The Best Full-Day 1 Tours
COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 7 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 8
d y u r h m e
The Best in One Day e s A t i - u l e
q a E
w
ya y s i
m s
e
r o
u a
Jew J
e
F s Ras El- Mosqu R M
n C Ceme
ansuri a O S
M
E - l
T
El-M E
V rihoho N e I DDerecerech YeriY t h L a U Church Synagogue Mosque r a
i i h f OLIVES O z
O a
p o f
r e f
a f m o a Full-Day Tours o H b
MOUNT OF M h o
o h
s l b
b e
c m
b
h
a h o
n a
o a m a
’ m ’ s
h
m Tomb of Tomb Zacharaiah T Z
e
o
o o
l
o l b
e i o i
Tomb of Tomb Bene Hezir T B )
Tomb of Tomb Jehoshaphat T J
h
Tomb of Tomb Absalom h T A
s e s
a
t a
H H
a
h h
c y c
G e
e r r r
e
m e s
e ’ D The Western Wall Western Wall shafts The Temple Mount Austrian Hospice Via Dolorosa Church of the Holy Sepulcher Lina’s Damascus Gate Jaffa Gate D The Haas Promenade Baba i t l
n The Best s o e e h e 3 4 3 7 i 3 1 2 5 3 6 8 9
r t u 11 10
e h
Y m h a p
c e M e Muslim r G e e
C Cemetery
D t
s
’
l
S l
e
e f
n f
.
o o
’
t ’ o a
i a
H
S H
Lion’s Gate Lion’s Gate) (St. Stephen’s L (
h
h
E c T c
e
e
n e t
r L r
N e
e e
a E
P D D d U l Gate G k H Laqlaq l
r M
BBuur Laqlaq e
O o THE T a
a E
p
y Golden G i
MOUNT M
P Park TEMPLE T
h O Opel
a
l a
k
Salahiya S c
3 o e R
m e o
h t Dome D
n h
f
a
k
i
s of the Rock o
e a
h
Hasan H
Sheikh Sheikh S g e n 1 t n u a o r s 2 Dung Gate D G e d t i
v R n
a e
E
n H i
a a D Davidson C Center
r T a ain s
am S
h H h - o l I
EEl-Hamr R u
r Misquausqua C C
d o
a a
l Ro e e .
a d A h Rd
a ac
a y Laadachd Rd. n W
i
a o l-WadW Roa
h d h
y AAl-
a a
i t t
M d m
- D U
l E
y
l E i
f o
e
w l JEWISH J a
a
h
i
o a u w
a Q QUARTER
h of
l e
h
a
Via Dolorosa Via
V t t
q
s
Khaldiya K
l
n s
s s
e e w -
a
l
w a
e a a o e
H
El- E
a r
h r al’ed i G
5 M
t t
Mawlawiya Mawlawiya Mosque h
M M
i M
Mawlawiya R S
S 3 4
Rihan e
-
i e
ar l -
l ak r a
EEl-Hakaril-H t
a
s e
a El- E ’ s
f l a
i t l E y a
a
B o e
h TTif e ’ E
a r y
M k i a
i r r r
e o i
l
q
a is
e
d
a e
o Y
R
u r
e o t d a h S r a u Q
h s
h i w - e Jewish Quarter Road Quarter Jewish
a J
T B
q k D
-
SSheikh s
W i
u t -
s l Es-Saraya E
l
Et-Taqiya
e E
’ AAl-Wad a o i
h
u
Via Dolorosa Via V r S L M Sheikh Lu’lu Mosque
e
h
z it
r
k
nes-Ze im k
ha c
b a
K a
q a
l
u l
SSuq Khanes-Zeit l y
a
t
a z
a a
t
u a
a T Jabz J u
- r
-
k - l l M M E E
l a
y azar a
r El-Tuta E r H l Ararat n A
p
B r B 8
a r -
o a e l - a
l t O
EEl- E M Holy Sepulcher H S a -
s t
e
i
z a e q
s s
s y s
SSt-Mark r
t a q
n a u
e e
u a
u
a n Suq El- Suq
K S Bazaar B
l- 6
c a
m E m
e
G Gate
Muristan M
a a
n h s
J
t J
l .
a K
h
a
t a
u -
i
l f
s . a S
h Rd
El-Khanqa E er t
t i p uar
u n Q o m
c tia
N s d St i S r
h . R
CChristian Quarter Rd. k
R R id St. St. id o i
r l
-
- i a
d
v r
r e a
E
o
A
h R
i a E E z D Damascus
I
t AArmenianrmenian PatriarchatePatriarchate RRdd r o
T
e
Dav D
e
t
Ethiopian t E
P Pool of Pool T e
g ge
r
o
3 7 a
R a e
H Hezekiah G Geor
k t St St S
S h
Patriarchate P e
l
c 10
I A
e
r
e r
a
.
R i
Greek Greek
U G d t r
t
S a
a i H
r 3 t Q QUARTER
t 11 s i Patriarchate Rd. Patriarchate P i
i m C
CHRISTIAN CHRISTIAN iimitri . c C
-D d Citadel n a t a v SSt-D R
t a o te r N
a
c a
a 9
r F
s h
n
r . a c
t
m m i i
y
r y a a l l a a
h h r r s a s u u r r e e Y Y
t t a a
v v i e i t t a a H
e H
e
C e a St. Francis St. Francis St. S
t
t i
Terra Terra Sancta T S t e
e r
P P t
- -
t
t a a
S
PS m i e G
n n
d
a a
h a
n f
a L
f a
r z
t
s a e a
t d s
t
Jaffa Gate J Jaffa t
S t Hatzahanim H a f
e e
o r n t
R a 1/10 mi a Ro e
G r Arts and A
m New fa C Crafts Lane Crafts C
a f JJaa D &
e
w t e h r e a t c r
l N New G Gate o a u h Notre Dame Notre N t c h i
a n Church & Center Church C p l l
e i s r
l o m French French i Yisra’e F vte a Hospital SShivteihi Yisra’el H 0 0 0.1 km
MMamilla
Previous page: Walking along the Western Wall shafts.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 8 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 9 The Best in
d ay 1 focuses almost exclusively on the Old City, which y u r h m e e s contains most of the historic and sacred sites for which Jerusa- A t i - u l
e D
q a E
w
y s i
m lem is justly famous as a pilgrimage destination for Jews, Christians, s
e
r o u a
J
e
F s R M
n C a and Muslims. We start with the Western Wall, which is an integral O S
M
E - l T
E part of the Temple Mount revered by all three religions. City Tour One Day V riho N e I Derech Y t h L a U r a
i i
h Bus 99 (see p 15) is recommended as a traveling observation plat- f O z
O a
p o f
r e f
a f m o a o H b
M h o
form from which to view and gain perspective of both the Old and
o h
s l b
b e
c m b
a h o
n a o m a
m ’ s
h m T Z
e
o New cities—before ending up at the Haas Promenade, the station- o
o l b e
o i T B )
T J
T A h
e s
t a ary outlook providing the most comprehensive panorama of the H
a
h y c
G
e r
r START: Dung Gate. e walled city. m s e ’ i D t l
n s o e e ih e r t u
e h
Y m h a p
c e e M r G loss of their Temple. This is the holi- e e
C
D t s
’ l Travel Tip
S
e
n f est of Jewish sites, a sizable rem-
. o
t ’ o i a
S H
L (
h nant of the monumental retaining
Cabs are the way to go to get E
T c e
n e t L r
N e e
a
E wall that still supports the Temple P D between stops on this tour—less d U l G k H Laqlaq l
r M Bur e O o
T Mount. After 1948, when the Old a expensive than renting a car and
a E
p
y G i
M
P T h O
a almost as cheap as public transit for City was controlled by Jordan, Jews l a
k S c
two people. In wintertime, there are were denied access to this site; o e R
m
e fewer daylight hours before sunset, since 1967, Israeli policy has been o
h t D
n h
f
a to permit free access to worship for
k when you want to be at the end of
i
s o
e a h
H all religions at all holy sites. Visitors S the tour. Take a hat and drinking g e n t n u a of all religious faiths are welcome to
o water, no matter what the season. r s D G e d t i approach the Wall to pray, medi-
v R n
a e
E
n H i
a a D C tate, or stuff a small note into a
r T a s
am S
H h - o l I ★★★
E R u
r Misqua
C 1 The Western Wall.
d
o crack between the stones; these a a
l Ro e .
a d A h Rd a ac
a y Lad n W
i a o l-W
d h
y A a a
i t
M d m
- D U
l E
y l Known in Hebrew as HaKotel E i
f o
e “messages to God” (Pope Benedict
w l J a a
h
i
o a u w
a Q
h
l e h
a
V t q
s K
l
n s HaMa’aravi (or simply the Kotel), it
s s e w -
a
l XVI [1927–] delivered one) are col- w a a o e a
H
E a r
h al’ed i G
t M
M M h
i
M R
S has also been called the “Wailing
e
-
i e
ar l lected monthly. Men must wear a -
l ak r a
El-H t
a
s e
a E ’ s
f l a
i t l E y a
a
B o e
h T e ’ E
a r Wall,” since Jews here mourn the y
M k i a
r hat or head covering; simple ones
i r r
e o i
l
q
a is
e
d
a e
o Y
R
u r
e o t d a h S r a u Q
h s h i w - e a J
T B
q k D
-
S s
W i u t -
s l E l
e E
’ A a o i h u V Men praying at the Western Wall. r S L M
e
h
z it
r
nes-Ze im k
ha c
b
K a q a
u l
S l y a
t
a z
a
t
u a
a T J u - r
k - l M E l y a a r E r H l n A
p r B
a r -
o a e l - a
l t O
E E M H S a -
s t e
i
z a e q
s s y s
S r t a q
n a u e
u a
u a n
K S l- B
c
a E m e
G
M
a
n h s
t J
l . a K
h a
t a u - i
l f s . a S
h Rd
E er t
t i p uar u n Q o m
c tia
N s d i S r
h . R
C k
R o i
r l
- i a
d
v r e a
E o
A
h R i a E z D
I
t Armenian Patriarchate Rd r o
T
e
D
e
t
E t
P T e
g
r
o
R a a e
H G
k t
S
S h
P e
l
I c A
e
r
e r
a
.
R i
U G d t r
t
S a
a i
H r t
Q t s i P i
i m C i .
c -D d C n a t a v S R
t a o te r N a
c a a r F
s h
n
r . a c
t
m i r y a l
a h r a s u r e Y
t a
v e i t a
e H
C e a S
t i
T S t
e r
P t
-
t a a
PS m i e G
n n
d a a h a
n f
a L
f a r z
t
s a e a
t d s
t J t
S t H a f e e
o r n t a R a e
G r A m New fa C C a f Ja D & e w t e h r e a t c r l N G o a u h N t c h i
a n C p l l
e i s r l o m i Yisra’e F vte a Shi H
M
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 9 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 10 Full-Day Tours The Best
The Al Aqsa Mosque at the Temple Mount.
are available at no cost from a box seniors. Sun–Thurs 8am–dusk, Fri & beside the entrance to the prayer eve of festivals 7am–noon; closed area. Women should be modestly Sat & most Jewish holidays. Tours dressed. The right-hand section of can be arranged by making an the Wall Plaza is for women, who appointment with the Western Wall are not allowed in the men’s section Generations Center (y *5958, (as per Orthodox Jewish tradition); http://english.thekotel.org). however, a man and woman (or family) can pray together at the Wall on their respective sides of the bar- Travel Tip rier. Smoking is disrespectful in the The 4-digit phone number, pre- prayer area; no photography is per- ceded by a *, is a dialing shortcut mitted on the Sabbath and most that many companies provide for Jewish holidays. @ 1 hr. Free the convenience of their customers. admission. 2 ★★ Western Wall shafts. 3 ★★ The Temple Mount. The Wall is actually much deeper Israel has turned over control of the and longer than the part we can Temple Mount and its mosques to readily see today; for an idea of the the Muslim Religious Authority (the original, enter the doorway located Waqf), except for maintaining secu- between the men’s restrooms and rity. Access (up the ramp from the the public telephones on the plaza’s Western Wall Plaza) is free of northern side; shafts have been charge. It is sacred to Jews as the sunk along the Wall to show its true site of ancient Israel’s Temples and depth and ground levels in Herodian to Muslims as the place from which 1 and Crusader times. @ ⁄2 hr. Admis- Muhammad ascended to Heaven. sion NIS 25 adults, NIS 15 children &
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1010 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 11 The Best in Temple Mount One Day
3C DDomeome ofof thethe RockRock
(Closed(Closed toto vvisitors)isitors) 3B
3D 3A 3E 0 100 yds
0 100 m
s ★ Al Aqsa Mosque is the Muslims believe the rock housed third-holiest place of prayer for Mus- within is the altar where Abraham lims after Mecca and Medina. To the almost sacrificed his son Isaac. The southeast of the building is a corner Waqf frequently closes the interiors in the Temple Mount walls; some of the Al Aqsa Mosque and Dome of say this is the “pinnacle of the Tem- the Rock (as well as the Islamic ple” where Satan took Jesus to Museum v and Solomon’s Stables 1 tempt him. From here is a view w) to tourists. @ ⁄2 hr. plus possi- of the Mount of Olives and its bly up to 1 hr. waiting time in line. churches. t ★★ El-Kas is the May to Oct, Sun–Thurs 7:30–11am & fountain with faucets where Mus- 1:30–2:30pm, Nov to Apr, Sun–Thurs lims perform their ritual ablutions; 7:30–10am & 11:30am–1:30pm; best the circular row of pink marble seats to arrive an hour ahead of closing is off-limits to non-Muslims. The time. The Temple Mount is closed to exterior of the u ★★★ Dome of non-Muslims on Fri (the Muslim Sab- the Rock was tiled by Sultan Sulei- bath) & Muslim holidays; it is open man (1520–1566) in the 16th cen- only morning hours during the holy tury. In 1994, Jordan’s King Hussein month of Ramadan. Modest dress is (1935–1999) had the dome gilded enforced; even men with shorts too with 24-karat gold. Jews and short may be denied admission.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1111 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 12 Dolorosa itself—most of whose Leaving the Western Wall Plaza route coincides with the alleys of along Al-Wad Street to the north will the Arab souk, or bazaar—have bring you to the Austrian Hos- 4 been set in a semicircular pattern to pice at the eastern edge of the Via mark those Stations directly on the Dolorosa. The coffee shop, located street. Other Stations are behind in a garden, is a remarkably tranquil closed doors; knock and someone
Full-Day Tours oasis in the relative austerity of the will probably be there to open up Old City; it is justifiably famous for for you. Each Friday at 4pm, monks its delicious apple strudel. Kosher lead a procession for pilgrims, some food options can be found on the carrying crosses, along the Via Dolo- Jewish Quarter side of the Plaza. 37
The Best 1 y rosa. (See p 39, and sidebar, for Via Dolorosa 37. 02/626-5800. $. details and descriptions of the Sta- tions.) There are free restrooms at 5 ★★★ Via Dolorosa. The Latin several spots along the route. @ 1 literally means Sorrowful Path, tradi- hr. The Via Dolorosa never closes, tionally believed to be the Way of but it is not advisable to be here at the Cross followed by Jesus bearing night. the instrument of his death to Cal- 6 ★★★ Church of the Holy vary, the site of the Crucifixion. Over Sepulcher. The church contains the centuries, millions of pilgrims the last four Stations of the Via have come here to walk the way Dolorosa and is divided among the their Lord trod and to pray at the 14 six oldest Christian sects: Roman Stations of the Cross. The Via Dolo- Catholic, Armenian Orthodox, Greek rosa begins in the Muslim Quarter, Orthodox, Egyptian Coptic, Ethio- in the northeast corner of the Old pian, and Syrian Orthodox. Each City, and winds its way to the denomination has its own space Church of the Holy Sepulcher in the (down to lines drawn in the middle Christian Quarter. Each Station is of floors and pillars) and schedule of marked by a small sign or a number times to be in other areas of the engraved in the stone lintel over a church. The oft-changing partitioned door. Paving stones on the Via interior is a mixture of Byzantine
Nuns along the Via Dolorosa.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1212 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 13 The Best in traditions. Most notable are the Ser- vice of the Holy Fire (See p 5, 7), the dramatic pageant called the Washing of the Feet, and the exotic midnight Ethiopian procession on
the part of the church under Ethio- One Day pian jurisdiction—the roof. Modest dress required. @ 1 hr. y 02/627- 3314. Free admission. Open daily May to Oct, 5am–9pm, Nov to Apr, 4am–8pm.
Time to taste the most popular dish in the Middle East—hummus. Israelis never tire of arguing which place makes the best hummus in Jerusalem: The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is Abu Shukri or Lina’s. I recommend divided among the six oldest Christian 7 Lina’s, where one bowl of hum- sects. mus with either fava beans or whole and Frankish Crusader styles. Inside chickpeas (and maybe a small side of the church are the Stone of Unction, falafel) mopped up with complimen- the marble slab where the body of tary fresh pita and raw vegetables Jesus was prepared for burial; the should be enough for two people to site of Calvary (the second floor); share—especially since dessert is de and a later marble tomb enclosing rigueur. Wash the hummus down the Cave of the Sepulcher. The with either fruit juice, lemonade, or church has been restored and is mint tea; beer works better but is ver- constantly being renovated. During boten on the Muslim side of town. Easter week, one can observe fasci- Lina’s, 42 Ikbat a-Hanaka St. (near nating services held here that are Station VIII of the Cross on Via Dolo- based on ancient Eastern church rosa). y 02/627-7230. $$.
Dressing Modestly in Jerusalem
It is a good idea in Jerusalem to be prepared to be dressed “modestly” in order to avoid any unpleasantness at holy places (churches, mosques, synagogues, and the Western Wall/Temple Mount), or if you wander into an ultra-Orthodox Jewish neighbor- hood or pass a church that looks worth a peek inside. Women are generally fine with sleeves that are at least elbow-length and skirts to the knees (or pants that are not tight-fitting). In the hotter months, if clothing is skimpier than this, it is a good idea to carry around a long scarf (an Arab kafiyyeh—headdress—works fine) to cover shoulders and upper arms and a wraparound long skirt (sometimes these things can be borrowed at entrances). Men can usually get by with short sleeves and Bermuda shorts (although shorts that convert into long pants might be a worthwhile investment).
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1313 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 14 becomes the covered Suq el Attarin, or Spice Bazaar. On the southern side of David Street, the bazaar morphs into the restored Cardo (see p 26), the main street of Roman and Byzantine Jerusalem, which runs through the rehabilitated Jewish
Full-Day Tours Quarter. @ 1 hr. Avoid this area at night. 9 ★★ Jaffa Gate. The exterior of the magnificent Jaffa Gate merges The Best into the outer section of the Tower of David to create the most photo- graphed and recognizable pan- orama of the Old City walls when viewed from the west. The gate A market stall near the Damascus Gate. took on its present form when it was widened by the Ottoman rulers 8 ★★ Damascus Gate and of Jerusalem to accommodate the the bazaars. Inside Damascus pilgrimage in 1898 of Germany’s Gate, the largest of the entrances to Kaiser Wilhelm II (1859–1941). The the Old City, are cafes, shops, and walls of Jerusalem, like the city market stalls lining a wide-stepped itself, are composed of stones used entrance street going downhill. again and again by successive civili- Whether you take El-Wad (the Val- zations and populations. Inside the ley) Road to the left or Suq Khan gate, on the left, is Jerusalem’s main es-Zeit (the Olive Oil Inn Market) to Tourist Information Office (y 02/ the right, the way becomes nar- 627-1422; www.goisrael.com), rower and confusing. Unlike the where visitors can pick up free maps 1 markets near the Jaffa Gate, which and informative literature. @ ⁄2 hr. cater primarily to tourists, this part 0 ★★★ = The Haas Prome- of the bazaar is an authentic market nade. The perfect way to cap any used by the people of East Jerusa- day of sightseeing in Jerusalem is to lem. Suq Khan es-Zeit eventually watch the city transform itself at
The Jaffa Gate.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1414 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 15 The Best in Round-the-City Tour on Bus 99
Egged’s (y *2800; www.egged.co.il/eng) red double-decker
bus (#99) travels a continuous route, making 28 stops at most major One Day sites throughout the united city; it is an unbeatable way to get ori- ented in Jerusalem. (Egged is the public sector company that oper- ates Jerusalem’s city buses.) Personal earphones give audio explanations in eight languages. One may board at any stop, although it is best to start at the Central Bus Station. The fare for the entire route is NIS 45 for adults; all-day passes allowing hop-on, hop-off privileges are NIS 65 for adults, but you have to coordinate reentering the bus with the route sched- ule. Tickets may be bought at many hotels (your hotel can also make a reser- vation for you, advisable during peak tourist seasons) or from the driver. The bus does not run late on Friday afternoons or at all on Saturdays.
Travelers can hop on and off of Bus 99 to get around the city.
dusk. Arguably the best vantage the electric lights begin to twinkle point is from the tayelet—prome- on, then head for dinner. Daniel nade—that runs along the first ridge Yanovsky St. south of the Temple Mount. The promontory at the eastern edge of the ridge is known to the Christian A good place for an introduction to ★ world as the Hill of Evil Counsel, Israeli cuisine is ! Baba; the where the high priest Caiaphus menu provides informative explana- determined to condemn Jesus. tions in English of popular Jerusalem Catch Jerusalem in all its glory while dishes. Lamb and chicken are good choices here. 31 Emek Refaim St. it is still light out, then stand trans- y fixed as the walls turn a golden hue 02/566-2671. $$. as the sun begins to set. Stay until
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1515 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 16 The Best in Two Days
d y u r h m e e s A t i - u 1 l e q E w
s m s e o a J Jewish e Ras El-Amud Mosque R M Cemetery C 1/10 mi Full-Day Tours
t Yerihhoo a ech Yeri r DerecDer i h h z
a
p i f e f f f m a a o o H o o
r o Mount of Olives Jerusalem Archaeological Park The City of David Hezekiah’s Tunnel The Valley of Kidron Fountain Coffee Shop & Restaurant Mt. Zion The Citadel of David Israel Museum The Shrine of the Book (Dead Sea Scrolls) Armenian Tavern h
l a b s e b b b a h o n s m c m m 3 6 3 1 2 5 3 4 7 8 9 m h e 11 10 b o a o o o e Tomb of Tomb Bene Hezir T B 0 0 0.1 km Tomb of Tomb Zacharaiah T Z Tomb of Tomb Absalom T A Tomb of Tomb Jehoshaphat T J The Best
5
h h
a a ’ ’
o o
l l
i
i Church Synagogue Mosque
h h
s s
a a
H H
h h
l l
c c
e e
e e
f f
r r
o o
’ ’ e e
a a
D D
H H
h
h
E c T c
e
e
n e t l
r L r
k
N e
e e a E r
e P D D d U Gate G a p H l
M P Park
O o THE T O Opel
E
l Golden G
MOUNT e M 4 s TEMPLE T
’
2 n
n n e u k t
r
c T f r D
3
a o I a
r e h R
e V
W S Warren’s Warren’s Shaft
m t
e
o H a e
A
z
h e k i a h ’ s
t
D Dome W D f
o of the Rock F O g
e n t
n Y a
u a s
o
T o
r
s Dung Gate D G I r
e
o d
l CITY OF DAVID C t i o
v R n
D
a e
E
n H
a i i D Davidson C Center
T a ain
S V
h h I
R Misquausquau C C
d
Roa a e e .
d A ach Rd
a y Laadachd Rd. W
l-WWad Roa i
h
Al-A h
t t d
m
U m
E
l
o f o
l
JEWISH l J a
h
a
o a
Q QUARTER
h of
e
h
t h t
seh s Khaldiya K
s s
e s e -
a a
l
e a
H H
El- E
Gal’ed
tre M
tr
h h
i
S
S
e
e
i e l
akar r l
a
El-HakariEl-H t a
e a
a ’ ’ s
f l a
i t l y
a a
a
Batei Mas Batei B o e
TTif e ’ E
a r y
M M
i a
r r r
o i
l
q
a is
d
a e
o Y R
r
e o t a S r a u Q
h
s i
w
- e Jewish Quarter Road Quarter Jewish J
T B
D -
s
t
Es-Saraya E
Et-Taqiya E
a i
Via Dolorosa Via V r N e
eit R
es-Z
han h K r k
q m k
u A
SuqS Khanes-Zeit i E
c
a a
a
I l
l y l
a
t z T
a a
t
u a
a T u
- r -
k - l l M M E E
l azar
y a a
r El-Tuta E H r N l Ararat A R
n
p
B r B
a r - o a
E
3 6 e l a
t
O A E M
e H S Holy Sepulcher a - s
t n
t i
z a M q
es U
s y s
St-MarkS r
a o q a
n a u
i
e e
a R
u
n Suq El- Suq S Q K QUARTER B
- Bazaar
Zion Gate l Z G
a
m E m
e
A ARMENIAN
M Muristan a a
n h
J t J
.
a K
h a t
-
N i R l
. f d S
R a a
h ter
El-Khanqa
E r a t i p Qu
k n o
tia 3 E s
d c ri
A h
d St ChristianC Quarter Rd. S 11
r . k
id St. St. id o i
) r l
u I f i
T d
v v e a s
a
h o i
o
h R i L a T . z s
P
e R n
t ArmenianArmenia Patriarchate Rd t n Patriarchate Rd
r
o
e
Da D
Y e T
o y E
t S
t
S o Ethiopian E
P Pool of Pool
e i
g
a ge r ’
I r o A a
e n a e H
Hezekiah n G i Geor s k z t
St St A S l
i h o
C
e t
Patriarchate e P l
v
l R
c
n U c m 7
U
B E
i Y e
r n i a k s
i
D a
a n t e e l r
p t
a a
H i
e a
V R Greek Greek h G K Q QUARTER p h d
l a
r
M r i
( 8 I u t
a t
e v e
a C F CHRISTIAN CHRISTIAN
i
a h i z R
rh t
s t
. H t R e K i a P
h Rd. Patriarchate v i
B c t om a
imitrii m .
l St. Francis St. Francis St. S C Citadel e S K
y D Hativat Etzioni Hativat d H
derot Ben Zvi r t- a
S k
e St-DS p R
D a
s te H
v a
r o h
a
h chc
t
e
g
a c m m
i i
y
r y a a l
k l a a
h h r r i s s u u r r
e e Y Y
t t a v a v v
i i
t t
a a
H
a H
e
e c e n o o
r t t
h r ia T
c e r h
N z t e
e r
n
r P c P r
a a t
- -
e t
s t a a
a e S a S P Park
a H
t P
d n Terra Terra Sancta
il T S
e G
h S Sacher C v
l
c e
a
hs m e r e t i
n s
o d
R a h
n a s s H d
a
n n
a f o i
r e o L
h p f a
r n
a p a R
W
a s z u u
s
K Knesset t d
Rt G t
Gate J Jaffa
S a e t a f
n
h
a e
o r
c 9 n
Hatzahanim H t 10 n g
m a
R t l
s a e a Roh o
u l rechr Ruppin G r A Arts and Z
p e w a S z e Ne f r
a na C DDe f Lane Crafts
K a n e
a s
JaJ c H
lm
e v
a i
e Y la n eh Bur a uda Z a
w r i t
a n d e e H a r r o - a N New G Gate T a To inset To area
u t am a o H G S. nim a
o B ’ l e l s i
m
a k M a z a B
l e l a z e B
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1616 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 17 The Best in second day in Jerusalem lets us delve deeper into his- A tory, as revealed by startling archaeological excavations at a
number of sites in and around the Old City. It’s here that the past d y u
r touches the present day, as you gaze upon the Dead Sea Scrolls or h m e e s A t i - u l e
q the room where Jesus is thought to have gathered with his disciples Two Days E w
s m s e o a J e for the Last Supper. West Jerusalem can best be explored with a Bus R M C 99 hop-on, hop-off ticket. START: Mount of Olives. t Yeriho a ech r Der i h h z
a
p i f e f f f m a a o o H o o
r o ★★★ h
would have proceeded through tun- l 1 Mount of Olives. The a b s e b b b a h o n s m c m m m h e
b nels to the Temple courtyard. Visi- o holiest places to Christians outside a o o o e T B T Z T A T J the walled city are found on the tors can stand on the Broad Stairs; slopes of this famous hill. It is explore Roman-era remains; and
revered as well by Muslims (as an see where the great staircase to the
h
a
’
o apocalyptic site) and Jews, whose Temple Mount once stood, sup- l i
h
s
a oldest cemetery in continuous use ported by a series of arches that
H
h
l c
e
e
f spanned the market street below.
r (except for 1949–1967, when the o
’ e
a
D
H
h The picture becomes clear at the
Jordanians encouraged its desecra-
E T c e
n e t l L r
k
N e e a E r
e park’s Davidson Exhibition Center, P D tion) covers the slopes. The views, d U G a p H l
M P
O o T
O both in the direction of the city and whose virtual tour depicts the area E
l G M e
s T
’
n as archaeologists believe it might
n the Judean Desert, are stunning. n e u k t
r
T 1 c f r D
@ 2 have appeared in Jesus’s time. ⁄ hr. See Mount of Olives & a o I a
r e h R
e
V
W S
m t
e Mount Scopus, p 90. Located in the ruins of an 8th-cen-
o H a e
A
z
h e k i a h ’ s
t
D W D f
tury Islamic palace, the Davidson o ★★★ F 2 Jerusalem Archaeo- Center contains a small museum O g
e n
t logical Park. The Jerusalem
n Y a
u a s with artifacts found at the site, as
o
T o r s D G I
r Archaeological Park consists primar-
e
o d l C
t
i well as videos and computer infor- o
v R n
D
a ily of the excavations at the Ophel, e E
H a in i D C mation on the Temple Mount’s his-
T a
S V h
I below the Southern Wall of the Tem-
R Misquau 1
C d tory. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Entrance between
Roa a e .
d A ach Rd a y Lad W
l-W i
A h ple Mount. In the era just preceding
t d
U m
E
l
f o the Western Wall Plaza & Dung Gate.
J l a h
o a
Q h e
t h and during Jesus’s ministry, this was
s K
s
e s -
a y
l 02/627-7550. www.archpark.org. e a
H E
Gal’ed
tr M
h the main route to the sacred enclo-
i
S
e i e
akar r l il. NIS 30 adults; NIS 16 students, a
El-H t
e a a ’ s
f l a
i t l y a
a sure. A broad staircase led to the B o e
T e ’ E
a r y
M
i a r children, & seniors. Sun–Thurs 8am–
r r
o i
l
q
a is
d
a e
o Y R
r
e o t a S r a u Q Hulda Gates, through which pilgrims h
s i
w
- e J
T B
D - s
5pm, Fri 8am–2pm; closed Sat & t
E
E a i
V r N e
eit R es-Z
han h K r
q m k
u A
S i E Visitors can explore Roman-era remains at the Jerusalem Archaeological Park. c
a
a
I
l y l
a
t z T
a
t u a
a T u
- r k - l M E l y a a r E H r N l A R n
p r B
a r - o a E e l a
t
O A E M
e H S a - s
t n
t i
z a M q
es U y s
S r a o q a
n a u i e
a R u n S
K Q
- B
l Z G
a E m
e
A
M a
n h
t J
.
a K
h a t -
N i R l
. f d S
R a
h ter
E r a t i p n Qu tia o E s
c ri
A h
d C S
. k o i r l
I i
T d v e a o i
h R i T a
. z
R
n
t Armenia t n Patriarchate Rd r o
e
D
e
t S
t
S o
E
P
e i
g
I r o A a a e H G s k z t
i S h t
P e
l R c
U c
E e
r
n e
r t
H a i a
Q G
d a r r t v
a C F i
a i
r t
t
. it P i
t im . a S D C - d H St R te a
h
a
c
t
a m i r y a l
a h r s u r e Y
t v a v i t a a H e c o e a
t i r
N t
e r n r a P t -
s t a a a e a PS T S
e
C G
m i n d n a
a n a f
L h f a
a
a s
z t d s t t
J
S a t a e f o r H t a a R t
G r w a A Ne f e
f C
Ja s e n a w i t
e e a r o N G T a
a l l i
m a
M
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1717 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 18
HolyPass—The Discount Pass for Jerusalem Sites
Visitors to Jerusalem can save some money by purchasing a HolyPass, which grants admission to five sites in the Old City (two Full-Day Tours “main” sites/attractions and three “secondary” ones). The pass costs NIS 99 for adults and NIS 50 for children. Once activated (upon its first use), the HolyPass is valid for 90 days. You may inquire at the Jaffa Gate Tourist Information Office about the Holy- The Best Pass or visit www.holypass.co.il.
Jewish holidays. 1-hr. audio tours of points of the City of David Archaeo- the center & park are available. logical Park are just downhill south- east from Dung Gate. y 02/626- 3 ★★ The City of David. It was 2341 or *6033. http://cityofdavid. to this area that King David, after org.il. Free admission. Daily tours in conquering the city and claiming it English (which may be booked in from the Jebusites, brought the Ark advance) cost NIS 55 & include Heze- of the Covenant—the pivotal first kiah’s Tunnel (see below, 4) & a 3D step in Jerusalem’s transformation movie. Sun–Thurs 9am–7pm, Fri into a holy city and the capital of 9am–3pm. Judah/Israel; here the ark rested until King Solomon built the Temple 4 ★★ Hezekiah’s Tunnel. In to house it. The City of David is now the 8th century BCE, King Hezekiah the scene of the most exciting constructed an underground aque- archaeological discoveries to shed duct through which the spring light on Biblical history. @ 1–2 hr. water that Jerusalem depended on The excavations & observation could be hidden from Assyrian and Babylonian invaders—an extraordi- Hezekiah’s Tunnel dates from the 8th nary engineering feat for the time. century BCE. The tunnel is still there—along with the Siloam Pool, whence water was drawn for Temple rituals— waiting for you to wade through it. The one-way journey through ankle- deep water (higher on children) takes about 40 minutes; bring water-friendly footwear of some kind. There is a shorter “dry” route that gives you almost the same feel- ing. Visitors exiting the tunnel need not climb back uphill; there is a fre- quent shuttle bus costing an extra NIS 5 (pay the driver). Entrance to the tunnel is from the City of David Archaeological Park. See 3 for phone number, website, open hours & fees.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1818 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 19 The Best in foot of the City of David and right in the middle of the present-day Arab neighborhood of Silwan—lies the vital Gihon Spring (known to Chris- tians as the Fountain of the Virgin),
Jerusalem’s only water source from Two Days pre-Biblical times until the Ottoman Empire. There are many ancient burial caves in this “Valley of God’s Judgment,” and several elaborate tombs, most of which can be viewed quite adequately from van- tage points on the Temple Mount and City of David. Archaeology buffs may turn to p 37 to get up close to these monuments. Admission to the Siloam Pool NIS 12 adults.
In the vicinity of the Old City, Arabic fare is the logical choice for lunch. There is much more to eat than An excavation in the Valley of Kidron. hummus: Middle Eastern salads and grilled meats, such as kebab and 5 ★★ The Valley of Kidron. shwarma, can be sampled at the This narrow valley, also known as 6 ★ Fountain Coffee Shop & the Valley of Jehoshaphat, runs Restaurant. Suq Efthemios Dab- between the Mt. of Olives and the bagha No. 62, Christian Quarter. walls of the Old City, extending past y 02/628-2191. $$. the City of David southward to join with the (east-west) Valley of Hin- ★★ nom and end together at the Hill of 7 Mt. Zion. Mt. Zion, which Evil Counsel (known to some as the dominates the southwest corner of Mount of Contempt), where Caia- the Old City, is home to several phas is said to have resolved to put important Christian sites, one dubi- Jesus to death (the regional head- ous Jewish one—and the place of quarters of the United Nations sits the eternal repose of a hero who is there today). In this valley—at the an inspiration to all mankind.
The Room of the Last Supper at Mount Zion.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 1919 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM
m
i
y G
a
a l
l a
’
e
h
d
s
u 20 r e Y
t a iv t a H
Mt. Zion PatriarchateP Rd a B seh t s AArmenian atei Ma
r
i
r
a
m
r
c
e
h AARMENIANRMENIAN
n
a
i
a
t
e
n QQUARTERUARTER
R
d
Full-Day Tours m ZionZion lo a HHativatativat EEtziotzionini h GateGate s a H CChristianhristian h e l CCemeteryemetery ’a a
The Best M
M a MMOUNTOUNT lk i T s ZIONZION e d e 7A k 7F 7B 7E 7C
7D CCatholicatholic M CemeteryCemetery a ’a le PProtestantrotestant h 0 100 yds Ha CemeteryCemetery sh alo m 0 100 m
The [ ★★ Room of the Last Sup- small stone on his grave (open per (Coenaculum) is believed to be Mon–Sat 8am–2pm). The % where Jesus celebrated his last Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu Passover Seder meal, with his disci- marks the place where tradition ples (open daily 8am–6pm). Below holds that the disciple Peter dis- this Upper Room is ] King avowed Jesus three times before David’s Tomb, venerated by some the cock crowed (open Mon–Sat as the burial place of the monarch, 8:30am–5pm). Mt. Zion’s most rec- although most scholars dispute this ognizable landmark is , ★ Haga (open Sun–Thurs 8am–5:30pm; Fri, Maria Sion (or Dormition) Abbey, Sat & holidays 7:30am–2pm). whose squat round tower is topped Nearby is the \ Chamber of the by a gray cone and four turrets. The Holocaust, a small, eerie private Benedictine convent is so named memorial to the Jewish victims of because it is believed Mary fell into the Nazis (open Sun–Thurs 9am– everlasting sleep here before her 3:45pm, Fri 9am–1:30pm; closed assumption into heaven. Free Sat). The ; ★ Roman Catholic admission to all sites. Dormition cemetery on Mt. Zion is the final Abbey hours: Mon–Sat 8:30– resting place of Oskar Schindler, 11:45am; Mon–Fri 12:30–5pm, Sat the hero of Schindler’s List; many 12:45–4:45pm; Sun 10:30–11:45am come to pay tribute by placing a & 12:30–5pm.
8 ★★ The Citadel of David. developed 800 years after David The citadel tower beside the Jaffa died. Three massive towers built by Gate is called the Tower of David, Herod originally stood on this spot; although historically this site was each of the subsequent rulers of
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2020 66/17/10/17/10 9:559:55 PMPM 21 The Best in Private Tour Guides
You may choose to hire a private guide to enjoy maximum flex-
ibility and focus on exactly the places and topics you want to get to Two Days know better. The following are recommended English-speaking guides, licensed by the State of Israel, along with areas of expertise (although each is qualified in any area): • Honey Stollman: Jerusalem, Dead Sea/Masada; y 077/751- 3412. • Suzanne Pomeranz: Introductory full-day tour, ramparts, Christian sites, Ramat Rachel; y 02/673-8192. • Hanitai Alyagon: In the footsteps of Jesus, reconstructing the historic battles of ancient and modern Israel, the Templers; y 052/422-6626. • Max Blackston: Millennia of history in and around Jerusalem, Herodion; y 02/567-1833. • Amir Cheshin: The Old City, Jewish-Arab relations, in the foot- steps of Mark Twain; y 050/533-6027. • Shmuel Browns: Underground Jerusalem (caverns and tun- nels), Herodion; y 02/561-0785. • Itamar Shapira: Yad Vashem and the Old City from both a Palestinian and Israeli perspective; y 054/808-7440. • Aram Khatchadourian: An expert on the Armenian quarter; y 050/335-1859.
Jerusalem—Romans, Byzantines, The Israel Museum boasts several Mamluk Muslims, Crusaders, and excellent collections. Ottoman Turks—rebuilt these fortifi- cations beside Jaffa Gate. The Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem now occu- pies the citadel, which is a fascinat- ing structure in and of itself, besides affording great views of the New and Old cities. @ 1 hr. y 02/626- 5333. www.towerofdavid.org.il. Admission NIS 30 adults; check for schedules of guided tours in English, included with admission. Sept–June Sun–Thurs 10am–4pm, Sat & holi- days 10am–2pm, closed Fridays; July & August Sat–Thurs 10am–5pm, Fri 10am–2pm. 9 ★★★ = Israel Museum. The Israel Museum boasts some of the most striking architecture in
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2121 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 22 Full-Day Tours The Best
The Shrine of the Book is the home of the Dead Sea Scrolls.
West Jerusalem, but it is the muse- 10am–5pm; Tues 4–9pm; Fri 10am– um’s incredible collections that are 2pm. The box office is closed on Sat, the real attraction. The Judaica but tickets may be purchased just Wing houses the greatest artistic outside the building from an autho- creations in the long history of the rized agent. Jewish religion, gathered from the 0 ★★★ The Shrine of the four corners of the earth. The Book (Dead Sea Scrolls). Under Archaeological Museum and the gleaming white parabolic roof, Garden contain ancient artifacts of contoured to resemble the clay jars almost unequalled historical impor- in which the Dead Sea Scrolls were tance, reflecting the antecedents, discovered, resides the permanent birth, and development of Judeo- home of the oldest known parch- Christian civilization. The Billy Rose ment documents in the Hebrew lan- Art Garden contains sculptures by guage. These scrolls, along with the Rodin (1840–1917), Picasso (1881– Bar Kochba letters from the time of 1973), and others, while the Floer- the Jews’ revolt against Rome, are sheimer Pavilion for Impressionist prized national and cultural trea- and Post-Impressionist Art features sures that are stored underground works by Monet (1840–1926), in case of enemy bombardment. Renoir—and other masters of the The Shrine also contains finds from genres. The Children’s Wing (see the legendary Dead Sea fortress of p 53) is dedicated to educating Masada; rare and priceless finds future generations about art and shedding light on ancient Israelite culture by means of entertaining history are added to this exclusive interactive programs. @ 1–2 hr. collection from time to time. Adja- Ruppin St. y 02/670-8811. www. cent to the Israel Museum (see 9). imj.org.il. Admission NIS 40 adults Admission included with the (dual- & multiple-entry tickets Museum. available). Sat–Mon, Wed & Thurs
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2222 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 23 The Best in Organized Tours
There are a number of tours available—some even free of
charge—that can enhance any visit. The following private compa- Two Days nies offer group tours of Jerusalem and nearby regions, led by licensed guides. Check the latest schedules and prices: • Zion Walking Tours offers 3-hour tours of sections of the Old City, West Jerusalem, and even the Judean Desert. Located on Armenian Patriarchate Road (inside Jaffa Gate, opposite the police station next to the Tower of David). Call y 02/627-7588 or visit http://zionwt.dsites1.co.il. • Egged Tours, operated by the country’s largest bus company, depart Jerusalem daily for tours of 1 to 3 days to all parts of Israel. Most hotel reception areas contain brochures with schedules, itineraries, and prices. Tours may be booked at travel agencies or travel desks at major hotels. Call y 700/707- 577 (or y *3920) or visit www.eggedtours.com. • An arm of ICAHD (The Israeli Committee Against House Demolitions) specializes in “alternative” tours from Palestin- ian, as well as Israeli, perspectives. Find it at the Travel Center at Damascus Gate, or call y 054/693-4433 or check out www. toursinenglish.com. The following group tours are free; while guides here are also very knowledgeable, they are not always licensed by the state:
1 • Sandeman’s Free Tours: 3 ⁄2-hour walking tours depart daily at 11am and 2:30pm from just outside the Jaffa Gate Tourist Information Office; look for staffers in red t-shirts. Call y 02/ 624-4726 or visit www.newjerusalemtours.com. The guides work for tips; do not let yours go unrewarded. • Jerusalem Municipality: Free walking tours in English are offered Saturdays at 10am from 32 Jaffa Rd. Call y 02/531- 4600. • The Society for the Protection of Nature in Israel: Offers occasional free walking tours in English of Jerusalem neighbor- hoods. Call y 02/625-2357.
For dinner, try the ! ★★ Arme- Reservations are essential Friday nian Tavern in the Old City’s Arme- and Saturday evenings. 79 Arme- nian Quarter. The best night is nian Patriarchate Rd. y 02/627- Friday, when the restaurant offers 3854. $$. a special “Armenian kitchen” dish.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2323 66/17/10/17/10 9:559:55 PMPM 24 The Best in Three Days
o a
f h
y i a a r O s s
d e
f
n Y t a e o o
v H n h
i i
h c t l n u e c a e r o r O Olives
B e N u
l M Mount Of D e l h l
u C a Church of Church Nations all Full-Day Tours
m e
t
h h S S a
o G
erih
Y s
i s
a h
d
a c Ha’ofel
q n ch u e re M e - l E Der D o i l L Lions Gate Lions e Zedekiah’s Cave The Jewish Quarter The Armenian Quarter Kedma Herodion (Herodium) Mahane Yehuda market The Chagall windows at Hadassah Medical Center Yad Vashem Memorial and Holocaust Museum h p The Best 1 2 5 3 6 7 8 3 4 s ’ O Ophel d
o e
r t
F
e a
m m
n n
D
o
o O a a I l
H G l Herod’s Gate
a a
m m V
h s h
i i Y
s
e s g Y
e
e u
A
a t a
T l l
n
T
I
c
H H
u u a
I D DAVID
u
s
h h S
S C CITY OF
G Gate
e C e
a
l
D l Dung
2
n n
a
1 a
’
e ’
a a
a
m a
t t t
D l l
M
a M a n u
u L h
S S e e
D G Damascus Gate
5
c t
O OLD CITY
i
d r
a o T
r r u b G d A u
a e m im t k Z e Zurich h ’ n G Garden a n c i e a n f e
e f t h v o t u 3 i S f e h e o ec a er i a Z Zion Gate Zion
D n a o m J G a Jaffa Gate Z Zion t G U
H R
M Mount a
m B
a i O
H s H
eil Hahanda w H n TOR T e
ABU
yim A
a Hativat Yerushala h N
New Gate New
n k d
a l
h H
e c n v r
e o e e z r
n e e t
m i D a e
’e f avid Hatzanhanim H D
ra’el a d mez s m e
i r
Shivtei Y H R
m
o e
a h
e
. L
t
i
4 e 3
d B o
Garden h G c
l R e
r im e a D Bloomfield r f B ’a f e a J ch h lka ele S a D am am avid H a H ’ SS.. Hamalka e e
M c n
e
n n
y
k
d
o e d
r r k
r o
s s u u a a
r r n
g t
t s e s A S S
.
. a
l KKerene I A N
N n e
v
i
e .
Park
P a l t
u V
p
G. Agron G G.
h l
a HavesodH y i Y a e o
’ s a
h e
HHill A
m b
r
u
i o f l d a
B Balfour
a s
’ u H c r a
M i d JJabotinsky i v a David Marcus David v n D E Independence I e . REHAVIA n d R
a R e V rg n HHanevi’im a eo
A King G f a
f s
i i
b
D a
s
JJaffa Rd. a s
a
T a
a a
m z
p z
a a
U
n n
a A
p O A
d d a
i a
H R Ramban h h H
r H
u
M c
A c
E g n I
h e
e o r L r
A e e
Y e m
H a Y D H D t a E AHIM A n sishkin K
6 s A U i moni e L e Tahke N h
T
B E NAHLAOT N s l n ’ v
A i
A o
le K
p U
Y
H a p
n in i k
s
i Disk
z D a a h h r r c c a a
B
B R
u C
e M m m
i
i I
s s R
i
i B
h
A h
N N h H KIRYAT K
a
ak c a SHMU’EL
sh e S
m
it r m l
. Y M e l
MACHANE YEHUDA MACHANE
a
M D a p p
a
derot BBenen Zvi a H S H
y
r y k k
s
e s
k
v v
r
h
o o
n n
g
c g
h
a h
i i
o o
c c
i
b i
b a P Park
z z
n n
r r
r a a r
T T e e c S Sacher c h h
e e
R R
H
H
k v
d t v
a
il a
r
a ch r e a
ths a h H Ro H s
z n n
l i t s i e e p 1/4 mi e h p Y
s
r r
d u n
t o R u u r
o o K
Knesset h
e e
r a R Rose c W Wohl
e re n
G Garden
n n
d e h a
a n
0.25 km g
m
S m a DDerech Ruppin S s
s l
o u u
Z Z p n
a z
KKaplana r
alm e H
Z
7 v
8
0 0 a r
a
Yehuda Burla H
n i
g
e
B
k
m a e
h z t a
n a
o e
B
v M
t l
A o r e
e l
n
i d a S z m e
e B Y
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2424 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 25 The Best in n the third day, we spread our wings a bit and travel Ooutside the city—to the suburb of Ein Karem and the nearby
o Judean Desert. And we get acquainted with the outdoor Jewish mar- a
f h y i
a r O s s
d e f ket, with its colorful stalls of produce and ethnic foods, to the delight
n Y t a e o o v H n h
i i
h c t START: l u of our taste buds. The Jewish Quarter, inside the Zion Gate. n Three Days e c a e r o r O
B e N u
l M D e l h l u C a ★ m = e 1 Zedekiah’s Cave. This
t h Old City. @ 45 min. Entrance along
S a o G huge underground cavern, extend-
erih the Old City Walls between Damas-
Y s
i s
a h d
a c Ha’ofel q n ch u e re ing from the Old City Walls nearly all M e - l y E Der D cus Gate & Herod’s Gate. 02/627- o i l L e the way to the Temple Mount, 7550. Admission NIS 10 adults. h
p reopened to the public in 2009. It is Sun–Thurs 9am–5pm (9am–4pm in s ’ O
d also known as Solomon’s Quarries, winter). o e
r t F
e a
m since it is believed to be the quarry n D
o O a I
H G l ★★
a 2 The Jewish Quarter of
m V
s h from which the stones for the i Y
e s
g Y
e u A
t a
T l
n
T By now, you will
I the Old City. c H u a I
D ancient Temple were hewn. The
u
s
h
S C G
C e
a
D l
n probably at least have passed
a
e ’
a cave is of special importance to the
m a
t t D l
a M a n u L
h through this area of the ancient city, S e e
D G worldwide Order of Masons, which
c t
O
i
d r
a o T
r r u which has been the center of the
b G d A claims spiritual descent from the u
a e m im t k e Z h ’ n G
a Jewish community in the Old City n c i e a n f e e f t h v o original builders of the First Temple. t u i S f e h e o ec a er i a Z
D n a o since 1267, when the Crusaders m
a J G Z t Jewish and Muslim legends claim G U
H R
M a
m B a i were driven from Jerusalem. The
O s H
eil Hahanda w H n that tunnels from here extended to T e
yim A
a Hativat Yerushala
h N Jewish Quarter was destroyed by
n k d the Sinai Desert and Jericho. The
a l
h H e c n v r o
e e z r
n e e t
D the Jordanians during and after Isra-
m i a e name comes from the story that
’e f avid H D
ra’el a d mez el’s War of Independence in 1948; s m e
i Yi r
Shivte H R King Zedekiah fled from the Babylo-
m
o e a h
e
. L
t
i
e
d B o
G h since Israel retook the Old City in c
l R e
r nians through these tunnels in 587 im e a D r f B ’a f 1967, the quarter has been rebuilt e a BCE, only to be captured later near J ch h lka ele S a D am am avid H and repopulated. a H Jericho. An illuminated path leads ’ S. e e
M c you into this netherworld under the n
e
n n
y
k d
o e d
r r k
r o s u a r n g t s e s A S
. Zedekiah’s Cave is a huge underground cavern underneath the Old City. a
l K e I A
N n e
v
i
e .
P a l t u V
p
G
h l
a H y i Y a e o
’ s a
h e
H A
m b
r
u i o f l d a
B
a s
’ u H c r
a M i d J i v a v n D E I e . n d R
a R e V rg n H a eo
A King G f a
f s i
b
D a
J a s
T a
a
m
p z a
U
n
a
p O A d
i a
H R h r H
u M
A c
E g n I h
e o L r
A e
Y e m
H a Y H D t a E A n ssishkin K A U i moni e L e Tahke N h
T
B E N s l n ’ v
A i
A o le K
p U
Y
H a p n i
k s i z D a h r c a
B R
u C e M m
i I
s R
i B A h
N h H
K ak c a
sh e S it r m
. Y M e l
M D a
p
derot Ben Zvi a S H
r y k
e s k
v
r h
o
n
c g a h i
o c
b a i P
z
n
r a r
T e S c h
e
R
H
k
d t v il a
a ch r e ths a h Ro H s z n n l i t s i e e p e h p Y
s r
d u n
t o R u r o o
K h e
r a
R c W
e re n
G
n d e h
a n
g
S m a D S s l
o u
Z p n
a z
Ka r
alm e H
Z
v
a r
a
Yehuda Burla H
n i
g
e
B
k
m a e
h z t a
n a
o e
B v M
t l
A o r e e l
n i d a S z m e e B Y
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2525 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 26 Holy . ek Rd re te Sepulcher G Al-WadA Road chateha r a l ia aray - tr The Jewish Quarter Es-SarayaEs-S W Pa a ChristianC Quarter Rd. DomeDome d h
r R ofof thethe RockRock i
s e o t ya i a g d i al r a h El-El-KhaldiyaK d o n El-HakariE
e Q l - G MuristanMuristan H u t a a S BBazaarazaar k r
t a
e PoolPool ooff r r i in HHezekiahezekiah R e ChaiCha d Streetet of th Full-Day Tours . ar Suquq Ell-B-Baazz DaDavidvid SStt. St-S t-MMara d rk a 2B
o
R JEWISHJEWISH
r
e QUARTERQUARTER t
r
A Armenian Patriarchate Armenian Rd
a T The Best
r t MisquauM Ladach Rd u i
m f a 2A e
r Q 2F i r s e a e q r h t n Y s AraratA isr u i i a’el
a 2C
a
w n
u
e
P JewishJ Quarter Road Or H L
a a mes y a DavidsonDavidson t a J im d
r 2D
a
i CenterCenter a
c
r StSt h c k Beir El 2E a G h l a DungDung
a l’ed R a
M d
-
t
l
. GateGate e
E
R
d m eh lo assehs a M h ei Mas as atet H B h Church le a’a AARMENIANRMSynagogueENIAN M QQUARTERUARTER 0 1/10 mi Mosque 0 0.1 km
The highlight of the Jewish Quarter of each wave of destruction. The l
e
★★ n is j the Cardo Maximus, massive k Broad Wall was part of n u Jerusalem’s main market street from the city’s defenses dating from the W ater T s
’
the 2nd to 6th centuries (Roman First Temple period (about 700 BCEh ).
a i
and Byzantine times). The southern Other important sites in the Jewishk
e z
portion of the Cardo, with many Quarter are the l Hurva Syna- e original paving stones, is open to gogue, now being rebuilt to its orig-H the sky and lined with imposing inal striking dimensions, complete columns found and re-erected by with a white dome that constitutes archaeologists; note the walled-up a new landmark in the panorama of facades of Crusader-era shops built the Old City; a complex of four small into arches (some replaced by mod- m Sephardic synagogues; the ern tourist shops). In this restored n Wohl Archaeology Museum; section, you can look down shafts and the o Burnt House. See p 35 that reveal how far above ancient for details on the Wohl Museum and 1 street-level the city has risen after Burnt House. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. www.jewish- centuries of rebuilding on the ruins quarter.org.il.
3 ★ The Armenian Quarter. Travel Tip Tucked between the Citadel of The intricacies of the Armenian Quar- David and the Jewish Quarter is an ter are difficult to explore on your area containing Armenian religious own; visitors with a special interest institutions dating back to the earli- in this community are advised to hire est centuries of Christianity. The a specialized guide (see Private Tour Armenian Quarter does not yield its Guides sidebar, p 21). secrets easily: Access to the Church
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2626 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 27 The Best in Three Days
St. James Cathedral in the Armenian Quarter.
of the Archangels—adjacent to the ★ First Prison of Jesus, as well as 4 Kedma, a meat restaurant to the Gulbenkian Library, which (highlighting corned beef), coupled houses some 4,000 illuminated man- with a sister dairy restaurant (that fea- uscripts—is limited. The interior of tures pasta). The beautiful coffee bar the ★★ St. James Cathedral is one will not serve you milk, but the server of the most interesting in the coun- will tell you where to obtain it for your coffee. On the third floor of the inte- try, with chapels and altars richly y adorned with ceramic tiles, mother rior mall. 02/500-3737.$$. Kosher. of pearl, silver, and gold; dazzling chandeliers; dozens of hanging oil ★★ = lamps; and a unique confessional. 5 Herodion (Hero- The church may be visited only dur- dium). Herodion is an oft-underrated ing services (see p 42, @, for sched- site, partly because of its similarity ule). The Mardigian Museum of to its more famous counterpart, Armenian Art and History con- Masada, and partly because it is a tains a collection of artifacts and reli- 25-minute drive from Jerusalem. For gious objects, and chronicles tourists who will not be visiting Armenian history. y 02/628-2331. Masada, it is well worth the few hours Admission to the museum NIS 5 it would take to visit the ruins of this adults. Mon–Sat 10am–4:30pm. The cliff-top fortified palace that overlooks museum is closed for renovations for both Bethlehem and the Judean Des- all of 2010. ert, with views as far as the Dead Sea. (Tourists or pilgrims planning to visit Bethlehem can easily incorporate The Alrov Mamilla pedestrian mall Herodion into this half-day excursion.) that connects Jaffa Gate with the Herodion is so named because the new city is Jerusalem’s latest “coffee magnificent tomb of the infamous shop row.” For the best variety—and monarch is here, alongside his winter most spectacular view—check out palace and over-the-top swimming pool, which was kept filled for Herod’s
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2727 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 28 (Gen. 49:1–27) that Jacob bestowed on his 12 sons destined to become the founders of the Twelve Tribes of Israel. Fans of Chagall will be happy to learn that more of his work—large, colorful tapestries—is on display in the Knesset (Parliament) building.
Full-Day Tours 1 @ ⁄2 hr. Ein Karem. y 02/641-6333. Admission & tour of Chagall windows NIS 14 adults; discount for students & seniors. Sun–Thurs 8am–1:15pm &
The Best 2–3:45pm, Fri & eves of holidays 8am–12:30pm. 7 ★★ = Mahane Yehuda market. The open-air market—the shook—in West Jerusalem is very different from its counterpart in the Old City, but it is no less enjoyable. Israel’s fruits and vegetables range from the familiar to the exotic; and like the breads, pastries, and cheeses you’ll find here, all are at their freshest and tastiest at this bustling market. Along with the old-fashioned Jewish Loaves of bread at the Mahane Yehuda market. and ethnic foods on display, there are trendy cafes, sophisticated restau- pleasure with water diverted from rants, healthful drinks, and even ter- Jerusalem. The personality and para- rific ice cream. Taste the free samples noia of this notorious historical figure (especially the halvah), shop for the is reflected in the grandeur of the best prices, and think about the ter- Herodion complex, complete with rific picnic for dinner or the next day’s 1 lunch you can provision here. And underground escape tunnels. @1 ⁄2 hr. (not including travel time). Hero- don’t forget the wine. The market is at dion is a national park on the edge its busiest Thursdays and Fridays; pre- of the Judean Desert. y 050/623- pare for slow going or to be jostled. It 5821. www.parks.org.il. Admission is closed Friday nights and Saturdays, NIS 25 adults; NIS 13 students, chil- although restaurants will reopen dren & seniors. Sun–Thurs 8am– Saturday nights. Try to avoid Sun- 5pm, Fri 8am–2pm; closed Sat. day, as many stalls are closed. @ 1 hr. Opposite 110 Jaffa Rd. on the ★★ 6 The Chagall windows at north side, or starting at 44 Agrippas Hadassah Medical Center. The St. on the south side; 5–10 minutes’ largest medical center in the Middle walk west from downtown. East, the Hadassah-Hebrew University ★★★ Medical Center stands on a hilltop 8 Yad Vashem Memorial several miles from downtown Jerusa- and Holocaust Museum. The lem. The teaching hospital’s syna- world’s largest institution dedicated gogue is adorned by 12 exquisite to the commemoration of the Holo- stained-glass windows designed caust and its victims is located on the by renowned French-Jewish artist Ridge of Remembrance on Mt. Herzl, Marc Chagall (1887–1985). Each win- next to Israel’s national military cem- dow depicts the Biblical blessing etery and the burial places of the leaders of the state of Israel.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2828 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM 29 The Best in Yad Vashem Memorial Three Days
8G 8D 8F 8E 8B 8C 8A P
H
a z P i k
a
r o
n
Entry Gate
Information Point of Interest P Parking 0 100 yds Rest Rooms 0 100 m
The Yad Vashem complex com- of as many of the victims as the prises the tunnel-shaped _ Holo- institute has been able to gather; caust Museum, wherein moving the 6m (20 ft.) | monument to video testimonies by survivors are the 1.5 million Jewish soldiers interspersed among exhibits that among the Allied forces, partisans, detail the suffering and near-extinc- and ghetto fighters; the : Valley tion of European Jewry over the of the Destroyed Communities, course of 12 years of Nazi persecu- memorializing 5,000 entire commu- tion; the + Avenue of the Righ- nities that were wiped off the face teous Among the Nations, lined of the Earth; and the ! Children with trees planted in honor of heroic of the Holocaust Memorial, com- gentiles (many of them martyred) memorating more than 1.5 million who saved Jewish lives; the { Hall murdered children. @ 2 hr. On Har of Remembrance, a crypt-like Ha-Zikaron. y 02/675-1611. www. room where an eternal flame sheds yadvashem.org.il. Free admission. somber light over plaques on the Sun–Thurs 9am–4:45pm, Fri 9am– floor identifying dozens of death 1pm; Hall of Names Sun–Thurs camps (the Hall’s massive gate is 10am–2pm, Fri 10am–1pm; archives unforgettable in and of itself); the & library Sun–Thurs 9am–3pm; all } Hall of Names, with the names, closed Sat & Jewish holidays. photographs, and personal details
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 2929 66/17/10/17/10 9:559:55 PMPM 30
Visiting Yad Vashem
As difficult as the subject matter is, this is a uniquely enlight- ening, albeit depressing, experience for adults and teenaged children; parents should exercise discretion with regard to Full-Day Tours younger children. It is also an opportunity to sign a Remem- brance Book that includes the comments and signatures of many world leaders. Visitors who do not feel they can complete the entire tour may wait for others in the new Art Museum, whose
The Best contents are less emotionally charged. Warning: It may be diffi- cult for some to continue sightseeing as usual after a visit to Yad Vashem. If so, it is recommended to visit either during a rainy day or towards the end of the day, when all that is left to do is watch a golden sunset over the Eternal City. •
Yad Vashem’s Avenue of the Righteous Among the Nations.
005_676363-ch01.indd5_676363-ch01.indd 3030 66/17/10/17/10 99:55:55 PMPM