacturing and distri- Anna Wintour in the tents. But it wasn’t easy. Fredrickson only made it as far as the second under an agreement that runs through bution agreements with Jean Paul question when Kelly Cutrone of p.r. fi rm the People’s Revolution demanded that Frederickson 2011. Relations between the Catens and Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez, Basso & stop. IMG, which organizes 7th on Sixth, also restricted Coutorture and other media Rosso have been reportedly rocky at Brooke, Sinha-Stanic and Authier. companies from broadcasting more than two minutes of footage from inside the tents per times, and the Dsquared twins could — With contributions from day. A spokesman for IMG said the organization planned to overhaul its video policy, which jump ship to another manufacturing and Miles Socha has not changed in years, and promised not to revoke the credentials of any media fi rm that exceeded the limit, as long as the video was used only for editorial purposes. — Cate Corcoran

DOMINATING THE AISLE: With its acquisition of the Wedding Channel, made fi nal last week, the Knot said it has managed to corner about 90 percent of the online bridal audience, cementing Retail Apparel Prices See Uptick its dominance of the wedding market online and, increasingly, in print. The purchase also put an end to a pileup of legal fees for both parties, since the Wedding Channel (actually a Web By Evan Clark site) has for three years been suing its current owner for patent infringement on a search tool. David Liu, chief executive offi cer of the Knot, said the visitor overlap for the two sites WASHINGTON — Retail prices on women’s apparel increased a seasonally ad- was only 20 percent, since brides-to-be come to the advertising-supported Knot and their justed 1.3 percent in August and were 2.2 percent ahead of a year earlier, accord- guests tend to use the registry service Wedding Channel, which earns commissions on gifts ing to the Labor Department’s Consumer Price Index. purchased there. The Wedding Channel lost $6.7 million last year, and though the Knot can The monthly report, released Friday, also offered a snapshot of infl ation: blame itself for its new property’s nearly $5 million in legal fees, the Wedding Channel sank Prices of all goods inched up 0.2 percent, compared with 0.4 in July. The core rate $2.4 million in its print magazine until shutting it down in March. Interestingly, the Knot’s of infl ation, which takes into account prices on all goods except volatile food and own publishing offshoots are doing well; revenue from the Travel + Romance partnership energy products, also rose 0.2 percent in August, matching its increase in July. with American Express Publishing and 17 local print magazines has grown 30 percent this The latest figures come as the Federal Reserve Board’s Open Market year. Its Nest magazine for newlyweds has a controlled circulation of 400,000, avoiding the Committee, which has been trying to slow infl ation, prepares to meet on newsstand altogether. Second-quarter net revenues for the publicly traded company overall Wednesday. The Fed had 17 consecutive rate increases until it ended the two- were up 31 percent this year, to $17.7 million. year run of boosts last month and opted to keep the benchmark federal funds “We survived the dot-com bust by being in all forms of media,” said Liu. “We needed to interest rate at 5.25 percent. be everywhere — sort of taking a page out of the ESPN or Martha Stewart playbook.” That “They’re going to sit on the sidelines,” said Richard Yamarone, chief econo- means that, in addition to an application-rich Web site with streaming video, the Knot makes mist at Argus Research Corp., predicting that the Fed would make no change itself known in its seven already-released books (there are seven more to come), its weekly in the interest rates. “The consumer sector is not as dire as many had believed. show on the Oxygen network, distribution on the Comcast video-on-demand service and Energy prices have fallen, and that’s given consumers more money to spend.” multiple newspaper content deals. Shoppers might be affected if the economy cools, as many economists pre- The Knot’s Web traffi c in June was 17 times that of its nearest competitor, the Condé dict. Nast-owned brides.com, and that was before the company owned the Wedding Channel. A “There is going to be a slowdown coming in the next three to six months,” said Brides spokeswoman declined to comment. — Irin Carmon Rajeev Dhawan, director of the Economic Forecasting Center at Georgia State University. “It’s already on the way, so the [retail] sales are not going to be as JUMPING IN: If he were still alive, Chuck Taylor, of Converse shoe fame, probably would be proud to good as people were expecting, say, six or nine months ago. What really matters learn that his name is the driving force behind the new ad campaign for Converse by John Varvatos’ when it comes down to spending money is how are [consumer] incomes doing and fi rst men’s and women’s clothing collections. The campaign, which will appear in more than a how are their job prospects doing,’’ not just oil prices and the Fed’s actions. dozen magazines in October, features athletically inspired high-end vintage knits, woven tops, T- After years of defl ation, partly because of lower-cost imports and fi erce com- shirts, sweaters and tailored jackets and bottoms. Amanda De Cadenet shot the campaign and Yard petition in the retail sector, prices of women’s apparel have shown some buoy- — which also does advertising for John Varvatos — is the creative agency behind the campaign. ancy; seasonally adjusted prices were up 1.6 percent this year. Over the past fi ve “‘Get Chucked’ is a call to action,” said Stephen Niedzwiecki, president and creative director at Yard. years, prices had dropped 4.4 percent. “It’s a state of mind. It’s a personal statement to stand up and say something.” He added that the In August, dress prices increased 2.1 percent and were 13.2 percent ahead goal is to make a statement without preaching to its audience, 18- to 25-year-olds. Seven different of a year ago, and suits and separates were up 1.9 percent for the month and 3.7 images will run in magazines such as Interview, Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, W and Elle. — A.W. percent from August 2005. Women’s outerwear had a mixed showing; prices were up 3.2 percent for the month, but down 9.3 percent against a year earlier. Hear How The Best Brands Do It Join the editors of WWD and 100 senior apparel executives for a one-day branding forum.

Presenters Include J John Demsey | The Estée Lauder Companies Group President

J Robert Duffy | Marc Jacobs International President & Vice Chairman

J Paul Wilmot | Paul Wilmot Communications Managing Partner

J Scott Beaumont | Lilly Pulitzer Chief Executive Offi cer

J Allen Burke | QVC Director, Beauty Merchandising

J Liz Lange | Liz Lange Maternity Founder & Chief Executive Offi cer

J Mary Gleason | Perry Ellis International President, Licensing

J Bob Lord | Avenue A/Razorfi sh President, East Region

J Lynn Gonsior | Design Forum Executive Vice President

J Amy Fuller | MasterCard Worldwide Group Executive, Americas Marketing Who Should Attend Presidents, CMOs, EVPs, Directors of Branding, Marketing, Merchandising, Brand Development, Product Development, and more.

For more information on the program, please email [email protected] or call 866.211.1627

SPONSORED BY 24 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 Bloomingdale’s Bets Big on San Continued from page one to translate the excitement of the 59th Street fl agship,” The dramatic glass facade which, at more than 900,000 gross square feet (includ- on the Mission Street side ing 549,000 square feet for selling), is the largest unit of Bloomingdale’s. in the chain. The San Francisco debut is another seminal mo- ment for Bloomingdale’s. Two-and-a-half years ago, the retailer opened a 79,000-square-foot store in SoHo in Manhattan, making its mark on the contemporary world and fi nessing a new, smaller format. “SoHo changed per- ceptions about Bloomingdale’s total character and about who we are,” Gould said. Now Bloomingdale’s is muscling into a city where its fi ercest competitors are fi rmly entrenched, generating huge volumes. They have been aggressively renovating in anticipation of Bloomingdale’s arrival. In addition, Barneys New York will open a 60,000-square-foot fl agship at 48 Stockton Street, just off Union Square, in fall 2007. In the Westfi eld center is a Nordstrom store that is said to have had sales of $126 million last year, and is undergoing a multimillion-dollar remodeling, bring- ing in many new designer and upscale shops. The store has 350,000 gross square feet, with an estimated 250,000 square feet for selling. Five blocks away is Union Square, home to the Macy’s West fl agship, considered the most fashionable Macy’s unit in the chain, as well as a Neiman Marcus that recent- ly was expanded and renovated and posts $116 million in sales. There also is a Saks Fifth Avenue that has sales of about $112 million annually, sources said. And all around the square is a plethora of designer specialty shops. The arrival of Bloomingdale’s is part of a $460 mil- lion renovation of the Westfi eld center, which doubled in size to 1.5 million square feet and linked the new Bloomingdale’s to the mall. The center is a jointly owned project of Westfi eld and Forest City. “If San Francisco is successful, it opens up enormous opportunities around the country,” Gould said. “The competition here is just incredible.” Bloomingdale’s San Francisco unit, with its dramatic glass exterior on the Mission Street facade, strong luxury statement underscored by Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior shops that situated in the city, either selling to the majors or operating their own stores. anchor the main fl oor entrance and intensifi ed contemporary sports- Spring said the vendor matrix essentially was established over the last 15 or 16 wear presentation, sets the standard for future stores. On Nov. 10, a months and, according to Gould, the linchpin was landing Louis Vuitton. relocated Chestnut Hill, Mass., store will open, followed “When Vuitton agreed to come in, other people said, ‘Whoa,’” said Gould. by a San Diego unit on Nov. 18, and another in the spring “Designer and upscale resources take enormous time to make in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif. Next August, distribution decisions. They are very careful. But why did Bloomingdale’s will bow a “lifestyle home furnishings” they come to us? They saw this as a very unique project. They concept, offi cials said, without going into further detail. saw what was happening at Bloomingdale’s is very unique In San Francisco and other locations, Bloomingdale’s today.” is moving into real estate made available as a result Gould said business still thrives when freestanding of department store mergers, including its parent vendor shops operate not far from their outposts inside Federated’s takeover of May Department Stores last Bloomingdale’s. At 59th Street, he said, “Diesel is our num- year. The South Coast Plaza and San Diego units are ber-two resource in men’s sportswear, but they have a fl agship former Robinsons-May stores, the Chestnut Hill, Pa., right on the corner” of Lexington Avenue, across the street store is a former Filene’s and the San Francisco unit is from Bloomingdale’s. a former Emporium unit that’s been vacant for a decade “Armani and Chanel are our number-one and number-two re- and owned by Federated. sources in designer,” even while operating freestanding shops Several regions of the country that have upscale on Madison Avenue and 57th Street, he continued. “There are markets remain untapped by Bloomingdale’s, includ- some customers who feel comfortable in a specialty store setting ing Arizona, Texas and the Pacifi c Northwest. Phoenix, and some customers who want to be entertained by a whole lot Dallas and Seattle are among the cities where the retailer is A plastic-coated of things,” meaning a department store. said to be prowling for sites. zippered shopping Aside from Vuitton and Dior, the 65,223-square-foot main Last year, the 37-unit Bloomingdale’s posted more than $2.3 bag for the opening. fl oor of Bloomingdale’s San Francisco will feature handbag shops billion in sales. Considering all the planned and potential open- from Marc Jacobs, Fendi, Lambertson Truex and Coach. They lead to the checker- ings, it is within Bloomingdale’s grasp to become a $3 billion brand in a few years. board B-way and pale pink cosmetic treatment bars, and then there is a French Art “There is still an opportunity for Bloomingdale’s in a number of major cities in Deco-inspired mirrored perfumery. Among the cosmetic and beauty lines: BeneFit, the country,” said Tony Spring, senior executive vice president and director of stores. Bobbi Brown, Chanel, Clarins, Clé de Peau, Clinique, Crème de la Mer, Dior, Estée “There are even more opportunities for SoHo and alternate concepts.” Lauder, Giorgio Armani Color, Guerlain, Jo Malone, Lancôme, La Prairie, Laura Bloomingdale’s San Francisco has been a 10-year project, that was stalled for a Mercier, MAC, Nars, Shiseido and YSL. variety of reasons, including changes in the ownership of the mall, seismic issues The main fl oor also has shoes from Ferragamo, Chloé, Jimmy Choo (a fi rst for and some litigation. In addition, the glass dome from the old Emporium store was Bloomingdale’s, as is Dior handbags), Sigerson Morrison, Lambertson Truex, Fendi, relocated over the mall, and merchandise planning for the store has been challeng- Sergio Rossi and Michael Kors. Dress accessories include Burberry, M Missoni, ing in light of the competition and the fact that many upscale brands already were Pucci and Adrienne Landau; sunglass labels include Chanel, Gucci and Christian Dior, and fashion watches from Phillip Stein, Michele and L.A.M.B. by Gwen Stefani A rendering of the Louis Vuitton will be sold, to name a few. Fashion jewelry is divided by bridge offerings from Juicy shop on Bloomingdale’s main fl oor. Couture, Betsey Johnson, Carolee and Kenneth Jay Lane, and a “cul-de-sac” featur- ing Good Charma, Michele Negrin and Chan Luu. Fine jewelry includes Roberto Coin, John Hardy and Judith Ripka. There also will be Tag Heuer boutique and David Yurman boutiques. Below is the BART level, encompassing 56,497 square feet and housing home, children’s, the bridal registry and corporate services. There’s also luxury bedding, gourmet cookware, cutlery, gadgets and small electrics. Level two, with 55,175 square feet, houses The New View bridge department with Tahari, DKNY, M Missoni, Dana Buchman, Ellen Tracy and Eileen Fisher; designer sportswear from such labels as Akris Punto, Ralph Lauren Black Label, Michael Kors, St. John Collection, Biba and Sonia Rykiel, as well as intimate apparel and “At Your Service” personal shopping. The coat department offers Burberry, Mackage, St. John, Searle and Moncler, and dresses are from Badgley Mischka, Nicole Miller, Teri Jon and Carmen Marc Valvo. In terms of designer offerings, the San Francisco store will be Bloomingdale’s third most concentrated site, next to Chestnut Hill and 59th Street. Also, there are 71 vendor shops, whereas branches generally contain about 30 vendor shops. WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 25 WWD.COM Sephora Boutiques to Open n Francisco Market In Greece’s Notos Galleries PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Sephora perfum- The 35,000-square-foot third level features contemporary sportswear, coats and dresses from Diane ery and Greek department store Notos Galleries have signed an agree- von Furstenberg, Vince, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Nanette Lepore, Rebecca Taylor, BCBG, Joie, Robert ment to situate Sephora cosmetics departments within Notos locations. Rodriguez, Iisli, Alice + Olivia, Juicy Couture, Theory, James Perse and Birdie. There is a large pre- Notos Galleries operates four doors in Greece and plans to open mium denim presentation with Rock & Republic, Chip & Pepper, Joe’s Jeans, True Religion, Miss more over the next three years. Sixty, Diesel, Seven For All Mankind and Citizens of Humanity. Also on three is the Mission View “We are proud to have a partnership with the most innovative room for special events. cosmetics retailer in the world,” Notos’ managing director, Barbara The 41,012-square-foot fourth fl oor houses men’s, which is split between classic and contemporary Vernicos, said in a statement. “Notos is happy to offer its custom- looks. Classic sportswear brands include Polo Ralph Lauren, Boss Hugo Boss, Corneliani, Burberry ers a larger range of exclusive London, John Varvatos and Ballantyne, while “The Lab,” for contemporary sportswear, will sell Marc beauty brands and services in Jacobs, Martin Margiela, Dsquared, Viktor & Rolf, Number Nine and APC. our stores.” According to Jack Hruska, executive vice president of creative services: “We decided the building BEAUTY BEAT Jacques Levy, president of should read as fi ve specialty stores. Each fl oor is distinguished by its own display techniques, its own Sephora, added in the state- music and different service components. Even the restrooms are designed individually.” ment, “Sephora’s franchise partnership with Notos is a natural mar- However, the store and its shops are tied together in a Bloomingdale’s mood by the signature black riage between two retailers that share the same values and want to trim that frames almost every business, Hruska noted. “It’s the eyebrow,” he said. The one exception play in the high-end segment of the market. Notos is famous for its is the men’s fl oor, which is fi nished in taupe and darker woods. The store has a total of 252,834 square services and exclusive brands in beauty; we both share the same feet of selling space. passion for fashion, beauty and services to our consumers.” With the south side of the store Preparing the B-way. done in glass, natural light fl ows onto the fl oors, affecting the fl ow Inter Parfums SA Earnings Rise 21% in 2nd Half of traffi c. “The light from outside PARIS — Inter Parfums SA, the Paris-based subsidiary of Inter pulls you through the building,” Parfums Inc., registered second-half profi ts of 9.9 million euros, or Hruska said. Vistas extend across $12.2 million at average exchange, up 21 percent year-over-year. the selling fl oors, with escalators As reported, the company’s sales in the period increased 11 per- placed in the rear to improve sight cent to 101 million euros, or $124.3 million. lines and provide better space for Inter Parfums SA’s operating profi ts grew 15 percent to 14.8 million vendors. The store has fi ve main euros, or $18.2 million, thanks to an effective business model and effec- aisles, so no brand is buried be- tive accounting tools and reporting, the company said in a statement. hind another, and each shop is just It added that its operating margins, which increased 56 basis 15 to 16 feet deep, making shopping points to 14.7 percent in the half, were “superior to budgetary pro- easier. “There’s a lot of beachfront visions and near to its historic high.” property. You can see the offerings The company’s focus for the rest of the year will largely be on the up close and you can see out to launch of the scents Rumeur, from Lanvin, and Burberry London where you are going,” Gould said. Men. For 2007, new fragrance projects are planned for Roxy, Paul High ceilings, at 13 to 14 feet, Smith and Christian Lacroix. add to the openness, and the shoe For 2006, Inter Parfums SA projected sales will come in at 210 million department has a richer, residential euros to 215 million euros, or $266.6 million to $273 million at current feel, with screens that break up the exchange. Net profi ts should be about 18 million euros, or $22.9 million. fl oor. For the San Francisco project, A concentrated Bloomingdale’s worked with archi- presentation of tects Robert Young and Associates, Obagi Medical Sets Initial Public Offering premium denim. KA Architects and John Pederson NEW YORK — Obagi Medical Products, the maker of prescription-grade Fox, as well as the interior design skin care treatments including the Obagi Blue Peel, plans to go public. fi rm of Tucci, Segrete & Rosen. The fi rm, which distributes its wares to plastic surgeons and The investment in staff is greater dermatologists, fi led a registration statement Wednesday with the than usual. The store will employ Securities and Exchange Commission for an initial public offering about 550 people and training pro- of its common stock. The planned IPO is expected to generate net grams were extended to 19 weeks proceeds of some $86.2 million. from 13 for senior managers, and The company, based in Long Beach, Calif., was founded by Zein to 11 weeks from eight for junior Obagi in 1988 and has a portfolio that includes Obagi Nu-Derm managers. To hype the opening System, which is said to treat photo-damage and in 2005 accounted and connect with the community, for 70 percent of the company’s sales; Obagi Nu-Derm Condition Bloomingdale’s will offer a special and Enhance Systems, designed to be used in conjunction with cos- plastic-coated zippered shopping metic procedures such as Botox and laser resurfacing; Obagi-C Rx bag, guerrilla market with outdoor System, and Obagi Professional-C. Since 2001, the fi rm has grown billboards featuring the Happening sales from $35.6 million to $64.9 million last year. tag line, distribute its Hot cata- Obagi Medical Products plans to apply to list its common stock logue, run newspaper ads and stage on the Nasdaq Global Market under the symbol OMPI. a benefi t for the University of California San Francisco Children’s Cancer program at the store Sept. — Molly Prior 26 that will be followed by a week of other charity events. Proceeds of a Bloomingdale’s-designed umbrella will be donated to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. But success in the crowded San Francisco market depends on providing a distinctive shopping experience in terms of product mix, service and the environment, Gould observed. “This is not about opening our biggest store next to 59th Street,” he said. “The world doesn’t need another big store. It’s Escada Names Biella about what we do to make this an intimate place to shop. On one hand, it’s a headquarters assort- ment; on the other, it’s a warm, exciting experience.” It’s also about Bloomingdale’s ability to provide a synergistic, unique mix of products, Gould stressed. It’s a niche ranging from designer, contemporary, bridge and better, and from fashion to As Creative Director home. “We have the ability to mix it up better than others. That gives us a different energy.” By Melissa Drier couture, ready-to-wear, Roma and Uomo lines, as well as the BERLIN — Escada AG has named license business. He also had Damiano Biella to the new posi- creative responsibility for the ad tion of creative director. campaigns and the presentation The appointment confi rms a of the Valentino lines to retail- WWD report on Sept. 6 that the ers and media. Prior to joining 35-year-old Italian was possibly Valentino, he worked at Carolina heading to the German fashion Herrera for fi ve years, and earli- house following his resignation er worked for Celine and Gucci. as Valentino’s design director. “In Damiano Biella, we have Biella’s appointment is ef- won a renowned and internation- fective Oct. 1 and ushers in a ally experienced creative director new design era for Escada. He with a distinctly feminine signa- replaces design director Brian ture,” said Escada chief execu- Rennie, who had overseen the tive offi cer Frank Rheinboldt in a development of the Escada col- statement. “With Damiano Biella, lections since 1994. we want to open a new era in the Biella, who had been seen as design of the Escada brand. The a potential internal candidate brand has to be developed further A look of to succeed Valentino upon his in the spirit of the age.” luxury in eventual retirement, joined the Biella said “it is an exciting accessories. Roman fashion house in 2003. challenge to give the Escada

STORE PHOTOS BY KRISTEN LOKEN STORE PHOTOS BY He was responsible for the de- look an emotional and fashion- velopment of the Valentino able new luxurious defi nition.” 26 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006

NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

DESIGNERS-----MERCHANDISERS Showrooms & Lofts PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD CONTRACTOR 1)Merchandiser Jr Denim 2) Design N-I-T MERCHANDISER BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Couture eveningwear company seeks 3) Design Girl 4/16 Denim/Sptswr 4) Assists Major apparel company seeks experienced Great ’New’ Office Space Avail sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 high quality contractor for cutting + Call 212-643-8090 Fax 643-8127 Agcy individual to create and merchandise ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 sewing of production + special orders. the line for men’s/ young men’s Latino Please call/fax 212 629 3004 Factory Sewing Mgr to $80K Current sportswear brand. High-end urban www.TUNGSTENCOMMERCIAL.com exp in woven women’s blouses/ shirts or speciality stores distribution. Experi- 100+ current spaces, pix & floorplans Designer $80-100K BOE Current exp in men’s woven shirts. Supervise 200 ence with sample making necessary. 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DESIGNER Please contact Stacy at: (212) 481-0031 Handbag and Small Leather Goods Fax resume: 212-869-2236 New York City Location HANDBAG DESIGNER/to $60K+ Well established & highly respected Designer Branded Line Great oppty. better leather handbag & small leather in NYC to work on well known, trendy SHANGHAI EXP’D MFR goods manufacturer seeks highly well designer dept. store line of bags/ acces- Patternmaker/Draper Better/designer eveningwear supplier. rounded designer w/ a min. of 5 yrs sories. Req: 1+ years designing hand- Major Sleepwear Manufacturer seeks a Quality work, Quick turnaround hands on exp w/ off shore design, prod- bags, work at fast pace, strong F/T Patternmaker/draper with a mini- Call (212) 461-4852 www.alamoda.com uct development & manufacturing. Illustrator/Photo skills, design school. mum of 3 years experience. Must have Candidates must be excellent at hand Email resume: [email protected] strong patternmaking skills and sketching designs & have knowledge Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 knowledge of garment construction. of construction & consumption. Must Daywear experience a plus but not a be able to successfully multi task. Human Resources VP to $200K. Current must. Computer skills also a plus. Working well w/ all departmental team exp in apparel or wholesale co. that Please fax resume Attn: Keith members in a fast paced environment does min of 500 million to 1 billion 212-685-4341 while meeting deadlines is a must. dollars of sales required. Reorganize Admin Since 1967 Travel req’d. Please e-mail resume in con- and construct HR dept.Call 973-564-9236 PATTERN/SAMPLES W-I-N-S-T-O-N fidence to: [email protected] Patternmaker/Tech Designer $80-100K Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Marketing/Licensing Current strong exp in bras. Able to grade work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 APPAREL STAFFING patterns. Tech pkgs for domestic and DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Assistant overseas. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY PATTERNS, SAMPLES, ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Rare opportunity within exciting fast (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 DESIGNER paced fashion company. Manage the PRODUCTIONS Major apparel company seeks experi- day to day marketing and brand man- All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Bookkeeper -Full Charge enced individual to create and design agement administration tasks. Assist Call Sherry 212-719-0622. line for men’s/young men’s Latino in the development and distribution of Midtown apparel firm. Full knowledge sportswear brand. High end urban of Quickbooks and Excel. Salary public relations and promotional mate- PhatFarm, BabyPhat, Enyce, specialty stores distribution. Experi- rials. Work with editors, buyers, and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, commensurate with experience. ence with sample making necessary. 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BS in Marketing, Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee oriented person for order entry, billing, able to meet deadlines, detail oriented, 3-5 years experience in similar role. Sleepwear/Intimates JCP www.midcomre.com Any Style - Full Service inventory control. Office Manager 5+ yrs. exp. Photoshop & Illustrator exp . Knowledge of MS Windows. Fluent in Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 experience. Full Time with benefits. Fax resume to: (212) 868-2780 or Spanish. Fax resumes to 212.239.2766 [email protected] Fax resume to 212-921-7082. Att: Alan Email: [email protected] www.srisearch.com WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 27

BUYER LOS ANGELES BASED Accessories: Sr. Sales Executive seeking position in 3-5 years experience in better specialty store or boutique, accessory category. Exp’d w/all majors. Account Executive Must be financially sound Co. looking to contemporary, better juniors or young designers’ market grow. Call Ronald 215-360-8598 relationships established with a specific responsibility in LAGOS, one of the most successfully marketed luxury designer jewelry brands in America, has a NYC/NJ/Philadelphia based oppty for an exp’d Smalls Panties Sales Reps trendy apparel. Accessory and / or shoe experience a plus. exec. 3-5 yrs success in luxury brand sales, strong analytical background Jennifer Aniston and Heather Graham Must have strong fashion sense along with knowledge of wear them and so should you. Smalls & ability to expand sales and profitability in our existing independent store 100% cotton panties is going nation- market. Ability to be part of a creative team. business as well as develop new accounts. Responsible for NE territory. wide. We are looking for independent sales reps w/ established relationships. Requires 60% travel. SALARY + BONUS + BENEFITS. Specialty, lifestyle & trendy boutiques [email protected] Please respond via email to [email protected] A+. All dom. territories. allsmalls.com. Please e-mail inquiries to: or via fax: attn: Human Resources 215-925-0831 [email protected] No phone calls please! EEO/AA Production Sourcing Mgr $90-110K. Current exp in outerwear required. Source WW + negotiate prices. Must hang w/ outerstuff, Amerex, Rothchild, SALES ASSOCIATE GIII, Bear, Weatherproof etc. Tribeca clothing store seeks Call 973-564-9236 JARAL AGCY. a highly motivated Sales Associate. Experience a must. Full Time/Part Time QC Manager $100-125K. Current exp in Please fax resume to: (212) 566-3338 Graphic Designer production QC involved with fit, fabric or E-mail: [email protected] performance, counter samples. Supervise Leading Women’s Sleepwear tech designers. Inspection + evaluation Sr. Account Executive Company seeking Graphic/Cad of factories WW. Extensive travel. artist with 3-5 years experience in Call 973-564-9236. AGCY. Leading Sleepwear Manufacturer SALES EXECUTIVE is seeking an Account Executive Basha Accessories LLC is looking to Junior sleepwear. Must be highly add to our sales team. Experience in creative, able to design original QUALITY CONTROL to launch & manage department 1 yr exp to Dir KNIT & WOVEN store & specialty store junior the scarf and wrap industry preferred. prints/embroideries/appliqués and Products kids, jr, & women Pls fax resume to Dan: 212-869-6927 or flat sketch. Must be proficient in Call Janet Jourdan 727-772 8717 sleepwear label. E-mail: [email protected] Illustrator and Photoshop. Good [email protected] The qualified candidate will have 5 sense of trend and color. High plus years of department store Sales- Key Account Exec to $150K. paced environment. Need a team SAMPLEMAKER wholesale or retail buying experi- Current exp in womens sportswear player who is flexible. Hi-end eveningwear co. seeks head ence. Individual must have a dealing with JCPenney. This Mdtn Co. samplemaker/samplemakers. Min 10yrs is presently strongly established with exp. Email: [email protected] strong junior/contemporary back- Please e-mail resume and salary JC Penney. Promote new programs. ground and specific sleepwear Maintain present sales to increase total requirements to: sales. Call 973-564-9236. AGCY. [email protected] SOURCING background is required. Strong Major apparel company seeks high retail math, analytical, and level sourcing executive. Must have computer skills are needed. Ideal PLANNERS $40-70K excellent leadership, management, and Many openings! 1-4yrs exp problem solving and communication candidate must be an organized, w/ Mass, Mid or Dept Stores skills. Individual will negotiate with self motivated and a team player. Retail/Wholesale; OTB; factories and all related duties. Product Projections & Markdowns. is geared toward Dept. store and mid Please e-mail your WAL-MART, RETAIL LINK tier level. Extensive travel involved. resume and salary requirements SALES MANAGER Call Diana 212-947-3399 Please fax resume to 212.239.2766 or e-mail [email protected] to: [email protected] & EXECUTIVE KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Lacier, an elegant brand new jewelry SOURCING/to $130k+ select shop, seeks for a sales executive For young men’s div. of major NYC Product Development Mgr & Manager who loves to be surrounded apparel co. Must have strong factory w/ beautiful jewelry. Candidate will LICENSED KIDS contacts for denim, woven’s & knits. in Disney, Warner, Nickelodeon COSTUME JEWELRY need fascinating communication skills. the mid-tier range, in China/ etc. Abil- Rapidly growing NY co. has full and This is a great opportunity for people Manage Team of Designers. $120K ity to neg.prices, follow up skills. Call Laurie 212-947-3399 part-time open positions in Sales, who have always dreamt to be in the Email resume: [email protected] production and design. Experience jewelry industry. Send resume to: or e-mail [email protected] Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS and strong interest in field a must! [email protected] Email: [email protected] Fax: 212.962.1432 Tech Designer $100-125K Current PRODUCTION exp in kids or womens w/ strong Wal- Accessory co. seeks organized & detail Mart Standard’s knowledge. Midtown oriented individual. Communicate kidswear co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY with overseas factories. Must have ** Key Account Manager ** SALESPERSON strong computer & communication Technical Designer $100-125K Current Well-established apparel accessory co Missy/Plus Size Knit Company. Must skills. Mandarin a plus. exp in either swimwear or bras has an exciting and challenging in- be aggressive, have good account base E-mail resume: [email protected] house position for exp’d Account with strong contacts. Email resume to: required. 6th Ave near 33rd St. Large _ expanding co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY Manager selling major retailers. Duties salesperson [email protected] Production Assistant include total account management Junior/Uniforms NY company seeks an from concept to delivery. Must have asst. with 1 yr. exp. to work with design/ Technical Designer significant apparel experience and/or sales team in all facets of prod. resume Men’s branded & private label sports- sales background with a proven track SALESPERSON (S) and sal. req. to [email protected] wear co. seeking a technical designer record. Travel required. Fax resume Dom/Imp sweater/knits private label to work on all menswear categories. and salary history to 612-729-1976 or manufacturer w/ current vendor num- Production Assistant Highly organized and detail oriented. e-mail: [email protected]. Mail- bers at all Majors, seeks experienced Responsibilities include garment spec ing address: 2633 Minnehaha Ave S., salesperson(s) for Ladies, Juniors, and Major apparel company seeks detail- Minneapolis, MN. 55406. oriented and organized assistant for development and review, production Girls. E-mail resume to: busy production dept. Responsibilities packages, flat sketching and product [email protected] include P/O entry, work order entry & development. Analyze garments to Confidentiality maintained. QC tracking plus follow up, & handling determine compliance of spec, con- of all packing and carton markings. struction, fit & quality. Communication Must have good computer and com- with overseas factories. Must have MARKETING/SALES VP munication skills. AS 400 experience knowledge of construction and ability For Miami-based high fashion leather preferred. Fax resumes to 212-239-2766 to properly measure garments. Exten- & denim co. Exp. req’d in fashion sive computer- aided software design industry & exp. desired in creating / knowledge, Web PDM & basic comput- managing independent rep sales force. Production Assistant er skills required. Salary range of $60-75K plus negotiable Trim Development Competitive salary & benefits. percentage on gross revenues. For Tahari by Arthur Levine Fax resume with salary history to: Please respond to Fax: (202) 783-8730 Are you a sales or purchasing assistant A. LaFrance at 212-736-2349 or e-mail: or [email protected] Trimmings & Ribbons in the button industry? Exciting oppty [email protected]. www.enworldwide.com Mfr seeks experienced and motivated to join a fast-paced suiting company Equal Opportunity Employer M/F. Sales Rep w/ knowledge of industry. experiencing rapid growth! We offer Strong following a must. All territories a competitive salary and excellent open except NY. For details visit our Traffic Coord to $50K Current exp in website www.shindo.com benefits! Please email resume to: apparel co. req’d. Open LC’s, send Docs [email protected] Call 212-868-9311 Hiro/Steve for custom clearances, follow up Penny Preville, a dynamic and industry shipments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. leading company in fine jewelry, is PRODUCTION ASST looking for a high energy, well organized Ladies Intimate Apparel Co seeks prod. sales account executive.Workina assistant for our graphic design dept. pleasant environment with great Tripp NYC Knowledge of Adobe Illustrator is a growth potential. Some travel required Sportswear/Streetwear Co must. Create and alter tech packs for to nation’s top retailers. Salary nego- has an exciting oppty for an energetic, prod. Must be able to work in fast paced tiable based on exp. Health benefits. aggressive, well-organized individual environment to meet deadlines. Send Please email your resume asap to w/ strong follow up skills. Must have resumes to: [email protected] [email protected] solid relationships w/ dept & specialty stores and 3-5 years exp in sales. Excellent potential & benefits. Email resume sal req: [email protected] Production Co-ord $65 K+ PRIVATE LABEL Min 5 years experience with strong ca- reer goals. Must have excellent SALES communitation skills and computer Private label ladies sportswear co skills to handle all phases of produc- seeks a team player who can initiate tion from initial order to final del. and follow through on programs from Costing an advantage. concept to delivery. 5 years sales/ product development experience with Production Ass’t. $50 K good merchandising skills and estab- Looking for a passionate career mind- lished contacts preferred. ed individual with strong computer Send res: [email protected] RETAL STORE skills, and 3 years work experience in MANAGER garment field. Woven exp preferred. Designer Madison Avenue luxury bou- Full benefits. medical/dental/401 K. tique seeks outgoing, motivated, hard Please fax resume to: working individual with strong client [email protected] SALES ASSITANT relations. Contact following a must! Production Sourcing Mgr $90-110K Major Importer seeks energetic ass’t Proven ability to sell high-end products, Current exp in swimwear a must. who has a min of 1-2 yrs w/ Walmart & merchandise a store and manage a Sourcing worldwide required. Mdtn using Retail Link & Excel. Mid $40’s. sales staff. Excellent salary & benefits growing Co. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY. [email protected] package. Please fax 212-452-4350 SPECIAL ISSUES WWDReal Estate GROWTH. EXPANSION. EXPOSURE.

Fashion, beauty and jewelry stores are opening new locations everyday. Advertise in one of WWD’s special real estate issues to ensure these brands are setting up shop with you.

WWDReal Estate Review: A comprehensive look at the nation’s retail real estate market and where it’s heading. Issue Date: October 16 Close: September 28

WWD ICSC Preview: A preview of what the real estate industry will unveil at ICSC, uncovering the macro trends impacting the world of fashion, retail and beauty. Issue Date: November 27 Close: November 9

™ For more information, please contact Michele Chicoine, senior account manager, at WWD Style Starts Here 212-630-3620, or Deborah Levy, account manager, West Coast, at 323-951-1803.

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