*** Sunday 15 March 2020 BEST OF BRITAIN From Hever Castle to SPOT THE Lindisfarne, 10 great BIG CAT historic breaks page 25 Michelle Jana SLOW DOWN Chan gets a Why ‘Race rare sighting Across the of the snow World’ is getting leopard it all wrong page 26 page 25 TravelMAKE THE WORLD YOUR OWN

New edge on the Riviera

very day is like a temperature never falls below 15C sheer drama of the Amalfi Coast, but Exciting openings holiday living (59F),” says Petros Parthenis, the this 35-mile coastline is back in the here,” says Cassie brawny, blue-eyed founder of spotlight. Stretching from Anderson, WeSwim, an open-water swimming metropolitan Paleo Faliro to Cape and a fresh energy squinting into the community that meets here every , a craggy headland sunshine. You can week, whatever the weather. crowned by the magnificent temple are revitalising the see why: it’s Traditionally, winter swimming of Poseidon, the Riviera is where ‘E February and clubs in Athens have been strictly for Athenians come to escape the Greek capital’s Cassie is wearing nothing but a bikini geriatrics, but this lot range from clamour and concrete of the inner and a smile. She is one of about 30 rock-hard triathletes to middle-aged city. It’s where Greek shipping locals gathered for their Sunday mums. There are plenty of expats too, magnates reside in waterfront sunshine coast. morning swim on beach, like Cassie, an Australian marketing compounds, their yachts moored a sweep of golden sand in the heart of consultant now based in Athens, and nearby. Since the Four Seasons Rachel Howard gets the Athenian Riviera. Water-skiers are her friend Lynn, a yoga teacher who unveiled its revival of the Astir already cutting a dash across the bay ditched a financial career in San Palace resort in spring 2019, a rush back into the water and solo swimmers are wading Francisco to move to Athens on a of flush Arabs, Russians, and nonchalantly into the shallow water. whim. “My Airbnb guests ask me how Americans have got in on the act. Along the beach, dozens of ageing long it takes to get to Santorini. I tell Luxury lifestyle publisher Assouline hunks in tiny trunks are engaged in a them there are better beaches less even has a coffee-table book,Athens frenzied racquetball tournament, than an hour from the Acropolis. Riviera, coming out in June. while their wives sunbathe nearby. People are amazed to discover this The book’s French author, “Vouliagmeni has its own whole coastal scene here.” Stephanie Artarit, once lived on the microclimate. The sea doesn’t really The may not have soaking up the rays

get cold until March, but the water ATHENS HOTEL ASTIR CHATZIKONSTANTIS; MANOS the cachet of the Côte d’Azur or the Swimmers near Astir Palace, main; and dining at Vouliagmeni beach, above Continued on Page 22  22 *** Sunday 15 March 2020 The Sunday Telegraph

 Continued from Page 21

“bourgeois” Côte d’Azur. “The Athens Riviera has a wilder, more contemporary spirit. It is a lot younger and more authentic. It probably resembles what the French Riviera was in the Sixties, when Athens people gravitated towards St Tropez GREECE for its parties and nightlife.” At that time, the Athens Riviera was just on the brink of discovery. Vouliagmeni beach Konstantinos Karamanlis, the prime Four Seasons minister, recognised the area’s Astir Palace potential as a tourism destination: a string of seaside resorts within 20 miles striking distance of one of the world’s great cultural capitals. Eero Saarinen’s new terminal at Hellinikon airport (so close to the an ancient temple are surrounded by waterfront that it seemed the plane striped sunbeds and big-brand might land in the sea) also promised boutiques. Below the shipowners’ to make this unspoilt coastline more barb-wired bunkers on the Kavouri accessible to international travellers. headland are hidden coves where you Karamanlis greenlit the can swim naked. construction of the Astir Palace on Saturday mornings can be spent the lush Lemos peninsula in snacking on dried figs, walnuts and Vouliagmeni. It became the summer cold-pressed juice at ’s organic playground of playboys and farmer’s market or zipping off to a presidents. The Athenian elite nearby island on a speedboat. You would reserve the cabanas sprinkled could toast the epic sunset at one of among the pine groves for the entire ’s bling beach bars, or summer. King Saud booked a whole commune with Lord Byron on floor for his harem. To dodge the “Sunium’s marbled steep”, where Mary paparazzi, Brigitte Bardot sent a Katrantzou staged her SS 2020 fashion head-scarfed lookalike to the beach. show. At Island bar-restaurant, trust “Everyone who stayed there was fund teenagers dance until dawn, just an internationally renowned figure. as fishermen are untangling their nets Onassis was probably the poorest of in nearby . You can buy the the lot,” recalls Grigoris day’s catch straight from their Kasidokostas, a dashing local who colourful wooden boats. ran Astir’s waterskiing school. In the “Ah good, you got the red mullet. I summer of 1969, Kasidokostas fell in caught those this morning,” says love with one of his students. Andonis, bounding over to our table as Marianna happened to be the we enjoy lunch at Latini, a first-rate teenage daughter of Yiannis Latsis, restaurant overlooking Varkiza one of Greece’s richest tycoons. As harbour. Andonis has been fishing in the (probably apocryphal) story these waters since he was 12. When I goes, Latsis had a meeting with his ask him how the Athenian Riviera has advisers who said: “We have two changed over the years, Andonis choices – either we kill him or make scoffs: “Athenian graviera, more like!” him mayor.” (Graviera is a Greek cheese). Kasidokostas served as mayor of To locals, these coastal communities Vouliagmeni for over 25 years. “His are known as “Nou-Pou”, short for first priority was to stop excessive notia proastia, or southern suburbs – a construction. That’s why jumble of suburban sprawl, flashy Vouliagmeni has no bouzoukia marinas and organised beaches that [nightclubs], less buildings, more give way to wide-open landscapes, green spaces,” says Theo sleepy seaside towns, and quiet bays. Agiostratitis, the managing director This low-key, haphazard of the Margi Hotel, a laid-back development is set to change, with favourite of the jet-set set since several regeneration projects in the 1960. The hotel was founded by pipeline: the $240 million Theo’s grandfather, who discovered (£191 million) redevelopment of Faliro

the area on a field trip as a medical bay to a masterplan by Renzo Piano; a CHATZIKONSTANTIS MANOS TIMES/EYEVINE; YORK NEW MARIA MAVROPOULOU/THE KENSEET; MERAKOS; PERIKKES student in the Forties. Back then, major upgrade of , the biggest people would brave the dirt road to marina in the Balkans; a new 400-key take the healing waters of hotel in Glyfada; and a radical ‘There are Vouliagmeni lake, which is still a makeover of Voula beach. But the more juice popular year-round swimming hole. most drastic changes will happen at “It used to be a traditional the former Hellinikon airport, one of bars, day municipal spa, with only a circle of many state assets the Greek old ladies talking about their government had to sell off as a spas and operations and their cooking,” says condition of its international bail-out vegan British author Sofka Zinovieff, who to private investors since 2010. A has lived nearby with her Greek high-rise casino, hotels, condos, cafés, husband, Vassilis Papadimitriou, for shopping malls, sports facilities, and a almost 20 years – an experience waterfront park will emerge from which chronicled in her beguiling memoir, what is currently a wasteland roughly really suits Eurydice Street: A Place in Athens. the size of Monaco. Renderings “Now it’s much swankier, but the suggest the result will look more like the DNA of water is still quite murky. Locals say the love child of Las Vegas and Dubai. there are monsters lurking in the “Five years from now, this place the place’ underwater caverns.” might look really different and it will This mix of the mythical and be hard to remember how it was fashionable is what makes this before,” says Kalia Konstantinidis, a coastline so appealing. On exclusive glamorous hotelier who has spent her Astir Beach, the stunted columns of whole life on the Athens Riviera.

While these affluent seaside suburbs majestic were cushioned from the worst of THE CORONAVIRUS AND TRAVEL The Temple of Greece’s crisis, lifestyles have already Poseidon, changed. “Ten years ago, the coastal With increases adversely mistake, once cruise schedules, below; Astir highway was full of huge nightclubs in cases of affected. the worst of the companies but they are Palace Hotel, that would come and go every coronavirus However, with crisis is over, and during recent doing so in the above right season,” says Kalia. “Now there are being reported many travel travel advice weeks. expectation that more juice bars, day spas and vegan daily throughout companies changes, However, we services will be cafés, which really suits the DNA of the world, and offering new holidaymakers know our restored when the place.” ever-changing flexibility when will return. readers often the time is right. In early springtime, there’s more of Foreign & it comes to Equally, like to book Updates on the a wellness scene than a party vibe. The Commonwealth booking, cruising has long cruises well in progress of the beaches and boardwalks are full of Office advice for rebooking and been hugely advance. That is coronavirus as it locals working out or just hanging out. tourists, today cancellation, popular with our still an option, relates to travel, When the south winds roll in, surfers we’re taking the now’s the time readers. The provided you are vital, of in wetsuits dash across the coastal opportunity to to give some announcement look beyond the course, and more highway with their surfboards and you look beyond the consideration to on Thursday by likely timeline of can be found at could almost be in Miami Beach. doom and gloom future holidays. the Prime the outbreak. telegraph.co.uk/ “Like snails, we come out of our and offer some One of the Minister that Cruise operators coronavirus. shells as soon as the sun appears,” inspiration to worst-affected people over the are also offering However, during Kalia smiles. “You see people travellers. destinations is age of 70 with increased the coming swimming, jogging or strolling along All experts Italy, currently serious medical flexibility to weeks, we will the seaside in their flip-flops, drinking agree that we on lockdown, conditions their terms and also be pursuing coffee by the sea for hours, and it feels will be coping but a perennial should avoid conditions, so our ongoing like a never-ending summer.” with the effects favourite among taking cruises you will have goal of providing But when the temperature rises, of coronavirus those who take was just the additional peace inspiration and Athenians still know how to party. for some time, part in our latest in a serious of mind. entertainment Summer starts when Island, a club and that our annual of difficult Equally, for those whose dangling on the rocky shore near journeys around Telegraph Travel headlines being airlines may be wanderlust Varkiza, opens in May – and they’ll be the world will be survey. Make no endured by trimming their will never dim. dancing from sunset to sunrise. The Sunday Telegraph Sunday 15 March 2020 *** 23

paradise found Skipper’s bar, main; and Vouliagmeni Limni, below

WHERE TO EAT Glamorous waterfront restaurants abound, but you pay a premium for those sea views. Ithaki (ithakirestaurantbar.gr), a Med-Asian seafood restaurant overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay, is an DO IT LIKE A LOCAL enduring classic where high rollers go to impress foreigners or first dates. Pick out a whole fish at Take a dip in go foraging on to the southern suburbs) Blue Fish (facebook.com/ Vouliagmeni lake faskomilia are gridlocked on bluefishvouliagmeni/), and Year-round, Athenians A footpath above Lake summer weekends. The it will be carved into sushi, take to the briny green Vouliagmeni leads into tram that trundles along ceviche, tataki and tartare, waters of this thermal lake Faskomilia, a little-known the seaside strip from and served quayside. (limnivouliagmenis.gr/en), nature reserve that covers Faliro to Voula is a cheap At Latini (latini.gr), the which is said to heal all the entire peninsula alternative to a taxi and fish comes straight from manner of ailments. You between Vouliagmeni and you are able to hop off the boats moored below might catch fearless cliff Varkiza. You’ll spot more wherever you fancy. For the terrace. Order the divers hurtling off the hawks and partridges a supercharged “port salad”, baby shrimp, room with a view surrounding ridges or than joggers and dog- sightseeing experience, and palest pink The opulent Villa Smaragda, one of the White Key Villas on the outer reaches of the Rivera divers emerging from the walkers as you wander charter a speedboat taramasalata. underwater tunnels – so along the trails, with sea (ribvoyages.gr) or Tables-in-the-sand before midnight. At Krabo less glossy and more several luminous coves deep nobody knows where views on all sides; though catamaran tavernas are a rarity along (krabo.gr), hidden on a low-key – a good option between Vouliagmeni and they end. you might find locals (athensrivierayachting. the Athens Riviera; at rocky bay in Kavouri, for families. Tanned Varkiza. At Skipper’s foraging for bitter radikia com). Ask your skipper to Aperanto Galazio suave waiters deliver crab youths divebomb off the (skippersbar.gr), a “yacht & Team up wiTh greens, wild sage or take you snorkelling for (facebook.com/aperanto. burgers and Alitalias wooden decks roll bar” on Pier 1 of Alimos winTer swimmers camomile flowers. sea urchins on Fleves, for galazio.varkiza/) on lively (Greek vermouth and surrounding Lefteris, a marina, the menu and WeSwim (facebook.com/ lunch at Perdika on the Varkiza beach, the food tonic) to your lounger and beach shack that’s perfect music are as retro as the Weswimgreece/) is a BeaT The Traffic – and Leoforos island of Aegina, or a doesn’t quite live up to the lazy afternoons easily slide for a rum and coke as the Eighties decor. welcoming community of Take a BoaT Vouliagmenis (the rather sunset spin around the setting; but that doesn’t into late nights. Zen Beach moon rises. To find it, open-water swimmers of Both Poseidonos Avenue ugly highway that temple of Poseidon at stop gaggles of Greeks (zen-beach.gr/), just clamber down the rocks at WHERE TO STAY all ages and abilities. From (the scenic coastal road) connects central Athens Sounion. settling in for round after around the headland, is Limanakia A, one of October to May, they meet round of chilled beer and The Four Seasons Astir every Sunday at noon at grilled octopus. Palace (fourseasons.com/ Akti Vouliagmenis for a There’s no view at athens; sea-view doubles brisk swim across the bay, Louizidis (2 Ermou, from €300/£266) has left followed by a potluck Vouliagmeni), but this the other resorts along the picnic. From June to family-run taverna has Athens Riviera in the September, they gather on perfected classic comfort shade. From the glitzy Wednesdays at 6pm. food like moussaka and restaurants to the white fish soup since 1961. marble spa, it’s a bubble of learn To windsurf privilege that’s hard to or sup WHERE TO PLAY resist. Set back from the Part-time model and waterfront, The Margi national windsurfing When it comes to beach (themargi.gr; double champion Pavlos clubs on the Athens rooms from €180) is more Cheiladakis can coax Riveria, for big spenders, intimate. Peaceful rooms anyone to master a there are only two places are enveloped by pine surfboard or stand-up to park your Porsche: trees or overlook the paddleboard. You’ll find Astir Beach (astir.gr/ seductive poolside him shaking his curls and beach), all slinky restaurant, Malabar; many flashing his grin at resortwear and loud ingredients come from the Yasurfaki (yasurfaki.gr), beats, and Island hotel’s organic farm. For his windsurfing and (islandclubrestaurant.gr), residences on the outer watersports centre on where the waiters are as reaches of the Riviera, lively Varkiza beach, from finer-than-fine dining entitled as the clientele check out White Key Villas May to October. Med-Asian restaurant Ithaki, above; Aperanto Galazio on Varkiza beach, right and the party doesn’t start (whitekeyvillas.com).