Fall 2014 sizzleThe American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking Jonathon Sawyer doesn’t want to rule the culinary world

investigate a sports-team chef career

sweet and heat menu trend

explore the cuisine of Goa, India sizzle The American Culinary Federation features NExt Quarterly for Students of Cooking 16 A Stage (stahje) can Help Publisher issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Your Career • Learn tips for personal networking. Editor-in-Chief Consider a short stint working for free at a restaurant • Discover sous vide cooking. Jody Shee for the exposure to different cuisines and chefs. It could • Consider working as lead to a job. a foodservice Senior Editor distributor chef. Jessica Ward 22 Sweet and Heat Menu Trend Graphic Designer Sweet and spicy flavors in the same dish is a popular flavor David Ristau proposition. Learn what works and doesn’t work Director of Communications in achieving balance. Patricia A. Carroll 28 Consider a Career as a Sports-team Chef Contributing Editors Rob Benes Discover the opportunities, benefits and challenges of cooking for athletic teams. Suzanne Hall Ethel Hammer Kathryn Kjarsgaard

Direct all editorial, advertising and subscription inquiries to: departments 16 22 28 American Culinary Federation, Inc. 180 Center Place Way 4 President’s Message St. Augustine, FL 32095 ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, charges culinary students and (800) 624-9458 [email protected] recent graduates to set themselves up for success.

Subscribe to Sizzle: 6 Amuse-Bouche www.acfchefs.org/sizzle Student news, opportunities and more. For information about ACF 8 Slice of Life certification and membership, go to www.acfchefs.org. Paul Burch, CSC, walks us through a day in his apprenticeship as head chef/kitchen manager at Sunset Grille in St. Augustine Beach, Florida. 10 Classical V. Modern

facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs Alain De Coster, BMCA, CEC, and Jill Levy demonstrate the classic French dish Cassoulet Toulousain two ways. Learn the basic procedures, then try it for yourself. Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Fall 34 By Degrees Volume 11, Number 3, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. Dan Mules, CEC, CCE, shows how to make duck confit. Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights 36 Events reserved. Reproduction without written permission Find out competition winners from the 2014 ACF National Convention in Kansas of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do City, Missouri. not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers, employees, contractors or members of 42 International Flavors the American Culinary Federation. Carolyn M. Fortes discusses the nuances of the cuisine from her native culture of Goa, India. 48 The Interview Cleveland chef and restaurateur Jonathon Sawyer shares the influences that serve as underpinnings for his environmental strategy among his restaurants. 52 The Quiz Cover photo Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. by Billy Delfs 53 Last Bite Photography, Denver chefs offer their local dining picks. courtesy of Jonathon Sawyer. See page 48.

2 Sizzle Fall 14 Discover your culinary vision with us! Publix is more than the nation’s largest employee-owned company!

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A Few Words to the Wise By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, culinary students, Downingtown, Pennsylvania. but who needed to learn After only two years, I how to listen. I listened to Back in the early 1970s, I was became executive chef. I him that day, and from then a student at The Culinary was 20 years old, I could Institute of America (CIA) in on, I listened to everyone cook, and I thought I knew Hyde Park, New York. As long around me. This was a pivotal everything. What I didn’t ago as that must seem to those moment in my career. know was how to manage and of you in culinary school now, develop a team that was older I went on to hold several or who recently graduated, and wiser than I was. The executive-chef positions I know how you feel. You are excited for the future, but scared about making your mark in the industry. Like you, I couldn’t imagine ever losing touch with my culinary school friends, or what my days would be like without them. But the most important thing that connects us is a determination to have a meaningful career in foodservice. Thirty-seven years later, I have achieved my dreams. And I want to let you sous chef, with more than 30 on my way to my present know that you can, too, with a years in the business, gave me position as chef/product lot of hard work. some great advice. He told specialist manager for the My first job was at the me I was a young know-it- Philadelphia division of US Downingtown Inn Resort in all who knew how to cook, Foods and a Food Fanatics™

4 Sizzle Fall 14 chef for the company. It has need to associate with others been an incredible journey, in the industry will never but I paid my dues. I worked diminish, and some of the 60 to 80 hours a week, best places to network are weekends and holidays. When with culinary organizations I joined US Foods in 2011, and in community I was finally able to spend activities that involve Valentine’s Day with my wife fellow culinarians. Also, and enjoy the holidays with compete as much as you can. my family. Competition is an incredible learning experience. One day, your classroom experiences will come to an Once you are on your way, wish for each of you is that end. Before that, though, manage your time and the you achieve yours. you should work to set time of those you oversee Sincerely, yourself up for success. for better productivity. And, Chart your career path, set communicate, communicate, goals and evaluate your communicate. Speak clearly Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC progress regularly. When you and listen intently. I can’t National President see yourself drifting away express enough how crucial American Culinary Federation from your ambitions, take good listening will be when Product Specialist Manager/ Food Fanatics™ Chef corrective action. Recognize you become a manager. US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia the hurdles you may face, and Coach, mentor and teach learn to anticipate occasional your staff. While it is Note: This message is taken from changes and diversions. wonderful to possess great Chef Macrina’s commencement Don’t allow anything or skills, they are meaningless address to the graduates of The Culinary Institute of America, Hyde anyone to sidetrack your if you’re not expanding that Park, New York, in June. attention or ambitions. As knowledge through your difficult as that may be, circle of influence. opposite: ACF president Tom Macrina, CEC, once you get off-track, it Finally, never forget that you CCA, AAC, (left) shared can be hard to pick up the have chosen a challenging commencement momentum again. responsibilities with Dr. Tim career path. But, you can Ryan, CMC, AAC, president One of the most important succeed. While the culinary of The Culinary Institute of things you can do is build a industry is large, it is also a America, Hyde Park, New network of mentors. I can’t small community. Many of York, past president of ACF, stress enough how vital it is to the friends I made at The CIA on June 13, 2014. seek advice from experienced are now my colleagues and above: Chef Macrina (center) celebrates with chefs around you. Embrace renowned chefs, and it will 2014 graduates of the CIA, their expertise, both in be that way for you as your Jonathan Ong (left) and technical skills and in overall career progresses. I was where Patrick Owens following guidance. And, don’t discount you are now 40 years ago, and commencement. the value of networking. Your I achieved my dreams. My www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 5 amuse-bouche news & opportunities amuse-bouche

News & Opportunities

Meehan places second at demo inspires students young chefs challenge Students in the culinary arts and baking/ Congratulations to Reilly Meehan pastry program at Center of Applied (pictured), chef/co-owner of Bespoke Technology North (CATN), Severn, Doughnuts, San Francisco, for winning Maryland, were treated to an exciting second place in the Hans Bueschkens mystery basket cooking demonstration Young Chefs Challenge at the 2014 by Chad Gauss, executive chef/owner World Association of Chefs Societies, or of Baltimore’s The Food Market and The Worldchefs, Congress held in Stavanger, Food Truck 450, in June. Gauss won Norway, July 2-5. $24,000 on the first episode of Food Network’s “Kitchen Casino.” Participants were required to prepare a three-course meal for four people in 3 hours. Meehan’s first course was a Warm Smoked Mustard and Wasabi Glazed Halibut with an orange- and paprika- infused octopus gelee (pictured). His second course featured Beef with Flavors of Sauce Bordelaise with a bacon-sausage- filled choux dumpling accompanied by The demo sponsor was US Foods, yellow corn pudding, shiitake mushroom represented by executive chef Perry custard, mushroom ragoût and Parmesan- Canestraro and his intern, Christopher dusted funnel cake. For dessert, he made Bussey, a CATN culinary alumni. Terrine of Yogurt, Berries and Chocolate American student wins with a warm whole-wheat citrus curd tartlet, strawberry tea scented red berry Korean prize salad, vanilla ice cream and raspberry Kudos to Ana Kasparova (pictured), a sherbet (pictured). culinary arts student at Lake Washington Institute of Technology (LWIT), Kirland, The Young Chefs Challenge is hosted Washington, who competed against 15 every two years during the Worldchefs others and won the Global Taste of Korea above: Photos by Brian Christie biennial congress. Contest 2014. Sponsored by the Korean

6 Sizzle Fall 14 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

Consulate to Seattle, the competition took The 2014 winner was Chase Grove, chef must reads place in May at The Art Institute of Seattle, de partie, The Grey Plume, Omaha, “Pastry & Dessert Techniques” Seattle. Her win allows her to move up to Nebraska. Read about him and the (American Technical Publishers, 2014) compete against the winners of 15 other award in “Events” on page 36. by Daniel M. Pliska. This book offers 35 countries, including Italy, China, France techniques used to create 65 pastry and For more information and for an and Australia. The finals will be nationally dessert recipes, many with variations application form, visit http://bit. televised on a large Korean network and and subcomponents that can be used ly/1sthQbk. take place in Korea in late September. to create sweet or savory pastries and CIA seniors raise money desserts. The book covers foundational for charity pastry techniques; savory pastry basics; For the collegiate year that ended May plate presentation; and classics and 31, The Culinary Institute of America signatures. The book also includes (CIA), Hyde Park, New York, seniors access to extra digital resources. put on nine events that raised almost Educators can access instructor $59,000 for charities and scholarships. resources at www.atplearning.com.

As part of the school’s bachelor’s degrees in management, seniors in the foodservice management course were required to develop and execute a special event as a final project before graduation. Proceeds The overall winner will receive an all- from the themed fine-dining experiences expense paid trip to Korea and have a were split between CIA scholarship funds documentary made about his/her life, and charities selected by students. school and career in the U.S. Benefiting charities were Grace Smith “Ana walked into my intro class two years House; Food Bank of the Hudson ago not knowing what mirepoix was, and Valley; Dutchess Outreach; Miles now she is representing the entire U.S. of Hope Breast Cancer Foundation; overseas,” says Matthew DiMeo, CEC, Dutchess County SPCA; Claudio Cares faculty, culinary arts, at LWIT. Foundation; Fisher House Foundation; nominate a winner Wounded Warrior Project; and American Farmland Trust. Do you know an extraordinary culinary “Culinary Educators’ Teaching Tools student? The deadline to nominate that top culinary schools & Tips” (Kendall Hunt, 2014) by individual for the 2015 ACF Student How does your favorite culinary school Colin P. Roche, Bradley J. Ware and Chef of the Year Award is Sept. 30, stack up? FSR magazine, which covers Claudette Lévesque Ware. Culinary and hospitality educators will find concrete, 2014. The award recognizes an up-and- the full-service restaurant industry, achievable lab and classroom teaching coming student who possesses a high recently researched culinary schools techniques in this teacher’s guidebook. degree of professionalism, culinary across the U.S. and named its top It addresses issues related to student skills and passion for the culinary arts. 20 culinary schools for excellence in producing graduates with a solid learning and instructor effectiveness The candidate must be no more than foundation in technical skills and and includes lesson-plan development, age 25 on June 1, 2017, and be an ACF professionalism. Fourteen schools listed student engagement, active learning and Student Culinarian member in good have ACFEF-accredited programs. classroom management. standing for three months prior to the Have a look at their top picks here: application deadline. http://bit.ly/1sthx03. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 slice of life paul burch slice of life

Paul Burch, CSC

age 35

education Apprentice program at First Coast Technical College (FCTC), St. Augustine, Florida. Graduated with a Certified Sous Chef (CSC) credential.

work Head chef/kitchen manager at the Sunset Grille in St. Augustine Beach, Florida

why I chose FCTC The apprenticeship program was offered to me as a tuition-free program. I couldn’t pass it up. I had been in the restaurant industry for a long time, but never received formal training. I fell in love with cooking, and I wanted to be the best I could possibly be. All I had to do was dedicate some extra time to my career and passion.

The apprenticeship program allowed me to combine what I learned in school with on-the-job-training under the supervision of my chef at work and the chefs at school in order to complete my degree requirements.

most important lesson learned In order to attain anything of value in this world, you must work hard and go out and grab it. Nobody is going to hand it to you. Hard work doesn’t go unnoticed.

career plans I plan to continue to pursue as much knowledge about the restaurant industry as possible. If the opportunity arises, maybe I will be able to open my own restaurant one day.

8 Sizzle Fall 14 an award-winning soup featured on see what I can do to get any staff our menu year-round. It’s relatively members who are on double shifts easy to make with onions, celery, out on break before dinner service. artichokes, sherry and a few other ingredients. 3:00 p.m. It’s the end of my shift. I must go over 9:30 a.m. inventory and order what is needed for One of our signature sauces is next tomorrow before I take a 2-hour break. on my to-do list. It’s called shrimp and crab sauce, and we use it for a couple 5:00 p.m. of dishes, including our fresh grouper I return to expedite for dinner service. and lobster ravioli. I assemble the I oversee every plate that leaves the mise en place for the sauce and am kitchen to make sure it looks and soon sauteing and simmering. 6:00 a.m. tastes up to the standards that have made us successful. I unlock the doors, turn on the lights 11:00 a.m. and the kitchen equipment and go Next up is one of our signature 10:00 p.m. over the inventory left from last night. homemade desserts—our triple Another successful night of dinner From there, I devise the prep list for decker chocolate brownie. We sell the prep crew and myself for the day. service winds down. I go over a ton of these. The ingredients are cleaning projects with the night crew. 6:45 a.m. chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, flour and vanilla. Melting and combining 10:30 p.m. I order today's fresh fish from our yields a batter on a sheet tray to bake local seafood purveyor. This includes Time to sit down, have a couple of off. Then it’s into the walk-in cooler. I 30 pounds of fresh local grouper, 20 cold beverages and call it a day. will assemble the dessert later. pounds of fresh local mahi mahi and 10 pounds of fresh center-cut yellow 12:00 p.m. fin tuna. The fresh fish arrives. I inspect it for 7:00 a.m. quality and proper weight. Then I cut it into 9-ounce portions for dinner later on. Today I am making New England clam 1:00 p.m. chowder. It is our best-selling soup Time to cut the steaks for dinner and has won service. We feature a 12-ounce New multiple awards. York strip. I trim the excess fat off It is on our menu the loin. year-round. I gather the mise 1:30 p.m. en place for the I finish up such smaller projects as chowder and making black beans, assembling the top left: Lobster ravioli with shrimp and start chopping brownies and preparing corn. crab sauce and cooking. 2:30 p.m. above: Triple decker chocolate brownie 8:30 a.m. Photos by Zach Thomas Photography With all my prep done, I go over the It’s time to make the prep list with my crew and decide to crab and artichoke let a couple of them go home. I then bisque. This is also www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 classical v. modern cassoulet toulousain classical v. modern he beauty of a casserole them in the morning before In its classic form, Cassoulet is its openness to the baker started work. Thus Toulousain is down to earth T interpretation and families had a comforting, and delicious, says Alain variation. Entire cookbooks are hot single-dish meal. De Coster, BMCA, CEC, a devoted to the one-dish meals. lead chef instructor at the The same goes for the classic As Jill Levy, a recent graduate International Culinary Center. French cassoulet, named after of the International Culinary For his modern rendition, he the earthen cassole pot in Center, New York, pondered chose to deconstruct the dish, which it is cooked. what classic French dish to allowing each component feature for Classical V. Modern, to stand out on its own. The Cassoulet originated from she knew she wanted to work outcome doesn’t look like a peasants of Southern France with duck. She found that the cassoulet as we know it, but in the large province of cassoulet was not only perfect all the ingredients are there. Languedoc. As popular for that reason, “but you could “Perhaps the procedures dishes often veer off in compare it to how we have chili are slightly different. Rather regional directions, so did in Texas and clam chowder than a stew, my cassoulet the cassoulet. The towns of in New England. Everyone interpretation is such that can Toulouse, Carcassonne and has their own recipe for it. It’s be assembled on the plate,” Castelnaudary each had their regionally iconic. Everyone he says. “But everything is own version. But common to knows it and loves it,” she says. respected as it was.” all was the presence of white beans, bread crumbs and such The humble Cassoulet The point is, in the beginning, meats as pork, mutton, sausage Toulousain may seem every chef should learn to or preserved duck or goose. simple, but it contains so master the basics of a recipe many complex flavors and using proper knife, cooking Many families did not have techniques to achieve the and plating skills, honing all an oven, so they would ultimate flavor profile you’re the required techniques to combine ingredients in an aiming for, Levy says. “The achieve the intended flavor and earthen pot and take it to the mise en place for this dish is texture. Once that is mastered, village baker to place on his extensive, but the end result is then the chef can imagine hot coals after he finished well worth it. It’s a labor of love alterations, while respecting for the day. There the pots as one of those comforting the intentions of the recipe. top: Alain De Coster remained to cook slowly dishes you want to serve to and Jill Levy overnight. Villagers retrieved your family on cold days.”

10 Sizzle Fall 14 classical modern Cassoulet Toulousain Deconstructed Cassoulet Toulousain 1. The classic Cassoulet Toulousain is prepared in an 1. Duck confit is one of the main components of Cassoulet earthenware pot. In fact, the dish is named after the Toulousain. 2. This small “cake” is made of lamb shank French pot in which it is cooked, the cassole. 2. Bread trimmings, pork belly and garlic sausage. 3. The duck crumbs are a main component of the traditional dish. cracklings are made from the reserved skin from the duck Even without them, the baked dish would still form a crust, confit.4. Among other ingredients, the great northern which traditionally is broken a few times during cooking beans are cooked with pork belly meat and smoked slab to allow the topping to absorb the rendered fat and bacon. 5. Braised pork noisette from the shoulder. 6. Braised, let additional crusts form to help hold the flavor inside. seared pork belly. 7. Lamb shank ragout “nugget.” 3. Cassoulet Toulousain was traditionally served with 8. Seared, smoked bacon square. baguette slices, butter and duck fat.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern cassoulet toulousain classical With a bachelor’s degree in mass Sara Moulton. Levy’s school bottom of the pan. “Cassoulet beans instead of white beans. communications from Towson and internship experience has many components that Traditionally, bread crumbs are University, Towson, Maryland, reinforced what was already don’t come together until the placed over the top. “Even if you Jill Levy, 24, made the best ingrained in her. “I love to cook end,” she says. “You don’t want didn’t use bread crumbs, it would decision of her life, she says, by and test new recipes. Ever since to overpower one component still form somewhat of a crust,” following her dream of going to I was young, I was curious over another. Don’t over-season, she says. In the proper recipe, culinary school. She began her about different ingredients because everything will be the crust is broken a few times pursuit of classic culinary arts and loved experimenting with combined.” She worked hard at during cooking to allow the bread specializing in French techniques them,” she says. balancing the flavor. crumbs to absorb the rendered at the International Culinary fat and let additional crusts form Center in October 2013. As Levy pondered the French The recipe is time-consuming, to help hold the flavor inside. Cassoulet Toulousain, she up to 4 hours, and that’s if you Her goal is to work in a recognized it as a dish with purchase confit duck legs. She “Like any other stew, it gets better test kitchen, perhaps for a classical roots that is open has heard the advice to cook as it sits. The flavors continue to publication. “I’d be open to for interpretation. One of some of it a day ahead. melt together,” she says. what life hands me,” she says. the techniques required of Already life has handed her an the culinarian is the ability For those wanting to tweak internship position as a recipe to properly sear the pork and the recipe, she suggests using tester for chef, cookbook author lamb for the perfect brown different cuts of meat, like a and television personality color without burning it on the veal shank. Or use cranberry

Cassoulet Toulousain Yield: 4 servings Beans Cassoulet batches until golden on all sides. 3 . Layer with lamb and pork. Ingredients: Ingredients: Remove meat from pan; reserve. 4 . Add another layer of beans. 1 lb. dried great northern or ½ cup duck confit fat, divided 2 . Sear reserved bacon and 5 . Add a layer of sausage and white beans ½ lb. pork shoulder, cut into sausage until golden; remove from bacon. 4 oz. pork rind 2-inch cubes pan. Once cool, cut sausage on 6 . Top with seared confit duck legs; 4 oz. slab bacon ½ lb. lamb shanks, boned, cut a bias into 1-inch pieces. cover with some reserved bean 1 carrot, peeled, diced into 2-inch cubes 3 . Add diced onions and crushed broth and braising liquid. 1 onion, peeled, studded with 6 oz. garlic sausage garlic cloves; cook until 7 . Cover cassoulet with parchment- 4 cloves 2 medium-size white onions, caramelized. Remove from pan. paper; bake in a bain marie or 1 bouquet garni sachet (thyme, bay peeled, diced Deglaze with red wine; reduce water bath for 1 hour. leaf, black peppercorns and 6 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed wine by half. 8 . Sprinkle bread crumbs on top, parsley sprigs) ½ cup red wine 4 . Place seared lamb and pork bake until a golden brown crust 6 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed 1 bouquet garni in a sachet (thyme, in medium stock pot with forms on top. Once golden, Salt as needed bay leaf, black pepper corns, caramelized onions, garlic, slightly break crust, bake again parsley sprigs) bouquet garni and tomatoes. until another crust forms. Method: 2 plum tomatoes, blanched for 15 Season with salt and pepper to 9 . Serve immediately with sliced 1 . Soak beans overnight. seconds, peeled taste. Cover with chicken stock. baguette, butter and duck fat, 2 . Drain. To a large pot, add 2 cups chicken stock Simmer for 1 hour over low heat. if desired. beans, pork rind, bacon, diced 2 confit duck legs 5 . While lamb and pork are carrot, clove-studded onion, ¾ cup fresh bread crumbs or panko braising, sear confit duck legs in bouquet garni and crushed ¾ cup reserved bean broth remaining duck fat. garlic. Cover with water; season Salt and pepper as needed 6 . Once lamb and pork are tender, lightly with salt. remove from pot. Strain; reserve 3 . Bring beans to a boil; simmer Method: braising liquid. until cooked “to the tooth” 1 . Heat half of the duck fat in a (about 35 minutes). Drain beans, roudeau or large saute pan, Assembly: reserving broth; remove bouquet being careful not to crowd the 1 . Preheat oven to 300ºF. garni sachet. pan. Lightly season pork, lamb 2 . In earthenware casserole, 4 . Cut bacon into 2-inch cubes; and sausage with salt and spread generous layer of beans reserve for cassoulet. pepper. Sear pork and lamb in on bottom.

12 Sizzle Fall 14 classical v. modern cassoulet toulousain modern Alain De Coster, 57, started on his Belgian restaurant. From there, he realm of flexibility,” he says. “I like to duck breast. But with his modern culinary adventure at age 13 in his slowly climbed the ladder, working tell the students that they hold the key rendition, he chose to deconstruct hometown of Brussels, Belgium, for numerous first-class New York of our survival as a human species.” the classic dish, and in so doing, when he was accepted into the seven- hotels, platinum clubs of America and “we see what’s possible with that He describes Cassoulet Toulousain as year program at CERIA, a highly other outstanding venues, building one item. The finished product down-to-earth, versatile and, most of regarded professional vocational accolades and respect along the way. needs to blend and make sense. The all, delicious. With this dish, he urges chef’s school. He graduated with Joining various well-known culinary integrity of composition should still distinction and was hired immediately organizations, his appreciation for others to keep in mind the flavors and be there.” He notes that he did not by two members of the school’s jury. education deepened. He recently was individuality of each item as well as the add a vegetable to the plate, because After a stint in the Belgian Navy, he invited to serve as Master Chefs of basics regarding cooking techniques, it is not part of the original dish. continued his culinary climb under Belgium’s ambassador to the U.S. for a skills and individual production. “If you see a cassoulet somewhere his mentor, Belgian master chef second two-year term. “Each product should feature its that has broccolini or any other Remy Jacxsens, who helped steer own personality, which can then be In 2010, he joined the International accompaniment on the side, that’s not him to apprentice under several of his blended. Look for structure, texture, Culinary Center as lead chef instructor keeping with how it was designed.” master-chef colleagues. composition, doneness and items that where he shares his knowledge and You have to keep it real, even though can complement each other.” In 1983, De Coster and his wife passion, “enabling those talented, customers these days are often hungry moved to the U.S. where he was hired aspiring culinarians to become He has seen cassoulets made with for “something new” or unusual. to open Manhattan’s first authentic someone and do well in their own goose, foie gras added, and smoked

shank and vegetables to pan. remaining cure mixture. Wrap 3 . Place smoked bacon in small stock Deconstructed 5 . Bring to a boil, then simmer. in plastic film. Cover tray with pot over medium-high heat to Cassoulet Toulousain Cover with parchment paper to another tray; place small weight render fat. When bacon is golden Yield: 8 servings prevent film from forming, then on top. Refrigerate for 24 hours. brown, remove from pot; reserve. solid lid. Place in 325ºF oven for 5 . Remove legs from cure. Rinse 4 . In same pot, color pork belly Braised lamb shank about 2½ hours. Cook shank under cold water, removing as until golden brown on all sides. Ingredients: until fork tender. much cure as possible from legs. 5 . Add carrot, onion, garlic, cloves 1 large lamb shank 6 . Remove shank from pan; let cool. Pat dry with paper towels. and herbs. 3 T. corn oil 7 . Degrease stock; reduce by half. 6 . Melt duck fat in sautoir over 6 . Return beans to pot. Add enough 5 oz. white onions, peeled, medium Reserve until service. low heat. Add duck legs; cover water to cover by about 1 inch. diced 8 . Gently remove meat from lamb completely with fat. 7 . Bring ingredients to a boil, then to 4 garlic cloves, peeled, smashed shank, keeping large muscles 7 . Cook until fork tender, making sure a simmer. Cook until fork tender. 5 oz. carrots, peeled, medium diced intact. Set aside until ready to fat never exceeds 190ºF degrees. 8 . When done, remove carrots, 1 large celery stalk, medium diced proceed with cassoulet. 8 . Remove cooked legs from onions, thyme, bay leaf and 5 oz. red wine fat; pat dry; reserve at room cloves. Do not discard cooking temperature for a moment. 1 qt. veal stock Duck confit liquid as it will be needed for the 9 . Add a bit of duck fat to frying 2 large plum tomatoes, skinned, Ingredients: cassoulet. Puree a small portion pan; sear legs on all sides until seeded, diced 4 plump duck legs from of beans for later use in cassoulet. golden brown. Reserve for service. 1 sprig of thyme fabricated duck 1 bay leaf 4 oz. coarse kosher salt Garlic sausage 1 small cinnamon stick, cracked Pinch of curing salt (pink) Beans Ingredients: Ingredients: Salt and pepper to taste 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 6-inch garlic sausage links 1 lb. dried great northern white 2 oz. butcher cracked black pepper Duck fat for frying beans Method: 2 oz. sugar 4 oz. pork belly meat, cut into 1 . Trim excess fat from shank; 1 t. thyme leaves Method: 1½-inch squares season with salt and pepper. Let juniper berries 1 . 1 T. , crushed 4 oz. smoked slab bacon, cut into In small saute pan, sear sausage rest for 3 minutes. 2 qts. duck fat 1½-inch squares in duck fat until golden brown. 2 . In medium-size sautoir heat oil. 1 medium size carrot, peeled, 2 . Just before service, cut each link Over medium heat, sear all sides Method: cut into large pieces on bias into four slices. of shank until golden brown. 1 . Fabricate duck, reserving skin from 1 medium white onion, peeled, 3 . Remove shank from pan; add breast and trimmings for later use. cut into large pieces Duck cracklings onions, garlic, carrots and celery. 2 . Trim excess fat from duck legs; 6 garlic cloves, peeled, crushed Reserved skin from breast and Cook for a few minutes until reserve fat for cooking. 2 cloves trimmings from fabricated duck mirepoix is golden brown. 3 . Combine kosher salt, curing 1 thyme sprig Salt for seasoning 4 . Remove mirepoix from sautoir; salt, garlic cloves, black pepper, 1 bay leaf Duck fat for frying reserve. Remove fat from pan. sugar, thyme leaves and juniper Salt and pepper to taste Deglaze with wine; scrape sucs berries in mixing bowl. Rub legs Method: from bottom. Add stock and evenly with mixture. Method: 1 . Sprinkle trimmings with salt; let diced tomatoes. Add thyme, 4 . In a small tray, place legs 1 . Soak beans in cold water over night. sit overnight. bay leaf and cinnamon. Return about 1 inch apart. Cover with 2 . Remove beans from water; rinse. 2 . Rinse; pat dry.

14 Sizzle Fall 14 3 . Fry skin in duck fat until golden. Remove from fat. Pat dry again; chop into fine cracklings.

Bread crumbs Ingredients: 1 cup panko bread crumbs 1 t. minced garlic 1 t. duck fat 1 T. parsley, chopped Salt and pepper to taste

Method: 1 . Place crumbs on baking sheet covered with parchment paper. 2 . Toast in oven until golden brown. 3 . Transfer to small mixing bowl; toss with mixed minced garlic and chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

Small “cake” Method: 1 . Individually, dice a piece of lamb shank trimmings, pork belly and garlic sausage. Toss together in mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 2 . Assemble mixture into small rectangular ring mold to about

1 ∕8 inch from top. Bake at 350ºF for 3 minutes. Remove from oven; let stand for 1 minute. 3 . Top with seasoned bread crumbs. Gently remove from mold; hold until serving.

Assembly 1 . Warm large dinner plate in oven for an instant. 2 . Place large dollop of reserved bean puree off center of plate. Using dinner spoon, and starting from center of puree, spread puree in a “tirée” (long thread) method, leaving center clean. At end, place small amount of whole beans attractively. 3 . Place “cake” immediately below puree. 4 . Nicely arrange lamb shank, pork belly, bacon and sliced sausage in circular pattern. 5 . Lean seared duck leg on cake. 6 . Top lamb with its natural reduced juices; ladle a bit of it to surround all proteins. 7 . Gently arrange a line of duck cracklings where possible.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 15

Culinary Passport A stage (stahje) exposes cooks to different ways of preparing food and running restaurants—and could lead to a full- time position. // By Rob Benes

oing a stage is the culinary equivalent to going on a blind date. You’re excited, but anxious. It could go horribly wrong, or it could be the beginning of something long-term. In the end, Dyou have everything to gain and absolutely nothing to lose. Whether your stage goes well, or you never hear from the chef again, you’re better for the experience.

A stage is when you work briefly, for free, in another chef’s kitchen to learn and be exposed to new techniques and cuisines. Staging also can be done when trying to land a new job. The hiring chef assesses your culinary skills and observes how you interact with other staff. “Staging is a great way to peek behind Make a list of desirables in a staging the kitchen door to see what really goes locale. Include the type of food you on before, during and after service,” says like to eat, for example. If you don’t Chris Starkus, chef de cuisine, Urban like Italian, don’t stage in an Italian Farmer Steakhouse, Portland, Oregon. restaurant. If you like the fast pace of a “It allows a person to work in different large city, don’t stage in the country. Ask areas of hospitality—catering, butchery, yourself if you want to work in a fine- bakery, garde manger, fine dining, dining or fast-casual establishment. fast casual—so he or she can make a determination as to where to work and Doing more than one stage will give in what capacity.” you a benchmark, allowing you to make informed decisions about where you do Staging is a great Evaluate the following six considerations or do not want to work full time. “The to decide if staging could benefit you and more stages you have under your belt way to peek behind if you have what it takes. makes you a well-rounded chef,” says “ Tom Van Lente, executive chef, Two the kitchen door to 1. why stage Restaurant & Bar, Chicago. see what really goes Staging provides exposure to and on before service, experience in different kitchen 3. how to approach cultures. It allows the chance to do during service and a stage some initial work before accepting a Stages will not be advertised in the after service. job. You’re able to get into a kitchen newspaper. The best way to land a stage and see how it operates. is to go directly to the restaurant and — Chris Starkus, chef de cuisine, “The problem young cooks get connect with the hiring chef. An initial Urban Farmer Steakhouse,“ themselves into when looking for a job introductory phone call is not a bad way Portland, Oregon is they apply for one a friend told them to start, but don’t expect someone to call about or saw posted on the Internet you back if you leave a message. An email without doing any research about the could work, but don’t hold your breath establishment,” says David Kramer, waiting for a reply. “How you go about culinary instructor, College of DuPage, introducing yourself says a lot about Glen Ellyn, Illinois. Luck may have it your character,” says Van Lente. “Be that you get the position and discover persistent, but do it in the right way and a week later you don’t like the work in a professional manner.” or the environment and feel stuck in a Chefs are busy, so don’t knock on the above: Chris Starkus, chef dead-end job. back door at the wrong time. Don’t go de cuisine, Urban Farmer in the morning when no one is likely to Steakhouse, Portland, Oregon 2. where to stage Photo by Drew Tyson be there or product is being delivered. There is no right or wrong answer for opposite top: Chris Starkus Also, don’t go during service times. Mid- where you should or should not stage. It (right) shows eager learners afternoon between services is usually how to break down a carcass. doesn’t matter if it’s a Michelin-starred the best time. Photo by Drew Tyson kitchen or a fast-causal restaurant. Each opposite bottom: Tom Van stage will teach you something different Before knocking on the kitchen door, do Lente, executive chef, Two and help you determine the direction some homework on the restaurant. Know Restaurant & Bar, Chicago of your career. You need to go into a the menu inside and out. Understand the Photo by Shannon Marie Braniff restaurant with an open mind to learn. cooking techniques applied. Learn about

18 Sizzle Fall 14 the chefs. “I’m always impressed when someone comes to me prepared,” says Starkus. “It shows they’re motivated, want to work and want to learn.”

Don’t knock on the dining room door. Show up at the back door dressed appropriately. “It doesn’t really matter to me how you look, but people should look clean and put together,” says Joe Schafer, executive chef, King + Duke, Atlanta. “I do expect to see a resume, however.”

When you finally get in front of the hiring chef, don’t overstate skills just to get the stage. If you say you have great knife skills, you better be able to demonstrate them. “It doesn’t matter if it’s your first kitchen or your tenth kitchen, don’t blow 5. what to expect your horn saying, ‘This is how I’ve done it,’ because you’re there to learn how they and not to expect do it,” Van Lente says. from a stage Accept any task given to you without If the establishment does not take question. Sometimes it’s a test to see unsolicited knocks on the door, use how well you complete the task, even if whatever resources are available. This will it’s peeling potatoes for hours or washing show the hiring chef you’re determined walls. “Go in with an open mind,” says and motivated. If you send an email or Kramer. “Do every job you’re given to leave a voicemail, keep the message to the best of your ability.” only three or four sentences. The goal is to get the hiring chef’s attention and to If you’re asked to do something you be asked for an interview. haven’t done before or have not perfected, admit it. It’s better to be 4. how to prepare honest from the start than to make for a stage a mistake. This shows that you are quick tips for a Don’t be late, because you will probably interested and eager to learn. “You’ll successful stage ƒ not be let in the door. If you are told to find that people in the hospitality ƒ Research the restaurant you industry are willing to show you how want to stage. show up at 2 p.m., show up at 1:30 p.m. ƒƒ Show up 30 minutes earlier in street clothes and ask where to change. to do things right,” Starkus says. “We all than your start time. Don’t wear chef whites and chef pants to want to succeed in this industry. It’s a ƒƒ Change into your chef whites team environment.” at the restaurant. the restaurant. The point of chef clothes ƒƒ Don’t overstate your culinary is to be clean in the kitchen. “It’s a sign In addition to learning about food and skill set. of respect by showing you’re bringing in ƒƒ Accept all tasks given to you techniques, there’s the social aspect of clean clothes,” Van Lente says. and do your best. staging. You will be watched on how you Bring your knives, too, and have them interact with staff. Others will challenge sharpened and ready to go. you. Embrace it. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 19 NExt themselves to jump issue personal in when and where networking needed. They need to be ready to be engaged.”

Chefs always look for those who can come into the kitchen and immediately attack a challenge. Even if they fall short in execution, like making the perfect cut, but will jump in during service instead of standing off to the side, it’s very likely they will be asked to return.

The hospitality industry and kitchens have a hierarchy, so you have to earn your status in the kitchen. “One way to do that is to be motivated, show respect, A staging individual’s spot in the have good knife skills, know the basics of Do every job you’re kitchen at King + Duke depends on the cooking, be willing to learn and do what given to the best of person’s skill level and what might be it takes to make the restaurant succeed,” “ going on in the kitchen. For example, says Starkus. your ability. the restaurant has an open kitchen in the dining room with a 24-foot hearth 6. how long to — David Kramer, grill, so the cooks need to have solid culinary“ instructor, stage experience cooking in that environment You might be asked to stage for a special College of DuPage, and with that type of equipment. Glen Ellyn, Illinois event that lasts one day. You might be Those who stage at King + Duke are asked to stage for a one-week dinner asked to arrive mid-afternoon and series. Each stage is different. You may are given a tour of the kitchen. Next, determine after one day that it’s not a they are paired with a cook who good fit for you. But, no matter how goes through a list of required skills long you stage, do your best. “You never ranging from simple knife cuts to know who you’ll run into later on in making a sauce or vinaigrette to light your career who will remember you and butchery. “We’ll be evaluating through the hard work you put in—or lack of that process and starting to make a effort,” says Van Lente. determination if that person has the Rob Benes, a Chicago-based journalist, skills we need, has the attitude we want has 11 years of experience writing about and would fit in with the rest of the chefs, food, wine and spirits for trade, left: David Kramer (left), cooks for the night,” Schafer says. “We educational and consumer publications. culinary instructor, College open between 4:45-5 p.m., so if they of DuPage, works on knife skills with a student. make the cut, they would be working on Photo by Kevin Willman, mis en place until service. Once we get College of DuPage rolling, I fully expect them to dive into right: Joe Schafer, executive service and help out. In the beginning, chef, King + Duke, Atlanta I want them to be paired with someone, Photo by Rickie Arpino watching, taking notes and situating

20 Sizzle Fall 14 One Team. One Dream. ACF Culinary Team USA competes at the Expogast Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup, Nov. 22-26, in Luxembourg. Support these talented team members as they represent the culinary industry, ACF and the U.S. in this major international culinary competition.

Left to right: Ben Grupe; George Castaneda, CEC; Jason Hall, CMC; Aaron Haga, CEC; Timothy Prefontaine, CEC, coach; Joseph Leonardi, CEC; Corey Siegel, CC; Matthew Seasock, CEC; Shawn Culp, CEC; Joseph Albertelli; and Alison Murphy.

Like team on Facebook and watch the ACFCulinaryTeamUSA2016 @ACFChefs acfchefs.org/Team FoLLow us on twitter video Sweet + Heat Freshens Menus

Chefs strike a delicate balance to add beloved sweetness alongside spicy heat without overwhelming the palate. By Kathryn Kjarsgaard

The ever-present quest to add fresh, new flavors and ethnic notes to menus is fueling the sweet-plus-heat flavor trend on menus, from high-end establishments to casual-chain restaurants.

Actually, the flavor duo is not a new phenonmenon, but rather is showing up in new places, says Allen Susser, owner of Chef Allen’s Consulting, Miami, with the National Mango Board as one of his clients.

“People like it because we are discovering more ethnic foods that portray lots of different flavors,” he says, adding that Americans often associate sweet plus heat with Asian cooking. “As we discover new ways of eating and new flavor combinations, we are enjoying a little more heat and incorporating it into our cuisine and daily lives.”

John Castro, executive chef of Winston’s Restaurant and partner at Yang Kee Noodle, both in Louisville, Kentucky, is of Filipino heritage and has lived in various parts of the world, which inspires him to play with different flavors.

“When using heat, people’s first inclination is to overkill it,” he says. “They forget about flavor. It’s a matter of tempering your palate.” For example, combine sweet and heat in appetizers to stimulate the palate. Then pull back the heat, for the salad, entree and dessert. Likewise, if serving a spicier entree, pull back any heat in the appetizer, salad and dessert.

“You don’t want to overburden the palate too quickly, because you want guests to order more product,” Castro says. “You want to look at the entire menu.”

mozzarella and chunks of the sausage. After baking, he finishes it off with drizzles of local honey and sprinkles of sea salt and dried Sicilian oregano.

“The spicy sausage overwhelms you for a second, but then another bite will help because the other ingredients balance it out,” he says. “The honey neutralizes the reaction.”

However, he cautions that without enough honey, it's a totally different taste experience. “You have to train your Even cocktails can follow the sweet- and-spicy menu trend, as in this Bee staff carefully,” he says. Sting cocktail served at Winston’s Restaurant. The ingredients are simply Castro says he looks to other parts honey, cayenne, lemon and vodka. It of the plate to balance a spicy dish at gets the name Bee Sting from the bite of the cayenne to the palate. Winston’s. He crusts catfish or chicken Photo by Jaimie Schapker with housemade sweet-heat chips and balances the spicy protein with grilled finding balance vegetables or a salad. “It’s all about The combination of sweet and spicy is mouth feel, textures and flavor profile,” an interesting concept, as both release he adds. “A balance of vinegar or acid endorphins, says Michael Petres, can temper the sweet and heat. Add a executive chef of Pastaria, St. Louis. fruit to the mix so it’s not just grilled “You punish and reward yourself.” vegetables. You can add raw fruit like mango or papaya to a salad to temper, The Salume Beddu Nduja Pizza at balance and flatten it out a bit.” Pastaria balances the flavors of spicy nduja sausage with the sweet taste of honey. The At Yang Kee Noodle, the green curry entree (made with chicken or shrimp) previous page: Winston’s restaurant sources the sausage from a local includes kobacha squash, lots of herbs Restaurant, Louisville, Kentucky, serves Italian salami shop called Salume Beddu. and lime to balance the hot Thai chilies. chicken crusted with housemade Made in Italy, the spreadable sausage is sweet-heat potato chips. “The squash also adds a creaminess. made with red, hot calabrian chilies. Photo by Jaimie Schapker If you coat the palate with something above right: The Lumpia Shanghai The bright red nduja sausage combines creamy or fatty first, the acid can rinse Philippine Spring Roll at Winston’s pork fat and lean pork. “When you cook the palate and introduce the spice more Restaurant tastes best when dipped in Mae Ploy sweet chili sauce or it, it almost melts and has a texture like clearly,” Castro says. Chinese mustard, both served with it. soft butter. We love the sausage, and it Susser advises that straight heat and Photo by Jaimie Schapker inspired us to create the pizza,” Petres says. opposite left: Firecracker Chicken sweet work as long as they are not from Yang Kee Noodle. Before he bakes the pizza, he tops overwhelming, and other components Photo by John Castro it with tomato sauce, sliced garlic, are balanced, like salty and bitter

24 Sizzle Fall 14 Photo by Anne Croy

aztec chocolate gelato Anne Croy, pastry chef Pastaria, St. Louis

Yield: 32 ½-cup servings

ingredients: 960 grams milk 504 grams heavy cream 51 grams milk powder 250 grams sugar elements. “All these flavors are part of chicken and blackened shrimp served 28 grams Askinosie cocoa powder our palate. Tasting and balancing are on a bed of ginger rice. The popular 50 grams glucose syrup rind of 1 orange tremendously important,” he says. glaze, which had been used in various applications on different proteins, has slurry ingredients: 120 grams milk savory a crushed red pepper chili base and 50 grams sugar applications resembles a red Asian chili sauce. 29 grams cornstarch Chain restaurants are boldly adding The Sweet Heat Chicken & Shrimp finishing ingredients: 82 grams cream cheese dishes with sweet and spicy flavors dish is on the lighter side of the menu 160 grams Askinosie bittersweet to their menus, including Cheddar’s as it contains fewer than 575 calories. chocolate pieces Casual Café, Irving, Texas, which 120 grams milk, pureed with 2 deseeded “We knew the sauce was great and habanero chili peppers offers Sweet Heat Chicken & Shrimp. that it would allow us to deliver big 3/4 t. cinnamon 1½ t. vanilla “One of our most popular dishes flavor in a lower-calorie dish. This is is our New Orleans pasta, which is a delicious combination of different method: flavors. There’s enough heat to taste 1. Combine milk, cream, milk powder, creamy and spicy, so we knew some sugar, cocoa powder, glucose syrup people liked spicy items,” says Robert it, but it dies off a little. There’s a and orange rind in medium stockpot. Pesch, vice president of culinary delicate balance. If it’s too hot or too Bring to a simmer, stirring periodically. sweet, it’s not delivering correctly on 2. Create smooth slurry with milk, research and development for the sugar and cornstarch. Add slurry to chain, which operates in 27 states. flavor,” he says. simmering mixture; return to a boil, “We wanted to add a new spicy menu stirring constantly. “Sweet and heat is a flavor profile that 3. Remove from heat; remove orange item but wanted it to be approachable, can be overwhelming,” he adds. “You rind. Add cream cheese, chocolate so the sweet element helps us pieces, habanero milk, cinnamon and wouldn’t want to marinate something accomplish that.” vanilla. With stick blender, combine all in it. If there’s sugar in the sauce, then a ingredients until a smooth custard is achieved. Turn out into plastic storage The heat comes from a mango- protein that is marinated in the sweet- container; refrigerate overnight. chili glaze that is drizzled on grilled heat mixture would burn on the grill. 4. Spin cold custard in gelato spinner. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 25 The peach habanero hot sauce is the crowd favorite, containing sweet, spicy, salty and sour flavor notes. “I wanted to harness those flavors, Hoth says. “You have to be careful with habanero, as the palate can burn. I added sugar, a touch of salt and vinegar to get the balance right. I had to ask for help from a few different cooks to taste it, because my mouth was on fire after a while.”

Susser likes to use mangoes and heat in side dishes and salads. “Mangoes have a natural sweetness but are savory, and the heat really accentuates the mango as seen on menus You want to add it as a glaze or sauce at flavor. The richness and heat work well As diners seek new and interesting flavors the end of the process.” that they don’t necessarily eat at home, the together,” he says. sweet-plus-heat combo is an option going mainstream, appearing on menus at popular At Yang Kee Noodle, one of the most A versatile mango chutney recipe he chain restaurants across the country. popular dishes is Firecracker Chicken, developed includes cider vinegar,

At Applebee’s, the Fiesta Chicken Chopped which includes lo mein, chicken, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, allspice, Salad features a spicy jalapeno dressing that walnuts, broccoli, onions and Korean garlic, white onion and Scotch bonnets, complements the sweeter chimichurri glazed red chili sauce. Castro says the dish uses grilled chicken and black bean corn salsa. a Caribbean red chile pepper. Brown Among the appetizers are chips with spicy the Korean chili sauce gochujang with sugar, golden raisins and mangoes chipotle lime salsa. the heat balanced by walnuts, so the dish provide the sweetness.

Boston Market, famous for rotisserie contains bitter, sweet and hot flavors. chicken, offers honey habanero sauce to “I like a lot of heat and spice in a kick the flavor up a notch. Sweet Thai chili sauces and sides chutney,” Susser says. “This mango garlic is another of its sauces described as a chutney is great on grilled chicken, traditional Thai sauce with chilies, rice wine The fare at recently opened LOW vinegar and sugar. lamb chops, pork chops or steak.” Country Kitchen, Steamboat Springs, The Cheesecake Factory offers its Colorado, is complemented by two Susser also created a mango- Firecracker Salmon appetizer described as spiced fresh salmon rolled in spinach and sauces found on each table—peach watermelon salad, which can be fried in a crisp wrapper, served with a sweet habanero hot sauce and jalapeno green served with grilled shrimp as an entree hot chili sauce. tomato hot sauce. Both were created by or makes a nice side salad with the Panda Express offers its SweetFire Chicken chef de cuisine Ryan Hoth and chef de addition of feta cheese. The heat comes Breast entree with crispy white-meat from red Thai or jalapeno chilies, which chicken bites tossed in the wok with red partie Chereen Leong for the Southern- he uses fresh, raw and thinly sliced. He bell peppers, diced onions and pineapple, cuisine restaurant. featuring a zesty, sweet chili sauce. balances it with rice wine vinegar, a “With Southern cuisine, some people touch of canola oil and sesame oil. The Rubio’s offers a Mango Habanero Mahi Mahi Taco that includes spicy mango like it spicy and some don’t,” says Hoth. sweetness comes from mangoes and pineapple habanero salsa—a smoky red Keeping the sauces at the table allows watermelon. He adds a little sharpness chile sauce made with guajillo, ancho and red jalapeno chiles. The menu also features guests to try the different flavors and with scallions and red onions and tops an Ancho Citrus Shrimp Burrito. control the heat level themselves. it off with toasted cumin.

26 Sizzle Fall 14 NExt issue sous vide salume cooking beddu nduja pizza Pastaria, St. Louis

Yield: 1 pizza

for dough: 24 oz. hard winter wheat flour ½ oz. kosher salt 1 t. active dry yeast, dissolved in water 1 t. oil 15 oz. cool water

method: 1. Combine flour, salt, yeast, oil and water in bowl until dough is smooth. Transfer dough to lightly oiled work surface. Rub a little oil on hands. Fold dough into smooth ball. Let it rest on work surface covered in plastic for 20 minutes. 2. Cut dough into five equal portions; roll into tight balls. Place on lightly oiled sheet tray. Cover with plastic wrap; refrigerate immediately overnight. of the National Mango Board Courtesy 3. Remove dough from refrigerator 2-3 hours prior to baking. Stretch dough balls with Featuring different textures, the Deseeded habanero chili peppers offer your hands; let sit on semolina flour. mango is creamy and fleshy, while the up the heat for the Aztec chocolate for topping: watermelon is crisp and watery. “The gelato created by pastry chef Anne 2 oz. pureed Valoroso “Robusto” style heat gives more depth and dimension Croy at Pastaria. canned tomatoes to the sweet flavors. This is great for 1 oz. Salume Beddu Spicy Nduja Of her dessert, Petres says, “You get a 2 oz. Calabro fior di latte mozzarella tropical eating and refreshing in the heat tingle of heat with each bite, and some 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced and humidity of Miami,” Susser says. 1 t. dried Calabrian oregano bites have more of a spike in heat than ½ t. fleur de sel sea salt 1 T. locally sourced honey spicy desserts others. But the fat calms it down. Chili pepper is a fruit, and it can bring out a method: At Winston’s, Castro has served a roasted, raisony flavor when combined Top dough with Salume Beddu Spicy bitter chocolate terrine, which includes with certain ingredients. You can get Nduja, tomatoes and mozzarella. Disperse garlic evenly. Slide pizza peel underneath; Korean chili flakes coated with cream more of a fruitiness from the pepper in transfer to a 550ºF oven on pizza stone. and cocoa fat, which balances the an ice cream.” Once pizza is finished, drizzle with honey; flavor. “Heat and chocolate are a great sprinkle on sea salt and oregano. flavor pairing,” he says. Kathryn Kjarsgaard is a freelance food writer based in Forest Park, Illinois. opposite: Green curry from As a word of caution, he notes that hot Yang Kee Noodle sauces with vinegar will not work with Photo by John Castro chocolate ice cream. “Using Mae Ploy above: Mango manchego stuffed jalapenos with sweet chili sauce or Sriracha would curry cornmeal crunch work better with the fat and cream of developed by Meryl Connell the ice cream, as they don’t include of Southwest Soul Catering , vinegar,” he says. Essex Fells, New Jersey www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 Those who cook for athletes consider it an exciting and rewarding career—evidenced by the low turnover rate.

By Suzanne Hall ne strike and you’re out. That’s what Effie Speigler tells the cooks he sends into the locker room of major league baseball O team the Oakland Athletics. He believes it’s an honor to serve food to such high-caliber athletes. He expects his team to feel the same way. Speigler is executive chef for the team and for the ORACLE Arena and O.co Coliseum, Oakland, California. His employer, Ovations Food Services, LP, Lutz, Florida, manages the food operations at the venues. Like Speigler, if you want to work for a sports team, you can go through the management company that handles its foodservice operations. Alternatively, you could get in on a team that handles its own foodservice. Other teams contract with catering companies to provide their meals. In any case, if you love sports, thrive on being where the action is or are motivated to provide nutritional fuel to keep athletes at the top of their game, a sports-team chef or cook position might be just for you. Good food and familiar people are key to keeping team members happy. Because the athletes feel more comfortable when they know who’s feeding them, Speigler avoids making changes in the cooking team. He wants his cooks to succeed and trains them to do so. Mac McNabb, chef for the National Football League’s Seattle Seahawks, concurs that cooks who are familiar to him and the players are essential. Some members of his team of six have worked with him for all of his 14 years feeding the Seahawks. Add to that the ability to adapt to athletes’ different needs, and you are defining the jobs held by Genny Komar, CC, and Jacqueline Hamilton, CEC, AAC. Komar is the executive chef for Grill at 1810, a Philadelphia-based Aramark managed facility at the University of Mississippi, Oxford. She’s held that position since the grill opened in early 2014 to feed the university’s athletes and others. She and her staff of seven, including line cooks and a sous chef, operate an innovative program that has been featured in The New York Times and is a model Make it happen is a motto at Strategic for other National Collegiate Athletic Hospitality Group, Miami, where Association schools. Michael Jacobs is CEO and chef. For the past eight years, Hamilton has For four seasons, he and his team been senior executive chef for the U.S. prepared breakfast, lunch and Olympic Committee at the Olympic sometimes dinner for the National Training Center in Colorado Springs, Basketball Association’s Miami Heat. He still feeds the coaches. He Colorado. She began her tenure there believes that in this and any business, 27 years ago overseeing the salad bar you have to know and provide the and hot food. She was executive chef wants and needs of your clientele. for six years before being promoted to top: Genny Komar is executive chef If someone wants smoothies on her current position. With the help of a for Grill at 1810, a Philadelphia-based the dinner menu, then there are 22-member staff, including an executive Aramark managed facility at the smoothies on the dinner menu. sous chef, sous chefs and float chefs, University of Mississippi, Oxford. she serves about 350,000 meals each bottom: The nutritional value of fruit Feeding athletes isn’t necessarily trays makes them especially important year. She uses the word privilege often to athletes. Courtesy of Effie Speigler difficult. In fact, Speigler calls in describing her job, having had the opposite left: Queso chorizo dip with it the easiest part of his job. His opportunity to travel to six Olympic cotija cheese, tomatoes, scallions and responsibilities also include competitions. She, like Komar, has to tri-color corn tortilla chips. overseeing the concession services Courtesy of Effie Speigler adapt to the differing nutritional needs and private dining for fans and the opposite top: Educational display of men and women competitors and media during games and other events station. Courtesy of the athletes in various sports. U.S. Olympic Committee at the arena and coliseum. He and opposite bottom: Asian grilled chicken other pro-team chefs agree that you salad with cabbage, edamame, need to know carrots, red pepper, cashews, have to be flexible and able to think crispy wontons and sesame ponzu on your feet. “You have to bob and Good cooking skills are a given vinaigrette. Courtesy of Effie Speigler weave,” Jacobs says. if you want to work in the sports

30 Sizzle Fall 14 world. So is experience. Speigler, a Many sports-team executive chefs worth the read graduate of The Culinary Institute look for culinary school grads Polish or refresh your nutrition IQ with these books. All are available at amazon.com. of America, Hyde Park, New York, when hiring. Work experience also worked in health spas in Europe and is important to them. “How do “Advanced Sports Nutrition, 2nd Edition,” Dan Benardot, Human Kinetics, 2012, ran a catering service in Brooklyn, you know you’ll like working in a available for Kindle New York, before entering the kitchen if you’ve never been in one?” “Culinary Nutrition Principles and sports world. Hamilton asks. Applications,” Linda Trakselis and Eric Stein, American Technical Publishers, 2013 Jacobs graduated from the culinary Nutrition knowledge is one of the most “Culinary Nutrition: The Science and arts program at Johnson & Wales important things a new hire can bring Practice of Healthy Cooking,” Jacqueline B. University, Providence, Rhode Island, to a kitchen that feeds professional, Marcus, Academic Press, 2013, available studied and apprenticed in Europe, college or Olympic athletes. Take for Kindle worked with chefs Michel and Albert nutrition courses and pay attention is a “Nutrition for Foodservice and Culinary Roux in London, at the Grand Hotel mantra worth adopting. Professionals, 8th edition,” Karen E. Drummond and Lisa M. Brefere, John Wiley Amrâth Amsterdam in Amsterdam, Those looking for a job in the world & Sons, Inc., 2013, available for Kindle and in Jerusalem and Los Angeles. of sports need to know at least “Sports Nutrition: From Lab to Kitchen,” “When I was starting out, I would go the nutrition basics. Hamilton’s edited by Asker Jeukendrup, Meyer & in early and stay late so I could learn Meyer Sport (UK) Ltd., 2010, available for menus, for example, are designed as much as possible,” he says. Kindle to help athletes achieve their full “Techniques of Healthy Cooking, 4th Hamilton, who has a degree in performance potential. They are rich Edition, Professional Edition,” The Culinary food management, agrees with that in antioxidants, fruits, vegetables, Institute of American, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2013, available for Kindle approach. She tells her staff that whole grains, heart-healthy fats they are responsible for their success and a variety of lean proteins. and must stay focused, learning She doesn’t focus so much on the something new every day. number of calories in a meal, but www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31 athlete feel like he or she is the most important person in the room. She also looks for team players and those with the ability to lead.

“You’ve got to care about what you are putting out and have a mellow attitude,” McNabb says. “You’ll never see me fly off the handle.” a day in the life McNabb doesn’t lose his temper, and he doesn’t let the long hours get to him. Just as professional athletes work year-round either playing, practicing on whether or not they are the right or staying in shape, the chefs who kind of calories. feed them generally have 12-month jobs. McNabb feeds his team Komar strongly believes her nutrition breakfast and lunch six days a week. background gave her a big advantage He feeds the coaching staff dinner when she was being considered Monday through Thursday. The for the position at The University Seattle native and longtime Seahawks of Mississippi. During the hiring fan is off on game-day Sundays. He process, she was finishing up a does watch the game. During training master’s degree in nutrition and camp, the kitchen opens at 3:45 a.m. culinary science. Previously she had when McNabb arrives. He works until worked as a registered dietitian. dinner time, but the kitchen operates The individuals Jacobs hires must be until about 9 p.m. He doesn’t usually passionate about nutrition. The entire travel with the team, but did when staff keeps abreast of the latest studies they went to the Super Bowl. and researches the players’ special needs. Speigler’s hours can vary considerably. Chefs and cooks aren’t alone when it Most days he works 12 hours. comes to planning the menus for their Depending on the team’s and arena’s athletes. Team trainers, dietitians and schedules, he can have several days nutritionists also play a role. off in a row or work for two months straight without a break. To make it as a culinarian in the sports world, it’s not necessary to be a Since Olympic athletes train scholar. It is necessary to be a people year-round, Hamilton doesn’t person and one who respects the really experience any down time. clientele. Hamilton looks for workers Nevertheless, she calls working who can make each customer/ for the U.S. Olympic Committee a

32 Sizzle Fall 14 NExt issue foodservice distributor chef

dream job. She works 50 to 55 hours comfort food. You have to recognize what it takes a week for the nonprofit entity where that these are generally kids we are Sports-team chefs and cooks are: ƒƒ Passionate about food and cooking the customers are appreciative and feeding. If they don’t recognize it, ƒƒ Eager to learn liberal with their praise. they won’t eat it,” says McNabb. ƒƒ Experienced in the kitchen ƒƒ Well-versed in nutrition With practices and sports camps, While some chefs say the pressure ƒƒ Team players ƒƒ Leaders college athletics tend to go on is less in the clubhouse than would ƒƒ Respectful of their customers throughout the year, and campus be in a restaurant, they are quick to ƒƒ Flexible and adaptable dining venues stay open year-round. point out that every job has a crunch opposite top: Kim Adams, CEC, time. They don’t expect to get rich, When Komar begins her day at 7 corporate chef for produce a.m., breakfast is in full swing. After but feel they are paid fairly for what supplier Cooseman’s Denver, Inc., checking in on how the line is doing, they do. What they earn depends and John Prior a sous chef for the she turns her attention to making on their experience, tenure and who U.S. Olympic Committee, work an sure the staff can produce the their actual employer is. Cooks in interactive station during a nutrition amount of food needed, overseeing a team kitchen can expect to bring month celebration. Courtesy of the U.S. Olympic Committee storage and stock and planning in between $16 and $20 an hour. opposite bottom: Deluxe eggs menus, among other things. While Benefits generally are good, including benedict. Courtesy of the U.S. her dining room caters to athletes, it insurance, paid vacation and 401ks. Olympic Committee is open to the public and has a room And, the excitement of being part above left: Buffet lines are for private parties. of the team and helping the athletes common with sports teams. succeed is an added perk. Courtesy of Effie Speigler Buffets, pasta, stir-fry and carving above right: Jacqueline Hamilton, stations are the norm where athletes Suzanne Hall has been writing about CEC, AAC, senior executive chef for the U.S. Olympic Committee are being fed. The menus usually chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her home in Soddy-Daisy, Tennessee, for more at the Olympic Training Center, are varied and adhere to what the than 25 years. Colorado Springs, Colorado, with a players like to eat. “We serve healthy snowboard athlete. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 by degrees duck confit by degrees

Duck Confit By Dan Mule, CEC, CCE Photography by Josie Yadeska

he word confit comes from the Next, the meat is cooked slowly in French word confire, which means its fat until tender. At that point, it T “to preserve.” It was a practice is transferred to a vessel and sealed used by most early civilizations as a with the fat. The solidified layer of fat storage method. eliminates and prevents air from getting to the meat during the storage process. The technique is commonly applied to Dan Mules This is another critical element to is a chef instructor at Le Cordon Bleu College of meat that is cured with salt, then cooked Culinary Arts in Scottsdale, Scottsdale, Arizona. negate aerobic microbial growth. Thus, and stored in its own fat. Traditionally, we see that the confit process addresses meat for confit was placed in crocks or all of the critical food safety elements other earthenware vessels, then packed in that pertain to microbial growth. its cooking fat and stored in the root cellar. Today, vacuum packaging and freezers Duck confit is believed to originate in exist to aid with preserving food. But, in the Gascony region of France and is an the past, without these luxuries, preserving integral part of the famous cassoulet. the season’s meats was necessary so it This Gascony favorite also lends itself would last through the winter. well to salads, terrines, pâtés and stews.

The first step in the preservation process Today, confit is no longer used as a for making confit is to cure the meat preservation method. However, it with salt. This inhibits the growth of continues to be used as an integral microorganisms in two ways. First, it preparation technique in many dehydrates the meat and eliminates much professional kitchens, because of the

Sauteed duck leg confit with of the water that microorganisms need tastes and textures it yields. frisée lettuce, pickled red onions, to grow. The salt concentration and acid butternut squash puree and level also renders the remaining water in cabernet sauvignon gastrique. the meat toxic to almost all microbes.

34 Sizzle Fall 14 Step 1 Step 4 ingredients Prepare the curing mix using a standard 3-to- Remove legs from cure. Rinse thoroughly 3 duck legs 1 salt-to-sugar ratio. Consider adding such to remove salt; purge in cold water for 30 1 quart duck fat aromatics as garlic, thyme, bay leaf, juniper minutes. ¾ cup sea salt and black peppercorns. ¼ cup brown sugar Several sprigs of thyme 3 garlic cloves, sliced thin 1 or 2 bay leaves, broken up 5 black peppercorns, crushed

equipment 5- or 6-quart cocotte, Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed sauce pot Cutting board Boning knife Thermometer Storage container large enough to hold legs while salting Step 2 Large mixing bowl Trim excess skin and fat off duck legs. helpful hints ƒƒ Save all the duck trimmings, which can be rendered for the fat. ƒƒ Don’t allow duck fat to reach the Step 5 smoking point. It will destroy the Remove legs from water; pat dry. Place in flavor of the fat, making it useless for cocotte or other heavy-bottomed pan with cooking confit. duck fat. ƒƒ French the leg bone and remove the thigh bone after the duck is cooked. It will improve the presentation. ƒƒ Crisp the skin when reheating, which will enhance the flavor and texture. Step 3 ƒƒ Duck confit is often a little salty. To Set aside enough curing mix to cover duck offset this, plate it with something a legs. Rub legs with leftover curing mix. Coat little sweet. bottom of a storage container with some of the cure mix. Place legs in container; cover with remaining mix. Seal container; refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

Step 6 Cook on stovetop or in oven at 180°F until tender, about 3 to 4 hours.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 Events acf national convention competition winners events

ACF National Convention Competition Winners

iligence, creativity and great coaches competing for the national title. At this are features that the 2014 ACF year’s competition, the finalists had 1 hour, D student national award winners have 10 minutes, to prepare, cook and serve two in common. Each was recognized at the portions of a two-course meal (appetizer President’s Grand Ball, July 29, held at the and entree). Kansas City Marriott Downtown on the final day of the 2014 ACF National Convention. Grove has received numerous silver medals as a member of Culinary Team Nebraska Student Chef of the Year since 2010. He also received a silver medal Chase Grove (pictured), chef de partie, The at the 2010 ACF Culinary Youth Team USA Grey Plume, Omaha, Nebraska, a member tryouts. In 2012, he served as an American of ACF Professional Chefs and Culinarians student delegate to the WACS World of the Heartland, received the 2014 Student Congress in Daejeon, South Korea. Chef of the Year Award and $1,000 after a He is pursuing an associate degree in cook-off on the trade-show floor July 27. culinary arts and management from The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College, Omaha.

His winning menu was roulade of breast and forcemeat of thigh, poached fennel, grilled baby leeks, pickled kohlrabi, peach puree, parisienne gnocchi, pickled peach, mizuna, grilled peach, liver mousse, pistachio granola and raspberry gastrique (pictured). The Student Chef of the Year Award, sponsored by Custom Culinary, Inc., was Baron H. Galand Culinary established in 1987, and in 2003, the Knowledge Bowl culinary cook-off was introduced at the Students from Guilford Technical national convention, with regional finalists Community College, Jamestown, North

36 Sizzle Fall 14 Carolina, representing the Southeast Central Region Wins Region, won the 2014 Baron H. Galand Student Team National Culinary Knowledge Bowl, sponsored Championship by American Technical Publishers and A team from ACF Greater Kansas City Chefs US Foods. Team members Aisha Boston, Association/Johnson County Community Jessica Bower, Jeffrey Craddock, Alexia College, Overland Park, Kansas, won the D’Egidio and Michael Nasrallah, members 2014 Student Team National Championship of ACF North Carolina Chapter, were after a competition on the trade-show floor coached by Linda Beitz and Patrick July 28. Team members Raquel Kramer, Sanecki, CHE. Katie O’Connor, Matt Phillips, Kathryn The competition among four finalist teams, Ratzlaff and Jessica Seely were coached by one from each ACF region, took place on Felix Sturmer. the trade-show floor July 27. The annual The ACF Student Team Championship, “Jeopardy”-style competition is open to junior culinary teams from ACF chapters, established in 1992, has been sponsored apprenticeship programs and ACF Education by R.L. Schreiber, Inc., since its inception. Foundation-accredited schools. Competition It is designed to raise the standards of questions are compiled from culinary culinary excellence and professionalism top left: Students from textbooks that cover such topics as nutrition; among students, promote camaraderie Guilford Technical baking; culinary math; safety and sanitation; and educational opportunities, and act as a Community and classical and modern cooking. staging area for research and development of College, Jamestown, North culinary concepts. Carolina, win the 2014 The Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Baron H. Galand Culinary Bowl was first held at the 1992 ACF During the national competition, five Knowledge Bowl. National Convention in Washington, D.C., teams—one finalist team from each ACF top right: From ACF Central the brainchild of Carol Kelly, a member of region and one military team—prepared Region, students from ACF Nations Capital Chefs Association a four-course signature menu, with 24 Johnson County Community and a culinary instructor who used the portions of each course judged at random College, Overland Park, competition format to test her vocational during service. Teams had 3 hours, 20 Kansas, win Student Team high school students. As the competition minutes for prepping and cooking, and 20 National Championship. grew, it was named after former ACF minutes per course for plate up. There was bottom: Katie O'Connor national president and longtime advocate of a 30-minute setup window and a 30-minute from Johnson County apprentices and juniors Baron H. Galand. cleanup window. Teams also served their Community College www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 37 Events acf national convention competition winners

dishes to ticketed guests at the ACF ACF Northeast Region Student Student Team Competition lunch on the Award Winners trade-show floor. Student competitors from the Northeast captured their regional awards during the 2014 Before going on to win the national ACF Northeast Regional Conference held in championship, students from across the Providence, Rhode Island, April 11-14. The Midwest competed for their regional awards student team placed second at nationals. during the 2014 ACF Central Conference Students representing ACF Rhode Island held in St. Louis, March 16-19. Chapter from Johnson & Wales University, Providence, won the Northeast Region The Central Region Baron H. Galand Student Team Championship. Team Culinary Knowledge Bowl winners were members were Luis Alvarado, Frank Carrieri, from Kendall College, Chicago. Team CJC, Dimitri Demopoulos, Spyridon members were Molly Anderson, Alex Giannakoulopoulos, CC, and Matthew Gabrielson, Frank Hutman, Michael McDonald. Ray McCue, CEC, was the coach. Lanzerotte and Jeremy Noga. Dina Altieri, CEC, CCE, CHE, M.S., was the coach. Students representing ACF Eastern Long Island Chefs Chapter, Riverhead, New York, were named champions of the Northeast Region Baron H. Galand Culinary Knowledge Bowl. Team members were Lynn Bohlen, Satoko Matthews, Lillian Senior and Vincent Sperling. Andrea Glick was the coach.

Geoffrey Lanez, student, CC, Johnson & Wales University from the ACF Rhode Island Chapter, received Northeast Region Student Chef of the Year.

ACF Western Region Student Award Winners These student award winners competed to be named the best in the West during the 2014 ACF Western Regional Conference held in Oakland, California, March 2-5.

Students representing LCB College of Culinary Arts—Los Angeles; Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Los Angeles, Pasadena, California, 2014 ACF Regional Student won the Western Region Student Team Award Winners Recognized Championship. Team members were Angelo Congratulations are in order for the ACF Bulanadi, Nicole Celine, Christina Gray, student award winners from the three Marcia Himawan and Kristyn Williams. other regions and military who won their Randy Torres, CEC, AAC, was the coach. respective regional titles during the 2014 Students representing Lake Washington ACF Events Series. These contenders went Institute of Technology, Kirkland, on to represent their region and compete at Washington, were named the winners the national competition. of the Western Region Baron H. Galand

38 Sizzle Fall 14 Culinary Knowledge Bowl. Team members following tryouts July 27 and 28 on the were Ashley Haight, Tamera Harris, trade-show floor. Annie Martin and Alyssa Pereira. Matthew DiMeo, CEC, and Janet Waters, CWPC, “The level of competition was amazing, were the coaches. and made our jobs as judges incredibly hard,” says ACF Culinary Youth Team USA Victor Perez Ruiz, graduate, Culinary Arts manager J. Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC. Institute at Utah Valley University, Orem, Utah, from ACF Beehive Chefs Chapter “We were extremely impressed with all the Inc., brought home the title of Western young chefs who participated.” Region Student Chef of the Year.

ACF Southeast Region Student Award Winners Students vied for their regional awards at the 2014 ACF Southeast Regional Conference held in Charleston, South Carolina, April 26-29.

Students representing ACF North Carolina Chapter from Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College, Asheville, North Carolina, won the Southeast Region Student Team Championship. Team members were Kristina Costa, Alex Harris, Jadrien O’Hannon, Ruth Solis and Caroline Williams. Eric Backer, CEC, was the coach.

Derek Colglazier, line cook, Cherokee Town and Country Club, Atlanta, ACF Eleven candidates qualified to try Atlanta Chefs Association, Inc., was named Southeast Region Student Chef of the Year. out for the team following cold-food presentations at the 2014 ACF regional U.S. Military Winners conferences. They each had 1 hour to Military chefs representing the U.S. Army, produce either four portions of an entree Joint Culinary Center of Excellence from using flat iron steak or four portions of a Fort Stewart, Georgia, won the 2014 U.S. dessert comprising a baked item, sauce and Army Culinary Arts Competition held at fruit, including lychee nuts. Judges were Fort Lee, Fort Lee, Virginia. Walker (lead judge), Rene Marquis, CEC, Team members were Pfc. Nyndia CCE, CCA, AAC, and James McCallister, Charles, Spc. Rasheeda Etheredge, Spc. CEC, AAC. Symone Harden, Spc. William Lewis and clockwise from top left on All eight youth team members will work Pfc. Ferney Perlaza. Staff Sgt. Dianna opposite page: ACF Northeast and practice monthly with ACF Royal and David Turcotte, CEC, AAC, Region Student Team Winners, Culinary National Team USA, to get ready were the coaches. ACF Southeast Region Student for the American Culinary Classic, July Team Winners, ACF Western ACF Culinary Youth Team 30-Aug. 2, 2015, in Orlando, Florida, and Region Student Team Winners, USA Named the Internationale Kochkunst U.S. Military Team Winners Eight young cooks were chosen as members Ausstellung (IKA), Oct. 22-25, 2016, in above: 2016 ACF Culinary of 2016 ACF Culinary Youth Team USA Erfurt, Germany. Youth Team USA www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 Events acf national convention competition winners

• Trae Shriner, a student ambassador at Oregon Coast Culinary Institute, Coos Bay, Oregon, and a line cook at Bandon Dunes Golf Resort, Bandon, Oregon, a member of ACF Bay Area Chefs Association of Oregon

Chef Educator of the Year Jean Yves Vendeville (pictured), CEPC, department chair/instructor, Savannah Technical College, Savannah, Georgia, and a member of ACF Chefs of the Low Country, is the 2014 Chef Educator of the Year. Vendeville received the award and $5,000 following the Chef Educator of the Year competition, which was held on the trade- show floor July 27-28.

The ACF Chef Educator of the Year Award, 2016 ACF Culinary Youth Team USA established in 1998, pays tribute to an active members are: culinary educator whose knowledge, skills and expertise have enhanced the image of • Megan Bamford, a pastry cook at The the professional chef and who has given Greenbrier, White Sulphur Springs, West leadership, guidance and direction to students Virginia, a member of ACF Bay Area seeking a career in the culinary profession. Chefs Association of Oregon Vendeville, who was born in France, received • Kristyn Chatlosh, a student at Joliet Junior his culinary education in his home country College, Joliet, Illinois, a member of ACF and in Canada. He previously was executive Louis Joliet Chapter pastry chef at Four Seasons Hotel Toronto; executive pastry chef at Ritz-Carlton • Jordan Gardiner, a demi chef at Myers Montréal; coordinator of the baking and Park Country Club, Charlotte, North pastry program at George Brown College, Carolina, a member of ACF North Toronto; and executive chef/senior core Carolina Chapter faculty at New England Culinary Institute, • Tracy Morris, a pastry cook at Chevy Montpelier, Vermont. Chase Club, Chevy Chase, Maryland, a At Savannah Technical College, he coaches member of ACF Rhode Island Chapter student teams that compete in ACF- • Jesus Olmedo, a line cook at Somerset sanctioned culinary competitions. In 2012, Club, Boston, a member of ACF he received an ACF President’s Medallion Epicurean Club of Boston and was named Chef Educator of the Year by ACF Chefs of the Low Country. Also • Josh Page, a line cook at Grandfather Golf that year, he was named Technical College & Country Club, Linville, North Carolina, System of Georgia Instructor of the Year. a member of ACF North Carolina Chapter

• Lydia Ross, CC, a student at Central Piedmont Community College, Charlotte, North Carolina, a member of ACF North Carolina Chapter

40 Sizzle Fall 14 international flavors goa, india international flavors

Goa, India By Carolyn M. Fortes, assistant purveyor/food preparation specialist at The Supreme Court of the United States and baking/pastry instructor at The Art Institute of Washington, Arlington, Virginia.

At that time, Indian food was steadily making its mark on the global scene. Today, it is one of the fastest-trending cuisines in the U.S., predominantly represented by North Indian, Mughlai or street food like chaat and pav bhaji. In some cities, depending on the population of Indian settlers, even South Indian food is available.

The few popular Goan dishes featured on restaurant menus were not always authentic or well-represented. How I missed Goan food. historical roots Goa is the smallest state in the Konkan region along the west coast of India. It n March 2002, I came to the U.S. was annexed by the Indian government as a student to obtain an associate in 1961 and liberated from Portuguese I degree in baking and pastry from rule after 450 years. It was part of the The Culinary Institute of America, former union territory of Goa, Daman Hyde Park, New York. At 23, I left India and Diu, and, in May 1987, was declared excited to embark on this journey, but the 25th state of India. It is bound by the not without taking with me beautiful state of Maharashtra to the north and by memories of my family and home. I Karnataka to the east and south. was proud to be an ambassador of my country, its culture, its people and most The Arabian Sea borders a majority importantly, its food. of the western coast, making Goa a

42 Sizzle Fall 14 flourishing tourist destination for international and domestic visitors. Goa is divided into the North and South with Panjim as the capital. The official language of the state is Konkani with Marathi, English and Hindi as accepted alternatives. Portuguese is still the spoken language among many. A native is called a Goenkar, or a Goan in English. Hindus, Muslims and Christians all continue to live in religious harmony.

Goa is only 100 km. long and 55 km. at include coconuts, cashews, mangoes, its widest and is known for its golden sugarcane, pineapples and bananas. beaches, palm trees, equatorial forest, Every morning, local fishermen set sail wildlife sanctuaries, Indo-Portuguese and cast their nets for the catch of the architecture, delectable food and day, which could be kingfish, mackerel, hospitable people. The Portuguese sardines, tuna or catfish. Also common influence is still prevalent today. Since are such crustaceans as lobster, crab, the state is situated in the tropical belt, crayfish and shrimp. Clams, oysters and it is defined by its torrential monsoons mussels are abundant mollusks. from June to September with hot humid days for most of the year. The Goan cuisine is popular for its seafood best time to visit this tropical haven is specialties and meat delicacies made during the short winter from December with pork, beef, chicken and goat. Rice to February. May is the hottest month. and fish curry, known locally asxit codi, Luxury hotels and timeshares are in is a diet staple. North and South Goan abundance, however many tourists cooking styles differ from one another. prefer to rent shacks from the locals There also are differences in spices used or traditional homes in the villages. in food preparation between Goan Similarly, they also prefer to experience Hindus and Goan Catholics. local life by dining and partying at the shacks on the beach rather than at high- Historically, all the baking took place in a handmade hearth oven, which was end restaurants. opposite top: Carolyn Fortes usually located adjacent to the house. Photo by Steve Petteway food history Goans are known for their fresh-baked opposite bottom: Tropical Goa The rich, red fertile soil makes bread, called pao. Pao and poie are Photo by Randolph Correia top: Common spices in Indian cuisine agriculture a primary occupation. Rice the most popular leavened breads, Photo by Kyra Pais is the main crop along with legumes resembling such European lean-bread bottom: An ancestral house in Goa and ragi (finger millet). Cash crops varieties as baguettes and ciabatta. Photo by Randolph Correia www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 international flavors goa, india

my grandmother in 1946, and they continued to live in Mumbai for 31 years before returning to his roots.

My grandfather had a voracious appetite and a love for good food that my grandmother, Nana as we called her, learned to cook. He was a large-hearted man who loved to entertain. Nana was left with no option but to improve her culinary skills. She was a self-taught chef. As easily as she could make simple fish curry rice, she could prepare such complex delicacies as xacuti, vindaloo, caldin, chorizo and sorpotel with the same precision every time. She was Feni is the local spirit introduced by resourceful, and from her I learned the Portuguese monks. It is distilled from the valuable lesson to never waste food. fruit of the cashew or the sap of the palm tree. Goa also has a rich wine culture. The Nana turned excess mango and guava wine is sweet and fortified like port. into jam or fruit cheese (mangad for mango cheese and perad for guava Music and dance rituals are ingrained cheese). When carrots, brinjals and in the culture. Themando, dulpods and tendlis (ivy gourd) were in season, she deknnis are traditional folk songs that are would make pickles and preserves to sung at almost every family occasion. prepare for the monsoon when fish was scarce and expensive. Every Goan is known by the Portuguese nickname Susegad, which means easy- Raw baby mangoes were used to make going. Another Portuguese-influenced top: As a tropical destination, Goa korom (mangoes brined in salt water offers tropical fruit aplenty. legacy is the famous afternoon with green chilies). Some of her famous Photo by Darrel Andrade siesta. To this day, every working fish pickles werepara (dried salt fish bottom: Many make their own bread in establishment indulges in the luxury of pickle), mole (fresh fish, fried and India. Photo by Kyra Pais a long afternoon break. opposite top: Three generations gather: pickled) and balchao made with either Nana, Carolyn Fortes and her son Elijah grandparents’ fresh or dried shrimp. At every birthday, (Nana’s ninth great grandchild). culinary tradition anniversary, feast or holiday, we toasted Photo by Vera Correia with some of Nana’s homemade grape, opposite left: Mae de Deus Church in Both my grandparents were born in ginger, beetroot and gooseberry wine. Saligao, India, built in 1873 Goa during Portuguese rule. In 1943, Photo by Randolph Correia my grandfather migrated to Bombay, Goan food frequently combines sweet, opposite right: Of Indian decent, Carolyn Fortes was married in India. now known as Mumbai, to look for sour and salty flavor profiles. Nana even Photo by Darrel Andrade better job opportunities. He married made her own vinegar. Goan vinegar is

44 Sizzle Fall 14 goan prawn curry By Carolyn Fortes (with alternative ingredients) Yield: 8 servings

ingredients: 1 lb. prawns Salt to taste ¼ t. turmeric powder 1 coconut, scraped (or 1 can unsweetened coconut milk) 8 kashmiri chilies (or 8 New Mexico or 6 guajillo chilies) 2-3 bedki chilies (arbol) 2 T. coriander seeds ¼ t. cumin seeds 6 medium garlic cloves 3-4 peppercorns 1-inch ginger 1 small (lime size ball) tamarind 2 T. cooking oil 1 medium onion, diced small 3-4 Thai peppers, slit Tomatoes for garnish, julienned

method: 1. Wash, clean and pat dry prawns. Apply salt to taste and turmeric to disinfect. 2. In food processor, grind together coconut, kashmiri chilies, bedki chilies, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, 4 garlic cloves, peppercorns and ginger until smooth. (You may need to add at least 1 cup of water to initiate grinding if using fresh or frozen coconut.) 3. Soak tamarind in warm water. Add only the softened pulp to above mix, completing masala curry base. 4. Heat cooking oil in pot on medium heat. Add onions; saute until translucent. 5. Thinly slice remaining 2 garlic cloves; add traditionally made from the sap of the mangoes, jackfruit, guava, chickoo and to onions. palm fruit or sugarcane. bimbli (sour, lime-green colored tangy 6. Once cooked, add masala. Saute 1-2 minutes until begins to bubble. fruit used for tartness and pickling). 7. Add water to a consistency of your liking. When my grandfather retired and Taste; season with salt as needed. There was bamboo in the back and moved back to Goa in 1977, he bought 8. When curry comes to a boil, add shrimp and pineapples, okra and peppers in the slit Thai chilies. (Seed chilies for milder flavor.) a home in Saligao, the same quaint, 9. Add julienned tomatoes if desired for front. We also had a mulberry tree. At peaceful village in which he grew additional tartness and garnish. the back of the house near the well grew 10. Poach and simmer gently for 1-2 up. Like every other village in Goa, minutes. Do not overcook shrimp. vauchi bahji (creeping vines or buffalo 11. Taste; adjust seasonings for balance of it was known for its paddy fields. He sweet, sour and salty. spinach). My grandparents even raised prospered from the profits made from note: the cultivation of sugarcane, which their own Yorkshire pigs and chickens. Prawn curry tastes best when served with steamed white rice. I usually add one was of such fine quality that it was We always visited my grandparents in vegetable to it as well. Cauliflower florets, used to make wine. The sugar was even okra and moringa lend themselves well to summer and sometimes during Diwali these spices and the shrimp. Prawn curry exported to Portugal. makes a great leftover dish. The blend of (a festival of lights). My cousins and I spices and seafood in thick coconut milk would help clean vegetables and peel matures with time. You can eat it with some Papa’s house had a garden laden with fresh pao or crusty baguette for breakfast, vegetation and fruit trees. There were shrimp for lunch. We had house help, but lunch or dinner the next day. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 international flavors goa, india

As I grew older, I spent more time with Nana in the kitchen. Sadly, she never documented any of her recipes. Every ingredient was an approximate weight. The best way to learn was to watch her. She always said, “Never serve food without tasting.”

I would return home from vacation and eagerly try Nana’s recipes. They never tasted quite the same. When I asked, her reply was always, “It is the well water or probably the clay pots,” but I sincerely think it was the love and care that she put into every meal she cooked. She exemplified Goan hospitality with her warmth for family and guests, excellent cooking skills and her eye for details. it was never enough. Nana and my aunts were in the kitchen all morning. There Since moving to the U.S., I have been on a mission to recreate Goan food. Today, were no shortcuts. Nana grated coconuts all I rely on are memories of my time and ground her own masalas on a stone spent in the kitchen with Nana and the grinder. She fried fresh fish daily and distinct taste of her mouthwatering food. cooked unpolished brown rice. She cooked with firewood in red clay pots I have since been able to test and and used handmade ladles from dried substitute with Mexican chilies and local coconut shells. After cooking lunch, she ingredients and have also been able to would work on a snack for tea. Some of simplify some of her tedious methods, her delicious treats were banana fritters shortening the preparation time. (filos), letri (coconut sweet), dos bahji Nana will be 86 this year. She does not (made from lentils and cane sugar, which cook anymore, but continues to share is called jaggery), pinag (made from her recipes to the best of her memory. rice flour and jaggery),alle belle (crepes stuffed with sweetened coconut) and even the laborious and delicious bebinca (a layered cake made with fresh coconut milk, jaggery, eggs and flour).

top: Beach shack in Goa Most evenings we relished Nana’s Photo by Randolph Correia bottom: Chorizo rendition of caldo verde made with Photo by Kyra Pais potatoes and spinach from her backyard.

46 Sizzle Fall 14 Childhood Nutrition Day October 16

Support this day by offering an awareness event in your community. The event can be as simple as offering a cooking demonstration, holding an activity session at a local school or getting a proclamation from the mayor. Please help us make an impact in communities around the country on, or around, October 16. Register your event on www.acfchefs.org/childhoodnutritionday.For tools and activities, visit the Chef & Child website at www.acfchefs.org/ccfprograms.

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Jonathon Sawyer By Ethel Hammer

York, 2002-05; chef de cuisine, Lolita, But much of it stems from his ability Cleveland, 2005-06; executive chef, to seek out and learn from mentors Parea Prime, New York, 2006-07; perfectly suited to his career objectives. chef/partner, Bar Cento, Cleveland, 2007-08; founder, Tavern Vinegar Co., Working with his wife Amelia, whom he Cleveland, 2008-present; chef/owner, has known since adolescence, Sawyer The Greenhouse Tavern, Cleveland, just opened Trentina, where an upscale 2008-present; chef/owner, Noodlecat, tasting menu descends from the peasant Cleveland, 2011-present; chef/owner, Sawyer’s Street Frites, Cleveland, cuisine of Italy’s Trentino-Alto Adige 2012-present; chef/owner, SeeSaw region, home of his wife’s family. Pretzel Shoppe, Cleveland, 2012-present; chef/owner, Trentina, Cleveland, While exploring the Austrian and Italian 2014-present. cuisines of this relatively unknown selected awards and mountainous paradise on a 40-day accomplishments research trip before opening the new Rising Star Chef, Gayot and Restaurant restaurant, Sawyer enjoyed biking through Hospitality magazine, 2007; The the Italian Dolomite Mountains, a Greenhouse Tavern, first certified UNESCO (United Nations Educational, born green restaurant in Ohio, 2008; The Chicago Greenhouse Tavern, one of top 10 best Scientific and Cultural Organization) resides new restaurants, Bon Appétit, 2009; a Best World Heritage Site. A cycling enthusiast Cleveland New Chef, Food & Wine, 2010; nominated at home in Cleveland, too, he cools out Best Chef: Great Lakes, James Beard biking to work before beginning the learned the trade Foundation, 2013, 2014. Dishwasher, The Mad Cactus, Strongsville, exhausting days that lead his wife to Ohio, 1993-95; dishwasher, line cook, jokingly call herself Chef Widow. opening-team member, Houlihan’s, onathon Sawyer laughs easily and Cleveland and Columbus, Ohio, 1995- doesn’t want to rule the culinary Trentina’s tasing menu, Menu Bianco, 97; graduated Pennsylvania Institute of world. He cares about his family features Crusta di Polenta and Carne Culinary Arts, Pittsburgh, 1999. J and environment and keeps growing Salata alla Trentina (crusty polenta career path intriguing and successful restaurant with meat salad), Tyrolean speck and Intern, cook, The Biltmore Hotel, Miami, 1999-2001; line cook, sous concepts. He attributes some of his local vegetables. His Crustaceo Crudo chef, executive chef, Kitchen 22, New success to his great mother and family. celebrates the Italian region’s vast apple

48 Sizzle Fall 14 crop, but uses Ohio apples. And his Edible Candle is made from beef suet, a food of the poor, but with 24k gold flecks, mixing references to rich, poor Paleolithic caveman/cavewoman feast and the bounty of vulnerable bees. that must be seen to be believed. Sawyer serves foie gras steamed clams And don’t underestimate the power at The Greenhouse Tavern, a dish he of his two stadium-food concepts, invented while working for Charlie Sawyer’s Street Frites and SeeSaw Palmer at Kitchen 22. The crispy Pretzels, the later housed at the home Brussels sprouts served at his noodle of the Cleveland Cavaliers. The return concept Noodlecat evoke a signature of LeBron James to Cleveland, along dish of local pal Michael Symon, with with the rim-ringing energy of Sawyer’s whom he also shares a love of tattoos. multiple, inventive food concepts, help Still, the father of Noodlecat is hardly a contribute to a Rust Belt revival in the copycat, putting direct experience under city that counts Paul Newman, Jesse his “culinary microscope” with on-site Owens, Jerry Siege—co-creator of research in Tokyo before he opened Superman—plus canned meatball king Noodlecat; in Rome for his early Bar Hector Boiardi (Chef Boyardee) among Cento; in the south of France before past and present luminaries. opening The Greenhouse Tavern; and So let’s see how Sawyer helps foster trips to Trentino. Cleveland’s economic and environmental Meanwhile, dishes that look to have renewal with high hospitableness, rib- been designed by Bacchus, the god sticking concepts and Ohio’s first green of wine and revelry, (or a wild wolf) restaurant … adding a pomme frite here, top: Strangolapreti alla Trentina (pasta dumpling) stuffed with express his uniquely jubilant style, and a pretzel there, a carrot frite here and formaggio che cola from Trentina epitomized by the Fred Flintstone a pickle bun there. Plus, who else dares bottom: Pasta alla Chitarra with Ohio Beef Short Rib with bourguignon-style offer a barbecue rhubarb salad or names a farm egg on the menu at Trentina braised vegetables and herb salad—a child after a book? Photos courtesy of Jonathon Sawyer. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 49 the interview jonathon sawyer

my father’s side. My mother’s mother had 11 kids and 35 grandchildren, and with a little food, she always made sure a ton of people were fed and happy. That’s also true of me.

I also wrestled, which, just like cooking, teaches responsibility and consequences. When a match is done, there in no one to blame. You take all the joys of winning and all the agonies of defeat upon yourself.

I’m definitely nerdy—really good at math and went to the University of Dayton to be an engineer. As a boy, I loved doing art as a creative outlet. I still use pencils for everything and love putting pencil to paper when I draw up a menu.

talk about your early life and as a member of Slow Food and influences. other groups, what sparked your JS: Growing up, I was high energy, environmental consciousness? definitely a comedian and truthful to JS: Having kids, you want to leave the a fault. When I lit tennis balls on fire world a little better than the way it was and threw them down the street and left to you. At our restaurants, we have confessed to my mother, I got grounded. a simple environmental strategy: we When I told the truth after smearing mud buy ingredients with the lowest carbon all over a girl’s clubhouse who put up footprints and that are raised with the a sign saying, “No Boys Allowed,” my most sustainable and humane practices. mother gave me a spoon spanking. I still I am not going to buy beef from Japan don’t have the ability to lie very well, but or pork from Iowa, but work with local do a lot better job tempering my honesty farmers. We consider it the best use of as a grown-up. Recently, I was asked how our time not to preach but to lead by best to fix the school food system and example. We are not the best restaurant said, “I choose to focus my energy where in sustainability, but we are not the I can have an impact.” I know about worst. We use paints with low volatile school systems from my mother who organic compounds (VOCs) and never taught first grade. I can thank my mom use straws. We don’t use Styrofoam and for everything. She enrolled me at the never serve tuna. We follow the Monterey Cleveland Museum of Art and encouraged Bay sustainability practices concerning me to be an art student and also to join an the sea and always have. I find fracking orchestra where I played standing bass. terrifying, but I don’t soapbox. Still they are not going to frack on our territory or in My mother had to feed three boys and our kids’ schoolyard. taught me about homespun gardening. Having fresh rhubarb and pumpkin for what is your best advice to pies taught me a love of simplicity. I can culinary students? still remember the stuffed cabbage of my JS: You don’t learn anything from moving Hungarian great grandmother Szegedi on around a lot and working at multiple

50 Sizzle Fall 14 restaurants. You need to learn technique not recipes, which is why I always stayed someplace for several years. My advice is to figure out who your culinary hero is, decide where you want your career to go, then learn and emulate how that person got there. If your hero worked for 10 months in Spain, you probably need to go there too. And remember there is no top of the mountain. There is always someone who does it better.

As for my heroes, I always loved Jamie Oliver, because he knows how to balance home life, family and social responsibility. He taught me that you don’t have to own a million restaurants. And I also love Mario Batali with whom I have a friendship and who knows that you have to offer partnerships and equity learn in terms of our own backyard. We tell us about starting shares to all chefs and managers. He use cuts of meat that are not so popular, Trentina using Kickstarter is a tireless worker, but he knows the like beef tendons, pig heads, pig tail, short My wife and I opened it together because importance of giving his chefs credit for ribs and the whole oxtail. We can get our business was getting out of control, and their recipes, understanding that they them at great prices, then put them under we decided that we didn’t need partners. need to have their own cookbooks under our culinary microscope. Using Kickstarter, we raised double the money we wanted from people from all their own names. you seem quite literary. why did over the country. How did we do it? We’re pretty savvy with media and have 27,000 You don’t have to take home the most you name your son Catcher after Instagram followers. And between us and money. People who work for you need to J.D. Salinger’s “The Catcher in the the restaurant, 80,000 people read our stuff. get tons of benefits too. It is okay not to Rye?” and why do you value writer be the smartest person in the room, and Kurt Vonnegut as much as some you don’t need to be the wealthiest. of your culinary heroes? JS: “The Catcher in the Rye” was a life- what is your attitude towards changing experience. I don’t read very staying up with the trends? fast, but when I got that book, I read it JS: I love working, but I don’t take the nonstop, from when the sun rose to when easy road. We want to be the first one the moon set until I was done. It’s not on a trend and the first one off it. Pork what’s on the page but what the page belly is not on our menu, because it is makes you feel. too obvious. We don’t use tuna, not only because bluefin tuna might go extinct I like Vonnegut’s apocalyptic, end-of- in our lifetime, but because tuna is too the-world, end-of-society orientation, obvious and too easy. It’s ridiculous to too. He just writes in such a cutting way. opposite top: The Greenhouse sear raw tuna, put it on your menu and And as everyone needs a release, it’s Tavern main floor consider yourself a restaurant. nice to be able to read something that is opposite bottom: Foie gras not about food. steamed clams served at The We are not interested in rearranging Greenhouse Tavern second-hand experiences from other Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and cartoonist based in Chicago. above: Primi Assaggio from Trentina cities, but learn first-hand from people who till the soil. We reinterpret what we www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 51 the quiz fall 2014 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

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1. What is one of the best-selling, award- 6. Which of the following statements about 11. What can you serve with confit to offset winning soups at Sunset Grille in St. sweet and spicy foods is not true? some of the saltiness? Augustine Beach, Florida, that apprentice a. Sweet-plus-heat dishes are almost absent a. Citric acid Paul Burch has a hand in? from casual-dining restaurants b. Vinegar a. Chorizo and rice soup b. Sweet and spicy foods both release c. Water b. Tortilla soup endorphins in the body d. Something sweet c. New England clam chowder c. A balance of vinegar or acid can temper d. Mango and lime shrimp soup the sweet and heat 12. The cultural influence of what European d. Americans often associate sweet plus heat country is still prevalent in the cuisine of 2. Ingredients common to most cassoulets are with Asian cooking Goa, India? white beans, any of a number of meats and a. Spain what else? 7. What is a cook’s first inclination when using b. Portugal a. Corn spicy heat in a dish? c. France b. Bread crumbs a. Rely only on chilies for spice d. Belgium c. Soy paste b. Avoid offending someone’s palate by not d. Broccolini making it very hot 13. Historically, where did all baking in Goa c. Overkill the heat take place? 3. What was the main nontraditional preparation d. Forget to taste it for balance a. In a tandoori oven in Chef Alain De Coster’s modern version of b. Over open coals the classic Cassoulet Toulousain? 8. Which avenue below is not a way to enter the c. In a fire pit a. Meat cooked sous vide style job market to be a sports-team chef? d. In a handmade hearth oven b. The use of molecular gastronomy a. Go through a contract management company spherification b. Work for a catering company that handles 14. Jonathon Sawyer’s restaurants have helped to c. Pickling ingredients sports teams revitalize what city? d. Deconstructing the dish c. Apply directly with the team a. Detroit d. Hire a lawyer b. St. Louis 4. Which of the following should you not do if c. Cleveland you are trying to land a stage (stahje)? 9. Which of the following qualities is not that d. Memphis a. Knock on the restaurant back door mid- important for sports-team chefs? afternoon a. Knowledgeable about nutrition 15. According to Jonathon Sawyer, you don’t b. Make an introductory phone call b. Skilled in bookkeeping learn anything from what? c. Show up in your chef whites c. Flexible and adaptable a. Moving around a lot d. Bring your own knives d. Experienced in the kitchen b. Watching “Top Chef” c. Eating out frequently 5. If accepted to stage, when should you show up? 10. Originally, confit was a process toward what end? d. Reading books a. 30 minutes early (Hint, the French word for confit means this.) b. Fashionably late a. Preserving c. Exactly on time b. Storage d. 5 minutes early c. Flavoring d. Masking “off” flavors Last Bite denver last bite Denver Wondering where to eat in Denver? Who better to ask than some of the city’s most respected chefs. Check out their dining suggestions. small plates awesome shareable transformed Acorn french dip vietnamese shipping 3350 Brighton Blvd. Hillstone New Saigon (720) 542-3721 containers (formerly Houston’s) 630 South Federal Blvd. Work & Class denveracorn.com 303 Josephine St. (303) 936 4954 Mon.-Sat: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. 2500 Larimer St. (303) 333-4688 newsaigon.com (303) 292-0700 Sun.: 5:30-10 p.m. hillstone.com Tues.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. workandclassdenver.com Dinner shared plates: $5-$19 Mon.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Appetizers: $3.50-$17.95 Tues.-Thurs., Sun.: 4-10 p.m. Dinner large plates: $27-$87 Appetizers: $7-$15 Salads: $10.95-$19.95 Fri.-Sat.: 4-11 p.m. Salads: $10-$23 Rice wrap combos: I love the small plates, Appetizers: $8-$14 House specialties: $18-$36 $14.95-$39.95 which provides an Half-pound meat: opportunity to try A lot of large-format $10.75-$13.75 several different types Though it has an options make it great Dessert: $3-$7 of food. The fare is intimate atmosphere, for business meetings creative in an up-and- there’s high energy or going out with It’s the kind of place coming part of town with its nightly live chefs. The Tu Quy is you can taste the that was once pretty jazz. The food quality a classic standby. It’s soul that goes into much abandoned is excellent, making a rice wrap platter it. The interior is so warehouses. This one the higher price with grilled beef, well-designed, you will be a star. point totally worth it. My favorite is the pork, shrimp and fried don’t feel you’re –Christopher DeJohn, Prime Rib French Dip shrimp paste that’s sitting inside shipping CEC, AAC, executive best shared. It’s an containers that used chef, Centerplate Sports Sandwich. interactive, choose- to carry goods across Authority Field @ Mile High –Rich Byers, executive your-own-adventure oceans. My favorite chef, The Corner Office dishes are the blue Restaurant + Martini Bar kind of deal. –Theo Adley, executive chef, corn empanadas and The Squeaky Bean cilantro beans and rice. –Kelly Whitaker, chef/ owner, Cart-Driver

P h n o to to ol by Daniel H

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