<<

Celeste Belyea [email protected] www.getupandgo2.com 866-673-3019 | 386-852-1921

ST LUCIA

OVERVIEW

Introduction

The Caribbean island of St. Lucia possesses a wealth of natural beauty—lush mountains, a steaming sulfur volcano, 19,000 acres/7,690 hectares of rain forest (35% of the country), charming black- and white-sand beaches, rare colorful foliage and exotic wildlife. Add to this mix the pleasant St. Lucia weather and the nice beaches, and it's understandable why it is a popular destination.

There's plenty to do on this small island, although given St. Lucia's rise as a high-end resort destination, travelers should be prepared to pay to take advantage of much of it. The rain forest is an ideal place for hiking, mountain biking, bird-watching or standing near a waterfall to soak up the mist from its spray. There's also whale- and dolphin-watching, snorkeling, kite-sailing, fishing and diving.

Vacationers who go to St. Lucia travel there generally for two distinct reasons: either to enjoy its charm and undeveloped feel, still found in some places, or to luxuriate in five-star waterfront luxury. Whether visitors stay in a deluxe, all-inclusive resort or a local inn or hotel, St. Lucia and its residents extend a warm welcome.

Sights—The mineral baths at Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens; views of the Piton mountains; touring the sulphur springs at La Soufriere Volcano, which is called "the drive-in volcano"; spotting the endangered parrot, the Amazona versicolor; the black-sand beaches on the south end of the island; a zipline ride or tram trip through the treetops in the 19,000-acre/7,690-hectare rain forest.

Museums—The "living museum" at Pigeon Island National Landmark in Gros Islet.

Memorable Meals—Green fig and saltfish at Ladera Hotel's Dasheene Restaurant; little plates at Orlando's; savory creme brulee at La Terrasse; cocktails made with local rum Bounty, or Piton Shandys (a blend of beer, spices and fruit juice) after a day on the beach.

Late Night—Counting nesting leatherback turtles; dancing to soca music during Friday-night street parties (Gros Islet's Jump-Up and Anse La Raye's Fish Fry); mingling with yachters and expatriates at The Lime in Rodney Bay.

Walks—A hike on the Edmund Forest Reserve Rain Forest Trail; a challenging climb up Gros Piton; a stroll through tropical forest to a sandy beach.

Especially for Kids—Climbing over the ruins and cannons at Fort Rodney at Pigeon Point National Park; snorkeling along shallow reefs at Anse Chastanet Resort and enjoying watersports on Reduit (pronounced red-wee) Beach; watching pools of furiously bubbling mud at La Soufriere—an active volcano.

An avocado-shaped island 14 mi/23 km wide by 27 mi/43 km long, St. Lucia is one of the greenest and lushest areas in the Caribbean. The island is mountainous, except for the northern area around Gros Islet and Rodney Bay. Most of the resorts and towns are located right along the shore.

The twin volcanic peaks, Petit Piton and Gros Piton—probably the most-photographed mountains in the Caribbean as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site—are on the southwestern side of the island. As with most of the , St. Lucia was originally inhabited by the , who were driven out by the Caribs before the arrival of Europeans.

Accounts differ as to the first Europeans to visit St. Lucia: Some maintain that Columbus sighted the island on 13 December 1502 (though his logbook suggests otherwise, and St. Lucians have changed the name of the public holiday from Discovery Day to National Day); others believe that it was another Spanish expedition, a group of shipwrecked French sailors or Dutch explorers who first reached the island.

The Carib warriors prevented any permanent settlement of the island until the mid-1600s, when French colonists established themselves there.

Like so many other Caribbean islands, St. Lucia became a political Ping-Pong ball, bouncing back and forth between and 14 times. As a result, both countries influenced the island's culture. In 1814, France definitively ceded St. Lucia to England, and it remained an English colony until the 1970s.

Nonetheless, French traditions remain strong: The local Roman Catholic Church is influential, and most residents speak Creole. English is the official language, however, and except for truly remote areas of the island, most people speak English.

St. Lucia gained its independence from England in 1979 and is now a member of the British Commonwealth. The major businesses are agriculture (primarily bananas, though that crop's profitability is declining) and tourism. Efforts to attract offshore banking have been relatively successful. The country also has the most diverse manufacturing sector in the Eastern Caribbean; products include clothing, furniture, rum, condiments and toys.

The foremost attractions in St. Lucia are great beaches, friendly people, stunning mountain scenery, a steaming volcano, plantations, bird-watching, turtle-watching, all forms of watersports (including scuba diving, sailing, snorkeling, windsurfing and kite-sailing), hiking, tennis and good food.

Notwithstanding the recent influx of five-star resorts, with all its natural beauty and hiking trails, St. Lucia is still a great destination for outdoor enthusiasts who want to visit a Caribbean island—especially if they prefer less-developed areas. But anyone who loves great beaches amid beautiful scenery and plenty of peace and quiet will be very happy in St. Lucia.

Location

St. Lucia has one principal cruise ship port: its capital . It is set in a lovely natural harbor backed by spectacular mountains; the shelter it provides was one reason the British and French fought so fiercely over St. Lucia. Cruise ships pull into one of two docks —the more frequently used Pointe Seraphine on the north side of the bay on Vigie Peninsula or occasionally at La Place Carenage (pronounced car-en-AHGE) on the south side of the bay.

If your ship docks at one of the two berths at Pointe Seraphine, you will be within steps of the island's premier duty-free shopping complex with more than 40 shops grouped in a Spanish-style pedestrian mall. It's a 15-minute walk or a short cab ride around the bay to town. Bars and cafes offer refreshment and Wi-Fi. Taxis abound. The trip to Castries is shortest by boat. For US$5, you can take a water taxi (the brightly painted boats are easy to identify) across the bay. The boat shuttles between ports at 15-minute intervals 9 am-4 pm.

The six-berth La Place Carenage is a longer stroll from the town center and adjacent to a cluster of air-conditioned duty-free shops painted in soothing pastel colors. A tourist-information kiosk has maps and brochures, and the Desmond Skeete Animation Centre provides a high-tech dramatization of the island's archaeology, culture and history. A restaurant with balcony overlooks the harbor. Also found nearby are two large open-air markets, the Vendor's Arcade and the Castries Market, selling local art, crafts, spices and produce.

Both docks are operated by the Air & Sea Port Authority (http://www.slaspa.com/contentPages/view/cruise-and-ferry- services). There are tourism offices near both docks. The tourism office near La Place Carenage is open Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-noon (phone 452-2479). The office near the Pointe Seraphine docks is open Monday-Friday 8 am-4:30 pm (phone 452-4094). The information desk opens for a half-day if a cruise ship is in port on a Sunday or holiday. There is a water taxi that runs between the two docks.

Smaller ships sometimes anchor north of Castries at Marigot Bay in Soufriere, or Rodney Bay in Gros Islet, both small yacht harbors. There is no formal tourist office at either of these locations, although information can be obtained at the Rodney Bay Marina Office (phone 572-7200; http://www.igy-rodneybay.com). Most businesses offer the free annuals Paradise St. Lucia and St. Lucia Visions magazine, or more up-to-date, bi-monthly Tropical Traveller magazine Typical excursions include tours of historic buildings and a sugar mill or more rigorous adventures such as horseback riding, hiking, rain-forest canopy tours, snorkeling or flightseeing. The most popular tours include an opportunity to view and photograph the Piton mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and those visiting by boat have the option of snorkeling in the marine reserve at the base of the twin peaks.

Island-wide tours often include a drive through Castries with stops at the open-air markets, a visit to a working plantation and a refreshment break in one of the fishing villages to sample local foods. Adventure tours focus on watersports, such as diving, or land activities, such as zipline or tram rides through the rain forest. A photo tour combines sights with insights into capturing their memories. Other options include a visit to the drive-in volcano, a walk though one of the botanical gardens, or a tour of Pigeon Point National Park.

Check with your travel agent for additional information.

Potpourri

St. Lucia has been the filming site for such TV series as The Bachelor and Hollywood movies, including the original Doctor Doolittle, Superman II, Water with Michael Caine and Firepower with Sophia Loren.

Leatherback turtles, the largest on earth, lay their eggs on Grand Anse beach on the northeast side of the island between March and July.

In the past few decades, the population of the native, vulnerable St. Lucia parrot (Amazona versicolor), or Jacquot, has tripled, from as few as 100 in 1975—when Gerald Durrell's Jersey Wildlife Preservation Trust started a captive breeding program—to approximately 330 now living in the central mountain rain forest.

St. Lucia is a popular honeymoon destination, and some couples even choose to tie the knot on the island. Visitors must reside on the island for two days before applying for a marriage license, which will be processed within two business days. (Don't schedule your wedding to take place until the fifth day you're on the island.) Couples will need a passport, birth certificate and, if applicable, proof of divorce or the death of a former spouse.

Pigeon Island was once the staging point for raids by the 16th-century French pirate Francois "Peg Leg" LeClerc. He and his 330- man crew were the first Europeans to settle St. Lucia.

Versatile St. Lucian composer and guitarist Ronald "Boo" Hinkson has played in the Caribbean, Europe and —including the Superbowl and the White House—but has declined to live abroad to further his career.

Despite its fertility, St. Lucia relies on external sources for food, particularly beef and pork. With a US$410 million import bill, food security is an issue in St. Lucia.

Though 15 years apart, both of St. Lucia's Nobel laureates were born on 23 January, which makes it convenient to celebrate one Nobel Laureate Day.

Water pistols are sometimes provided on restaurant tables. These are for keeping the birds away.

Sir Dunstan St. Omer, "the Michelangelo of the Caribbean" and father of "Prismism," has painted murals, altarpieces and more in many of St. Lucia's churches, most famously in the Cathedral in Castries. The long mural on Anse la Raye's seawall is by him and his sons, all artists by their own right.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

St. Lucia is only 27 mi/43 km long and 14 mi/23 km wide, and the topography is mountainous. The main coastal road is paved and in good condition, but it is narrow and winding, which makes travel slow. Although it's possible to circle the entire island in a half-day of steady driving, visitors will get the most from their stay by choosing one region per day to tour leisurely with frequent stops to enjoy the best views and attractions.

St. Lucia is stunning when seen from the water, so even cruise ship passengers who arrive by sea may want to take a boat trip to glimpse the Pitons plunging straight into the bay, or visit one of the picturesque coves that cut deeply into the west coast. Land tours with the best sightseeing opportunities include the Soufriere area. Although the town itself is crowded and run-down, it features striking views of the Pitons. The surrounding countryside is astonishingly diverse and includes the island's highest peak, 3,118-ft/967-m Mount Gimie, Diamond Botanical Gardens and the bubbling sulfur springs of the drive-in volcano.

North of Castries, Rodney Bay is a tourist haven with restaurants, bars and Reduit Beach, which draws a lively crowd of watersports fans. A short drive to the north brings visitors to Pigeon Point National Park, location of 18th-century Fort Rodney. South of Castries lies Marigot Bay, a major yacht harbor and one of the most beautiful harbors in the world.

Nature lovers will want to visit the less developed—at least for now—east coast, which is battered by the wild Atlantic and serves as a habitat for a vast variety of plants and birds. Mamiku Gardens is a shady refuge filled with birds, orchids and medicinal herbs, and the Barre de L'Isle Forest Reserve offers a hiking trail with panoramic views.

Casinos

Casino gambling is not a major draw on St. Lucia, but for those who love it, there is a decent one. The minimum age is 18, and membership (complimentary) is required. Treasure Bay Casino Baywalk Mall, Rodney Bay St. Lucia's only casino has 260 slot machines and 22 table games (including three poker tables). There also is a full bar and snack areas, St Lucia and the casino itself is in a 60-store enclosed shopping mall. Patrons Phone: 459-2901 must be at least 18 years old and must obtain a complimentary http://www.treasurebaystlucia.com membership to enter. Daily 11 am-1 am. U.S. currency is used. Baywalk Mall, Rodney Bay (Gros Islet), St. Lucia. Phone 459-2901. http://www.treasurebaystlucia.com.

Fond Doux Plantation Soufriere, St Lucia LC09 101 After 250 years, this historic cocoa and banana estate still produces cocoa and bananas. Its resident family owners welcome visitors for Phone: 758-459-7545 drinks or lunch, birding, strolling the forest trails, and learning some of https://www.fonddouxresort.com the cocoa process. The property is dotted with charming gingerbread- trimmed guest cottages, three of which were rescued from demolition and moved to their sylvan spots. A tiny museum, craft and book-bearing gift shop help cement the magical impression. Tours include lunch; independent visitors should call ahead to make arrangements. Treatments at the on-site spa should be reserved in advance. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Phone 758-459-7545. https://www.fonddouxresort.com.

Fort Rodney Pigeon Island Ruins of 18th-century Fort Rodney are somewhat intact, and the stone walls scattered on the hills of Pigeon Point National Park are fun to Gros Islet, St Lucia explore and photograph. At the top of the tallest hills, cannons still aim Phone: 758-452-5005 out to sea from fortress walls, and the view from Signal Peak is https://www.slunatrust.org/sites/pigeon- magnificent. Pigeon Island, Gros Islet. Phone 758-452-5005. island-national-landmark https://www.slunatrust.org/sites/pigeon-island-national-landmark.

Morne Coubaril Estate Morne Coubaril Estate This was the island's first major estate, located just outside of town, Soufriere, St Lucia nearer Sulphur Springs Park. Female guides dressed in brightly colored French colonial costumes lead 90-minute tours of the working cocoa, Phone: 758-459-7340 copra and coffee plantation, and the ruins of an 18th-century sugar mill. https://mornecoubarilestate.com A re-created Carib village has eight styles of buildings, and a re-created plantation house and an old-time bus provide peeks into later times. An eight-stage zipline makes an exhilarating add-on. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Morne Coubaril Estate, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7340. https://mornecoubarilestate.com.

Maria Islands Nature Reserve Maria Islands Just off the southeastern coast, the area is made up of unspoiled Vieux Fort, St Lucia islands with interesting plants, birds and animals. It is home to two species found nowhere else on earth: the Kouwes snake and the Phone: 758-454-5014 Zandoli Terre lizard. Bird-watchers in particular will love the reserve. https://slunatrust.org/sites/maria-island- There's a small interpretive center that describes several species of rare nature-reserve wildlife. The islands are closed to visitors annually April-September. At other times, the St. Lucia National Trust offers tours there. Be prepared for a steep climb, and take along a change of clothes—you'll probably get wet on the boat ride to the island. Book in advance. Maria Islands, Vieux Fort. Phone 758-454-5014. https://slunatrust.org/sites/maria- island-nature-reserve.

Exquisite gardens abound on the island of St. Lucia. There's Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens in Soufriere, which features restored mineral baths, picturesque waterfalls, a nature trail and estate; and the Mamiku Gardens in Praslin on the eastern part of the island. If you have time, also visit the Bonne Terre Tropical Gardens in Gros Islet on the north side of the island and the gardens at the La Sikwi Historical Sugar Mill and Plantation in Anse La Raye. Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens and Mineral Baths Soufriere Estate You might expect the waters of Diamond Waterfall in Soufriere to be crystal clear, but in fact the local sulfur springs change the colors in this Soufriere, St Lucia cascade to purple, green and yellow. During French colonial rule in Phone: 758-459-7155 1784, Louis XIV ordered mineral baths to be built nearby to take http://www.diamondstlucia.com advantage of their supposed healing powers. The ruins are still visible, and you can still "take the waters" for an extra fee. Also on-site are botanical gardens, an old mill and hiking trails. Monday-Saturday 10 am- 5 pm, Sunday 10am-3 pm. US$7 adults. Soufriere Estate, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7155. http://www.diamondstlucia.com.

Pigeon Island National Landmark Pigeon Island A landfill connected this former island to the mainland in 1972, making it accessible by road. The St. Lucia National Trust oversees the 44- Gros Islet, St Lucia acre/18-hectare park located just outside of Gros Islet on Rodney Bay, Phone: 758-452-5005 which includes the ruins of Fort Rodney, a beach, two restaurants, an https://slunatrust.org/sites/pigeon- interpretive center and landscaped grounds that are a favorite wedding island-national-landmark setting. Thousands of visitors pour onto the grounds during the annual St. Lucia Jazz Festival, and marked trails connect the ruins and scenic lookouts scattered on the hilly terrain. Daily 9 am-5 pm. US$5 adults. Pigeon Island, Gros Islet. Phone 758-452-5005. https://slunatrust.org/sites/pigeon-island-national-landmark.

Sulphur Springs Park Bay Street Maintained by the Soufriere Regional Development Foundation, Sulphur Springs is home to the "drive-through" volcano you'll see referenced in Soufriere, St Lucia tour guides, but access to the area is restricted for safety reasons, and Phone: 758-459-7200 visitors must park and walk along a series of paths. Located south of http://www.sulphurspringssaintlucia.com Soufriere, the caldron is full of brightly colored, bubbling mud, hissing steam and seething sulfur (yes, it smells bad). Visitors may tour the geological sites, vendors village and interpretive center. Daily 9 am-5 pm. US$5 adults. Bay Street, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7200. http://www.sulphurspringssaintlucia.com.

Roseau Sugar Factory La Toc Road, Roseau This historic factory is home to the St. Lucia Distillers Group of Castries, St Lucia Companies. Located about 20 minutes from Castries, the factory offers the Rhythm of Rum tour (reservations required), at which you'll learn the Phone: 758-456-3148 history of rum, complete with samples. A variety of rums is available for http://www.saintluciarums.com purchase following the tour. Monday-Friday 9 am-3 pm. US$10 adults. La Toc Road, Roseau, Castries. Phone 758-456-3148. http://www.saintluciarums.com.

Recreation Beaches

Beaches—all of them public—come in a variety of colors on this island. Those along the northwest shore tend to be very white, those in the middle have beige or tan sand and those farther south, around the volcanoes, have black sand. (St. Lucia originated from a volcano, and the presence of volcanic rock causes the black sand.)

If there's a bad beach on the island, we haven't found it. Waves are powerful along the Atlantic Coast, where only strong swimmers should venture out. On the western (Caribbean) side, the water is much calmer.

With the exceptions of Reduit Beach and Marigot Bay, both fronted by a number of hotels, most beaches are big, clean and relatively isolated. Two of our favorites are Anse de Sables, across from Hewanorra Airport, near Vieux Fort, which is popular with surfers, and the beach on Pigeon Point, in Gros Islet, which has white sand and is good for swimming and picnicking.

Marigot Bay, south of Castries and part of Soufriere, has a white-sand beach that is known as the setting for the original Doctor Doolittle movie. Just north of Castries, Vigie Beach is a palm-shaded stretch of beige sand at the end of Choc Bay.

The little beach at Soufriere proper is better for sunning and lunching (at the Hummingbird Beach Resort's restaurant) than for serious swimming—there are a lot of yachts anchored right offshore. For a great beach, exciting snorkeling and fine food, take the bone-crunching drive on a rutted dirt road to Anse Chastanet Resort, north of Soufriere, where the views of the Pitons are spectacular, and the snorkeling and diving are world-class.

You can also reach the beach by water taxi from Soufriere, and the views are even better from the water. (If you do take a water taxi, be sure to reserve one for the return trip.) The water taxi will also pick up and drop off at Anse Mamin, a quiet hideaway around the coastal curve of the resort's property.

Other nice beaches on the Caribbean coast include Anse Cochon, south of Marigot Bay and just over the border in Castries, most easily accessed by boat, and the beach at Laborie, the fishing village between Choiseul and Vieux Fort. Your presence will probably attract some attention from local children—be prepared to chat or play soccer.

For a real adventure, rent a four-wheel-drive Jeep and take the road from Babonneau east to Grand Anse in Dauphin on the Atlantic coast. It's about a 90-minute drive. The spectacular, windswept beach is often deserted, and it's a great place to camp, picnic or stroll. Beware of the strong currents, however.

Leatherback turtles go ashore on Grand Anse to lay eggs, and the endangered creatures, the largest marine turtles in the world, are protected during the August nesting season by a youth organization that patrols the beach.

As for beach attire, there's been some French influence, but the British attitude predominates: Unless you're in an isolated setting, plan to wear a swimsuit at the beach.

St. Lucia is mountainous, and roads are narrow, so bikes and mopeds are not a practical means of transportation for visitors. However, complimentary use of bicycles is sometimes included in rates at all- inclusive resorts, and guided group excursions are available through a few tour operators. Bike St. Lucia Anse Chastanet Resort This outfitter caters to guests at Anse Chastanet Resort and Jade Mountain Resort, but others are welcome to join a full- or half-day tour. Soufriere, St Lucia Some excursions include transportation from the cruise ship terminal or Phone: 758-459-2453 Castries, and combination land-and-sea adventures are offered. http://www.bikestlucia.com Reservations required. Anse Chastanet Resort, Soufriere. Phone 758- 459-2453. http://www.bikestlucia.com.

St. Lucia is the only place on Earth where bird-watching enthusiasts will spot the rare St. Lucia parrot (Amazona versicolor), which is called jaco or jacquot by islanders. Once among the most endangered parrots in the world (as few as 100 lived in the wild in 1975), the population has more than tripled, and there is a US$5,000 fine for hunting the bird. The cobalt-blue forehead and scarlet breast are especially striking. They can be seen in the rain forest around Quillesse and Barre de l'Isle.

The best bird-watching locations on the island include the Balenbouche Estate and the Fond Doux Estate, both in the Soufriere area, and along the Millet Trail in the rain forest.

Rainforest Adventures 6066 Car Park This company leads a sunrise tour for the best bird sightings. Experienced birders conduct the tour, which is aimed at both the serious Castries, St Lucia birder and the novice. 6066 Car Park, Castries. Phone 758-458-5151. Phone: 758-458-5151 https://www.rainforestadventure.com/pages/st-lucia. https://www.rainforestadventure.com/pages/st- lucia

Several cruise operators offer full-day and half-day tours of the island's coast that include snorkeling in secluded bays, refreshments or lunch, and perhaps some type of entertainment. Sunset cruises and party boats also are popular. Carnival Sailing Le Clery This private charter company also offers full or half-day tours and sunset cruises on its fleet of catamarans. Le Clery, Castries. Phone 758- Castries, St Lucia 452-5586. http://www.carnivalsailing.com. Phone: 758-452-5586 http://www.carnivalsailing.com

Endless Summer Cruises Rodney Bay Marina Catamarans offering day and sunset tours of the island. Rodney Bay Rodney Bay, St Lucia Marina, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-450-8651. http://www.stluciaboattours.com. Phone: 758-450-8651 http://www.stluciaboattours.com

Sea Spray Cruises Rodney Bay Marina Full day and sunset tours are offered on the 19th-century replica ship Brig Unicorn, which was used in the TV series Roots and in the Pirates Rodney Bay, St Lucia of the Caribbean movies. Other boats also available. Rodney Bay Phone: 758-452-8644 Marina, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-452-8644. https://seaspraycruises.com https://seaspraycruises.com.

Typhoon Tours Rodney Bay Marina Speedboat take guests through crystal clear waters and past the natural Rodney Bay, St Lucia Tunnel of Love. Half-day, full day or sunset cruises are popular as are snorkeling expeditions. Rodney Bay Marina, Rodney Bay. Phone 758- Phone: 758-284-7575 284-7575. http://typhoontours.com. http://typhoontours.com St. Lucia's waters are good fishing grounds for blue marlin as well as for mackerel, kingfish, tuna, dorado, wahoo, barracuda and sailfish. Most boats accommodate six to eight anglers. Captain Mike's Sport Fishing & Pleasure Cruises Vigie Marina Full- or half-day charters are available on five boats. The aptly named Free Willey is a custom whale-watching boat. Vigie Marina, Castries. Castries, St Lucia Phone 758-452-7044. http://www.captmikes.com. Phone: 758-452-7044 http://www.captmikes.com

Hackshaw's Boat Charters Seraphine Road This company operates four boats, two of which are used primarily for Castries, St Lucia sportfishing. The other two are custom designed for whale-watching. Full and half-day charters available, as well as whale- and dolphin- Phone: 758-453-0553 watching tours. Seraphine Road, Castries. Phone 758-453-0553. http://www.hackshaws.com http://www.hackshaws.com.

St. Lucia has ideal conditions for golfing vacations, and the island has an 18-hole course and two nine-hole resort courses that are open to the public. Much of St. Lucia's interior is rain forest, and the best way to experience it is on a hike. A guide is recommended for hikes of all skill levels in the rain forest because it's easy to get lost in the dense plant growth. Wear sturdy shoes and take a rain poncho, a bottle of water and a snack.

Everyone must obtain permission from the Forestry Department when hiking in the rain forest, whether alone or with a guide. Hikes along designated trails, priced at US$2-$30 depending on distance and duration, may be arranged. Phone 758-468-5635. http://moa.malff.com.

The two small Maria Islands are a nature reserve operated by the National Trust. They can be visited by advance arrangement. Phone 758-454-5014. https://slunatrust.org/sites/maria-island-nature-reserve.

Barre de L'Isle Trail St Lucia Located on the eastern side of the island near Dennery, this moderate to vigorous trek offers views of the Roseau and Mabouya valleys and a Phone: 758-468-5645 chance to hike to the top of the 1,446-ft/4,448-m Morne la Combe. http://moa.malff.com Hiking the trail, which begins east of Soufriere on the road to Fond St. Jacques, takes three to four hours. It includes excellent views of St. Lucia's highest peak, Mount Gimie (pronounced JIM-ee). For a guide or trail information, contact the Forestry Department. Phone 758-468- 5645. http://moa.malff.com.

Edmund Forest Reserve Rain Forest Trail Soufriere, St Lucia This strenuous, up-terrain hike to the east of Soufriere requires a guide, 758-468-5645 and you'll need to make advance reservations with the Forestry Phone: Department's Environmental Education & Ecotourism Unit. Phone 758- http://moa.malff.com 468-5645. http://moa.malff.com.

Millet Bird Sanctuary Trail St Lucia One of a half-dozen nature trails maintained by the Forestry Department and designed for easy to moderate hiking. Bird-watchers enjoy the Millet Phone: 758-468-5645 Trail to the east of Anse La Raye, which is best explored with a guide http://moa.malff.com trained in spotting a wide variety of birds, including five endemic species. These four-hour birding walks may be scheduled by contacting the Forestry Department. Phone 758-468-5645. http://moa.malff.com.

Atlantic Shores Riding Stables New Dock Road Experience St. Lucia's landscapes by guided horseback ride. This Vieux Fort, St Lucia independent operator offers a mix of beach, country and private excursions on horseback. Good for beginners and pros. Daily 9 am-6 Phone: 758-454-8660 pm. New Dock Road, Vieux Fort. Phone 758-454-8660. https://www.atlanticridingstables.com https://www.atlanticridingstables.com.

International Riding Stables/Pony Club Beausejour Estate Offers riding for all levels, including bareback swims in the ocean. Beausejour Estate, Gros Islet. Phone 758-452-8139. Gros Islet, St Lucia https://www.facebook.com/intponyclub. Phone: 758-452-8139 https://www.facebook.com/intponyclub

Trim's Riding Stables Cas-en-Bas Offers trail rides and carriage rides on the north end of St. Lucia. Cas- Gros Islet, St Lucia en-Bas, Gros Islet. Phone 758-450-8273. https://www.trimsridingstables.com. Phone: 758-450-8273 https://www.trimsridingstables.com Diving and snorkeling are best in the Soufriere area, which is protected by the Soufriere Marine Management Area. In fact, the beach, and its reef, at Anse Chastanet Hotel, just north of Soufriere, is considered one of the 10 best dive sites in the Caribbean, with more than 150 species of fish (including the bizarre and uncommon frogfish and a 6-ft/2-m worm that has defied classification). The reef and the impressive underwater pinnacles nearby are accessible just by wading out from shore.

You can see giant sponges at the Piton Wall. Wreck divers may want to explore the Volga, just to the north of the Castries harbor, or the Lesleen M, a freighter sunk intentionally near Anse Cochon in 1986 with several open compartments in its hull.

In the event of a diving emergency, Tapion Hospital (phone 459-2000; http://tapionhospital.com) has a hyperbaric chamber, and the medical staff has completed a course given by Diver's Alert Network (DAN). DAN answers health-related questions about diving. For more information, phone 919-684-2948. Toll-free 800-326-3822. http://www.diversalertnetwork.org.

Eastern Caribbean Diving St. Lucia Rodney Bay Safety and fun is the mantra for this local dive operator which is a member of the PADI Five Star International Resort Association. Daily Gros Islet, St Lucia dive and snorkel trips are offered for novices and certified divers to see Phone: 758-456-9581 dive walls, wrecks and reefs. Located in the Windjammer Landing Beach http://www.easterncaribbeandivingstlucia.com Resort and Spa. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet. Phone 758-456-9581. http://www.easterncaribbeandivingstlucia.com. Scuba Steve's Diving Rodney Bay Run by Stephen and Shirley Smith, a transplanted British couple, this PADI operator offers certification programs and organizes boat Gros Islet, St Lucia excursions. Daily 8 am-5 pm. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet. Phone 758-450- Phone: 758-450-9344. 9344. After hours, contact Steve by cell phone at 758-450-9433. http://www.scubastevesdiving.com http://www.scubastevesdiving.com.

Scuba St. Lucia Soufriere, St Lucia Located at the beach at the Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain resorts 758-465-8242 in the Soufriere Marine Management Area. Equipment rental for certified Phone: divers, lessons and guided dives from the shore and by boat. Phone http://www.scubastlucia.com 758-465-8242. http://www.scubastlucia.com.

St. Lucia has excellent surfing—board, kite and wind—in the bay near Vieux Fort in the south and at Cas-en-Bas (Gros Islet) in the north. Beginning surfers will prefer the calmer waters on the Caribbean side of the island, and equipment and instruction are available at most large hotels and watersports shops on many beaches.

Sea kayaking has become increasingly popular, especially with ecotravelers, and St. Lucia's shoreline is cut by fantastic coves, hidden caves and steep cliffs, which are ideal for exploring by kayak.

Kayak St. Lucia Anse Chastanet Resort On Anse Chastanet and affiliated with the resort there, the beachside outfitter offers windsurfing and kayaking with top-of-the-line equipment, Soufriere, St Lucia instruction and guides. Anse Chastanet Resort, Soufriere. Phone 758- Phone: 758-459-7000 459-7000. http://www.ansechastanet.com/activities/watersports.html. http://www.ansechastanet.com/activities/watersports.html

The Reef Kite and Surf Anse de Sables Offers windsurfing and kitesurfing. Located next to Reef Restaurant and Vieux Fort, St Lucia Bar. Anse de Sables, Vieux Fort. Phone 758-454-3418. http://www.stluciawindsurfing.com. Phone: 758-454-3418 http://www.stluciawindsurfing.com Many of the large hotels and resorts have tennis courts for guest use. Nonguests may pay to play at some hotels when courts are not being used by guests. St. Lucia Yacht Club Rodney Bay Two air-conditioned squash courts are open to the public. Lessons also available by appointment. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 5-9 pm, Gros Islet, St Lucia Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7:30 pm. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet. Phone Phone: 758-452-8350 758-452-8350. http://stluciayachtclub.com. http://stluciayachtclub.com

Lucian Style Experiences 11 Reduit Beach Drive Experience the outdoors via Segway tours. This local operator's trained Rodney Bay, St Lucia guides offer instructions and guided tours such as sunset tours with dinner on the beach or off-road adventures on scenic trails to Mount Phone: 758-452-8300 Pimard. 11 Reduit Beach Drive, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-452-8300. http://lucianstyle.com http://lucianstyle.com.

Nightlife

Folkloric shows and local bands make up most of the entertainment in St. Lucia, and shows are found mainly at the hotels. In general, your best bet is to phone a hotel to see what's on and make a reservation if you like what you hear. During high season, hotels are crowded, and nonguests can't always walk in and find a table. Expect to pay a cover charge at most clubs or bars with a DJ or live music.

A lot of socializing takes place in village rum shops (there's one on every corner), but a handful of larger dance clubs exist on the island.

The yachting crowd hangs out around the marina at Rodney Bay, and the bars and restaurants on the water often host live bands or other entertainment. On Friday night the whole island, both locals and visitors, turns out for the local street party, or Jump-Up, at Gros Islet near Rodney Bay. Soca blares from huge speakers. There's beer and dancing (locals call it wining), and home-style food—grilled chicken, lambi (conch), rice and beans—is sold by vendors from grills set up on the street. The party lasts well past midnight. No matter where you are, every cabdriver knows the way. But stay on the main street, don't overdress and keep your valuables close.

A similar party takes place at the same time in Anse La Raye. Tourists have been known to outnumber St. Lucians at the Gros Islet Jump-Up on Rodney Bay, so attend the Anse La Raye Friday Night Fish Fry to lime (socialize) with the locals, dance and sample seafood straight from the sea. Or hop from one party to the other to enjoy the best of both.

You can find a listing of current entertainment, including live band performances and theme-night parties, in Tropical Traveller, a widely available free publication. https://tropicaltraveller.com.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Coconutz Rodney Bay Village This beachfront bar packs in crowds during sunset. Great vibes and food mix with the good music. It's the perfect little hang-out bar. Rodney Gros Islet, St Lucia Bay Village, Gros Islet. Phone 758-723-0751. Phone: 758-723-0751 https://www.facebook.com/coconutzslu. https://www.facebook.com/coconutzslu

Lifeline Bar Anse Chastanet Road If you're willing to splurge, sample the award-winning cocktails at the Soufriere, St Lucia Lifeline Bar, located in the Hummingbird Beach Resort's Hummingbird Restaurant. There is live music and dancing on Wednesday night. Anse Phone: 758-459-7232 Chastanet Road, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7232. http://www.hummingbirdbeachresort.com/dining http://www.hummingbirdbeachresort.com/dining.

The Bar at Dasheene Soufriere-Castries Highway If you're inclined for a quiet evening, the bar at Ladera Resort's Dasheene Restaurant offers drinks and laid-back entertainment against Soufriere, St Lucia LC09 101 a stunning backdrop of The Pitons. Soufriere-Castries Highway, Phone: 758-459-7323 Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7323. https://www.ladera.com/dining.html. https://www.ladera.com/dining.html

K's Lounge Rodney Bay Strip This popular watering hole houses several bars and hosts theme nights, Gros Islet, St Lucia such as Remix Wednesday. Wednesday-Monday noon-3 am. $-$$. Rodney Bay Strip, Gros Islet. Phone 758-458-5872. Phone: 758-458-5872 https://www.facebook.com/ultraloungeslu. https://www.facebook.com/ultraloungeslu

Shopping

Shop for cane furniture, West Indian crafts, pottery, wood carvings, woven straw and other locally made handicrafts. Throughout the island, small shops and vendors sell T-shirts, costume jewelry and straw crafts. The island swarms with talented wood carvers. Some sell their work at scenic stops along the winding road from Anse la Raye to Soufriere and beyond, where vendors also offer other crafty souvenirs.

Duty-free luxury items are sold mostly at the duty-free shops in or near the cruise terminals at Pointe Seraphine and La Place Carenage. They offer good prices on the usual array of luxury items: perfumes, china, crystal, jewelry, watches, leather goods, liquor and cigarettes. (A passport and cruise ID are necessary for duty-free prices.)

Large resorts have boutiques and gift shops that often carry unique products made on St. Lucia or other Caribbean islands. The prices will be higher than those at independent stores, shopping malls or outdoor markets, but quality is high and the sales staff usually knows details about the artists or craftsmen.

Bargaining isn't customary in St. Lucia's shops. You'll have to be good at it—and have the right change—to bargain with street or marketplace vendors.

Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 8:30 am-12:30 pm and 1:30-4:30 pm; Saturday 8:30 am-12:30 pm. Shopping malls are usually open until 6 pm. Many stores have extended hours when cruise ships are in port, and often will open (on short notice) on Sunday. Galleries

Alcina Art Gallery Castries, St Lucia Handmade jewelry, island-inspired original prints and a variety of paintings make this gallery a standout. Gallery owner Alcina Nolley Phone: 758-453-2338 produces handcrafts and other art pieces using such mediums as silver, https://www.alcinanolley.com clay, oil paints and watercolor. Phone 758-453-2338. https://www.alcinanolley.com.

Choiseul Art Gallery River Doree, Choiseul This local art gallery has a range of oil paintings depicting St. Lucian St Lucia landscapes as well as prints and greeting cards. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm. River Doree, Choiseul, St. Lucia. Phone 758-715-5740. Phone: 758-715-5740 https://www.facebook.com/choiseulartgallery. https://www.facebook.com/choiseulartgallery

Eudovic's Art Studio Morne Fortune For fine wood carvings, see the work of acclaimed artist Vincent Joseph Eudovic in his studio about 15 minutes south of Castries. His son Jallim Castries, St Lucia also has won awards for his own wood art, and his wife makes whisk- Phone: 758-452-2747 broom dolls in traditional plaid madras costumes. Morne Fortune, http://eudovicart.com Castries. Phone 758-452-2747. http://eudovicart.com.

Llewellyn Xavier Studio Cap Estate Considered the island's most important artist—his works are in the Gros Islet, St Lucia permanent collections of the Smithsonian and the Metropolitan Museum of Art—Llewellyn Xavier's interesting shop features his own work. Cap Phone: 758-450-9155 Estate, Gros Islet. Phone 758-450-9155. http://www.llewellynxavier.com. http://www.llewellynxavier.com

Castries Market Jeremie and Peynier streets This iconic market offers good prices on homemade hot-pepper sauces, Castries, St Lucia straw products and island spices. Vendors have been selling their wares in the market since 1891. The arcade and market are especially fun on Saturday mornings, and on the Market Vendors' Feast Day in August. (Skip anything made of turtle shell or black coral—it's illegal to buy or sell these products on St. Lucia.) An anticipated renovation of the facilities will include a new food court and other high end restaurants, as well as a viewing tower, entertainment area, meat and fish depots and duty-free shopping boutiques. Monday-Saturday. Jeremie and Peynier streets, Castries.

Baywalk Mall Rodney Bay Located at the entrance to Rodney Bay Village, the Baywalk features more than 50 stores and restaurants on two floors, including a casino, a Gros Islet, St Lucia LC01 601 supermarket complete with deli and wine section, plenty of eateries and Phone: 758-452-6666 duty-free shopping. Monday-Thursday 9 am-7 pm, Friday and Saturday http://www.baywalkslu.com 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 9 am-2 pm. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet. Phone 758- 452-6666. http://www.baywalkslu.com.

JQ Rodney Bay Mall Rodney Bay Just what you'd expect in a mall: supermarket, bank, pharmacy, Castries, St Lucia specialty stores and clothing. There are some appealing local arts-and- craft stores upstairs. Monday-Thursday 9 am-7 pm, Friday and Phone: 758-458-0700 Saturday 9 am-8 pm. Rodney Bay, Castries. Phone 758-458-0700. http://www.shopjqmall.com http://www.shopjqmall.com.

Marina Village Marigot Bay Luxury shops, a gourmet supermarket and a wine shop facing a charming courtyard. Products are predictably expensive and high- Soufriere, St Lucia quality. Marigot Bay, Soufriere. https://www.marigotbayresort.com/marina/marina- https://www.marigotbayresort.com/marina/marina-village. village

Afri Caribe Arts & Crafts Rodney Bay Mall Sculpted wood and textured fabrics with an Afro-centric edge. Lots of little goodies, too. Monday-Thursday 9 am-7 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 Castries, St Lucia am-8 pm. Rodney Bay Mall, Castries. Phone 758-458-0418. Phone: 758-458-0418

Artfully Crafted Rodney Bay Mall Textile art, soft furnishings, fabric dolls and wood carvings. Monday- Castries, St Lucia Thursday 9 am-7 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 am-8 pm. Rodney Bay Mall, Castries. Phone 758-452-0372. Phone: 758-452-0372

Caribbean Blue Naturals Rodney Bay Mall Local coconut accessories, essential oils and herbal extracts for healing Castries, St Lucia applications, sold in a fragrant and tranquil environment. Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm. Rodney Bay Mall, Castries. Phone 758-452-8176. Phone: 758-452-8176 https://www.gocaribbeanblue.com. https://www.gocaribbeanblue.com

Caribelle Batik 37 Old Victoria Road You can find batik clothing and household items in beautifully vivid St Lucia colors—handmade on the premises. Watch the silk-screening process on weekdays at Hewelton House, a renovated two-story white Victorian Phone: 758-452-3785 home with canary-yellow trim. 37 Old Victoria Road, Morne Fortune (on https://www.facebook.com/HoweltonEstate the hill above Castries), St. Lucia. Phone 758-452-3785. https://www.facebook.com/HoweltonEstate.

Zaka's Art Cafe Bay Street The age-old tradition of mask making meets modern color and design. Soufriere, St Lucia This iconic mask maker creates top-quality, award-winning "Zaka masks" that are made from salvaged woods, hand-carved and painted. Phone: 758-457-1504 The masks and totems are collected and exhibited worldwide and found http://www.zaka-art.com/? all around the island. Each piece is made from natural driftwood, and fbclid=IwAR0epL2BJlc0KfNFl8JVw4C_- the in-store selection changes frequently. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm. GtKQhnU9CALCHV18Sag447xwHAYsVMO39A Bay Street, Soufriere. Phone 758-457-1504. http://www.zaka-art.com/? fbclid=IwAR0epL2BJlc0KfNFl8JVw4C_- GtKQhnU9CALCHV18Sag447xwHAYsVMO39A.

Itinerary

Local Tours

Among the most popular sites on St. Lucia, the star is the twin-mountain UNESCO World Heritage site, Gros Piton (2,619 ft/800 m) and Petit Piton (2,460 ft/750 m). Most visitors settle for viewing and photographing the stunningly beautiful peaks, but experienced hikers will want the challenge of reaching the summit.

A guide is mandatory, and treks begin at the Gros Piton Tour Guide Association located at the Interpretation Centre at the foot of the mountain in the village of Fond Gens Libre, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-9748.

Pigeon Point National Park is another must-see. The ruins of Fort Rodney are scattered on the hilltops and around the grounds.

Fabian Taxi Services Castries, St Lucia LC04 301 Fabian customizes excursions in air-conditioned vans to fit visitors' 758-384-7847 interests and time limits. Phone 758-384-7847. Phone: http://www.fabiantoursstlucia.com. http://www.fabiantoursstlucia.com

Heritage Tours La Clery The volunteer Heritage Tourism Association of St. Lucia takes Castries, St Lucia individuals and groups to remote parts of the island to experience history and cultural traditions in unique locations. La Clery, Castries. Phone: 758-458-1454 Phone 758-458-1454 or 758-285-6058. https://www.heritagetoursstlucia.org https://www.heritagetoursstlucia.org.

Island Adventures Beausejour Road This company takes passengers on a variety of full-day Jeep safari trips. Gros Islet, St Lucia 00124 Beausejour Road, Gros Islet. Phone 758-450-4001. https://www.facebook.com/islandadventuresslu. Phone: 758-450-4001 https://www.facebook.com/islandadventuresslu

Jungle Tours Cas-en-bas See the rain forest by four-wheel-drive, open-air vehicle, hike the trails Gros Islet, St Lucia (all levels), swim in the sea and enjoy a picnic lunch. Cas-en-bas, Gros Islet. Phone 758-715-3438. http://www.jungletoursstlucia.com. Phone: 758-715-3438 http://www.jungletoursstlucia.com

Rain Forest Adventures 6066 Car Park St. Lucia's rain forest is impressive from ground level, but the views of Castries, St Lucia the old-growth forest in the mountains in Chassin, Babonneau are even more spectacular from above. Rain Forest Sky Rides offers a 75-minute Phone: 758-458-5151 tour on an aerial tram that climbs to 2,000 ft/620 m above sea level. https://www.rainforestadventure.com/pages/st- Zipline rides through the tree tops are also available. 6066 Car Park, lucia Castries. Phone 758-458-5151. Toll-free 866-759-8726. https://www.rainforestadventure.com/pages/st-lucia.

Real St. Lucia Tours Waterfront, Soucis Explore privately or join a group to see St. Lucia's wonders with an Castries, St Lucia informed and pleasant driver. Waterfront, Soucis, Castries. Phone 758- 486-1561. https://www.realsaintluciatours.com. Phone: 758-486-1561 https://www.realsaintluciatours.com

St. Lucia Helicopters Pointe Seraphine Options range from a 10-minute north island tour to a 30-minute north and south island tour. Pointe Seraphine, Castries. Phone 758-453-6950. Castries, St Lucia https://www.stluciahelicopters.com. Phone: 758-453-6950 https://www.stluciahelicopters.com

One week is the absolute minimum stay in St. Lucia. It's a beautiful island—don't rush through it. Pick one hotel and make it your base for the week.

Day 1—Arrive in St. Lucia.

Day 2—Relax and enjoy a day on the beach. Reduit at Rodney Bay is among the more popular for watersports.

Day 3—Spend the day at Pigeon Point National Park. Tour the ruins, museum and historic Fort Rodney, and then spend the afternoon on the beach.

Day 4—See the sights in the Soufriere area, including Diamond Falls Botanical Garden and the drive-in volcano at Sulfur Springs. Take an old swimsuit and immerse yourself in a hot, healing volcanic mud bath.

Day 5—Spend the day on the east side of the island. Stop to walk through the shady Mamiku Gardens, then take a rain-forest tour. Join the surfers for lunch at a beach cafe in Vieux Fort.

Day 6—Take a cruise with one of many local cruise operators.

Day 7—Depart St. Lucia.

If you're in St. Lucia on a Friday night and you like loud music and dancing, join the late-night street party at Gros Islet or arrange for a ride to Anse La Raye for the Friday Night Fish Fry.

To help you get the most out of your time in St. Lucia, we've designed five different itineraries. PLAN A (Castries)

A Gorgeous Bay and a Bubbling Volcano

Find others to join you and hire a cab for the day. First, drive down to Marigot Bay, one of the most scenic coves you'll ever find. Swim or just relax on the beach.

Check what the beach vendors are offering—usually jewelry, items woven from palm fronds (including lifelike grasshoppers and birds, which make unusual Christmas-tree ornaments), straw hats and other crafts. For refreshments, stop at one of the small bars that dot the coast.

Afterward, drive south to Soufriere, stopping along the way to enjoy the gorgeous views of the Pitons. Then make your way to the volcano at Sulphur Springs Park (the sunset colors of the bubbling landscape are caused by mineral deposits).

PLAN B (Castries)

First Shop, Then See Rodney Bay

Begin with the boutiques around the cruise ship terminals at Pointe Seraphine or La Place Carenage. A water taxi shuttles passengers between the two terminals. Then proceed into town to the Castries Market and Vendor's Arcade on Jeremie Street for island crafts, herbs and souvenirs. Look inside the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception—its decorations are an interesting mixture of African and Christian traditions—and stop by the town square, which displays busts of the island's two Nobel laureates, Derek Walcott and Sir Arthur Lewis. Take a taxi up to Morne Fortune for the view and to visit the studio and shop at Caribelle Batik. Back in town, have lunch at Pointe Seraphine or pick up some authentic roti, dal or bouillon from a vendor in the Central Market (in town).

Then take a taxi north to Rodney Bay and Pigeon Point National Park. If you want to swim or sunbathe, take a towel and a swimsuit and enjoy the beautiful white-sand beach at Pigeon Point. Or get a taxi driver to take you just north of Castries to the Union Nature Trail for an easy, 45-minute hike. Arrange to have the driver return when you're done.

PLAN C (Castries or Soufriere)

The Best Spot for Snorkeling

Some of the best snorkeling of St. Lucia is at the Anse Chastanet Resort. The most exhilarating way to get there is via boat from either Castries or Soufriere. (You can also go by road, but it's a bumpy 90-minute ride from Castries and a shorter, though still bumpy, drive from Soufriere.) The resort offers superb scuba diving and snorkeling just off the beach, plus lunch and shopping. Great views, too.

You could take in the underwater scenery first or take an easy walk or a short boat ride to Anse Mamin (pronounced ma-MEEN) for a tour of a 17th-century sugar plantation. There's an optional tricky climb to some ruins, but the nature walk is easy. You'll learn plenty about the local vegetation and about the harrowing conditions slaves endured cultivating the sugarcane fields that once covered the area. Be sure to sample some raw cocoa.

You can also hire a motorboat at Anse Chastanet to take you for a close-up view of the massive Pitons. Or have lunch at the resort and spend the rest of your time in the shops.

PLAN D (Soufriere)

The Volcano, the Falls and the Baths

Explore Soufriere on foot, then hire a taxi to take you to La Soufriere volcano and Sulphur Springs Park. Next, visit Diamond Falls and Botanical Gardens (you can soak in a restorative mineral bath if you wish). Finish the morning with a drive to Anse Chastanet for lunch at the resort and some time on the beach, with a fine view of the Pitons.

When you feel like moving again, stroll the grounds of the nearby Fond Doux Estate, taking in the exhibit of vintage farm equipment, and then head back to Soufriere.

PLAN E (Soufriere)

The Rain Forest

Contact the Forest and Lands Department in advance to arrange to hike a portion of the 7-mi/11-km Edmund Forest Reserve Rain Forest Trail. You'll need a guide and basic equipment—sturdy shoes, rain gear, water and food. (Or ask at the tourist office on Bay Street—the staff might be able to find a place for you on a tour that's already scheduled, perhaps through one of the resorts.) The view is spectacular. Your guide will point out lesser-known plants, many of which have been used for centuries as folk medicines. Be aware that this can be a strenuous trek. Alternatively, see the rain forest from the tree tops on a zipline or tram ride.

DINING Dining Overview

St. Lucia's cooking is West Indian, hearty and filling, and heavy on the Creole. Spicy roasted or fried chicken, beef (not usually very tender), fish, crayfish or land crabs are accompanied by cooked breadfruit and other squashlike vegetables such as dasheen and christophene. Curry goat is a tasty variation of beef stew, and rotis—Caribbean burritos of East Indian origin—are a soft tortilla-type crepe filled with curried chicken, beef or goat and local vegetables. Dals are similar to rotis, but they're wrapped in dough and deep fried or baked. Dals usually contain a mixture of curried lentils, local vegetables and saltfish.

The national dish is green fig (a boiled, unripe banana) and saltfish. Make it a point to try banana cake, pumpkin souffle, callaloo soup (similar to spinach soup, made with leaves from the dasheen, or taro, root), lambi (conch), lobster Creole, spiny lobster or any other seafood or fish dish (kingfish, dolphin fish, dorado, flying fish and lobster are all caught locally). And always ask for the local juice of the day (such as tamarind, guava, passion fruit, mango and grapefruit).

Heineken beer is brewed on the island. Piton, a local beer, is made in the same brewery as Piton Shandys, which is a blend of beer, spices and fruit juice in a lighter, less-alcoholic drink. Bounty is the local rum, distilled near Roseau in the Cul-de-Sac Valley southeast of Castries.

Except for the larger hotels and better restaurants, St. Lucia's restaurants are informal (T-shirts and shorts are often worn at dinner). General dining times are 7-9 am for breakfast and 11 am-2 pm for lunch. Dinner is often served at dusk. Restaurants located in hotels and tourist areas occasionally stay open later, but don't expect to dine past 9 pm.

Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$16-$30; $$$ = US$31-$60; $$$$ = more than US$60. Remember that the cafes may not accept credit cards.

Dasheene Restaurant Ladera Resort, Jalousle This restaurant in the Ladera Resort combines views of the Pitons with superb food. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most Soufriere, St Lucia LC09 101 major credit cards. Ladera Resort, Jalousle, Soufriere. Phone 758-459- Phone: 758-459-7323 7323. https://www.ladera.com/dining.html. https://www.ladera.com/dining.html

Delice Restaurant and Bar West Coast Road, Colombette Located at La Haut Resort, this tranquil great house surrounded by Soufriere, St Lucia fragrant flowering plants provides spectacular views of the Pitons. Local Creole and international dishes are served. Daily 8 am-3 pm. Phone: 758-459-7008 Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. West Coast http://www.lahaut.com Road, Colombette, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7008. http://www.lahaut.com.

Hummingbird Restaurant Anse Chastanet Road Located in the Hummingbird Beach Resort and surrounded by greenery Soufriere, St Lucia with a little bar and a pool, this restaurant is populated by serious sailors. Lunch is usually soups and sandwiches; dinners are full Creole Phone: 758-459-7985 meals of seafood and local vegetables. Daily for lunch and dinner. http://www.hummingbirdbeachresort.com/dining Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards (but cash is preferred). Anse Chastanet Road, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7985. http://www.hummingbirdbeachresort.com/dining.

Orlando's Restaurant & Bar Bridge Street For a selection of taste treats, try ti manje ("little plates" in Creole). Soufriere, St Lucia Original cocktails feature fresh tropical fruits, and the small wine list has good choices. Daily 7:30 am-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$- Phone: 758-572-6613 $$$$. Most major credit cards. Bridge Street, Soufriere. Phone 758-572- http://www.orlandosrestaurantstl.com 6613. http://www.orlandosrestaurantstl.com.

Trou au Diable Anse Chastanet Beach This restaurant is located at the Anse Chastanet Hotel. Most evenings, the restaurant offers East Indian-Caribbean fusion dishes, but on Soufriere, St Lucia Tuesday diners are treated to a menu of traditional island favorites. Phone: 758-459-7000 There's a view of the Pitons, too. Daily for lunch and dinner. http://www.ansechastanet.com/dining.html Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Anse Chastanet Beach, Soufriere. Phone 758-459-7000. http://www.ansechastanet.com/dining.html.

Asian

Kimonos Sandals Regency La Toc Resort Jutting toward the sea from a cliff at Sandals La Toc, this Japanese- Castries, St Lucia inspired restaurant is dramatic in every respect. The two-level structure resembles a teetering teahouse nestled in the trees, and meals are Phone: 758-452-3081 prepared tableside on a teppanyaki grill. Chefs impress diners with their https://www.sandals.com/regency-la- knife skills as they chop, stir and sizzle a variety of meats, seafood, rice toc/restaurants and vegetables that are flipped straight from the grill to waiting dinner plates. Daily 6-9 pm. Resort-casual dress is required, and reservations are essential, with priority given to registered guests of the resort. $$$$. Sandals Regency La Toc Resort, Castries. Phone 758-452-3081. https://www.sandals.com/regency-la-toc/restaurants.

Razmataz Rodney Bay On restaurant row in the heart of busy Rodney Bay, this East Indian Gros Islet, St Lucia restaurant offers well-priced authentic dishes, including masalas, kormas and tandoori specialties. Dine indoors or on the garden patio. Phone: 758-452-9800 Wednesday-Monday 5-11 pm. $$. Rodney Bay, Gros Islet. Phone 758- http://razmatazrestaurant.com 452-9800. http://razmatazrestaurant.com.

Spice of India Baywalk Mall Authentic regional cuisines of India include halal options and meals suitable for vegans. Goat provides unusual fare, and the breads are Rodney Bay, St Lucia musts. Sensual, sophisticated decor removes diners from the mindset of Phone: 758-458-4243 the surrounding mall. So does the staff. Monday from 6 pm, Tuesday- https://spiceofindiastlucia.com Sunday from noon. $-$$. Baywalk Mall, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-458- 4243. https://spiceofindiastlucia.com.

Jacques Waterfront Dining Reduit Beach Avenue Chef Jacques Rioux uses the freshest seafood available to create French dishes with Caribbean flair. He's known for his sauces, and Rodney Bay, St Lucia some say this is one of the best restaurants on the island. The open-air Phone: 758-458-1900 restaurant sits above Vigie Cove with views of the lights of Castries https://jacquesrestaurant.com across the water. Don't miss the bar's creative cocktails. Monday 6-10 pm, Tuesday-Saturday noon-10 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-3 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Reduit Beach Avenue, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-458-1900. https://jacquesrestaurant.com.

Chic Reduit Beach This sleek contemporary space at the Mystique Royal St. Lucia has an innovative international fusion menu, fine wines and sophisticated Gros Islet, St Lucia service. Daily for dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit Phone: 758-452-9999 cards. Reduit Beach, Gros Islet. Phone 758-452-9999. https://www.mystiqueresorts.com/resort/mystique- https://www.mystiqueresorts.com/resort/mystique-royal-st-lucia/dining. royal-st-lucia/dining

Tao Cariblue Beach Located at the BodyHoliday resort, this beachfront restaurant serves Castries, St Lucia Asian-fusion cuisine in a stylish atmosphere that still leaves room to enjoy the ocean breezes and sunsets. Nonguests are welcome with Phone: 758-450-7800 advance reservations. Elegantly casual attire required. Daily from 7:30 https://www.thebodyholiday.com/cuisine/our- pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Cariblue restaurants/tao Beach, Castries. Phone 758-450-7800. https://www.thebodyholiday.com/cuisine/our-restaurants/tao. Windsong at Calabash Cove Bonaire Estate, Marisule This upscale restaurant features an ever-changing menu that focuses Gros Islet, St Lucia on Asian-fusion recipes. The sleek restaurant sits high above the Caribbean off the lobby of the Calabash Cove Resort. Guests may want Phone: 758-456-3500 to arrive in advance of their reservation time to enjoy cocktails as they https://calabashcove.com/dining watch the sun set into the sea. Oenophiles will enjoy the wine list. Daily 7:30 am-9:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Bonaire Estate, Marisule, Gros Islet. Phone 758-456-3500. https://calabashcove.com/dining.

Tapas on the Bay The Waterfront Little dishes from around the world in Spanish-style surroundings. Rodney Bay, St Lucia Bruschetta, fiery shrimp and tuna carpaccio are just a few. It also offers a well-lit dinghy dock that welcomes diners who arrive by sea. Monday- Phone: 758-451-2433 Friday 5-10:30 pm, Saturday 10 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. https://tapasonthebay.com Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. The Waterfront, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-451-2433. https://tapasonthebay.com.

Steak Houses

Big Chef Steakhouse Reduit Beach Avenue Visitors have to squeeze in with a crowd of locals at this ragingly popular Rodney Bay, St Lucia restaurant run by Le Cordon Bleu chef Rosie Joinville. In addition to steak, the menu features a large selection of creative appetizers and Phone: 758-450-0210 inspired international entrees. There's live entertainment some nights. http://www.bigchefsteakhouse.com Daily 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Reduit Beach Avenue, Rodney Bay. Phone 758-450-0210. http://www.bigchefsteakhouse.com.

SECURITY

Etiquette

Use proper swimwear on St. Lucia's beaches; nude sunbathing is not legal anywhere on the island, but topless sunbathing may be permitted at resorts and tolerated on public beaches. Outside of beaches and resorts, wear a shirt, wrap or coverup. Never enter a taxi wearing a wet suit.

Ask locals for permission before taking their photo; it's the polite thing to do, and some get offended if you fail to ask first.

Crime does exist in St. Lucia, and tourists are easy targets, so exercise common sense. Don't flash large amounts of money, and don't leave valuables unattended, especially on beaches and in parked cars. Beware of self-described guides who may approach you at major attractions: They have been known to charge exorbitant amounts. If you want their services, agree on a price in advance. If not, say no firmly.

There have been occasional reports of hostility directed at visitors in remote areas. These incidents are infrequent, but it's wise to be aware of your surroundings at all times. Visitors are advised to stay on main streets that are patrolled by police. Use caution while walking alone at night, and avoid isolated beaches after dark.

Historic sites such as Pigeon Point National Park have private security to avert problems, and local police have launched the Rapid Response Unit to deal with crime in the northern part of the island, particularly in the Rodney Bay area. For assistance, phone 758- 452-8155. For the latest information or to report a crime or loss of a passport, contact your country's travel-advisory agency. Up-to-date security information also is available toll-free in the U.S. and Canada at 888-407-4747; callers outside the U.S. and Canada may phone the regular line in the U.S. at 202-501-4444.

Dial 999 to report any type of emergency on the island.

It's safe to eat the food and drink the water in large hotels and restaurants, but bottled water is widely available. Drought can degrade the quality of tap water. At those times, bottled or filtered water is preferable. Be cautious of food served by street vendors.

Do not drink water from streams or rivers, and ask locally whether it's safe before swimming in any freshwater pools or rivers: The parasite that causes bilharzia (schistosomiasis)—a disease that can cause liver damage—has been eradicated on most of the island but still exists in a couple of remote rivers. Salt water and chlorinated water in swimming pools are safe. If you suffer from sulfite sensitivity, you would do best to avoid the fumes of the volcanoes altogether.

Be sure to take along plenty of strong insect repellent. If you are staying in a forested area, use a mosquito coil or vape mat in your room. Dengue fever is present on the island, and it is transmitted by mosquitoes that bite during the day. Day and early nighttime mosquitoes are vectors for the chikungunya virus. The virus places young children, the elderly, women in late pregnancy and those with serious underlying health problems most at risk, and in rare instances it can be fatal.

The extremely poisonous (but very rare) fer-de-lance snake also resides on St. Lucia—wear boots whenever hiking. The sun is strong, so use sunscreen and wear a hat. Don't forget a pair of comfortable walking shoes.

There are two health-care facilities near Castries: Victoria Hospital (phone 758-452-2421) is a public facility with a 24-hour emergency room, and Tapion Hospital (phone 758-459-2000), which provides the most comprehensive care on the island and has a hyperbolic chamber for diving accidents, is private. Saint Lucia Dialysis also is located in the Tapion Hospital and provides treatment for visitors who require dialysis during their vacation.

St. Jude's Hospital in Vieux Fort also functions as a pharmacy and has a 24-hour emergency room (phone 758-454-6041). Visitors in Soufriere and Dennery should contact the local hospitals (phone 758-459-7258 and 758-453-3310, respectively).

In the north, the main providers are the Gros Islet Polyclinic (phone 450-9661) and the Rodney Bay Medical Centre (phone 758-452- 6582). Visitors would be more comfortable at the latter. The M&C Drug Store in Bay Walk Mall, Rodney Bay, is open Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-1 pm.

For more information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.

Visitors who require a wheelchair or walker may find St. Lucia difficult to manage because of the mountainous terrain. Some of the most popular hotels are built on a hillside or have unpaved walkways that are not suitable for disabled guests, but a variety of resorts have accessible rooms; ask before you book. St. Lucia is still a few years away from compliance with disability norms, but special efforts, even if at the last minute, will be made to accommodate at almost any hotel or restaurant (less so shops and museums) where space allows.

Tropical Dreams, based in Gros Islet, offers tours and activities for visitors with mobility limitations or physical challenges. The Handicapped Diving Program is particularly popular, and other options include a beach wheelchair that also floats, shopping in Castries and partying with locals at the Friday Night Fish Fry in Anse La Raye. Transportation is provided in a specially equipped van, and electric scooters may be rented by the day or week. Phone 758-722-3669. https://www.mytropicaldreams.net.

Don't pick the bananas or any other fruit off the trees. You may be stealing someone's crop—besides, bananas are not nearly as sweet (even if they're yellow) when they ripen on the tree. Always ask before picking.

Don't sunbathe in the nude. It is illegal in most places in St. Lucia.

Don't be offended by aggressive taxi drivers who repeatedly yell at female travelers, "Miss, taxi? Taxi, miss?" Just politely but firmly decline or, if that doesn't work, ignore them.

Do book your flight at least six months in advance if you plan to visit during the two weeks before and after Christmas, and two months ahead if you are attending the St. Lucia Jazz Festival. Many St. Lucians living abroad go home for Christmas, making it difficult to get a flight then.

Don't wear camouflage clothing in St. Lucia—it's illegal, and you could face a hefty fine.

Do join locals at public festivals and events. Residents also enjoy talking with visitors at restaurants, bars and public places frequented by tourists, but walk briskly away from anyone asking for money or offering, unasked, to drive or lead you to any destination. Don't assume that if you see surfers at a given beach it's safe to swim there. Many of St. Lucia's beaches have strong undertow currents which may not inhibit surfers farther out on the breakers, but can pull you out if you're not careful.

Do greet people with "good morning," "good afternoon" and so forth when you enter their space. It is not considered mannerly to wait for them to address you.

Do expect to be serenaded at night by crickets and frogs if you are staying in a forested location. Light sleepers should take earplugs.

Do take old clothes or a swimsuit that you don't prize if you plan to soak in the sulfur springs. The water will discolor whatever you wear.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. For entry to St. Lucia, your passport must be valid for at least six months after your trip. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Visas are not required for citizens of the U.S. or certain Commonwealth countries. Visitors who are unsure of their country's agreement with St. Lucia may contact the Visa Office of the Immigration Department. Phone 758-456-3825. http://www.govt.lc/faqs.

Proof of onward passage is required by all. A departure tax of US$35 is added to the price of all tickets for passengers older than age 12 at the time of purchase. (Children younger than 12 are exempt.) Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departure.

Population: 180,099.

Languages: English, Creole (French patois).

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant).

Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.

Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Newer buildings have either dual or 110 outlets.

Telephone Codes: 758, country code;

Currency Exchange

The Eastern Caribbean (EC$) dollar is the official currency. However, U.S. dollars are widely accepted in tourist areas. Be aware that a business may take U.S. dollars but give change in EC dollars. Always ask specifically if prices quoted are in U.S. or EC dollars. A good strategy is to carry a small amount of cash in EC dollars, especially in the smaller villages, for small purchases but plan to use U.S. dollars or a major credit card for most other transactions. Do not attempt to pay for goods with U.S. coins; they are usually not welcome (although bills are).

Currency exchange is available at banks, major hotels and the ship terminals. ATMs are widely available, except in small villages, and dispense local currency. Most banks are open Monday-Thursday 8 am-3 pm, Friday 8 am-5 pm, but the banks at the Rodney Bay Marina are open 8 am-noon on Saturday, as well.

Major credit cards are accepted by most hotels, restaurants and businesses, especially in tourist areas. Gas stations and small businesses usually do not accept credit cards.

With the exception of some food items, value-added tax (VAT) of 15% is added to purchases, and a rate of 10% applies to accommodation, meals, beverages and tours.

In addition, most establishments also add a 10% service charge, which is not always explicitly stated, so be sure to ask ahead of time. Duty-free shopping is available with presentation of a passport and either an airline ticket or cruise-ship identification. A 10% service charge is included in hotel and restaurant bills, but this charge usually does not go to the staff. Tips are appreciated, especially for exceptional service. At restaurants leave 15%, or 20% for exceptional service. Tip porters US$1 per bag.

Weather

December-May is the driest and coolest time, with day temperatures in the 70s-80s F/23-32 C and night temperatures in the 60s-70s F/15-27 C. During the hottest time of year (June-August), daytime temperatures can reach the 90s F/32-37 C. The rainy season is June-November, but don't expect a constant downpour. Rather, there are numerous short but incredibly intense showers. Trade winds provide breezes year-round, regardless of the season.

St. Lucia is casual during the day, and shorts are fine for laid-back cafes. Swimwear should never be worn anyplace except the beach or pool, unless on resort property.

On the other hand, even in the best restaurants, men usually are not expected to wear jackets or ties, and resort-casual wear is fine (sport shirts and dress slacks for men; skirts, sundresses or dress slacks for women). Check when you make reservations if you are unsure.

Telephone

St. Lucia is served by Digicel (https://www.digicelgroup.com/lc) and Flow (https://discoverflow.co/saint-lucia). Cell phones, SIM cards and prepaid plans can be purchased from both providers. Information is available at airports and cruise-ship terminals, as well as at tourist information offices and kiosks throughout the island. In some areas, signal reception is spotty.

Card pay phones are being phased out but are still available in some commercial areas such as shopping malls. Coin-operated pay phones are now a thing of the past.

The area code for St. Lucia is 758. While on the island, dial only the seven-digit local number. When calling the island from the U.S., or vice versa, dial 1, then the area code plus the seven-digit local number. To phone the U.K. from St. Lucia, dial 011, plus 44, then the local number. For all other country codes and dialing instructions, contact the phone service provider.

For directory assistance, dial 411.

Hotels and internet cafes (typically located in the major shopping centers) offer wired and wireless internet access, some with fees, some without. Wi-Fi hot spots also are widely available. Visitors can obtain information about nearby internet cafes and Wi-Fi hot spot locations by inquiring at their hotel reception desk. You can mail postcards and letters from the post office in Castries as well as in smaller village offices in Vieux Fort, Gros Islet, Soufriere and elsewhere. The main office in Castries is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. http://www.stluciapostal.com.

Be aware that mail sent internationally will take a long time to reach its destination, and international postal rates can be costly. Private courier services, as with elsewhere in the Caribbean as a whole, may take up to two weeks to deliver.

Some retailers may offer to package and ship purchases, but research precise costs before buying anything too large to carry onboard or put into checked luggage.

The Voice (https://thevoiceslu.com), The Star (https://stluciastar.com) and The St. Lucia Mirror (https://www.stlucianewsonline.com) are St. Lucia's main newspapers. International newspapers are available at most large hotels.

Published every other month, Tropical Traveller lists current events and scheduled entertainment. Free copies are found at restaurants, tourist-information kiosks, hotel lobbies and other locations throughout the island. https://tropicaltraveller.com.

The annual publication Paradise St. Lucia provides broad, general information. http://paradisestlucia.com.

Transportation

The best way to see the island is on foot or in a taxi so you can focus on the sights rather than navigating the confusing maze of streets in a rental car. T he cities are pedestrian-friendly enough for the able-bodied, but visitors with disabilities will find uneven sidewalks to be a challenge. Air

Hewanorra Intl (UVF) Castries, St Lucia

Hewanorra International Airport (UVF) is the main and larger among St. Lucia airport that is located 40 miles away from South Castries. The airport was initially a military airfield for the United States Army Air Forces, but now caters to civilian passengers from all over the world. A $175 million project includes upgradation in the airfield with large parking apron, a new tower for air traffic control room, a two-story terminal building over 337,000 sq.ft. of area, and a new road network system. The new terminal building is planned to be equipped with state of art facilities, shops, restaurants, and executive lounges. The new terminal is planned to be fully functional by the end of 2020. The new UVF airport offers international, domestic and regional flight service along with augmented cargo facility, and only limited availability for trade and commerce. Caribbean aviation service provider I.A.M has selected St Lucia Air and Seaports Authority for establishing the first FBO at Hewanorra International Airport. It will consist of a 7000 sq.ft. terminal completely dedicated for customs and immigration process, premium lounge space, meeting room, security room, and crew rest area. The aim is to provide a completely new and modern commercial terminal facility for staff and travelers at UVF airport.

Some of the international destinations covered from airlines from this airport includes New York, Miami, and London. The cargo facility is operated by Hewanorra Air Cargo Services and provide contractual services for Air Canada, Virgin Atlantic Airways, British Airways, West jet, and Delta Airlines.

Security When you travel through UVF airport, no gels, liquids, or aerosols are allowed except those that are packed in a transparent quart-sized bag in containers of 3.4 ounces or 100 ml or less for each liquid as recommended by the Transportation Security Administration (TSA). The sealed or closed bag must be placed for X-ray inspection separately from other carry-on baggage. Passengers are advised to be present for their security check at the UVF airport atleast 2 hours before their scheduled flight departure time.

Connecting Transportation Southern Taxi Association, the authorized taxi provider from the airport has a fleet of taxi to transport passengers from and to the UVF Airport. They operate all forms of taxi services such as regular taxi and limo services. Avis, Budget, Cool Breeze, and Sixt have their car rental booths at the airport premises.

Public buses (actually jitneys or minivans) are often crowded and noisy and do not run on a set schedule. The cost is usually less than US$1, and even the longest trip won't cost more than US$3. Rates are posted inside the buses. Pay onboard in cash with correct change. Remember that U.S. coins are not especially welcome on the island (bills are, however), and bus and taxi fares are easier to pay with local currency.

Buses run frequently in the Castries-Rodney Bay-Gros Islet area and between Castries and Vieux Fort. Many buses in Castries leave from the market area, but departure points are scattered around town. They run less frequently to Soufriere. Catch the bus on the south end of Soufriere, in the square in front of the Catholic church. There are a few designated bus stops on the island. If you need to catch a bus from anywhere other than its origin, simply stand by the side of the road and flag one down. The legal driving age in St. Lucia is 18 years, but to rent a car you must be at least 25 years old, have had a valid driver's license for at least two years, and a credit card with sufficient funds on it to cover the entire estimated cost of your usage. Drivers age 65 and older may be asked to provide a doctor's certificate of competence to drive.

All visitors are required to present an International Drivers License or obtain a local driving license before driving on the island. Licenses are available at the airport, most major car rental agencies, and the local police station. Travelers must provide a valid license issued by their home country and pay a fee.

Driving in St. Lucia is on the left. Speed limits should be strictly observed, particularly in urban areas where drivers should never exceed 30 mph. Seatbelt, child restraint and parking laws are also strongly enforced. It is illegal to use a cell phone while driving.

The coastal road and other primary roadways are in good condition, but many of the secondary streets are still unpaved or deeply rutted. Some still suffer damage from flooding and landslides caused by hurricanes. We recommend renting a vehicle with four-wheel drive or at least with enough power to climb hills easily.

Major rental companies have offices at St. Lucia's international airport as well as in Castries; some will deliver cars to hotels or have rental desks in hotels. Locally operated Cool Breeze Car Rental in Soufriere may have lower rates. Phone 459-7729. http://coolbreezecarrental.com.

Several cruise lines include St. Lucia on their itineraries. The main port is Castries, which has two docks, Pointe Seraphine and La Place Carenage. Yachts and smaller ships moor at the Rodney Bay Marina or Marigot Bay Marina.

Saint Lucia Air and Sea Ports Authority (SLASPA) oversees activity at the cruise-ship terminals and the airports. Scheduled dockings are listed on its website. http://www.slaspa.com.

Taxis are available but relatively expensive. Drivers belong to the National Taxi Union and charge rates regulated by the government's Road Transport Board. Drivers must carry a rate card and make it available to riders. Tariffs are set in U.S. dollars, but for short trips use EC dollars. License plates of official taxis are blue with white letters with TX as the prefix.

Taxis can also be hired for touring the island. The going rate is about US$35-$40 an hour per group during high season, and a bit less during low season. Be sure to reach agreement about the itinerary, duration, fare and type of currency before getting into the taxi. A tip of about 10% is standard.

Independent water taxis run between towns along the west coast, and several waterfront resorts run a water shuttle for guests. Look for boats along the dock at Soufriere, Castries, Rodney Bay and Anse Chastanet, or ask for information at hotel reception desks or tourist information kiosks at the airports and cruise ship terminals.

Prices vary, depending on the boat and the distance covered. You can often bargain for lower rates when fewer tourists are on the island during the summer months. Marina offices and businesses on the waterfront also can offer information about water taxis. A typical fare between Soufriere and Sugar Beach is US$22.

Motorbikes (mopeds) and road bicycles are not readily available: The steep and sometimes poor roads make them a dangerous way to travel. Mountain-biking tours may be arranged through several tour operators.

For More Information

Tourist Offices

St. Lucia: St. Lucia Tourist Board, Sureline Building, Vide Bouteille, P.O. Box 221, Castries, St. Lucia. Phone 758-458-7101. http://www.stlucia.org.

Canada: St. Lucia Tourist Board, 65 Overlea Blvd., Toronto, ON, M4H 1P1. Phone 416-362-4242. Toll-free 800-869-0377.

U.S.: St. Lucia Tourist Board, 800 Second Ave., Suite 910, New York, NY 10017. Phone 212-867-2950. Toll-free 800-456-3984.

U.K: St. Lucia Tourist Board, 1 Collingham Gardens, London, SW5 0HW. Phone 011-44-20-7341-7005.

St. Lucia Embassies

U.S.: Embassy of St. Lucia, 629 K St., N.W., Suite 1250, Washington, DC 20006. Phone 202-364-6792. https://www.embassyofstlucia.org.

Foreign Embassies Serving St. Lucia Canada: Canada is represented by its high commission in : Bishop's Court Hill, St. Michael, Bridgetown. Phone 246-629- 3550. http://www.canadainternational.gc.ca/barbados-barbade.

U.S.: The U.S. is represented by its embassy in Barbados: Wildey Business Park, Wildey, St. Michael, Barbados. Phone 246- 4310179. The consular section of the embassy may be contacted at 246-227-4399. https://bb.usembassy.gov.

U.K.: British High Commission, Francis Compton Building, Second Floor, Waterfront, Castries, St. Lucia. Phone 758-452-2484. https://www.gov.uk/government/world/organisations/british-high-commission-castries.

Additional Resources

Collected Poems 1948-1984 by Derek Walcott (Noonday Press). An anthology of the most famous poems by St. Lucia's Nobel Prize- winning author.

Sounding Ground by Vladimir Lucien (Peepal Tree Press). Lucien shows wisdom beyond his years. He is one of the most promising young poets from St. Lucia.

Birthright by Kendel Hippolyte (Peepal Tree Press). Less romantic than Walcott, this award-winning writer has written a number of plays.

Sighting and other poems of faith by John Robert Lee (Xlibris, USA and Mahanaim, St. Lucia). Designed as a coffee-table book, this volume of work by this regionally acclaimed poet includes his photographs of the island.

EVENTS

Calendar

St. Lucians love to celebrate, and any excuse will do.

Most unique is Nobel Laureate Week in January. It celebrates the achievements of Sir Arthur Lewis, who won the 1979 Nobel Prize in economics, and Derek Walcott who won the 1992 Nobel Prize in literature. Lewis gets short shrift, but there are plenty of plays, workshops and poetry readings by an excellent new crop of writers, and—health permitting—Walcott himself is present at major events. https://www.facebook.com/NobelLaureateWeekSaintLucia.

The Kalalu World Music Festival takes place in April in Castries, featuring musical artists from around the world. Phone 758-452- 8416.

The St. Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival draws international acts—and thousands of their fans—for two weeks in early May. Poetry, theater, art and fashion shows now round out the creative mix. https://www.stlucia.org/jazzfestival.

Another popular festival is the St. Lucia Carnival, held in July. Events leading up to the carnival last several weeks, but the main event is the parade of costumed bands that winds its way out of Castries on Carnival Monday and Tuesday. https://www.stlucia.org/summerfestival/saint-lucia-carnival.

August is Chocolate Heritage Month, with numerous events islandwide. See cacao grown, processed and made into myriad delights. https://www.stlucia.org/events/chocolate-heritage-month.

Creole Heritage Month, in October, has been introduced as part of a cultural rebirth of recovering and remembering the past. A series of activities helps stimulate this mass awareness of St. Lucia's heritage. Things culminate at the end of October with International Creole Day, or Jounen Kweyol, a worldwide celebration by all countries that speak the Creole language. For more information, contact the Folk Research Center in Castries at 758-452-2279. http://www.stluciafolk.org.

October also draws anglers to the St. Lucia International Bill Fishing Tournament. It's for heavy hitters only: Fish weighing less than 500 pounds are tagged and released. https://www.facebook.com/slugamefishingassociation.

The St. Lucia Yacht Club (phone 758-452-8350) serves as the finish line for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, the largest transoceanic sailing event in the world, which starts each November in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and ends 2,700 nautical mi/5,000 km later at the Rodney Bay Marina (758-458-7200). The Yacht Club throws huge parties to celebrate the end of the race, which draws more than 200 yachts from 25 nations. https://www.worldcruising.com/arc/arcitinerary.aspx.