Las Estrellas Según Se Eleva El Nivel Del Restaurante –Y, Por Tanto, Many of Them on the Mediterranean Coast

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Las Estrellas Según Se Eleva El Nivel Del Restaurante –Y, Por Tanto, Many of Them on the Mediterranean Coast entorno Texto: Eva Celada Con dos estrellas Michelin, el restaurante Calima, en Marbella, ofrece cocina de vanguardia. Holder of two Michelin stars, the Calima restaurant in Marbella offers avant-garde cuisine. Restaurantes con premio a famosa guía Michelin se estrenó en 1910 como The famous Michelin guide was launched in 1910 as un directorio para que los automovilistas co- a directory so that drivers would be able to find me- L nocieran talleres donde arreglar sus coches, así chanics to get their vehicles fixed, as well as places at como lugares para hospedarse y comer. Hasta 1974 no which to stay overnight or to stop for meals. The fa- La ruta de aparecen sus famosas estrellas, que se crearon para indi- mous stars did not appear until 1974, when they were car el grado de interés de cada restaurante. Se entregan created to indicate the degree of interest of each res- en otoño, cuando se edita la guía. En este tiempo, cada taurant. The stars were awarded in the autumn, when vez son más los restaurantes españoles que las poseen, the guide was published. Nowadays, there are more una gran parte de ellos en la costa mediterránea. and more Spanish restaurants holding this distinction, las estrellas Según se eleva el nivel del restaurante –y, por tanto, many of them on the Mediterranean coast. Following the Stars las estrellas que posee– los requisitos para mantener- As the category of the restaurant improved, and las son más estrictos. Una buena bodega, un servicio therefore the number of stars held increased, the re- La guía Michelin concede a los restaurantes una distinción de excelencia y calidad. esmerado, confort en la sala, creatividad en las pre- quirements for keeping them have become stricter. A Recorremos algunos de los mejores establecimientos españoles reconocidos por esta guía. paraciones o calidad en los productos son algunas de good wine list, diligent service, comfort in the dining las exigencias imprescindibles, ya que con la guía en room, creativity in the preparation or quality of the The Michelin Guide awards restaurants a distinction to evidence their excellence and la mano viajan miles de clientes que confían en que products served are just some of the essential features, quality. We visit here some of the best Spanish restaurants honoured by this guide. las estrellas les llevarán a los mejores establecimien- as thousands of clients now trust in the guide to lead 64 65 entorno entorno estrellas del mundo. Son tres cocinas de vanguardia Xavier Pellicer con diferentes visiones y una ausencia, la de Ferran Carme Ruscalleda Can Fabes, Sant Celoni Adrià, que cerró las puertas de elBulli el último día de Restaurante Sant Pau, en Sant Pol de Mar “En verano julio. Destaca con dos estrellas Miramar, de Paco Pérez, “Realizo una cocina mediterránea basada preparamos una por sus excelentes preparaciones de pescado. en los productos estacionales, frescos y de cocina muy fresca y Al calor de estos grandes restaurantes, que hay que proximidad, cocinados sin que pierdan sus de temporada, con reservar con meses de antelación, hay otros llenos de valores organolépticos y gastronómicos. productos ligeros encanto con una estrella, en los que con frecuencia se Son productos estacionales, en verano de la y muy digestivos. puede degustar una cocina de entorno o de “kilómetro huerta del mar, y en invierno del mar y de la Nos gusta tener cero”, con toques tradicionales y mucha creatividad. En tierra, sin olvidar las setas y las excelentes productos de mar y montaña, compramos la capital catalana se puede disfrutar de restaurantes piezas de caza de pelo y pluma. Los restaurantes premiados con el pescado cada tarde en la lonja de Blanes, como Lluçanès, en la Barceloneta, en el que preparan estrellas Michelin tenemos que ofrecer muy buena cocina, para ello hay tenemos acceso a lo más fresco del día. En platos como la sopa de flores aromáticas, o Comerç, de detrás un entramado de profesionales que amamos profundamente la cocina catalana se han utilizado desde nuestro trabajo y le dedicamos la vida, para que el cliente culmine las siempre los productos del mar y es lo que expectativas sensoriales que le han traído hasta nosotros”. nos demandan los clientes. Lo que debe o Carme Ruscalleda. Three avant-garde cuisines with dif- no debe tener un restaurante con estrellas ferent visions and one absence, that of Ferran Adrià, Carme Ruscalleda / Sant Pau Restaurant, in Sant Pol de Mar es algo que marca la guía, pero está claro es who closed the doors of his elBulli at the end of July. “I prepare Mediterranean cuisine based on seasonal produce, grown que el hecho de tenerlas ayuda y te sitúa en Also outstanding with two stars is the Miramar, run by locally and freshly picked, cooked so that they don’t lose any of their el panorama gastronómico”. Paco Pérez, with its excellent fish-based preparations. aesthetic and culinary values. As they are seasonal, in summer we Alongside these great restaurants that need to be get them from the gardens under the sea, and in winter from the sea Xavier Pellicer / Can Fabes, San Celoni booked months in advance, there are other equally and from dry land, without forgetting the mushrooms and the excel- “In summer we prepare very fresh seasonal charming locales with one star, where it is often possible lent game bagged in the area. Restaurants awarded a Michelin star produce, with light and easily digested dishes. to enjoy the most local of cooking styles, with tradition- have to offer very good cooking, and to this end we have a whole We like to have products from the sea and al touches and a lot of creativity. In Barcelona, you can army of professionals who are all tremendously in love with our work from the mountains, we buy in our fish every find restaurants like Lluçanès, down on the Barcelone- and we devote our lives to it, so that the client can fulfil the sensorial evening at the port in Blanes, where we have ta, where they prepare dishes like a soup of aromatic expectations that brought them to us”. En los restaurantes Can access to the freshest catches of the day. flowers, or Comerç, owned by Carles Abellán, with its Fabes (arriba) y Sant Pau Catalan cooking has always used sea-based (derecha) se preparan La mayoría elabora exquisitos platos de la products and that is what our clients are look- cocina catalana. Exquisite una cocina basada en ing for from us. What a restaurant with stars dishes from Catalan cuisine has to have or not have is something that’s are prepared at the Can Fabes (top) and Sant Pau la dieta mediterránea decided by the Guide, but having them gives (right) restaurants. you a place on the gourmet panorama”. tos del mundo. En España la mayoría se encuentra en them to the world’s best restaurants. In Spain, most of zonas turísticas, principalmente concentrados en el these restaurants are located in tourist areas, mainly on Mediterráneo: Cataluña, Levante, Andalucía y Baleares; the Mediterranean coast: Catalonia, Levant, Andalusia aunque Canarias también cuenta con un restaurante and the Balearics; although the Canary Islands also boast con estrella. La mayor parte de ellos elaboran platos a restaurant with a Michelin star. Most of them prepare vinculados a su entorno, una cocina basada en la dieta dishes associated with their setting, a cuisine based on mediterránea llena de creatividad y magia. the Mediterranean diet full of creativity and magic. CataluÑA: VanGuaRDIA MEDITERRÁNEA CatalONIA: MEDITERRANEAN AVANT-GARDE Solo en esta comunidad hay más de una treintena de In this region alone there are more than thirty restau- restaurantes con estrella. Tres con tres estrellas, como rants with stars. Three have three stars each, that of the el de los hermanos Roca (el Celler de Can Roca, en Gi- Roca family (the Celler de Can Roca, in Girona); Can rona); Can Fabes, en Sant Celoni, que ahora lidera el Fabes, in Sant Celoni, headed now by chef Xavier Pellic- chef Xavier Pellicer, y Sant Pau, situado en Sant Pol de er; and Sant Pau, located in Sant Pol de Mar and run by Mar y dirigido por Carme Ruscalleda, la mujer con más the woman with the most Michelin stars in the world: 66 67 entorno entorno y en el que la gamba roja se ha convertido en el icono de una gastronomía tecnoemocional con platos ya clá- Dani García sicos, como el Bosque Animado, de bellísima estética. Es Restaurante Calima, en Marbella una cocina de vanguardia en constante evolución que “Hago una cocina con tradición gustativa y cuenta con dos estrellas de la guía. Los arroces los ela- con sabores reconocibles apegados a nuestra boran con especial maestría cocineras con una estrella tierra. Una cocina conceptual y filosófica. No como Susi Díaz, del restaurante La Finca en Elche, en es fácil aunar tradición y vanguardia, pero recetas como el arroz negro con sepieta y guisantes o nunca hay que olvidar de dónde vienes y qué el arroz primavera con gamba, o Soledad Ballester, que hay a tu alrededor. Es un juego serio en el que en Casa Pepa –una finca rodeada de naranjos enO nda- hay que respetar los sabores y productos que ra– ofrece sus magníficos arroces caldosos. EnV alencia, tengan que ver con Andalucía. Si respetas eso ya solo hay que echarle Josep Quintana, chef del restaurante Torrijos, se centra la imaginación y el sentido común necesarios para llevarlo a cabo. El en la cocina más refinada con platos como anchoas y mar para mí es una cuestión cultural y de cercanía que se respira en mi En Dénia, el restaurante Quique moras con remolacha en manjar de pistachos.
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