HINDMARCH’S NEW INVESTOR/2 BEDAT EXITING GUCCI?/2 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • September 18, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Sterling Quality NEW YORK — Simply radiant. That sums up the look at Ralph Lauren, where the designer sent out a lineup that was the epitome of refi ned understatement, with perfectly rendered styles that swirled, shimmered and shone. Case in point: this subtle stunner, a beaded chemise dress worn over a classic tank. For more, see pages 4 to 11. San Francisco Treat: Bloomingdale’s Lands Flagship on Union Sq. By David Moin ig-city downtown department Bstores aren’t being built that often anymore — unless you’re Bloomingdale’s and aim to be daring. On Sept. 28, the retailer will open its second-largest store, a five-floor, 330,000-square-foot unit in the Westfield San Francisco Centre on Market and Fifth Streets that is seen generating about $75 million in first-year sales and costing about $60 million to build. “This is a true flagship store,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive officer of Bloomingdale’s. “More than any other store, we tried See Bloomingdale’s, Page 24 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 18, 2006 WWD.COM Hindmarch to Build U.S. Presence LONDON — British accessories designer Anya Anya Hindmarch has a new partner, and now she’s eyeing WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear America in a big way. Hindmarch’s Hindmarch will reveal today that Kelso Place Carker bag. Asset Management, a London private equity man- NEW YORK COLLECTIONS ager that also owns the British stationery and Donna Karan balanced urban fi nesse and exotic fl air while Ralph Lauren leather goods brand Smythson, has taken a minor- 4 offered refi ned, smart sportswear as the season drew to a close. ity stake in the accessories company. While nei- ther the amount of Kelso’s investment nor the size GENERAL of its stake were revealed, the investment values Bloomingdale’s will open its second-largest store, a 330,000-square- Hindmarch at about 20 million pounds, or $37.7 mil- 1 foot unit in the Westfi eld San Francisco Centre, on Sept. 28. lion at current exchange. The designer said she plans to use the funds to Retailers are leaving New York with some distinct impressions: dresses step up her expansion program in the U.S. with a 11 are hot, subtle details are in and layering has some lasting power. string of freestanding stores. The company current- ACCESSORIES: Minaudières, clutches, envelope bags and other small ly has 28 stores worldwide, mainly in the Far East. purses made a runway return after several seasons ruled by big bags. Hindmarch has four stores in the U.S. — one each 12 in Los Angeles and at the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey, and two in New York, on East 60th Street and EYE on Greene Street. Booming music fi lled the massive party space on the top fl oor of the She said her immediate plan was to open a larger 3 rebuilt 7 World Trade Center, and Francisco Costa felt the building shake. fl agship on Madison Avenue in New York and one on Sloane Street here. Additional stores will follow Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................26-27 worldwide, although Hindmarch stressed she also wants to build her wholesale distribution. She is sold To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. at such stores as Saks Fifth Avenue and Scoop in the [email protected], using the individual’s name. U.S., Colette in Paris and on the online designer bou- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- tique Net-a-porter.com. RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. “This new investment will allow us to increase VOLUME 192, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- our pace of growth whilst maintaining the values for ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, which the brand is synonymous,” Hindmarch said in Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers a statement. Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; The designer started her handbag company in David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior her apartment here in 1991 and opened her fi rst Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance freestanding store a year later. She quickly became Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. known for her quirky yet clean designs, hitting it 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable big initially with her minibag and then expanding Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS into other shapes, agendas and other CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR leather goods. DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four Her collection covers handbags, travel accessories, agendas, some weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other luggage, footwear and a small line of resort apparel, including knit- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. wear, dresses, caftans and skirts. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, As a result of the investment, two new non-execu- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To tive directors will join the board of Hindmarch: John subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make Drinkwater, a former director at Goldman Sachs who our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would cofounded Kelso Place in 2000, and Sian Westerman, a interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. managing director at Rothschild. There will be no other WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- management changes at the company. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- “Anya Hindmarch is one of the most sought-after ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED An Anya Hindmarch brands in the luxury goods market, and Anya and her credit card case. team have great plans for the long-term development of the business,” Drinkwater said in a statement. MONDAY: London Fashion Week (through Friday). Platform 2, New York (through Wednesday). Texworld, Paris (through Thursday). Asia’s Fashion Jewelry & Accessories Fair, Hong Kong (through Thursday). Bedat Might Be Eyeing Exit From Gucci Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair (through Saturday). By Miles Socha & Co. spokeswoman declined to is one of the smaller and less comment. visible companies in the lux- TUESDAY: Fashion Coterie and Clear, New York PARIS — Gucci Group could be Meanwhile, a Gucci Group ury group’s stable, which also (through Thursday). faced with the exit of Christian spokeswoman said: “We never includes Yves Saint Laurent, Apparel Sourcing Expo Asia, Shanghai (through Bedat, a key figure in its watch comment on rumors or issues Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Wednesday). division, WWD has learned. related to our people.” Boucheron and Alexander Première Vision, Le Cuir à Paris, Mod’Amont, Expofi l According to sources, the Bedat and his mother, McQueen. and Paris Indigo Mode, Paris (through Friday). dynamo behind Geneva-based Simone, one of the founders To be sure, there has been The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Bedat & Co., who also recently of Raymond Weil, introduced some recent upheaval in Gucci Price Index for August. designed timepieces for Gucci their brand in 1996. The col- Group’s watch division. and Boucheron, has differences lection earned quick acclaim Over the summer, a reorgani- WEDNESDAY: Inditex reports second-quarter sales and with the conglomerate over the for its creative and elegant zation put managerial control of earnings. development of the firm that high-end watches. the Gucci brand watch business bears his name and where he Its model No. 3 — a ton- under Gucci brand ceo Mark THURSDAY: WWD Branding Leadership Forum, New and his company fi t within its neau-shaped women’s style with Lee.