Epic Adventures Await in City of the Aztecs
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A32 | TRAVEL nsnews.com north shore news FRIDAY, JUNE 10, 2016 MEXICO : DISTRITO FEDERAL ONE MASSIVE CULTURAL FEAST Epic adventures await in city of the Aztecs JANICE AND Mexico’s best-loved presi- GEOrge MUCALOV dent. We then look for the Contributing Writers brilliantly coloured mural by Diego Rivera, “The Epic of New moms push strollers the Mexican People in their along a leafy sidewalk. struggle for Freedom and Spandex-clad young Independence.” Rivera took women jog on the years to paint this master- crunchy park path nearby piece, so massive it winds as dusk settles. Restaurant around the palace’s central tables spill out on the staircase. sidewalk, some couples History is all well and chatting up a storm while good. But the day is over others languidly scroll and we’re ready now for a down their smartphones. modern take on Italian cuisine A dog walker untangles at Il Becco restaurant. Part the leashes of his furry of the high-end Becco group charges – we can’t help of restaurants in Mexico, Il but pet one tail-wagging Becco tickles our tastebuds little rascal. Occasionally, with artichoke-and-pistachio a bicyclist pedals by. risotto and linguine with We could be out on a lobster. Bonus: the bill is less balmy summer evening in than some Italian restaurants Vancouver – except we’re back in Vancouver. strolling the Condesa neigh- The next day, we hit bourhood of Mexico City. another museum. In Mexico Say what? City, there are museums to Forget what you think you suit every intellectual fancy, know of Mexico City. Because from shoe to cartoon muse- it’s likely to surprise you. ums – even a pen museum. This mega-city (popula- We’ve picked the National tion over 21 million) is so vast Museum of Art, as it’s said to that, peering down from the house the most impressive plane, we can’t make out its collection of Mexican art in edges. But below we find a the country. We’re happy with people-friendly, vibrant, buzz- our choice, as we enjoy rural ing hive of a place – a delight landscapes, portraits and to explore on foot, with loads Diego Rivera mural in the National Palace, located on Mexico City’s main square, the Plaza de la Constitución (El Zócalo). other artworks by Mexican of historical treasures and PHOTOS SUPPLIED JANICE AND GEORGE MUCALOV painters little-known to for- an explosion of cutting-edge eign visitors. artistic, culinary and cultural centred their empire around Zócalo. A gathering place for Unfortunately we don’t venues. present-day Mexico City; the political demonstrations in have time for two new art It’s got lots of shady, green classical Mayan civilization years past, the city’s main museums we want to see – parks and more museums mostly flourished in Mexico’s square is occupied chock- the Museo Soumaya (which than any other city in the Yucatan peninsula, centuries a-bloc by white tents, some showcases billionaire Carlos world (over 150, apparently). earlier. with banners hand-painted Slim’s extensive $700 million It’s quite safe – apart from a Next day, a sunny Sunday with political slogans. But it’s art collection of Rodin sculp- few (easily avoided) dodgier morning, we join the locals peaceful today. Here again, tures and paintings by Van districts, you don’t need to thronging the Paseo de la we notice striking contrasts. Gogh, Matisse and Monet) worry about a trip to Mexico Reforma, the City’s grand- The baroque Metropolitan and the Museo Jumex (dis- City any more than about a est boulevard. On Sundays, Cathedral majestically pre- playing the largest collection visit to New York or Miami. the Paseo is closed to all car sides over the square, while of contemporary art in Latin And its air is clean most of traffic until mid-afternoon – a brand-new, shiny eco-taxis are America). the time – air pollution has Mexican tradition that makes lined up nearby. We end our too-short dropped significantly since it a people-magnet. And what By this time, our stom- Mexico City visit with one last the city’s dirty days in the a spectacle! achs are rumbling. We stroll and dinner at a trendy 1990s (on our visit, the blue Families pull their kidlets stumble upon Café Tacuba spot in Condesa. We’re a bit skies are smog-free). down the street in wheeled Zócalo Palace looks over the main square in central Mexico City with its stained-glass win- sad – we only managed to Its name also holds a small wagons, roller-skaters glide by – prior to the colonial period it was the main ceremonial centre dows. Inside, a treat awaits. briefly trundle through the surprise – it only officially and teens in sporty clothing in the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. It’s an elegant, traditional artsy Roma neighbourhood, changed to “Mexico City” this ride bicycles, raring to go Mexican restaurant, its female never made it to the posh January, from “DF” (Distrito at the lights. Look, there’s a can kind of see that the very of Mexico’s famous artists. wait-staff wearing starched Polanco district, and there’s Federal), the moniker com- group practising yoga. Oh, modern, golden “El Caballito” But we’re unable to see the white caps and aprons. The still the “Blue House” of monly used by the locals. and how fun! A crowd of fit- sculpture looks like a stylized theatre’s stained-glass curtain spicy hot chocolate and Frida Kahlo to see. Next time, We start exploring our first ness buffs is zumba-dancing horse. made by New York jeweller, Mexican chicken sandwich perhaps… afternoon. Luckily, the world- to throbbing music. Red- Leaving the Paseo, we walk Tiffany, or its crystal ceiling are delicious! Only later do renowned National Museum nosed clowns are also out through Alameda Park. This dome. For that, we’d have to we discover it’s a bit of an If you go: of Anthropology, grand-daddy entertaining wee ones. is the city’s oldest park, an watch one of the renowned, institution – there’s even a In the five-star category, of Mexico City’s museums, is We notice many eco- expansive green space, criss- twice-weekly Ballet Folklorico local band calling itself “Café the Four Seasons Hotel close by in lovely Chapultepec friendly bicycle stands and crossed by lots of well-loved performances (and drat, we’re Tacuba.” Mexico, D.F. has just been Park. It’s easy to reach on rental shacks with lineups walking paths and patrolled not here then). Revived, we tackle the completely renovated and foot, so we don’t need to sit in in front for modestly priced by policemen on horseback. Then a quick peek into National Palace next. A bur- boasts a small outdoor pool. the clogged city traffic. rental bikes. Bicycling as a It’s sprinkled with shady pop- another jaw-dropping build- gundy-canopied facade faces It’s conveniently located a ten- And it doesn’t disap- way of getting around is a lar trees, and children splash ing. Really, a post office? Yep, the main square. But where’s minute walk from the National point – it wonderfully growing, popular phenom- about in water fountains. In it’s the Postal Palace. Marble the entrance? A friendly guard Museum of Anthropology. displays Mexico’s history enon, and some bike lanes February and March, when floors, grand stairway flanked forgives our mangled Spanish Visit fourseasons.com/mexico. from pre-Columbian times have sprung up in the city too. the Jacaranda trees and laven- by bronze railings, gilded and points us around the The Red Tree House is a to the Spanish conquest. The rich assortment of der flowers bloom, the park is lamps – imagine mailing a corner, where we line up with lovely, top-rated B&B in the Eye-popping exhibits include public art along the Paseo a palette of purple. letter here! Under its soar- the many locals for a visit. old-world Condesa neighbor- the gigantic 25-ton Aztec vies for our attention as We finally reach the mag- ing ceiling of leaded glass, it In its garden courtyards, hood. Its free evening wine “sun” stone from the 15th well. The golden Angel of nificent Palace of Fine Arts, its looks like a lacy confection of we’re attracted by signs point- hour is a hit with the interna- century and fearsome Olmec Independence atop its tall white marble dazzling in the bronze and gold and light. ing to the living quarters and tional mix of guests (as are its stone heads. We also come to column dominates one grand sunshine. Inside, we admire In the city’s historical official rooms once occupied rates, which start at $95 USD). understand that the Aztecs traffic circle. And, yes, we huge murals painted by some centre, we aim for the bustling by Benito Juarez, perhaps Visit redtreehouse.com..