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PHOTO BY DANIEL GARRIGA; MODEL: REID P./RED; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY ANNA BERNABE FOR CLINIQUE; STYLED BY ALEX BADIA belt and Jan Leslie tiebar.belt andJanLeslie For more, seepages 6and7. Veneta tie, Calvin Klein Collection pants, a Louis Vuitton Here, a Dior Homme cotton shirt worn with a Bottega and pastel-thin stripesto tonal multicoloredofferings. pattern in everything from black-and-white micro pinstripes safety. Nevertheless, forfall,shirtmakers revisitedthe the view of bankers lately, even good for one’s personal seem an appropriate dress code these days — or, given Dressing in a traditional fancy banking shirt might not Stripe It Up headline “Welcome Mr. Prez.” Gordon Brownandhiswife,Sarah,the the Obamas waving alongside Prime Minister newspaper’s cover carried a full-page photo of Standard inaheadlineWednesday. The mighty Michelle,”roaredLondon’sEvening British pressoohingandaahing. night, MichelleObamahadthefamouslyfickle Jason Wu chartreusesheathdressonTuesday moment shesteppedoffAirForce Oneinher that officiallybeganWednesday. From the Kennedy during the Obamas visit to the capital wowed the Brits like no other since Jacqueline American fashion taste, America’s First Lady LONDON By WWDStaff All ’Round London Town U.S. First Lady Is a Hit Going Mad for Michelle: “A fromthe razzledazzlingperformance With herplaintalk,pearlnecklaceandall- W Sportswear/Men’s — Britain hascaughtMichelle-O-mania. Women’s Newspaper Daily •April2,2009$3.00 Wear •TheRetailers’ Daily w See begin, page4. opening celebrations EYE: Runway,” page11. battle over“Project last tothelegal MEDIA: s

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WWDThursDSportswearay FASHION 6 Plaids have dominated men’s shirts in recent ™ seasons, but for fall designers are discarding the trend in favor of the updated stripe. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based GENERAL on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated 1 With her plain talk, pearl necklace and all-American fashion taste, America’s First Lady wowed the Brits like no other since Jacqueline Kennedy. DON’T BE FOOLED! Bloomingdale’s held its first Designer Collections Reading the Care and Content Labels Makes Sense 5 Signature event to lure shoppers to the fourth floor of its New York flagship and get them to buy. These days, the consumer who does not check Keyes, Director of Product Standards at Cotton 8 DENIM: “Project Runway” castoff Kevin Christiana the fabric care and content labels when shopping Incorporated. “Dry cleaning can be expensive, so knows he has a short window to work in for apparel might as well be wearing a “Kick Me” garments intended to be worn frequently would launching his new brand, Christiana Zinn. sign on her back. likely best be chosen for home care.” 10 BEAT: Nigo, the Japanese designer behind Though a minority of younger women routinely When it comes to garment care, most women streetwear line A Bathing Ape, is stepping down checks the care label, that percentage significantly prefer to take their clothing into their own hands, as president and director of the brand he founded. increases among women as they mature.When literally. Seventy eight percent of female respon- 12 MEN’S: Price really does matter today when it asked by the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Mon- dents report to the Monitor survey that if a garment comes to men’s tailored clothing, from moderate itor™ survey, only 20% of female respondents needs pressing, they iron it at home, while 16% chains to the higher-end shops and labels. aged 13 to 24 said that they usually or always check wore the garment wrinkled, and a mere 6% sent it labels, compared to 38% aged to the dry cleaners. EYE 25 to 34, 50% aged 35 to 55 “Care and content labels are important While Keyes offers some 4 The arrival of Topshop/Topman this week has to ensure that a consumer is buying what A look from sent New Yorkers into a frenzy, eager to get their and 71% aged 56 to 70. sage advice regarding label Christiana Zinn. In today’s challenging she wants, and that her clothing can be consulting, 41% of female hands on the label’s cheap and cheeky product. economy, reading the care and cared for in the appropriate manner.” respondents still report that Classified Advertisements...... 19 To e-mail reporTers and ediTors aT WWd, The address is content label is a lesson best – Patricia Pao, The Pao Principle they typically note the laun- learned early so that women dering instructions on gar- [email protected], using The individual’s name. WWD IS A ReGISteReD tRADeMARK oF ADVANCe MAGAZINe PUBLISHeRS INC. CoPYRIGHt ©2009 can squeeze the most from their wardrobe dollars, ments only after they have worn them. For the FAIRCHILD FASHIoN GRoU P. ALL RIGHtS ReSeRVeD. PRINteD IN tHe U.S.A. attests Patricia Pao, founder of The Pao Principle, most part, however, failing to consult the label does VOLUME 197, NO. 69. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June a retail consultancy. “Women are spending less on not present a problem for women or for retailers. and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division clothing for themselves these days. As a result, they According to Monitor data, a mere 9% of clothing of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. need their clothes to last longer. Care and content returns were garment care related, with shrinking Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage labels are important to ensure that a consumer is and fading accounting for the greatest share of paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian buying what she wants and that her clothing can be complaints. addresses to: P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 PoStMASteR: SeND ADDReSS CHANGeS cared for in the appropriate manner,” she says. “Consulting the care label removes the guess- to WoMeN’S WeAR DAILY, P. o. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FoR SUBSCRIPtIoNS, ADDReSS CHANGeS, ADJUStMeNtS, oR BACK ISSUe INQUIRIeS: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA When women are checking labels, they tend to work from the cleaning process, and increases the 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed be more interested in what a garment is made of likelihood that the consumer will get the best life on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. versus who made it. Fifty- eight percent of female from her clothing,” stresses Keyes from Cotton For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online respondents in 2008 told the Monitor survey that Incorporated. “A label can tell you at what tem- at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services they prefer to know fiber content over brand perature the wash water should be and possibly that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please name (42%). When the washing machine advise us at P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT Women Who Check Fabric Content RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, women are con- setting to use, such UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR cerned with the con- Labels Before Buying Apparel as ‘medium,’ ‘per- ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY tent, there is one fiber manent press,’ or WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE that tends to resonate Always/Usually Sometimes/Never ‘gentle.’” ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. most soundly with 80% With the economy them: more than two 70% still in turmoil, DAILY On Wall Street, there out of three female 60% women increasingly respondents report rely on planning their “ to the Monitor that 50% wardrobe purchases QUote is a sensitivity to not cotton is their favorite 40% in lieu of buying on looking too wealthy. If you’re a person fiber to wear. 30% impulse. In the fourth “Cotton performs 20% quarter of 2008, 63% that has had to lay off 10 employees, well, washes well, and of female respondents 10% given today’s more reported to the Mon- you can’t walk into the office looking casual lifestyles, it’s 0% itor survey that they not surprising that planned their typical like some sort of Brahmin. Total cotton comprises a 13-24 25-34 35-55 56-70 clothing purchases, ” majority of women’s wardrobes for their profes- up 6 percentage points from the same period a — Alan Flusser, on the trend in dress shirts. Page 15. sional, social and recreational pursuits,” observes year earlier. There appears to be a direct correla- CORRECTION Jeannine McShane, founder of Jeannine McShane tion between the propensity to plan purchases and Creative Design, a personalized gift service cur- checking care and content labels. According to the Bruno Frisoni and Amanda Brooks will host the launch of Roger Vivier’s latest collection on Monday. This was incorrect in a story rently debuting a line of cotton tees. “You have Monitor survey, female planners (53%) are more on page 4, Tuesday. cotton suiting, khakis, jeans, tees, woven shirts, likely than female impulse buyers (43%) to always polos, corduroy bottoms, fleece and lightweight or usually check care and content labels. sweaters that can take most women through all of “If there is anything that I can do to save money the needs of her day. Cotton garments clearly are when shopping for apparel in this economy, I am TODAY ON transitional, can be multi-purposed and cared for going to do it,” says Carly, a mother of two in New with little expense and have a lesser impact on the York. “I want to buy on sale, get natural fibers and environment.” be able to launder all of our clothing at home. “In this age of uncertainty, women want to know Planning ahead and checking the labels helps me where their ‘stuff’ comes from,” Pao adds. “There- achieve that. The more I know, the less I can be WWD fore, understanding the fabric content and origin is played for a fool.” .com extremely important.” Reading the label is also critical in under- This story is one in a series of articles based on find- ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ standing fabric care, as a garment’s maintenance • More images from the ultimately becomes a function of the overall cost tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these

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tefa Azzedine Alaïa cardigan. coat, arrive at Buckingham Palace. skirt onon Wednesday.Wednesday. S Obama Michelle Gets Royal Treatment in London Continued from page one vegetables from Sussex, Surrey and Kent, and Irish Even Britain’s Press Association — a wire service soda bread. that usually reports stories in a staid, neutral tone — The main course was slow-roasted shoulder of lamb melted in her wake. “Mrs. Obama looked dazzling in a from Wales accompanied by Jersey Royal potatoes, fol- sequined champagne cardigan paired with a mint pen- lowed by dessert of Bakewell tart and custard. Other cil skirt, both from American midmarket brand J. Crew,” G-20 spouses invited to the dinner included Margarita said one report Wednesday morning. Zavala, the wife of Mexican President Felipe Calderón; It added: “Mrs. Obama did not put a foot wrong in low- Sonsoles Espinosa, the opera-singer wife of the Spanish heeled animal skin print heels and her signature pearls.” prime minister; Laureen Harper, wife of the Canadian The Times of London’s fashion department’s prime minister, and Liu Yongqing, the wife of the Twitter site called Obama’s cardigan “spring incar- Chinese president. nate,” and told Brown — who was dressed in a navy But those ladies were clearly no sartorial compe- blue suit by London-based designer Britt Lintner — to tition for Obama, who wore the same Isabel Toledo “lighten up, love.” tuxedo tank dress to dinner she’d worn earlier to A Reuters blog carried the headline, “Michelle spar- Buckingham Palace — minus the black cardigan. The kles as hostess Sarah plays it safe,” and chided Brown First Lady will face dueling dresses at dawn in a few for her lack of sartorial confidence, which has never days, though, when she will meet French First Lady been a hallmark of British prime ministers’ wives to Carla Bruni-Sarkozy at the NATO 60th Anniversary begin with. Summit events in Strasbourg, France, and Kehl, Jenna Lyons, J. Crew’s creative director, obviously Germany. The Obamas then travel to Prague for a was pleased at the First Lady’s fashion choices. “The European Union Summit before ending their first topic of conversation is really the economy. It’s appro- European tour in Istanbul on Monday. priate and also sends a message that she is wearing Not that everything about the visit has been love-and- something from a brand that is approachable and known kisses. The Obamas were winning hearts, they — along by American consumers, and a brand that people can be with the other G-20 leaders — were causing serious a part of.” gridlock across town on Wednesday. The traffic, com- Lyons praised the First Lady’s fashion choices on her pounded with the chaos from various demonstrations in European trip so far. “She never looks stuffy, she looks the City and central London, brought parts of town to a modern and feminine,” she said. “It’s exciting to have a virtual standstill. “It was an absolute nightmare in the First Lady who isn’t all suited up and tightly coiffed.” West End and the City,” said a spokeswoman for one of Even Queen Elizabeth II caught the bug. Although the local courier services. the Obamas are not in Britain on a state visit, she The roads surrounding the Bank of England — the requested a private, informal meeting with the first site of a series of anticapitalist, antiwar and climate- couple at Buckingham Palace — marking the 12th U.S. change protests on Wednesday — were cordoned off by president she’s met during her reign, stretching back police. Some 4,000 protesters descended on the City, the to Dwight D. Eisenhower. Michelle Obama arrived for central financial district, for the demonstrations, and the visit wearing a Jason Wu black duchess satin opera Protesters outside the Bank of England and the page one riot police were deployed in some areas. coat over an Isabel Toledo silk satin crepe dress with headline of Le Figaro. On the retail front, the vast majority of stores sur- a black skirt and white bodice, and a black Azzedine rounding the Bank of England were closed Wednesday. Alaïa cardigan, her chic monochrome look a sharp straight-talking style, she chatted with the staff about A wall of police officers lined the entrance to the Royal contrast to the queen’s decidedly dowdy salmon pink her plans to install a beehive at the White House, a Exchange, the shopping arcade opposite the Bank of shift dress. perfect accompaniment to the vegetable garden she’s England that houses labels including Gucci, Hermès The British monarch, the Duke of Edinburgh and the planting: “We have a big lawn,” she joked, and hap- and YSL — all of which were closed. Retailers includ- Obamas met for about 20 minutes before the G-20 lead- pily quaffed a cup of tea — brewed by Sarah Brown. ing Agent Provocateur, Smythson, and Lulu Guinness ers and their spouses arrived for a cocktail party at the Later the Obamas briefly met Conservative Party lead- had even boarded up their windows. Palace — during which Michelle Obama chatted with er David Cameron and his wife, Samantha, who also The atmosphere in front of the Bank of England was Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall — ahead of a dinner at is creative director of British stationery and leather scary at times, with some protesters brandishing make- Downing Street hosted by Sarah Brown. Brown, maybe goods brand Smythson. shift horses’ heads and skulls, as drums pounded and hearing the criticism, made an effort, donning a Graeme On Wednesday night, the First Lady joined Brown for the crowd shouted “revolution.” Other protesters car- Black brown beaded jacket paired with a brown Britt a G-20 spouses dinner at Downing Street, with guests ried signs that read “Consumers suck!” and “Stop the Lintner dress, accessorized with brown leather Jimmy including high-profile British women such as “Harry war!” A clutch of protesters dressed like ninjas and Choo shoes, which her spokesman said she had “picked Potter” author J.K. Rowling, Olympic gold medalist wearing balaclavas and hooded sweatshirts ran at walls up in the January sales.” Dame Kelly Holmes, film director Gurinder Chadha, of police officers with interlinked arms. Earlier in the day, Michelle Obama drew cheer- broadcaster Emma Freud and, the sole representative During the day, there were some clashes, with pro- ing crowds outside a cancer care center based at of the fashion world, none other than Naomi Campbell. testers using an office chair to break windows of the Charing Cross Hospital, where she paid a visit along- Obama was seated between Rowling and Holmes. Royal Bank of Scotland’s Threadneedle Street branch. side Brown. Even the nurses were hanging out of The guests dined on an all-British meal concocted by The BBC reported that police sustained a few minor in- the windows to watch her arrival. In her signature, Jamie Oliver, including organic salmon from Shetland, juries during the protests. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 WWD.COM Phantom Planet’sPlanet’s AlexAlex GreenwaldGreenwald For more, see WWD.com. Dominic Cooper and performs atat Balthazar.Balthazar. Amanda Seyfried, both in Gucci.

Jimmy Fallon in Prada and Mark Ronson in Topman.

Jay-Z in a Louis

Vuitton vest. s Emily Mortimer First Round in Topshop. The arrival of Topshop Topman this week has sent New Yorkers into a frenzy. Fashion followers are eager to get their hands on the British label’s cheap and cheeky product while partygoers are anxiety ridden over which of the three opening parties they’re invited to. (Yes, there are three. Apparently just one — or none — seemed too 2009.) So it was surprising to approach the new Broadway store Tuesday night for the first affair and see there weren’t more than a dozen or so shoppers on each of the four floors. What about the frenzy? Sir Philip Green, Topshop’s top man, said the calm was all carefully calculated. “With a small group it’s easier to talk to people and understand what they like,” he said. “It would be wrong if we had 1,000 people here and didn’t know 900.” Having said that, the after-dinner at Balthazar was more happening, as editors and celebrities gushed about their obsession over Champagne and French martinis. “Every trip to London revolves around a trip to Topshop,” said Michelle Monaghan. “I was shooting a movie in London for three months, and I would go Vanessa Hudgens to Topshop once a week,” said Emma Roberts. “When I came back to L.A., in Gucci. everyone was really jealous.” Some of the Brits in attendance were a bit deflated over the idea their s Santigold in Marc Jacobs. a beloved brand is no longer exclusively theirs. “It’s usually my first port ll e of call when I go home,” said London transplant Emily Mortimer. “Now I’ll d

ar just go straight to my mum’s.” S

to Things heated up when Mark Ronson and the Dap Kings took the stage, na

o accompanying acts including Daniel Merriweather, Santigold and Amazing Baby. “This is one of the weirdest gigs I’ve ever done,” Ronson said, D BY while his mom Ann Dexter-Jones and half-sister Annabelle rocked out. But it was , who arrived to the party straight from taping

Gucci Jimmy Fallon his talk show, who really took the house down with his melodic version ner; h of Sting’s “Englishman in New York.” ic E During the song’s musical interlude, he started in on the chorus of eve Beyoncé’s “Single Ladies,” probably not knowing Jay-Z had just arrived. The St rapper was there, without his wife, as a favor to Ronson. “Mark told me it BY would be super cool, so I had to check it out,” he said. Meanwhile in Los Angeles, Amanda Seyfried and Vanessa Hudgens cohosted a opShop

T dinner for Gucci’s new Flora scent at Chateau Marmont. The two starlets chatted ne; o animatedly with guests including Rumer Willis, Dakota Johnson, Lily Collins, Dominik Garcia- Lorido (Andy Garcia’s daughter) and Kate Sumner. “I’m not sure what ‘hosting’ even annacc

I means, but I like that I get to talk to everyone,” said Seyfried. For Hudgens, one benefit of being in the spotlight is getting to play dress- mas up. “Last season I searched high and low for this pair of Gucci shoes and ho I couldn’t find them. But now I got to pick out a new pair that I’m obsessed with.” There were a few older kids at the table, but not by too many years. Jason Segel and his brother looked tickled to be seated next to Megan Fox, while Paula Patton found herself at the Paula Patton Michelle Monaghan end of the table next to 18-year-old Brit newcomer Alex Pettyfer. “Wow, I didn’t realize I was in Gucci. inin Topshop. Annabelle Dexter-Jones

T PHOTO BY Leviva a cougar,” Patton, 33, said.

Margarita Levieva DIDN’T FOLLOW THE TYPICAL PATH Margarita school in Secaucus, N.J., instead. “My mom wouldn’t let me go [to OF a Hollywood actress, but now that she’s become one, she Levieva Laguardia]. It became a big talk about, ‘We’re immigrants and we has a wealth of life experience to draw from. Not only was the have to do something real with our lives.’” Russian-born actress once one of the top rhythmic gymnasts in New York, but she also majored in economics at NYU, while BUYING TIME: Levieva paid her way through NYU by working full- supporting herself (and her studies) with a job as a fashion buyer. time as a buyer for Assets London, the now-defunct chain of high Starting Friday, she appears in “Adventureland,” a comedy from fashion boutiques, which once had three New York locations. “I “Superbad” director Greg Mottola. Oh, and she’s currently making would schedule showroom appointments at times when I didn’t her Broadway debut alongside Joan Allen and Jeremy Irons in have class,” says Levieva, who at 17 was a regular in the sales “Impressionism.” Here, Levieva, 29, explains how it all happened. offices of Dolce & Gabbana and Barbara Bui. “The first thing [the sales teams] would say was, ‘Is your dad coming? Or your boss?’ I DANCE DANCE REVOLUTION: Levieva took up rhythmic gymnastics would tell them, ‘No, it’s just me,’ and then they’d say, “Oh, do you — that oft-parodied dance-gymnastics hybrid involving ribbons, want a glass of Champagne?’” hoops and various other props — at age 3 while living in Communist Russia. “My mother walked me into the [gymnastics] school and the SUPER BAD GIRL: Set in the world of corn dogs and Tilt-A-Whirls, [teachers] did some little tests,” she recalls. “They were touching “Adventureland” tells the story of young love between nebbish my cheeks and stomach and they said, ‘She’s got a tendency for James (Jesse Eisenberg) and brooding but irresistible Em (Kristen chubbiness.’” Despite this, Levieva was accepted, and over the years Stewart), both summer employees at an amusement park circa the became increasingly devoted to the sport. “[The government] paid for Reagan era. Levieva plays Lisa P, the gum- you to practice, so basically they owned you,” she says. “By the time smacking, Lycra- and leopard print-loving staff I was 9 years old I was practicing seven days a week, all year round.” hottie. It’s a role for which Levieva says she almost didn’t audition. “I’m not an insecure AN AMERICAN TALE: When Levieva was 10 years old, her parents person, per se, but I just never saw myself divorced; the following year, her mother moved Margarita and her as the girl who walks into a place and everybody goes, ‘Wow.’” And twin brother from St. Petersburg, Russia to Brooklyn’s Sheepshead while director Greg Mottola initially saw “absolutely nothing” of Lisa Bay neighborhood. “I was always the serious kid,” Levieva says P in Levieva, he says, “I just sensed that Margarita had the talent of her teens. “I’m Russian Jewish. And I had to grow up really and humor to completely transform herself...And she brought so quickly.” Though she was accepted into New York’s famed much more to it than I ever could’ve imagined.” Laguardia High School to study dance, she attended public high — Nick Axelrod WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 5 WWD.COM

UL 53 weekend suitcase in canvas Bloomingdale’s Romances Designer Customer and leather. By Marc Karimzadeh room and meet the designer — all while enjoying food and wine and DJ’d music. “These are ingredi- NEW YORK — With designer shoppers more reticent ents that make for exciting retail,” she said. than ever, Bloomingdale’s is taking the initiative. Solomon noted the importance of the inti- On Tuesday, the department store held its first mate nature of the event, which is also less costly. Designer Collections Signature event — an all-af- “When it’s large scale with tons of people, it’s a ternoon happening to lure shoppers to the fourth little overwhelming at this time,” she said. floor of its 59th Street flag- “It’s that emotional con- ship and get them to dig into nection and the more inti- their wallets. Brian Reyes, mate the event, the more you Charles Chang-Lima and are able to have these kinds Lisa Perry made appearanc- of connections,” she added. es; there were vendor reps “That really is the root of for Donna Karan, Sonia what fashion is about.” Rykiel, Michael Kors, Herve While Bloomingdale’s Leger and Giorgio Armani’s didn’t disclose total sales Collezioni and Black Label, Charles Chang- from the event, a spokes- and models informally pre- Lima talking to woman said dresses contin- Hermès Gets Temporary East Hampton Home the crowd at sented key pieces from the ued to be popular, and Marc By Sharon Edelson new collections. Bloomingdale’s. Jacobs, Armani Collezioni Bloomingdale’s also of- and Blumarine were among NEW YORK — Hermès is taking the jitney to East Hampton, N.Y. fered a $1,000 “bMoney” the labels that sold well. The French luxury brand will take up temporary residence in gift card for every purchase “The store was busy and a 2,000-square-foot space at 63 Main Street from May 20 to Sept. of over $2,000, and custom- customers love meeting the 20. It will be Hermès’ first seasonal store. ers filled out ballots for a designer, famous or not,” While retailers such as Gucci, Coach, J. Crew, Eli Tahari, copy of the $200 “La Femme designer Perry noted, add- Polo Ralph Lauren and Tiffany have opened in the Hamptons, Rykiel” book. ing she found customer Hermès remained on the sidelines, shipping products direct to “We are approaching a feedback inspiring. “I want customers in East Hampton, Southampton and Bridgehampton. transformation in retail and I to run back to my studio “We send a tremendous amount of merchandise out to the think we are all reevaluating and design away,” she said. Hamptons pre-summer season and during the summer season,” our events,” said Stephanie ERICKSEN KYLE “It gets me all charged up.” said Robert Chavez, chief executive officer of Hermès USA. Solomon, vice president and Chang-Lima concurred. While Chavez is convinced Hermès has a strong following in fashion director for women’s “I like to listen to what the the resort communities, he’s not ready to make a permanent com- PHOTOS BY ready-to-wear and accesso- Brian Reyes with two models in his designs. customers have to say,” he mitment. “The store will only be open for the four peak summer ries at Bloomingdale’s. said. “They are kings, espe- months,” he said. “We want to do at least two or three summer Bloomingdale’s had invited its key new designers cially right now, so you have to listen.” seasons to get a read on what the potential is. If it’s very strong, and merchandised its collections in a way that the Reyes, meanwhile, is in his first season at the we’d look to do something on a more permanent basis.” clothing racks were positioned in the middle of the store. For him, the event had a personal signifi- Chavez conceded traffic continues to be down in stores, but floor. “The idea that the customer was able to get the cance. “I worked at Bloomingdale’s in Boca Raton added, “Our team is very proactive. We’re doing a lot of extra look now without having to search for it was a big when I was in high school,” Reyes recalled. “I did work. We’re holding on.” success,” Solomon said, adding shoppers had the sales first, but then moved over to visuals. It’s kind Hermès’ beach store will offer summer-type products such chance to try on clothes, come out of the dressing of come full-circle.” as pareos, bathing suits, summer-oriented ready-to-wear, beach towels and tablewear. “We’ll offer our cashmere shawls, which are perfect for summer evenings, less formal jewelry, porcelain and items that can be used as hostess gifts. There will be brighter colors in our scarf collection.” Sadove Outlines Goals for Saks The design of the East Hampton store will be a departure from typical Hermès units. The store will be primarily white By David Moin 5th, three to five outlet openings are planned this with sisal flooring. “We know that the potential is great,” Chavez year, with 5 to 10 percent square footage growth in added. “We want to make this very casual and relaxed. People go Saks INC. wants to get back what it lost outlets annually over the next several years. to the Hamptons to get away from all the formality.” last year — profitability. Sadove expects Saks to be “free cash flow posi- The luxury company seeks a return to midsin- tive this year” by managing the company “very gle-digit profitability in a couple of years through tightly.” Capital spending has been cut to under continued cost cutting, evolving the mix, procur- $60 million from $130 million last year. He project- ing more exclusives and growing the outlet and ed low-to-mid-teen comp sales declines in 2009. Cavalli Continues Sale Talk, Eyes CEO Internet businesses, according to Saks chairman Saks is evolving its merchandise mix but not By Alessandra Ilari and chief executive officer Stephen I. Sadove, abandoning luxury, Sadove stressed. “We are not who outlined the strategy Wednesday at a Telsey trading down from Prada to some entry price MILAN — Roberto Cavalli said he met again on Tuesday night with Advisory Group Consumer Conference. point.” However, “You will see some shifting within Clessidra SGR SpA representatives, who laid out what he called “We will dramatically shift the mix of products Prada, the Diors, the Chanels and a mix of prod- an “interesting plan” for his fashion house — but declined to di- consumers want,” Sadove said. “Consumers’ love uct offering at the good, better, best [prices] within vulge details. of brands isn’t going away. I do believe we are those brands. So our buy will be gravitating a little Cavalli is in talks with the Italian private equity fund to sell 20 going to have more exclusivity. Walk up and down bit. It’s very important that we are not moving away percent of his company. But as the talks focus on more concrete Madison or Worth Avenue, and you are seeing from [being] the luxury player. We are balancing it details, the designer said a question mark continues to hang over [fewer] shops,” meaning brands closing stores will by store. Some brands will actually get more prod- his head as to whether selling is the right thing to do, especially seek other channels to sell their goods. uct; some brands will be edited out.” in a downturn when company valuations are low. “We are working with the vendor community on Sadove spoke at length about the consumer mind- “I’m attracted by the idea of having an interesting partner, but margin structure, and working on full-price sell- set. “There is a lack of trust in the markets,” though the price is very different,” said Cavalli, who stressed he will dis- ing,” Sadove said. After sharply cutting invento- there have been some encouraging signs of change, cuss the transaction with all of his family, including his five chil- ries, healthier margins and greater full-price sell- including statistics this week that consumer confi- dren. “This is a moment of change and one must organize them- ing are feasible, he stressed. dence is stabilizing. “Our customer is very driven selves in a different manner. Business was much easier these past about how they feel about the stock market. The years, but today you have to push your workers to take things in a fact that the market improved in the last couple more constructive way and with more fantasy.” We don’t expect things to go of weeks [provides] some semblance of saying, He also revealed he is seeking a chief executive officer. His “ ‘Hey, this has maybe bottomed out.’” daughter, Cristiana Cavalli, is company president, but there isn’t back to exactly as things were. On spending: “We don’t expect things to go back a ceo. to exactly as things were. People are going to be As for his relationship with Just Cavalli licensor Ittierre SpA, People are going to be looking looking for value, not just price. There are still which filed for bankruptcy protection earlier this year, the design- consumers buying at full price today, but consum- er admitted he will continue to work with the IT Holding SpA sub- for value, not just price. ­ ers generally respond exceptionally well to dis- sidiary since the license doesn’t expire until 2010. count. A lot of people have money and still have During Milan Fashion Week in February, Cavalli told the press — Stephen I. Sadove,” Saks Inc. jobs — 90 percent or so. The issue is, do they feel he wanted to take the Just Cavalli line in-house, citing delayed confident that things are getting back on track? deliveries and behind-schedule production. The line generated Sadove characterized 2007 as a strong year, marked There is no black-and-white answer.” annual revenues in 2007 of around 240 million euros, or $317 mil- by 12 percent comp-store growth and 4.5 percent oper- “Luxury is about exclusivity and limited distribu- lion at current exchange. ating profit. But last year Saks reported a $154.9 mil- tion. We will continue to see people wanting limited Convinced only his efforts will help Ittierre get back on track, lion loss on a 6 percent sales slide. “Despite the tough distribution brands.” Also, the public’s fascination Cavalli said he would personally address some of the 2,000 sale financial results, a lot of good things did happen,” with fashions that appear on red-carpet celebri- points that carry his secondary line. “I will personally call be- Sadove said, citing a 14.6 percent inventory decline ties, and the fascination with what Michelle Obama tween 200 and 300 of the best stores to tell them that I’m involved after being bloated by excess supply, carrying out wears: “That cultural element is going to continue.” and I will speak to the 400 [Ittierre] workers in Isernia” where renovations at key locations and implementing new There has been speculation that Mexican bil- Ittierre’s plants are, stressed Cavalli. planning and allocation and clienteling systems. lionaire Carlos Slim Helu could try to take over On a lighter note, Cavalli said he is ironing out a new project ­— He said Saks Direct is an “ongoing growth vehi- Saks. He’s already Saks’ biggest investor, with an his own fashion world Web site — that should be up by Christmas. cle” and the outlets are performing “substantially 18.5 percent stake, as Sadove noted, and the stock “I would like the world to be sweeter and there to be more better” than full line, and viewed as a distribution is cheap, closing at $2.12 Wednesday. love, and I’d like to transmit these values through my own Web site channel rather than just a sell-off vehicle. More Sadove said little to illuminate the situation with with blogs, live online appearances, pushing young designers,” products are being ordered specifically for Off- Slim. “He’s a good, long-term investor in a buy mode.” said Cavalli. 6 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 Bank on It

PHOTO BY DANIEL GARRIGA WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 7 WWD.COM

From left: Tom Ford’s Plaid and its multiple cotton shirt and wool variations have taken the pants. Tom Ford tie; David Yurman tie bar; lead in men’s shirts for the Salvatore Ferragamo belt. past few seasons. But this fall, designers are leaving Prada’s cotton shirt and Giorgio Armani’s the workwear trend behind polyester, rayon and in favor of the updated viscose pants. Tom Ford stripe. The new pattern pocket square as scarf. is based on a minimalist Canali’s cotton shirt and simplicity, a balance of Theory’s wool pants. Ralph Lauren Purple micro proportions, tonal Label tie; Jan Leslie tie stripes and a blended-in bar; Bally belt. effect. Look for variations Etro’s cotton shirt and of gray and white, or D&G’s wool pants. Theory tie; Jan Leslie tie bar; thin black-and-white Bottega Veneta belt; pinstripes, some with Sermoneta gloves. white contrasting collars, Z Zegna’s cotton shirt to add an extra layer of and rayon and viscose refinement to the perfectly pants. Theory tie; Bulgari tie bar; Dunhill belt; tailored dress shirt. Joseph Abboud gloves. — Alex Badia

WwD Men’s MODELS: STAN J., REID P., LYLE L., ZAC M., AARON A/RED; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI FOR TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY ANNA BERNABE FOR CLINIQUE; FASHION INTERNS: SABRINA RALSTON AND KEELEY MICHENER; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUIS CAMPUZANO LUIS ASSISTANT: AND KEELEY MICHENER; FASHION INTERNS: SABRINA RALSTON ANNA BERNABE FOR CLINIQUE; FASHION FOR TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY TANIGUCHI RYAN L., ZAC M., AARON A/RED; HAIR BY LYLE J., REID P., MODELS: STAN 8 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 WWD.COM Denim Report Looking Beyond the ‘Runway’ With Christiana Zinn By Julee Kaplan pair of jeans that she only paid $99 for,” Christiana said. “Keeping the prices KEVIN CHRISTIANA HAS TO WORK FAST. lower was so important to me, especially “There’s a short window to work in this economy.” with after being on a reality TV show,” In addition to the jeans, Christiana Christiana, who was a “Project Runway” Zinn will include a full collection of jack- castoff on season four, said of his new ets. There is a military-inspired navy wool brand, Christiana Zinn. “I wanted to get jacket with gold buttons, a gray denim mo- this out there while people still knew torcycle style and a selection of peacoats who I was.” and velvet boyfriend blazers. The jackets While many might recognize him from wholesale for $56. the popular reality show, Christiana’s new The new line, which is based at 1407 premium denim line is far from his fi rst Broadway in New York, is aimed at spe- real stint in the fashion business. As con- cialty and department stores. Christiana temporary designer Susanna Monaco’s is hoping to expand into more catego- fi rst cousin, Christiana landed his fi rst ries eventually, such as shirtdresses and design gig at Monaco’s company, where dress shirts. he said he learned almost everything he In addition, Christiana said he is work- knows about design. ing on a high-end men’s denim brand After six years with Monaco, the then- called Mynt 1792, which he hopes to have 26-year-old Fashion Institute of Design ready for a fall launch. graduate launched two of his own women’s brands — Kevin Christiana, a full ready-to- wear line, and K Jeans, which sold in bou- tiques and the Victoria’s Secret catalogue. Christiana closed those businesses when he decided to try out for “Project Runway.” Now the 32-year-old can be seen regularly as a style expert on the “Rachel Ray Show,” is working on a screenplay he calls “a modern-day ‘Odd Couple,’” and will launch Christiana Zinn. The collection of denim jeans features a skinny, curvy and mature fi t in a wide range of washes and leg openings, from a gray skinny-leg style to a deconstructed CENTENO light-washed boot cut. All jeans are avail- Two looks from able in sizes 0 to 14, as well as plus sizes, TALAYA Christiana Zinn. and they wholesale at $45. “I want a woman to be able to walk into a store and walk out with a great PHOTOS BY Kevin Christiana Mauro Grifoni Eyes International Push A Waterless Wash from Jeanologia By Luisa Zargani By Ross Tucker MILAN — Mauro Grifoni is look- SPANISH DENIM RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT COMPANY ing to follow the opening of its Jeanologia has unveiled its latest technology designed to lessen the envi- latest boutique here with con- ronmental impact of denim processing. tinued expansion of its retail The G2 fi nishing machine was introduced at the company’s Valencia network in Europe and a push headquarters on Wednesday. Rather than relying on the traditional com- in the American market. bination of water and chemicals to produce various shades of denim, the The Caldogno, Italy-based G2 uses a process that relies on air. In addition to eliminating the use of brand’s fi rst boutique here is water and chemicals, the G2 rids the fi nishing process of toxic emissions located in a 19th-century four- and dumping, and reduces overall energy usage. story palazzo in the city’s cov- The company’s development comes eted Via Santo Spirito shop- at a time when the denim industry is ping area. The store opened seeing a resurgence in the popular- at the end of February during ity of vintage and washed-out styles. Milan Fashion Week. Achieving these looks requires the use Mauro Grifoni, owned by of signifi cant amounts of water, chemi- the namesake designer and cals and energy. Jeanologia estimates his partners, Ilaria Sesso and that 158.5 billion gallons of water Andrea Breda, comprises The interior of the Milan store. and 1.3 million tons of chemicals are women’s and men’s collections, women’s used each year in the denim fi nishing eveningwear, children’s wear and a denim best way to present consumers with a full pic- process. Were the entire industry to and sportswear division that accounts for 40 ture of the label’s offerings. adopt the G2 process for denim and percent of sales. In 2008, the company reg- “Retail is very important to us. It’s our way other garments, Jeanologia believes istered sales of 47 million euros, or $69 mil- to communicate, given the range of our mer- the amount of water saved would be lion at average exchange rates, up 8 percent chandise,” said Grifoni, who started the com- enough to supply Spain with enough compared to the previous year, with 5 million pany in 1992 as a handmade shirtmaker. drinking water for eight months. euros, or $7.3 million, derived from its own The women’s line was launched in 1997 Jeanologia said the savings per gar- stores. Grifoni expects revenues in 2009 to and is designed by Sesso, who said she draws ment are equally dramatic compared grow 10 percent. from men’s wear, employing men’s fabrics and with the standard fi nishing process. The Milan store is the brand’s sixth in cuffs for shirts, for example. That said, there Energy consumption is lowered by The G2 uses no chemicals. Italy, and Grifoni said he expected sales of are plenty of delicately fl ower-patterned coats more than 50 percent and the time 2 million euros, or $2.5 million, in the fi rst and pleated miniskirts. As for denim, the required is reduced by more than 50 year. Locations in London and Paris are being women’s best-selling model is the low-waist, percent. The overall cost per garment is estimated to be 52 percent lower scouted for stores in the near future, but body-hugging Kiss, while for men it’s the than using traditional fi nishing methods. Grifoni said details have yet to be fi nalized. straight-leg Gorky design. The company has been developing the G2 system since 2006, but it isn’t The brand is also available at 500 points of Sesso said the Milan store was designed its fi rst product aimed at lowering costs and environmental impact from sale around the world, including Isetan and to take advantage of existing details to give the denim development process. In 2001, Jeanologia introduced a textile Barneys Japan, as well as Barneys New York, it a “home feeling.” It blends coffered ceil- laser in the market under the GFK brand. Advancements in the technol- Louis Boston and Traffi c in Los Angeles. ings painted white, and recovered stuccoed ogy have progressed to such an extent the system can scan a vintage pair Sesso said the company is planning a more walls with modern touches such as black of jeans and reproduce the exact look, including holes and abrasions, in aggressive push in the U.S. with the summer smoky glass. under a minute. 2010 collection. The store is also fi lled with vintage, shab- At the July 2008 edition of the Kingpins denim textile show here, “We are taking the general economic crisis by-chic details like recycled pallets coated Jeanologia hung vintage jeans from the 1950s and 1970s side-by-side with into account, but we’re seeing positive results in resin, old metal fi le cabinets that are their reproductions and challenged designers and buyers to identify the and even growing our advertising expense used as displays and old boxes from haber- imitations. Few were able to discern the difference. to reach 1 million euros [$1.2 million],” said dashers’ shops that have been turned into “There’s a perception in the market that we are on a mission to dispel: Sesso. “Our customers perceive our collec- shelves. The top fl oor has been designed to that if you use a laser in production of the jeans, it will look fake,” Michelle tions as timeless pieces that will last.” serve as an offi ce, showroom and special Branch, creative director at Jeanologia, told WWD at the time. “Many think Grifoni views directly owned retail as the events space. there’s no way to make it look authentic, and 10 years ago that was true.”

10 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 WWD.COM The Beat Nigo Steps Down as Bape President Zadig & Voltaire: Bonjour to New York Retail residents of New York’s Meatpacking District By Julee Kaplan have a new French neighbor. Zadig & Voltaire, the Parisian purveyor of ca- sual contemporary fare with a boho-rock flair, moved into 831 Washington Nigo, the Japanese fashion Street last month and will officially open with a launch party on Monday. designer who has gathered a cult Founded in 1997, Zadig & Voltaire is already well established in Europe following for his A Bathing Ape — it has 11 stand-alone stores in Paris, more than 100 doors globally and is streetwear brand, is stepping wholesaled in department stores such as Le Bon Marché, Printemps and down as president and director Galeries Lafayette in France and Dubai. Signature styles include plush pastel of the brand he founded in 1993. cashmeres, T-shirts and studded leather bags, which range in price from $80 Nigo said in an e-mail he to $1,000, and are designed by the label’s creator and chief executive officer, will remain the majority owner Thierry Gillier, and its artistic directors, Cecilia Bonstrom and Carol Gerland. of Nowhere Co. Ltd., A Bathing The company also recently launched its first fragrance, Tome 1 La Pureté, Ape’s parent company. He will which was developed by Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi of Le Labo. also continue as the designer of Zadig & Voltaire’s A Bathing Ape (aka Bape) as well New York outpost as his partnership with singer- comes nearly four producer Pharrell Williams in years after the com- the Billionaire Boys Club and pany’s entry into the Ice Cream brands, where he is American market. co-owner and head designer. Its first Stateside “I intend to explore the possi- store opened in Los bilities of taking on new projects Angeles’ Sunset on a freelance basis,” he said. Plaza in 2005, at Nigo said he has decided to which point its U.S. give up his management duties expansion plan in- at the firm in order to concen- cluded six to 10 new trate more on the creative side, stores within two which was the reason he started years, according to the company. A spokeswoman the retailer’s then- Minimalist displays inside Zadig & Voltaire. said the firm’s executives are ceo Al Cadosch. ericksen kyle photo by currently deciding whether to Things have obvi- hire a new president. ously progressed more slowly than originally anticipated, at least in the Nigo, whose real name is U.S. In the meantime, Zadig & Voltaire, which reported $135 million in Tomoaki Nagao, is known world- annual sales, has focused its push in Europe and Asia. wide as a Japanese music pro- “[We are] undergoing a very strong expansion, opening over 20 store ducer, DJ and founder of Bape, locations every year,” said Gillier, noting new spaces are planned abroad which he launched 16 years in London, Madrid, Amsterdam, Luxembourg and Japan. In the U.S., ago Wednesday. To create buzz stores are planned for Aspen, Colo.; Miami; Chicago; San Francisco, and around his new brand in 1993, a second one in Los Angeles. Nigo produced between 30 and Such expansion might seem optimistic in this unsteady retail climate, 50 T-shirts a week and split them but Gillier is willing to test the waters despite having signed the New York between his celebrity friends, lease in July “in the old economy,” as he put it. When asked if he had any including Williams and Kanye hesitation about opening in the new economy, Gillier said, “No, because West, while only putting a limited Nigo and Pharrell Williams at the Billionaire Boys Club and Ice it’s only one shop, and the shop is really a window into the States.” number for sale. Cream store in New York. And indeed, the New York store’s floor-to-ceiling windows peer into 2,200 Today, A Bathing Ape, which square feet designed by France’s So-An and New York’s A+I architecture Nigo named after the 1968 film “Planet of the Apes,” is said to generate well over $70 million firms to a minimalist, gallery effect, with mirrored ceilings and a lacquered annually in retail sales. There are 24 Bape stores worldwide, most of which are in Japan, with display table in the center of the floor. Gillier, who projected $2 million in one store in New York and one in Los Angeles. The brand now extends beyond clothing to a first-year sales, prefers the Meatpacking District to SoHo’s cramped retail Bape Café, Bape Cuts hair salon, Bape Kids and even a music division, Bape Sounds. landscape. “It’s a small place, so you can see who’s there compared to SoHo, where there are so many shops,” he said. “When you are in the Meatpacking everybody knows you are in the Meatpacking.” Streetwear Tunes Into Headphones — Jessica Iredale By David Lipke Nixon models, priced from $40 to $200, are sold in specialty stores that also sell Nixon’s Mek Denim Broadens Its Mix Junior women’s action sports brand watches, wallets, bags and apparel, includ- Mek Denim wants to take its jeans-loving bohemian cus- Roxy will launch a line of cobranded head- ing Barneys Co-op. The WeSC headphones tomers on a trip around the world through a new travel-inspired sports- phones this spring with audio components retail from $32 to $200 and are in almost wear collection. maker JBL featuring bold, colorful designs all of the company’s U.S. fashion accounts, This fall, the Los Angeles-based denim company will begin selling that are a far cry from the sleek but subdued including Urban Outfitters, Scoop, Ron T-shirts, hoodies and jackets wholesaling between $18 and $50. With styles usually found in electronics stores. Robinson, Colette and Karmaloop. as many as 12 styles for women and 10 for men, Mek aims to add fresh- In colors such as hot pink or lime green and WeSC’s headphone sales grew 600 percent ness in the tops business for its existing base of retailers, including The embellished with graphic prints, from 2007 to 2008, and last year’s sales have Buckle and Metropark, which already sell its jeans at retail from $125 the Roxy headphones are meant already been matched in the first three to $155. After the launch of a premium label called Voyage and an eco- to be as much a fashion months of 2009, said company president friendly line, Mekology, the sportswear represents the next step for the statement as a piece Greger Hagelin. Headphones now four-year-old company in building a lifestyle brand. of hardware. account for more than 11 percent “Some of our key retailers are ask- “Our target con- of the total WeSC business. ing us to build a product and build a full sumer of young, “We see headphones as like collection, not be pigeonholed to just do active girls and a great pair of sneakers or jeans,” said Kurt Lester, Mek’s vice presi- women want their the perfect handbag,” dent of sportswear. electronics to look as Hagelin said. Rather than sticking with plain jersey, good as they sound, so At online fashion Lester said Mek opted for a jersey-Lycra this partnership made a retailer Karmaloop, blend and combed-cotton fleece to enhance lot of sense,” said Kenna headphones bring the body-conscious silhouettes, ranging from Florie, vice president of mar- in about $90,000 wide scoopnecks and plunging V-necks to long keting at Roxy Americas, a a month in sales, tanks and hoodies cinched under the bust. division of Huntington Beach, said Greg Selkoe, The tattoo-inspired embellishments under- Calif.-based Quiksilver Inc. chief executive score the travel theme Mek uses when nam- The Roxy initiative comes officer of the e- ing its $125-plus jeans after locales such as after several other youth-orient- commerce site. It Casablanca and Woodstock. Screen prints of ed fashion brands jumped into Roxy’s headphones will debut sells styles from WeSC, tropical flowers enliven the sleeves of a white the audio headphones market. in Apple stores in May. Nixon and SkullCandy, A look from Mek’s hoodie dubbed Tahiti. A formfitting T-shirt Swedish streetwear maker WeSC a fast-growing Salt Lake City- new sportswear line. called Karachi catches the eye with pops of launched a line of branded headphones in based company that makes audio accessories metallic nail heads and Lurex thread atop a July 2007. Its offering has grown from four for the action sports consumer. screen print evoking an elaborate henna tattoo. As orange is the official color models the first season to 15 models for fall, The Roxy headphones, which retail from of the Netherlands, Mek picked that tint for the contrast stitching on a graph- with almost 100 colorways now available. In $39.95 to $69.95, are to launch in Apple retail ite-colored jacket named Amsterdam. December, Encinitas, Calif.-based accesso- stores in May, followed by a rollout to elec- Lester said Mek will expand its selection of fabrics and categories. For ries maker Nixon introduced a collection of tronics retailers, specialty fashion stores, instance, he said the holiday collection will integrate a cotton-based fabric headphones, also geared toward the fashion Quiksilver stores and roxy.com. The launch that feels like cashmere, and skirts will form part of the subsequent spring streetwear crowd. will be supported by a print advertising lineup. The company said children’s sportswear also is in the works. Rather than distributing their head- campaign in Teen Vogue, Seventeen, Paper Lester declined to give first-year sales projections for the new collection. phones through electronics chains, WeSC and Nylon magazines, as well as an online ­— Khanh T.L. Tran and Nixon go through fashion retailers. The initiative. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD NO MORE CATFIGHT: After almost a year of legal limbo, and contributions and making salary cuts that will impact NEWSSTAND LANDING: In just when it was in danger of fading from memory, “Project anyone earning more than $100,000, amounting to 10 what will be a first for the Runway” is back. The show will finally make a new home percent of the increment above that level. In addition, in-flight magazine category, at Lifetime. NBC Universal, parent of Bravo, and The employees will be required to take a weeklong furlough with Delta Air Lines will soon Weinstein Co. have settled their dispute over the show, no pay. — Amy Wicks sell its magazine, Sky, on which had left the reality program newsstands. About 15,000 in the dark for nearly a year. GOING HOME: Michael Boodro copies will be available on On i

According to a statement T is back at Elle Decor as more than 2,500 newsstands from NBC Universal, the parties executive editor, coming full later this month, including llec cO

“resolved their disputes.” As a circle after launching the Barnes & Noble and Borders, result, The Weinstein Co. “will pay TT now-defunct Culture & Travel at a cost of $3.99 an issue.

NBCU for the right to move ‘Project vere and editing Martha Stewart As for the reasoning behind e Runway’ to Lifetime.” Living for two years. Mitchell selling on newsstands, a esy The amount Weinstein has to T Owens, the outgoing executive spokeswoman said since ur shell out was not disclosed. Lifetime O editor, has been named editor the magazine will cover lifestyle, travel and business, Delta /c reportedly paid between $150 O at large, a job the company believes it will be something people will want to access million and $200 million for “Project is tieing into the new Luxury in the months they aren’t traveling. Of course, given the Brav

Runway” for a five-year deal. By Design Group, entailing recession, more and more folks aren’t taking to the friendly The legal drama began last both feature writing for the skies at all. The launch issue has Heidi Klum on the cover

April when Weinstein said it was PHOTO magazine and multiplatform with a total of 132 pages, including 40 ad pages, 61 edit moving the show to Lifetime from “Project Runway” has found a new home on Lifetime. content. — Irin Carmon pages and 31 Delta information pages. — A.W. Bravo. NBC Universal then filed a lawsuit for breach of contract and the show remained in limbo until Wednesday’s decision. “I want to personally congratulate [NBC Universal president and chief executive officer] Jeff Zucker and NBCU on their success in the litigation and thank Jeff for resolving this in a professional manner. We look forward to working together on our ongoing projects,” said Harvey Weinstein, co-chairman of The Weinstein Co. Season six of “Project Runway” will air on Lifetime in the summer with hosts Tim Gunn and Heidi Klum and judges Michael Kors and Nina Garcia, fashion director of Marie Claire, which — no surprise — will be the official magazine sponsor. The latest season wrapped taping in February during New York Fashion Week under unusual circumstances: the competing designers had to remain sequestered backstage in order to hide their identities until the show aired. “Project Runway” might not have easy sailing, though. In the year the program has been off the air, several other fashion-related reality contests have sprung up, including “The Fashion Show,” a new designer contest on Bravo, with Harper’s Bazaar as the official magazine partner. The program will premiere May 7. — Stephanie D. Smith

MORE CUTS: The latest round of pink slips has hit Condé Nast Digital, where 30 people were said to have been let go on Wednesday and the cuts came mainly from the production end of the business. Sites that were affected include Brides.com and Wired.com. A spokeswoman would not confirm how many people were laid off. “The creation of Condé Nast Digital was about setting the company up for growth in the digital area,” said the spokeswoman. “As the various digital units merged, we have found some duplication. We are streamlining to form one unified staff.” Elsewhere, during the past few days, approximately 40 employees have reportedly been let go across all areas of Forbes, including managing editor Stewart Pinkerton. “It is no secret that the economy is in a deep contraction and the media business in particular has been especially hard hit,” said Steve Forbes, chairman and chief executive officer, in an internal memo. “While doing better than our peers, our business has been adversely affected.” As a result, even those still employed are being squeezed: The memo went on to say the company is suspending 401(k) matching 12 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 WWD.COM Men’s Suit Shoppers Sensitive to Price By Jean E. Palmieri for Bloomingdale’s, said although suit sales are not robust, it’s the opening-price lines — both classic and contemporary — that are doing the best. “Business up to $1,400 is OK,” Price really does matter when it comes to men’s tailored cloth- he said. “But you still have to have an incentive, a deal or a suiting event to drive sales.” ing — especially anything under $2,000. Among the best performers are Z Zegna, Hugo Boss Black Label, Burberry and Theory. With the country mired in the recession’s doldrums, moderate chains such as The “But the more expensive and classic it is, the worse it is,” he said, noting that Men’s Wearhouse and Jos. A. Bank are offering recession-buster deals for the com- Canali, Corneliani and Armani are not selling as well. “It really isn’t surprising con- mon man. Men’s Wearhouse has extended its popular buy-one-get-one-free promotion sidering the financial situation,” Fisher said. The men who used to buy this type of indefinitely, while Bank is offering customers a refund if they buy a suit for $199 and merchandise are “at the top of the unemployment list.” And those who still have jobs then lose their job. may refresh their wardrobes with one suit rather than three, and they’re “skittish But even at the higher-end, it’s opening-price-point goods that are selling best for about spending $1,800 or $2,500,” he said. retailers so far this spring. Even so, that The quest for value is sweeping America doesn’t mean the male consumer has turned right now, Fisher believes, and affect- his back on fashion. Department and spe- Hugo Boss ing other merchandise categories as well. cialty stores report that while the most-edgy suits are “We’re seeing more and more that if people designer suits may not be moving, shoppers top sellers are going to spend $800 on a jacket, they’re are still seeking contemporary styles to up- for Barneys going to pair it with a $150 jean from Levis date their wardrobes. Brands such as Hugo New York and E, which is a lot cheaper than Rock & Boss, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana appear to Mitchells. Republic. There are definitely price-point be fitting the bill for men who want to look fears out there.” modern but still be considered serious and Dan Farrington, gmm of men’s for professional. Mitchells/Richards specialty stores in “For us, the best-selling tailored-cloth- Connecticut, is also seeing some price re- ing category is contemporary,” said Tom sistance, although he is experiencing sell- Kalenderian, executive vice president and throughs on more-fashionable lines such general merchandise manager of men’s wear as Etro and Hugo Boss. While sales overall for Barneys New York. Among the store’s remain sluggish, contemporary suits are top performers are Hugo Boss, Armani “better than everything else,” he said. “Part Collezioni, Etro and Dolce & Gabbana. “The of that might be price-point related,” he luxury classics have slowed more than the added, since Hugo Boss retails for around younger, more modern lines,” he said. $1,000 and Etro at $1,200 or so. Suits that Kalenderian speculated the consumer retail for $3,000 and up are being impacted who purchased classic collections in the more by the recession. “We all got a little past has been among the hardest hit by the drunk in the heyday, but today everyone is meltdown in the financial markets. “But the looking for a deal,” he said. modern customer may not be as invested in As a result, the company has been “re- the stock market or mortgages,” he said. And thinking” its vendor mix and “intensifying” the more-contemporary shopper is open to its lower-priced lines such as Hugo Boss, “stretching his tailored wardrobe into ca- Coppley and Joseph Abboud. “Business is sual” by wearing a suit jacket with a pair not explosive, but it’s a bit of a bright spot,” of raw denim jeans on the weekends. Farrington said. “The luxury guy doesn’t do that,” The stores are also emphasizing fit to lure Kalenderian said. customers to shop. “If you haven’t bought Whatever the reason, a suit in two years, chances are it’s out of Barneys is seeing good re- date,” he said. “So we’re pushing that to sults with Hugo Boss, with an make the stores fresh and give customers a opening price of $1,035, fol- reason to buy.” lowed by Richard James at Brooks Lou Amendola, chief merchandising offi- $1,675, Gucci at $1,750, Etro Brothers’ cer for Brooks Brothers, said tailored cloth- at $1,775, Dolce & Gabbana 1818 suit, ing is doing better than the store as a whole. at $1,885 and Armani at WwD “We’ve noticed an uptick in very basic suits which retails around $2,000. for less than — solid navy, gray and classic pinstripes,” “With a few exceptions, Men’s $1,000, is he said. the action is under $2,000,” selling well. Across the store, “price is definitely an Kalenderian said. issue,” he added. “Younger people are get- Among the more traditional vendors, ting more serious at work, and [we’re seeing opening-price suits also are selling best, he noted. Barneys opens with Canali at more sell-throughs] on our opening-price and 1818 suit business.” $1,995, followed by Zegna at $2,695. Lagging are the higher-priced offerings such as For Brooks, that translates into “anything under $1,000,” Amendola said. “What has Isaia at $3,321, Brioni at $5,325 and Kiton, the top end, at $6,250. The impact is also been challenging are our higher-price suits and made-to-measure — anything geared being felt in the designer department, he said, where sportswear is outperforming to the chief executive-type guy.” In the past, this customer would take his bonus check tailored pieces. Thom Browne’s shirts and other “underpinnings,” for example, are and visit the store for a novelty item. “But he hasn’t been in the door this season,” outperforming his shrunken suits. And Prada, Gucci’s designer line, Jil Sander and Amendola said. the like are “down,” Kalenderian said. Turning to Black Fleece, the Thom Browne-designed collection that is among “The perception of clothing in the designer world is more sour,” he said. “What’s Brooks’ highest-priced offerings, with suits selling for around $1,900, Amendola re- selling to the designer customer today is not ‘go-to-work clothes.’ It’s more about what ported: “We’re actually having our best season so far. The Bleecker Street store has is unique and different.” gotten off to a strong start and is exceeding plan.” Kalenderian believes that while business overall remains challenging, the picture Brooks opened its first Black Fleece stand-alone store in the West Village in is brightening somewhat. “If you’re addicted to fashion, how long can you stay away?” January. he asked. “We’re not on the cusp of a cure yet, but there are some people who are Amendola said sportswear, particularly knitwear, has been a surprise bestseller shopping. We, as retailers, have to provide a balanced assortment, be creative and within the Black Fleece range. “We have a knit sport coat that is selling out,” he said, offer special merchandise. We cannot be boring.” noting cardigans are also performing well. “The suit sales are comparable to last year, David Fisher, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s but we’re getting the growth from sportswear,” he said.

Accounting for 30 percent of the label’s lifestyle stores. turnover, men’s wear, which also includes Despite the shuttering of the Upper Farhi Fetes 20 Years in Men’s Wear the Farhi by Nicole Farhi diffusion line, East Side store in New York last year, has doubled sales in the last five years. Scordi said the U.S. market has been By Emilie Marsh the story of the brand as a whole over the The label, which is owned by French “very positive” with solid sales from the last 20 years,” according to Farhi, who Connection Holdings Inc., generated 202 unit, a smaller scale Nicole Farhi re- PARIS — The Nicole Farhi man has come founded her fashion house in 1982. overall revenues of 30 million pounds, or tail concept in the Chelsea Market, and of age on his 20th birthday, with a new The new collection includes a double- $55.7 million at average exchange. in leading department stores. wardrobe and plans to grow. breasted herringbone coat with sheep- “We’ve seen double-digit growth in five Scordi admitted, though, that 2009 After celebrating two decades in the skin collar, a classic Nicole Farhi suit, a years,” said Niki Scordi, Farhi’s recently would be “tricky” and the company would men’s wear business with a runway pre- printed velvet jacket with sateen edging, appointed managing director. “People put the focus on core products in order to sentation of her fall men’s collection, a jacquard knit cardigan and a gold twill think of Nicole Farhi as a women’s wear ensure sales. and a dinner in London with guests in- trenchcoat, among other items. brand, but men’s wear is a considerable “It’s been more of an investment pur- cluding Farhi’s husband Sir David Hare, “[The Nicole Farhi man] is very style part of the business.” chase season than in the past. Men are Ralph Fiennes, Bill Nighy, Lady Amanda conscious but not fashion conscious and Today the label counts eight free- buying bigger pieces,” said Scordi, add- Harlech, and Colin and Livia Firth, the is very loyal to us. He is very well-trav- standing stores, including one men’s ing outerwear was doing “very strongly.” label plans to unveil a capsule collection eled…and the decision he makes about store in London, although Scordi said Scordi also noted the upcoming winter this summer. his clothes is with an education of world there are plans to expand the business season would offer a more formal bent. Dubbed 20 Nicole Farhi Men’s, the col- style, fabric and quality. internationally in the medium term, cit- “Men are a bit more conservative in lection features “special pieces that can “An understated intellectual,” she ing Hong Kong, Tokyo, Paris and Milan such times. They’re not frivolous with exist as singular, timeless items that tell added. as priority destinations for the brand’s their purchases,” she said. INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS

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Men’s Buyers Seek Deals at Atlanta’s Cobb Show By Brenda Lloyd Lee said sales at his four stores are down Ed Hardy and Christian Audigier about 40 percent, and he has cut back buying ATLANTA — Retail buyers struggling with tepid took 22 booths at the show. by 20 to 30 percent. sales turned out in force for The Cobb Show Felix Fanti, co-owner of Jeans.com from here in search of deals to entice shoppers. Vega Alta, Puerto Rico, said his sales in- “Consumer spending has tightened up con- creased 3.5 percent in 2008 and were up this siderably,” said Marvin Lee, vice president of year as well. “Business is good because we’ve Manhattan, a retail store in Greenville, S.C., got what the kids want and the competition “It’s a tough pill to swallow.” has been slow getting into it,” he explained. Exhibitors, particularly in the show’s In addition, merchandise at his 35 stores, Velocity area that houses premium urban and which sell hip-hop and surf looks, is heavily contemporary brands, said they did well and skewed to lower prices. buyers wrote orders for immediate, summer Fanti booked about 90 percent of his open- and fall. The Cobb Show, the largest men’s to-buy for immediate delivery and about 20 show on the East Coast, was held March 29 percent of fall for straight-leg jeans in baked to 30 at the Cobb Centre. The exhibition has looks, bright colors in tops, basic polos and been growing and targeting premium contem- printed T-shirts. His top lines included porary lines, which now comprise more than California Hub, Ecko, Rocawear, Baby Blues, one-third of the Velocity area, said Deborah Dickies, Miskeen and Spiritex. Green, marketing director. Monique DeClerico, buyer for Forman Overall, the show had 561 booths, com- Mills, an off-price retailer with 25 stores based pared with 572 a year ago. New exhibitors Ed in Pennsauken, N.J., booked goods for May and Hardy and Christian Audigier contributed 22 June deliveries and back-to-school. Looking of those booths. Other newcomers included for deals in the Velocity area, she picked up Verdi, Justing Jeans, Art Vandelay, Faca, Rebel cargo shorts with bellowing and stitching, pre- Spirit and Paco Chicano. mium looks in denim, woven tops with piecing Art Vandelay, based in Miami, has been and appliqués, knit tops with intricate details out for a year and offers men’s and women’s and lightweight jackets. Her brands included tops in retro hip looks. Faca, also based in Kanji, Miskeen, Rocawear and Hama. Miami, offered hand-printed T-shirts with an artistic South Beach-Lincoln Road in- “We’ve seen a pickup in denim the last two months,” she said. “People are looking fluence. Justing Jeans is a European denim brand introduced to the U.S. in February for value for their money.” at MAGIC. Rag Dynasty, which debuted at MAGIC Premium, features knit and woven Joe Levenson, owner, Mayo Suit City in Sumter, S.C., shopped for fashion suits, tops with artwork based on ancient cultures, as well as rock ’n’ roll imagery. dress shirts and ties. He said tailored clothing is selling “nicely,” but he has cut his Blu Martini launched in the suit area. Creator George DeMesquita said it is tar- buying by 20 percent. The fashion suit market is cleaning up and becoming more geted to the fashionably sophisticated mature man who wants to look elegant in a mainstream with one-, two- and three-button jackets, he said. Piece goods include casual setting. The label includes dressy jeans suits. glen plaids and windowpanes. Part of the influence is coming from President Obama, For the most part, buyers sought clean looks. “I tried to stay away from anything he said. He booked his top brands, Stacy Adams and Falcone, as well as Blu Martini. too crazy, because people are being conservative,” Manhattan’s Lee said. He bought “We’re living in challenging times,” Levenson said. “We’re having to work hard- polo knits in solids and basic stripes and woven tops with a little fashion. Most of the er. We have more promotions and we’re advertising more, but I have a positive denim he booked was plain. attitude.” Moncler Takes on Counterfeits FED UP WITH FAKES of its shiny ski puffers, Moncler has Moncler is going on implemented an the offensive against authentication counterfeiters with a system starting consumer-activated au- with its spring thentication system that collection. it has implemented in SHIRTINGS aReN’T juST its spring collection. The authentication system, developed by foR SHIRTS aNymoRe! Italy’s Certilogo with Accenture, provides each garment with a We at Philips-Boyne Corporation have understood this concept label featuring a unique for over 60 years. identification code as well as two telephone We inventory over 3 million yards of the highest quality textiles numbers and Certilogo’s Web site. The consumer in the New York area. — or anyone along the supply chain — can Imported 100% cotton; premium long staple, Egyptian call, text or go online • Solid broadcloths, Superba®, Corona®, Ultimo® to quickly verify the • Oxfords authenticity of the gar- ment and the collection • Pinpoints to which it belongs, by • Tone on Tones, Dobbies, Satin Stripes, Jacquards providing the Certilogo • Piques code. The numerical • Eyelets code in the label is gen- erated by an encryption • Yarn-dyed Stripes & Plaids method so it is neither • Seersuckers predictable nor repeating. • Batiste When contacted with a code, the system asks the user a series of • Voile questions about the garment. The answers are checked against data about the garment’s designated journey through the supply chain • Gauze and a description of the garment. If it deems the garment authentic, • Swiss Dot Certilogo attempts to collect market data from the reassured consum- • Gingham er, who is offered marketing material. But if the garment is in doubt, Stretch; Solids, Yarn-dyed Stripes & Piques the user can choose to give information to help locate possible coun- terfeits or stolen goods and identify production and retail partners possibly involved. Low Minimums! Certilogo is an Italian company founded in 2005. Its authentica- tion program is available in different versions tailored to garments, jewels, watches, accessories, car parts, toys, electronics and high- Philips-Boyne Corp.® end consumables. Some of its clients use systems designed for cus- 135 Rome Street Farmingdale, NY 11735 toms agents, not consumers, said Daniele Sommavilla, vice presi- Tel: 631.755.1230 • 1.800.292.2830 • Fax: 631.755.1259 dent of sales. Clients of the consumer program include Galliano and www.philipsboyne.com • [email protected] Ciacci Piccolomini for Brunello wines. — Jean Scheidnes WWD, thursDay, april 2, 2009 15 WWD.COM Men’s Dress Shirts Go Traditional in Weak Economy By Brenner Thomas in president obama, whose navy suits, crisp white shirts and solid red or blue ties are the epitome of professional rai- Desperate times call for Desperate mea- ment. “people are scared and want to play it safe.” sures — and conservative shirts. With good reason. the number of unemployed professional the recession has prompted men to err on the side and business service workers topped 1.5 million in february, of caution when buying dress shirts, leading to a boost nearly double the number a year ago. the unemployment rate in sales of solid white, blue and simple striped styles. for the professional industry is now 10.8 percent, more than 2 Just as the Great Depression scuttled the dandyism percentage points higher than the national average. of the twenties, the economic decline has put the skid Vendors, some of which have been trimming fashion out of on demand for fancy patterns, contrast collars, plaids their lines and emphasizing classic looks — are partially re- and bold stripes, according to shirt manufacturers and sponsible for this shirt trend. the in-stock program at Gitman fashion observers. Brothers, which is heavy on basic patterned and solid shirts, “Basics as a percent of total have picked up every- has grown 20 percent since the start of the year. where,” said mitch lechner, president of the designer the brand also cut 15 percent of its fashion offering from shirt group at phillips-Van Heusen corp., the world’s the line, suggesting there will be even more conservative largest dress shirt manufacturer. “over the last six styles on the floor come fall. “i never met a swatch i didn’t months, these styles have completely outperformed like,” said Gitman president John minahan. “But we feel we french cuff models, textured cloths and fancies.” can tell a more compelling story by showing less.” in an era where conspicuous consumption has be- even rufus, a brand built on shirts with vibrant patterns come outré, america’s white-collar workforce is es- Above: White and simply patterned shirts from Geoffrey Beene and contrasting collars and cuffs, is launching a more con- chewing styles that appear excessive, opting instead for and Calvin Klein. Below: The President’s crisp white shirt and servative range of button-down shirts for fall. “i am seeing the puritanical and basic, according to alan flusser, a solid suits are a model of conservative dress. a return to a more classic and slightly more toned-down men’s wear author and custom tailor. shirt,” said rufus owner april singer. “less embellishments, “everybody is talking about cutting back,” he said, more simple shirtings.” noting his custom clients are also gravitating to conser- the trend could be a challenge for businesses like robert vative suits and shirts. “on Wall street, there is a sensi- Graham, whose maximalist aesthetic, typified by daring tivity to not looking too wealthy. if you’re a person that pattern, bold contrasts and mixed media, is the opposite of has had to lay off 10 employees, you can’t walk into the simple and white. But the company insists the zeitgeist is office looking like some sort of Brahmin.” not against it. “in the furnishings world, men still want to the solid white shirt is particularly of the moment. express themselves,” said Neal Kusnetz, president and part- iconic, functional and symbolically associated with pu- ner of robert Graham, which is known for its sport shirts, rity and power, the white shirt is the ultimate expres- but launched dress shirts two-and-a-half years ago. “We are sion of corporate seriousness. and its recent success still selling more fashion than basics.” — pVH reported white shirt sales rose 10 percent in While there may be a consumer whose sense of fashion is february — suggests to some that businessmen are not cowed by the recession, department and specialty stores looking to project confidence and gravitas at a time across the country are seeing an uptick in sales of the de- when companies and jobs are increasingly vulnerable. mure and understated, vendors said, as if male consumers “they are dressing like this because they need want the solidity of their shirts to reflect the (hopeful) solid- to hold onto a job or are interviewing for a job,” said ity of their businesses. evangelia souris, president of optimum center for “these days, it’s all about fundamentals, whether in ap- image management, an image consultant, who added parel or business,” said flusser. “We’re going through an eco-

SHIRT PHOTOS BY THOmaS IannaccOne; OBama BY aP PHOTO/ROn edmOndS PHOTO/ROn aP BY OBama IannaccOne; THOmaS BY PHOTOS SHIRT these conservative dressers have a visible role model nomic correction, but this a fashion correction, too.” universouluniversoul

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[email protected] t:+33 [0]4 72 60 65 00 www.denimbypremierevision.com 16 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 WWD.COM Diesel Enlists Common Businesses Seek Change to Product Safety Act For Only the Brave Push By Kristi Ellis By David Lipke WASHINGTON — Saying the costly requirements of a new consumer product safety law are forcing them out of business, hundreds of business executives rallied on Capitol Hill Wednesday and urged lawmak- Hip-hop artist and actor Common will costar in ers to make changes in the measure. the U.S. advertising campaign to launch Diesel’s new fragrance, The business owners argue the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act, which went into effect called Only the Brave, which is hitting store shelves this week. last year, has had a devastating financial impact because it mandates strict standards on lead and test- L’Oréal is the licensee for the scent. ing requirements on a broad range of children’s and tween products. The 37-year-old Grammy winner will appear in print ads this The legislation requires significant reductions in lead standards in all children’s apparel, jewelry, spring and a television campaign over the upcoming holiday footwear and toys, increasing the age level that defines children’s products to 12 years from eight years season. Photographed by Platon, the print campaign will break and raising fines for violations to a maximum of $15 million from $1.8 million. The penalty for indi- in May issues of GQ, Esquire, Vibe and People. The campaign vidual violations, assessed per product, went to $100,000 from $5,000. is based on themes of Congressional proponents of the measure said they wanted to improve product safety and strengthen bravery, self-confidence the understaffed Consumer Product Safety Commission, giving it more personnel and increased fund- and empowerment. ing after a string of contaminated imports from China last year. “Common perfectly Common Rep. Joe Barton (R., Tex.) and 16 House Republicans introduced a bill on Tuesday to make changes represents the spirit for Diesel’s to the law, including setting specific dates for products to meet the standards and allowing retailers to and energy of the Only Only the sell inventory for one year after the manufacturing standards go into effect. But Democratic leaders, the Brave fragrance: Brave who control the agendas in both the House and Senate, supported the bill last year and any attempts to passion, will and con- scent. change it face stiff opposition. viction,” said Renzo Carrying buttons, T-shirts and stickers emblazoned with “Amend the CPSIA,” the executives rallied with Rosso, founder and several Republican lawmakers and then fanned out across the Capitol to push their case with lawmakers. president of Diesel. “Our industry has seen companies go out of business as a result of this act,” said Kevin Burke, Also starring in the president and chief executive officer at the American Apparel & Footwear Association. “Our industry ads with Common (born members are laying off people, and our industry has incurred severe financial losses.” Lonnie Rashid Lynn Jr.) are models Sam Way and Daniel Pimentel. The holiday televi- FASHION SCOOPS sion campaign, lensed by director Paul Gore and cinematographer LAVENDER LANE: Speculation was swirling late SPACE TRAVELER: Darius Konji, features Wednesday that Vera Wang had rethought her Helena Christensen’s separate commercials contemporary Lavender Label and decided to pull the fame isn’t just global for each of the three plug. Not so fast, said the designer. Wang downplayed — it’s galactic. “I men, focusing on their the rumors and reiterated she was still in the process got a call from outer challenges and views of figuring out Lavender’s future. She is evaluating space today,” said on life. BEAUTY BEAT fall orders of the line, which could well morph into Christensen at the Common has won something new, whether it is licensed, repositioned with Tommy Hilfiger flagship two Grammy Awards for his music and has had featured roles in a new pricing strategy or transformed into a dress line. in Milan. “I couldn’t movies including “American Gangster,” “Wanted” and the upcom- She called it a “work in progress.” “We will decide, believe it. I was at ing “Terminator Salvation.” He has also appeared in advertising but based on what the orders are coming in,” Wang the hairdresser’s and for the Gap brand in 2006. said, assuring she is going forward with Lavender shoe my phone rang. It The Common campaign will run in the U.S. and interna- licensee Brown Shoe Co. Plans for a handbag collection was my friend Charles tionally. Overseas, there will be additional ads and a televi- in a license with Accessory Network Group were put [Simonyi] calling from sion commercial starring Tony Ward, the actor and former on hold last fall. “I didn’t want to launch a bag line in a space station.” While Madonna paramour. this economy,” Wang said. And whatever happens going software billionaire- In conjunction with the campaign, Common will perform a forward, Wang took full responsibility for its hiccups. cum-space tourist street concert in Paris on May 6, an in-store concert in the Diesel “The truth is that there is really only one designer, and Simonyi continues to flagship in Los Angeles on May 20, a festival in Spain and a New that is me,” she said. tour the stratosphere, York date yet to be determined. Christensen is focusing “I’ve always thought Diesel was a progressive, fresh WEDDING BELLES: Mexico got a bump in tourism last on more down-to-earth brand — it has a classic feel, but pushes the envelope,” said Saturday when Los Angeles public relations maven matters. The model Common. “I wanted to partner with Diesel because that’s what Ashlee Margolis tied the knot with Dan Fishman at and photographer I’m about too. To be an individual and an artist, it takes both The Tides hotel in Zihuatanejo. The Kelly Wearstler- dropped into town to Helena Christensen with Tommy bravery and courage.” designed property (husband Brad Korzen also owns The help promote Hilfiger’s Hilfiger’s limited edition bag. L’Oréal is distributing Only the Brave in over 3,000 U.S. Viceroy hotels in Santa Monica and Palm Springs) was limited edition bag, profits of which will go to nonprofit points of sale, including Diesel boutiques, Macy’s, Dillard’s, booked for 240 guests including Aimee Osbourne, Paula organization Breast Health International. The bag will Belk and Sephora. Patton, Robin Thicke, Sanaa Lathan, Bijou Phillips, Danny retail for 349 euros, or $452, half of which will be Masterson, Monet Mazur, Shoshanna Gruss, Charlotte donated to the organization, along with proceeds from an Ronson, Sasha Alexander, Jessica Capshaw, Regina Hall auction of some of Christensen’s photography and works and Shiri Appleby. Cherokee owner Robert Margolis spared from Tommy Hilfiger’s private art collection. Fresh from no expense for his eldest daughter’s wedding, snapping the world’s tallest tower, the Burj Dubai, for the Vignola’s Role Grows at CKI flying out a 12-piece band, DJ Tendaji Burj Dubai Opus book due out in the fall, Christensen Lathan, two florists and a lighting designer, said she had been commissioned by the publisher By Marc Karimzadeh plus event producer Tony Schubert. The for another book on Ferrari. “When we got to the bride wore a gown by Carolina Herrera top, the sheik said, ‘I did this for my mom,’ and I NEW YORK — Robert Vignola’s role at Calvin Klein Inc. is expanding. and shoes by Jimmy Choo for the thought, What have I done lately for my mom?” The president of Calvin Klein Collection will take over licens- beachside ceremony. To wit, she is heading to India this month with ing and marketing responsibilities for CKI. Vignola also will Elle U.K. for the White Ribbon Alliance, which oversee the company’s licensees, distributors and retail partners SHOP TALK: COS, H&M’s classy combats maternal mortality. worldwide. There are more than 60 licensees and deals in areas cousin, on Thursday night feted the ranging from apparel and accessories to fragrance, home and opening of its highly anticipated retail stores. His new title is president, Calvin Klein Collection, first Parisian store, located in a LEGALLY BLONDE: Barbie’s 50th birthday global licensing and marketing. sprawling former hammam in the celebrations continue with a Paris exhibition Vignola will report to Tom Murry, CKI’s president and chief lively Marais district. Young French of new pint-size designer looks for the plastic executive officer, with regard to his new responsibilities, and to synth-pop band The Teenagers, diva set to be unveiled at Galeries Lafayette on Fabio Fusco, Milan-based ceo of Calvin Klein Collection, on his fresh from a U.S. tour, played Monday. Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix, Jean existing role. DJ for the evening, while guests Paul Gaultier and Sonia Rykiel count among Vignola joined CKI in January 2008, overseeing global sales included Zoé Felix, Ara Starck, around 50 designers to have downsized and merchandising of Calvin Klein Collection women’s and men’s acting sisters Clotilde and Annelise signature looks for the “Barbie Fashion apparel and accessories. He assumes CKI’s global licensing and Hesme and French actor Andy Gillet. His Show 2009” event. Meanwhile, Maison Martin marketing duties from Ellen Rodriguez, who held the title of ex- movie “Antique” came out in Japan last Margiela offered an incognito Barbie who comes dressed ecutive vice president, global licensing and marketing, and this week. “It’s a comedy,” he said, adding it is in a flesh-tone face mask and bodysuit, a pair of black week was named senior vice president, international and licens- set for release in South Korea this summer. fishnet tights and a shaggy coat crafted from glossy ing at Juicy Couture. As well as building a presence in Asia, Gillet blonde wigs. Ending April 25, the show will travel, “I believe that he [Vignola] will bring the same level of appears in the upcoming play “Les Justes” according to a Mattel spokeswoman. professionalism to the licensing and marketing group that he (“The Just Assassins”), which opens this fall has demonstrated with our Calvin Klein Collection business,” in Paris. With minimalist white walls and SWIRLING AROUND: Cedric Charbit, one of Paris’s more Murry said. railings, the new Paris unit, the 15th COS outspoken retail figures, has joined Emilio Pucci. Elsewhere, CKI named Fabrizio Milan senior vice president, store, is intended to appear like a “blank Charbit said he signed on as deputy general manager, commercial director for Europe and the Middle East. The ex- canvas” to showcase the clothes rather than and will be based between Florence and Paris, ecutive oversees the licensing activities for the two regions, in the space, according to creative director reporting to Pucci’s general manager Didier Drouet. addition to sales for Calvin Klein Collection. Before joining Rebekka Bay. So when is COS going to hit the Charbit had a brief stint as a general merchandise CKI, he founded the Milan Consulting fashion marketing and American market? “No plans yet,” explained manager at Harrods in London but is best known as sales consultancy, and worked with brands such as Emporio COS brand director Pernilla Wohlfahrt. “But Barbie in her the longtime vice president of the buying office and Armani, Moncler and Cinellistudio. He is based in Milan and we plan to introduce COS in the same Maison Martin general merchandise manager of women’s fashion reports to Vignola. markets as H&M.” Margiela look. for Printemps. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 17 WWD.COM Can a brand’s country of origin speak volumes to its consumers? A recent study surveyed male and female consumers worldwide to determine the importance TheWwDList of a luxury or fashion brand’s provenance. Participants were asked to name the country of origin of each brand presented (brands were predetermined from a previous field study). “Country of origin association is extremely high with all of these luxury brands, which indicates to us that consumers know these brands quite well,” said Samuel Rabino, professor of marketing and international Luxury DNA business at Northeastern University and a co-author of the study. But while where they came from was an important factor in consumers’ purchasing decisions, Top fashion and luxury labels ranked by consumers’ knowledge the study ultimately determined that “even higher attention is paid to the brand name itself,” said Rabino. — Cecily Hall and Brenner Thomas of each brand’s country of origin. CARTIER Percent of correct country association: 98.1 percent; Country of origin: France * Cartier is steeped in French heritage, and it plays up the association in its marketing and products. The “Ballon Bleu” is one of the brand’s latest pillar watches. “Must de Cartier” (“Cartier — It’s a Must”) is the name of one of the brand’s recent fragrance collections. And all designs come out of its Place Vendôme atelier in Paris. Ron Frasch, president and chief merchandising officer of Saks Fifth Avenue, told WWD in January that 1 brands such as Cartier will weather the financial storm “because it’s considered a brand with strong consumer resonance.” CHANEL 98.1 percent; Country: France * If you know Chanel, then you know Coco. And if you know Coco, you know the designer modernized women’s wear and became an enduring icon of French style. The brand, whose interlocking “CC” emblem is known by consumers worldwide, covers couture and ready-to-wear designed by the iconic Karl Lagerfeld, as well as jewelry, accessories, fragrance and beauty. The house of Chanel, owned by the Wertheimer family and headed by 2 Maureen Chiquet, has in the past tapped popular French actresses like Catherine Deneuve and Anna Mouglalis as faces. This year, French actress Audrey Tautou became the new face for Chanel No.5. DOLCE & GABBANA 96.2 percent; Country: Italy Dolce & Gabbana does not wear its country of origin on its sleeve, but nonetheless has become a $2 billion powerhouse. Its advertising, often elaborate tableaux shot around the world, takes a global perspective, and its diffusion line, D&G, doesn’t sound Italian at all. Perhaps a loyal celebrity following keeps the brand’s awareness levels high among the general public — Madonna, Demi Moore, Jennifer Lopez, Brad Pitt and 3 Victoria Beckham are fans. The fashion house is based in Milan and was founded in 1982. ARMANI 94.3 percent; Country: Italy * The brand may be global, but its message is all Italian — thanks to the stylistic consistency and worldwide fame of founder Giorgio Armani. Armani’s new 43,000-square-foot megaflagship in Manhattan opened in February and offers the entire world of Armani. The designer remained true to his heritage and worked with Italian architects Doriana and Massimiliano Fuksas to design the store’s interior. “Curved walls and tables 4 exude a sense of movement, a feeling that is heightened by a grand staircase made with rolled calender steel and covered in a plasticized material that enhances its sculptural, vortex-like form,” WWD reported at the time. GUCCI * 94.3 percent; Country: Italy Gucci is Italian luxury incarnate; it doesn’t hurt that the iconic green, white and red stripes used on products since the Fifties recall the Italian flag. The brand recently unveiled a newly renovated Rome store and debuted a collection called Heritage. Noted the brand, “Heritage is a one-of-a-kind 5 accessories collection which pays tribute to the Italians’ rich history.…Creative inspiration for this new project came from Gucci’s vast archives where [creative director Frida] Giannini resurrected several iconic handbag models.”

VERSACE * 94.3 percent; Country: Italy While the Versace brand’s signature icon, the medusa head, may be Greek, the high-profile lives of its late founder, Gianni, and his sister Donatella undoubtedly help consumers identify the label as Italian. And fans will clearly do what they can to own a piece of the Versace life: WWD reported 6 this month that “The Neoclassical art, sculpture and furniture that formed the backdrop of Gianni Versace’s lush life on Lake Como flew out of Sotheby’s in London, with sales hitting 5.4 million pounds, or $7.6 million at current exchange — halfway through the bidding.” YVES SAINT LAURENT 90.6 percent; Country: France YSL’s global penetration may not rival other brands on this list, but its connection to Paris and the Rive Gauche, the name of the brand’s original ready-to-wear line, are legendary. Saint Laurent died last year at age 71. Over 1,000 people gathered for his funeral, including French President Nicolas Sarkozy, First Lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Paris mayor Bertrand Delanoe. Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of fellow luxury 7 group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, told WWD at the time: “Monsieur Saint Laurent was the embodiment of French haute couture for half a century. He designed for a woman who reconciled the two fundamental truths, which always guided him in his personal life: freedom and elegance.” DIOR * 88.7 percent; Country: France The brand has been synonymous with France almost from the day Monsieur Dior shocked the nation — and the world — with his New Look. And that heritage has only grown through the years via Marc Bohan, the Italian Gianfranco Ferré, and now John Galliano. The company, owned by 8 LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, plays up its roots, even using French in its product line with the launch of J’adore perfume in 1999. French actress and Academy Award winner Marion Cotillard is featured in the Lady Dior spring ad campaign.

VALENTINO 88.7 percent; Country: Italy * Valentino is synonymous with Italian glamour, from the designer’s atelier in Rome to his famously deep tan. Valentino Garavani, who retired last year, has been a household name since the Sixties and is back in the spotlight with the release of the new documentary, “Valentino: The Last Emperor.” Last fall, Valentino’s newly tapped creative heads, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, told WWD they plan to capitalize on the 9 decade spent “working elbow-to-elbow with Valentino himself, to ferry the house into the future while remaining anchored to its history and DNA.” LOUIS VUITTON 86.8 percent; Country: France Most consumers may know Louis Vuitton is French, but it’s puzzling that one of the most recognizable brands in the world scores well below some of its French (and Italian) counterparts. One answer may be it’s non-national approach to advertising. The brand’s recent ad campaign, “Core Values,” included Mikhail Gorbachev, Catherine Deneuve, Sean Connery and Keith Richards, and focused on the celebrities rather than the brand’s 10 French heritage. And while last year’s Madonna ad was shot in a classic Parisian bistro, the restaurant was actually located in Los Angeles — but the twist was perfect for a brand founded on a heritage of travel. PRADA 84.9 percent; Country: Italy This is a brand that expresses modern luxury more than the style of its native Italy, which may account for its lower score. Still, 85 percent of respondents immediately associated Prada with its native country. The Italian family history of the brand has a lot to do with its longevity: The Prada label is now nearly 100 years old. In 1913, Prada was first opened as a leather goods shop in Milan by Mario Prada, and the company 11 continues to be owned and run by the Prada family. Mario’s granddaughter, Miuccia, took over in 1978 and she and her husband, Patrizio Bertelli, now oversee the fashion empire, which includes not only Prada but Miu Miu, Church shoes and Car Shoe. BULGARI 83 percent; Country: Italy The luxury watch and jewelry company is based in Rome, but its name is actually a derivation of the surname of its Greek founder, Sotirios Voulgaris. The publicly held, yet still family-run, business, was founded in 1884: The company is celebrating 125 years this year. An exhibition, titled “Between History and Eternity,” will be held in Rome this spring to “celebrate both the founder, Sotirios Voulgaris, and the history shared by 12 Bulgari and the eternal city.” Bulgari is known for its cabochon gemstone jewelry — its designs feature bright, colorful jewels, such as tourmalines and emeralds — but now also produces watches, leather goods, silk products and fragrances. source: “An International PErspecTIve on Luxury Brand and Country of Origin Effect” study, published December 2008; lead authors: Professor Gaetano Aiello and Dr. Raffaele Donvito, University of FLorence, Italy; STUDY WAS SPONSORED BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO; COUNTRY OF ORIGIN IS DEFINED BY AUTHORS AS “THE COUNTRY THAT CONSUMERS TYPICALLY ASSOCIATED WITH EACH PRODUCT OR BRAND, REGARDLESS OF WHERE IT WAS MANUFACTURED”; NEARLY 200 CONSUMERS WORLDWIDE (MALE AND FEMALE) WERE SURVEYED; *Indicates a Tie 18 WWD, thursday, april 2, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com.

Lundgren’s Pay, Macy’s Credit Drop 10 Best Performers By Evan Clark firms outperformed the S&P Retail Index, which increased 1.4 percent, or DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt The recession hit Macy’s Inc.’s 3.99 points, to 297.65. The Dow Jones credit rating Wednesday, as well as the Industrial Average advanced 2 percent, High Low Last %Change pay package of chairman, president and or 152.68 points for the day, to 7,761.60. chief executive officer Terry Lundgren. While Macy’s highest-paid executive, Lundgren’s compensation fell 37.2 Lundgren’s merchandise discounts came 0.64 0.30 Casual Male (CMRG) - 181400 0.63 +28.57 percent to $5.4 million last year as the to $28,542, below the $31,625 of executive retailer posted a $4.8 billion loss. The vice president and chief financial officer 0.53 0.42 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 1472699 0.53 +26.19 loss included a $5.38 billion impairment Karen Hoguet and the $30,058 of vice charge to write off part of the value of chair Thomas Cole. Hoguet’s total com- the May Department Stores Co. acqui- pensation fell 15.3 percent to $2.4 mil- 1.74 1.33 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 521389 1.72 +22.86 sition as Macy’s stock price and market lion as Cole’s dropped 33.7 percent to capitalization sank. $2.3 million. 1.46 1.19 Crocs (CROX) - 3140702 1.46 +22.69 Lundgren’s package in- Top executives at cluded a salary of $1.5 mil- Urban Outfitters Inc. and 1.88 1.47 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.1 241468 1.86 +22.37 lion, unchanged from a year AnnTaylor Stores Corp. ago; stock and option awards booked pay increases last 7.55 5.95 Macerich (MAC) 2.5 7286660 7.31 +16.77 valued at $2.5 million, and wwD year, according to other incentive pay of $900,000, as proxies filed with the SEC. well as $117,406 for aircraft Urban Outfitters’ ceo 2.22 1.88 Zale (ZLC) - 693100 2.22 +13.85 usage and $297,958 for a car INDEX Glen Senk received a 28.7 and driver, a precaution rec- percent bump in total pay 2.23 1.75 Saks (SKS) - 3982871 2.12 +13.37 ommended by a security re- Composite last year to $3.2 million. view, according to a company 688.86 Senk’s salary rose 33.9 per- 0.40 0.34 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 38507 0.39 +11.43 filing with the Securities and cent to more than $1 million, Exchange Commission. but his bonus fell to $5,000 3.94 3.38 New York & Co. (NWY) - 734625 3.90 +9.86 Macy’s filing occurred from $250,000 last year. The hours before Moody’s ceo’s non-equity incentive Investors Service lowered plan compensation more debt ratings for the re- than tripled to $1 million, tailer as well as its rival while his stock rewards 10 Worst Performers J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and as- were valued at $1.2 million. signed both firms corporate +8.06 Shares of Urban DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt family ratings in specula- Outfitters fell 6.1 percent to tive, or junk, territory. The $15.38 Wednesday after the High Low Last %Change corporate family ratings in- company said in its annual dicate the companies are subject to “sub- report that its comparable-store sales stantial credit risk,” according to the debt trend so far this fiscal year had declined 0.34 0.30 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 597 0.30 -18.88 watchdog’s rating scale. from the 3 percent expansion seen in Moody’s moved its rating on Macy’s the fourth quarter. senior unsecured notes to “Ba2,” in Sterne, Agee & Leach retail ana- 0.69 0.62 General Growth (GGP) 7.1 4216808 0.65 -8.45 speculative territory, from “Baa3,” the lyst Margaret Whitfield said she be- lowest investment grade rating, and the lieves comps for the first two months 2.90 2.66 American Apparel (APP) 14.6 1448646 2.71 -7.19 company was given a corporate family of the quarter are down 10 to 14 per- rating of “Ba2.” The outlook is stable. cent, and while first-quarter compari- 0.34 0.30 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 3.5 44250 0.33 -6.90 “The downgrade also reflects sons are tough for both of its brands, Moody’s expectation that Macy’s oper- Anthropologie is “likely being impacted 6.44 5.84 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 5.1 225195 6.01 -6.82 ating performance will continue to be by issues in the misses’ market.” pressured given the current challeng- At Ann Taylor, president and ceo Kay 15.71 14.91 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 13.2 15425581 15.38 -6.05 ing consumer spending environment,” Krill saw a 14.4 percent jump in total said Maggie Taylor, vice president and compensation last year to $7.8 million. senior credit officer at Moody’s. Krill’s salary grew $100,000, to almost 7.80 7.22 Kimco Realty (KIM) 9.8 9176897 7.22 -5.25 The drop-off in Macy’s performance $1.2 million, but her option rewards was largely due to weakness in consumer shrank 14.1 percent to $2.1 million and 1.40 1.28 Glimcher (GRT) - 187476 1.33 -5.00 spending and not any fundamental issue her incentive plan compensation was with the business, said the rating agency. $1.9 million versus $82,500 the year be- 9.15 9.13 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) - 700 9.14 -4.99 Moody’s cut its rating on Penney’s se- fore. Krill, who used $39,374 of $164,077 nior unsecured notes to “Ba1” from “Baa3” in other compensation benefits for car 0.84 0.79 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 73732 0.82 -4.65 and assigned the firm a corporate family service, saw her stock awards decline rating of “Ba1.” The outlook is stable. 19.6 percent to $2.5 million. “While J.C. Penney’s credit metrics are Ann Taylor said neither Krill nor any * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on expected to erode to levels more appropri- executive associates would receive sal- the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss ate for a mid-‘Ba’ rating, its very good li- ary increases in 2009. Including restruc- francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. quidity and historically conservative finan- turing, goodwill and asset impairment cial policies provide us with comfort that charges, the company posted losses of the company will successfully weather the $333.9 million last year. current economic storm,” said Taylor. Shares of the firm rose 1.5 percent to Shares of Macy’s rose 1.5 percent to $5.28 Wednesday. Burani Touts Goals Despite 2008 Declines $9.03 on Wednesday, as Penney’s stock — With contributions from By Andrew Roberts Dec. 31 gained 3.9 percent to 700 million increased 2.4 percent to $20.56. Both Alexandra Steigrad euros, or $1.03 billion, aided by the sale MILAN — Mariella Burani Fashion Group of 49 percent of bag division AP Bags SpA is confident of its medium- to long- SpA to private equity firm 3i, and the term prospects despite falling into the acquisitions of Mandarina Duck parent Oldham Adds to Allegations in Gap Suit red in 2008. Finduck Srl in July and accessories com- The group, whose holdings include pany Dadorosa Srl in 2007. Organic sales By Matthew Lynch he signed on with the company in 2007. Mandarina Duck and which has licens- rose 5.8 percent. Oldham’s firm further accused the retail- es with La Perla (ready-to-wear), John Earnings before interest, taxes, depre- The legal wrangling between er of wrongfully terminating their agree- Galliano (jewelry) and Aquascutum (foot- ciation and amortization increased 5.3 Todd Oldham and Gap Inc.’s Old Navy ment because he brought the initial suit. wear), among others, said Wednesday percent to 87.8 million euros, or $129.2 brand intensified this week when the Responding to the wrongful termina- revenues grew 2 percent in the first two million. As of Dec. 31, the group’s net designer added wrongful termination to tion allegation, Gap Inc. spokeswoman months of this year and sales of its fall financial position totaled 238.5 million the list of allegations in a suit he filed Louise Callagy said the company was collections were encouraging. euros, or $316.7 million, representing a against the retailer earlier this year. confident in its ability to defend itself. “We expect to continue to create value debt-to-equity ratio of 0.81. Oldham and his company, L-7 Designs “Todd failed to provide any meaning- for our shareholders, at both an operat- MBFG added that it and leather goods Inc., first brought legal action against ful input in the design process as well ing and strategic level,” MBFG chief ex- unit Antichi Pellettieri SpA had appoint- Old Navy in federal court in Manhattan as failed to meet contractual obliga- ecutive officer Giovanni Burani stated. ed financial advisers for their proposed on Feb. 18, two days before he parted tions,” she said. “To be very clear, Todd The group reported net losses of 55.2 merger. ways with the company after a 17-month Oldham joined on as a consultant, not a million euros, or $81.2 million, in 2008, After producing its rtw line in-house stint as creative director. Oldham filed full-time employee.” compared to net profits of 16.8 million for more than 10 years, MBFG licensed the initial suit under seal, but said it al- Old Navy responded to Oldham’s euros, or $23 million, in 2007. It will not the rights to produce and distribute the leged breach of contract and fraud. first suit on March 10 with its own coun- issue a dividend. collection to Bologna-based La Perla in This week, L-7 said the allegations ter claim, also filed under seal, which Dollar figures were converted at av- December. A new creative director is ex- stemmed from Old Navy’s failure to nego- accused Oldham of breach of contract. erage exchange rates for the periods to pected to be announced soon to succeed tiate a licensing agreement for the Todd Callagy said the company denied all al- which they refer. Alessandro Dell’Acqua, whose contract Oldham-branded line it announced when legations in the designer’s suit. Revenues for the 12 months through expired with the spring season. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 2, 2009 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. Spaces UNITED STATES BANKRUPTCY COURT FOR THE DISTRICT OF DELAWARE DIRECTOR OF SALES Int’l fashion designer seeks Sales Dir. COMMERCIAL In re ) Chapter 11 with min 10 years exp. Must have Int’l EVERYTHING BUT WATER, LLC, et al., ) Case No. 09-10649 (MFW) experience + est’d relationships with REAL ESTATE Debtors. ) (Jointly Administered) top dept. + specialty stores. Send resume to: [email protected] NOTICE OF AUCTION SALE AND HEARING ON CONSIDERATION Stephan & Co. - Product Development Manager OF APPROVAL OF SALE OF DEBTORS’ ASSETS FREE AND HANDBAG/ACCESSORY CLEAR OF ALL LIENS Major NYC Fashion Jewelry company needs Prod Development Manager •Min 5 years experience in Fashion Jewelry product development SALESPERSON WANTED PLEASE TAKE NOTICE that on February 25, 2009 (the “Petition Date”), Everything •Experience & capable of travel overseas to source & work w/ factories Major NYC Accessory Company Seeks But Water, LLC and Just Add Water, Inc., the Debtors, fi led voluntary petitions under Chap- Exp’d Salesperson with Relationships ter 11 of the Bankruptcy Code in the U.S. Bankruptcy Court, District of Delaware. •Good understanding of customer profile, creative & able to spot new trends servicing Dept/Mid-Tier/Mass Retail- PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE •Excellent leadership skill to oversee & direct design dept ers. Opp to sell globally recognized Showrooms & Lofts that Debtors have fi led a motion (the “Motion”) brands into the US Market. Huge op- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS seeking to sell substantially all of their assets, free and clear of all Liens in accordance with a •Good people skill; work well w/ sales people to develop product suitable portunity to create a $10M+ business Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Purchase Agreement, subject to higher and better offers. The Debtors have requested that the for each customer in this category. Base Salary + Comm. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Court fi x certain dates and deadlines in connection with the Sale, including objections to the email: [email protected] Sale on April 23, 2009 at 12:00 p.m. (EDT), objections to adequate assurance on April 29, •Detailed and thorough in project follow-up w/ factories 2009 at 12:00 p.m. (EDT), an Auction on April 27, 2009 at 10:00 a.m. (EDT) to consider Qualified candidates send resume to: [email protected] any higher and better offers in accordance with the Bidding Procedures, and a hearing on HAT SALES REP April 30, 2009 at 12:00 p.m. (EDT) to consider approval of the Purchase Agreement or any Contemporary Hat Manufacturer, higher and better offer. Christys’ Crown Series, seeks experienced PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE Sales Rep for Midwest, SE, and NW that the Motion seeks approval of the potential CAD ARTISTS territories. Email resume to: 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes assumption and assignment of some or all of the executory contracts and leases set forth on [email protected] Exhibit B to the Motion, as may be designated under the Purchase Agreement. The Debtors Needed Freelance Cad Artists At Once Menswear Showrooms have requested that the Court direct all non-debtor parties to the Assigned Contracts elec- must be expert at PhotoShop. D. Levy Adams & Co. #212-679-5500 tronically fi le with the Clerk of the Bankruptcy Court a “cure claim,” setting forth all claims Email: [email protected] SALESPERSON and arrearages against the Debtors due under such Assumed Contract by April 10, 2009 at Associate Designer - Fabric/Print Designer look, costume jewelry is seek- 5:00 p.m. (EDT). Any party that is required to fi le a Cure Claim, but fails to do so, shall be ing a competent salesperson. Salary+ bound by the cure amount in the Motion and shall be forever barred from asserting any other Development comm. Email: [email protected] Cure Claim(s) against the Debtors, their estates the Purchaser, etc. Experienced Bookkeeper PLEASE TAKE FURTHER NOTICE, that copies of the entire sale package are avail- Candidate must have minimum 2 Major NYC Accessory Co. seeking years of job experience in all bookkeeper w/knowledge & experi- SALES REP able from Julie D. Dyas, Esq. at Halperin Battaglia Raicht, LLP, (212) 765-9100 or jdyas@ ence in wholesale accessory business, Award-winning designer lingerie halperinlaw.net and inquiries regarding the assets for sale should be directed to Jeffrey aspects of Fabric/Print Develop- import documents, A/R and A/P. brand requires multiple line sales rep Brandon at Waller Capital Partners, the Debtors’ proposed asset disposition advisors, at ment. Creative ability with techni- Accounting Software Proficiency a to cover East Coast accounts. Strong (212) 632-3600 or [email protected]. cal skills necessary, proficient in MUST. [email protected] specialty store & high end department ELLIOTT GREENLEAF store base required. Regular travel HALPERIN BATTAGLIA RAICHT, LLP Photoshop and Illustrator. Strong across East Coast is very large part of role. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Counsel to the Debtors background in CAD, repeats, fab- Email resume: [email protected] ric sourcing/ tracking, strike-off PRODUCTIONS TECHNICAL DESIGNER...... $60-75K All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. approval, vendor meetings and Full Fashion Sweaters/Illustrator SALES-SWEATERS Call Sherry 212-719-0622. creativity! Great opportunity. Jennifer Glenn/SRI Search Vertical sweater co. seeks sales pro for Please send cover letter and 212-465-8300 x302 Junior & Missy Sweaters. Must have [email protected] strong contacts w/Dept. Stores, Chains, PATTERNS, SAMPLES, resume to: Majors, & Catalogs. Min 5 yrs exp. Line Design from Concept to Sample, [email protected] Send resume: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS Merchandising and Business Consulting Full service shop to the trade. By Experienced Designer Manufacturer Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. T 212 252 9370 | E [email protected]

SALES ASSOCIATE Variazioni - SoHo. FT/PT. Call 917-573- 8405. E-mail: [email protected]

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Results oriented Sr. Sales Account Exec- utive sought to drive and develop our high end retail account openings. Luxury Department store experience DESIGNER AVAILABLE required. Position based in Manhattan Recession inspired designs! Very w/ 25% travel. Tremendous opportunity to unique approach! Freelance (lines develop & drive the business. Fax or email designed). ALL categories of resume & cover letter to: (315)364-8075 menswear. Exp’d. Proven track record. [email protected] Lets talk! Send contact info to: [email protected]

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