Opposite: Vegans can get stuck into a Local vegan communities 18 TROPICAL cashew-based cheeseboard at Beetroot Travelling with meat-eaters 20 Sauvage in Edinburgh. Below: Black rice and roasted vegetables. Bottom: Language 22 Cambodia 128 Vegan fare at Bali’s Yoga Barn. Vegan travel quiz 26 Cayman Islands 132 Staying healthy 30 Jamaica 136 Resources 32 Malaysia 142

INSPIRATION ROAD TRIP

Top 20 vegan-friendly cities 36 Austria & 148 Top 10 vegan tours 40 East Coast Australia 152 Top 10 vegan food trucks 42 UK 156 Top 10 vegan festivals 44 West Coast USA 162

ADVENTURE About the authors 166 Acknowledgements 168 Argentina 48 Ethiopia 52 Taiwan 56 Vietnam 60

RELAXATION

Bali 66 Japan 72 CONTENTS Nordic nations 76 Switzerland & Northern Italy 82

CULTURE

Eastern Europe 88 India 92 Israel 96 Why travel vegan? 4 Spain 102 around the world 6 WILDLIFE & NATURE PLANNING Brazil 108 How expensive is travelling as a vegan? 10 British Columbia 112 Where to go when 14 New Zealand 118

Packing 16 South Africa 122 ME UP OF BEAN COURTESY / GETTY © WESTEND61 2019, © IMAGES, BEETROOT SAUVAGE, 2019, ©

CONTENTS 2 3 JANUARY– APRIL– JULY– OCTOBER– MARCH JUNE SEPTEMBER DECEMBER

• It’s best to scale Argentina’s • Go to Japan (below) in April, • Summer is the best time to go • An excellent time for hiking Andean peaks between December when the island’s spring bounty is cloudberry, juniper, blackcurrant (opposite), you’ll also avoid the and February, during the country’s harvested. Look for pickled plums, and lingonberry picking in Nordic crowds by travelling to Taiwan in summer months (p48). cherry-blossom mochi (sweet, countries, while also avoiding its shoulder season towards the sticky rice) and fresh bamboo- frigid temperatures (p76). end of the year (p56). • No matter when you visit shoot rice (p72). Vietnam (below), it will be raining • Visit Brazil’s Pantanal, the • Jamaica (below) is mild in somewhere. Your best bet is to go in • You’ll probably still need some world’s largest tropical wetland, November and December, and early spring if you want to visit the cold-weather clothes to visit during dry season (July through local okra, callaloo and chocho northern mountains (p60). eastern Europe in early spring, September). Birdwatching is also crops are still available (p136). but pre-Easter Lenten fasting in best during these months (p108). • India can be unbearably sticky orthodox areas makes it the best • It’s still beach weather in Israel’s during the summer monsoon. time to find meat-, dairy- and • Fully blooming cherry blossoms autumn season, when prices Try to plan your trip for winter, egg-free foods (p52). and the Vegan Vibes festival are lower and persimmons and when it’s also chikoo (sapodilla) make New Zealand a great pomelos flood the markets (p96). fruit season (p92). • The mild South African autumn September destination (p118). is in April and May, which • The 40 days leading up to • It’s beach weather down under in coincides with AfrikaBurn – the • Catch the last of surfing weather Christmas (7 January in the eastern Australia from January to continent’s version of Burning during dry season in Bali (below) Ethiopian calendar) are meatless Where to March, so expect crowds of sun- Man festival (p122). in September, right after most of for members of the Ethiopian go when worshippers (p152). the tourists have left (p66). Orthodox church (p52).

When picking travel dates, you might find yourself balancing the best weather conditions and festival dates against the agricultural calendar. Here’s an overview to help you decide how to plan your trip according to climates or your appetite. FROM LEFT: © LEREN LU / GETTY IMAGES, © MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET LONELY MUNRO/ MATT © GETTY/ IMAGES, LU LEREN © LEFT: FROM FOUNDATION TRAVEL / CHRIS© WILLAN PLANET, LONELY / LAURIE JOHN © PLANET, LONELY / STOKES JONATHAN © LEFT: FROM

PLANNING 14 15 THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK You’ll find hubs of veganism across the globe, from food trucks on America’s East Coast (left) to ’s Veganes Local vegan Sommerfest (below left) and communities culinary tours in Iran (below).

A growling tummy is the worst soundtrack for your adventure away from home. Food may or may not be the focus of your trip, but to make sure you’re adequately fuelled to maximise your travel time, ask a local.

BEFORE YOU GO WHEN YOU’RE THERE Set yourself up for gastronomic success before your It’s usually a major faux pas to ask your waiter where trip by connecting with local vegan communities best to enjoy your next meal. As a vegan traveller? online. Google vegan bloggers who are from your Go for it! At most destinations, all you need to travel destination, since plant-based foods are literally do to ensure a satisfying succession of meals is their bread and (non-dairy) butter. If your search isn’t identify one recommended vegan restaurant in turning up any bloggers, look for vegetarian or vegan advance and head there on your first day. The staff societies – there may even be events or festivals are often vegans themselves, or at least plugged in happening during your travel dates. to the plant-based scene. As a tourist, don’t be shy Lots of locations, including Berlin, Cambodia about asking a restaurant to kindly refer you to their and South Africa, have designated vegan Facebook competition – let your waiter or waitress, or the diners groups. Search for the country or city you’ll be staying sitting at the next table, tell you where else they like to in, plus ‘vegan’. Vegan Travel is a near 30,000-strong eat vegan-friendly meals in town. Facebook group of plant-based food lovers who like to eat well abroad, and it’s a great resource for finding people living in your destination (or who have recently travelled there). Couchsurfing (www.couchsurfing.com) and Meetup (www.meetup.com) are also good ways to get some face time with local vegans. Check whether any Couchsurfing hosts are vegan (regardless of whether you choose to crash on their couch), or if any vegan Meetup events are happening while you’re in town. And if you’re travelling solo, check Veg Travel Buddies (www.vegtravelbuddies.com) to see if any other vegans have similar travel plans and want to occasionally share a table. FROM LEFT: © 2019, BJORN FEHL / BERLIN VEGAN SUMMER FEST, © 2019, GMONKEY, © 2019, IRAN VEGAN TRAVEL / PARISA PURRANJBA / PARISA TRAVEL VEGAN IRAN 2019, © GMONKEY, 2019, © BJORN SUMMER FEHL/ BERLIN VEGAN FEST, 2019, © FROM LEFT:

PLANNING 18 19 THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK Place your order for a dish that seems Ask for the closest vegan. Then make cultural equivalent to extra sure there are no a vegan diet, in terms unwanted ingredients locals will understand: or garnishes:

JAPAN VIETNAM SPAIN GERMANY INDIA JAMAICA ETHIOPIA RUSSIA ISRAEL CHINA

Ie katsuobushi: Không Sin jamón: Nein speck: Nahin ghee: Ital: Yetsom Postno-ye Parve: Wo chī quán Japanese nuóc măm: Spanish for ‘no German for ‘no Hindi for the Jamaican beyaynetu: menyu: the a Hebrew term sù: how to for ‘no dried Vietnamese for ham’, which bacon’, which ‘no ghee’, a Rastafarian the Amharic Lenten menus describing explain in bonito flakes’, ‘no fish sauce’, is scattered is often diced clarified butter term for mostly name for many Russian foods that Chinese that a kind of a condiment as a topping and included in used in many plant-based, a platter of restaurants have neither you follow preserved fish added to many on soups and salads, noodles Indian dishes unprocessed fasting-friendly offer in the run- dairy nor milk a Buddhist commonly dishes, even salads. and other that otherwise foods. Ethiopian up to Easter, (but may vegan diet used as a when no other seemingly appear wholly plant-based featuring vegan contain fish (this may result condiment or animal-derived vegan dishes. plant-based. foods, available foods (though or eggs), in in onion and for flavour in ingredients are in the country they may accordance garlic being dashi broth. included. roughly 200 include some with Jewish omitted, too, days a year. seafood). kosher laws. so do specify).

FROM LEFT: © CHRIS WILLAN / TRAVEL FOUNDATION, FOUNDATION, TRAVEL / CHRIS© WILLAN LEFT: FROM © MATT MUNRO / LONELY PLANET LONELY MUNRO/ MATT © PLANET LONELY / MUNRO MATT © SHUTTERSTOCK, / MARIAKRAYNOVA ©

PLANNING 24 25 THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK 1 BERLIN, GERMANY 2 LONDON, UK 5 PORTLAND, 6 LOS ANGELES, 7 UBUD, BALI, INDONESIA

Frequently cited as the vegan There seem to be vegan options OREGON, USA CALIFORNIA, USA With no shortage of tofu and TOP 20 capital of the world, Berlin’s within easy range of every Tube tempeh on menus, Bali is an secret comes down to its stop in London: fancy Ethiopian, The vegan dedication is strong The home of many vegan easy choice for vegans, but VEGAN-FRIENDLY thriving population of vegans: Caribbean, Asian or Japanese in Portland. It has an entire mall celebrities (Natalie Portman Ubud is your ground zero. As CITIES at least 80,000 and growing vegan cuisine? What about the that’s vegan, hosts a vegan and Liam Hemsworth, among the island’s spiritual and cultural So you want a no- rapidly. This is a city where you’ll world’s first vegan chicken shop? summer camp, sells vegan others), LA not only caters to nexus, Ubud is all about feeding hassle city break? A find not just vegan restaurants Even Pizza Hut offers vegan furniture, there’s a vegan punk the cool crowd but respects all your soul. There are plentiful raw but businesses thinking cheese at its London outlets. club, a critically acclaimed fine those who consider the body food options featuring fresh, relaxing trip where you creatively about your everyday dining vegan restaurant, even a temple. If Los Angelenos local ingredients, not to mention won’t be scrambling for needs: animal-free butchers, a vegan strip club… you get the aren’t following a plant-friendly a lot of vegan retreats in glorious vegan-friendly choices? vegan hotels, vegan bars and picture. Portland also claims lifestyle, then they’re certainly tropical locations. Don’t stress, these 20 Schivelbeiner Strasse, a ‘vegan to have the world’s first all- familiar with it. Musician Moby avenue’ featuring cruelty-free vegan barbecue. has a vegan restaurant here, with cities are more than clothing stores. all profits going to animal rights ready for you. organisations.

3 NEW YORK CITY, USA 4 TEL AVIV, ISRAEL 8 WARSAW, POLAND 9 TORONTO, CANADA 10 MELBOURNE,

Whether you’re looking for Surprised to see Tel Aviv in the A decade ago Warsaw held With its very own vegan AUSTRALIA vegan restaurant chains, top five? Don’t be, Israelis have little appeal for vegans, but it’s neighbourhood, nicknamed fine dining, burgers, crepes the highest vegan population making up for lost time with Vegandale – a dedicated block of Australia’s capital of cuisine or doughnuts, New York City per capita in the world. Plant- close to 50 exclusively vegan vegan food, goods and services always has its finger on the wholeheartedly embraces your based is a way of life here, so restaurants. Enjoy Mexican fast with its own touring festival (see pulse, so the rise of vegan dining needs. Though the Upper West vegans are guaranteed to eat food, sushi, Italian eateries, ice p44) – Toronto should definitely here is unsurprising. In fact, Side may have limited choices, really well, with lots of locally cream, burgers, French bakeries, be on your travel bucket list. it’s one of the fastest-growing other neighbourhoods have the grown produce. Think beyond Polish comfort food and more. More than half of Canadians, vegan markets in the world: good city’s go-get-’em attitude. Where the hummus and falafels and especially those aged under news for travellers. You’ll find else would you find a ‘vegetable prepare to be wowed by recent 35, regularly opt for vegan meat vegan choices everywhere, but slaughterhouse’? Or a cafe with innovations in vegan cuisine. alternatives, and Toronto chefs the popular inner-city suburb vegan sleeping pods for when are catering for plant-centric of Fitzroy is Melbourne’s vegan you need a nap? eating like never before. heartland, thanks to more than 100 vegan-friendly options. PREVIOUS PAGE: © 2019, AUCKLAND VEGAN FOOD FESTIVAL / RYAN WILSON. THIS PAGE: PAGE: THIS WILSON. RYAN / FOOD FESTIVAL VEGAN AUCKLAND 2019, © PREVIOUS PAGE: © JONATHAN STOKES / LONELY PLANET, © MARK CHILVERS / LONELY PLANET LONELY / CHILVERS MARK © PLANET, LONELY / STOKES JONATHAN © © KRYSTIAN PAWLOWSKI / 500PX PAWLOWSKI © KRYSTIAN

TOP 20 VEGAN CITIES 36 37 THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK this touring food and drink festival. The daytime, family-friendly street fair in all things vegan at this one-day free name stems from a dedicated vegan city March with its carnival-like atmosphere. carnival in October. Run by volunteers, TOP 10 block in Toronto (see p37). Expect 100% Then there’s the paid-entry, more it features more than 70 outlets offering vegan food, craft brews, wine, spirits and intimate, night-time fair for those vegan products, health checks, cooking VEGAN FESTIVALS clothing. www.vegandalefest.com aged 21 and over in late August/early demonstrations, cruelty-free clothing and Imagine the fun of September. Both are held across two more. There’s even an animal costume a festival in a new 3. VEGGIEWORLD, EUROPE days/nights. www.veganstreetfair.com stall and a place that rents reusable destination but with (VARIOUS LOCATIONS) containers. www.vegfest.hk Europe’s oldest vegan trade fair now 6. VEGAN GOURMET FESTIVAL, the added comfort exhibits in 14 cities, including , NAGOYA, KYOTO & TOKYO, 9. VEGAN FASHION of knowing you’ll be Barcelona, Copenhagen, , JAPAN WEEK, LOS ANGELES, among a supportive Brussels and . You’ll find vegan Launched in Nagoya and CALIFORNIA, USA community of vegans. products from hundreds of exhibitors, later expanding into Kyoto Debuting in February cooking demonstrations, talks, yoga and Tokyo, this free festival 2019 at the Los Angeles Wonder no more. classes and film previews. is the place for gluten-free Natural History Museum, Mingle with fellow vegans ganmodoki (fried tofu this four-day fashion at these two-day events. fritter with veg) burgers, vegan festival founded by animal www.veggieworld.de takoyaki (usually diced octopus rights activist Emmanuelle Rienda balls but here made from konnyaku, was such a hit that designer applications 1. VEGANES 4. VEGFEST, LONDON a gelatinous-like potato), hemp beer and immediately followed for the October SOMMERFEST, BERLIN, & BRIGHTON, UK more. www.vegefes.com 2019 runway show. Products are 100% GERMANY Plump for London vegan and, though the event is currently You want music, games, (October) or Brighton 7. VEGAN CAMP-OUT, UK VIP-invitation only, it’s worth checking athletics and a fashion show as (March, though it’s taking a Join vegans from more than 30 countries out if you’re a designer or fashion well as vegan food? Get yourself to break in 2020). Brighton’s VegFest at the world’s largest camping festival in follower. www.veganfashionweek.org Europe’s biggest vegan festival in Berlin’s has been going since 2009 but London’s late August and early September. Going Alexanderplatz in August. Best of all, it’s attracts the biggest crowds (14,500 strong since 2016 (the location keeps 10. AUCKLAND VEGAN FOOD free! There’s also a tombola to spin on people in 2018). All stalls, marketing and changing to keep pace with demand), FESTIVAL, NEW ZEALAND the way out, so you can leave with a gift speakers are vegan, and you can expect its entertainment includes music, talks, This new festival, held in February, is from one of the sponsors. www.veganes- tastings, cookery demos, documentaries, workshops, yoga and DJs. Solo travellers a gathering of vegan food trucks, aka sommerfest-berlin.de/en even comedy. www.vegfest.co.uk are welcome to join the Facebook group paradise for street-food lovers. With to make new mates beforehand. www. an all-ages, family-friendly crowd, live 2. VEGANDALE, USA & CANADA 5. VEGAN STREET FAIR, LOS ANGELES, vegancampout.co.uk entertainment, a marketplace and warm, (VARIOUS LOCATIONS) CALIFORNIA, USA ethically minded hospitality, it’s one to The vegans of Chicago, Miami, Toronto, Los Angelenos have a choice of two 8. HONG KONG VEG FEST watch. www.aucklandfoodtruckcollective. © 2019, CHRISTIN BILD IN GRAU / BERLIN VEGAN SUMMER FEST VEGAN BERLIN / IN GRAU BILD CHRISTIN 2019, © New York and Houston eagerly await Vegan Street Fairs. First there’s the free, WEEK FASHION VEGAN 2019, © The people of Hong Kong celebrate com/vegan-food-festival

TOP 10 VEGAN FESTIVALS 44 45 THE VEGAN TRAVEL HANDBOOK