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Petrov, Julia. "Index." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019. 227–234. Bloomsbury Collections. Web. 24 Sep. 2021. <>. Downloaded from Bloomsbury Collections, www.bloomsburycollections.com, 24 September 2021, 22:37 UTC. Copyright © Julia Petrov 2019. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher, and provide a link to the Creative Commons licence. INDEX archival methodology 5, 10, 191 121, 127, 142, 145, 149, 152, 153, artists and fashion 10, 15, 18, 36, 40, 156, 163, 179, 180 93–9, 116, 128 Costume Museum of Canada 125 Australia (fashion exhibitions in) 5, 20, 71, Cunnington, C. Willett 78, 171–2, 189 79, 89, 142, 170, 197 authenticity 25, 114, 120, 183 deathliness 1, 18, 137, 151, 168–9 Denver Art Museum 133 Barbican Art Gallery 59, 89 Beaton, Cecil 50, 54, 55, 111, 187, 190, exhibition design 1, 8, 9, 49, 50, 54, 59, 192 113, 120, 183, 196, 198 Beaudoin-Ross, Jacqueline 79 exhibitions as visual media 6–8, 11, 194 behind the scenes 13, 125, 129–31 Biba (designer) 39, 51 fashion 3, 9, 15, 26, 29, 35–6, 37, 160, Blum, Stella 163 186, 195 Bolton, Andrew 81, 192 fashion curation as team product 1, 5, Bowes Museum 59, 132 8, 183 Brett, Katherine B. 26, 97, 153, 164 Fashion Institute of Design and British Museum 32, 33, 118, 189 Merchandising (FIDM) Museum 55, Brooklyn Museum 4, 43, 47, 55, 67, 68, 73, 81 78, 81, 88, 99, 100, 106–7, 108, 109, Fashion Museum (Bath) 4, 26, 44, 48, 55, 126, 143, 145, 149, 153, 177, 191 60, 85, 86, 129, 140, 144, 148, 164, Bruna, Denis 88 179, 189 Burnham, Dorothy 26, 97 folk costume 63, 70, 72, 79, 180 Chanel (designer) 52, 68, 109, 187, 190, Gallery of English Costume 8, 20, 26, 192 168, 189 Christian Dior (designer) 50, 52, 133, 187 Galliera (City of Paris Fashion Museum; Clark, Judith 59, 128, 182, 188 Palais Galliera Musée de la Mode de Coleman, Elizabeth Ann 47, 106, 162 la Ville de Paris) 24, 55, 71, 73, 116, conservation 8, 9, 27, 158, 161, 171, 131, 183 183, 188 Giorgio Armani (designer) 37–8, 132 Costume Court 1, 36, 66, 82, 101, 114, Guggenheim Museum 37, 43, 132 119, 151, 153, 162, 169, 170, 172, 178 Harden, Rosemary 86 Costume Institute 4, 20, 22, 36, 38, Hereford Museum 46 40–1, 43, 44, 45, 48, 52, 54, 57, Hermitage Museum 67 59, 63, 78, 91, 103, 109, 117–18, historical fashion 3, 196 228 INDEX James Galanos (designer) 41 Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA) 13, 23, 66, 99, 100, 120, 177 Kelvingrove Museum 148 Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH) Koda, Harold 54, 81, 156, 180 45, 59 Kyoto Costume Institute 108 Museum of London 4, 15, 18, 20, 71–2, 73, 83–4, 131 Langley Moore, Doris 4, 13, 20, 22, 26, Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) 54, 44, 46, 113, 118, 125, 139, 142, 144, 78–9, 186 147, 153, 173, 179, 189 Museum of the City of New York (MCNY) Laver, James 13, 80, 97, 172–3, 178 85, 115, 122, 130 Lewisohn, Irene 117 Livrustkammaren 15 National Gallery of Canada 130 London Museum. See Museum of nationalism in fashion 14, 39, 72–7, London 197 Los Angeles County Museum of Art National Museums of Scotland 53, 68, (LACMA) 23, 43, 81, 120, 130, 142, 86, 132 180 Newark Museum 67 New Zealand (fashion exhibitions in) 5, mannequins 6, 8, 10, 16, 46, 50, 53–4, 20, 22, 44, 125, 188 56, 69–70, 75, 101, 108, 123, 126, Nordiska Museet 69 138–9, 144, 148, 151, 158, 160–5, 172, 179, 180 Palazzo Pitti 170, 180 Martin, Richard 111, 156, 183, 195 Palmer, Alexandra 36, 65, 148 McCord Museum 4, 44, 79, 86, 158, 180 period rooms 19, 58, 86, 103–5, 113, meaning-making in exhibitions 3–4, 6, 8, 115, 122–3 183 phenomenology 6, 9, 140 Mears, Patricia 192 Philadelphia Museum of Art 43, 66, 70, Metropolitan Museum of Art (Met) 4, 18, 85, 126, 169 20, 22, 27, 40, 59, 68, 73, 78, 81, 85, Pushkin Museum 133 89, 92, 95, 98, 99, 101, 103–5, 113, 116, 120, 122, 123, 126, 127, 130, relics 23, 25, 172 134, 138, 140, 142, 144, 146, 180, Rijksmuseum 53, 142 186, 191 royal clothing 15–16, 79 ModeMuseum (MoMu) 37, 59, 128, 129, Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) 4, 8, 22, 144, 182 26, 43, 44, 65–6, 68, 92, 97, 133, Musée Carnavalet 55, 116, 149 140, 148, 150, 153, 164, 180 Musée des Arts Décoratifs 71, 87–8, 127, 134, 191 Saillard, Olivier 132, 170, 183 Museo del Traje 144 Smithsonian Institution 50, 56, 75–7, 85, Museum at the Fashion Institute of 102 Technology (MFIT) 55, 73, 82, 111, Society for the Museum of Original 170–1, 190 Costume 126 Museum for German History (Deutsches spectacle 1, 121, 197 Historisches Museum) 39 Stanfill, Sonnet 192 Museum Johannaeum 17 Steele, Valerie 91, 190, 192 Museum of Costume. See Fashion Museum Textilmuseet 134 Museum of Costume Art. See Costume time 23, 35–8, 77–8, 167–8, 178–80, Institute 182–4 INDEX 229 uncanniness 1, 162, 168 Wadsworth Athenaeum 72–3 Universal Exhibitions (World’s Fairs) 14, waxwork 10, 13, 16, 18, 23–4, 32–3, 56, 17–18, 70–1, 77, 93, 111–12 72, 75, 116, 162, 172 Weissman, Polaire 22 Valentine Museum 126 Wilcox, Claire 124, 131, 189 Valentino (designer) 54, 120, 132, 187, 197 Wintour, Anna 54, 192 Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) 1, 4, women and fashion 26, 55, 73, 80–4, 13, 15, 18, 20, 22, 26, 28, 36, 40, 44, 112, 182 46, 48, 52, 63, 66, 67, 68, 70, 73, 77, Worth (designer) 55, 109 81, 82, 86, 94, 95, 97, 99, 108, 111, 117, 124, 128, 130, 131, 133, 134, Yeshiva University Museum 74–5 140, 142, 144, 162, 165, 172, 177, Yves Saint Laurent (designer) 37, 81, 91, 182, 186, 189 133, 151, 187 Vogue (magazine) 54 Vreeland, Diana 13, 38, 45, 58, 73, 91, Zac Posen (designer) 40, 43, 54 121, 142, 183, 187, 189, 190, 192 Plate 1 Unknown photographer, slides showing the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute show Vanity Fair (1977), curated by Diana Vreeland. Author’s collection. Plate 2 American designer Zac Posen is shown studying Charles James gowns in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in House of Z (2017). Screencaps by author. Plate 3 Slides showing Siegel mannequins in period room settings at the Costume Museum of the City of Paris, c. 1980. Courtesy Gail Niinimaa. Plate 4 A mannequin wearing the “Sorbet” evening dress is posed like a 1913 fashion plate by Georges Lepape in the Costume Institute preview of Poiret: King of Fashion at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 7, 2007 (Photo by Peter Kramer/Getty Images). Georges Lepape, “Laquelle?,” pochoir print depicting the Paul Poiret “Sorbet” evening dress in the Gazette du Bon Ton 11 (November 1913), Pl. V, Smithsonian Libraries. Plate 5 Museum staff prepare garments for display in online videos from (clockwise from top left) the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (2016), Victoria and Albert Museum (2015), Museum of the City of New York (2016), and the National Gallery of Canada (2016). Screencaps by author. Plate 6 The reality effect of lifelike mannequins is parodied at the Museum of Costume, Bath in “Ancient Models” (1955). Screencaps by author. Plate 7 Two undated postcards showing the same tableau in the Fashion Wing of the Philadelphia Museum of Art; mannequins have been slightly rearranged and dressed in different outfits but the vignette remains the same. Author’s collection. Plate 8 The architecture of the museum is echoed virtually in the Valentino Garavani Museum (Association Valentino Garavani Archives 2012). Screencaps by author..
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