FASHION DESIGNING (865)

Aims: 1. To provide knowledge of various fashion trends 3. To enable the students to develop interest in and textiles. research for various projects and develop appropriate skills in designing dresses. 2. To inculcate the interest and to develop a sense of appreciation and creative expression in selection of 4. To enable students to acquire basic knowledge ready-made clothes. about textiles necessary to select better fabrics for Apparel and designing clothes.

CLASS XI There will be two papers in the subject: (v) Careers in Fashion Paper I: Theory: 3 hours …… 70 marks Various career options: Fashion Designer, Merchandiser, Buying Agent, Production in Paper II: Practical Work: …… 30 marks charge, Teacher, Pattern Maker, Sample maker, Stylist, Buyer for multi designer stores, PAPER I – THEORY (70 Marks) Exporter, Fashion Journalism. Question 1 is compulsory. Candidates will be required (vi) Fashion Terminology to answer four questions out of seven questions. Corset, Jodhpurs, , Grain Line, Camouflage, Silhouette, Cummerbund, 1. Introduction to Fashion Gusset, Flounce, Trend, Style, Bias, Cluster, (i) Definitions of Fashion Rouching, Shirring, Gathers, Pleats, Tucks. Definition and understanding of the terms. Fashion can be defined as the idea or style in a field like fashion designing, currently 2. Design Details accepted by a given segment of the population. (i) Types of designs (ii) Classification of Fashion  Natural The following topics are to be covered briefly:  Abstract Haute Couture, High Fashion/Street, Knock  Geometrical off, Line Production, Prêt-o Porter, Made to  Decorative/ Ornamental Measure (Tailored), Classics, Fads. (ii) Elements of Design (iii)Fashion Cycle  Line Self- explanatory  Shape/Form (iv) Fashion and current trends  Space Fashion and current trends to be taught,  Colour highlighting the fact that the fashion and  Texture trends keep changing.  Pattern

222 (iii) Principles of Design  Blood  Proportion  Chocolate  Balance  Coffee/Tea  Rhythm  Grease  Emphasis  Nail Polish  Harmony (ii) Stain Removal Methods  Dip Method 3. Wardrobe Planning  Sponge Method (i) Different figure types  Steam Method An understanding of: (iii) Storage and Maintenance of Clothes  Ideal Figure Type  Importance and Function of Closet  Triangular Figure Type Organization;  Inverted Triangular Figure Type  Storage of special clothes: Storage of  Rectangular Figure Type Velvet, Brocade, Tissue, Suede, Organza;  Hourglass Figure Type Storing of Knits, Lingerie, Underwear, Socks and Hosiery, Gloves, Belts, Shoes,  Diamond-shaped Figure Type Handbags, Hats, Scarves, Jewellery.  Tubular Figure Type  Maintenance: General tips on how to take  Rounded Figure Type care of clothes of all types and materials. (ii) Buying Fabrics (iv) Principles of Closet Organization  Shopping for fabrics  Visibility,  Special buying considerations  Reachability  Underlining fabrics -- types and selection  Grouping by Category (iii) as a powerful resource PAPER II - PRACTICAL WORK (30 Marks)  Life cycle clothing needs Candidates will be expected to complete the practical  Professional Image Types - typical fields work listed below and maintain a Journal for the and recommended dress for each. same. 4. Designers The journal will be assessed internally by the Learning in detail about five Indian and five Teacher out of 30 Marks. International designers (one Japanese, one Italian, one French, one American and one List of Practical Work to be done throughout the year British) along with their styles of clothes. 1. Creative use of various types of decorations 5. Care of Clothes Hand stitches (i) Some common stains and their removal:  Outline stitches  Ink Back Stitch, Stem Stitch, Chain Stitch  Lipstick  Filling stitches  Oil Paint  Satin Stitch, Herringbone Stitch, Long and  Perfume Short Stitch.  Perspiration  Fancy stitches  Water Feather Stitch, Buttonhole Stitch, Bullion  Ball point Pen Stitch and Trellis

223 2. Cutting and finishing techniques 4. Taking Body Measurements  Seams  Horizontal Measurements Stitched and Pinked, Turned and Stitched, Hand-Overcast, French, Flat-felled Bust, Waist, Hips, X Back, X Chest, Neck,  Tucks Shoulder, Armhole, Dart Separation Pin Tuck, Shell Tuck,  Vertical Measurements  Pleats Nape to Waist, Shoulder to Waist, Armhole Knife, Box, Inverted Box depth, Waist to Knee, Waist to Hip  Gathers  Neckline facings  Sleeve Measurements Shaped, Bias and piping for Round neck and Length to wrist, Upper arm girth, Wrist Square neck  Fasteners  Trouser Measurements Hook and Eye, Button and Buttonhole, Press Body rise, Side seam, Knee girth, bottom Buttons width  Plackets Even hem placket  Sources of buying various fabrics needed for Apparel  Hem finishes Slant hemming and Slip Hemming Introduction to various markets to buy required fabric 3. Basic Illustration  Learning to draw mechanical croque 5. Workshop on Accessory making  How to flesh out croque Costume jewellery: out of scrap, beads, paper  The 8 head and 10 head proportions beads, paper quilling  Clothing the croque --- 2 western and 2 Indian outfits

224 CLASS XII

There will be two papers in the subject: Identification, properties, uses, Paper I: Theory: 3 hours …… 70 marks advantages and disadvantages of the Paper II: Practical Work: 3 hours …… 30 marks above. (ii) Manufactured fibres - Rayon, Polyester, PAPER I – THEORY (70 Marks) Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate, spandex. Candidates will be required to answer five questions, Identification, properties, uses, including at least two questions from Section A and advantages and disadvantages of the two questions from Section B. above.

SECTION A (c) Fibre Properties. TEXTILES A broad understanding of terms describing fibres and their properties in order to 1. Introduction to Textiles understand their nature and how they (a) Definitions of textiles, fibre, yarn and fabric contribute to fabric properties. and their qualities. (i) Essential or primary properties - length to An introduction to textiles by identifying width ratio, density, tenacity, flexibility, textiles currently available in the market. cohesiveness. Understanding of textiles by defining basic terms such as: fibre, yarn, fabric, finish, (ii) Secondary properties - abrasion textile. resistance, absorbency, elongation, Uses of textiles in the following aspects of life resiliency, elastic recovery, electrical should be discussed briefly: Apparel, conductivity, elasticity, luster, heat household, industrial & medical. conductivity. The components of serviceability of textile 3. Yarn products should be explained with reference to: aesthetics, durability, comfort, (a) Yarn formation: Opening, cleaning, carding, appearance, retention and care. combing, drawing, roving, spinning. (b) Importance of the textile industry (i) Yarn Processing Importance of the textile industry to the Spun and Filament yarns: definition and Economy of - a brief discussion on its examples. contribution to the GDP, employment & (ii) Production of Spun and Filament Yarns: export. Spun yarn: 2. Textile Fibres Ring Spinning: Opening, cleaning, (a) Types of fibres. carding, combing, drawing, roving, Staple and filament fibres - definition and spinning (a brief understanding of each examples. process). (b) Classification of textile fibres based on Origin: Filament yarn: Natural and Manufactured fibres. (i) Natural Fibres (Plant and animal origin). Chemical spinning: Types - Wet spinning,  Cellulosic fibres: Cotton, Flax, linen, Melt spinning, Dry spinning (a brief jute, hemp; understanding of each process).  Protein fibres - Wool, Silk;

225 (b) Yarn twist. Henna (Mehendi), Turmeric and Beetroot for Importance, uses and advantages of yarn dyeing of fabrics. twist; amount of twist and how it Advantages of using natural dyes over contributes to strength and appearance. synthetic dyes. Types of yarns and their qualities - Single, (c) Indian Textiles: Paithani, Patola, Ply and Fancy. Pochampali, Baluchar Butidar, (c) Blends. Maheshwari, Mekhala Chadhar and Meaning, advantages and examples of Kanjeevaram. blends. Short notes on the following traditional with respect to origin, raw materials used, 4. Fabric Construction Techniques technique/s used, colours and designs: - (a) Weaving: Characteristics, advantages, Paithani, Patola, Pochampalli, Baluchari disadvantages and uses. Maheshwari, Mekhala Chadhar and Understanding basic terminology: Warp, weft Kanjeevaram.. and grain. (d) Drapes Process of weaving: a basic understanding of Different drape styles in India: the loom and its operations; (i) Nine-yard Maharashtrian style (ii) Gujarati style The three basic weaves: (iii) Coorg style Plain Weave – its variations (Basket and Rib). Description of the above drape styles along Twill Weave –its variations (Uneven and with sketching. Even) Satin and Sateen Weave SECTION B A brief idea of construction, characteristics, FASHION AND APPAREL advantages, disadvantages and uses of the 6. History of Fashion in Europe: 1901-1950 above weaves. (a) 1901-1920: Edwardian period / Labelle (b) Other fabric constructions: Knitting, Knotting Epoque / World War I. (macramé), Crochet, Braiding and Lace - to  A brief historical background; The effect be explained briefly. of War on Fashions. Basic understanding of the making, use and characteristics of the above.  Influences on Fashion- The French couture, changing role of women, advent Difference between woven and knit fabrics. of the automobile and influence of the (c) Non-Wovens – Leather, Suede, Fur, Felt, American high society. Plastics, Bonded, Fused and Laminated  1901-1908: Emphasis on S-shape fabrics. silhouette – pigeon chest. Uses and characteristics of the above to be  1909-1914: Straight line Empire revival explained briefly. and the hobble skirt with tight bottoms 5. Textiles in India  1914-1918: World War I silhouette was (a) Significance of colour in India. wider and skirts grew shorter Social, cultural and psychological importance  1918-1919: Post war styles, barrel of colour in India. shaped silhouettes (b) Indigenous dyes: Onion, Pomegranate, (b) 1941–1950: Frugal period / World War II, Marigold, Coffee, Henna (Mehendi), 1947 – New Look. Turmeric and Beetroot. Rationing of materials for Wartime utility Using natural materials like Onion peels, clothing to Dior’s New Look that added flare Pomegranate peels, Marigold flowers, Coffee, to the skirt.

226 7. History of Fashion in Europe: 1961-till date  Salwar–Kameez and of Punjab; (a) 1961 – 1970: Swinging Sixties / Hippies.  Sari and of Andhra Pradesh;  Growth and prosperity of top  Sharara & of Uttar Pradesh. manufacturers; Identification and sketching of the above along  Revolutionary fashions; with short notes on the given traditional wears in  Introduction to miniskirts; terms of materials, colours, pattern styles/ design and use.  Discontinuation of stockings and introduction of pantyhose; 9. Traditional Costumes of Men in India  Pinafore dresses and knit fabrics; The following traditional costumes of men are to  Retro fever. be studied: (b) 1971– 1980: Disco Decade / Punk period.  Suit of ;  Craze of Disco fitness in 80’s;  Achkan/ / : with mandarin  Street wear as shell suits; collar or without collar of North India;  Punk fashion accepted by all;  Salwar / of Aligarh / Kutch;  Skirt lengths varied from micro mini to  Cholu, dor and topi of the Gaddi Tribe of maxi, flared ; Himachal Pradesh;  Platform shoes;  Surkha, waist- and cap of the Koli Fishermen of Maharashtra.  Kaftans. Identification and sketching of the above along  Mix and match coordinated knitwear in fashion. with short notes on the given traditional wears in terms of materials, colours, pattern styles/ design (c) 2001– till date. and use.  New developments in use of materials in the 21st Century; PAPER II: PRACTICAL WORK (30 Marks)  Influence of Art and Celebrities on The Practical work will be evaluated by the teacher Fashion. and a Visiting Examiner appointed locally and NOTE: Units 6 and 7 to be taught with reference to: approved by the Council. (1) Women’s silhouettes A. Candidates will be expected to complete the (2) Invention and Innovation of fabrics and garments practical work listed below and maintain a Journal for the same. (3) Head gear and Hair-Styles List of Practical Work to be done throughout 8. Traditional Costumes of Women in India the year The following traditional costumes of women are (1) Fibre Identification (demonstration): using to be studied. microscope and burning test  Ghagra– and odhni of Rajasthan; Students have to write the aim, apparatus /  Kurti, Daaman and Chunder of Haryana; materials, method, observations and inference. Fibres to be identified are mercerized and  Sari of Tamil Nadu; unmercerized cotton, jute, linen, cultivated silk,  , skull cap, salwar and stole of raw silk, wild silk, wool, rayon, nylon, polyester Kashmir; and acrylic.

227 (2) Basic Weaves: Plain, Basket, Weft & Warp faced B. Practical Examination Rib, Uneven Warp & Weft faced Twill Weave The Practical examination will be of three and Even Twill Weave and Satin & Sateen hours duration. Questions will be based on the Weave. following: All the above weaves to be made (one sample each approximately 12/12 cms square) using two  Simple tests on fibre identification, colours of either satin ribbons 0.5 cms width or microscopic and physical appearance, burning two colors paper strips. The samples have to be tests, etc. accompanied by aim, materials required, method.  Simple dyeing of clothes. The properties and uses should be written along with it.  Tie and Dye, using any two methods of tie and dye in one colour. (3) Fabric Swatches: 12 varieties of cotton, 4 to 6 types of silk, 1 to 3 samples of wool, 1 to 3  Leaf and Vegetable printing samples of rayon, jute, linen, nylon, 10 varieties  of polyester, and 1 to 3 samples each of lace, Macramé’ knots. crochet, knitted, leather, plastic, bonded, felt,  Laundering and finishing of textile fabrics. fused, quilted, braided, cords, fur, narrow width Cotton & Silk saree, cotton shirt & blouse, fabrics. Woolen cardigan, synthetics. All fabric swatches should be 4/4 or 4/7 cms in  Renovation and repairs, darning, patchwork. size. (4) Ten Macramé’ knots with names: Square knot, ASSESSMENT Alternating Square knot, Spiral knot, Basket stitch, Snow flake design, Picot design, Half hitch, Marks out of 30 will be distributed as follows: Diamond, Larks head, Monkey fist. Candidates will be required to submit a Journal (5) Leaf & vegetable printing: Three samples A4 containing a record of all the work done size – (a) Leaf printing (b) Vegetable printing throughout the year, as part of Practical Work. (c) Combination of leaf & vegetable printing.  Evaluation of the Journal by the Teacher The above printing can be done on a (Continuous Evaluation) : 5 Marks T-shirt/blouse. (6) Sixteen tie-dye samples (A4 Size) with  Evaluation of the Journal by a Visiting write-up of aim, materials, equipment, method, Examiner : 5 Marks dyeing recipes. Single and Double dyeing.  Practical Examination (to be evaluated by the (7) Newspaper clippings of textile inventions & new Visiting Examiner) : 20 marks developments during the current academic year. (8) Laundering and Finishing of textile fabrics such as Cotton & Silk sarees, cotton shirt & , Woolen cardigan, synthetics. (9) Renovation and Repair, darning and patch work

228 SAMPLE TABLE FOR PRACTICAL WORK

Evaluation of Journal (Practical Evaluation of the TOTAL MARKS = 30 Work done throughout the year) Practical Evaluation of Journal (by Teacher + Visiting Examination Examiner) + Evaluation of the Practical Unique Examination (by the Visiting Examiner) Identification S. No. Number (Unique (To be entered by the Visiting Examiner ID)/ Index Number only) of the candidate 5 Marks 5 Marks 20 Marks (by the (by the Visiting (by the Visiting Teacher) Examiner) Examiner) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Name of the Visiting Examiner: ______

Signature: ______

Date: ______

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