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Marguerite Yourcenar: Piranesi at Petite Plaisance

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Marguerite Yourcenar: Piranesi at Petite Plaisance 134 Marguerite Yourcenar: Piranesi at Petite Plaisance By Carl Little When I moved to Mount Desert Island with my family in 1989, we lived in the first house on the left on Oak Hill Road, in what we came to call, with a smile, "downtown Somesville." The property, my mother’s, backed onto Brookside Cemetery, one of the most charming and idyllic sites of final repose in New England. Not long after settling in, I learned that the world-famous novelist Marguerite Yourcenar (1903–1987) was buried there alongside her longtime companion and translator, Grace Frick (1903–1979). Interested in literary things, I set out to learn more about this writer who, in 1981, was the first woman to be admitted to the French Academy since it had been founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1635.1 I started by reading her masterwork, Memoirs of Hadrian, and wrote a short review of it for the Somesville Library and Mount Desert Island Historical Society newsletter, Betwixt the Hills. First published in 1951, the book takes the form of an extended letter written by the dying Roman Emperor Hadrian to his adopted grandson, Marcus Aurelius. Hadrian reigned from 117 to 138 AD. The book demonstrates Yourcenar’s special genius for reviving the past.2 In my review, I noted how parts of the book were relevant to our times. "If one substitutes presidents for emperors, the following statement seems as applicable to our country as it is to ancient Richard Estes, Marguerite Yourcenar, Oil on canvas, Rome: ‘experience shows that in spite of our infinite 1985, 95 by 45½ centimeters, FNAC 35381, Centre national des arts plastiques Dépôt du Centre national Previous page: Giovanni Battista Piranesi, Avanzi del Tempio del Dio des arts plastiques au Sénat depuis 2009, ©Richard Canopo della Villa Adriana in Tivoli (Remains of the Temple of the Estes/CNAP. Courtesy of the artist God Canopus at Hadrian’s Villa in Tivoli), from Vedute di Roma (Views of Rome), 1768, etching, Yale University Art Gallery, New Haven. https://artgallery.yale.edu/collections/objects/178353 135 care in choosing our successors, the mediocre The couple started looking at emperors will always outnumber the wise, and properties on the island in the summer that at least one fool will reign per century.’"3 of 1948, and they purchased a house in Over time, I learned more about Yourcenar. I Northeast Harbor in 1952. French literary read her books, including her remarkable tribute to critic Matthieu Galey, who interviewed the eighteenth century Italian artist Giovanni Battista Yourcenar at her Maine home in the Piranesi (1720–1778), and wrote about her on several 1970s, likened Petite Plaisance to an occasions. In a review of Yvon Bernier’s book about "idyllic shepherd’s cottage of the past Petite Plaisance, Yourcenar’s home in Northeast century: all wood, modest but livable, Harbor, I expressed regret at having arrived on comfortable without affectation, full of Mount Desert Island the year after her death and books and other well-used objects—it offered a fantasy account of meeting the great writer: is a house that is lived in, in which even the least significant item has its special It’s in the Northeast Harbor Library or perhaps history or symbolic importance."7 at the Colonel’s bakery, and I introduce myself, Yourcenar told Galey that no one was speaking the French I have recently acquired sure exactly when the house was built, but through graduate studies at Middlebury she dated it to around 1866, "rather old College. Yourcenar is pleased with my accent for this island, which had few dwellings and appearance and invites me home for tea. on it until the middle of the nineteenth We sit in her kitchen …and speak of Piranesi’s century." She reported that the wood used prison series, of Hadrian, of Brookside to build it "was cut on the mountain ten or Cemetery (where, I tell her, my children play fifteen miles from here and floated down hide-and-seek among the tombstones).4 on the sort of glacial fjord [Somes Sound] that cuts the island almost in two."8 Born in Belgium and raised in France, Mount Desert Island would become Yourcenar first came to the United States in Yourcenar’s refuge, her home base, to 1937, to live with Grace Frick. She and Frick which she would, over the years, return spent several years in Hartford, Connecticut. from her extensive travels. While she didn’t Frick was academic dean at Hartford Junior attach "a great deal of importance to the College and then taught at Connecticut College, house itself," it served, she said, "as an and Yourcenar lectured on French literature asylum, a cell for self-knowledge, as Saint and taught part-time at Sarah Lawrence. "They Catherine of Siena might have said."9 spent their first ‘married’ years there," writes Petite Plaisance would prove to be Yourcenar’s biographer Josyane Savigneau.5 the perfect place for writing; Yourcenar The women spent their first summer on Mount completed two of her most acclaimed Desert Island in 1942. Some of their earliest books, Memoirs of Hadrian and The stays were in a small cabin on Brookside Road, Abyss, while in residence, and many of which runs into the cemetery where their her other works were composed and/ ashes would eventually be interred. They were or edited there. In her notes, she wrote enchanted by this "storybook" setting.6 about the creation of Memoirs of Hadrian, 136 she recalled how, on December 26, 1950, was often called by her neighbors, was part of the "on an evening of freezing cold and in community. She came to embrace her life on the the almost polar silence of Mount Desert island in many ways, from inviting neighbors over to Island off the Atlantic shore," she strived, celebrate the new year with eggnog, to watching the sunrise from the summit of Cadillac Mountain.12 to live again through the smothering "That’s why I like living in very small towns heat of a day in July in the year 138 or villages," Yourcenar told Galey. "When the in Baiae, to feel the weight of a sheet grocer comes to make a delivery, he’ll stay on weary, heavy limbs, and to catch and have a glass of wine or cider with me, the barely perceptible sound of that when he has the time." She continued: tideless sea as from time to time it reached a man whose whole attention I have as much respect and esteem for my was concentrated upon other cleaning woman as I might have for a sister. murmurs, those of his approaching In the summertime, children from the death. I tried to go as far as the kindergarten come every now and then to last sip of water, the last spasm of play in the yard. The gardener who tends pain, the last image in his mind. the property across the way is a friend who Now the emperor had but to die.10 comes over when it’s cold to visit with me and to drink a cup of coffee or tea.13 Yourcenar’s remarkable novella "An Obscure Man" (1982), one of her favorite Yourcenar’s involvement in the community works, is partly set on Mount Desert included activism. At one point, she carried a sign Island, in the early seventeenth century, protesting the Vietnam War in a march in Bar not long after the destruction of a colony Harbor. She recounted: "People passed us by; they of French Jesuits by the English. The island weren’t terribly interested in our little group of also found its way into her dreams. In men and women wearing sandwich boards."14 Dreams and Destinies, she notes that on Yourcenar credited the island with nurturing the night of April 12–13, 1970, she dreamt her growth as a writer—and enhancing her that she found herself on a road, "roughly appreciation of the natural world. "It was here the one extending from Northeast Harbor on Mount Desert Island that I began to take a to Seal Harbor," seeking to "arrive at the greater interest in trees and animals, in the natural shore of this last locality in order to lie environment as a whole," she told Galey.15 down beside the water." By the "hills and The author’s strong connections to the greater little lake of the Rockefeller property," Mount Desert Island region are highlighted she discovered "a horde of wild horses."11 in a short film, L’Isle heureuse (Happy Island), Despite what some commentators made in 1984 by her companion Jerry Wilson. and biographers have argued, Yourcenar In the film, Yourcenar visits Birdsacre, an avian did not live an isolated life, holed up rehabilitation center in Ellsworth, where an owl in a small house on a back street in perches on her arm. She also travels to Sutton Northeast Harbor. "Madame," as she Island, one of the Cranberry Isles, to visit the grave 137 The figures in the photograph are (left to right): John Reynolds (2), John Reynolds (1), Madame Yourcenar, and Louis Reynolds. They are standing in front of the Manset fishing house on the Stanley Fish Wharf, which was used to keep accounts for buying lobsters and for selling gasoline to the boats. Grace Frick, Marguerite Yourcenar with Three Portuguese Sailors, ca. 1943–1944, black-and- white photograph, 3½ by 5½ inches. Courtesy of Petite Plaisance of her friend, poet Hortense Flexner (1885–1973), of small things with her island neighbors, whose poems she had translated into French.16 often with the least sophisticated of From the time of the publication of Memoirs them, has been a spiritual food."18 of Hadrian, Yourcenar was a literary celebrity.
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