Page 1 Monday s MEN’S: Coach to MEMO PAD: launch first men’s Weatherproof,

store, page 2. s from Barack to Abe, page 3. For more, see s ACCESSORIES: WWD.com. Famed rare diamond goes public, page 3.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 1, 2010 • $3.00

WAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearWDMonDay Battle Gear Atten-shun! John Galliano is playing war games in his pre-fall collection for Christian Dior, with masculine-feminine military looks. Here, his belted jacket over a lace skirt, worn with a helmet, utilitarian bag and over-the-knee stockings. For more on the season, see pages 6 and 7.

The First Global Step: Bloomingdale’s Opens Pair of Stores in Dubai By David Moin AT loNg lAsT, BloomiNgDAle’s dives into the international arena today with the opening of two stores in Dubai. it’s a critical test to gauge the viability of further overseas expansion and if the Bloomingdale’s cachet can be sustained in a partnership situation. Bloomingdale’s has licensed the units to the Al Tayer group llC, considered the region’s leading luxury retailer and distributor. “This was a total collaboration, but there is nothing in the stores, from a creative point of view, that Bloomingdale’s did not approve,” said michael gould, chairman and chief executive officer. “What Bloomingdale’s stands for is going to be embraced by Dubai.” gould and his team will be keeping See Bloomingdale’s, Page 12 re T ai m minique O d BY PHOTO BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Coach to Open First Men’s-Only Store By Jean E. Palmieri said. “That’s our anchor. We also have a great wallet and small accessories business.” new YoRk — Coach is turning to men’s wear. Tucci declined to project how many men’s WWDAccessories/Innerwear/LegwearMOnDay The accessories and leather goods com- stores the company may ultimately open. “We’ll pany will open its first men’s-only store at 370 start with one and really live it,” he said. “We FAshion Bleecker Street in Manhattan’s West Village in will drive very hard in this one location and un- John Galliano’s pre-fall at Christian Dior had a May. The 550-square-foot unit will be in a former derstand the business fully. The easy part is to 6 Ruehl space and will be adjacent to the compa- add more stores.” military theme, Frida Giannini featured modern ny’s Legacy women’s boutique. The shop will offer business and travel ac- luxury at Gucci and fabrics ruled at Ferré. “We see men’s as a global growth opportunity cessories, small leather goods, footwear, outer- geneRAL and the opening of this store is an essential com- wear, watches, sunwear, fragrance, and related ponent in building our share in this category,” accessories. To mark the opening, Coach will 1 Bloomingdale’s dives into the international arena said Mike Tucci, president of North American produce a limited series of graffiti-printed can- today with the opening of two stores in Dubai, Retail for the brand. “We view this store as a lab- vas totes that will be available exclusively at the a critical test of any overseas expansion. oratory where we can handpick pieces and pilot West Village shop. Tucci said the store will also 2 Coach will open its first men’s-only store on emerging collections, while offering a more inti- have “a handful of shoes and seasonal [apparel] Bleecker Street in New York in May, adjacent mate and distinctive shopping experience. categories such as T-shirts, swimwear, wind- to the company’s Legacy women’s boutique. Today, we are very much of a women’s breakers and cold-weather products such platform, but this gives us the oppor- as parkas. But we’re not going into the 3 The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond, a rare 31.06- tunity to create a much more specific apparel business,” he said. “This will carat stone that hasn’t been shown publicly men’s aesthetic. That’s the mission.” be a very small, tight space.” for 50 years, was unveiled at the Smithsonian. Tucci said for several years the Coach characterized the assort- 3 A lower tax rate lifted Shiseido’s net profit for the company has been “fine tuning the WWD ment in the store as “elevated” and first nine months of the year, but sales suffered as men’s assortment to balance the core “curated,” and said it will include lim- consumers snapped up fewer cosmetics. men’s product with emerging opportu- Men’s ited edition product as well as outside nities that would appeal to the style con- collaborations. “We will do some addition- s 8 INNERWEAR: With retail sales of intimates seeing scious and fashion-oriented man.” This effort al silhouettes or archival styles in different small gains for holiday, vendors are looking to has “gained traction” in the U.S. as well as in leathers that will be exclusive to this location,” keep the momentum going. Japan and China, he added. As a result, Coach Tucci said. “We will also work with some outside 13 ACCESSORIES: True to the Trump “think big” moved to capitalize on the success by seeking people to offer their interpretation of the Coach tradition, Ivanka Trump has plans to triple sales “select spaces for men.” bag and other things.” of her namesake fine jewelry firm. Until this store, Tucci said men’s product Tucci said other retailers on Bleecker Street, has been housed in retail locations alongside including Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and eYe the dominant women’s product. Within the com- Brunello Cucinelli, give Coach the opportunity midnight by carole Thursday night’s annual Sidaction AIDS benefit pany’s concept stores, such as the one at 595 to offer higher-priced goods there. “We will 4 hochman’s modal gala in Paris attracted top fashion talent and a Madison Avenue, men’s is sold in a shop-within- stretch ourselves from a price point perspec- sleep dress. few Hollywood types for good measure. a-shop. “But now we want to see what it can do if tive,” he said. it stands on its own,” he said. The store will be designed by the Coach Classified Advertisements...... 30-31 The new focus on men’s is the latest move Architecture Group and will restore the build- To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is in Coach’s diversification strategy that has re- ing’s original copper finishes. It will also pro- [email protected], using The individual’s name. sulted in lines such as the youthful spirited vide a nod to the history of the neighborhood by WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2010 FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. Poppy collection with more approachable price using antique finishes and repurposed materi- VOLUME 199, NO. 2. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one points. In 2007, the Coach Legacy retail store als. The company’s silver-leaf logo and custom additional issue in January, July, October and December, two additional issues in April, May, June, August, and November, bowed on Bleecker Street, featuring bags, shoes cartouche detailing will be used for the windows and three additional issues in February, March and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé and accessories inspired by Coach’s heritage and there will be mahogany awnings with con- Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice and classic icons. trasting white trim. The interior will be marked President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and The men’s business for Coach centers on bags by natural wood flooring, industrial inspired fur- at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO — “from travel to business to a more modern nishings, custom pendant lighting and leather West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box take such as totes and messenger bags,” Tucci seating vignettes. 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production Speedo President Schneider Exits correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available By Rachel Brown now Lululemon Athletica Inc.’s executive vice to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not president of general merchandise management want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or PAULA SChNeIDeR hAS DePARTeD AS and sourcing, left the brand in 2007. Schneider call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, president of Speedo USA. joined Warnaco in 2006 as president of designer PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, Schneider’s exit was confirmed by Speedo swimwear for several brands, including Anne PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS spokeswoman Audra Silverman, who declined fur- Cole and Michael Kors, that Warnaco ceased SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ther comment. Schneider could not be reached. producing or sold in 2007, with the exception of Warnaco Group Inc., which holds the license Calvin Klein. Prior to Warnaco, she was presi- for Speedo in perpetuity, is said to be searching dent of Laundry by Shelli Segal, a division of Liz for a replacement. Claiborne Inc., and president of sales at BCBG DAILY this has to work. helen McCluskey remains at the helm of Max Azria. “ Warnaco’s global swimwear in addition to its In the third quarter ending Oct. 3, 2009, the QUote if it doesn’t, it’s a intimates business as a group president at the last for which Warnaco has reported financial New York-based apparel firm. data, the Speedo-led swimwear division de- blemish on the Bloomingdale’s name. During Schneider’s tenure, Speedo’s LZR clined 5 percent to generate $30.2 million in Racer was a star in the pool as Michael Phelps revenues and reported an operating loss of $7.4 it’s very important. swam his way to a record eight gold medals at million. The company blamed lower sales in the the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games. But the gold- sporting goods channel and a lack of Olympics- — michael gould,” chairman and chief executive officer en moment was short lived for the LZR Racer, related sales for the slumping performance. of Bloomingdale’s, on store launches in Dubai. Page one. which has been banned from competition by In contrast, Warnaco’s swimwear division swimming’s governing body FINA. In December, grew around 11 percent in fiscal year 2008 to Schneider announced a Speedo suit called LZR generate $702.3 million in revenues, $308.1 mil- coming this week Racer elite to comply with FINA’s updated rules lion of which were in the U.S., and account for on swimwear. 12.6 percent of Warnaco’s total revenues. The di- MONDAY: Accessories and Intimate • Major U.S. retailers report Schneider became president of Speedo vision registered a positive operating income of Apparel Market Weeks, New York. January same-store sales. USA after former president Sheree Waterson, nearly $11.5 million at the time. • Alberto-Culver Co. reports • Bebe Stores Inc. reports first-quarter sales and earnings. second-quarter sales and earnings. Lara stone TUESDAY: Anteprima, Milan • Timberland Co. reports at the (through Wednesday). fourth-quarter and year-end TODAY ON Munch Fabric Start, Munich sales and earnings. sidaction • More images from the Sidaction • gala. (through Thursday). gala in Paris and the Calvin • Korean Preview, New York FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Klein party in Los Angeles (through Wednesday). Department releases the • Trend Report: Autumn January employment report. WEDNESDAY: ASR, San Diego ere Colors for pre-fall 2010 (through Thursday). SATURDAY: Premium Order,

Feu G WWD • All the looks from the Christian • Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. Düsseldorf (through Feb. 9). .com reports third-quarter sales

PHAN e Dior, Gucci and Gianfranco Ferré e

T and earnings. SUNDAY: CPD, Düsseldorf

S pre-fall 2010 collections

BY (through Feb. 9).

o

T • Additional images of THURSDAY: Madrid International ISPO, Munich o • H

P Ivanka Trump jewelry Fashion Fair (through Saturday). (through Feb. 10). WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 3 WWD.COM BEAUTY BEAT Rare Diamond Dazzles at the Smithsonian Shiseido Profit Rises, Sales Fall By Sophia Chabbott the first time and went through a battery of tests, he said. By Koji Hirano and Amanda Kaiser WASHINGTON — Gasps, oohs and ahhs filled the in- The stone dates to the 17th century, when it timate Harry Winston Gallery at the Smithsonian’s was given to Infanta Margarita Teresa upon her TOKYO — A lower tax rate lifted Shiseido’s net profit for the National Museum of Natural History here, where engagement to Emperor Leopold I of Austria in first nine months of the year, but sales suffered as consumers scientists, reporters and one of the world’s wealthi- 1664 by her father, Philip IV of Spain. The dia- snapped up fewer cosmetics and beauty products. Also in Asia est men were locked into a small room. mond was passed on to the House of Wittelsbachs, last week, Kao Corp. and Kosé Corp. reported sales and profits. The cause of the commotion was the Wittelsbach- members of the ruling house of Bavaria, in 1772. Shiseido’s profit for the period ended Dec. 31 increased Graff Diamond, an extraordinarily rare 31.06-carat When Bavaria became a republic after World War 11.2 percent to 23.7 billion yen or $253.6 million at average Deep-Blue Color diamond — a bit smaller than a I, its crown jewels were sold through Christie’s exchange rates. However, sales slumped 10.4 percent to 464.64 walnut — that hadn’t been shown publicly for more in 1931. But the diamond disappeared before the billion yen, or $4.97 billion. than 50 years. auction and was replaced by a worthless piece of The cosmetics and beauty giant’s operating profit slid 12.6 Graff Diamonds chairman Laurence Graff bought blue, cut glass. percent to 32.6 billion yen, or $348.8 million. the stone in 2008 for 16.4 As mysteriously as it “In the first three quarters under review, both Japan and million pounds, or about vanished, the stone re-

overseas nations faced continued economic stagnation, while $24 million, at a Christie’s titution surfaced in Belgium in S n i conditions surrounding the consumer goods market remained auction. He flew in from 1951. It was displayed difficult,” said the company, which has launched a $1.7 billion London to loan the cush- n at the World Exhibition oni A bid for Bare Escentuals. ion-shaped stone to the S in Brussels in 1958 and In terms of its cosmetics business, Shiseido reported a year- Smithsonian for research was identified as the on-year sales increase in the Asia-Oceania region, with particu- and display. It went on ex- Wittelsbach in 1962. lar strength in China, on a local currency basis. But total sales hibit Friday until Aug. 1 in After Graff ’s purchase hoto/Smith p

in the overseas cosmetics business fell 0.9 percent on a local the same hall as its chief p and 2009 restoration, the currency basis and 15.8 rival, the larger and more A Gemological Institute of percent after transla- famous Hope Diamond. America upgraded its

tion into yen. Of all the diamonds that The Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond. photo by color classification to In China, Shiseido the billionaire and gem Deep Fancy Blue, akin to “focused on expand- lover has bought and sold, that of the Hope. It is the ing our network of cos- the Wittelsbach-Graff is by far his favorite. largest colored diamond GIA has ever certified. metics specialty stores “I’ve been fortunate over the years to own some of Graff said the stone was priceless. Asked if he and strove to attract the world’s greatest diamonds,” Graff said. “But the would consider ever selling it, Graff said: “I have new types of custom- Wittelsbach-Graff is the most precious and beautiful.” nightmares. I don’t want to part with all of these ers by strengthening Graff restored the stone by having the chips re- beautiful stones that I’ve [acquired]. It breaks your our makeup line,” the moved for optimum brilliance. heart to sell…but some clients are demanding. They company said. In the The diamond has a storied history. It comes come to me and they say, ‘Show me something that Americas and Europe, from the same Indian mine as the 45.52-carat will break your heart to sell.’ It breaks my heart. It Shiseido renewed the Hope Diamond that Harry Winston donated to the really does.” global Shiseido brand, Smithsonian in 1959. Graff America president and chief executive offi- which led to a sales Jeffrey Post, curator of the National Gem cer Henri Barguirdjian said the unveiling of the stone Shiseido president and ceo Shinzo Maeda. turnaround in the third Collection at the museum, was able to exam- on Thursday was historic. After the Smithsonian, quarter, and the per- ine the stone to see if, as some believed, the the Wittelsbach-Graff will likely go on display in centage of the sales decline in those regions diminished on a Wittelsbach-Graff was derived from the same London’s Natural History Museum, Graff said. local-currency basis. original crystal as the Hope. But it turns out “they Although the Hope and the Wittelsbach-Graff Meanwhile, at Kao, profits and sales dropped for the nine aren’t brother and sister stones,” Post said. “They may be “cousins,” they seemingly don’t share the months ended Dec. 31. Net income dropped 17.6 percent are more like cousins.” same family drama. The Hope has a legend that it is to 44.7 billion yen, or $478.3 million, while operating profit Post described the stone as “the most famous di- cursed, as several of its owners died horrible deaths. dropped 7.2 percent to 84.8 billion yen, or $907.4 million, com- amond that the public has never seen.” The Hope “There are no detrimental stories [associated] pared with the same period a year ago. Sales dropped 9.3 per- and the Wittelsbach were studied side by side for with it,” Graff said of the Wittelsbach-Graff. cent to 910.6 billion yen, or $9.74 billion. Sales of its beauty care division for the nine months dropped 4.4 percent to 4.2 billion yen, or $44.9 million. At Kosé, Japan’s third-largest cosmetics company, weak MEMO PAD consumer demand and a strong yen bit into results for the first nine months of the year, the firm said Friday. WEATHERPROOF’S NEW TRICKS: As it scrambles for a last-minute, New York metropolitan area commercial during Kosé said net profit for the nine months ending Dec. 31 Super Bowl XLIV, on WCBS-TV Feb. 7, publicity stunt artist Weatherproof has a few other tricks up its sleeve. slid 9.9 percent to 3.16 billion yen, or $33.8 million. Sales de- For one, Weatherproof Garment Co. is set to reprise its five-second, animated black-and-white TV commercial creased 3.5 percent to 130.7 billion yen, or $1.40 billion. Sunday during the 52nd Annual Grammy Awards on CBS. “I’m only interested in marketing the name The company, which is dwarfed by both Shiseido and Kao, Weatherproof,” Freddie Stollmack, president of Weatherproof, said of the decision to trot out the supershort spot for reiterated its previous forecasts for its fiscal year ending a fourth time. March 31. Net profit is seen falling by 26.2 percent to 3.5 bil- Or the name in association with the likeness of a U.S. president. Weatherproof is planning to mount a billboard lion yen, or $38.8 million, while sales should drop about 1.2 in Las Vegas with a doctored portrait of President Abraham Lincoln “wearing” Weatherproof jacket style 2821 percent to 176 billion yen, or $1.95 billion. (and a stovepipe hat) while strolling past the White House, paired with the slogan: “Fit for a President.” The billboard is slated to go up on Las Vegas Boulevard near Mandalay Bay between Feb. 1 and 6 and to appear for 28 days, timed to coincide with the MAGIC CFDA Names Incubator Designers fashion trade show. NEW YORK — The Council of Fashion Designers of America This plan comes shortly after and New York City Economic Development Corporation Weatherproof took down its Time Square have tapped 12 designers as the first tenants of the CFDA billboard showing President Obama Fashion Incubator. sporting a Weatherproof jacket, following “The CFDA Fashion Incubator is a natural extension of a White House complaint that the image what our organization already does to support emerging design suggested Obama was hawking the talent,” said Lisa Smilor, CFDA associate executive director. jacket. Now there’s an image of Mount “We are thrilled to welcome this illustrious group of designers Rushmore up at 5 Times Square — into the program, and are most appreciative for the support with a Weatherproof logo imposed on and involvement of our esteemed industry colleagues.” it — paired with the brand’s “Fit for a The inaugural batch of designers are Alice Ritter, Bibhu President” claim. — Valerie Seckler Mohapatra, Prabal Gurung, Sophie Theallet, Rachel Dooley with Gemma Redux, Grant Krajecki of Grey Ant, Waris THE SOCIAL SCENE: Social sites focused on Ahluwalia of House of Waris, Joel Diaz with Jolibe, Alison products and shopping continue to grow. Lewis with the Lewis label, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Last week, ThisNext closed on a third Osborne of Public School, Yuvi Alpert and Danna Kobo of round of venture funding for $1.2 million Ruby Kobo and Justin Giunta of Subversive Jewelry. and today plans to publicly disclose it Would Honest Abe have worn Weatherproof? To win individual design studio space at 209 West 38th absorbed competitor Stylehive in November. Street, the designers needed to submit a business plan, show The company changed its name to Curatemedia, and together, its two bookmarking sites have 3.3 million they had garnered “substantive editorial coverage” as well unique visitors a month and about 700,000 registered users, said president and chief executive officer Scott as orders from high-level retailers, have been in business for Morrow. The two sites have a similar focus, but will reposition so Stylehive will specialize in fashion and beauty, more than a year and a half and have a staff working for them. and ThisNext will center on design. Stylehive also owns StyleDiary.net, the first outfit-sharing site online. The designers received two-year leases on spaces that range Curatemedia plans to expand into other lifestyle niches as well, Morrow said. Possibilities include sports, from 800 to 1,000 square feet for below market rates of be- ecology and parenting. tween $1,500 and $2,000 per month. The company is headquartered in Santa Monica, Calif., and has 12 employees. ThisNext broke even at the The CFDA Fashion Incubator program was announced last end of last year, and Curatemedia plans to turn a profit in six months, Morrow said. Revenue is about evenly split fall with Mayor Michael Bloomberg. The NYCEDC is also of- between display advertising and clicks. That is, some retailers pay Curate when a shopper clicks through to their fering the CFDA a $200,000 grant over three years to help es- site or buys an item. tablish the program. Stylehive ceo Michael Carrier has left the company, Morrow added. Terms of the deal were not — Ross Tucker disclosed. — Cate T. Corcoran 4 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Party Mode Thursday nighT’s annual sidacTion aids benefit gala in Paris attracted top fashion talent — and a few hollywood types for good measure. Rick Owens, Melanie Laurént, Peter Dundas, Delphine Arnault, Margherita Missoni, Pierre Hardy, Marie-Josée Croze, Natalia Vodianova, Virginie Ledoyen, Astrid Frisbey-Berges and Robin Wright flocked to the sprawling dining room of the Pavillon d’armenonville. With the couture shows having closed and ready- to-wear collections around the corner, a few of the models took the opportunity to trade tips for beating fashion week fatigue. “sleeping, sun, holidays,” said Lara Stone. “a russian bagna for sure,” purred Naomi Campbell, who will be celebrating her 25th year in fashion on april 14. The supermodel has also been busy planning her Fashion For relief 2010 benefits for women and children in haiti, which will be held in new york and london this month. Meanwhile, Jean Paul Gaultier has been spending his time working on a men’s and women’s innerwear line, likely to Kate be launched next year. so, conical bras? “it will be very Bosworth in gaultier” is all the designer would say. Calvin Klein and Anna Mouglalis is about to start shooting a film in Naomi CampbellCampbell Collection. Brussels. called “chez gino,” the movie was written by inin LouisLouis Vuitton.Vuitton. Mouglalis’ hubby, Samuel Benchetrit. “it’s about family, fun s Francisco Costa and, of course, pizza. with Jordana • • • Brewster in Calvin Francisco Costa and Italo Zucchelli threw a party in los Klein Collection. angeles on Thursday night with hip new art fund los angeles nomadic division. The bash took place in a new building across the street from los angeles art Month headquarters in the Pacific design center and next door to the Balenciaga store on Melrose. Kate Bosworth, Ali Larter, Bijou Phillips, Abbie Cornish and Ryan Phillippe came to check out the art. But Penélope Cruz had her own agenda: “i brought my friends in the calvin family together with my friend [director] Paul Haggis, who has a foundation called artists for Peace and Justice that has been doing work with haiti. it’s providing relief, but also long-term investment in education,” she said. nearby, Ginnifer Goodwin analyzed an installation by Jean Shin. shin took the

space-age swaths of fabric costa used for his spring collection (the silhouettes ara

Nicky Hilton in H Delphine left behind where the clothes had been cut out were still apparent) and Astrid Frisbey- Arnault Rodarte for Target transformed them into banners hung in the cavernous space. “i think that’s part with Bijou Phillips in Berges in Ralph with Marisa of my dress,” said the actress. Berenson. Proenza Schouler. Lauren. Muga Muya y B ara H e u ane Feugere; tep H s

y B n ac ti O D si ella; D ar s

O nat O D y Os B t HO p Milla Jovovich Ryan Phillippe with with Ali Penélope party Cruz in Abbie Cornish, Larter, both Calvin Klein both in Calvin Klein in Calvin Klein Natalia Vodianova Robin Wright Collection. Collection. Collection. in Louis Vuitton. Klein calvin

Hiromi Uehara over the years, having honed her piano skills from a very young age. “I started when I was six years old, and never wanted to quit playing. It was the best toy when I was little,” she says. she enrolled in the Key player yamaha school of music a year later and eventually landed at the In a musIc Industry prone to labels, HIromI ueHara berklee college of music in 1999, where she studied jazz composition strives to avoid typecasting. “I don’t really believe in genres,” and contemporary writing. It was there she was introduced to jazz says the classically trained pianist and composer, who counts legend ahmad Jamal, who helped launch her career. “He hooked me oscar peterson, erroll Garner and Jeff beck as influences. “I up with everything,” she says. don’t want people to have any preconceptions about me. I want Well, not quite everything. When it comes to her fashion choices, the first impression to be the music.” uehara turns to her husband, Japanese designer mihara yasuhiro. so it’s not surprising that uehara, 30, pushes the piano’s limits best known for his collaborations with puma, yasuhiro asked uehara with her first solo album, “place to be” (telarc International), to perform at his 2006 milan show after seeing her on television. the which hit stores last week (she has five previous titles with her pair were smitten and married in 2007. backup band, sonic bloom). the spunky, jazz-meets-rock record “I always loved fashion like any girl, but now I get to go backstage features uehara’s energetic, experimental approach and was and see it more. I wear [his designs] almost every day,” says uehara. inspired by time she spent on the road during her 20s. she recently appeared in Gap’s Japanese fall 2009 ads and favors “I’ve met so many people in every place you can imagine cardigans, one-pieces and thigh-high boots onstage. — europe, southeast asia, africa — and I wanted to thank the all the better armor against the pressures of her newfound solo people who gave me a home, a place to be,” says uehara, who career and its international tour, which continues Wednesday in boston. has performed everywhere from carnegie Hall to the Glastonbury “this feels very alone,” she says. “It’s the biggest challenge Festival. most of the songs on the 12-track album, such as “bQe,” because you have nobody else and express things with just one sound. “berne baby berne!” and “cape cod chips,” are directly associated I have to be the drummer, the bass player and the orchestra. It’s all with specific locations. “It’s a traveling diary,” explains uehara. my responsibility.” the Hamamatsu, Japan, native has seduced many an audience — Priya Rao WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 5 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS Generra Electric LUCKY BREAK: Lucky Brand co-founders Gene installation that will attempt to channel Montesano and Barry Perlman are set to exit Bourdon House, its iconic Mayfair mansion THE LAST TIME SWAIM AND colorblock cardigans and “suction” their operating roles at the Liz Claiborne- in London, into a Meatpacking District Christina Hutson staged a runway show, stretch rayon tops. owned brand. The duo are in the fi nal year space at 13th and Washington. There will in 2008, the theme was Father Yo d and As for the Disney fi lm inspiration, of a three-year contract, which stipulated be a shopping dimension to the project, but the commune living of the late Sixties. the Hutsons point to the splashy prints their creative director roles would be scaled the brand said the concept is more sensory Back then, the husband-and-wife team and palette. “We were thinking of the back this year. Montesano and Perlman are than commercial. It will showcase the fall was designing for the editorially be- colors of the animals, the background now “nonoperating creative consultants” at collection by Kim Jones, who will visit New loved Obedient Sons & Daughters label. and the dwarves,” Christina says. the jeans company they founded in 1990. York for the launch party. Everyone knows how that story ends. “The dwarves’ hats,” clarifi es Swaim. Their contracts were similar to those given by The economy flatlined, and at the be- Punching things up a sporty notch are Liz Claiborne chief executive offi cer William Quincy ginning of 2009, the Hutsons surprised fl uorescent locker loops (a new Hutson McComb to Juicy Couture founders Gela Jones the industry by announcing they had Nash-Taylor and Pamela Skaist-Levy, who are pulled the plug on the line. Next Friday, A fall look also relinquishing operating responsibilities the designers will have their much- from Generra. at the Juicy division. Liz Claiborne acquired anticipated comeback moment, and 85 percent of Lucky Brand in 1999 for this time they’ll do so at the helm of a $113.5 million and made several more company having a hyped reboot of its multimillion-dollar payments over the years own: Generra. The Hutsons’ new inspi- for the remaining equity stake. On Jan. 4, ration? A decidedly more upbeat “Snow David DeMattei, a former group president of White and the Seven Dwarfs.” Williams-Sonoma, assumed the ceo role of “We were attracted to the colors, Lucky Brand. Patrick Wade, also of Williams- the movement and how sweet and fun Sonoma, became executive vice president everything was in the movie,” says and creative director of the brand. Lucky WWW.STARTRAKSPHOTO.COM Christina, nestled into her Brand ended the third quarter of 2009 with chair at the Generra 193 full-price stores and 46 outlets, with chair at the Generra PHOTO BY headquarters on comps declining 18.7 percent for the fi rst Seventh Avenue. nine months of the year. ONLY ON MARS: What do Jay-Z, “Going forward, President Clinton and Gorvernator Arnold everything is REYES ACTS OUT — ON TV: The death knell Schwarzenegger have in common? They going to be for ABC’s “Ugly Betty” show has tolled, are all brand ambassadors for Audemars bright and op- but there is still one more industry guest Piguet, which just landed its latest celebrity timistic.” She appearance to come. On Wednesday night, endorser: music mogul Quincy Jones. The gestures to the designer Brian Reyes will make his prime- company feted the prolifi c songwriter racks of clothes time debut, playing himself. “It’s a fashion and producer in Los Angeles last week, around her — a Swaim and week scene, Betty’s doing the rounds, and where Jones showed off the limited edition preview exclusive Christina Hutson I happen to be at this restaurant where a timepiece Audemars made in his honor. to WWD — and show takes place,” said Reyes, who dressed Maybe it plays tunes from “Thriller.” they’re a rainbow of actress America Ferrera for the 2007 Golden cheerful jeans, ruffl ed Globes. “Onion rings are involved.” The COCKTAIL HOUR: Balmain designer Christophe

frocks and T-shirts with a AQUINO cameo is particularly meaningful for Reyes. Decarnin welcomed a stream of fashion folk pop Eighties vibe. The collection is a The original “Betty La Fea” series, which who came to check out the revamped Balmain marked shift from those of their pre- JOHN inspired ABC’s version, was based out of boutique on Rue François 1er in Paris last decessors; Tony Melillo, who helped Colombia, where his family is from. “I was Monday night. French singer and actor Patrick relaunch the popular Eighties brand in a teenager [living in Florida] when the show Bruel, accompanied by fellow actor Pascal 2004, went relaxed and leisurely, while PHOTOS BY came out,” recalled Reyes. “I watched it Elbé, said he has an autobiography coming his successor Pina Ferlisi took things addition) within each garment. The cou- with my parents. It was a family ritual.” As out this year. “We are about to run to the for a tomboyish spin. “This is defi nitely ple revamped the label beefi ng up both for his acting chops, the designer noted, screening of our fi lm,” said Elbé, referring to another take on Generra’s DNA,” says the size and font — “We wanted more “I’m defi nitely not quitting my day job.” the yet-unreleased “Like the Five Fingers of Dan Shamdasani, chief executive of- scale to make it fun,” explains Christina the Hand,” directed by Alexandre Arcady. fi cer and president of parent company — and are bringing their touch to TAKING A PAUSE: Two months Meanwhile, at the Palais Public Clothing. “It’s young, vibrant Generra’s Meatpacking District store by after stepping down as art de Tokyo, Antoine Arnault and fresh.” expanding the merch to include a selec- director for Hugo Boss’ organized the fi rst showing Perhaps more so than Melillo and tion of books, CDs and candles. progressive Hugo collection, in Paris of Chinese artist Ferlisi, the Hutsons mined the fi rm’s The Hustons also added a new face Bruno Pieters plans to put his Jiji’s “Hi Panda” series. “I playful past in the Eighties. “I actu- to the brand: girl-about-town and DJ signature brand on hiatus. have a big panda sculpture ally wore Generra when I was in high Harley Viera-Newton. “She has the Distributors of the nine-year- already,” he said, adding school,” says Swaim, who consulted on energy of what we’re doing,” says old label include Maria Luisa that the very same evening the last men’s presentation. “I loved the Christina. “She just seemed like a in Paris and The Convenience he bought a painting to brand at the time — khaki pants with natural [choice] for us.” Viera-Newton, Store in London. “Probably match. “You see that red fl oral contrasting cuffs sold with fl oral a student at New York University, is this will be diffi cult for some dot over there…that’s a new shirts to match. It was prime Eighties.” being featured in a “teaser” video that stores who supported me and one,” he said, pointing to a Christina, meanwhile, remembers the will be launched on the Generra Web believed in the collection for large Panda painting. hot gimmick Generra pioneered in site this week. “Rather than a preview all these years,” he said. The Kristin Scott Having popped to the early Nineties: Hypercolor cloth- of the collection,” Christina adds, “the designer is selling part of Thomas Cannes the previous evening ing, which changed color according to video is really about showing the new his archives at ra13, a new for the NRJ music awards, body temperature. The company still direction of the brand.” concept store in Antwerp, Pharrell Williams stopped owns the Hypercolor rights. “There’s While Shamdasani notes the collec- Belgium, with proceeds to be donated to SISP, by to see the exhibit, cocooned in a big puffer talk with Dan about [reviving] that,” tion will remain in the young contem- a children’s charity in southern India. jacket and moon boots. “I live in Miami, so Christina teases. “I’m excited for porary market, distribution points will I am not used to this cold,” he said, adding Hypercolor. It’s obviously a big part of change. “The distribution is going MAYFAIR TO MEATPACKING: After its well- he just scored the music to an upcoming the Generra history.” to be tighter. We’re looking care- received Paris show, Alfred Dunhill wants to animated fi lm called “Despicable Man.” Other But, fi rst, the upcoming fall collec- fully at strategic retail partners,” make a splash at New York Fashion Week, too. guests included actresses Catherine Deneuve tion: “We want to make sure we estab- he says, declining to give more On Feb. 11, the brand will open a weeklong and Kristin Scott Thomas. lish the energy and overall feel of the details, including sales projec- brand identity,” says Christina. A key tions for the new line, which will word both she and Swaim empha- wholesale from $100 to $500. size is “easy,” which explains the “This is still an exten- line’s casual vibe. Simple chiffon sion of ourselves,” remarks Anand Jon Faces More Charges in New York frocks, for example, are cinched Christina. “Generra is obvi- ANAND JON, THE DESIGNER CONVICTED OF RAPE AND SEXUAL ASSAULT IN with elastic waistbands, while ously a different brand so California in 2008, faces similar charges in Manhattan. jackets and blazers sport roomy it’s a different collection, but Jon, 36, who is serving a sentence of 59 years to life in prison in California, was ar- raglan sleeves. And, aside from a hopefully you can still see a raigned Friday in New York State Supreme Court on two indictments that contained handful of buttons strategically little bit of us and our sense dozens of new charges including rape, assault, sexual abuse and promoting a sexual placed in the men’s offerings, of humor.” Though the couple performance by a child. there are just snaps for hardware. also designs a separate Jon pleaded not guilty and was remanded to custody in New York. He faces as “So you can just throw on and Hutson collection, which they much as 25 years in prison if convicted of the most serious charges. take off,” says Swaim. “We’re not launched last year, both remain The Manhattan District Attorney’s offi ce said the alleged acts cited in the indict- thinking superdressy.” Rounding committed to this new chapter ments occurred between December 2002 and September 2006. The indictments cen- out the lineup are varsity sweat- with Shamdasani and Public ter on 12 alleged victims between the ages of 15 and 26, said a source with knowledge ers, outdoorsy parkas, chunky Clothing. “We’re focused on of the case. knits, kicky velvet skirts and suits Generra and seeing where this During his criminal trial in California, prosecutors said Jon was a “serial rapist,” the pair have termed “playsuits” can go,” says Swaim. He adds, who used his position to lure aspiring models to his Beverly Hills home. because, says Christina, “you half-joking, a brief research Jon, whose full name is Anand Jon Alexander, was arrested in Beverly Hills in wear them more to play than to plea: “Can you ask everyone March 2007 after a woman accused him of rape. An investigation turned up nine ac- be serious.” In addition, the de- to send their Eighties Generra cusers between the ages of 14 and 21. signers are launching a sepa- [to us], attention ‘499 Seventh A jury convicted him of rape and other sexual assault charges in November 2008. rate Generra Basics label Avenue?’” He was sentenced in August 2009. featuring denim, T-shirts, Generra — Venessa Lau — Matthew Lynch 6 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 A Little Luxe

Christian Dior Christian Dior WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 7 WWD.COM

John Galliano is up in arms for pre- Visconti’s “The Damned.” meanwhile, textile research and new materials, fall at Christian Dior with a fetching military Dubbed the “boyfriend’s closet” by frida weaves and processes were the starting point for theme that revisits the best of wartime style. Giannini, Gucci’s pre-fall collection follows in the Gianfranco ferré designers Tommaso aquilano Tailored army greens battle for attention with vein of her strong, heritage-themed men’s collection and roberto rimondi, and the end result includes delicate and featherlight edwardian dresses, she showed last month. a modern and understated anything from worsted classics such as herringbone some printed with faded english rose wallpaper luxury rules as Giannini sticks to minimalist shapes or croc scales printed on silk chiffon to nubby prints. for evening, Galliano’s forties sirens wear and pushes a beguiling combo of peach-handed wools featuring gold threads. “We went in a more sinuous, draped gowns dipped in sequins and silk camisoles with plunging necklines, tucked into luxurious sporty direction and mixed in more feathers, and topped with fluffy fur coats, evoking wide-leg pants and topped with oversize coats. masculine-feminine pieces,” aquilano says.

For more pre-fall, see WWD.com. KHEPRI STUDIO AND DOMINIQUE MAITRE

Gianfranco Ferré Gucci Gucci PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Vendors Aim to Build on Gains for Fall By Karyn Monget We’ll be showing new colors for the fourth quarter. the businesses that DKNY sleepwear’s With sales of basic and value- retailers feel very comfortable with microfleece pajamas and driven intimates leading small gains at are those they’ve already laid out polyester robe at the retail in december and January, manu- the money for. but retailers are most Komar Co. Left: Midnight facturers anticipate the momentum will likely to leave some money for discre- by Carole Hochman’s Modal continue to grow over the next several tionary spending.” sleep dress at The Carole months as they book the fall and holi- lida orzeck, chief executive of- Hochman Design Group. day seasons. ficer of Hanky Panky, said she bestsellers at stores have included in- expects sales of intimates to centives such as pajama sets with a third pick up. piece like boxers, whimsical packaging, “While the economy a broader range of fashion colors and has been challenging, we prints and soft, feel-good fabrics such as have been experienc- Modal, jersey knits, lightweight brushed ing an upswing in sales cotton flannel and lycra spandex-blend since the beginning of microfibers. the holiday season,” Merchandise that conveys an en- orzeck said. “there has hanced perceived value that helps entice been a very good response to the consumer to buy will be key to this our fashion prints and colors, as week’s market, vendors said. well as new business to be found among the items that could meet that with our camisoles, tops and soft goal are: bras. We fully expect buyers to • Dual-purpose shapewear with a ready- come into the market pleased to-wear flavor, such as lingerie-looking with how we finished the season, briefs and full slips with built-in control. ready to see new fashion for fall • Upscale heritage brand bras that and open to last-minute opportu- now offer embellished styles below $50. nities for immediate shipments. • A gift-with-purchase like garters or We expect the upswing we experi- stockings. enced at holiday in sales of fashion • Programs that mix and match five and basics to continue.” pairs of basic and fashion undies for $25, orzeck said retailers want to keep $26 or $27. their basic business strong and are bob nolan, president of Jockey looking for value and key fashion international’s north america wholesale trends that can be translated into in- and licensing operations, said a need for timate apparel. replenishment is starting to energize “our holiday ’09 packaging was a business activity. success so they’re eager to see what “We actually had a pretty good we have for this year,” she said. december, it continued into January, Hanky Panky’s holiday packaging and our shipments are looking good be- featured whimsical mini gift boxes for cause retailers’ inventories are down,” undies and related items. he said. “this is an interesting market “Retailers want a compelling reason for us because we showed new product in to buy,” said Jon e. lewis, president of november, and this week will be a combi- the d2 brands division of delta Galil nation of business and fashion meetings. ltd. “as always, it’s about product first

Tommy Hilfiger’s cotton flannel sleepshirt and microfiber bra and undies at D2 Brands. and price and value second. for new in- at $55. he added the younger, more con- troductions, both factors are essential. temporary b.tempted line will feature With current programs, retailers are two new styles, an allover floral-printed pushing hard for innovation and chal- mesh bra called new Romance that will lenging brands to stay relevant.” sell for $34, and the vamp, a cut-and-sew lewis said this is an important market lace bra, for $37. for the company, which will show holi- “this is one of our biggest markets

day deliveries for its lucky lounge and because we do a huge business for holi- tommy hilfiger lines. day with our red santa baby dolls with “lucky lounge continues to receive white marabou trim and gift sets by strong feedback on our new introductions,” cinema etoile,” said Mark Ryan, senior he said. “there is also opportunity to ex- vice president of sales and marketing at pand doors at Macy’s with tommy hilfiger.” Movie star inc. bob vitale, executive vice presi- Ryan said the company will offer a bobbi queen dent of marketing and sales at Wacoal gwp with a red velvet group of sleepwear america, said, “We are expecting an items: candy cane-printed thigh-highs or upbeat mood as business of late has garters attached to the garments. been pretty good. business certainly is “We’ll also be showing packaged, improving with each month [at retail] three-piece pajama sets in seven differ-

johnson; styled by being better than the last. We broke even ent colors, such as a rib-knit top, a jer- danielle irene/artistsbytimothypriano.com;

by in december and have had single-digit sey bottom and shorts,” Ryan said. “even increases in January.” though retail was tough for the holidays, Wacoal will present new product for the pajama set retails well.” late fall for department stores, as well Greg holland, vice president of sales as a review of the “entire fall season” for at the Komar co. and president of its li- specialty boutiques, vital said. censed donna Karan and dKnY sleep- “for late fall, Wacoal will be intro- wear collections, said retail results ducing three new bra collections, which “turned out as planned for the fall-holi- will center on beautiful laces and lots of day season.” trims that build more value into the prod- “sales were planned down slightly uct,” he said. “We’ll also have a new con- and most stores made their numbers,” tour bra with a lace back called classic holland said. “We are optimistic about charms, which will retail for $48 and this market and feel we have strong, in- ashley assistant: mizu/susan price inc.; fashion thomas iannaccone; model: jade/muse; hair goes up to 36ddd.” novative product. all of our major cus- by vitale added that Wacoal will pres- tomers will be in…but specialty store ap- ent two new full-figure styles that will be pointments seem to be divided between makeup photos by sized up to a 40G cup: a lace number re- market week and the [feb. 21 to 23] curve tailing for $58 and a jacquard style priced show in new York.”

10 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Innerwear Natori Adds Diffusion Label Israel’s Seamless Specialist Tefron By Karyn Monget A signature Gets a Lifeline and New Chief Exec THE NATOrI CO. WILL UNVEIL A BrAND TODAY CALLED embroidered By Jessica Steinberg N Natori. robe and The diffusion line of sleepwear, set for a fall retail launch, will gown by JERUSALEM — After financial uncertainty, seamless apparel and textile be distributed to department and specialty stores that sell the Josie N Natori. manufacturer Tefron has signed a memorandum of understanding Natori, Natori and Josie collections, said president and chief execu- with its principal lenders to extend and expand its line of credit. tive officer Josie Natori. The N Natori brand will be expanded into The company has also hired industry veteran Amit Meridor as its the home accessories arena in March, and discussions with retailers new chief executive officer. at this week’s intimates market will set a Controlled by First Israel Mezzanine Investors Fund and Mivtach launch date for a foundations line, which Shamir Holdings Ltd., Tefron had received a three-week extension will retail for less than $50. of credit until the end of December from Israel’s three largest banks “We needed to round out our portfolio and in order to stay in business. The lenders, Bank Hapoalim, Bank iannaccone reach out to a wider audience with a collec- Leumi Le-Israel and Discount Bank, provided Tefron with $29 mil- tion that has a look of luxury and the Natori lion in credit at the end of September.

thoma S aesthetic, but at a more accessible price,” Tefron’s troubles date to last year, with a $23.5 million revenue Natori said. “It makes good business sense be- loss of orders from Victoria’s cause the mind-set of many consumers today Secret, one of its largest and

photoS by is different. We are focusing on key items, longest-standing customers, prices, silhouettes, colors and fabrics.” which decided to move some We have removed “It also will allow the Natori name to ex- production to India. Tefron pand into more doors of existing accounts,” ended up reporting an $8.3 mil- “the last element of said the designer, noting the N Natori label lion net loss for the third quar- is aimed at B doors for greater exposure. ter of 2009 and 45 percent loss doubt about Tefron’s The brand will retail from $48 for a knit in revenues to $21 million. chemise to $120 for embroidered long kimonos, The agreement, signed financial picture. with the core price range averaging between with Banks Leumi, Discount $68 and $88. Styles include long and short caf- and Hapoalim, offers the con- — Jacob Gelbard,” Tefron tans, pajama sets, chemises, robes and long tinuation of the current $28.95 slip gowns. Fabrics include polyester blends million line of credit and adds $1.8 million for a total of $30.75 mil- An Asian-inspired print. with rayon and spandex and charmeuse. lion. It also calls for a minimum addition of $4 million in equity Solid, bright colors underscore the collection investment, which the company’s major shareholders have commit- with Asian-inspired signature prints, lace trims and embroideries. ted to making. A first-year wholesale sales projection for N Natori sleepwear “We have removed the last element of doubt about Tefron’s financial was not available, but the collection could generate $5 million, ac- picture,” said company chairman Jacob Gelbard. “This closes the chap- cording to industry estimates. In other areas, Natori said the com- ter on what has clearly been a challenging month for our company.” pany will mail several thousand color look books of Natori under- Meridor succeeds Adi Livneh, who left the company in garments for the first time that retailers can use as marketing and November. He has 15 years in the textile industry, working for merchandising tools to increase sales. Natori foundations are pro- NILIT Fibers Ltd., an Israeli manufacturer of high-quality yarn duced under license by Dana-Co. and fibers. Meridor also has extensive managerial experience in business development and company turnaround programs, and worked closely with Tefron and other seamless garment produc- ers at NILIT. Tefron became a leader in seamless apparel manufacturing tech- nology after investing more than $100 million in machinery. The company has long had a roster of well-known brands, including Patagonia, Victoria’s Secret, Calvin Klein and Lululemon Athletica. It was a key player in Nike’s 2008 marketing plan before the Beijing Summer Olympics, as the manufacturer behind its NikePro seam- less garments. The New York Stock Exchange-traded company started out man- ufacturing underwear for the Israeli army in the Seventies, and used technology and vertical production to revolutionize its textile business, eventually outsourcing and establishing manufacturing facilities in Israel, Honduras, Jordan and the U.S. INVISTA APPAREL : INNOVATIONS IN THE MAKING

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LYCRA® is a trademark of INVISTA. ©2010 INVISTA. 12 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Opens in Dubai Continued from page one The Bloomingdale’s stores cost 270 close tabs on the Dubai stores, located in Bloomingdale’s in million dirham, or about $74 million The Dubai Mall, one of the world’s largest The Dubai Mall. U.S. They were designed by Callison shopping centers. “We envision a monthly Architecture Inc and RYA Studio communication — at least,” he said. with direction from Jack Hruska, Other American retailers — includ- Bloomingdale’s executive vice president ing Saks Inc., Gap Inc., Abercrombie & of creative services. They have a total Fitch Co., Tiffany & Co., Wal-Mart Stores of 470 employees with 40 nationalities Inc. and Brooks Brothers — are further represented so better service can be ex- along with their international strategies. tended to the expected influx of tourists While Bloomingdale’s has been con- from around the world, and Dubai’s own templating additional overseas stores, international makeup. scouting locations in China, Kuwait and Among Bloomingdale’s Dubai more in- elsewhere, there’s no urgency to push novative elements: the agenda, particularly since much of • The “street of shops” in the home the world’s economy has gone sour, and store, with a fountain in the center. the company already has a lot on its • A three-story glass “drum” hous- plate. Bloomingdale’s is opening its first ing handbags on the first floor, women’s four fashion outlets this year, as well as denim on two and men’s denim on three. a store in Santa Monica, Calif., and sees It lights up at night and becomes a beacon more domestic expansion possibilities in for the mall. the Pacific Northwest and Texas. • An upscale 10,000-square-foot kids Bloomingdale’s Dubai stores — a department with Armani, D&G, Ralph 146,000-square-foot men’s and women’s Lauren, and interactive games, rides and apparel and accessories unit and a toy machines. 54,000-square-foot home unit — will go • Shop-in-shops for YSL, Gucci, through a few seasons or more before Bottega Veneta, Jimmy Choo, Balenciaga, there’s any decision on other foreign Coach and Armani Collezioni. sites. “We are in no rush to make a deter- • A fragrance hall clad in beveled mination,” Gould said. “We are not run- mirror. ning around anywhere looking. But we • The largest designer footwear de- are always open to listening. We want to partment in the region, at more than 9,400 make this [Dubai] work. We want to learn square feet. from this. We are here for the long term. The 7,000-square-foot “street of shops” It’s not a 100-yard dash. This is a mara- will include about a dozen boutiques, thon. We will be successful. Together each 400 to 500 square feet. There will [with Al Tayer] we have great anticipa- be New York New York for T-shirts, hats, tion of the things that we can do. The photos and keepsakes; the first Magnolia only question is the degree of success Bakery in the Middle East; a com- that we have.” bined Rizzoli and Assouline book store; Gould stressed there were two top pri- Bloomies Ice Cream, and Bazaar for new orities for Dubai: getting the right partner and vintage Arabic home accessories. for a market new to Bloomingdale’s and Overall, “There is no home store at insuring the retailer’s DNA gets exported. this level in terms of upscale price points Marvin Traub, the former Bloomingdale’s and mix of merchandise,” El Khatib said. chairman and now an industry consultant, “All categories are under one roof.” was instrumental in bringing the two par- While the stores are adorned with ties together. hand-blown chandeliers, Arabian car- “The stores are inspired by 59th pet designs and wall treatments for Street, with Arabian influences tenderly a warm, homey feel, the signature cushioned throughout. There is a mod- Bloomingdale’s black trim and black and ern, contemporary feel to these stores,” white checkerboard marble floors have said Shireen El Khatib, ceo of Al Tayer been retained. The stores will also have Insignia, the luxury arm of the Al Tayer Bloomingdale’s signature brown shop- Group. “We have insured that the Dubai ping bags, packaging, logos, stationery Bloomingdale’s stores will encapsulate a and even business cards. world-class retail experience including “There is no confusion — the iconogra- the best international brands, a contem- Shireen El Khatib, phy is clearly Bloomingdale’s,” said Tony porary store ambience and excellence in ceo of Al Tayer Spring, Bloomingdale’s president. He customer service.” Insignia. said “a myriad” of Al Tayer personnel in- While the merchandising of the stores cluding merchants, financial and human was orchestrated by Al Tayer, it’s largely resource executives have been guided within the Bloomingdale’s matrix, Gould through Bloomingdale’s stores around the said. Al Tayer did add several resourc- U.S. to be educated about the business. es not sold at any U.S. Bloomingdale’s “We have given them as much as possible, stores, raising chances one day the retail- without handcuffing them.” er could sell some of those in America. Al Tayer has also been educated on In Dubai, Bloomingdale’s will be selling “all of our merchandising standards, our for the first time Illamasqua and Kanebo presentation standards and marketing on the beauty floor; Asprey, Boucheron, strategies,” said Hruska. “There will be H. Stern and Gucci in fine jewelry; Yves regular discussions and reviews of the Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga and marketing and visual standards.” Lana Marks in handbags and accesso- Service will be at a premium, with ries; Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, Gucci, lavish personal shopping departments, YSL, Prabal Gurung and Reem Acra an interior design service, a gift registry, in ready-to-wear; Gucci, Thomas Pink, concierge, Shine grooming salons for men Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, YSL and and women, a demonstration kitchen, as Gucci in men’s, and Armani, Dolce & well as an Elixir juice bar and a Bloomies Gabbana Junior, GF Ferré and Moschino Coffee bar. There’s no way around it. “It is in children’s. MOHAMED SOMJI very important in this part of the world,” El In addition, “We are bringing a lot of Khatib said. “People like to feel pampered. American brands to Dubai,” Gould noted. We are moving away from the department If the store proves successful, he PHOTOS BY store ambience so people feel like they are said, “It’s an opportunity to leverage in a boutique. The men’s and women’s per- Bloomingdale’s to other international locations and bring brands into our U.S. stores. sonal shopping spaces are lavish. Here, customers are used to shopping in boutiques.” We think that what we are doing in combination with Al Tayer can have enormous Asked how the Bloomingdale’s assortment was tweaked for the Middle East, El positive impact on our U.S. stores. This has to work. If it doesn’t, it’s a blemish on the Khatib replied, “Fashion is more embellished, less classic, and more designer-orient- Bloomingdale’s name. It’s very important.” ed with less on the contemporary side. We also have an exotic leather shop. There is Under the licensed agreement, Al Tayer owns and operates the store, pays a fee to no coat department but certain sportswear brands will display a few coats, maybe two Bloomingdale’s, plus a percentage of sales. Al Tayer has established separate man- or three styles in a collection. And there are lots of size 38 and 36,” which are Italian agement teams for the two stores. Based in Dubai, which is part of the United Arab sizes equivalent to fours and twos in America. Emirates, Al Tayer operates in 12 countries and is involved in the automotive, con- Still, Bloomingdale’s will be challenged by Dubai’s economy which has been hurt tracting, distribution, publishing and retail sectors. Insignia operates 80 stores in the by tumbling real estate values, credit issues, stalled projects and debt burdens. El region, including the largest Harvey Nichols outside the United Kingdom at the Mall Khatib nonetheless remains optimistic: “Business is beginning to pick up. January of the Emirates in Dubai. was a good start to the year.” WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 13 WWD.COM Accessories Report Ivanka Trump Sets Aggressive Goals, Naturally By Sophia Chabbott good value and the ability to interest and motivate the consumers to shop,” said hansen, who noted that Ivanka Trump wanTs To share her sTyle wITh Trump’s 700,000 followers on Twitter, along with Tv the world. appearances and media attention, are key assets. True to the Trump “think big” tradition, she has set a goal of recently, Trump tweeted about her favorite tripling sales of her namesake fine jewelry firm by going global. earrings, which retail at $750, and the store has Ivanka Trump has plans to roll out to 30 top-tier indepen- had trouble restocking because of the demand dent guild jewelers in the u.s. also under consideration are that followed. 10 locations in asia and the middle east — a combina- hansen has spent the last several months de- tion of in-store boutiques and stand-alone shops veloping and growing the brand’s collections and with partners or franchisers. Trump has one bou- adding styles to offer a more diverse price range. tique on madison avenue in new york. Initial The median price has gone to $4,000 from $10,000. plans for a las vegas store were canceled The firm will keep its more expensive styles, such after the recession began. as pavé diamond spherical necklaces and elabo- The multitasking real estate executive, rate diamond collars that can go from $100,000 reality Tv personality, author and now foot- to $2 million, but has also added 65 styles, 20 of wear designer — through a deal with marc which will retail for less than $2,000. hansen Fisher Footwear — has tapped chief execu- has focused on offering pieces in the $450 to $900 tive officer andrea hansen to spearhead the New jewelry styles range, a sweet spot for Trump’s target of self-pur- company’s international expansion and its by Trump. chasing women. such styles include small hanging foray into wholesale distribution. The jewelry earrings with diamond accents, silk cord bracelets firm was founded in 2007 through a partnership with the firm’s signature oval in gold, and rose gold with Trump and Dynamic Diamond Corp. and is and rock crystal pieces that echo the line’s far more said to have had $5 million in sales in 2009. expensive mixed-cut diamond hoops. Trump described her brand’s expansion as “quick but ultimately, there are plans to grow the brand prudent.” portfolio to include ladies’ watches, eyewear, fra- “everything has to be scalable from an economic grance, tabletop and accessories. There also is the perspective, but each venture that I get involved in potential to focus on other gemstones in the jew- also needs to reinforce, rather than undermine, elry collection, as opposed to simply diamonds. the larger Trump brand,” she said. Trump said the uniting factor in what she does In the u.s., the company is approaching high- — from real estate to fine jewelry — is luxury. end boutiques in cities such as phoenix and “There are actually many similarities be- los angeles. In asia, there are talks of enter- Ivanka tween the businesses,” she said. “luxury takes ing seoul, hong kong, Beijing and shanghai. Trump many forms...but many of the quality priorities In the middle east, there are plans to enter the and branding considerations are similar. It is also markets in Dubai and abu Dhabi. There are also great to have a real estate background that I can talks to go into Istanbul, where the Trump real apply to my jewelry company as we expand and look estate organization is developing a property. for more retail outlets. “Ivanka offers the industry the most important as- “Developing a cohesive brand identity is never easy and requires tremendous work, sets and characteristics retailers must demand of their thought and discipline,” Trump said. “with so many talented jewelers out there, the brands now: relevance, a clear and original point of view, biggest challenge we had was reinventing important jewelry and making it our own.” 14 WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more Retail Ends Jan. Down 3.3% WEEKLY stoCKs financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. 52-WEEK VoLumE Amt 52-WEEK VoLumE Amt By Evan Clark and Arnold J. Karr High Low Companies p/E Last Change High Low Companies p/E Last Change Better-than-expected readings on fourth- 42.31 16.95 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 130.0 19308360 31.54 1.56 8.00 2.01 Jaclyn (JCLY) - 300 7.00 0.50 quarter economic growth and January consumer sen- 17.76 8.50 Acadia (AKR) 32.1 1319386 15.93 -0.54 1.85 0.22 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 32.4 1370403 1.60 -0.05 timent drove up retail stocks as much as 1.6 percent 3.78 0.43 Aeffe * (AEF:MI) - 377529 0.49 0.01 19.74 2.39 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 7097369 14.44 -1.04 friday, but a late-day sell-off left the sector with a de- 44.85 20.28 Aeropostale (ARO) 11.2 9242878 32.89 -1.19 48.92 19.61 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 11.8 1158642 41.91 -1.56 cline for the day. 30.04 20.47 Alberto Culver (ACV) 23.7 2822449 28.39 -0.40 12.13 4.89 Kenneth Cole (KCP) - 280457 10.24 -0.48 the s&p retail index slipped 0.2 percent friday to 6.97 1.20 American Apparel (APP) 285.0 1091108 2.83 -0.41 16.78 6.33 Kimco Realty (KIM) - 33115400 12.62 -0.42 close at 397.48. retail stocks rose 0.5 percent for the 19.86 8.31 American Eagle (AEO) 23.1 15936688 15.89 -0.23 60.89 32.50 Kohl’s (KSS) 17.2 20739014 50.37 -0.08 week, but fell 3.3 percent during the month. 17.50 2.41 Ann Taylor (ANN) - 9178729 12.56 0.73 11.38 6.44 K-Swiss (KSWS) - 360200 9.08 -0.16 the dow Jones industrial average fell 0.5 percent 508.50 112.50 Asos * (ASC:L) 31.1 2382266 432.00 -5.25 15.09 7.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 19.4 30257 13.58 0.13 on friday, and was off 1 percent for the week and 3.5 percent in January. 36.39 14.40 Avon (AVP) 23.0 17275354 30.14 -1.70 20.90 5.98 Limited Brands (LTD) 56.5 24634427 19.02 0.64 the commerce department said the u.s. economy 9.50 4.59 Bebe (BEBE) - 2688294 6.18 0.08 7.88 1.61 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 7767862 4.87 -0.22 grew at an annual rate of 5.7 percent in the fourth 56.72 28.70 Beiersdorf * (BEI:GR) 21.5 2838697 42.34 -0.29 3.98 0.47 LJ Intl. (JADE) - 531735 2.24 -0.13 quarter, well ahead of the 4.8 percent economists fore- 13.30 4.30 Benetton Group * (BEN:MI) 8.5 2703386 6.25 -0.13 99.97 46.00 L’Oréal * (OR:PA) 25.1 3894723 76.45 -0.67 cast. and the reuters/university of Michigan surveys 1.80 0.20 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) - 7400 0.82 -0.10 32.95 4.33 Lululemon (LULU) 51.5 3489405 28.24 -1.80 of consumers index of consumer confidence hit a two- 39.59 27.26 BJs (BJ) 14.3 4376048 33.79 0.39 26.66 9.41 Luxottica * (LUX:MI) 27.5 5733789 18.96 0.16 year high of 74.4 percent this month, ahead of the 73 0.09 0.02 Blue (BLHI) - 2000 0.03 0.00 89.36 38.10 LVMH * (MC:PA) 20.5 6127620 79.07 1.30 percent Wall street was expecting. 2.65 0.32 Bluefly (BFLY) - 79655 2.15 -0.20 38.22 5.45 Macerich (MAC) 12.9 8035014 30.85 -0.70 however, shoppers are expected to stay conserva- 14.47 1.00 Bon-Ton (BONT) - 472585 8.75 -0.50 20.84 6.27 Macy’s Inc. (M) - 55747570 15.93 0.36 tive in their buying habits. 13.07 2.04 Brown Shoe (BWS) - 1385373 12.25 -0.12 17.23 7.39 Maidenform (MFB) 11.2 530329 14.95 -0.14 Major overseas markets declined for both the week and the month, led by china’s sse composite index, 39.09 20.54 Buckle (BKE) 11.8 1885334 30.34 -0.16 669.00 191.90 Marks & Spencer * (MKS:L) 10.9 39409110 348.80 0.80 which dropped 4.5 percent and 8.8 percent, respec- 11.48 2.76 Bulgari * (BUL:MI) - 18042216 5.95 -0.18 27.67 9.38 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 16.2 2772197 20.15 -0.48 tively, on concerns about the government’s efforts to 686.50 154.75 Burberry * (BRBY:L) - 11077981 615.00 0.00 15.56 4.65 Movado (MOV) - 626290 10.93 -0.51 rein in lending. 17.73 5.41 Cabela’s (CAB) 13.1 3008204 16.12 -0.29 22.80 12.26 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 16.1 5535180 20.20 -0.47 among the 172 stocks monitored by WWd, 68 rose 5.88 1.43 Caché (CACH) - 185248 4.20 0.01 6.11 1.79 New York & Co. (NWY) - 776449 3.60 0.09 last week, seven were unchanged and 97 were down. 54.20 22.06 Carrefour * (CA:PA) 51.7 12939132 35.34 -0.33 0.41 0.05 NexCen (NEXC) - 390868 0.10 -0.02 29.49 13.86 Carter (CRI) 14.5 3891790 25.86 0.35 66.62 38.24 Nike (NKE) 21.2 12061604 63.75 0.77 3.78 0.26 Casual Male (CMRG) - 456413 2.80 -0.18 0.75 0.02 Nitches (NICH) - 6562 0.09 0.02 Saks, Neimans Settle Fur Suit 23.17 12.76 Cato (CATO) 16.7 632558 20.45 -0.27 39.01 11.19 Nordstrom (JWN) 22.6 12334721 34.54 0.40 11.17 1.92 CBL (CBL) 202.0 7714172 10.00 -0.16 22.98 8.15 Orchids Paper (TIS) 9.8 486783 18.43 0.43 By Matthew Lynch 6.20 2.05 CCA (CAW) 24.1 49246 5.50 -0.06 25.62 3.14 Oxford (OXM) - 533869 17.84 -0.27 saks inc. and neiMan Marcus inc. said 1.85 0.23 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 138090 1.20 -0.12 7.25 1.08 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) - 2293872 3.52 -0.12 friday they resolved a lawsuit brought by the humane 6.68 0.45 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 2844180 5.81 0.21 2.94 0.59 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 356440 1.70 -0.12 society of the u.s. over mislabeled fur. 93.45 50.10 Chattem (CHTT) 21.6 2927684 93.46 0.20 10.47 2.20 Penn Real Estate (PEI) - 1913792 8.96 -0.15 the animal rights group named the two luxury 24.43 11.29 Cherokee (CHKE) 12.2 363420 16.05 -0.58 19.30 3.31 Perry Ellis (PERY) - 535446 16.03 1.31 retailers as defendants in a consumer advocacy com- 15.43 3.40 Chico’s (CHS) 210.8 10525741 12.77 -0.03 44.92 14.09 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 21.6 3793131 39.29 -2.22 plaint filed in Washington, d.c., superior court in 37.68 17.09 Children’s Place (PLCE) 10.0 2184432 31.80 -0.61 0.98 0.11 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 15086 0.50 -0.08 2008. the suit alleged the companies had improperly 9.02 3.25 Christopher & Banks (CBK) - 750040 6.65 -0.17 86.97 31.64 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 20.4 4611248 82.00 -0.04 labeled raccoon dog fur as “faux” or misidentified its 30.85 18.09 Cintas (CTAS) 20.5 7670931 25.11 -0.14 141.50 31.06 PPR * (PP:PA) 29.6 1975638 88.45 0.68 source animal on labels or advertisements. Lord & taylor settled its portion of the suit in december and 31.77 9.40 Citi Trends (CTRN) 22.6 1052818 31.13 0.12 21.00 13.76 PriceSmart (PSMT) 14.0 278724 20.01 0.00 andrew Marc settled in March. Macy’s inc. is now the 38.65 11.41 Coach (COH) 17.4 29070971 34.88 0.84 3.83 0.91 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 3804635 2.02 -0.05 sole remaining defendant in the case. 9.20 1.42 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) - 4729105 4.46 -0.11 9.20 5.03 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 11.9 73649 8.85 0.09 saks inc. and the humane society said friday they 87.39 54.51 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 19.5 16194942 80.03 -0.68 11.97 3.56 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 18.8 886344 9.52 0.26 had reached a settlement requiring stricter labeling 23.82 7.11 Collective Brands (PSS) - 3994245 19.68 0.00 41.71 20.72 Regency Centers (REG) 344.5 5639544 33.49 -1.30 standards. in addition, the retailer agreed to change its 46.35 24.63 Columbia Sportswear (COLM) 22.0 1411189 41.38 0.51 9.66 1.45 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 776559 8.28 0.28 advertising policies and endorse federal legislation de- 61.25 38.17 Costco (COST) 23.1 18443628 57.43 0.36 19.87 2.30 Revlon (REV) 16.7 901206 15.41 0.21 signed to end the sale of fur-trimmed garments without 8.20 1.00 Crocs (CROX) - 15182199 7.35 0.14 83.00 14.18 Richemont * (CFR:VX) 58.6 17829335 36.20 1.22 total sourcing disclosure, the humane society said. 0.20 0.03 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 2785 0.12 0.00 50.50 28.08 Ross Stores (ROST) 14.7 15178592 45.93 2.10 a saks spokeswoman said the settlement was “fair.” neiman Marcus, meanwhile, has consented to a 113.10 37.24 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 14.8 1807574 98.17 -2.51 32.82 22.26 Rue21 (RUE) - 484570 28.03 -0.18 judgment against it, according to court documents. 2.88 1.38 Delia’s (DLIA) 4.2 241239 1.79 0.03 3.72 0.28 Safilo * (SFL:MI) - 718603 0.56 -0.01 the judgment, which awaits final approval from the 12.81 3.38 Delta Apparel (DLA) 12.9 28275 12.72 0.92 7.72 1.50 Saks (SKS) - 15946607 6.44 -0.17 court, finds the retailer violated the d.c. consumer 24.20 4.42 Destination Maternity (DEST) - 220520 24.33 4.04 9.03 3.71 Sally Beauty (SBH) 15.4 3103182 8.34 -0.45 protection procedures act, calls for it to pay $25,000 10.66 1.38 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 19525115 8.25 -0.45 106.06 34.27 Sears (SHLD) - 8450715 93.28 -5.02 to the humane society and bars it from falsely adver- 20.17 2.96 Dillard’s (DDS) - 3259192 16.56 0.01 83.82 24.27 Simon Property Group (SPG) 51.9 16991250 72.00 1.41 tising the two coats at issue in the lawsuit. humane 24.90 21.75 Dollar General (DG) 41.1 927626 23.49 0.15 31.62 5.20 Skechers (SKX) 201.6 3072488 28.06 -1.29 society chief counsel Jonathon Lovvorn said the group 25.74 8.44 Dress Barn (DBRN) 21.3 3859155 23.54 -0.43 0.90 0.13 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 14100 0.60 0.15 expects a judge’s approval “any day.” 27.44 6.66 DSW (DSW) 32.3 1105666 24.10 0.17 14.85 5.49 Stage Stores (SSI) 18.6 1041657 12.92 0.22 a spokeswoman for neiman Marcus confirmed res- 19.14 7.77 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 59.6 37820 12.19 -1.48 13.75 1.00 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 933740 7.90 -1.06 olution of the suit but had no further comment. Macy’s did not return a call seeking comment. 17.27 3.93 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 70.0 1811621 15.52 -0.55 45.48 13.42 Steve Madden (SHOO) 17.0 1026609 40.14 0.36 53.98 19.81 Estée Lauder (EL) 34.0 11646025 52.52 -0.65 76.50 23.05 Swatch Group * (UHRN:SW) 4.0 638405 53.60 0.40 35.00 25.34 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.3 12817708 30.88 0.52 8.76 4.22 Syms (SYMS) 8.1 34448 7.82 -0.14 13.07 3.77 Finish Line (FINL) 185.7 3028985 11.09 -0.38 12.00 1.86 Talbots (TLB) - 8295399 11.26 0.66 WEEKLY 36.61 11.00 Fossil (FOSL) 19.4 1839476 32.65 -1.62 4.61 1.35 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 33619 2.91 -0.15 WWD 2.54 0.12 Frederick’s of Hollywood (FOH) - 39020 1.24 -0.07 4.08 1.55 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 13.5 53112 3.70 -0.20 CHANGE 14.85 8.52 Freds (FRED) 19.7 938267 10.03 -0.10 41.78 24.78 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 25.3 3291004 38.30 0.83 ENDING 196.75 27.50 French Connection * (FCCN:L) - 216388 39.00 3.50 52.46 25.00 Target (TGT) 18.1 50600711 51.27 0.89 ( JAN. 29 ) INDEX % 23.36 9.56 Gap (GPS) 13.4 39559939 19.08 0.22 38.63 12.43 Taubman (TCO) - 2875673 31.66 -0.83 29.71 11.31 Genesco (GCO) 20.7 1139853 23.58 -1.12 6.35 2.70 Tefron (TFRFF) - 0 3.85 0.00 Gainers Change ComposItE 22.25 3.24 G-III Apparel (GIII) - 1318582 17.41 -0.22 47.02 16.70 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 32.7 10428797 40.61 -0.18 Sport-Haley 32.74 916.20 25.33 5.66 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 27.2 1413060 21.44 -0.26 18.60 8.75 Timberland (TBL) 20.8 1575586 17.20 0.30 Destination Maternity 19.91 4.51 0.93 Glimcher (GRT) - 1945795 3.22 -0.21 40.64 19.19 TJX Cos. (TJX) 15.3 22923886 38.01 1.27 Inter Parfums 10.46 27.53 15.32 G&K (GKSR) - 505346 25.00 0.24 64.48 25.23 Tod’s * (TOD:IM) 17.1 826405 47.67 -3.72 French Connection * 9.86 46.39 12.90 Guess (GES) 18.1 3165617 39.71 0.00 28.90 7.80 True Religion (TRLG) 10.3 1509279 19.31 -0.54 52.31 14.02 Gymboree (GYMB) 11.6 3595358 39.01 -0.73 33.31 11.94 Under Armour (UA) 32.8 5672591 25.40 -1.23 Hennes & Mauritz * 9.10 5.55 1.50 Hampshire (HAMP) - 1400 3.50 0.20 4.10 0.44 Unifi (UFI) - 444970 3.34 0.05 26.61 5.14 Hanesbrands (HBI) 31.7 4915657 22.97 0.09 32.41 16.95 Unilever (UL) - 4791924 30.52 -0.40 Decliners Change 440.20 239.50 Hennes & Mauritz * (HMB:ST) 22.1 20566654 437.50 36.50 36.23 13.63 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 28.5 17407342 31.57 0.52 NexCen -16.67 131.89 59.42 Hermès * (RMS:PA) 37.3 411816 99.65 4.26 79.79 46.06 VF Corp. (VFC) 15.8 3020438 72.03 -0.41 Phoenix Footwear -13.79 21.21 3.33 HSN (HSNI) - 2404485 19.14 0.52 19.74 6.63 Volcom (VLCM) 40.7 744349 15.77 0.10 American Apparel -12.65 13.87 5.25 Hot Topic (HOTT) 13.8 2544911 5.75 -0.05 55.20 46.25 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.2 81744288 53.43 0.49 Stein Mart -11.83 22.28 13.23 IAC Interactive (IACI) 10.4 8243710 20.08 -0.41 47.07 16.28 Warnaco (WRC) 27.2 3531077 38.72 -3.41 +0.65 18.30 6.73 Iconix (ICON) 11.5 3588390 12.62 0.34 23.00 7.96 Weingarten (WRI) 35.7 7239243 18.67 -1.23 Duckwall-Alco -10.83 53.90 23.29 Inditex * (ITX:MC) 22.9 7772279 45.64 1.24 4.60 2.02 Wet Seal (WTSLA) 21.2 3806289 3.35 -0.21 * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency 13.79 3.50 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 18.2 513380 13.31 1.26 32.17 20.11 Weyco (WEYS) 22.5 56122 22.56 -0.02 of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock 1.96 0.00 IT Holding * (ITH:MI) - 0 0.18 0.00 28.31 0.04 Wolverine (WWW) 19.0 1200938 26.45 0.25 Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch 46.64 9.01 J. Crew (JCG) 36.0 5155168 39.21 -0.23 8.51 0.89 Zale (ZLC) - 4562928 2.18 -0.17 Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quot- 37.21 13.71 J.C. Penney (JCP) 21.2 22171219 24.83 -0.44 17.43 5.70 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 59.5 668727 12.73 -0.16 ed in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, MONDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2010 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

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