Battle Gear Atten-Shun! John Galliano Is Playing War Games in His Pre-Fall Collection for Christian Dior, with Masculine-Feminine Military Looks
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Page 1 Monday s MEN’S: Coach to MEMO PAD: launch first men’s Weatherproof, store, page 2. s from Barack to Abe, page 3. For more, see s ACCESSORIES: WWD.com. Famed rare diamond goes public, page 3. Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 1, 2010 • $3.00 WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearWDMONDAY Battle Gear Atten-shun! John Galliano is playing war games in his pre-fall collection for Christian Dior, with masculine-feminine military looks. Here, his belted jacket over a lace skirt, worn with a helmet, utilitarian bag and over-the-knee stockings. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7. The First Global Step: Bloomingdale’s Opens Pair of Stores in Dubai By David Moin AT loNg lAsT, BloomiNgDAle’s dives into the international arena today with the opening of two stores in Dubai. it’s a critical test to gauge the viability of further overseas expansion and if the Bloomingdale’s cachet can be sustained in a partnership situation. Bloomingdale’s has licensed the units to the Al Tayer group llC, considered the region’s leading luxury retailer and distributor. “This was a total collaboration, but there is nothing in the stores, from a creative point of view, that Bloomingdale’s did not approve,” said michael gould, chairman and chief executive officer. “What Bloomingdale’s stands for is going to be embraced by Dubai.” gould and his team will be keeping See Bloomingdale’s, Page12 RE T AI M MINIQUE O D BY PHOTO BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Coach to Open First Men’s-Only Store By Jean E. Palmieri said. “That’s our anchor. We also have a great wallet and small accessories business.” NEW YORK — Coach is turning to men’s wear. Tucci declined to project how many men’s WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMONDAY The accessories and leather goods com- stores the company may ultimately open. “We’ll pany will open its first men’s-only store at 370 start with one and really live it,” he said. “We FASHION Bleecker Street in Manhattan’s West Village in will drive very hard in this one location and un- John Galliano’s pre-fall at Christian Dior had a May. The 550-square-foot unit will be in a former derstand the business fully. The easy part is to 6 Ruehl space and will be adjacent to the compa- add more stores.” military theme, Frida Giannini featured modern ny’s Legacy women’s boutique. The shop will offer business and travel ac- luxury at Gucci and fabrics ruled at Ferré. “We see men’s as a global growth opportunity cessories, small leather goods, footwear, outer- GENERAL and the opening of this store is an essential com- wear, watches, sunwear, fragrance, and related ponent in building our share in this category,” accessories. To mark the opening, Coach will 1 Bloomingdale’s dives into the international arena said Mike Tucci, president of North American produce a limited series of graffiti-printed can- today with the opening of two stores in Dubai, Retail for the brand. “We view this store as a lab- vas totes that will be available exclusively at the a critical test of any overseas expansion. oratory where we can handpick pieces and pilot West Village shop. Tucci said the store will also 2 Coach will open its first men’s-only store on emerging collections, while offering a more inti- have “a handful of shoes and seasonal [apparel] Bleecker Street in New York in May, adjacent mate and distinctive shopping experience. categories such as T-shirts, swimwear, wind- to the company’s Legacy women’s boutique. Today, we are very much of a women’s breakers and cold-weather products such platform, but this gives us the oppor- as parkas. But we’re not going into the 3 The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond, a rare 31.06- tunity to create a much more specific apparel business,” he said. “This will carat stone that hasn’t been shown publicly men’s aesthetic. That’s the mission.” be a very small, tight space.” for 50 years, was unveiled at the Smithsonian. Tucci said for several years the Coach characterized the assort- 3 A lower tax rate lifted Shiseido’s net profit for the company has been “fine tuning the WWD ment in the store as “elevated” and first nine months of the year, but sales suffered as men’s assortment to balance the core “curated,” and said it will include lim- consumers snapped up fewer cosmetics. men’s product with emerging opportu- Men’s ited edition product as well as outside nities that would appeal to the style con- collaborations. “We will do some addition- s 8 INNERWEAR: With retail sales of intimates seeing scious and fashion-oriented man.” This effort al silhouettes or archival styles in different small gains for holiday, vendors are looking to has “gained traction” in the U.S. as well as in leathers that will be exclusive to this location,” keep the momentum going. Japan and China, he added. As a result, Coach Tucci said. “We will also work with some outside 13 ACCESSORIES: True to the Trump “think big” moved to capitalize on the success by seeking people to offer their interpretation of the Coach tradition, Ivanka Trump has plans to triple sales “select spaces for men.” bag and other things.” of her namesake fine jewelry firm. Until this store, Tucci said men’s product Tucci said other retailers on Bleecker Street, has been housed in retail locations alongside including Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and EYE the dominant women’s product. Within the com- Brunello Cucinelli, give Coach the opportunity Midnight by Carole Thursday night’s annual Sidaction AIDS benefit pany’s concept stores, such as the one at 595 to offer higher-priced goods there. “We will 4 Hochman’s Modal gala in Paris attracted top fashion talent and a Madison Avenue, men’s is sold in a shop-within- stretch ourselves from a price point perspec- sleep dress. few Hollywood types for good measure. a-shop. “But now we want to see what it can do if tive,” he said. it stands on its own,” he said. The store will be designed by the Coach Classified Advertisements...........................................................................................30-31 The new focus on men’s is the latest move Architecture Group and will restore the build- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS in Coach’s diversification strategy that has re- ing’s original copper finishes. It will also pro- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’s NAME. sulted in lines such as the youthful spirited vide a nod to the history of the neighborhood by WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROU P. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Poppy collection with more approachable price using antique finishes and repurposed materi- VOLUME 199, NO. 2. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one points. In 2007, the Coach Legacy retail store als. The company’s silver-leaf logo and custom additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, bowed on Bleecker Street, featuring bags, shoes cartouche detailing will be used for the windows and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé and accessories inspired by Coach’s heritage and there will be mahogany awnings with con- Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice and classic icons. trasting white trim. The interior will be marked President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and The men’s business for Coach centers on bags by natural wood flooring, industrial inspired fur- at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO — “from travel to business to a more modern nishings, custom pendant lighting and leather West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O. 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