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Home , Ballyryan, Benbrack, Bluestack Way, Dalkey Hill, Dalkey Quarry, Derryclare

Winter 2020 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 136

HILLWALKING • CLIMBING • MOUNTAINEERING

Visit Joyce Country A new take on ’s hills and lakes

Ice climbing in Canada The Rockies offer endless icy challenges

www.mountaineering.ie

A WORD FROM THE EDITOR

ISSUE 136 The Irish Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering . The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and year like no other is thankfully registered in , No 199053. coming to an end. The Covid-19 Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, restrictions have meant that National Sports Campus, we have not been able to Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. ❝ Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 engage in our sport for much of We are looking forward to a Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 theA year. However, while the pandemic is [email protected] still ongoing, we have perhaps come to hopefully more active 2021! www.mountaineering.ie terms with it to a degree. Going forward, certainly, there is evidence that the spread Hot Wall of the disease is much less likely in the Tollymore Mountain Centre I would like to thank the other members Bryansford, Newcastle outdoors (see page 5 and also page 9), of the Editorial Team very much for their County Down, BT33 0PT which is good for our sport. support in this difficult year, Literary Editor, Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 We have again been able to publish more Peter O’Neill, Features Editor, Nicky Hore, [email protected] features than usual, because we have less and Cóilín MacLochlainn, who produces news, but I hope we have an interesting the magazine for us. Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan selection for the Christmas read! Certainly, Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) I would also like to thank the contributors [email protected] a good range of activities is covered. on whom we depend so much for the Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill A hike on the Way, Comeragh content of this magazine. We are always [email protected] placenames, hiking in Iceland and Malawi, looking for articles from all of our members, Features Editor: Nicky Hore scrambling in the Cuillins and ice climbing whatever your background or experience. [email protected] in the Rockies are all included. Hopefully, I hope that we can all celebrate The Irish Mountain Log is published by something for everyone in the audience. Christmas and the New Year with family Mountaineering Ireland four times a We also have some more reflective pieces and friends in some way, while observing year, in March, June, September, on hillwalking and the lockdown, how the necessary social distancing, etc. December. The material published in different members have reacted to and 2021 will be Mountaineering Ireland’s the Log by the voluntary editorial team coped with it. fiftieth anniversary, so a lot to celebrate and contributors must not be taken as It is a time of the year when we do official Mountaineering Ireland policy then, whatever happens! unless specifically stated. become more reflective, looking back on On behalf of the Editorial Team, and the the year gone by and looking forward to the Board and the staff of Mountaineering Copy deadline for the Spring 2021 year to come. Hopefully the large numbers Ireland, I wish all Mountaineering Ireland issue of the Irish Mountain Log is: that were seen in the uplands after the first members a safe and enjoyable Christmas Friday, February 19th 2021. lockdown ended and the damage caused and New Year, and a hopefully active 2021! will not be repeated when the current Advertising: [email protected] Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor restrictions are lifted. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, [email protected]

Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, BT6 9HP  Write for the Log Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are Contributions of features, news items and photographs for reminded that hillwalking and climbing the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be are activities with a danger of personal sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the accept these risks, and be responsible Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and ON THE COVER promotes safety and good practice To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Lough, , advice and through the Mountain Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please Connemara, Co Galway Training Board of Ireland administers a also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. range of training programmes for PHOTOGRAPH JCWL GEOPARK PROJECT walkers and climbers.

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 3 Knockaunapeebra in the CONTENTS Winter 2020 Mahon valley, in the Comeraghs, Co Waterford (see story, page 38)

15 Our 21-Day Walking Challenge News Linda Sankey reports 5 Covid-19 advice 16 National Famine Way

Way section) Way 6 European Week of Sport 2020 launched Ania Bakiewicz reports Charlotte O’Connor reports 8 Irish Peaks: the perfect 17 ‘Happy Hiking’ campaign Christmas present announced 8 Outdoor sports and Covid-19 Ruth Whelan reports 9 Notice of AGM 18 Kerry UNESCO Biosphere Reserve now active 9 Honorary membership Eleanor Turner reports awarded 19 New committee chair 10 Tips on holding club appointed meetings online Helen Lawless reports 12 2020 Lynam Medal 20 Guth na talún: voice recipient: Clare O’Leary of the land 16 FAMINE WAY LAUNCHED By Patrick O’Sullivan By Michael Hegarty 14 National Walking Day 22 Funding for Appalachian a great success Trail through Ulster Linda Sankey reports 38 What’s in a name? The Inga Block reports Comeraghs’ place names 23 Crossword results By Michael O’Donoghue 42 The warm heart of Africa News Features By Regina Flynn 45 Magical hiking in Iceland 24 2020 Youth Climbing Series By Lar Matthews By Damien O’Sullivan 48 Scrambles in the Cuillin 26 Summer Rock Climbing Days By Alan Tees By Kevin Kilroy 50 Ice climbing in the Rockies 28 Put a lid on it! By Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh Damien O’Sullivan on the benefits of modern climbing helmets Regulars 30 The lure of the hills By Marian Wallis 11 Crossword Competition 66 Coping with Covid 54 Club Support Meeting Ruth Whelan reports By Claire Griffin 56 Access & Conservation Features Helen Lawless reports Clare O’Leary 58 Training 32 Kicking with both feet: Jane Carney reports 2020 LYNAM MEDAL RECIPIENT walking the Ulster Way 60 Books 12 By Gerdette Rooney Reviews of recent books Photographs: Michael O’Donoghue (Knockaunapeebra), Clare O’Leary Collection (Clare O’Leary), National Famine Museum/OSi (Famine Famine National O’Leary), (Clare Collection O’Leary Clare (Knockaunapeebra), Michael O’Donoghue Photographs: 4 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected] Newsdesk Staff Chief executive Officer Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] Hillwalking Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] access & Conservation Officer Helen Lawless, [email protected] Women in Sport Coordinator Ania Bakiewicz, [email protected] training Officer Jane Carney, [email protected] training & Membership Support administrator Laura Griffin, [email protected] Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Covid-19 advice Youth Development Officer for Our latest advice for hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] ● Transport is in household pods only Get irelanD WalkinG initiative ● People travel directly to and from their Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking chosen location for exercise Jason King, [email protected] ● Communications & administrative Officer, Safe hygiene practices are maintained. Get ireland Walking At the time of writing, the Republic of Mountaineering Ireland’s Chief Linda Sankey, [email protected] Ireland is at Level 5 and Northern Ireland is Executive Officer, Murrough McDonagh, also at a high level of Covid-19 restrictions. noted: “Those involved in outdoor MOuntaineerinG irelanD However, this will certainly be changing in BOarD OffiCerS recreation activities recognise the President one or both jurisdictions in the run up to considerable health and psychological Paul Kellagher Christmas. In the Republic, in light of benefits for people of having access to [email protected] improving data on Covid-19 infections, the outdoors, particularly in the current Chairperson hospitalisations and deaths, a relaxation in situation, providing it is done in a safe and Paul Barron restrictions may be on the cards for the responsible way. Our members have raised [email protected] Christmas period. While the restrictions may be relaxed, everyone will still be well their concerns about not having access to BOarD MeMBerS advised to continue to follow the public venues for hillwalking and climbing during Imelda Buckley health guidance on respiratory and hand the lockdown. (Chair of Finance, Audit & Risk Committee) hygiene, the wearing of face masks, “When they are carried out in a safe [email protected] maintaining a social distance from other and responsible way, outdoor recreation David Pollard people, and limiting social contacts. activities within single households do not (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) [email protected] In light of data that shows that the appear to cause increased transmission of Trish Kane spread of Covid-19 is much less likely in Covid-19. We have requested the support [email protected] the outdoors (see page 9), Mountaineering of Sport Ireland, and asked the Colette Mahon Ireland has lobbied at national level to government at national level, to make [email protected] open access to the outdoors, even during changes in Levels 3, 4, and 5 of the current Michael Maunsell the restrictions. Mountaineering Ireland plan, to allow access for recreation [email protected] requested that the government consider beyond 5km from home and beyond the following in its review of the current Gráinne McLaughlin county boundaries. Under the Level 5 (Chair of Hillwalking Committee) restrictions: restrictions in the Republic, we saw large [email protected] ● Allow access to the outdoors for Clare O’Connor numbers of people converging on the very [email protected] physical activity and wellbeing to be limited public spaces within Co Dublin. Dawson Stelfox included in Levels 3, 4 and 5 of the Allowing people to responsibly engage in (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) ‘Plan for Living with Covid-19.’ physical activity and wellbeing in the [email protected] ● Allow people to travel for physical outdoors, in locations with far fewer Geoff Thomas activity and wellbeing beyond the 5km people present, would appear to be a safer (Chair of Climbing Committee) and county boundary restrictions once approach moving forward. What we are [email protected] the following conditions are adhered asking is that the Plan for Living with Noel Caffrey to: Covid-19 be adapted to allow people [email protected] ● Social distancing of two metres is enjoy the outdoors in a meaningful and maintained responsible way” ■ Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 5 NEWSL0G

Participants practicing navigation on a walk in the during European Week of Sport European Week of Sport: what a week it was!

Mountaineering Ireland marked European Week of Sport (September 23-30th 2020) with Women in Sport events – women hillwalking, women rock climbing and women trail running

By Ania Bakiewicz, beauty and solitude, Rescue Association, led a pouring rain across the island of Women in Sport Coordinator showcasing a variety of local group through the Galtee Ireland. I set off with my group hidden gems. The programme , introducing them to Glendasan in search of dry This year, Mountaineering spanned the whole week, with to navigation, using a map rock. With crash pads, climbing Ireland and Women in Sport female instructors providing and compass. shoes and huge enthusiasm, celebrated European Week skill sessions to female In the , we explored the boulders there. of Sport with activities for participants. The activities Helen Lawless, Mountaineering Unexpectedly, the sun came women on hills and crags were pitched at an entry level, Ireland’s Access and out and allowed us to climb. across the island of Ireland. encouraging women of all Conservation Officer, unlocked The group learned different And what a week it was! abilities to enjoy the stunning the secrets of the heritage sites foot placement techniques, The activities were funded mountains with their families along St Kevin’s Way, climbing higher and getting by Sport Ireland’s Women in and friends. showcasing the fauna and flora more confidence with every Sport initiative and around Mountain problem. Mountaineering Ireland, Day 1 and generating interest in next In Altnadue Quarry, Co Down, partnered up with Sport We kicked off the activities year’s Women With Altitude Kath Maguire, an Outdoor Ireland Outdoors, Local Sports with two mountain walks in event. Instructor, ran a rock climbing Partnerships and Get Ireland ideal weather conditions on session with only one Walking to organise them. Wednesday, September 23rd. Day 2 participant, but what a climber The selected venues Maureen O’Brien, a member of Thursday brought an abrupt she was! Susanna Gaynor did balanced accessibility with the South Eastern Mountain change in the weather, with not mind the rain and could

On the environmental walk in Wicklow in Meelmore, in the Mournes Susanna Gaynor in Altnadue Quarry

6 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 not get enough of climbing and the Iron Age Rathcoran hill fort. abseiling. She immediately In the afternoon, Joanna joined the Feel Good Factor McInerney, Mountain Leader, Club. led a group on an In Mayo, Georgia MacMillan, environmental walk through a Mountain Leader, took her the Slieve Carran Nature group at night to the Dark Mayo Reserve in , Co Clare. Sky Park in the Nephins. Conditions were not ideal for Day 5 stargazing, but it was very On Sunday, Ireland celebrated exciting exploring the National Walking Day, mountains at night. organised by Get Ireland Walking in partnership with Day 3 Mountaineering Ireland. Many The weather was mixed on hillwalking clubs and Friday. Rozzy Skuce, a Duke of independent walkers explored Edinburgh Provider, led a group their local areas. Rock climbing in Quarry along a scenic route between Glenshane and Mullaghmore in Day 6 conditions. Claire led an with ages ranging from 20 to 57 the Sperrins. She demonstrated The rain returned on Monday amazing walk along the years. The sessions tested their navigation with a compass and morning. In Altnadue Quarry, Annalong River in the Mournes, mental and physical skills. map, introduced the women to Claire Hardy, Rock Climbing teaching navigation in the fog. These events could not have Leave No Trace principles and Instructor, ran a climbing Jane Carney led another gone ahead without all the pointed out the flora and session, teaching body climbing session in Dalkey instructors involved in the fauna. movement, abseiling and rope during a well-timed weather planning and execution of the Michelle Hughes, an skills. abseiling), Ania Bakiewicz (rockclimbing in Dalkey) (rockclimbing Ania Bakiewicz abseiling), window. The women programme, their knowledge of International Mountain Leader, In the Galtees, Maureen challenged themselves to the local areas, and their skills led a navigation course around O’Brien taught navigation skills harder and longer climbs and and experience. They were role the slopes of . on and off trails. enjoyed abseiling. models for the participating In the Knockmealdowns, In the European Week of Sport women, and their energy and Maureen O’Brien outlined the Mountains, Co , Miriam finished with a great running passion for the mountains left emergency procedures that a Cunningham, a running coach, session in the Glengarriff a huge imprint on the hillwalker should know about. introduced a group to Nature Reserve in west Cork, participants. Back in the Mournes, Kath mountain trail running, leading led by Tamela Maciel and The feedback was positive Maguire led a scenic walk from them up to the magnificent Kristen O’Sullivan from the and everyone agreed that they Slievenaglough to Slieve tomb of the legendary Queen Cork and Kerry Runners. had had an exhilarating and Commedagh, uncovering the Maeve. Despite September’s educational week that had natural beauty of the place. temperamental weather and pushed them out of their That night, the skies in the Day 7 the disruption caused by comfort zones. Many Dark Mayo Sky Park were clear, On Tuesday, the weather was partial lockdowns in Northern participants expressed interest allowing Georgia MacMillan to again in our favour. Up north, Ireland, Dublin and Donegal, in signing up for the Mountain explain the secrets of the Rozzy Skuce ran another Women in Sport’s European Skills and Rock Skills courses, September star constellations interesting navigation walk in Week of Sport events went and staying in contact with the over the Mountains. the beautiful Sperrin ahead. One hundred and forty instructors. Mountains. women successfully took part The positive feedback from Day 4 Claire Hardy took a group of in twenty-four skill sessions the participants and the skills Saturday morning was clear enthusiastic women climbing delivered by fifteen female providers showed that there is and bright. In Connemara, on Meelmore Boulders in the providers in nineteen different a high level of demand among Michelle Casey, Mountain Mournes, teaching footwork locations across twelve women for mountain skills Leader, led a walk around and body movement on the counties. The participants courses delivered by female and , rock. included Irish, English, Polish, instructors and for more events teaching the group the In , Dublin, ■ techniques of landscape Jane Carney, Mountaineering Latvian and Brazilian women, of this type photography. Ireland’s Training Officer, Meanwhile in the Comeraghs, introduced a group to AUTHOR: Ania Bakiewicz is Colette Mahon, Mountain . It was Mountaineering Ireland’s Women in Leader, took a group walking fantastic to see women at Sport Coordinator. and scrambling around different skill levels having a Coumshingaun. great time teaching each other FIND OUT MORE: To find out more about Women In Sport, visit the Back in Wicklow, I led a group how to tie in and lead climbing. website of archaeology enthusiasts to www.mountaineering.ie/programmes. the top of Baltinglass Hill to Day 8 explore the Neolithic tomb and Wednesday brought stormy Photos: Rozzie Skuce (Sperrins walk), Egija Eilande (environmental walk), Teresa Brennan (boulldering), Kath Maghuire (Susanna (Susanna Maghuire Kath (boulldering), Brennan Teresa walk), Egija Eilande (environmental walk), Skuce (Sperrins Rozzie Photos: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 7 NEWSL0G Irish Peaks: the perfect Christmas present Order online now at www.irishpeaks.ie

“Irish Peaks is a genuine landmark in Irish mountain engagement with Ireland’s mountains, an engagement that is based on understanding and respect. publishing.” – Peter Walker, MountainViews Irish Peaks is just what you or your hillwalking friends need, if you are planning a hillwalking holiday in Ireland in 2021. Mountaineering Ireland members get a 10% discount on the recommended retail price of €29.95. This means you pay €26.95 (plus postage and packaging charges). Order your copy now from www.irishpeaks.ie. Note: You can order up to eight books in a single shipment and only pay the delivery charge for one book. This is exclusive to orders to be delivered on the island of Ireland. Key features ◆ 256-page hardcover guidebook, featuring 71 hillwalking routes across the island of Ireland ◆ Routes submitted by Mountaineering Ireland members, many from local clubs ◆ Illustrated with inspiring photographs and a map for each Mountaineering Ireland’s new Irish Peaks guide celebrates route Ireland’s highest mountains through an inspiring collection of seventy-one hillwalking routes, contributed by Mountaineering ◆ Substantial introduction to Ireland’s mountain environment Ireland members. These beautifully illustrated routes will ◆ Includes advice on access and safety in the mountains ■ encourage the reader to visit all of Ireland’s main mountain areas. Irish Peaks has been published by Mountaineering Ireland as a tribute to the late , who edited the original Irish “Irish Peaks is a really attractive guide that makes the most Peaks book, published in 1982. One of Mountaineering Ireland’s of its large format, and more to the point makes you want to aims in producing this book is to promote responsible go and climb the hills.” – Dan Bailey, UK Hillwalking Outdoor sports and Covid-19

Outdoor sports are a low risk for spread of Covid-19, according to the UIAA

The Medical Commission of the UIAA (the mask use, where appropriate, when close linked to the practice of mountain International Climbing and contact is unavoidable. sports (such as use of public transport Mountaineering Federation) has The paper is the result of a or carpooling to get to mountain areas contributed to a new paper, “SARS-CoV-2, collaboration between international or staying in mountain huts), present Covid-19 and mountain sports: specific scientists and mountaineers from risks for SARS-CoV-2 infections. These risks, their mitigation and Scotland and other parts of the UK, risks can be mitigated by avoiding high- recommendations for policy makers.” Germany, Switzerland and the USA. risk situations and taking commonsense The draft paper has just been released. The authors report that searches of the measures such as practicing good It is one of the first dedicated to Covid-19 internet and the medical literature, and hygiene, appropriate use of face masks and outdoor and mountain sports. It has consultation with mountaineering and, above all, maintaining social not been finalised or peer-reviewed yet, associations, have revealed minimal distancing as much as possible ■ but given the immediacy and global evidence for transmission of SARS-CoV-2 prevalence of Covid-19 the authors during participation in outdoor mountain agreed to make their findings available sports. This is consistent with published online. evidence showing that, in general, The paper strongly supports the view outdoor-acquired SARS-CoV-2 infections that outdoor sports, including are rare. They conclude that the risk of mountaineering, are low-risk for the contracting SARS-CoV-2 infection during spread of Covid-19, providing that basic outdoor mountain sport activities is low. precautions are adhered to, including They emphasise, however, that some social distancing, hand hygiene and face- situations indoors or in confined spaces, 8 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Notice of 2021 Mountaineering Ireland AGM The 2021 Annual General Motions and nominations Meeting (AGM) of Mountaineering Ireland clubs and individual members are Mountaineering Ireland invited to put forward motions for discussion at the AGM, and will take place at 7.00pm also to nominate members for positions on the Board of on Monday, March 29th, Mountaineering Ireland. 2021, at Irish Sport HQ, National Sport Campus, Motions and nominations may be submitted by any member Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, or via a virtual meeting club or by any three full members. platform, if necessary (exact details to be confirmed Board members are elected for a three-year term. later). Motions and nominations must be submitted by email to The time frame for the AGM is as follows: Mountaineering Ireland’s Company Secretary at [email protected] or by post to Company ● 6.00pm Meeting of Honorary and Secretary, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ, National Individual Members Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, to arrive not later ● 6.30-7.00pm Registration for Mountaineering than 5.00pm on Friday, February 26th, 2021. Ireland AGM ● 7.00pm Mountaineering Ireland AGM Mountaineering Ireland will advise members about the exact details of the AGM in the weeks leading up to the event ■ Honorary membership awarded Terry O’Connor has been awarded honorary membership of Mountaineering Ireland

large part in the delivery of the Irish which since its inception has provided Mountaineering Club’s beginners’ course innumerable young climbers the for several years. Through much of the opportunity to experience, enjoy and 1990s, Terry was part of the team that put excel in climbing. Ultimately, Terry’s talent in a huge amount of work organising and as a coach led him to taking on the role of running the very popular Irish Bouldering coach of the Youth Climbing Team. League. On behalf of our members, As his son Daragh became more Mountaineering Ireland would like to take interested in climbing, Terry’s focus this opportunity to thank Terry for all his shifted towards the promotion and dedication over the years to helping so development of youth climbing. Terry many people develop their passion for all established the Winders Climbing Club, things climbing ■

Terry O’Connor

Mountaineering Ireland is delighted to announce the awarding of Honorary Membership to Terry O’Connor, former coach of the Irish Youth Climbing Team. Terry has played a huge role in the promotion and development of climbing in Ireland for over thirty years. His contribution to Irish climbing is incredibly far-reaching, encompassing aspects of our sport from Himalayan expeditions to local indoor bouldering competitions. For the 1998 Irish Expedition to , Terry accepted the role of Base Camp Manager As a club member, Terry played a Terry enjoying some bouldering in Fontainebleau, France Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 9 NEWSLOG Tips on holding club meetings online

Many clubs are interested in holding a virtual AGM or other meetings. Here’s how to go about it Virtual meetings can be delivered just the Running your virtual AGM ■ Whichever option you choose, carry out same as face-to-face meetings, but there ■ Record the meeting. This will help to a test with the audience at the start of are a few things to consider in advance the meeting to make sure everyone is ensure transparency and will help the when planning to deliver virtually. Here are clear on how to vote. Secretary write an account of the meeting some top tips for delivering your AGM or afterwards. Make sure at the beginning of ■ Set a time limit in advance as to how other meetings online. the meeting that all attendees are aware long each attendee has to vote, e.g. 60 or The benefits of meeting online the meeting is being recorded. 90 seconds. ■ ■ It’s an opportunity for club Identify who will be hosting the Communication meeting. The host should be a different representatives to have their say and to ■ Keep communication clear by engage in progressing the direction of the person to the one chairing the meeting. The host will manage the muting of introducing speakers and asking members club when face-to-face meetings may not to state their name when asking a be possible. participants, the ‘raise your hand’ if you want to ask a question function, the question. ■ It’s an opportunity to connect with club voting functions and counting of votes. ■ At the start of the meeting, identify the members who may not feel comfortable rules of behaviour, or how attendees can ■ Depending on the size of the meeting, meeting in person or going on club walks engage during the meeting. you could have a co-host to assist in at the moment. ■ Make it clear that all participants will be taking the minutes as well as managing muted and there will be a system to ask ■ Meetings can be recorded. This will any questions or the chat box, etc. questions, when you will be unmuted. allow you to go back and understand ■ The chat option may be removed, Some platforms have a “hand up” decisions that were made. It also gives depending on what way you want to function. If possible, this should be used. those who couldn’t attend the meeting an manage interaction with attendees. opportunity to watch back later. Your platform options ■ Although questions can be asked There are a range of platform options to Prior to the meeting... during an AGM, they should be related choose from, depending on the size of There are a few important things to think specifically to items on the agenda. your club. Here are three: about, even if your club has been using ■ Larger clubs may opt for premium this technology for some time: functions: for example, a Zoom webinar ■ Zoom ■ Discuss the options of a virtual AGM offers options to conduct polls or votes. – Free with up to 100 delegates with your committee and find out which An explanation of how to use these – Automatically ends after 40 minutes platform best suits your club’s needs. functions should be set out at the start. It – Paid options allow unlimited time for meetings ■ Make sure everyone you are planning to may also be useful to share a PowerPoint – Recording options available have involved in the running of the slide showing the rules as people are joining the meeting. – Available on various devices meeting is comfortable with going online. – Screen-sharing and presenting options ■ The Chairperson should take a roll call ■ Do a few trial runs ahead of time. Make – Chat options of those virtually present at the meeting, sure to identify potential problems such – Functions such as Zoom webinar and confirm a quorum. as if the internet signal goes down, or (with more functions for voting). people are not able to access it properly. ■ To make sure things run smoothly, have Have a plan to deal with these issues. one person (the host) assigned to sharing ■ Microsoft Teams the presentation and any documentation – Up to 50 users on a call ■ An AGM should be run in accordance as directed by the Chair (such as the – Recording options available with the club’s constitution, especially in Chairperson’s report, Treasurer’s report, – Available on various devices terms of providing due notice to members nominated committee members, – Screen-sharing and presenting options and providing papers and a request for proposed changes to the constitution, – Group and private messaging possible. motions and nominations. etc). ■ The committee, particularly the ■ Google Hangouts Chairperson and Secretary, should plan in Voting options – Maximum of 150 users on a call advance how the meeting will run and There are many ways to manage voting, (10 on a video call) who will be responsible for different depending on the functions you have – Available on numerous devices functions – the same as for a face-to-face available: – Screenshare available meeting but with different roles. ■ You can use the ‘raise your hand’ – Call recording available function to confirm (or reject) a Yes vote – Your need a Google account to ■ Ask members to confirm attendance or other proposal, similar to what you organise a Google Hangouts meeting ahead of time. This will also be an would do in a face-to-face meeting. – Options of platforms depending on opportunity to find out what questions the size of your club. they might want to raise at the AGM. And ■ You can use the chat box for each it will give those who might be shy about individual to confirm their vote. Or you ➤ For more information on how to run an speaking online an opportunity to raise could use a paid-for function to conduct AGM and what should be covered, see our their questions in advance. a voting poll. Club Handbook at www.bit.ly/3nCZdEr ■ Photograph: Gtitit WMIL Gtitit Photograph: 10 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Crossword Basecamp Christmas Competition

Win a great double-prize from Basecamp if your correct completed entry is the first drawn from the hat!

1 2 3 4 5 Clues Across 1 Strong winds (5). 3 Very thin gap in rock formation used by climbers to find purchase on rock faces (5). 6 7 6 Nationality of peaks such as Pike (7). 7 Long, snake-like fish found in Irish waters (3). 8 Very strong wire to carry gondola to ski slope (5). 10 Watery discharge from nose or eyes (5). 12 Not off (2). 8 9 10 11 13 In short, South Africa (1,1). 14 Longest continental mountain range in the world (5). 12 13 17 Famous Antarctic explorer from Annascaul (5). 18 Mourne mountain, sounds like poultry (3). 14 15 16 17 19 Land of the free, home of the brave (7). 20 Crevices, often associated with crannies (5).

LOCHLAINN 21 Transmits and receives broadcasts (5). Clues Down

CÓILÍN M ac 18 19

by 1 Strenuous horseshoe hillwalk in the Twelve Bens (11). 2 An English county (5). 3 Ireland’s third highest peak, located in the Reeks (5). compiled 4 Very narrow ridge separating two valleys (5). 20 21 5 Highest mountain on African continent (11). 9 Female found in bannister (3). CROSSWORD CROSSWORD 11 is this country’s highest peak (1,1,1). 15 Australian wild dog (5). 16 Coverings to protect shoes from wet while walking (5) 17 Cape island in very south-west of Ireland (5). WIN Two baselayers (men’s or women’s) – Oasis Icebreaker top (€89.95) and Oasis leggings (€79.95) – together worth €169.90

Icebreaker Men’s 200 Oasis Long Sleeve Crewe Top plus Men’s Icebreaker Oasis Leggings Icebreaker Women’s 200 Oasis Crewe Top plus Women’s Icebreaker Oasis Leggings How to enter Complete this crossword correctly and be in with a chance to win a prize worth €169.90 from Basecamp Outdoor Store, Jervis Street, Dublin.

Cut out this page, or photocopy or scan it, and send your completed entry to The Editor, Irish Mountain Log, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ, National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, or by email to [email protected], to arrive not later than Friday, January 29th, 2021. Don’t forget to include your full name, address and membership number with your entry as well as a telephone number or email address at where you can be contacted. The winner will be announced in the Spring 2021 issue of the Irish Mountain Log.

Basecamp Outdoor Store, Dublin Competition prizes Website: www.basecamp.ie Basecamp’s generous prize comprises a set of men’s or women’s Icebreaker Oasis Crewe baselayers (top and leggings), a prize worth €169.90.

# Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 11 NEWSL0G 2020 Lynam Medal

Dr Clare O’Leary, the renowned Irish mountaineer and adventurer, was presented with the 2020 Lynam Medal in October 2020 by Mike Maunsell, Chair of Mountaineering Ireland’s Lynam Lecture Working Group, in Clonmel, Co Tipperary, where she lives.

to the Greater Ranges and an outstanding voluntary contribution to the development of adventure sports in Ireland. Joss was known to many Irish and international walking enthusiasts for his hillwalking guidebooks. He was also the Editor of the Irish Mountain Log magazine for almost 20 years. Joss continued as the Literary Mike Maunsell presents Clare O’Leary with the 2020 Lynam Medal By Patrick O’Sullivan Editor of the magazine up to the time of his death. from Bandon, Co Cork. She had to turn back between The Mountaineering Ireland Since it was inaugurated in trained in UCC as a medical Camps 2 and 3 because of Lynam Lecture was 2011, the Mountaineering doctor and now practices as a a stomach upset, or inaugurated in 2011 in memory Ireland Lynam Lecture has consultant gastroenterologist gastroenteritis, as she might of Joss Lynam (1924-2011), one been delivered by leading and general physician in the say! of Ireland’s best-known national and international South Tipperary General Clare returned in 2004 with mountaineers, in recognition mountaineers: 2011, Harish Hospital in Clonmel. Despite the Irish Wyeth Everest of his enormous Kapadia; 2012, Dawson Stelfox; her busy career, she has still Expedition, when she achievements in hillwalking, 2013, Stephen Venables; 2014, managed to take time out to succeeded in climbing Mount climbing and mountaineering Clare Sheridan; 2015, Ines go on various expeditions Everest via the South Col route in Ireland and overseas over Papert; 2016, Paul Swail and around the world since her with Pat Falvey, Pemba Gyalje, some sixty years. During his John McCune; 2017, Frank success on Everest. and four other Sherpas. Prior to lifetime, Joss initiated Nugent; 2018, Paddy O’Leary; that success, she had already numerous developments in and 2019, Sir Chris Bonington. Everest attempts climbed Kilimanjaro, these different areas of our All of these have been inspiring Her first attempt at Everest , Mount Cook and sport and was an inspiration lectures that have reflected on was in 2003, when, ironically Island Peak to see how she to a number of generations of the development of various for a gastroenterologist, she reacted to altitude and to hone Irish mountaineers. aspects of our sport and how it Joss Lynam’s achievements might progress in coming years. included participating in many In light of the ongoing mountaineering expeditions restrictions as a result of the Covid-19 pandemic, it was decided that it would not be possible to organise a formal presentation for this year’s Lynam Lecture and that the 2020 Lynam Medal should be awarded to Dr Clare O’Leary on merit alone. The first Irish woman to summit on Everest (8,848m) in 2004, and the first to climb an 8,000m peak, Clare has continued to push the boundaries ever since then of what has been achieved by Irish mountaineers. Joss Lynam in 2005 Clare O’Leary is originally Clare O’Leary on the Khumbu Glacier below Photographs: Mike Maunsell Collection (medal, and medal presentation), Irish Everest Team 2004 (Clare on Khumbu Glacier) 2004 (Clare Team Irish Everest and medal presentation), (medal, Maunsell Collection Mike Photographs: 12 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Photographs: Irish Everest Team 2004 (Everest photo), Mike O’Shea ( Expedition), Valerie O’Connor (Clare at work), The Southern Star (Clare with honorary degree) Winter 2020 Clare O’Leary on the way to the SouthPole iconic peak near Everest in the to climbAmaDablam, became the first Irishwoman that time. In2006, she the Seven Summitslists by had completed oneor other of twenty women worldwide that That puther among the Aconcagua and climbed Kilimanjaro, that year, having already finished withMount Vinson Elbrus and continent. SheclimbedDenali, highest mountain oneach the , first Irishwoman to complete 2005, Clare went on to be the After climbingEverest, in The Seven Summits headaches onsummitdays. from perhapsdeveloping mild problems at altitude, apart experienced any serious skills. Ingeneral, shehasnot her high-altitudeclimbing Clare looking towards the Hillary Step and the summitof Everest Kosciuszko, and Everest the an itself. in Seven Summitsandreach second woman to climb the would have beenonly the O’Shea. with fellow adventurer Mike fourth attempt was in2014 have allbeen thwarted. Her the NorthPole constant snowstorms. sub-zero temperaturesand conditions on the planet, with gear insome of the harshest expedition, haulingallof their the two-month-long The team of four undertook Davies together withJonathan Endurance Expedition, Pat Falvey Pole. ski towoman the to five, Clare became the first next year, at the age of thirty- the ice-cap. Solu KhumbuinNepal. Clare’s attempts to reach In 2007, Clare skiedacross She went there with and If successful, Clare on hisBeyond Shaun Menzies. unfortunately South The of her medalinOctober by Ireland Lynam Medal. the 2020Mountaineering exploration by awarding her in mountaineering and to the participation of women contribution to our sportand Ireland isnow recognising her Galway. Mountaineering doctorate inlaw by NUI was awarded anhonorary variously inIreland andshe have been recognised O’Leary’s endeavours already of achievements, Clare world’s remote places. continuingexplore to the mountaineering asaway of saysski has turnedto thatshe a week by runningor cycling, who still trains five or sixdays climbing inPeru. passes, andlast year shewas thirteen highmountain in Bhutan, 350kmover did the (6,500m) inNepal. In2018, she (7,129m) andMera Peak year, Clare climbedBaruntse in Tibet.followingfinishing The 2,500km throughChina, the project. and they have had to abandon impacted by climate change However, this hasalsobeen and Lake Baikal Northern Patagonian ice-field Greenland ice-sheet, has includedcrossings of the world’s major ice-caps. This make crossings of allof the in which they intended to they called the IceProject series of expeditions which O’Shea begananongoing called off, Clare andMike get to the NorthPole was emergency. land on the iceinan it isimpossiblefor planes to insurance isunaffordable and as the new ice isunstable, almost impossible to ski there, , ithasbecome melting of the oldiceat the climate change and the both poles. Since2014, with Followingpresentation the With suchanimpressive list Lookingfuture, to the Clare, In 2016, they cycled After their 2012attempt to Lunana Snowman in Siberia. the trek and Clare O’Leary at work doctorate inlaw from NUIGalway Clare onreceiving anhonorary 2020 Lynam Medal” Ireland for awarding me the Thank youMountaineering to to allof them for their support. family andfriends. Iamgrateful training partners, mentors, support at homeof great a team andIalways had the expeditions, Iworked as part of presented. Oneachof these lovedchallenges they the mentally tough, butIalways have often beenphysically and the past number of years. These over the world onexpeditions in been lucky enough to travel all Mountaineering Ireland. Ihave prestigious award from honour to receive sucha Clare said, “It isa very great Lynam Lecture Working Group, Mike Maunsell, Irish Mountain Log Chair of the ■ 13 NEWSL0G National Walking Jason Byrne Day a great success An estimated 700,000 people took part in National Walking Day on September 27th

By Linda Sankey, 220,000 people watching the Get Ireland Walking show. Partners, stakeholders, other National Governing We would expect many Local Sports Partnerships Bodies and Local Sports The first National Walking Day people not to engage with the and groups affiliated with Get Partnerships, to use in their in Ireland took place on hashtags – older adults, for Ireland Walking and efforts to communicate Sunday, September 27th, 2020, example – which would Mountaineering Ireland were effectively with their target as part of the European Week suggest that the numbers all invited and encouraged to populations. of Sport. An estimated actually participating on the participate in National Comedian Jason Byrne, 700,000 people took part in day may have been much Walking Day. They all engaged Dublin footballer and All- the day. That was estimated higher than that stated above. in various ways and shared Ireland winner Kevin through the hashtags that Furthermore, schools were our message and campaign McManamon, and camogie were posted on social media also invited to participate across their platforms and All-Ireland winner and player on the day. throughout European Week of membership. A case study is Niamh Kilkenny all featured now underway to highlight in professional videos to the success of the campaign promote the day, nationally and the impact encouraging people to Katrina McGirr that it had through using #WalkYourArea and creative, paid social media #WalkYourTown, and find advertisements, which were #HiddenGems. Jason even viewed over 4,700,000 times advised people to bring their throughout the campaign. grannies with them! Other indications of the We also had professional initiative’s success included videos of Charlie Burke from the traffic flow to our Coillte, Katrina McGirr from website, with close to 50,000 and Ruth hits, which also Whelan from Mountaineering We were trending in Ireland Sport and more than 800 demonstrated the success of Ireland, shot in Coillte and on Twitter most of the day and primary schools registered the campaign. Waterways Ireland amenities, had a phenomenal response to with Get Ireland Walking for We aim to use the case asking walkers to be the feature on RTÉ I’s that week, which would study as a model for responsible outdoors and to Nationwide programme about represent over 200,000 contemporary be considerate! National Walking Day on the children who engaged in communication with our For more about this evening of Wednesday, activities, including walking, market but also to act as a initiative check out September 23rd, with over that week. toolkit for partners, including www.getirelandwalking.ie ■

Kevin McManamon Niamh Kilkenny Photographs: Get Ireland Walking Ireland Get Photographs: 14 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Photographs: Get Ireland Walking regularly! end of the 21days, you willdefinitely want to continue to walk restrictions! You caneasily walk in your area or town and, by the Challenge, Get Ireland Walking hasdeveloped aneasy 21-Day Walking fit andfor your own well-being? not try something easier andcloser to home, to help you keep and crags now, unless you are very lucky where you live –so why So you might not beable to get outandgo to your favourite hills Take our 21-Day Walking Challenge Winter 2020 ● ● ● ● ● Your excuses, our advice Get Ireland Walking hasanincentive to help you make walking partof your daily routine

notice the difference in your energy levels for the day. Walking willactually give you more energy. could beearly in the day. Try fittinginawalk when you feel most energetic stickroutine. to the friends know about your plansandask them to help you to opportunity to meet afriendandcatch up. Let family and Try to fitwalking into your daily routine needed to traveltime ora venue to prepare. to Just go out the door andstart walking will help to maintain your health. onlyIt takes thirtyminutes which isperfect timing right now, given the current of your time to doawalk that – there isnoextra or use itasan Try itoutand – this ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

organisations for You couldalsocheck out the healthpromotion Talk to yourdoctor Walking regularly canhelp It isnever too late Walking isoneof the easiest ways to get active. Over time, You canset your own pace Set a target you cangradually increase advice on your illnessandwalking. and delivered by Mountaineering Ireland. supported by Healthy Ireland andhosted Walking Officer withGet Ireland Walking. [email protected]. (01) 6251109 www.getirelandwalking.ie, Ireland Walking,website visitthe FIND OUT MORE: AUTHOR: to start walking. about getting active at your next visit. is aninitiative of SportIreland, Linda Sankey to maintain your physical health. and the lengthof your walk. or emailLinda Sankey at To findoutmore about Get Irish Mountain Log both of these. is Communications contact uson Get Ireland 15 NEWSL0G

“Visitors can leave their ‘Stamp’ on the National Famine Way, a new 165km trail in Ireland that doubles as a history lesson ... connecting cyclists and walkers with Ireland’s emigrant past.” – Condé Nast Traveller National Famine Way launched Historic 165km trail follows in emigrants’ footsteps during the Famine

By Charlotte O’Connor, with signposting and Park, 12-year-old Daniel Communications Officer, trailheads along the route. Tighe, who remarkably Irish Heritage Trust The new 14-page National survived the horrific journey Famine Way Passport & to Canada on one of the A new interactive outdoor Guide (together with the OSi worst Famine ships. The route experience, the National map) highlights local of the National Famine Way is Famine Way, was launched in historical landmarks and marked by bronze sculptures Bronze shoes mark each stage September, together with a allows walkers and cyclists to of a pair of children’s shoes along the route ‘passport’ and an OSi map of record their progress with 27 (see photo). These evocative the route. The National Famine Stage Stamps along the shoes symbolise the hopeful The Passport & Guide Way is an accredited 165km specially developed route. journey that the 1,490 explains the historical and Heritage and Arts Trail from The new Passport & Guide emigrants embarked on, cultural landmarks along the Strokestown Park, Co is centred around the journey especially taking in the fact route, broken down into Roscommon, through six of one of the original Famine that two-thirds of them were distinct sections, from 1km to counties to Dublin, mostly walkers from Strokestown children. 15km, through Roscommon, following the . Longford, Westmeath, Meath, A completion certificate is Kildare and Fingal and finally awarded at the end of the trail ending in Dublin city centre. at EPIC, The Irish Emigration Caroilin Callery of the Museum, where the Famine National Famine Museum replica ship, the Jeanie and the Irish Heritage Trust, Johnston, is located. which cares for the property, The trail, which goes along commented: “As walkers flat and well-surfaced paths, experience the natural details the ill-fated journey of beauty of the National 1,490 emigrants, who walked Famine Way Heritage Trail, from Strokestown Park to the Passport & Guide and OSi ships in Dublin in 1847, at the map incentivises them to height of the Famine. With its explore lesser-known captivating layers of history sections by slowly unfolding and culture, the trail is the rich local history wrapped designed to be accessible to in the journey of the Famine families, schools, casual emigrants. walkers and cyclists, through “They will also be reminded to Famine and history of our history through a mix enthusiasts. of evocative storytelling, It offers a safe, recreational song, art installations and option available 365 days a cultural centres along the year, in a self-guided format Walkers by the Royal Canal on the National Famine Way route. The Passport & Guide Photographs: National Famine Museum Famine National Photographs: 16 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 brings the historical journey of the 1,490 Famine emigrants alive by allowing walkers to follow in their footsteps 173 years later.” Describing what walkers and families are likely to experience, John O’Driscoll, general manager of the National Famine Museum at Strokestown Park, said: “We look forward to welcoming official walkers, starting from the National Famine Museum, where they can get a real understanding of the Famine. The official Passport & Guide includes a 10% discount on the entrance fee for the National Famine Museum, as well as the Jeanie Johnston replica Famine ship at EPIC, The Irish Emigration Museum, OSi has produced a trail map for each county along the route: this is the one for Westmeath and other museums along the route.” Museum, Waterways Ireland developed and will be ➤ For more information see The National Famine Way is and county councils along launched in the coming www.nationalfamineway.ie and an integrated collaboration the route. A National Famine months. www.strokestownpark.ie ■ between the National Famine Way App is currently being ‘Happy Hiking’ campaign announced New Mountaineering Ireland initiative distributes advice to walkers on how to stay safe

initiated by Mountaineering Happy Hiking material will be a free scanner app. You will be Ireland’s Hillwalking useful resource for all and will brought directly to the Committee, originally with the include advice on planning your Hillwalking section of the intention of refreshing and walk, what to bring with you, Mountaineering Ireland website. updating the Walk Safely getting a weather forecast, Here, you will find the Happy leaflet, which had gone out of who to call in an emergency, Hiking leaflet in a digital format, print. Since that leaflet was and so on. along with lots of other useful issued, however, how we As well as distributing leaflets information on hillwalking. communicate and circulate to tourist offices, clubs, Rural ➤ The Happy Hiking leaflet will information has changed, Recreation Officers and other be a valuable resource for clubs particularly since the start of relevant bodies, we are also to share with new or potential the Covid-19 pandemic. It is making the leaflet available members. If you are interested in now very important to utilise digitally on the Mountaineering receiving some Happy Hiking the different platforms Ireland website, leaflets and/or information in a available to reach the right www.mountaineering.ie. digital format for your club’s audiences. It will be accompanied by website or Facebook page, or if Happy Hiking is aimed at all digital promotional tools, which you know of other organisations users of trails and uplands, but will be shared widely across who you think might be particularly first-time users, primary tourism platforms and interested in sharing this novices and tourists. Each time through direct online By Ruth Whelan, Hillwalking material, contact Covid-19 restrictions were advertising targeting specific Development Officer [email protected] eased, there was an above- audiences. for more details. Mountaineering Ireland is normal influx of people to the QR codes have become more delighted to announce the uplands. So providing popular and are being more ➤ This project was funded by Happy Hiking campaign, an information on how to stay safe widely used this year, so we the Department of Rural and initiative to promote safe when walking in the Irish hills have incorporated a QR code Community Development walking in the Irish hills and and countryside has never on the back of the leaflet. through FORUM Connemara and countryside. This project was been more important. The Simply scan the code using a by Mountaineering Ireland ■ Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 17 NEWSL0G

Gathering sheep in the MacGillycuddy Reeks Kerry UNESCO Biosphere Reserve now active

Reeks European Innovation Project tackling spread of rhododendron

By Eleanor Turner, Kerry Areas (SPAs), Special Areas of biosphere designation does resources we have here on Biosphere Officer Conservation (SACs) and not impose further land-use our doorsteps in Kerry. proposed Natural Heritage constraints on these areas, One project that is taking Kerry is home to one of only Areas (pNHAs). Ireland’s SACs rather it supports the action within the Kerry two UNESCO-designated and SPAs form part of the EU conservation status, Biosphere area is the Biosphere Reserves in Ireland. Natura 2000 network of celebrates the area’s culture MacGillycuddy Reeks The Kerry Biosphere Reserve important ecological sites. and, on a global scale, shows European Innovation Project is located in the heart of the It is notable that the the significance of the natural (Reeks EIP). The Reeks EIP Kingdom. It was originally project aims to improve the named the Killarney National sustainability and economic Park Biosphere Reserve in viability of farming through 1982. The reserve underwent practical actions and a review process in 2017, innovative solutions to which resulted in an increase address issues and to protect in the area covered and an biodiversity in this Natura accompanying name change. 2000 area. The Kerry Biosphere Reserve, Landowners in the as it is now called, covers an MacGillycuddy Reeks face area of approximately 65,760 increasingly difficult hectares. challenges in farming this Biosphere Reserves are unique upland landscape. learning places for Encompassing over 8,000 sustainable development. hectares of Natura- They are sites for testing designated, privately-owned interdisciplinary approaches land, rising to a height of to understanding and 1,039 metres, farming in the managing changes and MacGillycuddy Reeks is interactions between social labour-intensive and and ecological systems, economically unviable. With including conflict prevention over 125,000 people visiting and management of the Reeks annually to climb biodiversity. They are places Ireland’s highest mountain, that provide local solutions to recreational use adds to the global challenges. challenges. The Kerry Biosphere Aiming to address these Reserve includes areas that issues, the Reeks EIP team is are subject to several existing working with 33 farmers in environmental designations the area. They have including Special Protection Habitat awareness training with EIP project participants developed a results-based Photographs: Valerie O’Sullivan (gathering sheep), Trisha Deane (habitat training group) training Deane (habitat Trisha sheep), (gathering O’Sullivan Valerie Photographs: 18 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 payment system that rewards farmers for maintaining or improving their upland habitats. An issue that is of great concern within both the Kerry Biosphere Reserve area and the project area for the Reeks EIP is the threat of invasive species, in particular Rhododendron ponticum. One of the innovations of the Reeks EIP project is their solution to this spreading problem. They have formed and trained a group of local farmers, who now work The Reeks EIP delivering instruction on upland wlidlife in Kilgobnet National School, Beaufort, Killarney, Co Kerry together treating rhododendron. Outreach events have been organised If you’d like to learn more ➤ Kerry UNESCO Biosphere November 5th, 2020, by to raise awareness within about how to treat Reserve, with support from Minister for Land Use and local communities and to rhododendron, watch a recent Creative Ireland and the Biodiversity, Pippa Hackett encourage people to manage community talk on our Environmental Protection TD. You can find out more on the impacts of rhododendon YouTube channel, Kerry Agency, ran an autumn event the Kerry Biosphere within the EIP area. Biosphere. series, launched on Facebook page ■ Photograph: Reeks European Innovation Project Innovation European Reeks Photograph:

New committee chair appointed David Pollard is the new Chairperson of Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Conservation Committee

By Helen Lawless, Access & Conservation Officer

David Pollard was approved by the Board of Mountaineering Ireland as the new Chairperson of Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Conservation Committee in June 2020. As Committee Chair, David also becomes a member of Mountaineering Ireland’s Board. David is a life-long hillwalker and is an active member of both Wicklow-based Club Cualann and the Hillwalking Club in Kerry. He is a former member of Cork Mountaineering Club and Galway Mountaineering Club. He has walked extensively in Ireland as well as in , Scotland, the Pyrenees, the French Alps, the Dolomites, the Jura, the High Tatras and Iceland. David joined the Access and Conservation Committee in May 2019. The role of the Access and Conservation Committee is to advise and support the Mountaineering Ireland Board and staff in working towards Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Conservation objectives: ● To promote the conservation and responsible use of David Pollard enjoying a via ferrata route in the Dolomites the mountain environment and coordinate action in conservation matters. member of the Committee. David also conveyed sincere thanks to Jack Bergin, who ● To safeguard and secure access to mountain areas. recently stepped down from the Committee after many years On behalf of the Access and Conservation Committee, David trying to keep us right on access and conservation matters. expressed thanks to Helen Donoghue for her gracious The current members of Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and leadership of the Committee for over two years, and for her Conservation Committee are: David Pollard (Chairperson), Noel deep interest in the work of the Committee, her vision and her Caffrey, Helen Donoghue, Fióna Gallagher, Ursula MacPherson, strategic approach. We are delighted to say that even though Vincent McAlinden, Áine McGirl, Orla Prendergast and Helen Helen lives abroad for much of the year, she is remaining on as a Lawless (Secretary) ■ Photograph: David Pollard Collection (David Pollard) (David Collection Pollard David Photograph: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 19 NEWSL0G

The deircs (cirques) and Guth na talún – ‘voice of the land’ Explore our whispering landscape in the Joyce Country and Western Lakes region

By Michael Hegarty, Geopark Sheoigheach agus Lochanna Rural Regeneration and Údarás na Gaeltachta, Mayo Manager, Joyce Country and an Iarthair) 2020-2021 is a Development Fund (Project County Council, Galway Western Lakes Geopark €1.19 million initiative Ireland 2040), it also has County Council, Coillte, Fáilte Project promoting sustainable significant financial and in- Ireland and a cross- development of the area. kind support from Geological community group, JCWL There is a fascinating new Supported mainly by the Survey Ireland (lead partner), GeoEnterprise. The project is development way out west in north Connemara and south Mayo to showcase and tell the stories of what lies beneath our feet and in our towns and villages. Many readers will have heard of Joyce Country, but may not know that the wider region – on the Galway-Mayo border and the area both sides of Loughs Carra, Mask and the Corrib – has an outstanding geological heritage of international significance. So significant, in fact, that a new project is preparing the way for an application to UNESCO for Global Geopark status. The Joyce Country and Western Lakes (JCWL) Geopark Project (Tionscadal Trish Walsh introducing participants to the karst landscape near , Co Galway, during Mountaineering Geopháirc Dhúiche Ireland’s 2019 Mountain Environment Weekend Photographs: Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geopark Project (deircs), Helen Lawless (environmental walk) (environmental Helen Lawless (deircs), Project Geopark Lakes Western and Country Joyce Photographs: 20 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Photograph and map: Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geopark Project Winter 2020 Tourmakeady are just afew Ballinrobe, and Leenane, , much more. Cong, Clonbur, parts of the Burren, and karst landscapes to rival meandering rivers, stunning glaciated lakes and and , Maumtrasna fantastic beauty of the community consultation. voluntary effort and ten years of dedicated a major step forward after Geopark field trip in the Lough Nafooey valley, Joyce Country The region includes the , on localservicesand This willencourage spending ratherdrive thanto through. Geopark, to linger andabsorb in the spend time willing to through attracting people potentialmarkets tourism simultaneously creating wider heritage of the region, people on the geological and showcasing andeducating their stories. fantastic heritage and tell villages ready to share their ofeighteen theand towns The project modelisabout e, joycecountrygeoparkproject.i attractive new website, new logo (see image). has abrand andastriking Western Lakes region now The Joyce Country and What to see anddo villages and towns. sustainable futures for our tourism –allhelping to secure resources rather than mass villages. In the ‘What To Do’ interest andour towns and information aboutsites of is a treasureis troveof The www. landscape to explore our whispering what isbeneath our feet and ... agreat opportunity to learn others in the region. rights of landowners andall heritage, whilerespecting the approach to highlighting local collaborative andsensitive as such, itpromotes a Leave No Trace Ireland project isalsoamember of the Tóchar Phádraig). the Seanbhóthar andpartsof section of the , region (including the Galway national walking trails of the visitorsexplore to the learning andeducation. and awholesection on language and the , culture, including the Irish and wildlife, the peopleand story, landscape, habitats the impressive geological easily digestible details on help you. and aslick interactive map to food andaccommodation, national trails, options for including walks, hikes and of activities andattractions, section there’s agreat range So here itis, Guthna talún The project encourages Other clickable menushave Irish Mountain Log ■ The and, 21 NEWSLOG

Niamh Kennedy (Donegal County Council), Steven Doherty (North West Forest Services), Inga Bock (RRO, Donegal) and Frank Kelly (LEADER Rural Development Manager, Donegal Local Development Company) pictured at the recent start of development works on the IAT at , Co Donegal. Funding for Appalachian Trail through Ulster Funding has been secured to enhance the International Appalachian Trail (IAT) in Donegal. Meanwhile, cross-border collaboration is focusing on improving the user experience on the trail

By Inga Block, Rural Ulster Way, taking it through LEADER Rural Development countries, including the Recreation Officer and IAT the Sperrins, along the Manager, “the project aims United States, Canada, Coordinator in Donegal stunning north coast and to connect Donegal to the Greenland, Iceland, into the . Derry City and Strabane countries throughout Funding of €215,000 has In Donegal, the trail runs District, as well as other Europe and ending in the been secured to carry out from , via Malin local action groups Anti-Atlas Mountains of development and Beg, Glencolmcille, Port, throughout Northern Morocco. enhancement work on over Ardara, , Disert, Ireland, by improving a trail Paul Wylezol, Co-Chair of 120km of the International Lough Eske, Clar and that will have both local and the International Appalachian Trail (IAT) Leghowney, to the border international appeal. Appalachian Trail based in running through Donegal. The with Northern Ireland at “This will help stimulate Canada, said, “The Ulster funding includes a grant of Kelly’s Bridge. local economies by creating Ireland section will be an €161,000 from LEADER, Work on the development additional tourist amenities. inspiring addition to the €50,000 in matching funding project has begun and It will also add value to the International Appalachian from Donegal County includes: continuous work being Trail story, and the Council, with other funding ● Improved trail carried out under the Rural commencement of works being provided by the Rural waymarking Recreation Programme and on the Donegal section of Recreation Programme. the Walks Scheme in the walking trail is a ● Dedicated trailheads at The International Donegal.” significant milestone. key access points Appalachian Trail in Ireland is Work started to bring the “With shared geological ● approximately 485km Trail information boards Appalachian Trail to Ireland and cultural storylines, (302miles) in length and runs ● Additional trail in 2009 and the route was combined with uniquely from south-west Donegal to infrastructure (e.g. stiles, launched on the ground Irish attractions, the Larne, passing through six fencing, seating, etc) here in 2013. We now have developed Ulster Ireland different council areas. The ● Path development works funding to enhance the user section has great potential Trail starts at the spectacular at Lough Eske experience on the Irish to attract a wide variety of Slieve League cliffs, passes ● Trail art including section of this incredibly North American walkers, through Glencolmcille and sculptures along the way diverse international trail. from eco, geo and traverses the Bluestack The Appalachian Trail is adventure tourists, to fans ● A Trail Maintenance and Mountains in one of the largest trail of the well-known Game of Monitoring App. before crossing into County networks in the world, with Thrones television series.” Tyrone. Here it picks up the According to Frank Kelly, route ‘chapters’ in a range of As well as improvements Photograph & map: International Appalachian Trail Appalachian & map: International Photograph 22 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 to the Donegal section of benefit for the businesses the trail, five Northern along the route and in the Ireland councils will be wider area. crossword results making improvements to As part of the effort to their sections as part of attract more local, national The winner of our crossword in IML 135 was Margaret Skuce, of works costing over and international visitors, Ballydehob, Co Cork, who won a Microlight Alpine jacket, a prize worth £600,000. The widespread there is also significant €229.95, from our crossword sponsor, Basecamp. The solution to the investment is the result of a investment being directed crossword is shown below. Mountaineering Ireland will contact the collaborative effort to towards a project to winner to arrange collection of her prize. ensure the overall visitor promote the trail, worth 1 2 3 4 5 experience is improved almost £120,000. Marketing T S A H R 6 across the entire trail for campaigns in Ireland and F R E E 7 L E A D E R both locals and tourists. North America will be By enhancing the visitor executed by Outdoor I V E G C 8 experience, the trail will Recreation NI, an P R E E X I S T E D have the potential to attract organisation with extensive R H S more domestic and experience in promoting 9 10 11 international visitors, and, walking trails to locals and D O W N O T A S K therefore, generate tourists, towards the end of R N U 12 13 substantial economic 2021 ■ K N O C K N A R E 14A A O O K R 15 16 S T R O L L E R N E Original Fine Art Paintings E K D Y O

Microlight Alpine Inspired by the Outdoors Jacket (Women’s)

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Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 23 Eimear Henchion taking some air-time in Round 2 of the 2020 Youth Climbing Series 2020 YOUTH CLIMBING SERIES Covid-19 confined the series to just three amazing rounds Written by Damien O’Sullivan, he Youth Climbing climbers from Scotland, Climbing Series continues to and Wales at the Development attract young Grand Final. Officer Tclimbers from all corners of the island who Round 1 want to test themselves The 2020 Youth Climbing against a range of challenging Series began with a boulder problems and routes. bouldering round at An exceptional show of young Awesome Walls Cork. Young climbing talent and friendly climbers travelled from near rivalry is what makes the and far to test themselves Youth Climbing Series such a against a wide range of special event. boulder problems set by The series is comprised of Chloe Condron and her team. four rounds: two bouldering and two roped climbing. The Round 2 top three climbers from each For the second round of the of the ten competition competition it was time for categories then go to the climbers to put on their compete alongside young harnesses and test their

Eve Buckley eyeing up the next hold in Round 1 Photographs: Ian Lawler (Eimear), Donal Lenehan (Eve) Donal Lenehan (Eimear), Ian Lawler Photographs: 24 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 endurance and strength (as existence. Without their well as some jumping skills) in support and goodwill, the the Dublin Climbing Centre. competition simply would not happen. The Round 3 competition’s sponsors, Round three was hosted at Great Outdoor and BoulderWorld Belfast, where Mammut, add greatly to the the climbers were treated to a competition by providing the suitably challenging range of prizes, t-shirts and hoodies boulder problems set by the that the competitors value in-house team. so highly. The overall results for the Round 4 2020 Youth Climbing Series Round four victim to the (based on the results from dreaded Covid-19. Initially it the three rounds) were as was rescheduled to the end follows: of the summer, then to the end of September, before Male Youth A finally being cancelled.The 1st Dillon McLaughlin Grand Final also had to be 2nd George Lassov rd cancelled due to Covid-19. 3 Matthew Bourke Female Youth A Acknowledgments 1st Faith The Youth Climbing Series is 2nd Amy Orr only possible with a huge 3rd Amber Burns level of voluntary support from many of the Male Youth B competitors’ parents, who 1st Reuben Aiken assist with the judging and 2nd Daniel Creedon belaying at the competitions. 3rd Sean Brown Thanks to everyone who helped. A very special thanks Female Youth B st is due to John Henchion and 1 Caelin Lenehan 2nd Rhyna Conroy Eléonore Conroy who take on 3rd Bonita Thurston the huge task of running the competitions on the day. Male Youth C The walls who host the 1st Patrick Galvin Youth Climbing Series are 2nd Oliver Szelag Joe Feeney fully focused in Round 3 vital to the competition’s 3rd Sam Monedero

Female Youth C 1st Eve Buckley 2nd Clara-Caterina Mayer 3rd Freya O’Connor

Male Youth D 1st Daniel Shine 2nd Maty Petros 3rd Joe Feeney

Female Youth D 1st Ilmur Jonsdottir 2nd Olivia Scott 3rd Lilou Conroy

Male Youth E 1st Calum O’Connor 2nd Caleb Shine 3rd Eoin Galvin

Female Youth E 1st Lucy McClune 2nd Sieve Hoare Ciara Burgoyne at full stretch in Round 1 3rd Duaa Rejeb ■ Photographs:I an Lawler (Joe), Maurice Grehan (Ciara) Maurice Grehan (Joe), an Lawler Photographs:I Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 25 Cork Youth Climbing Club enjoying a sunny day at , in the Burren, Co Clare, in July SUMMER ROCK CLIMBING DAYS Mountaineering Ireland held a series of Youth Climbing Club events in July 2020. Kevin Kilroy reports

ountaineering subsidised to cost less than climbing skills. instructor was teamed up Ireland organised 50% of the standard cost. To minimise contact with one family household. several Youth This enabled club members between groups from The necessary sanitation Climbing Club to attend more days and different households with steps were also put in place events during the further develop their rock respect to Covid-19, one to protect the instructors Msummer of 2020 in Ireland. and the family groups. The events were held in At Dalkey Quarry, many Dalkey Quarry, Co Dublin; young members from the the , Co Dublin Cliff Hangers were Down; The Burren, Co Clare; supported by instruction , Co Antrim; and from John Healy from Cork Cruit Island, Co Donegal. and Mhairi Baird from Kerry. The aim of these events The instructors reported high was to help young club levels of enthusiasm among members to develop their their students to be back skills and judgment on their rock climbing again after a journey towards becoming long break from regular independent rock climbers, climbing. They were further as well as providing them impressed by the young with a fun and safe climbers’ desire to learn and opportunity to go rock understand fully how to stay climbing in Ireland. safe when operating on the Thanks to Mountaineering short but technically Ireland providing instructor challenging traditional routes staff time from Damien on granite that Dalkey O’Sullivan (RCI) and Kevin Quarry offers in abundance. Kilroy (MCI), as well as to In the Mourne Mountains, funding from Sport Northern Roger Conroy sea cliff climbing on Cruit Island, Co Donegal, belayed by his climbers from the Mourne Ireland, these events were daughter, Rhyna Conroy Photographs: John Healy (Ballyran), Iain Miller (Cruit Island) (Cruit Iain Miller (Ballyran), John Healy Photographs: 26 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Lilou Conroy enjoying a family sea cliff adventure on Cruit Island, Co Donegal, in July

and Gilford Youth Climbing new on the classic been diligent in his lockdown Written by Clubs, and families from the corner of Pis Fluich. training, alongside his family, Kevin Kilroy, Belfast area, teamed up with Congratulations, Mhairi! and it paid off for him big Youth Development local instructors Claire At Fair Head, the Gregg time with ascents of Officer Hardy, Jonny Parr, Eamon family rescheduled their December (HVS) and Toby Quinn and Mike Smith to second Mournes climbing Jug (E1). Oliver was only a fantastic opportunity for visit accessible crags such as day, opting for a dry and getting warmed up at the the instructors to introduce a Altnadue Quarry, Spellack, sunny Fair Head with Kevin end of Toby Jug and could keen and talented young Hen Mountain and Pigeon Kilroy and Claire Hardy. probably have kept climbing climber to the world of Fair Oliver Gregg (aged 15) had throughout the night! It was Rock. It was fantastic for the Head. coaches to work with On Cruit Island in County families from the local youth Donegal, families from the climbing clubs as they North West Climbing Team, progress to climbing Belfast Youth Climbing Club, independently on the crags Hanging Rockers Youth in the Mournes. Climbing Club and Cork At the Burren in County Youth Climbing Club teamed Clare, Cork Youth Climbing up with instructors Iain Miller Club members enjoyed four and Neil Busby for four days days with instructors John exploring the perfect pink Healy and Mhairi Baird. granite sea cliffs and Glorious west of Ireland developing their library of trad sunshine was enjoyed on all climbing skills. Cruit is an ideal but one of the days, on venue for young families, with which more time was spent an abundance of high-quality focusing on rope work and routes across the grades in a gear placement for lead beautiful coastal setting. climbing and abseiling. Some of the instructors ■ For a list of all of took full advantage of the Mountaineering Ireland’s long evenings to enjoy their youth climbing clubs, please own adventures on the visit the ‘My Local Club’ link Ailadie sea cliffs, with Mhairi Aoibheann Taylor climbing on the amazing granite in Albatross Zawn, Cruit on the website homepage Baird leading her first of a Island, Co Donegal. www.mountaineering.ie ■ Photographs: Iain Miller (Cruit Island), Kevin Kilroy (Aoibheann Taylor on Cruit) Taylor (Aoibheann Kilroy Kevin Island), (Cruit Iain Miller Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 27 Photographs: John Healy (main photo), Patrick O’Sullivan (helmet) trad-climbing. Were you last time thatwere youout their head. Now think of the wearing ahelmet to protect Alps. Again, they would be climbing or climbingin the you saw someoneice Then thinkof last time the T Damien O’Sullivan 28 PUT A LIDONIT! Old-style helmet that sustained asevere blow inaclimbingaccident Irish Mountain Log wearing ahelmet. would certainly be bike inIreland. They driving amotor- hink of someone on the benefits of owning andwearing amodernclimbinghelmet going on. Often there are two a trad route, there isalot climbers. When trying hard on trad-climbing for alot of falling isnow aregular partof to try harder onrock, and ropes andharnessesallow us leader shallnot fall.’ much since the days of wearing helmets? other peopleat the crag wearing ahelmet? Were the Climbing haschanged so Modern ‘the helmet and that itwillprovide likely to wear amodern believe that climbers are more amazing levels of protection. I comfortable andoffer helmets are extremely helmet. Modernclimbing money to buy anew climbing parting withsomeof your encourage youconsider to with you. Iamgoing to not protect it? the brunt of the fall. So, why could be your head that takes rope and, in that situation, it flipped upsidedown by your envisage afall where you get awkward fall. Itiseasy to – allideal to create an protruding blocks, littleledges left,gear right, to the go behindaleg. Gear to the ropesmanage to Now, Iwant to beupfront – perfect to punch in the headfrom a pub, afriendof minegot a chatting to friends outsidea an injury. While standing lifelong repercussions of such injury and to suffer the easy itis to get aseriousbrain three main things. attitude? Iputitdown to climbing. Why the change of wear my helmet when trad climbing with. Now Ialways was climbingandwhoIwas passive reaction to where I active decisionor just a not remember if this was an sometimes Iwould not. Ido sometimes Iwould wear one, helmet when trad-climbing; about wearing aclimbing than the older models. you withmore protection Firstly, Ihave learnedhow I used to beambivalent Climbing Officer Damien O’Sullivan, Written by Winter 2020 passer-by who mistook him a father, and my safety is also for someone else. Totally the concern of my family. unexpecting a punch, he Climbing has always been a stumbled, fell, and hit his part of my relationship with head on the ground. The my partner, not always a good assailant had run off. There part, mind! My wife does not seemed to be no obvious climb, but she knows how injury, no blood, nothing important it is to me – it is apparently serious – just a part of what makes me! In the punch, a fall, and a bang on early days of our relationship, the ground. However, it was it was a balancing act serious. Later that night, my between spending quality friend was in a coma and time together and me getting undergoing brain surgery. For my climbing fix so that I weeks the prognosis was would be tolerable! More bleak and there were no signs recently, with the arrival of a of response to stimuli. On the baby, that balance has shifted day that he was to be again. Although I do not have transferred to a ward for as much time to get out people in a permanent climbing, I have managed to vegetative state, his eyes have some great days out Helmets are so light and comfortable now there is no reason not to wear one began to flicker. That was the with friends over the past two beginning of a long, slow and years. Now when I put on my very difficult healing process climbing helmet, I am not just as in Christmas time – is the that, five years later, is still far doing it for myself, I am doing I have witnessed how perfect time to start dropping from complete. All of that it for my wife and daughter. I easy it is to get a brain some hints that a new from a head injury from a fall just wish that I had always climbing helmet would make that would be considered very worn a helmet and saved my injury and to suffer the a great present! small in comparison to the own parents from worrying lifelong repercussions There is a great range of falls any of us could have about me. climbing helmets available when we are climbing. The third reason to wear a from companies like Petzl, The second reason I now helmet relates to the Mammut, Black Diamond and one. My current helmet, a wear a climbing helmet far developments in climbing Edelrid in climbing shops Petzl Sirocco, is so more frequently is that my helmets. Climbing helmets are such as Great Outdoors, comfortable that I often safety is now not just my own now so light and comfortable Alpine Sports and Jackson forget that I have it on. It is concern. In the past few years, that I cannot come up with Sports. Do your research and very well vented, with more I have become a husband and any reasons why not to wear find a helmet that suits your than enough airflow for own needs. If possible, try on anything an Irish summer different makes and models. could shine at it. It is light, Ask other climbers what type almost unbelievably so. of helmet they use and what Despite being so light, it they think of it. Speak with a seems to be more than robust staff member in your local enough to survive life in and climbing shop and get their out of rucksacks. No doubt, in advice too. Aim to buy the a few years’ time some genius best helmet that you can will come up with even better afford – or, to put it another technology that will allow way, aim to buy the helmet climbing helmets to become that you are most likely to even more wearable and wear. protective. For now, I think it is Thanks to Petzl, Mammut, fair to say that there are a Black Diamond and Edelrid range of helmets available, you can be in with a chance which are highly wearable and of winning a climbing helmet. will not negatively impact on To be in with a chance, please your climbing performance. go to www.mountaineering.ie/ If you climb and are the climbing/helmets and keep proud owner of a helmet that an eye out on the you choose not to wear more Mountaineering Ireland often than not because it is Facebook and Instagram If you get flipped upside down, your head might take the brunt of the fall uncomfortable to wear, now – pages ■ Photographs: Damien O’Sullivan Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 29 A PERSONAL REFLECTION

THE LURE OF THE HILLS

Marian Wallis first became aware of the magic and mystery of the hills during her youth, in the Ballyhouras

he hills and For all who love the Hillwalking takes us to wildlife and plants we no mountains are mountains, this is the face of places we might otherwise longer recognise. like magnets, the Sacred. Since time began, have not visited. We Every summit gained which pull us people have looked at the adventure in every province adds to our inward journey; upwards and mountains as the gateway at home in Ireland, but many our achievements add to challenge us to between Heaven and Earth. also cross continents to walk our confidence; new skills explore in the shadows of the great From Peru to Nepal, and from encourage us; and new beyond the horizon. mountains, including, for T Hawaii to Australia, friendships, born out of We are intoxicated by the mountains appear in the example, Mont Blanc, Mount expanse of the mountains, Kilimanjaro, Machu Picchu shared sweat and tears on myths, stories and legends of the ascent, are precious. We the colours, the rainbows, the many cultures. In Ireland, we and Mount Everest. We are have new relationships with sudden shafts of light casting have our own Celtic tradition enriched by interacting with mysterious shadows, the indigenous people around our companions, with the of holy mountains, with fascinating rock formations, these mountains, and with hills and mountains, but , Croagh Patrick and the mists steaming in the their cultures. mostly with ourselves. Brandon. Like those sun, the high ridges bridging ancestors of old who sought reality and enchantment, the out the mountains, THE HILLS ALLOW THE ANGUISHED untamed wilderness, and the surrounded by their majesty, reward of reaching the TO ESCAPE THE SUFFOCATING summit. ferocity and uniqueness of EXPECTATIONS OF A WORLD The lashing rain, the bone- creation, we are more alive chilling wind or the icy flutter and more in rhythm with our NO LONGER FAMILIAR. of snow are of little breath, our consciousness consequence at that time, as and our bodies. On the Our walks in Ireland are no When fun and hope are lost our senses are entrapped by summit, free from the clutter less enriching as we cross a to the pain of tragedy, the hills the grandeur and wonder of and noise of everyday landscape littered with stone are steadfast. They embrace these remote landscapes. It is demands, we learn to stop circles, standing stones and the broken-hearted with then we are humbled and and be silent in the moment. other ancient monuments. solitude and stillness. They silently acknowledge that we The hills are constant, These remind us that we soothe with natural melodies are in the presence of permanent and eternal. Here stride through history and and rhythm, allowing the greatness. we belong. myth, connecting with anguished to escape the Photograph: Marian Wallis Marian Photograph: 30 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 HILLS AND MOUNTAINS INVITE US TO VISIT THEIR SUMMITS AND TO LOOK BEYOND ... TO ADVENTURES AND CHALLENGES.

suffocating expectations of a Hills and mountains invite world no longer familiar. us to visit their summits and The repeated mantra of ‘one to look beyond. They offer the step at a time,’ as you struggle possibility of adventures and uphill, becomes the physical challenges. Even when we go focus of one’s existence, and back to the same hill or mountain, it is different. Every distracts you from your inner walk we do has its own pain. As you stumble, curse and distinct sky, colours, sounds, cry in agony, this mantra challenge and craic. There we becomes the code to help you can make memories and navigate the new reality. Each celebrate our achievements, summit reached is another free of our everyday cares. handrail for you to grasp and to We are awakened to the joy stand a little straighter. of living ■ The hills have always played a part in my life, as I was reared at the foot of the Ballyhoura Mountains. There I found fun, mystery and magic. Myths became real, as we followed the path of Fionn and his men, gazed down on the valley to which Oisín returned from Tír na nÓg, scrambled over outcrops of rocks, and felt on top of the world. I was enthralled. There, on the slopes of Blackrock, began a life-long ➤ Marian Wallis is a member passion, which has shaped and of Mountaineering Ireland’s

Photographs: Marian Wallis Marian Photographs: enriched my last six decades. Hillwalking Committee.

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 31 ULSTER WAY

KICKING WITH BOTH FEET

Gerdette Rooney describes completing a seven-week continuous walk along the Ulster Way in 2002, four years after the signing of the Peace Agreement

n late summer of 2002, I took a notion to walk Above: Gerdette On my hike, I would rattle my bucket at events I the entire 1,070 kilometres of the Ulster Way, (front row, fourth happened on, and target small businesses in towns which circles Northern Ireland, with a spur going from left) at her on the route. into the Republic in County Donegal and a short send-off at the I set out on August 10th, 2002, from the Sliabh detour into my home county of . By Beagh Centre in north Monaghan, where a large then, I had climbed many peaks and hiked to Centre, group of family, friends and representatives of Aware IEverest Base Camp, but it was time to explore my Monaghan, on cheered me off. The local walking group own turf and follow the ‘yellow man’ signposts. August 10th, 2002. accompanied me across the pristine blanket bogland Sadly, Ulster has been synonymous with the of Bragan to link up with the Ulster Way. It was an Troubles, but this ancient province of Ireland proved Below: An old area I knew well from my childhood, as we had to be an area of outstanding beauty for hikers. sweathouse or collected turf there and picnicked near a Mass Rock I walked solo, wearing the bright yellow t-shirt of ‘teach alluis’ in from the Penal Laws era. Aware, the Northern Ireland charity which supports County In the afternoon, my cheery companions left me to people who experience depression. This was in Fermanagh. continue on the quiet boreens of the Clogher Valley memory of my late mother, Clare Rooney, who and, for the first few days, the Ulster Way darted back suffered this debilitating condition for many years and forth across the border. following the death of my brother Cathal in a car accident. I understood only too well the impact of depression on immediate family and how helpless one can feel to help and provide adequate support.

➤ Gerdette Rooney is originally from Monaghan and now lives in Sydney, Australia. She is an avid traveller and has hiked in many parts of the world, including into Everest Base Camp in Nepal and Tibet, on the GR20 in Corsica, and on the Waitukubuli Trail in Dominica. Gerdette has also climbed Kilimanjaro and Kinabalu. Her first travel book, Womadic Wanders: Stories of a Compulsive Traveller, will be published soon. Photographs: Gerdette Rooney Collection Rooney Gerdette Photographs: 32 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 I carried an official letter from Aware as well as Above: Map of The first week was pleasant walking on quiet police permits sanctioning public collections. A the Ulster Way country lanes amongst gently rolling hills and tranquil bikers’ rally in village was a good beginning, (the Donegal lakes, frequented by fishermen. In this ‘bandit where riders in the pit stop and the audience lining sections are not country’ of south Armagh, each village I came to had the route were generous and supportive. shown here). its Orange Hall and the churches of the two Growing up on the border, and knowing the subtle persuasions, with either the Union Jack or the psychology of being either Catholic or Protestant, Below: The Republican tricolour flying from poles, depending on was advantageous in understanding the little disused Ulster the majority in the locality. However, kind people innuendos of many situations I would find myself in. I Canal in ‘bandit everywhere told sad stories of pain and loss to a didn’t care ‘which foot a person kicked with,’ as they country’ in stranger. say in Ulster to define your religious persuasion. County Armagh. I got fitter by the day and soon averaged thirty To minimise detours off the main route for a bed, I kilometres most days, with a rest day each week. To carried a bivvy bag and asked local farmers if I could avoid blisters, I wore cushioned trainers on the roads camp on their property. It was this decision that and changed into sturdy boots on rough ground. ➤ would bring the greatest joy on the walk. Past suspicions didn’t prevent people offering a ‘quick cuppa’ that often evolved into marathon counselling sessions at kitchen tables. The guessing game would commence, figuring out which foot I kicked with, a slow comedy I learned to enjoy. With a quasi-Northern Irish accent and a strange name, I wasn’t easy to box. However, once they had got the measure of me, I was frequently offered a comfy bed, sometimes under the glaring eyes of Ian Paisley, hovering above me on the wall. On visiting the toilet in one house, a portrait of the Queen watched my every movement. My hosts and I joked about it the following morning. Photographs: Gerdette Rooney Collection Rooney Gerdette Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 33 ULSTER WAY

The terrain varied greatly, ranging from minor lanes to Above: Batt’s The weather turned wild on the stunning north forest tracks, stunning coastal paths and wet bog. In Wall in the Antrim coast, with only the screech of seabirds for poorly signposted regions, my compass became my Mourne company. The track descended to slippery, bouldered best friend; and it required twenty-one Ordnance Mountains. beaches, where rough swells battered chalk stacks in Survey maps to cover the entire walk. the tiny bays. I was relieved to sight the organ-pipe The Mourne Mountains were the first taxing Below: Gerdette cliffs and basalt steps of the Giant’s Causeway, wilderness area that I had to navigate, with heavy rain at Helen’s Bay, Co signifying the end to a crazy day. across a constant up-and-down boggy traverse of Down, where she I didn’t linger at the famous rocky site, as the barren moorland. Batt’s Wall, constructed in Famine ‘cat-sat’ for a bed Bushmills Whiskey Distillery nearby beckoned and, times, served as an excellent landmark in poor with the Sheldon as my father’s favourite drop, I toasted his memory visibility. The wall was built some eighty years before family. on a wee dram and warmed my jaded bones. the Mourne Wall, which it joins at the top of Slieve I stayed with the Doaks nearby, a family beset by Muck. I dried out at a friend’s farm that night, where I tragedy when their daughter was murdered in 1985 earned my keep assisting in the Caesarian section of by the IRA. Parents Jean and Beattie coped with their a heifer! grief by doing positive work in uniting a bitterly The picturesque shores of Strangford Lough were a divided community. These strangers to me, who had wildlife haven and, after two weeks’ walking, the good reason to be prejudiced against Catholics, ‘yellow man’ led me through the grounds of Stormont became dear friends. We discussed ordinary lives, Castle. I collected my Northern Ireland permit, and whether Protestant or Catholic, and wondered how it the security guards contributed to the worthy cause. could all go so wrong in a small province like Ulster. The Ulster Way took me through some dodgy areas I was delighted to learn years later that both were renowned for sporadic sectarian violence in the past. decorated by the Queen for their outstanding efforts. I met young ‘cider-heads’ with glazed eyes in a park, I had walked over 600 kilometres and, looking but they wished me well on my journey. In an area with burned-out cars, where idle youths eyed me suspiciously, I just beamed and waved. Trusting that humanity is fundamentally good is a premise of mine when travelling alone, and I was never once afraid during the walk. Leaving the bleak Belfast Hills, I crossed the Sallagh Braes, detouring around the infamous Sinking Bog, a graveyard for livestock where I didn’t want to meet my own end. Before descending to the lovely Glens of Antrim, the views across to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland were breathtaking and the ‘ladderfield’ method of cultivation intriguing, a touch of Asian terraced rice paddies in Ulster. I struck lucky that my walk coincided with the Auld Lammas Fair at Ballycastle, where I bought a different ‘yellow man,’ divine-tasting honeycomb toffee that boosted my energy levels! My bucket speedily filled as I mingled with farmers at livestock sales and crowds gathered listening to street musicians. Photographs: Gerdette Rooney Collection Rooney Gerdette Photographs: 34 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 leaner and tanned by the wind, I headed into the Above: Wild walk. It was a rich encounter with a welcoming Sperrin Mountains, which was the most solitary moorland on the stranger. section of my entire walk. I thought rumours of gold in Sallagh Braes in The weather turned damp and miserable as I the remote hills must be true, noticing one or two . walked north through the Bluestack Mountains to grandiose Spanish haciendas in the middle of the coast again, climbing Errigal on a rare fine day. In nowhere. I reflected that this was the new face of Below: View of a small village, the unexpected generosity of a small affluent Ireland, as no one was ever at home, the spectactular businessman reminded me why I was walking. A dear owners hitting the urban sprawl to cover the high Antrim coastline friend of his, heavily in debt, had committed suicide mortgages of the time. Often a lonesome dog (before the wind the day before. The man was devastated by the whimpered when I knocked at a door looking for began to howl). tragedy, regretting that he hadn’t noticed his friend’s water. troubles. There were tears in his eyes as he handed I met a lonely farmer one day as I struggled to hop me a fat cheque for Aware. forward on a muddy and puddled nettle track. Jim I detoured over to Tory Island where the king, Patsy heard me swear in frustration and approached for a Dan Rodgers [who passed away in 2018], greeted me chat. “No one wants to stop and talk anymore,” he warmly in his unique accent, which reminded me of complained. “Everyone is too busy.” I felt sorry for him childhood days in the Ranafast Gaeltacht. The island is and, as I listened to his woes, it was a valuable lesson rich in myth and legend, and a wild cliff walk took me on the purpose of my walk. to Balor’s Fort, home to a one-eyed giant in pagan I had an extraordinary experience stepping back in times and now inhabited by nesting gannets. ➤ time near in Donegal. The terrain was through confusing forestry and I had strayed off the correct path. As the light faded, I jogged down a firebreak, hoping to clear the forest. A dog barked and I emerged sweating and scratched into a clearing where a woman stood in a cottage doorway. Mary thought me a scared deer and I only stopped shaking after two pots of tea! The collie dozed by the turf fire and, in the dim light of an oil lamp, Mary related her story. She lived alone with no electricity, running water or toilet, fearlessly content with the company of her dog and her books. Later, she led me by torchlight to the main road, wishing me God speed for my Photographs: Gerdette Rooney Collection Rooney Gerdette Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 35 ULSTER WAY

a quiet prayer to my mother and thanked my feet for getting me this far with only a few blisters. Waking to a pea-soup mist on the lake, my ferryman arrived at 8.00am and I embraced the last leg of my walk, spiritually enriched and with renewed vigour in my step. The Fermanagh region of Northern Ireland is a hidden gem of striking limestone cliffs, peaceful lakes and wooded estates with historic yew trees. It was magical one day to come across an old Irish sweathouse. These earth- and-stone saunas were I was on a mission to score some ‘blessed Tory clay,’ Above: View of primarily used for treating arthritis but also helped supposed to get rid of rats. It must be blessed by a Errigal (762m) in with fertility problems and psychiatric disorders. How member of the Duggan clan, and, sure enough, I met County Donegal. I wished this one was still in use to heal my aching the shaman elder himself in the pub and was given my joints! little holy pouch for the price of a pint! However, I Below left: On There was exhilaration, yet reluctance, arriving back th confess that the rats in my shed continued to the Sliabh Beagh at my starting point on September 28 after seven weeks walking. It was time to abandon the multiply! Way with tranquillity and peace of nature for the noise and September days were getting shorter in the sixth members of a local walking bustle of real life and work. My walk raised over week of my walk. It is said that solitude, as opposed group. €7,000 for Aware and I requested that the monies to loneliness, can benefit the mind, body and soul. raised help deal with youth suicide and post-natal I had permission to spend a solitary night at St Below right: depression, two issues I came across often on my Patrick’s Purgatory on , as the pilgrim Gerdette with journey. season had just ended. This would be the spiritual the late King of As a hiker, I felt immensely uplifted to have walked element to my walk – food for the soul. Tory, Patsy Dan in beautiful landscapes, but the real reward was the In the evening, I left the fading light of the basilica Rodgers, on Tory memory of engaging with the people of Ulster, whose to watch a glorious sunset over the surrounding hills Island, Co kindness, warmth and hospitality were legendary and and I sat by the shore until a crescent moon rose over Donegal. would remain with me forever ■ the dark waters. The feeling was as good as any monastery in the Himalayas or ashram in India. I said In memory of my mother, Clare Rooney (1928-2000) Photographs: Gerdette Rooney Collection Rooney Gerdette Photographs: 36 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 37 COMERAGHS

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Michael O’Donoghue delves into the meanings of the Comeraghs’ place names

hat’s in a name, indeed. The Above: Anglicisation Comeraghs, like everywhere else Coumduala (Com Many place names were nearly lost in translation in Ireland, have a variety of place Dubh Fhalla, with the arrival of English as the spoken language in names. The vast majority of the ‘hollow of the the mid-19th century. However, Canon Power’s great names are Gaelic in origin, but black cliff’) from understanding of Irish enabled him to make many have changed over time. Cnoc an Aifrinn. intelligent and almost always correct interpretations The Comeraghs have always been a remote, barren W of the anglicised names we were left with. Before place and this has greatly helped to preserve the old him, John O’Donovan, working for the Ordnance names. Here in Waterford, we owe a great debt to Survey as Master of Antiquities, visited 62,000 Canon Patrick Power for the Trojan work he did in and recorded 144,000 place names in the researching, recording and explaining so many of our 1830s and 1840s. Scholars like O’Donovan, Power and local place names. Canon Power understood the Patrick Joyce all emphasised that the present form importance of place to a rural people. In his book of many Irish place names was derived from the The place-names of Decies, published in the early ancient Irish names as they were spoken, not written. 20th century, he gives us a wonderful insight into the For example, from Sliabh na mBan in Irish, you now many influences, both natural and human, that have have in the anglicised version. shaped the names of the places around us, down The 19th century saw the rapid replacement of through the ages. Irish by English as the vernacular in Ireland. Tens of thousands of native speakers died out or emigrated during and after the Great Famine. The National School system – or The Murder Machine, as Patrick ➤ Michael O’Donoghue lives near Rathgormack, Pearse called it – introduced in 1831, greatly . He is encouraged parents and children alike to turn their a founder member of the backs on the old language. The Catholic Church and Rathgormack Ramblers influential political leaders like Daniel O’Connell did and has led walks in likewise. It was against this background that young Ireland, England, Kilkenny man John O’Donovan was charged with Scotland and Wales. preserving as many of the old place names as possible, and he did so by putting a huge emphasis on preserving the sounds in the old names as spoken by native speakers. The Brian Friel play Translations gives us a great insight into this chapter of our cultural history. Photographs: Michael O’Donoghue Photographs: 38 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Early Celts: the bestowers of names Above: Stuaicín Since there are at least fourteen large marshy The language of the early Celts, who came to Ireland Garbh (‘rough hollows on the mountains, scoured out by glaciers, in about 500 BC, was a forerunner of old Irish. The rock pinnacle’) it is not surprising to see the name Comeraghs Celts were fond of naming places from features in above applied to the place. Coum Knockaun means Coumshingaun. the landscape around them. Most of the place ‘hollow of the hillock;’ Coumduala (Com Dubh names in the Comeraghs today have an Irish Fhalla), ‘hollow of the black cliff;’ and Comalochas, Below: Bóthar na language source, with many referring to physical ‘hollow of the lakes.’ Socraide (‘the features, which suggests that the names are quite Cnoc, a hill, and carraig, a rock, are two other funeral path’) ancient and go back to early Celtic times. Power tells important physical-feature root words. near An Bearna Knockavannia means ‘hill of the milk;’ us “Irish place names are the simplest of simple (The Gap). things.” Much can be derived from the , ‘hill of the Mass;’ Carricknagower, name, according to Power. It has, he says, “the hoary ‘rock of the goats;’ and Carrigeen, ‘little rock.’ antiquity of centuries.” Rocky ribs are represented by the words stuaic and cruach. You have Stookeenmeen, ‘smooth Root words rock cone,’ and Stookeengarriff, ‘rough rock cone,’ Probably the most common root word in the above Coumshingaun. There are two Cruacháns on Comeraghs is com, which means ‘marshy hollow.’ the Comeraghs: Cruachán Paorach near Clonea ➤

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 39 COMERAGHS

(where the Powers of Curraghmore are buried) and Above: An Vegetation root words include móin, meaning Cruachán Déiseach above Dungarvan. Seanbhean (‘the ‘turf,’ and coll, ‘hazel.’ Aitinn is ‘furze,’ seascann, Cluain, meaning ‘meadow,’ gleann, ‘glen or valley,’ old woman’) ‘sedge,’ and fraochán, ‘whortleberry (bilberry).’ cúl, ‘recess’ or ‘corner,’ and currach, meaning ‘marsh,’ waterfall above You find Monavullaghs (‘turf on the summit’), are other physical-feature root words. You have the Sgilloges in Colligan (‘hollow of the hazel’), Coolattin (‘recess Clondonnell, ‘O’Donnell’s meadow;’ , in the Nire valley. of the furze’), Curraghteskin (‘sedgy marsh’) and the Nire valley, ‘valley of the two lakes;’ Coolnalingady Kilfrehan (‘church or wood of the whortleberries’). near Rathgormack, ‘recess of the long lake’ or ‘recess Below: Top of The early Irish were a superstitious lot, hence the of the lake of the robbers;’ and Curraghduff, on the Comlara, or Com appearance of names relating to fairies and plateau, meaning ‘black bog’ or ‘black marsh.’ Ladhair (‘hollow mythical characters. Carraigsheegowna may mean Root words relating to water include loch (Lough of the junction’), ‘fairy rock of the calves;’ Shanballyanne may refer to Mohra), glaise (Douglas, ‘dark river’) and uisce looking towards Áine, a Celtic goddess (with Shanbally meaning ‘old (Iske Sullas, ‘water of light,’ near Coumshingaun). Knockanaffrin. townland’); while Seefin is ‘Finn McCool’s seat.’ Words indicating a passage through the mountains There are some root words relating to settlement, are represented by mám and bearna; both words some of them going back a long way. Rath, as in mean ‘gap.’ The Mauma Road, from Bóthar an Mháma, Rathgormack (‘Cormac’s fort’), was an earthen ring is a gap between Cruachán Déiseach and the Monavullaghs, while The Gap (Béal an Bhearna) is a col between the Comeragh plateau and the Knockanaffrin ridge, through which an old funeral route between the Nire and Rathgormack passes. Animals and birds were also popular for place names. Carrigshanean means ‘rock of the old birds;’ Coumfea, perhaps ‘hollow of the deer;’ Coumnagappul (near Colligan), ‘hollow of the horses;’ Davbeg (near Kilrossanty), ‘small ox or stag;’ and Glenary (near Clonmel), ‘valley of the shepherd’ (aoire). The word ‘Nire’ itself possibly comes from the old Irish word for cow (uidhir). Coumshingaun may mean ‘hollow of the ants.’ Photographs: Michael O’Donoghue Photographs: 40 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 fort from the early Christian period. Graig, as in Above: The arrival of modern times. Just think, what do we know Graigavalla (‘village on the route’) was a name used Boolas (Na Buaillí, about the language spoken in Ireland before the arrival for a village often associated with early monasteries, ‘the herding of the Celts? What were our places called then? though ‘Graig’ here may also mean rock. places’) and their Canon Power refers to the name often used by Buaile is a very interesting root word. It was used in Pater Noster scholars when writing about the earliest settlers in pre-Viking times to mean ‘a summer herding or Lakes from the Ireland, Ivernians, and from that some of the names milking place,’ as in Boolabrien in the Nire valley and Comeragh given to this land – Hibernia, Érin, etc. What, if any, the Boolas near Rathgormack. Leave out the ‘u’ and plateau. evidence have we got of times back then? Power you have baile, which came to mean ‘homestead’ believed that the names of many of the rivers of the and eventually ‘town’, e.g. as in Ballymacarbery. Below: Seefin Déise “defy analysis.” It is difficult to see a Celtic or There are some place names connected with (Suí Fhinn) on Gaelic origin in rivers’ names such as Lingaun, Tay, people. The O’Briens from Thomond got land around Monavullaghs Brickey, Lickey, Funcheon or Dalligan. The language and Kilrossanty in the 15th century. As a result, you have with modern hut place names of the ‘Neolithic Aboriginals’ were wiped Lemybrien and Mahon Falls (Mahon, or Mathún, was and Bronze Age out by the Celts and, in turn, our Irish place names are a common first name amongst the O’Briens). cairn. now in decline. What will we have left in another Crotty’s Lake is named after the 18th-century robber century or two? That is a sobering thought! ■ William Crotty. Knockaunapeebra (Cnocán a’píobaire) above Coum Mahon means ‘piper’s hill.’ There is little evidence of recent invaders influencing place names (Viking, Norman or English planters), though in the Nire valley you have Curtiswood and Russelstown, while in Kilrossanty you have Roxboro and Newtown Palliser. Focal scoir Mar fhocal scoir – or, as we say in the fairly recent language we speak, “as a parting word” – the place names around the Comeraghs today have evolved and are constantly evolving. What we have now is probably a small enough percentage of the names that were once known before the

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 41 MALAWI

THE WARM HEART OF AFRICA

Regina Flynn visits the Mulanje Massif in Malawi in south-east Africa

“On earth there is no heaven, but there are pieces of it.” Above: Mount size of Ireland, but one-third of its surface area is taken – Jules Renard Mulanje. up by Lake Malawi. In 2018, it had a population of just over 18 million people, with 85% of that population he young guide looked at me expectantly Below: Small living in rural areas. and introduced himself as Leason. He said fishing boats on Malawi is one of the ten poorest countries in the that he was an accredited guide for the Lake Malawi. world, with half of the population living below the nearby Mount Mulanje, which is also poverty line and 25% living in extreme poverty. High known as the Mulanje Massif, a range of unemployment, poor governance, alarming levels of over twenty peaks. I had arrived in the HIV/AIDS, TB and malaria, a lack of natural resources, Tnearby town of Mulanje in the south-east of Malawi poor quality of education provision and the only two hours earlier, after using various modes of subsistence farming practiced by the majority of the transport to get there from the country’s capital, population contribute to the poverty of the Malawian Lilongwe. The almost 400km journey had taken all people. day, using a fast, non-stop coach going south from Nevertheless, it is a country of stunning beauty, Lilongwe to Blantyre, followed by a series of local home to Lake Malawi, the great Shire River, the Shire minibuses of dubious mechanical prowess heading to Highlands, which include the Zomba Plateau and the Mulanje, packed with passengers, babies and the Mulanje Massif, and game parks. occasional hen. I was going to Mount Mulanje to go hiking for three Malawi is a small, landlocked country located in days in that magnificent range of granite peaks, the south-east Africa. It is about one and a half times the

➤ Regina Flynn has been an active member of Galway Walking Club for several years. She is also a keen traveller, who frequently participates in walking trips overseas. Photographs: David Davies (Mt Mulanje), Regina Flynn (Lake Malawi) Flynn (Lake Regina (Mt Mulanje), Davies David Photographs: 42 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 highest in central and southern Africa. The peaks Above: Sapitwa Africa Presbyterian (CCAP) hut, Hope’s Rest Cottage, stretch up to just over 3,000m, with the highest peak, Peak (3,002m), where I was to stay the first night, these huts are all at 3,002m, being Sapitwa Peak, as Leason informed the highest maintained by the Mountain Club of Malawi (MCM). me. It is part of a protected area measuring 22 km by peak in the Guides and porters are necessary, as both the 26 km. Mulanje Massif. ascent and descent are very difficult, covering varying Today, villagers, families and small farmers continue forms of terrain, often with rocks and boulders. The to live around the massif in one of the highest rural Below: Regina paths are often barely visible and there are no population densities in Africa. Much of the area Flynn on the landmarks to guide a lone hiker, so groups of local consists of rolling grassland at elevations of 1,800m Lichenya people, both men and women, are employed to clear to 2,200m, intersected by deep, forested ravines. Plateau. the way. Many of the other individual peaks reach heights of Leason had come to the Mulanje Motel, where I over 2,500m, including Chambe Peak (2,557m), the was staying, to offer his services as a guide at the West Face of which is the longest rock climb in Africa. standard rate of US$25 per day. An hour later, we had Ten basic huts are dotted throughout the range for wrapped matters up and had arranged to meet at hikers to sleep in and in which a fire is lit for light, heat 7.00am the following day. I was chuffed. Within one and cooking purposes. A caretaker is responsible for day I had travelled a long distance from Lilongwe, had each of these huts; hikers and guides carry their own found a place to stay, had organised a three-day trip food and the caretaker collects MK3,000 (€3) for to Mount Mulanje and was about to embark on a each night’s stay. Apart from the Church of Central great adventure. Packing only the minimum of clothing, food and a sleeping bag, I set off from the Mulanje Motel with Leason the following morning. For the first four kilometres we walked through a tea estate. Mount Mulanje presides over many tea estates, for which the area is noted. According to Leason, Prince Charles owns many of these estates! Malawi’s high unemployment rate is partially attributed to the closure of tea factories, which has had a devastating impact in the region. The Lichenya Plateau Soon after we got through the tea estate, the ascent began in earnest. Leason had explained to me that we would follow the Boma Path from Mulanje town up and across the Lichenya Plateau. This was a very tough climb, sheer and steep, consisting mainly of huge boulders and rocks that involved extensive scrambling. These boulders and rocks straddled streams and waterfalls, whose waters were cold, spring-like and delicious to drink. It was probably the hardest climb that I have ever done, outdoing . It was so sheer and ➤ Photographs: Regina Flynn Regina Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 43 MALAWI

Mozambique and South Africa, for use by artists and craftspeople. Authorities seem to turn a blind eye to this lucrative practice. Another exhilarating day ensued. The splendour of the encircling granite and limestone peaks, the lack of human activity, the stillness and quietness of the landscape, the space and the bush combined to create a timeless, magical, mindful experience. Yes, the climb was hard and arduous. I think it was the hardest that I have ever done, again on a par with the final ascent of a lot of scrambling was involved; and the boulders Above: Boulder- Kilimanjaro, but it was intriguing, exciting and were big and quite intimidating. There were few strewn hill on the challenging. branches to clutch on to, but the local guides climbed Lichenya Plateau. MCM’s Chambe Hut, where we stayed that night, in loafers, brown runners or open sandals, without was located at an altitude of 1,860m. Firewood was qualms and seemingly without minding their own Below: Hope’s available but it was suggested by the caretaker that safety. Those guys were amazing, but their income is Rest Cottage, hikers should not burn too much of it. Hence another sporadic and precarious. the Church of early night was called for. It was also the custom of The sun shone all day. At about 2,000m, after Central Africa the guides, porters and caretakers of the huts to eat a Presbyterian climbing almost 1,300m, I was getting weary and it hot meal of their staple nsima (maize) early in the (CCAP) hut. was time to call it a day. The CCAP Hope’s Rest evening and then to sleep, so it was implied that Cottage (1,981m) was a welcome sight. The hut visitors should do the same. I was on my own in the contained a bench, a table and chairs, and had room hut, so there was no company except the stars. for up to eight hikers to stay. A thin mattress on a When the last day of the trip finally dawned, it could wooden frame was my bed. Everywhere was not come soon enough, as I had been in bed since spotlessly clean, maintained by the caretaker, 6.00pm the previous night! We set off on the Henderson. downward journey. I was nostalgic and lonely, and did Huge logs burned in the large fireplace. I boiled the not want to leave this magical, inspiring range of kettle and pots for rice and pasta. One other hiker mountains. The crossing of streams and rivers proved shared the accommodation, Juris from Barcelona. challenging, but we made it safely to the bottom, William, his guide, had hauled a live chicken up from where I paid MK1,000 (€1) to the Likhubula Forestry Mulanje. I didn’t witness its killing outside the hut, but Office for the three-day adventure. Juris and William were eagerly anticipating their two- For a climbing experience, for a low-cost expedition course meal of chicken soup followed by chicken with and for the sheer adventure of it, I would highly rice. They polished off the pot and I wasn’t offered recommend a trip to Malawi’s Mount Mulanje. I any! certainly enjoyed my visit to this memorable The majestic peaks, the silence, the purity of the air mountain range ■ and even the open latrines and the makeshift shower filled me with a sense of awe. Darkness fell at 6.00pm and, soon after, the sky was luminous with thousands of stars twinkling brightly. I felt very near to the sky and it was as if I could reach out and pluck the stars from it. After being in bed the previous night at the unearthly hour of 7.20pm, I welcomed the early 7.00am start the following morning. The sun shone brightly again and we set off to climb the nearby Chilemba Peak (2,365m). Chilemba Peak Yellow and purple flowers danced in the slight breeze while large cacti dotted the landscape. Sounds of tree-cutting could be heard and I was informed that they were poachers who are illegally wiping out the indigenous cedar tree unique to Mount Mulanje. Hardy young men carry the blocks of wood down the mountains where it is sold in neighbouring Photographs: Regina Flynn (boulder-strewn hill), Mountain Club of Malawi (CCAP hut) (CCAP Malawi Club of Mountain hill), Flynn (boulder-strewn Regina Photographs: 44 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 ICELAND

MAGICAL HIKING IN ICELAND

Lar Matthews has warm memories of a trip to Iceland

had always regarded Iceland as a place for real Above: mountaineers to go to, but not for the likes of Landmannalaugar hillwalkers like myself. However, when I got an landscape. opportunity to go there in the first week of July 2006 with a group of friends, I grabbed it. Right: Gullfoss IThe country’s spectacular beauty is the stuff of Waterfall. legends, and the strangeness of its landscape is awesome. Iceland is quite new in terms of how the Earth is developing, and visiting there is akin to taking a geological trip through recent history. It is interesting to learn about Iceland’s in the context of its receding glaciers. Indeed, some people say that it is like visiting the moon. We landed in the world’s most northerly capital city, Reykjavik, replete with its wooden houses with blue, green, red and white roofs. I recommend going up on the roof of Hallgrimskirkja, a church with a ➤ great view of the city.

➤ Lar Matthews is a veteran of over 60 years’ mountain hiking experience, throughout Ireland and beyond. He is still an intrepid hillwalker and is an occasional writer. Photographs: Joshua Sortino (Landmannalaugar), Khamkéo Vilaysing (Gullfoss Waterfall) (Gullfoss Vilaysing Khamkéo Joshua Sortino (Landmannalaugar), Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 45 ICELAND

Early on, one of the real surprises there was Above: handrails had been swept away, presumably by an coming out of a pub at 11.30pm and seeing the sun One of the avalanche. Some of the group found this very testing. still shining on the top storeys of the buildings many stunning Nearing the top of the pass, we found it difficult to around us. There were nearly 24 hours of daylight waterfalls on the find the hut, as the mist was right down on us and the when we were there, so some found it a bit difficult Fimmvorduhals waymarks were covered in snow, but we were lucky to to sleep at night. However, the sun disappears there Trail. see some footprints, which guided us to the hut where from November to February, when there is the we were staying. opportunity to see the Northern Lights. Below: Iceland is not a cheap place to holiday. A pint of Skogafoss Hut sleepover beer was the equivalent of around €10 and, when Waterfall, the The hut was located in a very precarious place on the two of our party ordered puffins in a restaurant as a last waterfall highest point of the pass. Tons of rocks were piled starter, they found out that it was a rather costly downriver on the against it, up to the sills of the windows, to stop it entrée, at €28 each! Fimmvorduhals being blown away. The Eyjafjallajokull volcanic We took a full-day tour to Thingvellir National Trail, at the end eruption in 2010 created two new craters there and Park, where the great Atlantic Rift tears Iceland apart of the route. destroyed the hut. The ash it emitted disrupted air along the tectonic plates. We also visited the travel for ten million people, and the locals were very powerful Gullfoss Waterfall and the very impressive much affected by the sulphur dioxide gas. Strokkur Geyser, which erupts with boiling water every ten minutes to a height of a hundred feet – certainly a ‘wow’ moment! Warning: don’t stand downwind of it! Fimmvorduhals trek The trek over the Fimmvorduhals mountain pass is listed as one of the twenty best treks in the world by National Geographic magazine, and is only open for a few short months of the year. We were transported to Thorsmork by a high-chassis eight-wheel bus with six-feet diameter wheels, as we had to drive through rivers four feet deep in places. When we started walking, we were in light clothes, but, as we climbed, we put on extra layers. After several hours we came to a dodgy, knife-edge arête with long drops on either side. Later, we had to traverse a one-foot-wide narrow shelf on the side of a high cliff where the wire Photographs: Nicky Hore (waterfall, top), Rio Hodges (Skogafoss Waterfall) Waterfall) Rio Hodges (Skogafoss top), (waterfall, Hore Nicky Photographs: 46 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Landmannalaugar hike On another day, we went to Landmannalaugar (‘the people’s pool’). This is a geothermal area flanked by rock, steaming hot springs, black lava, green moss, red iron, and blue-green mountains, a perfect setting for a great day’s hike! We went for a four-hour walk through the strange, sprawling lava fields, with sulphur vents all around. We finished with a dip in one of the hot geothermal pools. On our way back to the hotel, the bus driver pointed out some car tracks on a hillside that had been created by an off-road vehicle twenty years ago. The tracks were still visible, which underlined the fragility of the environment in Iceland. The Blue Lagoon The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa is surreal, with steam rising among the jet-black lava formations. That night, we stayed in the hut and were rocked Above: Thingvellir This was a great way to finish a magical holiday, so to sleep by the wind shaking it. We had to melt National Park different from anywhere I have hiked before ■ snow for our drinks and meals, as there was no landscape. running water. The toilets, which included a unisex urinal, were holes in the floor with barrels Below: Hot steam underneath, which had to be transported down to rises amongst the coast periodically to be emptied. snow-covered Trekking in Iceland black rhyolite The next day, the mist was still down when we mountains on the By Nicky Hore, Features Editor were leaving the hut and, to make things worse, it Landmannalaugar was raining and windy on our way down to Skogar. Trail. Iceland’s most popular trek doesn’t actually We came to a ford in the river, which was have a name. It consists of the Laugavegur Trail, impassable, so we backtracked and were lucky to which runs south from Landmannalaugur to find a footbridge. It was just as well, as otherwise we Thorsmork, and then continues as the would have had to return to the hut, even though it Fimmvorduhals Trail to Skogar on the south was booked out for that night. coast. Arriving in Skogar, we were allowed into the As Lar Matthews describes in the main article, reception area of the local museum to change into it is possible to start sections of the trail from dry clothes and then literally had to pour the water either end or from Thorsmork. The Laugavegur from our boots outside. Photos: Gunnar Sigurðarson (Thingvellir), Nicky Hore (hot spring) (hot Hore Nicky (Thingvellir), Sigurðarson Gunnar Photos: Trail is 55 kilometres long and the second section over the Fimmvorduhals Pass is 22km. Usually the full 77km trek is completed over six or seven days. Most trekkers use the services of travel companies for transport from Reykjavik, to book accommodation in the huts, and for the expertise of their guides. Independent travel is another option, however, and camping is also possible. Both options keep the costs down, but they require good preparation. Food and a sleeping bag need to be carried on the trek, as the mountain huts are basic, though warm and dry. The weather can change quickly in Iceland and, in the summer, despite up to twenty-three hours of daylight, it is advisable to carry full rain gear, wind proofs and additional warm clothes. River crossing shoes will also definitely be required, and the boots that you wear to walk in the Irish mountains would be ideal for trekking in Iceland ■

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 47 ISLE OF SKYE

SCRAMBLES IN THE CUILLIN

Alan Tees scales some of his favourite peaks in the Cuillin on the Isle of Skye

t was July 1974 and we were in retreat from the Above: Sgurr na the aptly-named Waterpipe Gully. Then it was the Coire Lagan, an impressive corrie in the Cuillin, on h-Uamha, Isle of crenellated summit and seamed flanks of Sgurr na the Isle of Skye. My more experienced partner, Skye, Scotland. Stri, best viewed from Elgol. And finally, Sgurr na Billy Plews, had decided that to go beyond h-Uamha, a spur of Sgurr nan Gillean towering over Collie’s Ledge in poor visibility, with a rookie who Below: Bathers in Harta Coire. Because of their modest heights, these didn’t know what an abseil was (never mind not the Fairy Pools beauties are often clear when all above and behind knowingI how to do one), was at best inadvisable. (the biggest are hidden in the murk. Although I didn’t actually get to see the Cuillin on tourist attraction that occasion, I was captivated, obsessed even. I used of the Cuillin) Sgurr na Stri (494m) to fantasise about walking out of my boring job in with Sgurr an This peak has a very long approach from, well, Ballymena, catching the early boat to Stranraer and Fheadain behind. anywhere, so it is best to take a boat in from Elgol driving non-stop to Glenbrittle, then a grim, midge- to Loch Coriusk. You can cross the Coruisk outflow infested backwater on Skye. It is better now, some say. on stepping stones in most conditions and follow I have been back quite a few times since, more often the coastal path, with one bad step, which isn’t that than not with others whose main objective was a bad, south-east along the base of the mountain to complete traverse of the main Cuillin Ridge. I joined a broad, grassy saddle (GR 504 186). The SSE them once, but opted out about halfway along. Don’t buttress gives a 2-star, grade 2/3 scramble to the get me wrong, I love scrambling. I also like Victoria summit, which is well described in the Scottish sponge but I wouldn’t consider eating a whole cake at Mountaineering Club’s Skye Scrambles guide. I think one sitting. Better one slice of the Cuillin at a time, I just followed my nose, choosing or avoiding methinks, and savour it. The peaks that caught my eye there weren’t always the highest. First, it was Sgurr an Fheadain from the Sligachan/Glenbrittle Road, its striking profile split by

➤ Alan Tees has been a member of Mountaineering Ireland for over forty years and is a past President. He is an all-round outdoor enthusiast and an instigator of the Glover Highlander and the Climbfest. He likes to climb during the warmer months and to hillwalk for the rest of the year. Alan edited the 2001 Donegal Rock Climbing Guide, produced the Scrambles in Ulster and guide, and more recently assisted in the production of Irish Peaks. Photographs: Alan Tees Alan Photographs: 48 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 obstacles, to the summit, which is greatly fissured Above: Sgurr na home, other than perhaps a murky photo and a few with great boulders. If the main ridge is obscured, Stri from Elgol. midge bites. It is easy to draw some comparisons with there are still amazing views down over stunning Loch ‘The Stairway to Heaven’ in Fermanagh, which is Coruisk and out to Rhum and Eigg. Best to descend Below: Bidean certainly also a catchy name and image, circulated on north and then west to the stepping stones, hoping Druim nan Ramh social media, that draws huge crowds. However, the you are in time to catch the last boat out. The from Sgurr an pools are natural and were always there. Whilst there alternative doesn’t bear thinking about, unless you Fheadain. are any number of similar pools all over Scotland, can get into the hut. these just got handed celebrity status. Leaving the snappers and dippers behind to the Sgurr na h-Uamha (736m) mercy of the midges, we climbed The Spur, a 2-star I first noticed this peak from Druim nan Ramh above grade 2 scramble taking the ridge left of Waterpipe Loch Coruisk, its K2-like profile rising from Harta Coire Gully, with no need for a rope. We had the route to and totally eclipsing all its loftier neighbours. I was ourselves, though on our descent there were three back a couple of years later but, being on my own, I other parties on it. A fine short day and a good taster opted to pass on the Harta Face and take a rising to Skye scrambling, with parking and the approach traverse from Glen Sligachan to the connecting ridge now much easier, provided you don’t mind the crowds. between it and Sgurr Beag, leaving only a short climb No longer an obsession, the Cuillin nevertheless still to the top. It looked wet, slimy and exposed, so I have an ongoing attraction for me and I would really opted for another ascent of the easier Sgurr nan like to go back there again in 2021, when the current Gillean. I would like to go back and do either the Covid-19 crisis has been sorted out. It would be nice to Naismith Parker route on the South Ridge or the stick around long enough to go to all the places I have Pilkington Route, the original route of ascent in 1887, never visited before. That would not just be the Cuillin both grade 3 scrambles. Ridge, but also the remote, inaccessible corries, the gullies and the ramps, to really get to know the Cuillin ■ Sgurr an Fheadain (689m) Another shapely spur of the Cuillin, most often viewed from the twisty, single-track Glenbrittle Road (if you can take your eye off the road for long enough), and driven past many times en route to some more lofty objective. Pointy and cleft by Waterpipe Gully, it presents a unique profile. It finally got onto my ‘must do’ list for the 2020 post-lockdown Scottish trip. When we got there, we had to dramatically rethink our preconception that we were approaching a low- profile, unfrequented mountain. Directed into a massive new car park and charged a fiver, we joined the hordes descending a well-constructed path to the Fairy Pools, a series of small cascades and pools in the river emanating from the base of the mountain. Our remote mountain was now the backdrop for a million selfies, as the Fairy Pools have become the main tourist product of the Cuillin and Skye. Prior to this there was little in the Cuillin for the tourist to take Photographs: Alan Tees Alan Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 49 ICE CLIMBING

ICE CLIMBING IN THE ROCKIES

Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh goes ice climbing with friends in the Canadian Rockies

Note: Canadian Ice Climbing Grades Above: Naoise Ó Winter Ice – WI (from WI1 to WI7) Muircheartaigh on Mixed climbing, ice and rock – M P2 of Whiteman Mount Dennis, Field, British Columbia Falls (WI6). t was a 5.00am start in mid-February, 2019. Right: Naoise on Four of us had travelled to climb ice and mixed Physiotherapy routes on Mount Dennis in British Columbia. (WI5, M7), Evan The weather was cold and calm in the valley, Thomas Creek. although we saw signs of wind high above, notI an uncommon occurrence but potentially dangerous with movement of the snow cover on the faces. After a little deliberation, we decided the risks were acceptable and marched into our routes along the fringes of an avalanche debris field. Pilsner is graded Winter Ice 6 (WI6), with the crux forming a 40m dead-vertical and free-standing pillar

➤ Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh is a native of the Kingdom of Kerry and took to the mountains from a young age. He has walked and climbed extensively throughout Ireland and around the world. Having been introduced to winter climbing by his mentors growing up, his passion for committing and technical climbing has naturally led him to search for steep winter routes. Photographs: Ben Sanford Media Ben Sanford Photographs: 50 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 of dripping wet and chandeliered ice. It is a formidable beauty and a testament to the skill and nerve of the first ascensionists in 1978, who had nothing like the aggressive curved-shaft ice tools or the fast-placing screws that modern innovation has afforded us. Leaving the belay cave through a hole in the pillar, we could hear Doug Hollinger’s progress as his grunts and kicks echoed through the hollow ice, and he occasionally cursed a stuck tool or the lack of solid ice for protection. Ice crashed down as he cleared a vertical path through the wet chandeliers. Reaching the top, shivering and soaked to the jocks, Doug belayed Ben Sanford up, leaving him there at the top of the climb to shoot pictures of Taylor Sullivan and I ascending Traditional Ale. As we roped up, heavy spindrift spilled down alongside the route. We briefly discussed the possibility of something bigger coming down, but we felt safe in the overhanging terrain and carried on. Doug scurried Above: Ben out of my mind, every gap in my clothing filled with back to the car to dry out. Sandford cold snow. Daggers from above rained down, narrowly Traditional Ale (WI5, M7) climbs steep mixed beneath the missing me. ground by the Pilsner Pillar, finishing up a free-hanging Stanley Glancing down, I saw Taylor and Ryan running for dagger and joining the top half of the pillar to finish. Headwall. cover as the slope they were standing on was dragged Balancing my mono-point crampons on little edges into the debris. I saw Ryan lose his footing and get and searching above for thin hook placements, I Right: Gerry dragged towards the churning mass before my sight ➤ scratched my way up the steep rock to gain the Dumouchel dagger, and higher, to some rusty old pegs, which I (left) and Taylor happily clipped. Sullivan At the top, Ben and I delighted at the climbs, as I following the belayed Taylor. I felt his weight on the rope and tried team’s ‘FA’ to call out. However, except for the faint sound of (first ascent) of cursing carried on the wind, communication was Sick Day (WI3, impossible owing to the noise from one of the M2) on Storm Rockies’ massive trains, which was passing below. Mountain. Knowing it would be passing for quite some time, and figuring that Taylor had swung into free space beneath the overhang, I lowered him to the ground. Then I, set up an abseil and descended, leaving Ben on the spacious ledge. Several metres down a free-hanging abseil, having cleared enough daggers for a safe retreat, I heard a noise. It was that deep grumbling sound that I had read about and heard of in stories but until then never experienced myself. There was no mistaking what was to come. My insides clenched in nervous tension. Seconds later a tsunami of snow erupted from the top of the cliff, the bulk of which was luckily sent sailing over my head. The torrent of snow pummelled me as I clung to the rope. I was gripped Photographs: Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh Photographs: Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 51 ICE CLIMBING

was obscured by powder in the air. The sky Above: Naoise if you can find your way into them. darkened and the deafening noise grew more bridging the dagger Climbing there is always an adventure, often violent for what seemed like an eternity. After it on Cascade requiring long ski approaches or 4x4 driving with no passed, light powder dust was still settling and the Kronenbourg (WI5). lifts or phone service, adding to the feeling of air was filled with shouting, as we checked in with exposure. It has long been a testing ground for ice each other. Below: Naoise and climbers, and a winter climbing paradise. Amazingly, Taylor had managed to catch Ryan, Ben Sanford on The western Rockies take the brunt of the heavy who was now sitting clutching an injured knee but Rainbow Serpent maritime snow, leaving a lower volume of crisp, dry otherwise unharmed. We roared up to the top, but (WI6). powder to be dropped over the eastern side. Freeze- heard nothing from Ben. The bloody train was still melt cycles of cold temperatures, sometimes passing below! Minutes passed as we scanned extreme, and warm Chinook winds bring to life some the debris field, shouting and searching for a red of the most spectacularly sculpted ice lines jacket amongst the mangled trees and scattered imaginable. There are steep ice spills over sheer rocks. mountain faces everywhere you look. Long mountain “Aye, mate?” Ben’s unmistakeable Australian ice lines like Polar Circus (WI5), steep featured pillars accent drew our gaze upward. What a relief to see like Curtain Call (WI6) and ephemeral lines such as his head sticking out from the top of the route! He Sea of Vapours (WI6/7), that can come and go in a had taken cover under the rock I was anchored to, as the avalanche roared past. Checking in with each other on the ground, it became apparent what had happened to Taylor. He was missing half a front tooth after getting too close to the back of his ice tool when it popped off a delicate placement. With only a missing tooth and some torn ligaments between the four of us, we had escaped very lightly and had learnt some important lessons about the power of the mountains. Winter ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies The Canadian Rockies are a range of astounding beauty, a true wilderness in places, the likes of which is uncommon in western Europe. Flying into Calgary over the prairies, you are confronted by a wall of mountains as far as the eye can see, hiding lifetimes of skiing and climbing of every discipline, Photographs: Ben Sanford Media (Cascade Kronenbourg) Media (Cascade Ben Sanford Photographs: 52 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 matter of days, tell a story of daring ice climbing Above: Naoise on Sorcerer sooner than we expected, which was a spanning half a century. Rainbow Serpent huge confidence boost for what was to come. Our Since the late 1960s, visionary pioneers of our (WI6). elation that day was flattened a bit after we drove discipline, such as Swiss climber Urs Kallen and the pickup through a river ice-shelf and had to South African/Canadian Dave Cheesemond, along Below: Ben spend a night out in -25°C. with American Jeff Lowe and his contemporaries Sanford after a Nonetheless, we were keen for more of it, so we from the mid-1970s, have left an historical mark successful climb got cold and scared on many more routes through these routes, each generation laying the on Ice Nine (WI6). throughout the Rockies, including dream climbs of groundwork for the next, shaping the great alpinists mine, including Rainbow Serpent (WI6) and Ice Nine of our time, such as American Steve House and the (WI6). late Marc-André Leclerc from Canada. We worked our way through a progression of steep ice routes over two winter seasons, leading us Moving to the Rockies to some wild routes and unforgettable experiences, It was a single photograph that prompted me to from encounters with wolves, new routes, move to the Rockies in 2018 – a photograph of successes, failures and the odd close call. Still, we The Sorcerer, a stunning 210m streak of WI5 ice set in only scratched the surface; there are lifetimes of the back of a limestone amphitheatre in the Ghost climbing to be done in the Rockies ■ River area of Alberta. At the time, I knew little about where the route was and felt that it would be well above my abilities. Nevertheless, I was looking for somewhere to go, so I went. I had a lot to learn and was incredibly fortunate to make solid partnerships early on and to be welcomed into a climbing community full of people more than willing to share their knowledge. While working as a ski patroller at one of the resorts, my climbing partners and I started ticking our way through the classics and, much to our delight, up through the grades. Thanks to a solid climbing partner, with no shortage of psyche, we

Photographs: Ben Sanford Media (Rainbow Serpent), Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh (Ice Nine) Naoise Ó Muircheartaigh Serpent), Media (Rainbow Ben Sanford Photographs: climbed the goal route of The

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 53 Club support

Written by Ruth Whelan, Club Support Meetings Hillwalking Development Several Club and Member Support Meetings were held by Zoom during September 2020 Officer

This year’s Club Support tailored to the clubs’ needs, sharing a car with someone Meetings were held online but all topics were addressed Key points from outside of your due to the ongoing Covid-19 on the evening. Covid-19 Updates and household. restrictions. Four meetings in The meeting was hosted by concerns as of Sport Ireland advised that total were held during the Ruth Whelan, the Hillwalking September 2020 you should not share private month of September, one for Development Officer, There was a lot of discussion vehicles with people from each province, to enable supported by Damien on how clubs were managing outside your household. If clubs to engage with other O’Sullivan, Climbing Officer, with the restrictions, parking this is not possible, such as in clubs in their region. Helen Lawless, Access and concerns, group sizes and the case of an emergency, The main purpose of the Conservation Officer, and trying to keep numbers low. face coverings should be meetings was to provide Jane Carney, Training Officer, One of the main topics worn when sharing a vehicle. clubs with an opportunity to who were all on hand to discussed throughout was The advice from the raise questions and concerns, answer any specific that of car-pooling. There government is that car- to network with other clubs questions the clubs might was lots of conversation pooling with anyone from in their region, and to share have. around possible solutions to outside your household could knowledge and experiences. Overall, fifty clubs were this issue that is being faced potentially increase the risk of Clubs were asked to submit represented at these by clubs. Mountaineering catching Covid-19. Therefore, any specific topics they meetings, with lots of Ireland has raised the issue it is not advised to car-share. wanted to discuss in advance interaction from everyone with Sport Ireland for The practicalities around of the meetings to ensure present, and an array of clarification, to see if there additional advice for contact

Photograph: Chris Montgomery Photograph: that all meetings were topics discussed. are any safe options for tracing, recording and 54 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 clarification on the practical activities from taking place. implications of the Level 5 We would urge all clubs to restrictions for hillwalking and remain in contact with their climbing. members, particularly those Mountaineering Ireland is who may be more isolated also engaging with the due to their living government to seek an circumstances. amendment to the domestic Mountaineering Ireland is travel restriction of 5km in here to support all clubs and Level 5, to allow hillwalkers members, so please contact and climbers to participate in us directly if we can be of any their activities in a safe and assistance. responsible manner in the At the start of November, longer term of living with Mountaineering Ireland Covid-19. launched a series of online The physical and mental Gathering for a navigation course on Croagh Patrick during chats, presentations, skills European Week of Sport in September health benefits of hillwalking and climbing are well workshops and lectures. documented. Research These events hopefully will storing data, and following clubs, including the additional indicates that outdoor help us to keep in touch and enforcing government online training supports environments pose a low risk throughout lockdown and guidelines, were also available on of Covid-19 transmission. keep our passion for discussed. Lots of clubs are www.mountaineering.ie, Considering these two hillwalking and climbing alive. getting interest from new details on the training grants factors together provides a members, but a number of that are available, and on strong basis for reconsidering Keep an eye on our them are not in a position to GDPR guidelines, particularly the 5km restriction, which website• and social media take them on due to in relation to Covid-19. effectively prevents our pages for further events that capacity. Ways to retain club activities and other physical may be added ■ The difficulties in running members and to bring in new AGMs at the moment, and members were also how best to approach them, discussed, and how training were discussed. within clubs, and fostering The discussions also looked independence amongst club at whether there were any members, can support this. changes to access due to the Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the current restrictions. Action from book service previously operated by Joss Restrictions on climbing Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks were also considered, and the meetings and maps to almost any part of the world. impact they have on young For the walker, there is a large collection of people training for The names and details of Cicerone guides and books, or the wider competitions. • club contacts were selection of books and guides distributed It was also highlighted that circulated to those in by Cordee which also includes many many of the problems attendance at each climbing guides. Books reviewed in the currently arising from the meeting, so that clubs Irish Mountain Log can usually be influx of people to the hills could connect with each purchased through Joss Books with a are being caused by other other at a local level. members’ discount. To place an order, users of the hills and not ring the Mountaineering Ireland office We communicated necessarily members of on (01) 6251115 or email • clarification on our advice Mountaineering Ireland. [email protected]. on Covid-19 concerns. Members can help the situation by becoming We published advice on advocates for • how to run AGMs online Mountaineering Ireland’s and circulated this to all messages, or be our eyes on clubs. the ground for issues related to access, littering, parking, Note: At the time of writing, group size and behaviour, the has and responsible recreation. moved to Level 5 of Covid-19 Other general discussions restrictions. Mountaineering included details on what Ireland continues to engage resources are available to with Sport Ireland to seek Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 55 Access & Conservation

Written by Helen Lawless, Access & Conservation Minister rejects Sperrins windfarm Officer

Mountaineering Ireland welcomed the news on October 26th, 2020, that Northern Ireland’s Infrastructure Minister, Nichola Mallon, had refused permission for the largest ever application for a windfarm in Northern Ireland. The 33- turbine Doraville development was proposed for a location to the south of the Glenelly Valley, at the heart of the Sperrin Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). The application was rejected because it would cause considerable harm to the landscape interest of a large part of the Sperrin AONB and to its unique archaeological, cultural and tourism assets. This decision vindicated the concerns expressed in Mountaineering Ireland’s 2017 submission on this application. Mountaineering Ireland’s submission was made in the context of supporting the 'The 19 turbines in the Brockaboy windfarm in the northern Sperrins have an overall height of 136m. principle of sustainable, renewable energy development, but also adhering to our regarding proposals for a windfarm near observations from a chartered strategic objective to be a voice for the Hilltown in the western Mournes to landscape architect. protection of mountain landscapes. A Newry Mourne and Down District As the proposed Gruggandoo greater diversity in renewable energy councillors. Dawson highlighted that the windfarm is considered to be regionally sources, improvements in grid capacity, proposed windfarm would be ‘industrial significant, it needs to be decided on by better energy storage solutions and the exploitation’ of part of the Mourne the Department for Infrastructure. re-powering of older windfarms will all AONB, an area that has been so Although Newry Mourne and Down assist in achieving the UK target of net designated in recognition of its scenic District Council’s Planning Officer zero carbon emissions by 2050, without beauty. advised that the council should the further loss of undeveloped scenic The Mourne proposal is for eight recommend that the Department refuse landscapes. turbines with an overall height of 142.5 the application, councillors instead The scale of the Doraville proposal (33 metres at Gruggandoo, south of decided to vote on a motion calling on turbines of 136 to 149 metres in height) Hilltown. This is the third attempt by the Minister Nichola Mallon to refer the and its central location within the AONB same developers to secure planning application to a public inquiry before the were key concerns. This huge wind approval on this site. In examining the Planning Appeals Commission. That factory would have industrialised an latest proposals, Mountaineering Ireland motion was passed overwhelmingly by important scenic landscape and identified issues with the landscape and the councillors, so it now seems likely visual impact assessment submitted by detracted from the quality of visitor that Mountaineering Ireland will have to the developers. Mountaineering Ireland is experiences in the Sperrins into the prepare its case for a public inquiry on strongly of the view that this future. In September 2019, this application. development would completely Mountaineering Ireland emphasised While the Sperrins decision is these and related concerns to a Planning undermine the integrity of the AONB extremely positive, both these Appeals Commission (PAC) public inquiry designation in the Mournes and that it applications bring into focus the weak on Doraville. The Minister's decision was would be unacceptably damaging to the legal protection for Northern Ireland’s in line with the PAC recommendation. visual amenity and landscape character of the area. most highly valued and exceptional The development would also diminish landscapes. Windfarm proposed the quality of current and future in the Mournes recreation experiences in the Mournes, Read our submissions News of the refusal of the Doraville thereby reducing the economic benefit Mountaineering Ireland’s submissions on application came on the same day that that recreation and tourism bring to the the Doraville and Gruggandoo windfarms Mountaineering Ireland Board member area. Mountaineering Ireland submitted can be accessed on the Downloads page Dawson Stelfox presented a robust objection to the proposal in within the Access and Environment Mountaineering Ireland’s concerns October 2020, complemented by section of www.mountaineering.ie ■ 56 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Responsible Enjoyment of Special Places with Empathy, Care and Trust Many happy returns

This has been a tough year for everyone. the experience sweeter. We will all get When reconnecting with the places Especially tough for those who have lost back there again. you love, try to include a socially loved ones, and for those who have lost When we do, let’s extend our distanced chat with someone living their jobs. For hillwalkers and climbers, appreciation to the landowners and there. Listen to how it’s been for them missing the activities we love has been local communities in Ireland’s upland and put yourself in their shoes. As cafés another dimension to a difficult year. and coastal areas. It has been a tough and other businesses in upland areas re- Those who got back to the mountains and worrying time for them too. For open, they will need our support. Take and crags over the summer experienced those in popular locations, add to that the opportunity to express your the wonderful feeling of returning to the sense of being overwhelmed by gratitude for the enjoyment we get from their happy place – the sense of space, visitor numbers, traffic congestion and our time in the mountains. Those the air, the views and the physical having to deal with the litter left behind conversations will help ensure we all exertion. The period of absence made by a minority of people. have many happy returns ■

Current Access & Conservation activities In the last issue of the Irish Mountain Log (IML 135, pages 38-39), we provided an overview of Mountaineering Ireland’s Access and Conservation work in 2019. Here, we briefly outline a selection of projects we’re currently involved with.

National Outdoor repair work along the Pilgrim Route. Work Recreation Strategy should be happening on the ground by Mountaineering Ireland is participating in the time you read this. a Working Group tasked with developing a new National Outdoor Recreation ‘Walking With Wildlife’ Strategy. The new Strategy will provide a Mountaineering Ireland is currently vision and an overarching framework for updating its popular, and long out of the growth and development of outdoor print, Walking With Wildlife guide to key recreation in Ireland. flora and fauna in Northern Ireland’s uplands. Versions of this laminated fold- Review of the Walks Scheme out guide will follow later for the east, Mountaineering Ireland is providing input west and south-west of the country. to a current review of the Walks Scheme, under which landowners are If you have queries on these or other aspects• of Mountaineering Ireland’s Access paid to maintain sections of designated and Conservation work, please contact walking routes on their land. Our input [email protected] ■ has been mainly in relation to the potential for a Walks Scheme model for the uplands, and how this could be linked to Comhairle na Tuaithe’s Mountain Access Project.

Heath Milkwort, one of the species included in Wicklow Upland Path the new Walking With Wildlife leaflet. This low- Condition Survey growing plant, found on acid, peaty soils and Working with the Wicklow Uplands blanket bogs, flowers from May to September, Council, Wicklow Mountains National but flowers may be found during the winter. Park and others, Mountaineering Ireland Photograph: Zöe Devlin has been involved in commissioning a path condition survey of over 100km of Croagh Patrick eroded hillwalking routes in the Wicklow Mountaineering Ireland has provided Mountains. The survey will identify paths support to the Croagh Patrick and sections which are in need of repair Stakeholders group in its recent

Photograph: Zöe Devlin Zöe Photograph: and prioritise these. recruitment of a team to undertake path Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 57 Training

Scenes from and Quarry during the European Week of Sport in September

Written by Jane Carney, News for members Training Officer Jane Carney reports on training news and events run by the Training Office

excited to announce that this support has been promised Forthcoming meets again for 2021. The Youth Alpine Bursary supports young aspiring alpinists and helps subsidise course costs for those We are planning for the usual Mountaineering Ireland meets availing of the Alpine walking, mountaineering and climbing next year, but obviously whether or not we will actually be able courses. Your first trip to the Alps should be seen as the start to hold them will very much depend on how the Covid-19 of a lifetime of new adventures. Mountaineering Ireland is pandemic progresses in the coming months. keen to support our future alpinists.

■ Winter Meet 2021 Saas Grund offers free lift passes for resident visitors, just one The 2021 Winter Meet is planned for Inchree, Onich, Scotland, of the many benefits of this fabulous location. February 13-20th, 2021. Bookings are open! We will continue to offer courses there and opportunities to The online information evening on October 20th, 2020, went meet others and expand your skills repertoire as alpinists. well and was well attended. An information pack and the Participants can avail of the Alpine walking, mountaineering booking form are available on the website. There is a short and climbing courses. They can also learn to lead climb and video on the Mountaineering Ireland YouTube channel experience using Alpine huts and trails for the first time. covering the key aspects of the meet. There is already snow The Alps offer a lifetime of new venues to explore, on the ground there! Please book early. See you there, accessible to meet the needs, aspirations and abilities government guidance permitting! ■ typically sought by clubs, individuals, families and students. ■ Summer Alpine Meet 2021 The meet sees the experienced mentoring the inexperienced in an apprentice-style pathway, and others following the The 2021 Alpine Meet is planned for Saas Grund, Switzerland, more formal guide/client approach. July 3-17th, 2021. Bookings are open! An online information evening at 7.00pm on January 25th, Courses are run at cost and not for profit, and are just one 2021, will provide all the details for this event. of the many benefits of your Mountaineering Ireland membership. Youth bursary places will be available for aspirant alpinists aged 18 to 25 years for 2021 See you in Saas Grund, July 3-17th, 2021, government guidance permitting! Of the 65-plus members who attended the Alpine Meet in 2019, 50% were in the youth category, aged 18-25. This was Please consult the Mountaineering Ireland website, undoubtedly due to the very generous bursary received by www.mountaineering.ie, for more information, to book and Mountaineering Ireland for youth alpinists in 2019. We are for updates ■ Photographs: Jane Photographs: Carney 58 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Photographs: Jane Carney Week of Sport, whichran from September 23 Ireland, SportIreland continue to monitor andupdate as the situation develops. their return to businessand training in the future. The Training Officewill of work. We willcontinue to supportproviders andcandidates pending providers for their cooperation and supportduring this secondcessation remained possibleinNorthernIreland. Iwould againlike to thank all ceased in the Republic of Ireland due to the Covid-19 restrictions, but during the week were also supported by Healthy Ireland healthier andmore active lifestyle. InIreland, many of the events held crisis andreduce obesity levels by encouraging Europeans to embrace a activity in the EU. European Week of Sportaims to tackle the inactivity which aims to increase the level of participation insportandphysical events runby Local SportsPartnerships. people andprovided funding to multipleflagshipevents aswell aslocal Ireland during the week. the country to #BeActive. for the needsof everyone in these difficult times, helpingeveryone in mixture of onlineandoffline events available indifferent sports to cater Winter 2020 or deleting any outstanding course reports. go-ahead to switch isgiven. A huge thank you to providers for completing Providers are to continue to use the existing reporting system until the training course reporting ■ and participants are completing pre-course questionnaires. indoor sessions. Protocols for equipment cleaninghave beenadopted to provide interactive classes, to helpremove or reduce the needfor and wearing face coverings where necessary andpractical. are verbalising the need to stay 2mapart, engagingingood handhygiene and check update emails. Duringany permitted course delivery, trainers Please see the latest guidanceon the Mountaineering Ireland website ■ ■ News for providers Mountaineering Ireland participated in this year’s European Week of Sport2020 twenty different locations under the Women InSport Sport Women climbers inDalkey Quarry duringEuropean Week of Sport As the national coordinating body for European Week of Sportin European Week of SportisaEuropean Commission-ledinitiative, Sport Ireland hoped that this year’s event would inspire even more In 2019, anestimated 110,196 people took partinover 800events in Online platforms are beingusedfor briefings, preparatory sessionsand Move to the MTUKICandidate Management System (CMS) for Protocols duringCovid-19 In September, delivery of the by organising twenty introductory rock climbingsessions in coordinated the events in this year’s European NGB awards, instruction rd to the 30 to the European Weekof banner. th and ■ . There was a leadership again need to wait for areturn to the mountains case againshortly. Participants andcandidates will return to course delivery, whichwe hope willbe the Providers andleaders have enjoyed abrief periodof recreation, relaxation, wellbeing andadventure. ■ ■ any training queries, on016251112or 016251115 Please contact the Training Officer, Jane Carney, your interest. sessions. Pleasecontact the Training Office ■ action Call to education courses. restrictions, except for second-level and third-level ceased in the Republic of Ireland due to government courses and registration Training awards Stay safe there! out We are back to exploring our 5km radius for Registration We are lookingfor further presenters for online • • • • • • • • • • • • • Key dates 2020-21 guidance; onlineoptions willbeusedasalternatives where appropriate. Events mayonlyrunif permitted Please see the website for events andbookingsor All events willadhere to the current government 30 19 September 3-17 8 May 13 5-8 13-20 1 30-31 25 4 contact the st th th are runninginNorthern Ireland, but they have th th February th th June December th March th September January November by the current government guidance. March th st July January February for training Training Office Please bookearly! Training continued next page... Online MTBIMeeting Skills Workshops(TBC) Skills Workshops(TBC) guidance permitting Mournes (TBC), Covid-19 Train the Trainers, Wicklow/ Mountain Leader Assessment Winter Meet, Onich, Scotland Information Evening, 7-8pm Online Summer Alpine Meet Online MTBIMeeting Workshop Online Senior Providers Online MTBIMeeting Online MTBIMeeting Online MTBIMeeting Saas Grund, Switzerland SummerMeet, Alpine courses Irish Mountain Log for further details. remains open, and to express ■ with ■ 59 Photograph: xxxxx ■ analysis withmembers of your club. get together onZoom afterwards to share apost-session members from the comfort of your own homes? You couldalso Why not watch a video or the live sessionwith your fellow club Make anevening of it! free. Mountaineering Ireland andattend allof these workshops for If you are planning to book four sessions, why not join Free to members, €10for non-members! these strange andrestrictive times. sessions onadiverse range of topics to supportusall through attracting good numbers. Pleasebook onlinefor these free These workshops are proving to be very popular andare ■ News for members defines usasaspecies, an uniquely humanskill that upright on two feet isa walking to us:how walking expert to explain allabout Shane O’Mara, College Dublin, the author, Brain Research at Trinity As Professor of Experimental ISBN 978-1-784707-57-6 Vintage (2020), 224pp, £6.99 (ppbk), Bodley Head(2019), Norton (2020), By ShaneO’Mara All the benefits of walking, onhillsor on the flat Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. available on the Training pages/Training Downloads on the Leaders, Training (continued from previous page)... 60 WE WALK ANDWHYIT’S THE NEW SCIENCEOF HOW IN PRAISEOF WALKING: GOOD FOR US Please see the Online Skills Workshops Irish Mountain Log and the is the ideal is the Good Practice guidelines for Hillwalkers, National Guidelinesfor Climbing& Walking Books whether upamountain, down must start walking more, are risks to our health. We increasingly sedentary, there our lives are becoming and our stress levels fall. As creatively, our mood improves motion, we think more our brains. With our mindsin slow or turn back the ageing of and repair organs andcan posture. Ithelps to protect good for our musclesand good for mind andbody, and popular recreational activity is just abouteveryone. This read for allwalkers, whichis including our socialworld. relationship with the world, posture changed our inner GPSsystem. Our upright crowded city andusingour balancing, navigating ina mechanical magicof nervous system perform the revealing how the brain and recent research isnow millions of years; andhow how walking evolved over which we take for granted; incredibly miraculous skill, This isa very interesting the outdoors. hills andcrags, with those lessexperienced than yourselves in the three questions to ask yourself before headingout to the thought soburdensome that every illness, Iknow no of wellbeing, Iwalk away from day Iwalk myself into astate the reader. For example, “Every philosophers are enrichingfor famous authors and areas. rambles inandclose to urban avail of the many enjoyable dwellers shouldexplore and meaningfully to others. City gesturessignal to by freeing our handsfor Walking makes usmore social or climbs that suit them best. all ages canaccess the walks and rambling groups available, love! With even more walking natural way to meet your true for life! What better, more – outdoors, making new friends particularly in the great rambling withfriends, social walking isstressed, societies willbebetter for it. shopping. We andour activities, to work or for the to apark or inour normaldaily ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ Please submitapplications for the June-December period. ■ others the necessary navigation skills. weather conditions, checking the weather forecast andlearning selection, beingproperly equippedfor the terrain andpossible responsibly andparkingconsiderately, andin relation to route relation to taking home your litter, leaving no trace, camping role models the Walk Safely updates on the Mountaineering Ireland website. for many Ramblers, apartner Quotations from some I liked how the value of Please continue to help Please provide those newer to the outdoors with Please continue to note andobserve the Please continue to share the Please see the newly launched Training Grant applications ■ for responsible andsafe recreation, particularly in leaflet) on the Mountaineering Ireland website. sharemessages these AdventureSmart Happy Hikingleaflet (formerly Coisithe Óige, founder-member of Na and An Taisce, life-member of An member of Mountaineering Ireland President of the IrishRamblers Club, Seán QuinnHillwalker, Founder- in their own best interests. to others to get involved now, also astrong encouragement hill andmountain climbers. Itis whether lower level ramblers or excellent read for allwalkers, all need.” health-building prescription we “It is the simple, life-enhancing, to allof us. As the author says, activity that isfreely available and worthwhile recreational wonderful, useful, enjoyable creativity, of mood. brings aclarity of thinking, of thinking. Hesaid that walking body and the flow of creative between movement of the relationshipshowing thevital poems whileoutwalking, composed many of hislovely Kierkegaard. wrote Danishphilospher Søren one cannot walk away from it,” This interesting book isan Walking isalifeline, a William Wordsworth Covid-19 Guidance message, and and inform Winter 2020 positive Photograph: Calvin Torrans produces aninspirational memoir Irish climbinglegendwhobroke down barriers Winter 2020 non-midwife-approved should beable for…” (insert 30 weeks pregnant, so I Cuillin ridge whenshewas the climbed begun “Clare sentences recently have pregnant andmany of my this review, Iam35weeks hearing aboutit! As Iwrite might begetting sick of fact, I think my husband with memore than most. In but Clare’s book resonated my ‘go to’ andI’ve read many, community. members of the climbing welcoming, friendly, fun however, they were also two climbing. More importantly, were two legends inIrish and Ijust knew that they climbing togetheratwall the her husband, CalvinTorrans, my life. Iwould seeher and climbing took centre stage in materialise at the same time Ropes. author of Uncoilingthe time Imet Clare Sheridan, I don’t remember the first ISBN 978-1-78846-159-7 8 pages of photos, €18.99 (ppbk), Press (2020), 200pp, By Clare Sheridan IRISH CLIMBER MEMOIR OF A TRAILBLAZING ROPES: THE UNCOILING THE Mountaineering books are She simply seemed to Clare Sheridanbelow the Dibonaon the Écrins massif embellishment andno with nofluff, no succinctly andmodestly, partnership. Shedoes this the oneof their shared here: her own, Calvin’s and inspirational climbing stories interweave three somehow manages to work andcareful editing. She talent, hours uponhours of combination of natural that –I’m guessinga don’t know how Clare did Ropes 200 pages, Uncoilingthe one instead.” At less than short letter, soIwrote along didn’t have time to write a burst outlaughing. “Don’t limitme!” andwe argument withasimple towards the book mid- sometimes Ijust gesture camping, sowe should…,” or their two-week-oldbaby “Clare andCalvinbrought outdoor adventure here), or Mark Twain oncesaid, “I is relatively short, andI naturedness in the face of and the resilience andgood- raw passionfor the outdoors, permeate through them, the it is the attitudes to life that book that willstick withme; impressive climbsin this though, itisnot the remarkable. find itall the more leaving me, the reader, to but unremarked upon, and Alaska isrecounted well, the Himalayas, the Andes Ireland, Yosemite,the Alps, book. Seriousclimbingin and Iloved that about the the hero of her own story sensationalism. Clare isnot climb hard routes, Clare never have the strength to when theydid, theywould that, even in the rare cases and itwas accepted asfact women “girls don’t climb,” women were telling other adversity. Unexpectedly for me, At a time inIreland when that’s what Clare would do! longer seemy feet, because shoes, even though Icanno I have to laceupmy running life, dependson you. For me, yourself that littlebitmore in ditch the excuses andpush Ireland’s history, or simply climbing, delve deeper into climb harder, take up inspires; whether itis to to merit the read. alone ismore than enough and south) since the 1950s about life inIreland (north enjoy it. What is written connection withclimbing to You don’t need to have a something for every reader. that this book has could. because they because they loved itand they couldn’t. They climbed spite, becauseothers said Calvin didn’t climboutof bitterness or anger. Clare and this book was the lack of through uniquely for mein time, butwhat came hear stories like this all the few shortmonths. Yes, we back on the rock withina never climbagain, hewas soon sheclimbedhard. climbed anyway andpretty Oman andSaudi Arabia in placeslike Kenya, Namibia, big walls in Yosemite andZion member of IMC, hasclimbedon Vanessa Kirkpatrick Climber, past Uncoiling the Ropes Uncoiling the I shouldpoint outhere When Calvinwas told he’d

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winter 2020 winter reviews published books. of somerecently presents reviews Peter O’Neill Literary Editor knew they 61 Books

Guide to north Antrim coast covers all the bases

covered the Kerry, Dingle and Wicklow Ways, they now turn their attention to north Antrim with a circa six-day itinerary that combines the rarely- walked Moyle Way 26-mile (42km) with a trip to Rathlin Island, followed by the comparatively popular 32-mile (52km) Causeway Coast Way. Older guidebooks suggest connecting the Antrim Hills Way with the Moyle Way to create an even longer walk. Sadly, the loss of access over the Garron Plateau now means The Giant’s Causeway CAUSEWAY COAST WAY, WITH anyone tackling this route faces MOYLE WAY AND RATHLIN a 10-mile (16km) road march. is also detailed and up-to-date Way passes close to the ISLAND Back to the review: there are information on everything summits of both and By Eoin Reilly excellent photos and maps for from wildlife, accommodation, Knocklayd, but both the route Rucksack Readers (2020), 72pp, many each of the routes, along with transport and the geology of and this guidebook visit colour and b/w photos, and maps, detailed step-by-step the Giant’s Causeway, through neither. Otherwise, this is £12.99, ISBN 978-1-898481-93-5 instructions – hardly needed to local history and locations perfect for anyone seeking a on the Causeway Coast but from the ubiquitous Game of comprehensive guide to the Rucksack Readers is an helpful for the poorly Thrones. area, especially the first-time Edinburgh-based publisher signposted Moyle Way, Some readers might visitor. specialising in guidebooks for welcome encouragement to especially the very boggy James Butler Member of long-distance walks in the UK upland section between wander a little further from the Mountaineering Ireland, hillwalker and Ireland. Having already Trostan and Slieveanorra. There waymarked route. The Moyle and runner, based near Ballymena

Guide to Land’s End loop walk details every twist and turn

section in Cornwall of England’s longest waymarked long-distance trail, the South West Coastal Path. The path’s origins were to facilitate the coastguards, who moved from lighthouse to lighthouse, patrolling for smugglers. The first section of the trail opened in 1973 and it now stretches across four counties for more than 1,000 kilometres. The South West Coastal Path’s Land’s End Circuit takes Land’s End, Cornwall 3-6 days to walk, and the guide’s OSI map-like ubiquitous smartphone. walking directions in text, and LAND’S END CIRCUIT dimensions would be spot on Despite its handy size, the an abundance of photographs By Max Landsberg for this type of an outing. In guide contains sufficient and 1:35,000 maps. Rucksack Readers (2020), 72pp, many terms of weight, it is more fly practical information for I recommend this guide. It colour photos and 1:35,000 maps, swatter than door-stop. planning and preparation, plus would be a welcome aid to a £12.99, ISBN 978-1-898481-92-8 Coupled with rainproof paper some history and a summary walk in this beautiful part of England. and spiral-bound, open-flat of key features of the circuit This is another handy guide itself. Almost half of the guide’s pages, the Rucksack Readers David Ridgeway Hillwalker based in from Rucksack Readers. It format is a good design, more 72 pages describe the route in Dublin, has previously walked parts covers a 68-km (42-mile) comfortable to hold than the detail, using turn-by-turn of the South West Coastal Path Photographs: Diego_cue (Giant’s Causeway), Richard Croft (Land’s End) (Land’s Croft Richard Causeway), Diego_cue (Giant’s Photographs: 62 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Photograph: https://jastrzabpost.pl That makes her particularly number of the 8,000m peaks. among the first to climba Polish climbers whowere story of the generation of wrote Freedom Climbers, the Bernadette McDonald, The author of Winter 8000, ISBN 978-1-912560-38-7 colour photos, £24.00 (hdbk), 272pp, many b/w photos, 16ppof Vertebrate Publishing(2020), By Bernadette McDonald Winter ascents of the world’s highest mountains Winter 2020 ISBN 978-1-839810-17-6 photos, 3ppmaps, £24.00, English edition), 160pp, 8ppcolour Vertebrate Publishing (2020, 1 By Élisabeth Revol Gripping account of tragic climbonNangaParbat COLDEST SEASON MOUNTAINS IN THE HIGHESTTHE WORLD’S WINTER 8000: ON THE KILLER MOUNTAIN TO LIVE: FIGHTINGFOR LIFE CLIMBING also st without sensationalism, but kind,sufferingdescribe the to difficulty of climbsof any any book to convey the rivetting. Itcanbehard for Kildare at the time. Itisgrimly climber whowas livingin ‘Tomek’ Mackiewicz, Élisabeth Revol and of that period, involving of the more harrowing stories continuity carriedoninto one add winter pedigree. That experienceand teammates to who alsosought Polish Simone Moro and the arrival of climbers like the 8,000ers inwinter saw occurred. tragediesand triumphsthat made those ascents, and the teams andindividuals that effectofstories to tell the the generation isused to great Her knowledge of that ascents of those mountains. making the first winter the secondstage of that race, the pre-eminent climbers in because Polish climbers were well placed to write this book, reads almost cathartically. their situation. What follows into the building horror of twenty pages you are drawn mountains; within the first matches her style in the directness andclarity that Élisabeth Revol writes witha blinded andill. in winter, with Tomasz summit of an8,000m peak themselves aloneon the Mackiewicz and ago, whenÉlisabeth Revol Parbat that occurred onNanga ofaccount events thetragic gripping andpowerful To Live The later phaseof climbing Excellently authored, Tomasz ‘Tomek’ gives asuccinct, less thantwo years found Alex Txikon, Tomasz a Polish power of the narrative. anything, itonly adds to the other similar stories, but, if closermanyhome than to in Ireland, make ithitabit along with Tomek’s life here got. These recent memories, insane mediacoverage they unfoldingatand the thetime which provide more context. from present-day Revol, interspersions of thoughts nicely in places with intense immediacy isbroken she goes through. This anguish, fear andconfusion youcomprehend to the immediate feel that allows struggles iswritten withan Revol’s account of her Élizabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz in their last photo together book, but that attempt ended Polish climbers closed the might have beenfitting that Urubko and world today,including strongest alpinists in the involved someof the was aPolish expedition that The last major attempt onit without awinter ascent, K2. 8,000m mountain left in particular stands out. story of Elisabeth and Tomek book that diditsowell. The I’m not sure I’ve ever read a I remember those events There’s now just one Adam Bielecki. Denis It excellent book. the finalchapter of this force McDonaldinto rewriting they canget if they’re going to the luck andgood weather December isgoing to needall the mountain from this been announced. Everyone on expedition to K2hasrecently their toll. Anotherwinter the harsh conditions took and breakaway solobidsas in arguments, accusations mountaineer Kevin Duffy Rock climber and Club member of UCDMountaineering Seán Fortune can addupin the mountains. reminder of how little things whilst acting asasobering genuine tribute to Tomek, that Ifelt was anhonest and context. really puther efforts into take astep back that you can survive. Itisonly when you minimises her own heroics to Tomek andshealmost first thoughts are about describing her descent, her mountains isclear. Even while climbing partner and the and respect for both her Throughout itall, Revol’s love Overall, acaptivating book Irish Mountain Log Climber and 63 Books

Training manual that sets out the basics really well

popular and people were years of experience coaching well for anyone who needs drawn into the sport through national climbing teams. One advice about getting the most climbing walls, as well as via of the authors, Christophersen, out of their climbing ability. It is traditional routes such as is also a physiotherapist, and a fairly comprehensive book clubs and outdoor centres. A that expertise is reflected in that should take anyone a long training culture developed. the book’s treatment of way from their first route Part of that evolution was a climbing injuries. towards whatever grade they growing body of literature as The book is jammed with aspire to, while helping them to climbers wanted to find out techniques, physical and avoid falling into bad habits or how to get the best out of mental training and injury not falling into good ones. themselves and their time at prevention advice to get you As the authors note, the the crag or wall, rather than into a position to climb when knowledge of training for just pitching up and hoping to ready. It also has chapters on climbing is still in the foothills, THE CLIMBING BIBLE: improve. Books like Training for tactics and roping in the right so they have added a TECHNICAL, PHYSICAL AND Climbing by Eric Horst, and partners to take all that suggested reading list and MENTAL TRAINING FOR ROCK Dave McLeod’s 9 Out of 10 training outside. There are some websites that should tie CLIMBING Climbers Make the Same suggested training plans for a in with continued learning. By Martin Mobråten & Stian Mistakes, helped the training structured approach to However, I suspect that this Christophersen culture to gain a toe-hold in training, but you can still apply book will be sufficient for most climbers’ training needs and it climbers’ minds. a lot of the lessons, even if you Vertebrate Publishing (2020), 368pp, should be a while before they The latest addition to that want to just lay back and enjoy circa 400 colour photos, £30.00 top out and need something (hdbk), ISBN 978-1-912560-70-7 canon is The Climbing Bible. The it without taking that route. more. book harnesses the knowledge If that all sounds a bit dry As standards in climbing rose, of authors with 40 years of and technical, it’s not really. It Kevin Duffy Rock climber and competitions became more climbing between them and is just the basics set out really mountaineer Popular route for completing fifty tops in the Mournes

hours, the author has sensibly broken down the hillwalk of 93km with 6,193m of ascent into seven linear routes. These could reasonably separately be done as day walks. Plenty of route details are given about all of the walks, and the author’s local knowledge and love of the Mournes shine through. The routes do not always follow obvious lines but will interest CASSIE’S CHALLENGE: AN those with a more adventurous ADVENTURE IN THE MOURNE mind. The route maps are from On the Cassie’s Challenge route in the Mournes MOUNTAINS the 1:25k map and show the By Harry Teggarty general line, but walkers should Cassie, his late, mountain- the challenge of completing Self-published with S Design/Sean be able to navigate themselves. loving dog. the route in sections. McCrystal (2018), 100pp, many colour photos and map, £10.00 (ppbk). All As a Mourne Mountain Rescue The author has completed This interesting book is proceeds to go to Mourne Mountain Team volunteer himself, the the self-designed challenge available through the Mourne Rescue Team author emphasises the careful twice. There is a list (short!) of Mountain Rescue Team’s planning and personal those who have completed the website, This is a lovely book for anyone mountain skills that are challenge in under 24 hours, www.mournemrt.org/product/ who walks or runs in the essential before embarking on both supported and cassies-challenge. Proceeds Mournes. Despite a small any trip into the mountains. unsupported. Anyone from sales will go to support minority of mountain runners There is a multitude of the interested can log on to the team in its important work. who will take on the challenge author’s own photos, which is a cassieschallenge.com, but I of completing the fifty record of the landscape in can also see great interest Nicky Hore Hillwalker with Blayney mountain tops in twenty-four itself, including a couple of among hillwalkers in taking on Ramblers Photograph: cassieschallenge.com Photograph: 64 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 The 2020 mountain book awards

The 2020 Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival took place in early November. The winner of the Banff Festival’s Grand Prize for the Mountain Book Competition was Raven’s Witness: The Alaska Life of Richard K Nelson, by Hank Lentfer. That book also won the Jon Whyte Award for Mountain Literature (Non- fiction). Lentfer’s book is a biography of a modern-day John Muir set against the backdrop of Alaska’s wilderness, native cultures, the writing life and friendships rooted in nature. Among the other awards at Banff, the Adventure Travel Award went to Labyrinth of Ice: The Triumphant and Tragic Greely Polar Expedition, by Buddy Levy. The Mountain Fiction and Poetry Award was won by The Bear, by Andrew Krivak; the The Unremembered Places: Mountain Environment and Exploring Scotland’s Wild Histories, Natural History Award went to by Patrick Baker – a lyrical Wild Himalaya: A Natural History of exploration of Scotland’s regions the Greatest Mountain Range on of ‘rumour and folklore,’ of hidden Earth, by Stephen Alter; the places and often-forgotten tales. Guidebook Award to Crack Where There’s a Will: Hope, Grief Climbing: The Definitive Guide, by and Endurance in a Cycle Race Pete Whittaker (already reviewed Across a Continent, by Emily in the Irish Mountain Log); the Chappell –a book that deftly Climbing Literature Award to captures the physical and Emilio Comici: Angel of the psychological intensity of ultra- Dolomites, by David Smart; and distance cycling. the Special Jury Mention to The Uncrowned King of Mont Himalaya: A Human History, by Blanc: The Life of T Graham Brown, Ed Douglas. Physiologist and Mountaineer, by Among the other finalists were Peter Foster (also already Sky Dance, by John Burns, and reviewed in the Irish Mountain Log) Winter 8000: Climbing the world’s – an intricately researched highest mountains in the coldest biography of a Scottish season, by Bernadette McDonald, mountaineer, whose contributions both already reviewed in the Irish to climbing history on Mont Blanc Mountain Log. In the Guidebook and other mountains have long category, Down: The Complete deserved a close look. Descent Manual for Climbers, by Slatehead: The Ascent of Britain’s Andy Kirkpatrick, was also Slate-climbing Scene, by Peter shortlisted. Goulding – an in-depth history of As I write, the winner of the the climbs and characters of 2020 Boardman Tasker Award for British slate quarries. Mountain Literature has yet to be Two Trees Make a Forest: On announced. With twenty-two Memory, Migration and Taiwan, by entries from Great Britain, Ireland, Jessica J Lee – a poetic and Canada, New Zealand and the deeply moving account of USA this year, five books have Taiwan’s mountains, waters and Peter O’Neill Literary Editor of the been shortlisted. These are: forests. Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 65 Coping with Covid Coping with the challenges of Covid-19 Claire Griffin has been seeking refuge in nature during the lockdowns

ince the outbreak of Covid-19, I have realised that nature can offer positive coping mechanisms. The challenges of a pandemic include intensifiedS emotions of frustration, isolation, worthlessness and uncertainty, which threaten mental well-being. Experts suggest that these negative feelings can be combatted by returning to nature and keeping active in the outdoors. I would certainly agree. In rediscovering my locality, I have had numerous uplifting experiences, acquired new knowledge and walked nearly 800 kilometres! As a volunteer with the South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association, and an active member of two hillwalking groups, I have, for a long time understood the importance of the outdoors as a salve Kilkenny Castle Park, Kilkenny for the soul. However, with the lockdowns, this has meant coming down from the hills and exploring a variety of and butterflies, particularly when, like a showers and that nature withdraws in walks in my native Kilkenny. heroine in an animation movie, I sat amid the autumn, only to return again, Even under the tightest of lots of the latter but could not refreshed and full of vitality, in restrictions, gardens and name them. springtime. The Covid-19 challenge will nearby parks have I learned, too, that mice also pass and we will again be able to provided abundant are extremely vocal when return to our normal hillwalking natural charms. The almost trodden upon, activities. In the meantime, celebrate secret is to be and whoever coined the small things and embrace the receptive and to the phrase ‘quiet as a positive and therapeutic qualities that employ all the mouse’ never met the outdoors offers. Oh, and I intend to senses. Look, that little chappie. reach 1,000 kilometres, continuing to listen, taste, I witnessed at commend nature as I walk on by ■ touch and smell, close quarters an and nature will aerial battle between reveal itself a herring gull and a accordingly. heron, a bird I am Throughout more used to seeing these challenging standing sentinel. times Likewise, two duelling I have wondered at jackdaws settled their Peacock butterfly rainbows, enjoyed dispute right at my feet, tumbling waterfalls and been having fallen out of a tree above struck by amazing cloud my head. I passed along as a white egret formations. eyed its fellow river birds over fishing I stood by as deer walked nonchalantly rights, and later was overjoyed to spot a past, a red squirrel munched on an acorn kingfisher, having not seen one for a long and an otter deliberately checked me time. I watched families of swans mature out. I spied a stoat on its errands before from small cygnets early in the year to strolling through clouds of damselflies adult birds in recent weeks. There were, and butterflies on a sun-drenched however, some less agreeable riverbank. I heard not one but two encounters ... with a cranky goose, cuckoos, fairly assured that I would hear AUTHOR Claire Griffin is from Kilkenny and is a nettles, midges and swarms of St Mark’s member of Tyndall Mountain Club and the Kilkenny none at all this year. I found myself flies. Hillwalkers. She has hiked all over Ireland and in compelled to learn the identification of We, who are hillwalkers and enjoy the many other countries in Europe. She is also a cloud genres, constellations, bumblebees outdoors, know that sunshine follows member of the South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association (SEMRA), which she joined in 2011. Photographs: Claire Griffin Collection Claire Photographs: 66 Irish Mountain Log Winter 2020 Come along and develop your winter DISCOUNTS for early bookings mountain skills, expand your knowledge and group bookings and meet fellow walkers, mountaineers and climbers who enjoy snow and ice FOR FURTHER INFORMATION Call the Training Office on 01 625 1112 or email [email protected]

Main photograph View from the slopes of Buachaille Etive Beag looking across Glencoe to Ridge. Photograph by Andy Ravenhill

Mountaineering Ireland SUMMER ALPINE MEET July 3­17th, 2021, Saas Grund, Switzerland

For details see www.mountaineering.ie or contact [email protected] 00353 (0)1 625 1112 SUBSIDISED BURSARY PLACES for 18 to 25­year­olds

Winter 2020 Irish Mountain Log 67 Irish Peaks, Mountaineering Ireland’s new hillwalking guidebook, is now available for purchase through Mountaineering Ireland’s website. It is a must-have, large format hardback with route descriptions and a beautiful collection of images covering the hundred highest peaks on the island of Ireland. The book can be ordered at: www.mountaineering.ie/shop.

In his review of Irish Peaks in the Irish Mountain Log (No 135, Autumn 2020), Mike Keyes, past Chairperson of the Mountaineering Council of Ireland (now Mountaineering Ireland) says: “If you love or are even curious about Ireland’s uplands and wild places, this book has to be on your shelf.”

Irish Peaks has been produced in memory of Joss Lynam, who died in 2011 and who made a significant contribution to the development of hillwalking and climbing in Ireland. Joss edited the original Irish Peaks that was published in 1982. This new book contains descriptions contributed by Mountaineering Ireland members of more than seventy routes taking in the summits on the MountainViews list of Ireland’s Highest Hundred Mountains.

The recommended retail price for Irish Peaks is €29.95. However, there is a special 10% discount for all Mountaineering Ireland members who order through the official online website, which means you pay €26.95 plus postage, if it has to be posted out to you. To order your discounted copy, please visit www.irishpeaks.ie.