C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2014 NO. 229 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore DAVID MORGAN

Cruising Today See story on page 12 OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2014 • NUMBER 229 Bocas del Toro What Bugs You… Sailing to history ...... 18 … about the cruising life? .....32 DEPARTMENTS CHRIS DOYLE TINA DREFFIN Info & Updates ...... 4 Meridian Passage ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 7 The Caribbean Sky ...... 37 Regatta News...... 9 Compass Fiction ...... 38 Product Postings ...... 29 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 30 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Island Poets ...... 30 What’s on My Mind ...... 40 Seaweed Cartoon ...... 30 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Book Review ...... 33 Classified Ads ...... 46 Dominica Trails Look Out For… ...... 36 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 Explore ashore ...... 20 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 CHRIS DOYLE Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com

Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Accounting...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Loss no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Finish trip ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Dog & Dolphins excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. or abandon ship? ...... 23, 26 Tame and wild engage ...... 34 ISSN 1605 - 1998

Cover Photo: Coastal Haiti abounds with and sailors. Will cruising yachts be far behind? Cruising Kiwi photographer David Morgan captured this colorful image

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.

‘One love for the Compass! It is the best in the region and I enjoy it from the first to the last page.’ — Readers’ Survey 2014 respondent

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info keelboat coursesareavailable.Weunderwentaweeklonginspectionandtraining All areavailableforhireandarangeofRoyalYachtingAssociationdinghy ghy sailing,keelboatkayakingandpaddleboardingforadultschildren. the haulandlaunchoftenders,RIBspowerboats.Ourwatersportsincludedin- also haveaconcreteslipwayfromthemainroadintowater(fourfeetdeep)for long-term dockageforboatsuptoseven-footdraft,atverycompetitiverates.We installed a180-footdockandhopetoextenditforthecomingseason.Weoffer turn, providetherevenueforustocontinuefreeschools’programme.Wehave Drive, EnglishHarbourwherewehopetocreateaviableenterprisewhichwill,in reason thatwerelocatedtothenewheadquartersofAcademyinDockyard Foundation, theMillReefCharityFundandBoltiniTrust. including SophieRacing,eSeaClear,PeteTownshend,andthePeterHarrison swimming lessonsformorethan700children. 2010. Inthattime,wehavetaughtover500childrentosailandsponsored animation/animMOSAIC_ant.html www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack-public/ islands uptoPuertoRico. region, withnetcontrollersfromGuyana,TobagoandotherEasternCaribbean Band) from0600-0800Atlantictime.It’sthelargest40-metrenetinCaribbean name: theywelcomealllicensedHamseverymorningat7.188Mhz(LowerSide Friendly 7.188Netonthe40-metreamateurradiobanddefinitelylivesuptotheir However, relyingsolelyoncharitabledonationsisnotsustainableanditwasforthis All ofthishasbeenachieved,todate,thanksthegenerosityoursponsors Elizabeth Jordanreports:Westartedourfreeschools’programmeinSeptember Antigua &BarbudaNationalSailingAcademyNews Meteo ’swonderfulradarweatherimageoftheLesserAntilleshasanewURL: Missing MartiniqueRadar? For moreinformationvisithttp://friendly7188net.net. As reportedbyKenGoodingsonthe‘CaribbeanNavigator’Facebookpage:The Welcome totheFriendlyNet [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding

NSA in TyrrelBay. had countedflagsfromatleast20differentnationsdisplayedonyachtsanchored comed thegathering,explainedCCEF’scharitableprojects,andreportedthathe choice oftheavailableprizes.Priortoraffledrawing,Harmfrom popular activityinrecentyears,withthewinneroffirstticketdrawnhavingtheir bution toCCEF.Additionally,arafflewasstaged.Thishasdevelopedintovery grills setupbyTantyLizzy’ssonEric.ParticipantswereeachaskedforanEC$5contri- Carriacou localsgatheredtosocialize,sharedishesoffood,andbarbecuemeaton restaurant fortheAnnualPre-RegattaPotluckBarbecue.Bothcruisersand erously matchedtheplayers’donatedamount. pants wereeachaskedforadonationCCEFandproprietorsDaniKategen- a MexicanTraindominoescompetitionattheSlipwayRestaurant.The13partici- Education Fund(CCEF)fundraisingeventsbeganTuesdayafternoon,July29th,with visit www.nationalsailingacademy.org. www.thelodgeantigua.com. English Harbourwithineasyreachofmarinas,shops,bars,restaurantsetcetera,visit ent isouraccommodation,soifyouarelookingforaffordableaccommodationin ing centreandallitsinstructorsareRYAcertified.Ourmajorincomestreamatpres- session withvisitingRYAinspectorsinJuly;theAcademyisnowanaccreditedtrain- The nexteveningmorethan70peoplegatheredatTantyLizzy’sSeasideFountain Gordon Evansreports:AtCarriacouRegatta2014,theChildren’s Success AgainforCarriacouChildren’sEducationFund For moreinformationontheNationalSailingAcademy Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage S/V Horta wel- OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

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m m o o c c . . w w o o n n 758 452 4094 a a i i c c 33 1 45 32 0254 u u l l t t s s . . w w w w w : w France: Drop Anchor and Escape Anchor Drop Heartfelt thanks go to the donors, both individuals and businesses, for their generos- and businesses, for go to the donors, both individuals Heartfelt thanks week. during Carriacou Regatta collected EC$11,000 This year’s fund-raising success. You, CCEF hopes for continued be CCEF’s 15th campaign. Next year will For more information visit www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.org. Good Help for Haiti Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. works in several vil- Mandy Thody reports: Good on Facebook, and at Good Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. can be found ity. The list has grown far too large for individual recognition, but CCEF and especial- recognition, but CCEF grown far too large for individual ity. The list has also go to appreciative. Hearty thanks of Carriacou are most ly the schoolchildren the year. regatta week and throughout who assisted CCEF during all the volunteers as well as donations through the year, amount the significant cash Adding to that CCEF’s WiFi service in Tyrrel Bay, brings by cruisers for using CCEF’s the donations and campaign to more than EC$21,000, during the year-long 2014 total collection to nearly EC$226,000! total during the past 14 years CCEF’s grand Donated items can be dropped off at Divers the donors, make it happen. Budget Marine in Grenada will continue to be a col- as you pass through Carriacou. the Slipway Restaurant for CCEF’s WiFi password. And lection point. See the staff at 2015 Annual Carriacou Regatta. mark your calendar for the with a primary school, adult education, artisan training, lages of Ile-à-Vache, Haiti, growing microcredit. Please scholarships for higher education, clinics, and a rapidly socially stable, and preserve support our work to make the island economically and in the Caribbean! one of the most amazing environments and communities on (340) 513-2022. www.goodsamaritanofhaiti.com, or telephone Mandy

CCEF

M/V The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s the other way around. The prevailing The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s breathtak- Saint Lucia’s it’s warm and soothing northeast trade winds provide ideal sailing conditions. Yet, ing scenery that attracts the finest yachts from around the world. Drop anchor near the majestic peaks of Petit and Gros Piton. Rodney Bay invites a night on the town. Or choose Marigot Bay for a chic excursion. Must-see dive spots abound, and there are plenty of hidden bays where you’ll create your own Caribbean mystique. Of course, no getaway would be complete without exploring the luxurious side of Saint Lucia through its restaurants, shopping, and resorts. Immerse yourself in a luxe yachting adventure in simply beautiful Saint Lucia. car ferry for delivering these items to Carriacou at no cost, and to Paul at car ferry for delivering these items to Carriacou at no Continued from previous page Continued from CCEF’s 2014 fundraising volunteers. Well done! A significant factor this year was the huge number of items donated by cruisers in A significant factor this year was the huge number of items CCEF’s fund-raising week concluded with the Annual Auction on the Friday after- the Annual Auction on the week concluded with CCEF’s fund-raising T-shirts, and more. While participation in the live auction seems to be declining, theT-shirts, and more. While participation in the live auction live auction shortfall.table sales have skyrocketed, more than offsetting the in Grenada for the collection Grenada. Special recognition goes to Budget Marine Captain Theo and the and packaging of the Grenada cruisers’ donations, to noon. This event is much more than a live auction of donated items. Tables were set auction of donated items. Tables is much more than a live noon. This event items at what- Ours disco to sell donated of Frankie Matheson’s After up on both floors table” of boat the popular “bargain be negotiated. Tables included ever price could goods table; a items; a household and all manner of miscellaneous parts, electronics, sandals; hats,and toys; clothing, shoes and table; art prints, games books and charts Amelia in Carriacou, Technical Marine Management, Budget’s distribution representative for storage. for the pickup and delivery of the goods to Arawak Divers — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Hospedales saidhisadvicecouldbesummarizedinonesentence:“Proceedwithan well astherisks,associatedwithmedicaltourism. Simon FraserUniversityinCanada,spokeontheethicalandlegalimplications,as Beyond Borders.RoryJohnston,aPhDstudentatthefacultyofhealthsciences Agency; andJosefWoodman,thechiefexecutiveofficerfounderofPatients Hospedales, theexecutivedirectorofTrinidad-basedCaribbeanPublicHealth of Jamaica’sfirstmedicalmarijuanacompany,RichardKildare;Dr.James CTO SecretaryGeneral,HughRiley. about marijuana,isgoingtobeoneofthepartsdebatethatwehave,”said attracting visitorstoourshores,andsomedicaltourism,includingthediscussion states andsubsequentincreasesinthenumbersofvisitorsthere. sharper focusinrecentmonthsfollowingitslegalizationforrecreationalusebytwoUS through 19th.TheCTOsaidthatthedebatesurroundingmarijuanatourismhastakena of theIndustryConferenceheldinUnitedStatesVirginIslandsfromSeptember17th — KVR Participating inapaneldiscussiononthenotionorrealityofmarijuanatourism,Dr. Presentations attheconferenceweremadebydeputychiefexecutiveofficer “The Caribbeanhasaninterestinthissubject;the Marijuana tourismwasakeytopicduringtheCaribbeanTourismOrganization’sState Marijuana TourismDiscussedatCTOConference www.kvrel.com www.fl kvr@fl [email protected] Mobile 2:1868363FLIR(3547) Mobile: 1868301FLIR(3547) Fax: 18686722872 Offi Direct: 18683954KVR(587) For moreinfo,pleasecontact: Continued frompreviouspage is theregionalagentfor: ce: 1868293FLIR(3547) KVR EnergyLimited Energy Limited ircaribbean.com ir.com/tt LUDECA FLIR

& ANDIES VAN EERTVELT VAN ANDIES flagship, the wreck isColumbus’famous strongly suggeststhatthis archaeological evidence water topographyand north coastofHaiti. have beenfoundlyingoffthe the vessel’sremainsmight wrecked intheCaribbean, ship, the Christopher Columbus’sflag- among youth”. functioning, andespeciallyso and socialoccupational of cannabissmokingonhealth the significantadverseeffects abundance ofcaution,given wreck asthe tor BarryClifford. said archaeologicalinvestiga- rate discoveriesmadeby been madepossiblebysepa- “All thegeographical,under- More thanfivecenturiesafter Found? Columbus’s SantaMaria Tentatively identifyingthe threats approachingintotaldarkness. sailing intheopensea,youwillbeable toseepotential time navigation.Whetheryouareanchored inportor thermal imagingcamerasareexcellent toolsfornight- police andlawenforcementboats.The HM-Series board alltypesofvessels:Commercial ships,yachts, the darkestofnights. The HM-Seriescanbeusedon mal imagingcameras. They produceacrispimage in The HM-Seriesareportableshock-resistantther- FLIR PORTABLE THERMAL IMAGINGCAMERAS

NEW Santa Maria Santa Maria Santa Maria FOR MARITIME APPLICATIONS The World’s , was ,” has L‘Alliance regatta,onpage11.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Lucia inDecembertheannualAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC). November 1st. uled tobegindirectflightsfromBostonHewanorraInternationalAirporton winter seasonfromboththeUSandCanadianmarkets.”carrierJetBlueissched- balance oftheyear,especiallyconsideringincreasingairliftinupcoming Lucia TouristBoardisprojectingasimilarifnotbetterperformancethroughoutthe which recordeda16-percentincreaseinarrivalsduringthesametimeperiod. recorded intheisland’shistory.Thesuccessalsoextendsintoyachtingsector, over arrivalsbyairandferryattheendofJulyhavesurpassedallnumberspreviously island inthefirstsevenmonthsofyear.Tourismofficialsannouncedthattotalstay- UNESCO said. now besubjectedtothoroughinvestigationbyanacclaimedteamofexperts,” site andinvestigatedothernearbyshipwrecks. its scrutiny,theUNESCOteamrecoveredsamplesofdiagnosticartifactstodate lected samplesaspartoftheinvestigation. Nieto Prieto,recentlyexaminedthewreckoffCap-HaïtieninnorthernHaitiandcol- former headoftheSpanishNationalMuseumonUnderwaterArchaeology,Xavier the remainsofshipwreckrequirefurtherinvestigation.AUNESCOteamledby has beenfound. and hasnarrowedthesearchfor eral years,investigatedmorethan400seabedanomaliesoffthenorthcoastofHaiti magnetometers, side-scansonarequipmentanddivers,Clifford’steamhas,oversev- also whatonewouldexpectfromavesselthesizeof to itsdemise.Thefootprintofthewreck,representedbypileship’sballast,is tent withwhatisknownhistoricallyaboutthewayvesseldriftedimmediatelyprior raphy associatedwiththelossof The siteisalsoamatchintermsofhistoricalknowledgeabouttheunderwatertopog- Christopher Columbus,writinginhisdiary,describedthewreckrelationtofort. ly identifythewreckasthatof data fromrecentreconnaissancedivesonthesitehaveallowedCliffordtotentative- re-examination ofunderwaterphotographsfromthatinitialsurvey,combinedwith graphed thewreck,buthadnot,atthatstage,realizeditspossibleidentity.Current be. Anexpeditionmountedbyhisteamin2003hadalreadyfoundandphoto- able tousedatainChristopherColumbus’diaryworkoutwherethewreckshould tively nearby.Armedwiththisinformationaboutthelocationoffort,Cliffordwas other archaeologistsin2003suggestingtheprobablelocationofColumbus’fortrela- In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! More than200yachtscarryinganestimated1,200peoplewillmakelandfallinSt. According toDirectorofTourismLouisLewis,“Withsuchanimpressivestart,theSt. The St.LuciaTouristBoardhasreportedsignificantgrowthinvisitorarrivalsforthe St. LuciaRecordsIncreaseinYachtVisitors “The evidencecollectedconcerningthelocation,natureandartifactcontentwill The UnitedNationsEducational,ScientificandCulturalOrganization(UNESCO)says The evidencesofarissubstantial,saysClifford.Ittherightlocationintermsofhow Sixth Sense™

NEW Caribbean Compass

customer partnerships. fi elds, therebycreatingandmaintaininglongterm ens ourreputationastheverybestin LUDECA’s commitmenttoourcustomersstrength- and vibration&conditionmonitoringsystemstoindustry. alignmentsystems,lasersheavetools, metric remain, theleadingsuppliersoflasershaftandgeo- support toourcustomers.We are,andseekto make itpossibletooffer theverybestserviceand Our yearsofexperienceandwealthknowledge Santa Maria wewelcomenewadvertiserLaCoursede Santa Maria Santa Maria STERN TUBELASER ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT, VIBRATION, BALANCING The MiamiHerald . . Thelocalcurrentsarealsoconsis- downtotheareawherewreck Santa Maria reportsthat,aspartof . Usingmarine OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 The The 6.0 is now reports that an , Cuba is gaining , Cuba is gaining —Continued on next page Directory of Vendors for Soundings Trade Only Today Soundings Trade Only Today Soundings Trade has recently been translated and is available on the web- The Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic Guide to the Dominican Republic .

with thousands of vendors searchable by business category and country.

The author, Frank Virgintino, explains that even after all his years of cruising the All of Free Cruising Guides’ books are currently being translated into Spanish. The newest edition of Stand by for the release of Free Cruising Guides’ free Latest Cruising Managing Director of Parts & Power Tom Gerker stated, “We were delighted with Managing Director of Parts & Power Tom Gerker stated, attendees at the event also Several Perkins-based raffle prizes were awarded, and Parts & Power are offering Even if you couldn’t attend, you can still enjoy this offer: 26. For more information on Parts & Power see ad on page Busy Summer Reported at Nauti Solutions, Grenada service shop, has hadDanny Gray reports: Nauti Solutions in Grenada, your one–stop a safe passage and fair To all boats in this year’s ARC and Caribbean 1500, have For more information on Nauti Solutions see ad in the Market Place section, pages For more information on Free Cruising Guides see ad on page 33. New Location for Paint & Stuff The well known St. Martin composites and paint shop, Boat Paint & Stuff, has Boat Paint & Stuff is also the exclusive Caribbean distributor for the Coppercoat Successful Perkins Open House at Parts & Power Successful Perkins Open House Islands-based Caribbean distributor for numerous Parts & Power, the British Virgin Marina consultant Richard Graves and Associates is planning a US-sanctioned Marina consultant Richard travel ban, Cuban state enterprises responsible for Anticipating the end of the at Varadero, 90 miles from the Florida Keys, is The expansion of Marina Gaviota US Marina Interests Eye Cuba US Marina Interests Reagan Haynes in As reported by BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS available as a free PDF at www.freecruisingguides.com. It is also available through Kindle and other popular e-book sellers. This 6th edition is entirely updated and includes an expanded discussion with additional charts of the Windward Passage as a “very sailable” alternative entrance into the Caribbean and gateway to Caribbean islands frequently bypassed along more traditional routes. Dominican Republic, there is always more to learn and enjoy about the experience. He says, “My hope is that this guide will encourage cruising sailors intent on explor- ing the Caribbean to include the Dominican Republic as one of their destinations.” Guide to the ABC Islands site for FREE. The next guide to be translated will be the three-volume set of the turnout and support for the event. Our staff worked very hard to prepare every- the turnout and support for the event. Our staff worked response from those thing, and we were very pleased to receive such a positive who attended.” received discount vouchers for Perkins based equipment. and November. Visit 20-percent off selected service spare parts during October for details. www.partsandpower.com/products_store_specials.php a number of cylinder heads,a good hurricane season, working on an engine rebuild, for a 76-foot cat, anchorplumbing problems, winches, jammers, a big sun awning service work, etcetera.plates, ladders, also lots going on in the welding shop, plus the road from Port Louis winds and when in Grenada look us up — we’re just across sheds and offer guardianage Marina in St. George’s Lagoon. We also have storage on our moorings in Prickly Bay if you plan to fly home. 42 through 45. moved to a new warehouse. The sole St. Martin/St. Maarten distributor for PPG/ Amron paints has now moved a 120-square-metre store on the French channel entering the lagoon, next to the French bridge. By December you’ll be able to dock your tender directly at the store/warehouse to buy your products. ten-year life span antifouling. Boat Paint & Stuff sells polyester and epoxy resins, mat, biaxial cloths, fillers, accessories, etcetera. Guaranteed best prices for quality prod- ucts! Quantities are customized to your needs, meaning no waste. Cruisers industrial and marine products and brands, hosted an open evening event on industrial and marine products in Port Purcell, Tortola. The event was held in conjunc- September 4th at their facility of Commerce and Hotel Association (BVICCHA), and tion with the BVI Chamber Sixty people attended. focused on their Perkins engine-based product range. official opening is planned for 2015, but vessels are using the marina now. official opening is planned attention as a potential trade partner for the United States marine industry as some the United States marine industry potential trade partner for attention as a the country. trade embargo with the US will lift its half-century speculate whether delegation recently had a small Marine Manufacturers Association The US National island who are interested in learning more about its of select members touring the industry potential. for February 18th through 22nd, 2015, directly after the industry tour of the country to help interested parties save on airfare. Miami International Boat Show begun an unprecedented push to prepare the island marine infrastructure have US boaters. Although there are only 15 marinas with nation for yacht tourism and add 23 more marinas with more than 5,000 slips, 789 slips, there are plans to Graves said. it facilities for large recreational vessels. When complete, intended to help augment boats. will accommodate about 1,200 The happy Parts & Power and BVICCHA team at the end of the event The happy Parts & Power and BVICCHA team at the end

OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 OYSTER, INGRID ABERY INGRID OYSTER, 4:00 — 38 catamaranandaJeannie54DSluxury crewedyacht. guest —allcomplimentary! Bequia (ifrequired),abottleofchampagne andsnorkelingequipmentforeach Charters hasaspecialoffer:Thefirstten bookings willeachreceiveaskipperto and rentersnearlyanywhereintheworld. provider. Boatrentalinsurancecanbepurchasedbycompanies,privateowners duration desiredandareunderwrittenbyagloballytrustedyachtcharterinsurance rental insuranceproduct.Policiescanbepurchasedbytheday,week,orany School-of-the-West-Indies/157728984269469. Indies’ Facebookpage.Checkitoutatwww.facebook.com/pages/Maritime- or [email protected]. residents andvisitorstoourbeautifulislandnationforyearscome. the largestdivegrouptoevervisitSt.Vincent&Grenadines. Camp overtwoconsecutiveyears,which,with60participants,todateisstill Dive MastersandfourPADIInstructors.IndigoWatersportsalsohostedKids’Sea resort’s localstaff,andcertify12VincentiandiveprofessionalsincludingeightPADI Month inMarch2013,provideEmergencyFirstResponseTrainingforover100ofthe Association ofDiveInstructors5StarResortstatus,winPADIEducationCenterthe years, whosecontributionsenabledthecompanytoattainitsProfessional members, bothcurrentandpast,fortheirincrediblesupportoverthepastfour new premises. Association office. of theDVDatCoco’sRestaurant,BequiaBookshoporTourism project onthewebsiteaswell. island ofBequia,herheroesandhumpbacks.Thereismoreinformationaboutthe website, thewindthatblows.com,torentorpurchaseacopyofthestoryabout pages 42to45. and helpyoupicktherightproduct. Opening hours:7:30 For [email protected]) orcall(473)439-1002. Horizon alsoannouncesnewadditionsto itsgrowingfleetinSt.Vincent:aLeopard To celebratetheopeningofitsnewcharter baseinSt.Vincent,HorizonYacht Horizon’s St.VincentBaseOpensOctober 1st For moreinformationvisithttps://getmyboat.com/boat-rental-insurance. GetMyBoat, apeer-to-peerandchartermarketplace,haslaunchedglobalboat Global BoatRentalInsurance Thais RoosenshasupdatedandwillmaintaintheMaritimeSchoolofWest Maritime SchoolofWestIndiesFacebookPage For moreinformationcontactKayWilsonat(784)493-9494 Indigo Divelooksforwardtoprovidingworld-classdivetraining,andexcursions The ownersofIndigoWatersportsLtdwouldliketoextendheartfeltthanksstaff Fans ofGrenada’sunderwatersculptureinstallationwillwanttoknowthatanew Underwater MuseumBookPublished If youhappentobesoluckythatwillgoingBequia,cangetacopy “The WindThatBlows”isnowavailableasaDVDanddownload.Visitthe Bequia WhalingDocumentaryNowAvailableOnline For moreinformationon Serge andStephanewillbepleasedtoassistyouinanywaytheycan,advise Continued frompreviouspage PM fromMondaytillFriday. AM tillnoonfromMondaythroughSaturdayand1:30 Boat Paint&Stuff the processofrelocatingdiveoperationto island ofSt.Vincent.IndigoWatersportsLtdisin flagship property,BuccamentBayResort,onthe relationship withHarlequinHotelandResorts’ Indigo WatersportsLtdendsitsfour-yearbusiness Jason deCairesTaylor. dazzling under-oceansculptureparksofartist Museum nature, andconservation, Chronicle Books.Aone-of-a-kindblendofart, book isnowout: Kay Wilsonreports:Itiswithdeepregretthat BuccamentBayResort Indigo WatersportsLeaves This bookisavailableatAmazon.com. seeadintheMarketPlacesection, re-creates an awe-inspiring dive into the re-createsanawe-inspiringdiveintothe The UnderwaterMuseum —Continued onpage45 The Underwater The Underwater PM till by by OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 August 16th —Continued on next page

in Nanjing, China, providing the youngsters with a wealth of experience in Nanjing, China, providing 29 Jan to 3 Feb 2015

our product in the Caribbean and as such it is vital that we take respon- our product in the Caribbean and as such it is vital that is The winner in the women’s kitesurfing competition was Noortje Derksen; Agnes was Noortje Derksen; the women’s kitesurfing competition The winner in Anthony Mijts, Joost Horward and committee, consisting of Eric The organizing time, join the seventh Aruba International Regatta for Next year, same spot, same or Facebook. For more information visit www.aruba-regatta.com at Youth Games in China CSA Members Represented is delighted that representatives of six memberThe Caribbean Sailing Association ON THE HORIZON… with CSA ‘Clean Regattas’ Group Partners a partnership with Sailors The Caribbean Sailing Association (CSA) has announced the boating com- Sailors for the Sea is a conservation organization that engages rating rule measur- The Annual CSA Conference brings together regatta organizers, says, “Over the past few Hilary Kotoun, Sailors for the Sea Social Impact Director, Best Practices and The Sailors for the Sea team will help interpret Clean Regattas is the perfect oppor- CSA President Peter Holmberg, is delighted: “The conference visit www.caribbean-sail- For more information about the CSA Annual Conference Puerto Rico’s Discover the Caribbean Series oldest regatta in Puerto Rico The 25th edition of the Discover the Caribbean — the For more information beat Lucas van Hest and Sophie Dings. beat Lucas van retained his Pechi Pecachek in second. In the men’s competition, Verduijn came Miroslav. Arnold Lieuw and Frank Regatta title and beat Aruba International was the main van der Linde. Tom Croes 15 was won by Melvin Windsurfing Under The rising Kaffener and Malik Hoveling. in Under 17, followed by Sam trophy winner 20 competi- battled in the Under and Nick van den Eerenbeemt stars Ethan Westra third place. and Willem ten Ham took tion, Ethan won sailors recognize More and more great feedback from participants. Hagedoorn, got Regatta: it’s all about sailing. the goal of the Aruba International on the Aruban waters. even more action and fun Summer Youth Olympic Games, held countries sailed at the Second that will be invaluable to them in all of their future endeavours, not just in sports. CSAthat will be invaluable to them at the Youth Olympic Games were Rhone Kirbymember yacht club representatives van den Eerenbeemt (Aruba), Samuel Morrell (British Virgin(Antigua & Barbuda), Mack (Dominican Republic), Lucas Miranda MartinezIslands), Celeste Lugtmeijer Cathelier and Scott McKenzie (US Virgin Islands). The CSA con- (Puerto Rico), and Paige Clarke “You have made the Caribbean region and allgratulates these talented athletes: member countries very proud.” from October 24th through for the Sea for the Annual CSA Conference taking place 26th in Antigua. the Sea is working with the munity. Equal parts education and outreach, Sailors for Regattas program through- Caribbean Sailing Association to implement the Clean out the region. from around the ers, yacht club representatives and other sailing specialists to work with the Caribbean, offering Sailors for the Sea the perfect opportunity event. region on implementing sustainable practices in each organizers in the years, Sailors for the Sea has worked with many regatta events as Clean Caribbean to operate and certify environmentally friendly the CSA to further these Regattas. Based on this work, we have joined forces with running Clean Regattas, and efforts, supply regattas with items that will aid them in believe the conference will support local NGOs and regattas working together. We move the needle forward on be an ideal place to bring these efforts together and improving ocean health.” based on their prior give advice on implementing these environmental standards will help organizers work experiences at other regattas around the world. The session to their attention available through guidelines, identify tools to help them, and bring funding to assist in achieving clean regatta status. and the forum can tunity to bring together the key players in Caribbean regattas organizers operate. The envi- be used as an opportunity to challenge the way that ronment natural resource, the ocean. sibility for our events and their impact on our greatest us further towards sus- We welcome the support from Sailors for the Sea in moving benefits throughout tainability and look forward to sharing the resulting year-round the region.” ing.com. To learn more about Sailors for the Sea visit www.sailorsforthesea.org. by Ponce Yacht & — will be held October 31st through November 2nd, hosted Puerto Rico and the Fishing Club. The PY&FC and its sponsors offer sailors from activities, this year fea- Caribbean three days of sailing competition and shoreside be competing. turing three sailing areas in which different classes will visit www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com. through 28th www.grenadasailingweek.com www.grenadasailingweek.com JOOST HORWARD FOR ARUBA INTERNATIONAL REGATTA with captain

Sunbelt Realty

nrnada! i Ge i with captain Winfried Merkies Venus Callipyge

Melody i ip ip i [email protected] with captain Remco van Dortmondt won Remco van Dortmondt won with captain

skippered by Javier Galdo, was dismasted, but skippered by Javier Galdo, was dismasted, but Spceu t Chipi, , a one-off sailed by regatta founders Eric and Anita Mijts and , a one-off sailed by regatta founders Eric and Anita Mijts Sunbelt Realty Dash Sunbelt Realty with captain Werner Haan was second and the Aruban team of with captain Werner Haan was second and the Aruban Eva Luna a Moore 24 with captain Maurice Hagedoorn, finished third. In the a Moore 24 with captain Maurice Hagedoorn, finished Nawati

a J/35 from Curaçao, beat the competition in the Racing Class; the Beneteau a J/35 from Curaçao, beat the competition in the Racing First place in the Beach Cat Class went to father-and-son duo Rob and Sil Grijpma, First place in the Beach Cat Class went to father-and-son The sailing conditions were rough, with winds that started at around 20 knots on at around 20 knots on The sailing conditions were rough, with winds that started ‘Unforgettable’ Aruba International Regatta ‘Unforgettable’ Veteran contender tactical racing where par- The upwind–downwind courses of six miles ensured fast

Despite strong winds that required effort — not only to win the races but also to Despite strong winds that required to 124 participants, ranging from young Optimist sailors, The overall event attracted REGATTA NEWS REGATTA came in second and third respectively. Sil’s mother) and Henk who outwitted the competition of Frances Grijpma (yep, Frank van Kan. In the Sunfish Steenbergen. Third place was for Patrick Melchiors and the class ahead of Robbie Class, Richard van der Wal, the Aruban champion, won II Class, Alexander van Ferron from St. Maarten and Randy Brown. In the Optimist der Velde finished ahead of Vivian Hankart and Tijn Hartmans. The Optimist I Class was won by Jort Hartmans; Luna Upegui and Enric Braamskamp were second and third respectively. The youngest Optimist sailing class was won by Feike Benega, who Hans van der Straaten and the Jeanneau 34 their crew, took first place and finished second overall. The strongest competition in their crew, took first place and finished second overall. Open Class came from Curaçao: the Defender 29 Ocean 505, Open Class, the regatta, but not to Aruba. It is a traditional pastime in which the skippers trim the regatta, but not to Aruba. It is a traditional pastime add color and tradition to the their 30-, 35- and 40-inch boats minutely for races that senior participants in the regatta. Fourteen micro-boat captains, some of the more regatta, participated with several boats each. up to 38 knots on the Sunday the Saturday morning, building to 28 knots with gusts afternoon. One yacht, the nobody was harmed and thanks to the good seamanship of race director of race director nobody was harmed and thanks to the good seamanship soon towed back to the Anthony Hagedoorn and Captain Galdo the boat was lead boat of the Beach Cat regatta beach. Owing to a navigation mishap in the Four boats damaged Class, the full class overshot a buoy and hit the shallows. in the races. their , and another beach cat lost its rudder later and deal with wind ticipants had to dodge currents and changing wave patterns, Cup winner shifts and variable wind speeds. Overall Budget Marine Dash, Oceanis 46 the Budget Marine Cup in the sixth edition of the Aruba International Regatta. of the Aruba International Cup in the sixth edition the Budget Marine August 16th during the weekend of competed for the award Twenty-eight teams of Oranjestad, Aruba. Beach and in the harbour and 17th at Surfside the most successful edition of this regatta ever. keep safe — participants enjoyed in combination with great ambiance on shore The challenging sailing conditions exposition made sure that hundreds of sailing enthusi- and a beautiful self-built-boat from Curaçao called it, “A weekend I’ll never forget”. asts had, as one participant and yachts, plus kitesurfers, windsurfers and micro- those on Sunfish, beach cats to sails on the water. The micro-boat competition is new boats, resulting in over 100 OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 that allparticipantswillrememberwithpleasureandwanttoreturnthefol- aguru andFKG,theaimoforganizersistocreateacompetitiveyetfunregatta years ago,hopesitwillbethebestoneyet. who tookovertherunningofCoursedeL’AlliancefromMarinaFortLouistwo gamate, cancel,divide,subdivideorrearrangeclassesatitssolediscretion. designs, Melges24andFigaro2.TheOrganizingAuthorityreservestherighttoamal- with aMulti-2014rating.ScoringwillbeextractedforClass8andSurpriseasone- ing monohulls(RacingClass)withaCSArating,andcruisingmultihulls(Multi fleet of50boatsisnotuncommon. day eventthatattractskeensailorsfromAntigua,Martiniqueandfartherafield.A de SacMarinandBaieGosier,Guadeloupe.Thisisahighlycompetitivethree- visit [email protected]. Games occuronlyeveryfouryears.TheCDCwillbeheldnextyear. to 30th,atwhichanumberofCaribbeancountrieswillbeparticipating.TheCAC flict withtheCentralAmerican&CaribbeanGames(CACGames),November15th Championships 2014(CDC),scheduledforNovember14thto16th.Thedatescon- — With sponsorsthatincludeIGY,MarinaFortLouis,St.MartinYachtCharters,regatt- The CoursedeL’Allianceisasmall,butwell-lovedregattathattakesplaceeach Fun Multi-IslandCoursedeL’Alliance For moreinformationvisitwww.triskellcup.com. There willbeclassesforcruisingmonohulls(CoastalClass)withanOsirisrating,rac- The TriskellCupRegatta2014willrunfromNovember8ththrough10thatPetitCul Guadeloupe’s TriskellCup2014 For moreinformation The CaribbeanSailingAssociationhashadtocanceltheDinghy Caribbean DinghyChampionships2014Cancelled Continued frompreviouspage Maarten YachtClub, 30th, andtheSint through November November 28th place from 11th edition,taking of event! It’s simplythattype again, andagain. to doitagain,and regatta you’llwant participated inthis that onceyouhave and St.Martin. St. Barths,Anguilla tries ofSt.Maarten, neighboring coun- year unitingthe This yearwillbeits Local sailorssay andofcourse,St.Lucia,havealreadyflaggeduptheirinterest. 29th and30th,teamsfromMartinique,Barbados,Grenada,St.Maarten, encouraging earlyapplications,whichmeritaten-percentdiscountofftheentryfee. from Barbadosareexpectedtoparticipate.Overthenextweeks,organizerswillbe Class boats,uniquetotheFrenchislandandsimilarJ/24.UpsixJ/24crews base ofparticipantsinMartinique,whichisexpectedtosendupeightSurprise key sponsor. 28th through30th.Forthethirdyearrunning,IGYRodneyBayMarinawillbea ing ofthepopulareventonCSAcalendar.Thisyear’sdatesareNovember roster ofcompetitivesailingteamssignupfortheSt.LuciaYachtClub’sthirdhost- contact [email protected]. of fun! (of course)aboutsailing,andlastbutcertainlynotleastitishavingfun.Alot es andthesimilaritiesbetweenSt.Martin,Barths,AnguillaMaarten,itis (Well, fairlyrelaxed,dependingonwhichboatyouareon.) experience thefamousAnguillahospitality:morefunandundoubtedlyrevelry. Anguilla. Hereagaintheycometogetherforthedailyprizegivingeventandgetto revelry andgreatatmospherethatisSt.Barths. day areprofessionallyhandledineveryway. Paul Millerofregattaguru,makessurethatthestarts,finishesandcourseforeach gather togetherinSimpsonBayforthestart.Theraceofficerandchieforganizer, environment. OnFridaymorning,November28th,theracebeginsasallcompetitors in FrenchSt.Martin,whichbringstogethertheparticipantsarelaxedandsocial crew forthecomingseason. gives participantstheopportunitytoblowcobwebsawayandpreparetheir lowing year!ItalsohelpsmarkthestartofraceseasoninCaribbeanand and Bequia,wheretheywonthe2013EasterRegatta. team, agesrangingfrom15to28,wasablecompeteinMartinique,Barbados financial supportoftheluxuryresort,alongwithIGYRodneyBayMarina,J/24 sorship. AndreisaformerJ/24sailor,and took thehelmandapproachedViceroySugarBeachGMAndreBoersmaforspon- Blonde Attitude Stephanie Devaux-Lovell,whonicknamedthe24-footbrightorangekeelboat phy forthetwopreviousyears,firstbyafemaleteamskipperedOlympichopeful the localJ/24ownedbyCharlesDevaux,hasbeencrewedtoMangoBowltro- Five classeswillparticipateinracesoffReduitBeachRodneyBayonNovember The firsttwoyearsofSt.Lucia’sinternationalsailingeventhaveproducedastrong Dee Lundy-Charlesreports:TheMangoBowlRegatta2014isgatheringwayasa St. Lucia’sMangoBowlSetforNovember For moreinformationseeadonpage11. If youwouldliketotakepartinthistrulyCaribbeanevent This eventisnotallabouttheprizes.Theregattafriendship,differenc- The finalprizegivingisheldattheSt.MaartenYachtClubonSundayafternoon. Sunday, DayThree,isthelastdayandhereseesarelaxedsailbacktoSt.Maarten. Saturday seesDayTwooftheregattaandsailorswillthistimeheadforidyllic Friday eveninginSt.Barthsisalwaysagreatdealoffunwiththedailyprizegiving, It startswitharegistration‘event’,thedaybeforeregatta,atMarinaFortLouis . Lastyearamalecrewskipperedby24-year-oldFredricSweeney Sugar BeachAttitude —Continued onnextpage wasborn.Withthe Attitude , OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 (RP78) took home (RP78) took home Idea and Monster Project was 18 seconds short of a new record. Records in vari- short of a new record. Records was 18 seconds Balearia The signature event, the 60-nautical-mile Round Barbados Race, takes place on Round Barbados Race, takes event, the 60-nautical-mile The signature Complimentary berthing for competing yachts is available in the historic Inner Basin of is available in the historic berthing for competing yachts Complimentary of offshore racing, the 300-nautical-mile Ocean For those who love the thrill you to the Barbados Cruising Club in January 2015 We look forward to welcoming follow us For more information visit www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com, See ad on page 10. South Grenada Regatta Discontinued of the South Grenada Regatta has announced the per- The Organizing Committee Grenada Regatta was held along the south coast of Launched in 2009, the South racing in Grenada over the Although happy to have supported international yacht all of their race partici- The South Grenada Regatta Committee wishes to thank For more information, contact (473) 444-2400. Picturesque Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon will again provide an ideal Picturesque Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon will again provide an ideal Second and final host venue will be party centre Prickly Bay Marina, also a full ser- For more information see ad on page 9. Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week 2015 at our host marina venues Ruth Lund reports: Book your place on the start line and Authority, Mount Gay Rum, With loyal sponsors Island Water World, Grenada Tourism wet and dry committees A great team of officials is already committed and the J/24 Class, and local handicap classes for monohulls and non-CSA-rated boats. monohulls and non-CSA-rated local handicap classes for J/24 Class, and Winning one goal: to break records. put simply, one day, one race, January 21st; skipper’s weight Record will win their an existing Round Barbados yachts that break Extra Old. In 2014, both in Mount Gay the big prize, while the big prize, that can win. just the large race boats set based on LOA — it’s not ous classes are this January will be racing again Charles Hunte’s windsurfer, Our smallest “craft”, overseas. some opposition from and would welcome The Radisson Aquatica Resort, located adjacent to thethe Careenage, Bridgetown. Club, will offer discounted rates to competitors andhost club, the Barbados Cruising their families. the final race in our series and leaves you perfectly posi- Passage Race to Antigua is of the Caribbean racing circuit. tioned to take part in the rest cap from the home of Mount Gay Rum. where you’ll earn your red Round Barbados Race) on Facebook (Mount Gay Rum or e-mail [email protected]. their annual sailing regatta. manent discontinuation of March each year. In addition to competitive fleet and Grenada in February and/or wide range of water and shore activities, including live match racing, it featured a announcement to cancel the regatta has come as a musical performances. The in March of this year, was one surprise, especially since the event’s sixth edition, held of the most successful to date. and Dieter Burkhalter, who years, South Grenada Regatta founders Jana Caniga Hotel, now plan to concen- also own Grenada’s Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique of the music industry in trate on one of their other passions: the development worked with Grenada Grenada. Dieter, an accomplished musician, has for years Bleu as well as their signa- musicians, organizing live music performances at Le Phare also become involved in the ture “floating” dinghy concerts. Jana and Dieter have to promote Grenadian musi- development of a new music event that has potential was recently held at Le cians as well as tourism on the island. ‘Live…On The Beach’ Best Original Song. It was the Phare Bleu where five Grenadian bands competed for newly formed non-profit first event of its kind in Grenada, and the initiative of a and Jana), to encourage organization, Music & Beyond (spearheaded by Dieter to a new market of listeners. local bands to write original songs and gain exposure dedication and com- pants, sponsors, supporters and volunteers for their steadfast mitment over the years. arrival venue with its excellent facilities and services. In January, St. George’s will arrival venue with its excellent facilities and services. In January, St. George’s will be busy with the RORC Transatlantic Rally yachts and Grenada Billfish Tournament boats, so GSW participants are encouraged to confirm their dock space ASAP by contacting [email protected] or (473) 435-7431 to make their booking. vice marina with dock space and moorings. A water taxi will be available to trans- port crews from boat to shore. Early booking is advised by contacting Davide@prick- lybaymarina.com or (473) 439-5265. for Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week 2015! Services stepping up with Sea Hawk Premium Yacht Finishes and Spice Island Marine World Grenada Sailing their support, the January 29th to February 3rd Island Water Week (GSW) promises to be an event not to be missed. in the planning of the are taking the views of previous participants into account is easy — register online via 2015 event. Making sure of your place on the start line the next step is to make sure our website www.grenadasailingweek.com. After that, of your place at our two host venues.

PETER MARSHALL Cuba and Spirit of Adventure VO70), Monster Project ( (TP52). Charter places are also available with Ondeck (TP52). Charter places are also available with Ondeck Balearia (VO60s), and Continued from previous page Continued from The event comprises three days of coastal course racing along the south and west The event comprises three days of coastal course racing group or individual charter Provisional entries include a great range of yachts with Coastal course racing includes CSA-rated Racing and Cruising Classes, a one-designCoastal course racing includes CSA-rated Racing and Cruising Launch 2015 with Round Barbados Series! Launch 2015 with Round Barbados no better place to start the Caribbean racing year Alene Krimholtz reports: There’s This year, the Mango Bowl organizing team is again led by SLYC Secretary Anne is again led by SLYC Secretary Mango Bowl organizing team This year, the visit www.stluciayachtclub.com For more information coasts of Barbados, the 79th anniversary Mount Gay Round Barbados Race and the coasts of Barbados, the 79th anniversary Mount Gay Round can be entered indepen- 300-mile Ocean Passage Race to Antigua. All elements the Barbados Tourism dently of each other, and, with a little help from key sponsors all sailors and their Authority and Mount Gay Rum in organizing a social programme families will enjoy, there’s something for everyone. packages available, including Libre Sailing of St. Lucia. Antigua, Stormforce Coaching from the UK and Rum Line than in Barbados, the home of Mount Gay Rum, for the 2015 Mount Gay Round than in Barbados, the home 16th through 24th, 2015. Barbados Race Series, January Purvis, who has travelled to other Eastern Caribbean regattas over the past two Caribbean regattas over the travelled to other Eastern Purvis, who has of Mango operate. The logistics how the established competitions years to observe and more additional on-the-water judges see improvements including Bowl 2014 will two years were that the lessons of the first marking. Anne is confident secure course up early. repeat participants are signing is pleased that so many well learnt, and or e-mail [email protected]. — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 boats comeintofindtheessentialsoflife,rangingfromclothesmedicines.The 73°46.77W mouthofharbor).Pestelisasupplytownand,fewtimesperweek, their needs. the lifeofsimplefishermenandtheirfamilieswhorelyoncatchdaytofill depth betweenGrandCayemiteandLittleisabouteighttoninefeet. bigger thanthesettlementatBombardopolisbutnolesshospitable.Thecontrolling anchorage isinfrontofthetownPointeSable(18°36.15N,73°47.82W).Itsomewhat island islocatedatthenorthsideofsouthpeninsula,towardswestend.The one willaskyouto. the prevailingwinds.Youcannotclearatthisfishingsettlement,butthenagainno Anchoring isintenfeetofwaterorlessasmallcovethatwellprotectedfrom a charmingandsafecommunitywheretheresidentswillbehappytoreceiveyou. ment atthesouthwestcornerofnorthpeninsula(19°39.13N,73°25.26W).Itis my boatthereunattended. tected againststrongnorthers.Givenitsdistancefromthetown,Iwouldnotleave of thesettlementatheadharborisa“bulletproof”anchorage,wellpro- its condition.Aboutamilenorthofthetownissmallfishingsettlementand of anchorrode.Thereisamooringthatcanbepickedup,butIcannotvouchasto the waterdepthinfrontoftownisover20feet,whichtranslatestoagreatdeal town anchorageisaleeshoreifthewindoutofnorthornortheast.Inaddition, desire. Thesettingispositivelybreathtaking.Ifthereashortcoming,itthatthe is atownsetinreallybeautifulharbor.YoucanclearatCapMoleifyouso Mole St.Nicolas(19°48.45N,73°25.02Wentrancetoharbor).CapNicholas of Haitimakesgoodsense. If youareheadedtotheCaribbeanviaWindwardPassage,acruisethroughparts the CaribbeanSeaforthosecomingfromFloridaorEastCoastofNorthAmerica. are avoided. an exceptionalCaribbeancruisingground,providedthatareasofdensepopulation by Part 3: Frank CRUISING HAITITODAY Virgintino Less thanfivenauticalmilesfarthersouthisthesmalltownofPestel(18°32.31N, The backdroptothiseasyanchorageistrulybeautiful.Youwillseeandexperience From Bombardopolis,itis65nauticalmilesduesouthtoGrandeCayemiteisland.The Twelve milessouthofCapMoleandabitwestisBombardopolis,fishingsettle- Coming fromthenorth,usuallyBahamas,firstpossiblestopwouldbeCap Anchorages The WindwardPassageisundoubtedlytheeasiest,quickestandsafestwayinto I havecruisedHaitifortwodecades.Inallofthattime,foundtobe Cruising ThroughHaiti,ATripBackinTime all otheraspects. feet ofwater.Theanchorageisnotasprotectedthelagoon,butmuchnicerin at 55feet.Iliketoanchorthenorthwestcornerofentryharborin20 anchorage isinthelagoonatrearofharborbutthereanoverheadwire and verycolorful,similartoMadameBernardmarketonIle-à-Vache.The local populacefrommilesaroundcomestopurchasewhattheyneed.Itisnoisy for anorthboundvoyage On themaponpage13,somesuggestedroutingstopsarenumbered sailors intheWestAfricantradition’.Topphoto:Theauthor’syachtatPortMorgan. ‘Haitian fishingboatsarelargelypoweredbysailandthefishermenexcellent

DESTINATIONS —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 —Continued on next page Continued from previous page Continued from From Grand Cayemite and/or Pestel you will sail west and make a possible stop at will sail west and make a possible and/or Pestel you From Grand Cayemite of the north at the southwest end to Ile-à-Vache, located From Anse d’Hainault safe place to visit and boats have been calling there Ile-à-Vache is a wonderful and Ile-à-Vache is the mainland town of Les Cayes. There Just a few miles across from more of Haiti, 65 nautical miles east of Ile-à-Vache For those that want to explore west along the south coast of Hispaniola, the trip out- For those that are cruising Clearance procedures the north side of the north Clearance procedures in Haiti are not uniform. On Anse d’Hainault, Les You can clear in for Immigration at Cap Mole St. Nicholas, safety arm that checks on There is also an agency in Haiti called Semana. It is the Anse d’Hainault, a town of 30,000 people at the very west end of the southern pen- at the very west end of the a town of 30,000 people Anse d’Hainault, the boat should winds are concerned, but safe anchorage as far as the insula. It is a place to stop of this size. It is a very good in front of a town not be left unattended wind from the east is strong. rest, particularly so if the and anchor and The route from about 65 nautical miles. will cover a distance of peninsula, you Pointe-à-Gravois, the south peninsula to extreme southwest end of Tiberon at the hard. You challenging if the wind is blowing of Ile-à-Vache, can be which is just west d’Hainault and “turn the corner” en route to Ile-à-Vache should not depart from Anse you or less, conditions normally found after sundown. If unless the wind is ten knots for Haitian fishing boats, all of which are unlit. do sail at night, keep a watch the At Ile-à-Vache you enter from the west side and at since the time of Colombus. Cai enter the bay and anchor in front of the town of northwest corner of the island, a things have changed at the island and it is no longer Coq. Over the years, many They now have streetlights, a few of the local establish- sleepy little fishing village. many people now have cell phones. ments have generators, and Cayes, but you can anchor for the day (leave someone is no good anchorage at Les clear in or out or want to reprovision. Or, if you only want on the boat) if you want to Morgan Hotel to do it for you for a small fee. The hotel to clear, you can get the Port at Cai Coq. is located right in the anchorage of Jacmel. It was a very deluxe resort town at the height is the old Victorian town of pier place to visit. Immigration is located right on the its grandeur and still is a great This anchorage is untenable if the wind has a southern that you will anchor close to. component in it. However, the route north to lined in this article would be undertaken in reverse. is blowing down from the Bombardopolis should not be attempted if a strong norther could make its way to Grand States. When the tradewinds reinstate, a cruising boat Bombardopolis. Cayemite Island and then north-northwest to make US$350 to clear in with all the peninsula at Cap Haitien, a cruiser was asked to pay the big cities such as Cap agencies waiting in line to get “their share.” Away from a case of visiting the Haitien and Port-au-Prince, clearing in and out is normally are accustomed to dealing Immigration officer. Haitian officials in the larger cities their livelihood by being cre- with large commercial vessels and many of them make ative with the fee schedule. US$10, which gets you a Cayes and Jacmel. The fee to Immigration is normally the really big cities, you will stamp in your passport. Unless you clear in at one of not receive any other paperwork. If you come across a the safety of boats, such as ferries, that take passengers. Semana officer, he will probably ask you for a small tip. — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 distributed 43 used sails. distributed 43usedsails. through a“cleanwake”jointproject,collectedand Guides sheets fortheirsailinventory.Lastyear, tradition. Manysailusingplasticbagsandoldbed- the fishermenareexcellentsailorsinWestAfrican otherwise havetopaycashfor. supplies: floats,hooks,anythingthattheywould and PointeSabletheycanusedonationsoffishing visit. AtfishingsettlementssuchasBombardopolis are allmuchappreciated. powdered milk,medicinesofalltypesandsoforth needs. Bookstowriteinforherschool,Pampers, all faithsvisitherandgivemanythingsthatshe she hasmadeanenormousimpact.Manypeopleof under-100-pound, less-than-five-foot-tallframe, has beenontheislandover30years.Evenwithher Sister Flora.SheisaCanadianCatholicnunwho next villagetotheeast,isorphanagerunby of schoolsupplies.Also,atMadameBernard,the there isalargepublicschoolthatcanusedonations They knowbestwhoneedswhat.AtIle-à-Vache, churches andschools,ofwhichtherearemany. of charity,itisbesttodothroughtheorphanages, US. Manyofthemissionarieseatthereaswell. restaurant thatservesfullmid-daymealsfor50cents hungry. AtIle-à-Vachethereisagovernment-run you aroundtheislandforafee.However,theyarenot basic work,thatisfine,orperhapshavethemguide and tellyoutheyarehungry.Ifwanttogivethem boys willcomeoutintheirdugoutcanoes( short offoodorbasicclothing.AtIle-à-Vacheyoung purchase whattheyneed.ButmostHaitiansarenot as theyhavetoselltheirfishorcropsraisecash charge US$20perpassportstampandwillgiveyouareceiptuponrequest. department fromLesCayeswillsendaboatoverwithImmigrationofficers.They are agreatnumberofboatsanchoredatIle-à-Vache,onoccasion,theImmigration did notgettheplayonwordsandsimplywaitedformetopayfivedollars.Ifthere fund.” Itoldhimwhenmetthat“Ithoughthewasreallycleaningup”but and complained,hedisappearedhasnotbeenseensince. made arealnuisanceofhimself.AfterIplacedcalltotheDepartmentTourism which hechargedUS$2.50pervesselton.Hedidprettywellforafewweeksand 2013, decidedhewasgoingtoassesseachboat,requiringa“safetycertificate”for — Haitian fishing boats are largely powered by sail and Haitian fishingboatsarelargelypoweredbysailand The sameistruefortheothervillagesthatyouwill All throughHaitiifyouaregoingtogivesometype Haitians areoftenshortofcashtobuyessentials, Charity The mayorofIle-à-VacheiscurrentlychargingcruisersUS$5fora“beachcleanup One suchofficer,seeingsomanyboatsanchoredatCaiCoqonIle-à-Vachein Continued frompreviouspage and the Seven Seas Cruising Association, andtheSevenSeasCruisingAssociation, (575) 4363601-4358009COLOMBIA Free Cruising Free Cruising bois fouille ) the catchofdaytofilltheirneeds’ ‘You willseeandexperiencethelifeofsimplefishermentheirfamilieswhorelyon hounga soumwen years ago. good workingorderorbringenoughjerryjugstotideyouover. work ifyouhavetheparts. facilities, althoughthelargertownsdohaverepairmenthatcanhelpyouwith Frank Virgintinoistheauthorof I havecruisedHaitifortwodecadesandsaywithouthesitation,“ Go backintime.CruiseHaitiandgetasenseofwhattheCaribbeanwaslike50 Fresh waterisinshortsupplyeverywhere,sobesureyourfreshmaker To cruiseHaitiyoumustbefairlyself-sufficientastherearenomarinasorrepair A finalword !” (Haitihascastaspellonme.) Free CruisingGuides , http://freecruisinguides.com. Ayiti metemet OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 !#/# —Continued on next page ) 45 4444 ***7 )  73   6 )  73  , is super slow, but it gets us there. We traveled at night and made , is super slow, but it gets us there. We traveled at night Ultra 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q<  4 Q=' 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q< We had a long but great sail — well, a motorsail for us some of the way. Our big We had a long but great sail — well, a motorsail for We had made up several small snack packages of cookies, crackers and lollipops

always in mind, still in the back of our minds we kept hearing the voices of our always in mind, still in the back of our minds we kept to Haiti?” Our answer was friends who had asked us, “Why in the heck are you going left Texas and experienced that if we had that thought process we would have never all of our amazing sailing adventures! trimaran, and potential boarding. sure we were well offshore to avoid fish float entanglement began to see numerous fish At daybreak, the magnificent sunrise was a true gift. We fishermen use clear Coke and trap markers dotting the water. The problem is, the to see. JoAnne was on the water bottles, or green Sprite bottles, which are not easy to dodge the fish traps right bow as the spotter giving directions to Bill on the wheel see dugout canoes with men and left. Also, in the four- to six-foot swells we began to them had their dugouts rigged paddling them and towing their fishing lines. Some of grain sacks stitched togeth- with a series of black trash bags, weathered black tarps, sea, five to ten miles in a tiny er for sails. Remember, these men are really far out to the water. None of these boats little boat that you can barely see above the surface of for a paddle. Before we knew have motors, and have only the of a palm frond it, we were upon at least 40 of these boats. to give out while in this area. We began collecting the Ziploc bags and tossing them to the fishermen. DESTINATIONS At Ile-à-Vache — Cow Island: ‘We decided to take a hike through the little village and then up and over the mountain, At Ile-à-Vache — Cow Island: ‘We decided to take a hike through the pastures and the jungle…’ 32-foot with only a sail and compass to 32-foot sailboat with only a sail and compass to

green flash at sun- were moored next to

triple

our overnight sail to Haiti we our overnight sail to Haiti saw a set. It was the first in a series of wonderful surprises.

S/V Sanctuary

                 #$%&'   !" () * &+ & &, &-    '[ /0  1 2& ,&+  # 31 

ON Meanwhile, we had heard rumors of pirates attacking vessels just off the Haitian We got on the radio and told the other cruisers In 2009, our first season in the Bahamas, we We must say that we had some safety concerns We must say that we had some Getting There the south coast of the We departed Cabo Rojo on Later that evening the US Coast Guard cutter arrived to carry the Haitians back to carry the Haitians back Later that evening the US Coast Guard cutter arrived coast. One story was that a guy was approached by some men in a dugout; they boarded his boat, threw him off it, and he swam ashore and hiked back to the Dominican Republic. Although we always take precautions and have our security guide them. what was going on and asked if they could pre- pare some food and gather up some dry clothes or blankets for the Haitians. Our friends Karl and Carrie aboard were in Little Farmer’s Cay in the Exumas for the local sailboat races. However, another event was in store for us: we provided assistance to a Haitian sailboat that had been rescued by BASRA (Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Association). Bill had spotted the small sailboat being towed in and offered our assistance right away. BASRA granted us permission to provide food, drinks, clothing and anything else the passengers needed. BASRA explained that this boat had sailed from Haiti and had been at sea for four days when it encountered a squall. about traveling to Haiti, even though we had pre- about traveling to Haiti, even viously sailed thousands upon thousands of nau- tical miles. We knew that, given the bad economy, there were countless desperate people there who wanted to leave Haiti for a better life, especially after the 2010 earthquake. Dominican Republic at around noon. We were Dominican Republic at around quaint island bound for Ile-à-Vache, a beautifully of mainland Haiti, and just off the southern coast to its anchorage, Port sailed almost 120 miles need good light to get Morgan. We knew we would navigate through the through the reef and to fish traps. countless floats marking the

at Cow Island Cow at Harris by Bill and JoAnne Our ‘Out of Africa’ Experience of Africa’ ‘Out Our to Haiti. We understand the law, but our hearts sank for these Haitians who had for these Haitians who had to Haiti. We understand the law, but our hearts sank risked everything aboard this us, and collected the food and other items from us. We were not able to board the other boats in the anchorage and delivered it to began serving food up in Solo the BASRA boat, so we rafted up our dinghy to it and our chartering days. The 62 Cups along with plastic ware that we had left over from desperate to get to the USA. Haitians had fled because of the earthquake and were pushing, shoving or yelling. The entire rescue event was truly civilized: no one was the food and dry clothes from There was one outstanding gentleman who was taking it was time for BASRA to take us and kept passing it back to those behind him. Soon the food around pointed to them to the dock. The gentleman who had been passing only had a towel around his his pants, or where his pants should have been. He pulled off his shorts and gave waist. He needed a pair of pants, and immediately Bill about US$80 in the shorts’ them to him. The kicker is, we later realized there was lobsters. The money could not pockets that we were going to use to purchase fresh have gone to a nicer man. OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 earlier were there to greet us. We visited with them a bit and then began our walk earlier weretheretogreetus.Wevisitedwiththemabitandthenbeganourwalk arrived atthebeachwithdink,ourthree13-year-oldfriendsthatwehadmet tain, throughthepasturesandjungle,toseeAbakaBayResort.Whenwe derful peoplewouldbeoverjoyedtohavethemrunalightbulbintheirhome. If youhaveanydisusedboatbatteries,thisisaperfectplacetotakethem.Thesewon- and theyhavenoelectricityrunningwater.Also,therearecarsontheisland. Henry Morgan.Wefeltverysafewhilewewerehere.Mostpeopleareextremelypoor (“Kaykok”) bytheanchorage,BaiedePortMorgan—asinfamousprivateer/pirate in theirwork.Theyreceivedcashforschoolandweasparklingboat. the boat.Itwasamazingfun,asallweresmilingeartoandtooktremendouspride since theycanusethoseforspearfishing.Wehiredabouttenboys/mentoworkon them, andguideservicetothemarket.Wealsotradedmasksnorkelsetsforlabor, waxing thehull,washingsaltoffofstainlesssteelstanchionsandpolishing evenly toallwhohelpuswithprojects.Theprojectsincludedpaintingourlifering, spend onlaborandinsteadofgivingitalltooneperson,wewilldistributethemoney individuals; weexplainedtothemthatonlyhaveacertainamountofmoney they cannotgo. their moneyforschool.IftheydonotpaytheUS$25threemonthsofschoolfees, boat andseeifwehadsomesmalljobsforthem.Theyexplainedthattheyneeded were notgettinganyrest,wedecideditwastimetogetupandbegincleanthe our stateroomwindow,saying,“Bonjour!WelcometoIle-à-Vache,Haiti!”Sincewe them later. needed torestandthatwewoulddiscusswiththemanyjobsmighthavefor man wasinhisearly50s.Wequicklyexplainedtoallthatwewereexhaustedand whelmed. Mostofthe“boys”werebetweenagesfiveand19,onegentle- to runoverthecountlessfloatsanddugouts,wewereexhaustedalittleover- the same.WOWIE!Aftersailingover24hoursandsufferingstressoftryingnot Before weknewit,hadatleast15boatboysindugoutsallaround,offeringus and toldusthatifwehadanyjobsforhim,hewouldbeveryhappytoworkus. handed usaZiplocbagwithrecommendationletterinsidefromanothercruiser He sidledupbeside alongside aboardabeat-upsurfboardwithcut-offpalmtreebranchforpaddle. who isa“boatboy”—theboys/menhavenamedtheirprofessionthis.Hearrived gate preciselytothegifts.Theirbigsmilesweresogreatsee! replace theirplasticbottles.Thesemenareexquisitesailors,andwereabletonavi- purpose, sowethesepitchedtothefishermenassailedbythattheycould we hadcollectedonthewindwardsidesofislandsvisited,justforthis a floatandthrewthosetothem,too.Wealsohadnumberoffoamfishfloatsthat yelling “ — and theabundanceofactivity’ At MadameBernardVillageMarket:‘Greatenergyfromallofthepeople We decidedtotakeahikethroughthelittlevillageandthenupovermoun- This isareallybeautifulplaceandmosteveryonelivesinthevillageofCaiCoq We triedtocomeupwithsmallprojectsforthemdo.Ourideawashireseveral While weweretryingtorest,moreboatboyscameoutgreetus,hangingoutside We madeourwaysafelyintotheharborandweregreetedrightawaybyAshley, The WelcomingCommittee We practicallythrewourshouldersouttryingtopitchthemasfarpossibleand Continued frompreviouspage Blue La [email protected] Tel: 17844584308| St. Vincent &theGrenadines of BlueLagoon inRatho Mill, Nestled inthequietwaters (Formerly SunsailMarineCenter) Blue Lagoon Hotel&Marina

Free Rum Punch for all arriving boats! Bonjour g oon Hotel&Mari !” WetransferredCoca-Colaandwatertosmallerplasticbottleswith Ultra andinhaltingEnglishwelcomedustoIle-à-Vache.Healso VHF: 16/68 na MARINA RATES:

atthegovernmentregulatedprice GasolineandDieselareavailabledockside Monohull $0.77CatamaranUS$1.15 Dockage perfootday: HARRIS (2) HARRIS with boatboysthatwehadnotevenmetyet,wereaskingforletters. rewarding experience.Well,worddefinitelygotoutquicklyandwewereswarmed recommendation letter,sowecouldgiveittohimpersonally.Whatawonderfully one-gallon Ziplocbags.Weaskedthateachboatboycomeouttocollecthisown an signed them,andalsomadeaspecialhandwrittennoteoneach.Weincluded continuous visitors,weprintedoutalloftherecommendationlettersonebyone, a well-manneredandexperiencedworker.Afterdaysofboatprojectslots find aboatboywithourrecommendation,youcanbeconfidentthatarehiring al photosofthemselvesandourboatcards,sincethisistheirlivelihood.So,ifyou caffeine highforthenextthreedays,sincetheyprobablyseldomgettohavethese. of Cokesagainforthekids.WOWIE!Wethoughttheywouldfloatawayorbeona ended upfindinganotherhotel/hosteltypeplace.Weorderedbeersandtallbottles area. Itwasagreatwalk,andwegottovisitwithmanylocalsaspassedby.We kids. WethenheadedbackandovertoseethepointofCaiCoqexplorethat were sohappy!Wehadmuchfun,andweknowthatitwasatotaltreatforthe and orderedHaitianPrestigebeersforusCokescookiesthekids.They 13, butlookedmorelikeeightornine;theywereverysmall.Wemadeittotheresort through town.Theywererightbesideusthewholeway.Aswementioned,they We toldourhelpersthatwewouldgivethemallrecommendationletters,individu- Recommending Helpers Ultra Black Pearl Restaurant Sail Loft/Canvas Shop Book Exchange Service Laundry Mini Mart postcardwithaphotooftheboatonitandallwereplacedinindividual St. Vincent &theGrenadines Free Open Wifi Services Charter Bathrooms /Showers Taxi Service Beach Bar&Restaurant in dugoutsallaround’ had atleast15boatboys ‘Before weknewit, Provisioning Services A/C Power 110/220 24hrs security Car RentalService Fuel Dock —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

MANDY THODY Eau, Trois .com Below: Local boats on the beach at Soulette Oh yes, JoAnne forgot the drinks. Dry cassava bread and peanut but- Oh yes, JoAnne forgot the . ” . About two minutes later, Bill reported that the kids were saying “ . About two minutes later, dry coming up! The additional photo for this article was supplied by Mandy Thody of Good by Mandy Thody of Good The additional photo for this article was supplied with a primary school, Mandy tells us, “We work in several villages of Ile-à-Vache We thoroughly enjoyed our exploration of Ile-à-Vache and look forward to one day We thoroughly enjoyed our exploration of Ile-à-Vache We arrived at the dock and many friendly people were there to assist and greet us people were there to assist the dock and many friendly We arrived at Three Cups of Eau day in town, and our three daily visitors showed We arrived home from an amazing Left: ‘These men are exquisite sailors’ Left: ‘These men are exquisite Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. Good Samaritan Foundation of Haiti can be Foundation of Haiti can be Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. Good Samaritan or telephone Mandy on found on Facebook, and at www.goodsamaritanofhaiti.com, (340) 513-2022. adult ed, artisan training, scholarships for higher education, clinics, and a rapidly growing microcredit program. Please support our work to make the island economi- cally and socially stable, and preserve one of the most amazing environments and communities in the Caribbean!” visiting again. It is a wonderful stop if you decide to travel the southern route of the visiting again. It is a wonderful stop if you decide to travel to visit. island of Hispaniola. We hope you get the opportunity eaux s’il vous plait probably told each other, “This boat lady is crazy!” ter and jelly — oops! They experiencing one of our very own. We absolutely love market events, and this one love market events, one of our very own. We absolutely experiencing all of the people Great energy from of our experiences of a lifetime! was at the top immersed in this brilliant to be completely of activity. It was truly and the abundance cultural experience. unforgettable to the gun- dugouts were sailing in loaded Out in the harbour, the with a “bonjour”. the sun at the was everything under kinds of things to sell. There wales with all huts all around and metal-roof occupied a series of thatched-roof market. Vendors numerous produce, handmade baskets, with displays of beautiful us, complete a colorful bean of fresh and dried fish, by the ladle full, baskets grains, molasses (lots of knock-off designer T-shirts), lots of chickens run- selection, straw art, clothes US up all over the place, and a hut to exchange ning around, raw meat hanging (US$1 = 43.2 gourdes). We bought some wonderful cas- dollars for Haitian currency had of peanut brittle, which was sweet and savory and sava bread plus their version bot- and curry. Bill bought three tall, old-fashioned a kick with some spicy peppers than one US dollar. tles of ice cold Coke for less began making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. up minutes later. JoAnne quickly we did not ever see their parents around and won- (We felt for these kids, because meals for them. We could see the boys were truly dered if they prepared mid-day were out of loaves of bread, and now only had cassava hungry.) One problem: we key is more like dry flatbread. Well, unfortunately, the bread from the market, which word is

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Continued from previous page Continued from Madame Bernard Village Market We have never been to Africa, but it is on our bucket list. We have heard amazing St. François Orphanage greeted at the gate by the We hiked up to the St. François Orphanage and were Oh well, it was a great adventure and we forgot about it right away after seeing the Oh well, it was a great adventure and we forgot about Ashley told us that it was still farther and still farther. It took us about an hour Ashley told us that it was still farther and still farther. We began in the harbor, and then out into the sea we went. We followed the coast- We began in the harbor, and then out into the sea we We had organized with Ashley to be our guide and picked him up off the beach at We had organized with Ashley to be our guide and picked Dinghy Drama Dinghy Drama of Madame which was to go to the village for our next adventure, It was now time We tried to politely explain that if they had not worked for us, we could not do that not worked for us, we could explain that if they had We tried to politely

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stories from friends who have been to African marketplaces, and we felt as if we were friendly staff. We requested to meet with Sister Flora. She politely took time out of friendly staff. We requested to meet with Sister Flora. milk powder, oatmeal, clothes her busy schedule to visit with us and to accept the She gave us a tour of the and linens that we had brought with us as a donation. with the children. Many orphanage, an amazing facility with a staff that is wonderful see the compassion and love of the children have special needs, and we could clearly to visit, please keep in mind the staff had for all of them. If you have the opportunity day that they especially need that they need just about everything. We learned that medications of all kinds. mesmerizing market. Everyone was arriving from all around the island by burro with mesmerizing market. Everyone was arriving from all around burro parking lot. Also, many all of the goods they were going to sell. They even had a and sailing dugouts. people were arriving from the mainland via a water taxi and a half to get to Madame Bernard. Too bad we did not take photos, but we were and a half to get to Madame Bernard. Too bad we did quick trip by boat, if you have too busy almost swamping the boat. Note to self: It is a a bigger motor and a bigger boat! line, but the waves were on the nose and they were all coming into the boat. OMG, line, but the waves were on the nose and they were all the bailer back in the dink the dink was filling up big time. We had forgotten to put a big passage, we remove the after making our overnight passage. (When we make fuel tank, paddles, lifejackets, 15-horsepower motor and all items inside the dink: out of her backpack, trans- bailer, etcetera.) So JoAnne quickly pulled a Ziploc bag for the orphanage into it, and ferred the contents of the huge container of oatmeal was coming in as fast as then used the container for a bailer. Lots and lots of water the salty waves, then surprise, it was being bailed. We were all soaked to the bone in out the day; all we could do the rain came down in buckets, too. What a way to start was laugh. adrenaline pumping experience! his beachfront home. One option had been for us to get to Madame Bernard via a his beachfront home. One option had been for us to own nine-foot dinghy. Being hike and then a water taxi. The other was to take our and do some additional the crazy people we are, we decided to take our own dinghy sightseeing. Okay, no problem, well nun who runs it. We had food, clothing and linens to donate. After that, we would nun who runs it. We had food, clothing and linens to go to Madame Bernard’s spectacular outdoor market. Bernard to visit the St. François Orphanage and meet Sister Flora, the remarkable and meet Sister Flora, the St. François Orphanage Bernard to visit for them. However, we did give them cookies and pink lemonade. we did give them cookies for them. However, — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 and, shortofafewoldbikerbarsfromthatera,Ihaveneverseensomuch“ink”. I danced.Long-hairedpiratesinthetrailerpark!Oh,well. who atthetimehadbeenseafor26daysfromCanalZone.Imadesomenoise. legal firecrackers,an80thbirthdaysalutetomyfellowsinglehanderLonMatlock, well. Imean, ebrated abit. aid ofsomefineAbuelorum,thecompanysailorsandafewbeers…well,wecel- edge whichdefinesbothagoodlandingandsuccessfulpassage.Ireach!Withthe sioned inthissinglehanderaneedtocelebratethethinedgeIhadsurvived—that fated non-surfer eyesappearedtobeaveryuglyplacelandfall.Formomenttheill- dog allsettledtogetherreadytoabandonshipratherthangetcaughtinwhatmy her awayfromthatleeshore.Iactuallyhadmyditchkit,EPIRB,kayak,logsand anchors runandveryslowly,withstomachheartchurning,tenderlysailed there. WhenthewinddidreturnIpulleda“cutandrun”:inlightbreezeletmy Mermaid “Dr. Jekyll”,afterthewinddiedandaforementionedcurrentalmostput the 120milesfromPortoBellotoIslaColóninBocasdelToroprovince. steady runningeasterlycurrent.Ittookmesevenmoredays—16inalltosail not yetreachedowingtolightorstrongconstantlyshiftingwinds,nowind,anda It isageless.wetanditoverwhelminglygreen.Toomuchgreen! groves, rivers,barrierreefsandrainforests:athousandmilesof...nothing.Itisdark. Bay ofHonduras—liesamonstrous,mostlyuninhabitedleeshoreswamps,man- turning northwardalongthecoastsofCostaRicathenNicaragua,andwestinto tinuing ontoBocasdelToro. and, withthecaptainnowofficiallydeclareddead,Icouldgetsomerestbeforecon- ing thebusyshippinglanesinmorning.Ihoistedmyverticalsetofredlights reaching theFarallonnorthofPortoBello,Panama,Ichosetoheavebeforecross- main andaspitfirejib, I havenotbeeninaplacelikeBocasdelTorosincelivedKeyWestthe’60s News of Needless tosay(butI’llit)mysafearrivalundersailattheBocasmarinaocca- This wasaccomplishedonlyafterhavingtodropmy250-poundemergencyanchor, I sailedviathesmallislandofEscudodeVeragua—whichninedayslaterhad From PortoBellowestwards—onceacrossthebusyapproachtoPanamaCanal, Leaving thehotel-filledskylineofArubaasternandsettingoutundertriple-reefed A SINGLEHANDER’S Water PearlofBequia BOCAS DELTORO ontoIslaColón’sBluffBeach—totheamusementofsurfersplaying Mermaid’s sailing SOJOURN AT intotheanchorage—“Howreckless!”,etcetera.Ialsofired,with arrivalcheeredsomeand,asusual,ruffledafewfeathers Mermaid ofCarriacou flashedacrossmymind. by JohnSmith neverfellbelowsixknotsuntil,upon

STEVE JOST STEVE the anchorage Sunset over Left: different. DifferenceisthatIstayedforovertwoyears! Christopher Columbusover500yearsago—and,tobesureourboats,arenotmuch approaching theverycutthroughislandsofBastimentosandSolarteashad Bahia Hondamighthavethoughtwhentheysaw type or ubiquitous; itmakesforsomereallydelightfulshoppingexpeditions. Their ancestorsallhadaroleintheconstructionofCanalandtheirpresenceis Colón, my seven-foot spinning pole bent double and the reel sang its glorious song. Colón, myseven-footspinningpolebentdoubleandthereelsangitsglorioussong. absolutely beautifulsightoftheSmithsonianInstituteJungleResearchStationonIsla friend fromaboardmyinflatableandtowingasmallsurfacesquid,whilepassingthe sounds, bays,mangrovebaysandbeachesofBocasdelToro.Whilefishingwitha affected area,greatlydecreasingtheamountofnecrosisandsecondaryinfection.) vasodilator, openstheseverysmallbloodvessels,restoringabitofcirculationtothe massive necrosisandseverelylimitinghealingpotential.Thenitroglycerine,beinga jelly —totheopenwound.Thetoxinslowlyshutsdowncapillarysystem,causing Recluse bites:thatofapplyinganitroglycerineandpetroleumjelly—ormaybealoe large scar.(AllthisoccurredbeforeIlearnedofanewtherapyintheeventBrown Brown RecluseSpider,resultinginalonganduglyhealingprocessleaving of thedeadlyvarietiesatall,althoughIdidhappentobebittenonthighbya another Abuelo. majority ofthemosquitoesaway.It’seasiertojustgoswimmingorsurfing…have is probablygoodbecauseallthesmacking,slappingandswattingwillalsokeep biting sandfliescalled as well.And,unlessyouhavealreadybeentotheBayIslandsofHonduras,local kitchen: “GoodFoodTakesaWhile.YoursWillBeReadyinMinute”. bartop, and,yep,youcangetservedfoodherebuttakenoteofthesignover surfer barwithcolddrinks,widescreenTVsandoccasionallyafewpolesonthe mission controlforalargepartoftheBoca’sgringopopulation.Arowdy,roady surface therecanusuallybeheardsomerock’n‘rollcomingfromTheLocoToro, aroma ofadozendifferentbakeriesandlunchbuffets.Andnotsofarbeneaththe Libertador, SimónBolívar,andsurroundedbyChinesegrocersthecombined swings andanoccasionallyoperatingfountain,allmadecompletebyabustofEl trees sohugetheyseemtohavestoodthereforever.Agazebo,flowers,children’s Chinese. Ichallengeyoutofindasingle is amind-alteringexperienceinitself.Wanttogogroceryshopping?Learnsome with CunaIndianwomenintraditionalwovenclothesgoldringstheirnoses for over8,000years.SeeingIsraelisurfergirlsincut-offsandtanktopshaggling Ngobe-Bugle andtheCunadialectofSanBlasIslands,bothspokeninthisarea backpackers, probably20differentlanguagesincludingboththelocalGuaymi Everyone herehasatattoo.Really!Music,barefeet,bicycles,longhair,surfers, I stillcannotgettheimageofthatIsraelisurfergirloutmyhead—somearche- There is also some great small boat cruising and fishing among the countless bights, There isalsosomegreatsmallboatcruisingandfishingamongthecountlessbights, I neversawacrocodileovereightfeetlongorsnake12,andone Be forewarned,however:thereareafewofthelessthandesirablebeastiesaround One ofmyfavoriteshoreactivitieswasjusttositinthecommodiousparkamong of Carriacou sloop, Grenadine island 50-year-old aboard his Right: Theauthor deja vu Mermaid perhaps,similarperhapstowhattheGuaymifolksatbottomof

COLLECTION OF JOHN SMITH chitre herewilldefinitelygetandholdyourattention—which mercado herenotoperatedbyChinesefolks. Mermaid ofCarriacou —Continued onnextpage underfullsail OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 bags: shakara Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines Below: A view of Isla Colón from Isla Carenero The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE In modern times they are mostly kept safe by the older women of the tribe who by the older women of they are mostly kept safe In modern times I gave the stone to my friend, who gave it into the care When I left Bocas del Toro — and learn from these people, it is perhaps that As for why I linger to explore you do not mind seven metres of rain a year, months A wonderful spot, truly — if of the magical places in the Caribbean. Bocas del Toro remains one A plethora of exotic anchorages. A pool of foreign cultures. A web of international and local languages. Indian All woven together as elaborately as one of the fine Guaymi Left: Lively Bocas Town has small hotels for backpackers and surfers Left: Lively Bocas Town has small hotels for backpackers kind. I had discovered an ancient “thunder stone” made by the ancestors “in a time stone” made by the ancestors an ancient “thunder kind. I had discovered but erased any and conquest had all before European encroachment before time”, and all but wrought many changes history. Time had inexorably pre-Columbian had survived stone, this thunder stone, people’s identity, but this erased an entire of its maker. in the hands of the descendants — and was now to the abdomen stone is heated and applied During childbirth the serve as midwives. between the a continuing connection to ease her pain and to ensure of the mother of those ances- to ensure that the spirits and the ancient ancestors, young newborn lives. Whew! I influence on their of the birthing and a continued tors are a part farmer’s hoe. thought it was just an old and its story far outshone the glass bottles and bead of his wife. It belonged in Bocas, society. It was, after all, ultimately my friends’ prop- trinkets of a later, more jaded an ancient one who lived here thousands of years before erty, made by a grandfather, the long line of history established by these indigenous and could now help maintain from a time before time. people as a thunder stone — I and the sailing community of the apart from my own father I hold so much respect. have never met people for whom and wild currents. Not a sailor’s ideal harbor — espe- of flat calm, shifting winds So, after waiting around a few years for the Bocas boat- cially one from Carriacou! I Almirante to open (which it did six months after I left), yard and hauling facility in and reckless son of a friend and with him as appren- shanghaied the young, strong Bay a shipyard farther to the north, perhaps in the tice seaman set out to find Islands of Honduras. strong but simple, functional and beautiful.

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[email protected] 1 (784) 495 0235 VHF 68 BEQUIA MARINA Continued from previous page Continued from About 20 years ago a few small islands very near to Isla Colón sank. Disappeared... About 20 years ago a few small islands very near to Isla Underwater it gets even more interesting. In addition to the healthy reefs and Underwater it gets even more interesting. In addition What turned out to be a 28-pound barracuda did not want to get anywhere near did not want to get out to be a 28-pound barracuda What turned Electric: 110V 30Amp phtt… gone. It was to one of these sites that I often swam while towing my kayak phtt… gone. It was to one of these sites that I often investigating the hard bottom with air bottle and “snuba” hose. I spent many hours vegetable matter, leaving a from which the currents had swept all the soft dirt and area was quite clean and by hard coral surface. Except for some young corals, the and one day a most remark- swimming just along the bottom, I found many bottles, an axe. It was about seven able find: a stone axe or adze head, more like a hoe than a very hard stone not com- by four inches broad and about an inch thick, made from it to a resident Canadian mon on the islands here. It was old, very old. I carried my artifact and estimated its archaeologist who confirmed the handmade nature of in the village of Saigon on age at about 3,000 years! I visited some Guaymi friends some response. There was Isla Colón and showed to them my find, hoping to elicit to his wife who spoke neither excitement and there was silence. My friend showed it and awe”, but of the quiet Spanish nor English, prompting a combination of “shock extensive fish population, here in the underwater world, history is literally at your extensive fish population, here in the underwater world, beginning in 1502, including fingertips. With a long history of European visitation those who were re-settled all those who settled here after completion of the Canal, by thousands of ships, the here by the fruit and banana empires, and who came Chinese opium syrettes to seabed is a bottle collector’s wonderland. Everything from than ten feet of water sur- 18th century liquor bottles is found here, often in less visiting here should visit rounding the larger towns, especially Bocas. Anyone array of what has been found Captain Billy’s Bottle Shop to get an idea of the vast eyes almost always yields and is still being found here. Being in the water with good dozen such bottles while just up some artifact from a bygone era. I found several with friends; these artifacts exploring with my snorkel gear and kayak. I left them so seemed to belong here. had come a long way to be thrown into the sea here and my dinghy. And when it was finally almost alongside, the quandary became my own: alongside, the quandary when it was finally almost my dinghy. And grunt” with a four-foot-long “saber-toothed boat, what to do in a rubber inflatable long — I mean a wound up demanding a of razor-sharp teeth? It with a mouthful The Indians arm slash to quiet the critter. arm stretch and a right very long — left was cut up and it for years, so the fish knew the area and had fished and other folks using live jacks boating 30-pound cobia that same week I was shared out. Later deck with a small Japanese caught from my — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 DOMINICA IN CANYONING HIKING AND

ALL ASHORE… PAUL TOBIAS / INSET CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS INSET / TOBIAS PAUL to nearbytreesroostforthenight. parrots; theyoftenpassbyontheirway imperalis lookout toseetheSisserou( the placeforyou.Herethereisaspecial you areabirdwatcherthenSyndicateis stantly lookingwhereyouarewalking.If you arenotstrugglingtoclimborcon- and theterraingentlyundulatessothat The pathiswideandwellmaintained, totally immersedin Diablotin Park,fromwhichpointyouare the Syndicatevisitors’centreinMorne Syndicate loop.Thetrailstartsbehind the easierhikesthatIdidwas according tothelevelofdifficulty.One beauty oftheirislandseriously. trails. Dominicanstakethenatural tor centresandtrailheads,patrolthe pass: forestersarestationedatthevisi- chance andgoonthetrailswithouta signs. Donotthinkthatyoucantakea some shopsnearertothesites—lookfor Roseau, aswellatvisitorcentresand available fromtheForestryDivisionin entitles youtounlimitedvisits.Theyare US$5; aweekpasscostsUS$12and Parks isamust-do. strenuous trailhikingintheNational way togettingepicbuttocks.Butmore walking aroundwillgetyouwellonthe exploring —andhavingfun! in theNationalParksisamust-do Dominica’s rainforest,andtrailhiking Waterfalls aredottedthroughout I Sewlal Nina Jo-Anne by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal There are many hiking trails listed There aremanyhikingtrailslisted Parrots andWaterfalls A one-dayNationalParkspasscosts Dominica ismountainous,sojust requires alotofhikingand island’s spiders.Thisjob doing abiologicalsurveyofthe June andJulyofthisyear, spent fiveweeksonDominicain ) andJaco( Amazona arausiaca montane rainforest. rainforest. Amazona Amazona ) stairs likeyouwouldaladder. ascent: again,youhavetoclimbthe the waywithlastpartinasteep gently undulatesforabouttwo-thirdsof — ifyougothecorrectwaytrail takes oneandahalftotwohours centre insteadofthetrailhead.)Thehike trail backtofront,startingatthevisitor trailhead isgone.(Weactuallydidthe that leadstoBoeriLake;thesignat head youdrivealittlewaydowntheroad washroom facilities.Togettothetrail- as awhole.Thereissnacketteand information ontheareaandDominica interpretation roomhousingexhibitsand opens around10:00 of thevisitors’centre.Thecentreusually Freshwater Lakeendsattheparkinglot Lake, intheareaofLaudat.Theroadto utes toanhouroneway. falls down.Thishiketakesabout45min- which youcanfeelthesprayaswater teau attheendisawoodenplatformfrom for allyourhardwork.Onthesmallpla- see thewaterfalls,isaspectacularreward However, theviewattop,whenyou that onehastoclimbstepslikealadder. ascent beingquitesteep—somuch and slipperyattimes,withthefinal stream crossings.Thetrailgetsnarrow the oppositebank.Thisisfirstoftwo across. Theropeendsatalittletenton rope stretchedacrosstohelphikersget wooden stairs,wegottoariverthathad head. Proceedingdownsomeflightsof house andanopenfieldtoreachthetrail- parking, wewalkedbyanunfinished “waterfall, waterfall!”andpoint.After “human signs”—residentswouldshout hike toit.Alongthewayweencountered and onthespurofmomentdecidedto leagues andIsawasignforSariFalls falls. Drivingalongthecoast,mycol- oua iigdsiaini water- is destination hiking popular A Another popularhikeistoFreshwater Hikes toLakes A popularhikingdestinationiswater- —Continued onnextpage AM andfeaturesan OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

PAUL TOBIAS —Continued on next page —Continued on to get to the Valley and the Boiling Lake beyond. Then and the Boiling Lake to get to the Valley one can slippery descent, from which there is a steep, up. Some of trail to Boiling Lake picks see where the fallen owing to mini-landslides. the stairs had Right: On steep parts of the trails ‘you have to climb the stairs like you would a ladder…’ Left: The trail gently undulates. Along the way you see splendid views of Freshwater Lake JO-ANNE NINA SEWLAL The last lake we visited was a bit different. The hike to Boiling Lake passes through the Valley of Desolation. to Boiling Lake passes through the Valley of Desolation. Although not the longest hike on Dominica, it is regarded as the most strenuous and although my col- leagues and I are experienced hikers, we were advised to use a guide. The trail starts at Laudat and takes you past huge pipes used in the island’s geothermal exploration. About three-quarters of the hike to the Valley of Desolation is uphill. Along the way there is a plateau as the trail follows the ridge through elfin woodland, where one can see Sisserou or Jaco parrots. But do not stop for too long, as you have a way to go is reported to have its own Nessie-like creature. A have its own Nessie-like is reported to lake will take the left of the sign at the short path to are gone Unfortunately the railings you to a platform. in, but that of the floor is caved and about a quarter spot to have it from being a good does not prevent lake and look the natural beauty of the lunch, take in creature”. out for the “lake Continued from previous page Continued from To get to Boeri Lake, we parked at the parking lot at Lake, we parked at the parking To get to Boeri But all the way you see splendid views of the lake you see splendid views But all the way there. There are no visitor facilities; the road just ends there. There are no visitor facilities; the road just ends at a cul-de-sac and there is a sign indicating the start of the trail. Although rated as having a difficulty level of “three”, we did not find it very difficult. However, one has to be careful as the rocks that pave the way are slippery and there are two small stream crossings. The entire hike takes between 45 minutes and an hour. At the start you’ll pass a short way through montane for- est, and then most of the trail is through elfin wood- land. Along the way you get some amazing views of the hillsides and the village of Laudat. The shore of the lake is very rocky with some big boulders, and the lake Freshwater Lake and walked to the trailhead from and walked to the trailhead Freshwater Lake and the surrounding mountains. There is said to be a mountains. There and the surrounding crater to nearby Boeri Lake, another trail that leads not find it. lake, but we did — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 so, asachangefromhiking,wedecidedtotakeboat west, thereistheIndianRiver.Wehadsomefreetime enter thetownofPortsmouth,inisland’snorth- part ofTitouGorge. one atthesametime,orrightafterother. time. Youwillfeelafreezingbreezeandthenwarm point isthatyoucanfeelbothhotandcoldatthesame can seebubblingonthelake’ssurface.Oneunusual taking, worththehiketogetthere.Onacleardayyou second largestboilinglakeintheworld.Itisbreath- ascent, youreachtheplateauaboveBoilingLake, expanse foranother15minutesand,afterafinalshort quite short,afterwhichitisacrossanotherdryrocky or stoptohavelunch.Thehikethroughtheforestis there aremanysmallpoolswhereonecanhaveadip as itcrossestheriveratmultiplepoints.Alongway tricky, asitisdifficulttopickupwherethetrailstarts the startofforest.Thisiswheregoinggets attempt wasnotveryartistic—thewaterishot! in thesulphurdeposits.Itriedmyhandatthis,but phur accumulatesontherocks.Thetourguidewrote slow-moving streamthatflowsthroughtheValley,sul- hand —pressurewasbeingreleased.Attherather from asmallcrackintherocksnexttowhereIputmy climbed overtherocksIcouldhearhissingcoming vents andsmellsulphurintheair.Inonepart,asI of Desolation. across them.AttheendofthisdescentisValley huge smoothboulderswithsomefootholdscarved descent: onehastocrossastreamthatflowsover —

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia The islandclaimstohave365rivers,andjustasyou Indian RiverBoatRide We endedthatvisitwithaswimthroughtheshallow After crossingtheValley,trailpicksupagainat As onecrossestheValleyyouseesteamrisingfrom One shouldbecautiousonthefinalpartof Continued frompreviouspage

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Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. movie “PiratesoftheCaribbean2”. jetty. ItwaspartofthesetCalypso’shutfor we sawaweatheredlittlehousecompletewithtiny boat andheadedback. stop thereandwalkalongthetrailweboardedour non-alcoholic drinkssuchasherbalteas.Afterashort rum punches,manyinfusedwithlocalspices)and but offersalcoholicbeverages(includingavarietyof modate ourboats.TheBushBardoesnotservefood, the riverwasbykayak,asittooshallowtoaccom- Bush Bar.Atthispointtheonlywaytocontinueup the littlewoodenjettythatleadstoIndianRiver banks oftheriverthatrunsthroughcity. Roseau becausethisreedwassoabundantalongthe kets. Wewereinformedthatthecapitalcitywasnamed reeds, whichtheAmerindiansusetoweavetheirbas- the riverbankswerecoveredinthickpatchesof low and,asthedayprogresses,turnorange.Partsof hibiscus ( heron. Wesawtheplantknownasbeachorsea birds, includinggreenheronandyellowcrownednight a largeschoolofsilvermullet,andlatervariety some historyofthearea.Atstartridewesaw the differentfloraandfaunaalongwayrelated and youcanbuyitonthespot. hour andahalftwohours.Asitepassisneeded, ride there.ItcostUS$15eachandlastedbetweenan beautifully restoredhistoricbuildings Try thelooptrailthatleadsyoupastmanyof is theCabritsGarrison,overlookingPrinceRupertBay. Above: AlsopartofDominica’sNationalParksystem The highlightwasalittletributaryatthesidewhere We stoppedattheTickingCrocTavernandboarded Our guidewasquiteknowledgeableandshowedus In Dominica,you’reneverfarfromwater Right: Astreamflowsoverandaroundboulders. FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Hibiscus tiliaceus Fax:(758)4520311 ), whosepetalsstartoffyel- Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners roseaux

e-mail:[email protected] www.caribbeanspiders.com. St. Augustine,Trinidad&Tobago.Visitherwebsiteat the Dept.ofLifeSciences,UniversityWestIndies, Environment Tobago to visitDominicaagain! Pitons andMorneDiablotin.Iguesshaveanexcuse those hikes. show offthebunsthatyouhavedevelopedafterall before asmallbellyflopintotheriver,soyougetto you whatpositionneedtobeinforeachdive. extremely knowledgeableabouttherouteandwilltell through awaterfall),hikinganddiving.Theguidesare gorge involvesamixtureofrappelling(including you ingentlyifarenervous.)Gettingthroughthe let yougoandsplashin.Greatfun!(Theycan you neartheend,justafewfeetabovewater,they you crossthestreamandmakeyourfirstrappel.When Caribbean”. Attheendofashortwalkintoforest, of theCageBonesdropscenein“Pirates the bottomofrappelholdingmainrope. “on yourown”asthereisaguideatthetopandone also includesafrictiondevice,soyouareneverreally body positionandwheretoputyourhands.Thegear ling walltogetfamiliarwiththeequipment,correct Then youreceiveashorttrainingsessiononrappel- spending mostofthetwotothreehoursinwater.) and willnotfallapartwhentheygetwet:yoube jacket andhelmet.(Wearshoesthathaveagoodgrip CHRIS DOYLE with awetsuit,harness(referredtoas don’t haveacardyoucanbuyoneforUS$15. era forUS$35usingyourownmemorycard.Ifyou and allequipment.YoucanrentaGoProhelmetcam- the officetoTitouGorge.Italsoincludestwoguides Extreme DominicaofficeinRoseau,andtofrom down. Thepriceincludestransporttoandfromthe US$160, however,forlargegroupsthepricegoes maximum of16persons.Thepriceperindividualis Extreme Dominica.Canyoningisofferedingroupsofa Jo-Anne N.SewlalPh.D.istheeditorof A coupleofhikesthatIdidnotdoweretoTrois At theendthereisa“shakeyourbooty”competition After thatyouareshuttledofftoTitouGorge,thesite At theExtremeDominicaofficeyouget“gearedup” I alsotooktheopportunitytogocanyoningwith Canyoning atTitouGorge newsletterandisaninstructorin Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint “ diaper”), life- OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

MARTIN SMYTH —Continued on next page , a 54-foot Gardner-designed, ketch- had heavy weather helm. An hour on had a midship cockpit, so there was a Pixie Pixie Atlantica SEAWISE WITH DON STREET SEAWISE in a round the world race with only one stop.

DISASTER OR DISASTER , a 46-foot, Stevens-designed gaff-rigged schooner, also had an emergency , a 46-foot, Stevens-designed gaff-rigged schooner, also

from the rudder head. In contrast was our experience aboard (As an aside, by the time we had reached Bermuda on that delivery we had (As an aside, by the time we had reached Bermuda on that delivery we had Steering Cables On cable steering systems the most common failure is broken cables. Replacing If the boat has a long stern, a centerline tiller can be installed with the tiller going In any case, have an emergency tiller that you know works. Before a passage, go Today, most boats are so wide that a better arrangement would be to make the Almost all emergency tillers are designed to pass over the wheel steering stand. Atlantica I was delivering a 40-foot sloop with a short but attached rudder from Grenada with a short keel but attached rudder from Grenada I was delivering a 40-foot sloop Emergency Tillers tillers was brought home to me early in my The inadequacy of many emergency Steering loss all too often results in abandoning ship. Under some circumstances, in abandoning ship. Under some circumstances, Steering loss all too often results

LOSS OF STEERING: OF STEERING: LOSS INCONVENIENCE? learned to trim the gaff vangs that we had rigged, so that the twist was completely learned to trim the gaff vangs that we had rigged, so that the twist was completely removed from the main and fore when sheets were eased. This removed the weath- er helm to the point that my daughter Dory, age 11, could stand a one-hour helm watch. But gaff vangs are another story: contact [email protected] for more information.) the helm and the helmsman’s arms had been stretched so much he looked like an the helm and the helmsman’s arms had been stretched so we made a wooden exten- orangutan. The emergency tiller was made out of pipe, arm. sion that fitted into the end to create an eight-foot lever rigged motorsailor that we were delivering from St. Croix to Ft. Lauderdale. The second day out, the hydraulic steering failed. However it was no problem as Gardner had designed a proper emergency tiller. steering cables at sea is difficult, but not impossible. Megayacht skipper Billy Porter started his career in the Royal Navy as a teenager and retired as Chief Warrant Officer after running the Royal Navy sail-training establishment. He tells the story of Great Britain II gaff falling off as sheets are eased), aft out in heavy weather and test your emergency tiller, not only going to windward, but also on a broad reach and dead downwind, two points of sailing that require a lot of steering. emergency tiller in a T going across the boat. This would be much easier to make and give a longer lever arm, plus, being in a T, two people could steer, one on port side the other on the starboard side. The arms of the T should be made removable to facilitate easy storage of the tiller. This arrangement looks good on paper but when you try to use it in heavy weather, especially going downwind, because of the height of the tiller, it does not work. In 2003, this J/44’s rudder reportedly ‘snapped off’ about 1,000 miles east of In 2003, this J/44’s rudder reportedly ‘snapped off’ about steering and towing, Barbados. Her crew, after unsuccessful attempts at jury-rigged later washed ashore abandoned ship and boarded another yacht. The J/44 on Barbados large poop deck. We undid a deck plate, lifted a cushion on the aft cabin bunk, dropped the emergency tiller through the deck plate onto the rudder head, and we were all set. The tiller was a full six feet long, giving us plenty of leverage. tiller which, we discovered when we tested it, was really useless. The lever arm was tiller which, we discovered when we tested it, was really on a reach (because of the only three feet long and, typical of gaff-rigged schooners, to Ft. Lauderdale via St. Thomas. About 50 miles west of San Juan, the hydraulic About 50 miles west of San Juan, the hydraulic to Ft. Lauderdale via St. Thomas. well We installed the emergency tiller but it was neither steering system packed up. big- after about five hours. I discovered that the designed nor strong and collapsed the set would fit on the rudder head. A tackle on gest socket in the socket wrench to sail her 400 miles to San wrench handle led to a winch gave us enough control the emergency tiller. Salvador in the Bahamas, where we stopped and rebuilt career as a delivery skipper. career as a delivery skipper. this is perhaps the wisest course of action. But at other times, the ability to use an of action. But at other times, the ability to use this is perhaps the wisest course a broken steering cable, or steer using the sails and/or emergency tiller, replace a completed passage. drogue, can result in a successfully OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 he isaseaman.” way toHawaiiusingthesamerigas and Hawaiiaverybeamyone-tonnerhedesignedlostherrudder.Theysailedallthe winches. TheywereabletosailtheallwaybackPlymouth. pole, portandstarboard.Theywereattachedtoadroguestreamedasternled spinnaker poleacrossthedeck,ranlinesthroughblockssecuredtoendsof rudder inthe1953FastnetRaceshortlyafterroundingRock.Sheriggedher who havetriedthisriganditdoesnotwork. naker polewithadoorsecuredtoit.Ihaveheardandreadaboutdozensofsailors sembled forstorageuntilneeded. makes emergencyruddersspecificallydesignedforyourboat,whichcanbedisas- become acommonenoughoccurrencethatinSouthAfricathereiscompany losing arudder replacing asteeringcableinportbeforegoingtosea. spare cablestheresothattheywereeasytorunoncehepulledthebrokencable. assembled allthetoolsheneeded,storedtheminlazarette,andsecured three hoursbuteachtimehechangedacablereducedthenecessary.He would diveintothelazaretteandchangeacable.Thefirsttimeittookhimalmost watchman duty,hewouldsethisalarmfor2400;theminutewentoff ber whowasinchargeofthesteeringcablesreportedthateverytimehehad ashore, butonecrewmemberalwaysstayedonboardaswatchman.Thecrewmem- — and said,”Newcableinstalledtensioned;getunderway!” two orthreehourstodothejob.But20minuteslaterhepoppedoutofhatch crewmember dovebelowtoreplaceit,andtherestofcrewfeltitwouldtakehim time camehecouldreplacethebrokencable. member wastoldtogetallthegearandsparecablesassembledsothatwhen so theboatwouldliehovetountilbrokencablecouldbereplaced.Onecrew- the spinnakerwouldbedoused,staysailhoisted,mainandmizzentrimmed would haveasteeringcablebreak.Whenthishappened,theboatroundup, of thislength,withthousandsmilessailingdownwindintheRoaringForties,they read available viatheinternet. information isstillvalid,thatbothbooksareaworthwhileinvestment.They able timelessinformationinbothbooksandsailorsregularlytellmethatsomuch changed, muchnewequipmenthascomeonthemarket,butthereisstillatonofvalu- sold. Sailing Yacht,Volume1 ed asacompletedisasterbutrathermajorinconvenience. drogue routine. alone thanasingle-headsailsloop.Oncethewindgoesaftofabeam,switchto or cutter.Thecutterwithastaysailaswelljibiseasiertosteerundersail a boatusingsailsonly.Thisiseasyonketchoryawl,hardbutpossiblesloop no rudderonashort-keeledracingmachine. cake, LowellandPeterinsistedonsailingintothemarina,includingtacking,allwith finish, steeringbycarefullytrimmingthesails.Thistheydid.Toputicingon Barrett, bothOlympicgoldmedalists,insistedthattheycouldcontinuetheraceand should dropoutandsecureatowbuttheskipper,LowellNorth,mate,Peter in 1978whileracingtheMiddleSeaRaceforSardiniaCup.Thecrewfeltthey steering strictlybytrimmingthesailsandadjustingdrogue. drogue. Hebeattowindward,tacked,reached,ranandjibed,allwithnorudder, steer thenow-rudderlessboatbytowingaHathaway,Reiser&Raymond“seabrake” spade rudder.Heremovedtherudderandthendemonstratedthathecould he couldsailaSwan44thathadtherudderandskegremovedreplacedby at thewidestpartofboat. beamy theyjustledlinesportandstarboardthroughblockssecuredtotherailcap The famousyachtdesignerDougPetersenreportsthathalfwaybetweenCalifornia Olivier vanNoort But ifyoudonothaveanemergencyrudder,wastetimetryingtorigaspin- Now thatthevastmajorityofboatsbuiltinlasttenyearshavespaderudders, Rudder Loss For thosethataredoinglongpassageswithcablesteering,itisworthwhiletotry How didhedothejobsofast?When Inevitably, asteeringcablebrokeandallwentaccordingtoplan.Thedesignated ThecrewwereallfromtheRoyalNavysailingprogram.Theyfiguredthatonarace Bill Cooper,inhisbook Footnote: Thereismoreinformationaboutsteeringlossinmybook In thelightofallabove,losssteeringorruddershouldnotberegard- With thewindabeamorforwardofgoodsailorsonmostboatscansteer My favoritestoryofallisthe Mike KeyworthoncedemonstratedtoMarkPillsbury,editorof Continued frompreviouspage www.caribbeancompass.com The OceanSailingYacht,Volume2 The OceanSailingYacht We’re the Web! on Caribbean Compass

entirely byhittingsomething,orhavingtherudderdropout,has , a55-footcutterdesignedandbuiltbyDeVriesLentsch,losther . Thisbookwasprintedin1974and140,000copieswere FREE On-line Sell UpandSail byDonStreet.isanopinionatedeccentric,but Williwaw Olivier vanNoort , ©1979,isallnewerinformation.Timeshave Great BritainII , writes:“…ifyouplantogooffshore, , a48-footsloopthatlostherrudder buttheone-tonnerwasso wasinportthecrewlived Cruising World The Ocean , how OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

Traumerei in the ’70s from in the ’70s from had a downside, —Continued on next page Traumerei Traumerei DELIVERY by Chris Doyle was great. She was a sturdy boat around 38 feet long, Traumerei TRAUMEREI with jury-rigged steering system after safe arrival Traumerei at the old GYS docks in St. George’s Lagoon, Grenada The Delivery As a delivery, Although Susan was just a kid at the time, she remembers the rudder rightly. We This was before the invention of GPS and one of the pleasures of being a skipper We followed the usual course for deliveries to the islands: we sailed to the I did wonder about those gas jugs as we left Florida and all around us were light- “I know this sounds crazy but I am wondering if you are the Chris Doyle who but I am wondering if you are the Chris Doyle who “I know this sounds crazy Losing a rudder and abandoning ship has been a feature on several sailors’ has been a feature on and abandoning ship Losing a rudder THE did finally end up in Grenada, after a breakdown stop in St. Thomas. This happened long ago and I’ve been lucky to now be back in touch with two of the other partici- pants to help fill in details. Florida to Grenada. Well, actually we ended up in St. Thomas because we lost the the we ended up in St. Thomas because we lost Florida to Grenada. Well, actually by I was about seven or eight years old and I went rudder, but you get the gist. Susan then.” was your shaman-like ability to wave an instrument at the sun, do some additions and subtractions, and proclaim, “This is where we are.” The best time to be the sha- man was when you were about 35 miles off an island after a week or more at sea and could say, “We should spot land straight ahead any time now.” Very soon, some- one would say “Land ho!” Bahamas, cut through them to the Atlantic Ocean and beat our way southeast. (No “Thornless Path” when you are trying to make time.) ning storms. Still, it was Day One and to suggest we ditch our entire fuel supply on the off chance we might be struck (and even then I had no idea what would happen if we were) seemed more than excessive. Happily, we never got directly in a storm. We were later to be very grateful for the wooden boards. also had a small fuel tank, so Willard had many jerry jugs of gas securely lashed to the rail with wooden boards sandwiching them on both sides. it was that she had a gas engine, though Willard was well attuned to it. maybe 15 years old, that came with her owners, who knew her very well, their delight- ful daughter, Susan, and a handy teenager called Kevin who was the son of a friend. So why pay me to come along? Well, Willard, although very capable, was having some problems with his eyesight as I remember and could not see too well. Luckily, his ears were still perfect and he loved music and kept a huge supply of classical tapes on board. Liz, quite a few years younger (it was a second marriage), was a very practical and able woman, but she was also homeschooling Susan, and was perhaps not con- fident enough to feel she could take charge if need be. If helped my parents (Willard and Liz Hain) sail the yacht helped my parents (Willard Facebook pages recently. The most recent incident involved a small yacht that The most recent incident involved a small yacht that Facebook pages recently. the crew, who had abandoned her in the Atlantic after landed in Union Island minus back to the only delivery I did where our steering failed rudder fell off. That took me strange coincidences and out of the blue, the following catastrophically. Then, of all e-mail arrived: Coping with Rudder Failure: with Rudder Coping OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 — if ourarrivalwasnotexactlyelegant,atleastwedidnodamage. the sailsflap.Willardhadagoodstockoffenders,whichwedeployedtofull,so vous, buttheapproachwasintowindandwecouldcontrolspeedbyletting dock undersailonsomeoneelse’sboat,whichisalsotheirhome,makesmener- with plentyofroominCharlotteAmalie.Takingthehelmwhilecomingalongsidea how beenleftinthe“on”position.Happily,thosedaystherewasabiglongdock as thebatterieswereflat.Whenwehadlastusedmotorignitionsome- lashed itwelltotheturnbuckle,tightenedup,andcontinuedSt.Thomas. find abulldogclampoftherightsize,sowebentwireinbigloop,clampedit, and wasreadyforalmostanything(justaswell,itturnedout).Hemanagedto was nottoohardtomakeatemporaryrepair.Willardhadpackedhisboatwithgear, strain offthebrokenstay.Luckily,ithadnotfarfromturnbuckleso we lostoneofthelowershrouds.Weputboataboutimmediatelytotake sibly beaproblem,couldit? this wasthekindofstuffadeliveryskipper dealtwitheveryday,soitcouldnotpos- fed andthecrewwereallverycalm.They gavetheimpressionthattheyweresure but itwashardtodo.WewereintheCaribbean Sea,theskywasblue,wewerewell and praytosomeimprobabledeity,orat theveryleasthaveaminorpanictantrum, transmitters. Still,wegaveitago.Noone waslistening. days, bothyachtsandshipsintheCaribbean stillusedoldbattery-drainingAM this wasafairlynewsystemattime andhadnotreachedtheislands.Inthose Willard hadequipped get anyhelp?Oratleastalertsomeonethatwehadaproblem?Thatproveddifficult. and thenearestlandwasSabaabout60milesdueeast,welloutofsight.Could we case, beproblematic. there wassomuchmovementfromtheseas,makinganattachmentwould,in any enthusiastic. Therudderwashangingintherebutmaybenottoosecurely, and ly hadjusttherightclamptomakeattachment.Onsurfacing,Kevinwas not had aholedrilledattheaftendofrudderforjustthatpurpose.Willardsure- and thussteer.IseemedtohaveamemorythatsomeoftheoldEnglishbarges starboard linetotheaftpartofrudder,bringthemupeachsideboat still securelyinplaceandmobile,wemightfindawayofattachingport and kel overthesideandseehowrudderlooked.Ithoughtthatif was pouring outofthetop.Itwasnottoohardtocapitandstopwater.Whatnext? stainless tube,hadsheeredsomewheredownintheruddershaftandwater was life; aleakcanbe.Inspectionshowedthatthestock,whichhadbeenbuiltofhollow water ispouringin.”Notsogood.Havingnosteeringnotanimmediatethreat to we couldfixit.“Therudderstockhasbroken,thequadrantisflappingaround and rant andseewhatwashappening;withabitofluckwirewouldhavebroken and myself justtomakesure.Hewasright.Iaskedhimgolookatthesteeringquad- that “thesteeringhadgone”.AsskipperIcameintothecockpitandtotryfor What couldgowrong? this trip!Thefirstnightatseawasgreat:thetradeswereconsistentandmoderate. peanut butterinastickofceleryandmunchaway.Nocornedbeefcrackerson good andtherewereplentyofhealthysnacks;onemyfavoriteswastospread Grenada, headingupafairbittoallowforcurrent.WithLizincharge,thefoodwas always onadelivery,weplannedtheshortestrouteandsetdirectcourseto the CaribbeanSea,notAtlantic,andtradewindswereblowingreliably.As yourself Norsemanfittings.Willardwasrelievedandwellpleasedwiththejob. much strongerthanwhatwehad,andchangeditall,usingtheveryeasy,do-it- Norseman fittingstogowithit,sowedecidedthatbrandnewquarter-inchwouldbe replace it.Wecould,however,buyquarter-inchstainlessriggingwireandthe rigging was5/16thsinchesindiameter,andwewereunabletofindthesame yachts. Therewasamarina,onemarinemechanic,andchandleryofsorts.The we decidedtotakeafewdaysandre-rig.Backthen,St.Thomashadverylittlefor reach Grenadaanddidnotwanttochanceitwithriggingthathadproveddodgy,so Our nextminorproblemwasthatasweapproached,theenginewouldnotstart, And thatiswherewewere,withSt.Thomasinsight,whentherewasa“crack”and Rigging Repair This shouldsurelybethetimetobeatmy breast,gnashmyteeth,fallonknees We wereatthistime24hoursoutofSt.ThomasonadirectcourseforGrenada, We loweredsailstoassessthesituation.Kevinsaidhewouldbehappysnor- The nextday,Kevinwasonwatchwhenthereaflappingofsails,andcall We setsailagainonanoptimisticnote.hadnewriggingwire,wewerenowin ‘Steering isGone!’ We hadnowsailedwelloverathousandmilesbutstillaround400moreto Continued frompreviouspage Traumerei withtheverylatestinmarineradios:aVHF.But —Continued onnextpage it alignedenoughtouse the cockpit,shouldkeep on eitherside,levelwith the poleleadingtocleats two fromthebottomof ropes fromthetopand decided tostayit.Two To overcomethis,we away tosea? the rudderjustsweep Would thebottompartof OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 nest megayacht marinas in the world. +1 758 452 0185 www.igy-rodneybay.com BOATYARD, ST. 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Con- yachting Rodney Bay a premiere Marina, centers leading for yachting sidered one of the Caribbean’s and sport fi feetto 285 full-service and home acre to a 4.5 boatyard – a well-protected in all hurricane-safe haven. ã ã ã ã ã ã , the yacht- Liebestraum à la crew. Sailing from St. George’s to Prickly Bay with jury-rigged steering Traumerei back to the States, sold her, and became land bound for a while. had a long overhang at the stern and secure pushpit. Had the pushpit had a long overhang at the stern and secure pushpit. Traumerei Continued from previous page Continued from Epilogue Susan told me a little of what had become of the “I now live outside of Vail, Colorado (in the mountains) and suffer through each As the boat was hauled we could see that cracks were beginning to appear on all the Willard went off to organize the first steps for a real repair and got an appointment The Proof Three days after we lost the rudder we arrived within a few miles of Grenada and, Willard had good tools and lots of hardware, and he was good at carpentry, so he, Willard had good tools and lots of hardware, and he was Constructing a Rudder Traumerei part of the rudder would But, you may ask, what use is a single pintail? The bottom We had fair confidence that we could sail right up into the lee of Grenada just as We had fair confidence that we could sail right up into Still, balancing the sails was working beautifully: we were right on course for Still, balancing the sails was working beautifully: we Next we tried the bit where you drag something astern and steer by moving it from sideNext we tried the bit where you drag something astern and Now that we were moving, we decided to try to fine tune the steering Now that we were moving, we We decided to re-hoist the sails and see if we re-hoist the sails and see We decided to Jury-Rig Steering Options Jury-Rig Steering tothat at some point on my journey It so happens and every winter by looking forward to our yearly holiday trip to the Caribbean and summer in the Rocky Mountains. I’ve lived here longer than I’ve lived anywhere in my life (23 years) and my 19-year-old son and 15-year-old girl-and-boy twins have grown up here, becoming avid skiers and soccer players. I moved back to the States when I was 13 to live with my dad (Willard was my stepdad) and go to school. I con- tinued to visit my mom and Willard every summer (by then they had moved from Grenada to Puerto Rico) until I went to college and had my own life. They eventually brought spinnaker poles’ glued seams. It had worked perfectly, but would not have lasted much longer. The real rudder was still hanging in place, so it just needed a new shaft. a 40ish-foot Gulfstar, and came back to Puerto Rico for a stint. Once Willard got too old to live on the boat they retired in South Carolina where my mom still lives. Willard died about five years ago but my mom is still kicking at 83. My mom treats us to a trip once a year (usually right after Christmas) and we charter a boat and go somewhere in the Caribbean.” to haul the boat in Prickly Bay the next day. The rudder worked well enough that we figured we could sail the six miles there, though we did make arrangements for people to come look for us if we failed to show. The rudder worked so well that we were able to sail there without problem. About ten years into that they got a wild hair up their butts and bought as we came into the lee, the wind died. Time to try our rig. Since we were not moving, it was easy enough to install. In the swell our jury rudder rolled from side to side at the back of the boat in a pretty wide arc, but with the ropes tensioned fairly tight it was stable enough. We started the engine and put it in gear. To our delight the jury- rigged rudder worked perfectly, just like a real one. A few hours later we came into GYS (now Port Louis) in St. George’s and tied to a dock. The weird contraption on the stern attracted attention and people came by to hear our story. We all felt a sense of achievement for having dealt with this crisis and arriving safe in port unaided. Kevin and I worked on the new rudder. We had plenty of time — after all, no one had Kevin and I worked on the new rudder. We had plenty fuel cans stored on deck were to steer now. The wooden planks that sandwiched the oar fiasco had taught us used to make the rudder blade. One thing that the steering may be faulty, but I think was that the blade did not have to be very big. My memory starting with a board either we made it about a foot wide and two to three feet high, it. We wanted the steering to side of the spinnaker pole and securely bolted through area in front of the shaft, the be easy, so we balanced it with about 15 percent of the on a plank shaped to be a rest behind. A few feet above the pivot point we fastened was sailing so well, there was tiller, using some old metal strapping. Since the boat no hurry to deploy it; we would wait till it was needed. just sweep away to sea and mash up the whole arrangement. To overcome this, we just sweep away to sea and mash up the whole arrangement. the bottom of the pole lead- decided to stay it. Two ropes from the top and two from hardly create a rigid struc- ing to cleats on either side, level with the cockpit, would decided to give it a try. ture, but it should keep it aligned enough to use. We we were going. But what then, when we hit the fluky lee-shore winds? We needed a we were going. But what then, when we hit the fluky rudder and put our minds to how to construct it. been ideal as a single pivot had a support right at the back of the boat it would have there, we decided to construct point for a rudder, right aft. Since there was not one (As I look at the photo, it one, fastening a post from the toerail to the pushpit. for this. I remember using a appears that we cannibalized some tubular bit of gear and somehow we secured the bolt upward though the toerail to secure the bottom, rudder shaft, and if we put an top to the pushpit.) The spinnaker pole was to be our a big shackle that would go eyebolt though it, we could attach it to our post with of movement. (Had we not right around the post, allowing for rotation and plenty some creative lashing.) been so well equipped, we would have had to resort to Grenada. The down side was at night when we saw shipping and thought it was Grenada. The down side was at night when we saw away to make sure we did not coming towards us. We had to tack while still a mile toll on the stitching. At break- get close. Also, the continuously flapping sail took a hand stitch all the seams fast each day we would take the main down and Liz would that were coming apart. to side. That also might work on a calm day in a flat sea, but was hopeless in the ocean.to side. That also might work on a calm day in a flat sea, ing magazine article. The first thing we tried was a steering oar, which seemed to thing we tried was a steering oar, which seemed ing magazine article. The first a reasonably decent oar using the hollow wooden spin- make sense. We constructed bolted to it. We even shaped the plank a bit. With high naker pole with a short plank to the center of the aft part of the boat, and then tried hopes we lashed it securely steer the boat well; if you could move it, the boat turned. steering. In one sense it did in the Caribbean seas the forces on the thing were hor- In another it was hopeless; to even begin to control it. rendous. It took three people tugging with all their might That would not do. could steer some kind of course by balancing them. kind of course by balancing could steer some our steer- along we could refine Then as we moved well bal- to the article. The boat was ing according sail along nicely if anced and we found she would then we could steer we sheeted the in and or tightening the main. higher or lower by easing way and playing with By letting the main out a long to go on a beam reach. the jib we could even get her Even better, if we got This was a pretty good range. reach we could heft her clipping along on a close come up into the the main in tight, she would we could tack her. It wind, the jib would back and tack, but it could be was a slow and cumbersome her on a comfortable done. We managed to get well To do this the jib was in fairly tight and the main close reach towards Grenada. leech flapping. out with the top third of the Florida I had picked up some American yachting picked up some American Florida I had do when read an article on “what to magazine and not. 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POSTINGS PRODUCT PRODUCT OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 at thattime. assure youexcellentwayonyourchosen course your ownimaginationwillsailinonthe 2ndto Assistance frompersonalrelationships and can steeraclearfinancialcourseinNovember. yourself fromoutsideresponsibilities soyou imagination andverbalskills. towards bringingbalanceintoyourlovelifethrough petty arguments. needs ofeveryoneaboardanddon’tgetinvolvedin in yourdomesticlife,sokeepanopenmindtothe chosen course. that promisetomakelifemoreinterestingonyour clear thedecksforinventiveandromanticaspects everything. bring creativeprogressandlove,whichwillimprove Venus andtheSunbothenterScorpio.Theywill things willtakeaneasiertackinthelastweekas ting thebestofyouinfirstthreeweeks,but tic skipperorfirstmate. ative endeavors.You’llbeassistedbyyourroman- the 16thandwillmakelandfallinsuccesscre- the helmandallwillimproveinNovember. even outinthelastweek.Justkeepafirmhandon friends tohelpcenterallthatpositivedrive. you awayfrommoneyworries.Spendtimewith will makethismonthpleasantsailingforyou. 26th. Yourcreativeinspirationandromanticmood and love. swells, butyouwillfindbalancethroughingenuity they become. The moreyouthinkaboutworries,thestronger your mindfromanchoringinanegativeplace. some time,sofindimaginativewaystoprevent with yourmate.Thisaspectwillbearoundfor holding youoncourse. where —yoursenseofhumorwillbetheonlything ships. Noamountofreasoningwillgetyouany- whipping upsomeroughseasinyourrelation- Concentrate ongettingprojectsdone tofree Get onanevenkeel!Nowisagoodtimetowork There isastrongpossibilityofsomeroughwaters Finish projectsonboardbeforethe27thand You mayfindsmallirritationsbusiness-wiseget- Creative inspirationwillbeunderfullsailaround The flukywindsofyoursporadicenergieswill High spiritsandpositiveenergywillbroad-reach Any staticincommunicationswillclearupbythe Your energieswillberisingandfallingoverheavy Boat-business worriescouldmakeproblems Lust andimaginationcouldblowintogether, OCTOBER 2014 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

KEN DYER

— Nan Hatch WANDERLUST

JANE GIBB JANE No matterhowhard Imaytry,mylifeisjustonelonggood-bye. Some force demandsIchangemycourse,beitforbetterorworse! “sameoldsameold”everyday?Samepeoplegoingtheirway? With I fearmydearsthere’snotmuchhope.Howcanchange?couldcope To settledown,tostayandbeapartofsomecommunity? trytocontrolthiscompulsion,makeitmygoal, Should Iperhaps solongagowhenIwasborn? That glowedtoobrightlyonthemorn What makesmewanderlongandfar?Couldithavebeenawanderingstar That stayingtoolonginaplaceorsettlingdownisdisgrace? Was itthatsomeancestralgenefromlongagohasmadeseem Something insidethatbidsmeleave,thoughfamilyandfriendsmaygrieve, Don’t likeairports.planes,frustration,passports–thereremains So starttheengine,hoistsails,whatevertrialsthisentails. The factthatImustgoawaytosomewherestrange.cannotstay. I’m happyinacertainplace,butverysoon,Ihavetoface Or whereorhowIcannottell,onlyknowamcompelled. Insists thatitistimetogo,thoughwhyImustdonotknow, The spiritthattugsatmysoul,thisenergyIcan’tcontrol I’m offagain!Ihavetomovecontinually.cannotsoothe

P Poets

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OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31

by Lee Kessell

going horriblygoing wrong’ CRUISING KIDS’ CORNER CRUISING Ernie knew the night was the night was Ernie knew

‘ Halloween

Ernie turned his back and ground his teeth. THE END Safe at last, the children sneaked into their beds, throwing off their costumes along Nyna, terrified as she was, managed to croak out “Demons, get back”, over and “Trevor, Trevor, do something!” Ernie managed to squeak. But Trevor just sat fro- Almost immediately, low moaning sounds came out of the darkness followed by Almost immediately, low moaning sounds came out As the children were hungry by now, they stopped on their way home and Trevor, As the children were hungry by now, they stopped on So it was that on Halloween night at about ten o’clock, Trevor, Ernie, Nyna and the So it was that on Halloween night at about ten o’clock, Ernie had to admit that it all sounded safe enough so he reluctantly agreed. Ernie had to admit that it all sounded safe enough so the hill from his Uncle Sol’s The village that Trevor was talking about is just up “Look,” Trevor continued, “All I want to do is go Trick or Treating up in the village. “Look,” Trevor continued, “All I want to do is go Trick Ernie was referring to that awful time when they found themselves in the depths Ernie was referring to that awful time when they found “Well, it’s not going to be like that. This time I’ll have everything under control.” “Well, it’s not going to be like that Ernie is Trevor’s young cousin and Trevor is always Now, you might remember “You want to play Halloween? But you know what happened the last time we But you know what happened the last time we “You want to play Halloween? the way. The bag with all the Treats was lost back somewhere in the dark. Tucked up in his nice warm bed, Trevor chuckled. “Well, that was a bit more than I expect- ed but what a great Halloween story to tell the boys at school when I get back home!” over again, until they reached home, but even so the demons would have slipped into the cottage with the children but for Aunt Serafina’s goats. It’s a known fact that demons fear goats, and Aunt Serafina’s two goats, who usually sneered at such things, were on the lookout. When they saw the horrible evil creatures, they sent a mighty blast of unearthly fire straight into their black hearts, which incinerated them on the spot, leaving nothing behind, not even a fleck of ash. zen to the rock and thought that this time they really were done for. Someone had to do something and the faster the better, and as little Nyna didn’t want to be taken by evil spirits, she jumped up and shouted to the boys to grab hold of her. She knew that she needed the three of them if they had any chance of getting away from the evil spirits. Stumbling off towards home, Nyna waved her magic wand. Golden sparks flew from the silver star at the top and the Halloween demons shrank back but followed on. screams and cackling laughter. All these sounds now came into sight as faint glow- screams and cackling laughter. All these sounds now with fright, Trevor shiv- ing forms springing from the bushes. Ernie was paralyzed frilly fairy dress. But it got ered and shook while little Nyna buried her head in her worse. Green-fanged spirits spat blue slime at them, red-eyed dragon creatures tried to claw at them with sharp purple talons, and wraiths like floating gossamer tried to wrap them up in their spider-like webs. sitting on a rock, shared out some of the food, giving Rusty two biscuits that he sitting on a rock, shared out some of the food, giving so it wasn’t until Rusty’s hair gulped down quickly. Midnight seemed a long way off, for home like a bat out of hell suddenly stood straight up on his back and he took off that Ernie knew the night was going horribly wrong. old dog Rusty, started out Trick or Treating. The boys wore their costumes made of old dog Rusty, started out Trick or Treating. The boys dressed up in her fairy dress black skeletons painted on old flour bags and Nyna had cottages and when the mother and carried her magic wand. They knocked at all the horrible skeletons made the opened the door and paid the Treat, the sight of the barking, but at last their bag little children scream with fright, which set all the dogs was filled with biscuits, apples and lots of sweets. cottage on the wild Atlantic coast just over the rise from the old sugar valley known cottage on the wild Atlantic coast just over the rise from as Sweet Bottom. We dress up in skeleton costumes, take a bag and we’ll come home with lots of We dress up in skeleton costumes, take a bag and So, what do you say?” treats. We can even take Rusty, your old dog, and Nyna. of a Halloween nightmare and it was Ernie’s little sister, Nyna, who saved them from of a Halloween nightmare and it was Ernie’s little sister, the clutches of a writhing mass of evil spirits. getting them both into trouble. Trevor spends just about all of his holidays in getting them both into trouble. Trevor spends just to let him go. Barbados and his parents in Trinidad are always happy played Halloween!” Ernie cried in disbelief. played Halloween!” Ernie cried Trevor Plays Trevor OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 in thebackground. Let [email protected],andwe’llsharethehideoustruthwithworldinafutureissueof What bugsyoumostaboutcruising,andwhat(ifanything)doit? Cruising isalifestyleenviedbymany—butcruisersknowthatit’snotallbedoffrangipaniswithumbrelladrinksonthes WHAT BUGSYOUTHEMOST?

INGA BEITZ Compass ! ide andJimmyBuffettcrooningsoftly OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 now . Zar-Par volumes 3 Cruising Life Marina Caribbean Compass US$8.95 FREE at www.amazon.com! www.marinazarpar.com 200 issues of cruising sailors and armchair dreamers.” cruising sailors and armchair the collection is sure to spark ideas in boththe collection is sure to spark Now available as an eBook at Amazon.com,Now available as an eBook in a very different way, offering new pleasures.in a very different way, offering Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica, Read a preview and order the pieces in this collection resonate and sparklethe pieces in this collection Compliments of: Beyond its entertainment — the first piece had me hooked —Beyond its entertainment Cruising Life: The Best Stories from Caribbean CompassCruising Life: The Best Ann Vanderhoof, author of An Embarrassment of Mangoes andAnn Vanderhoof, author

is a collection of 49 outstanding stories selected from more thanis a collection of 49 outstanding CRUISING GUIDES The Spice Necklace, says, “Given a new life beyond the magazine,The Spice Necklace, says, The Best Stories from Caribbean Compass from The Best Stories www.freecruisingguide.com Dominican Republic Cayman Islands Haiti Cuba Jamaica Trinidad ABC Islands Puerto Rico Lesser Antilles in

OCTOBER New in the Bim Sandra’s cousin Patsy, Sandra’s cousin Patsy, When Maye passes, glad when Sandra left her glad when Sandra left her drunken, abusive husband who never provided for his family. Sandra’s salary at the S&S grocery store could barely make ends meet. with whom she stays in Brooklyn, meets her at the airport and the very next day takes her to a job place- ment agent, a Trinidadian, Mrs. Goodridge, who secures a job for her as a caregiver to two elderly, bed-ridden sisters at US$500 a week. Sandra is elated with the pay and immediately starts calculat- ing the conversion rate, but getting paid the full amount, and on time, is another matter. Sandra soon finds out that not reading the fine print of a contract has dire consequences. Sandra is inconsolable. She tries to get time off to attend Maye’s funeral but Mrs. Goodridge tells her, “Well, I really am sorry for your loss and everything Sandra but the problem is that right now I have a girl from Barbados who want a work bad… Yes. That is the prob- lem you see. Once you come out of a job, it always have somebody to fall in your shoes. Is plenty competi- , by Beverly-Ann Scott. AuthorHouse ©2012, 332 pages, Scott. AuthorHouse ©2012, , by Beverly-Ann

), “intended primarily to speak to Trinidadians and to other Caribbean

But, are those for whom the book is primarily intended listening? But, are those for whom the book is primarily intended listening? It is as if Scott (to paraphrase Vincent Canby’s review of the film With this novel, Scott is holding up a mirror of Trinidad’s society, relating the Antonio drops out of school and is introduced to girls and sex by his wayward Both Antonio and Andrea pine for their mother’s love. After their grandmother’s Scott not only focuses on what Sandra has to cope with, she moves her story eas- Sandra tried holding down two jobs at the same time. It was Lindy Jeeteram from Meanwhile, those back in Trinidad think the worst of Sandra for not attending her Meanwhile, those back in Trinidad think the worst of And so the cycle continues. Just as Sandra left her two young children — Andrea Just as Sandra left her two young children — Andrea And so the cycle continues. “Things different up there, Andrea. Take what I telling you. You have two small Andrea. Take what I telling you. You have two small “Things different up there, Is America She Gone? Is America She not Andrea, who questions her mother, Sandra, on her Who’s listening? Certainly WHO’S LISTENING? WHO’S Is anybody listening? Is anybody listening? York Times people and only incidentally to others, who, when they read it, are in the position of eavesdroppers.” social ills that Trinidad is immersed in. She accurately portrays the crime scene with its related rise in gangs and gang warfare, and the breakdown of family life. cousin Martin, who Sandra did not like him hanging around with. Antonio gets involved with a notorious gang led by a barbaric killer, Psycho. Eventually, Antonio is shot. He was afraid: “The men who had tried to kill him would try again. The day he left hospital, Psycho had been shot dead by police in Tacarigua. There was talk of returned gunfire and a shoot-out but Antonio suspected it was a police hit… he knew he needed to get far away from the men he had been associating with and decided that he would go to Moruga by his uncle Gerald and stay with him and his family for a while.” death, Andrea is taken in by Ms. Barbara, a childless neighbour with a dying hus- band of whom Sandra is not too fond. But Ms. Barbara likes the child and tries her best with her. However, by the time her mother returns to Trinidad ten years later, Andrea is a single mother with two children. ily between Brooklyn and Trinidad, illustrating the perilous effects of absent parents on “barrel children”. Guyana who introduced Sandra to network marketing. “Lindy loaned her the four hundred dollars for the start-up kit and the three hundred dollars for some of the top-selling herbal products. She would owe Lindy eight hundred dollars. One hun- dred dollars was the cost of borrowing.” When she realized she had neither the time to sell nor the clientele to sell to, Sandra wanted to return the products, but again, Sandra had failed to read the fine print in the contract. mother’s funeral. But Sandra has to keep her job. All she wants to do is to improve mother’s funeral. But Sandra has to keep her job. All mistakenly thinking that the her pay packet and make a better life for her family, the money she manages to money orders and barrels of goods she sends home, and save, can compensate for her absence. tion. And I mean I could probably get another job for you but it may not be right tion. And I mean I could probably get another job for get something else it might be away and I know your time is short so by the time I time for you to go back to Trinidad… you understand?” and her older brother, Antonio — to be brought up by their grandmother, Maye, — to be brought up by their grandmother, Maye, and her older brother, Antonio to be brought up by their grandmother. The only differ- Andrea leaves her children was her mother’s encouragement and support. Maye ence is that Sandra went with children. Stay and mind your children.” But Andrea does not heed her mother’s children.” But Andrea does not heed her mother’s children. Stay and mind your in Is America she gone.” These are the very last words advice. “Is America she gone. by Scott’s novel of the same name. They are spoken Trinidadian author Beverly-Ann and meets Sandra with Andrea’s two children Sandra when an old neighbour mother. enquires about the children’s return to Trinidad about what life was like in America when she went to “do a six life was like in America when she went to “do a return to Trinidad about what ten years. months” — and ended up staying ISBN-978-1-4772-8277-9. BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER REVIEW BY J. BOOK OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 lens too. finder. Andmycamerawasfittedwithawide-angle close thathersnoutalonefilledtheframeofmyview- irresistible urge.Icouldn’thelpmyself.Shewasso Come playwithme! with ourminds.Hereyesseemedtobesaying: appeared asifwewerehavingavirtualconversation directly infrontofmyfaceonlyinchesaway,it liquid blueeyesboredintomysoul.Whenshehalted one toberespectedandrevered. ing herloadsofspace.Afterall,itwasawildmammal, I wantedthebeautifulbeasttotakeinitiative,giv- down tomeetherandstoppedontheseafloorwait. and cametowardme,myheartracedwildly.Idove great beastperformeda360-degreespinonhertail on hertailinthreefeetofshallowwater.Whenthe Underwater, itlookedasifthedolphinwasstanding Bella andstoppedshortamerefootfromherbelly. reached mebytheboat,dolphinfinnedbeneath back towardsme.Sodidthedolphin.WhenBella I lether. bent onboardingthatdolphin,takingmetoChina—if wise, she’dhavemetrailingherformiles.Mydogwas She chasedafterit,yelpingwithglee. the water.ThedolphinswamincirclesaroundBella. phin, keepingasharplookoutfortheshapebeneath with excitement.Shegallopedtowardsthebiggestdol- eager toshowthemagoodtime.Bellawasovercome phins wereheretobeentertainedbyusandwe water whiletakingintheunfoldingscene.Thedol- Squeaks andbarksresoundedacrossstillwaters. of roilingwaves,thedolphinsanddogcollided. and metthedolphinsheadon.Inadramaticdisplay powerful paddlewheelboat.Shesprintedaheadofme Underwater, hershortlegschurnedthewaterslikea ran andlandedinabellyfloprightbehindme. show wasabouttostart. dog. Iwastheresidentcheerleader.Thepromised had cometoplaywithBella,ourlittleblackSchipperke sea —theshark.Butinactuality,Iknewmyfriends fins closelyresembledthemostfearedpredatorof have consideredIcouldeasilybecomebaitsincethe thudded intomyears.IfIdidn’tknowbetter,might surface waters,threefinsspedtowardsme.Myheart era anddoveintoElizabethHarbor.AssoonasIbroke mask andsnorkel,grabbedmyunderwatervideocam- bottlenose dolphins.“Isither?” Great Exuma,Bahamas—thepreferredwatersfor were anchoredinthepristinewatersofGeorgetown, hull, peeringintoturquoisewatersclearasgin.We nearby. Hestoodonthesugar-scoopendofport myself uptoseemyhusband,Peter,bendinginhalf bled intothecockpit,landinginamessyheap.Ipulled By then,Bellawasuponusandthedolphinfinned The dolphinslowlyapproachedatfacelevel.Her “Bella, come!”Atmybeckon,Bellaturnedandswam I knewhadtokeepBellaclosetheboat;other- I languished,simplyposingquietlyinplace,treading SPASH! “Let’s gothen!Heloiseisback!”Iquicklydonned “Yes! Andtwomore!” I the berth,Idashedupasetofstairsandtum- Freebird through thetwinhullsofourcatamaran,dubbed awakened withastart.Afamiliarsoundechoed Bellalaunchedoffthebackofourcatama- , a42-footGrainger.Clamberingoutof I reachedouttotouchher—an Hello. and Dog Schipperke dog…’ our littleblack to playwithBella, ‘My friendshadcome Dolphin Wrestle at Play by TinaDreffin brains arelargerthanourown. of dolphins.Herstudiesrevealedthatmanydolphin Atlanta, Georgia,studiedMRIscanstomapthebrains in amusementparks. They claimitiscrueltokeepsuchintelligentanimals have manyfeaturesassociatedwithhighintelligence. human persons”afterresearchshowedtheirbrains say itisnowtimefordolphinstobetreatedas“non- should begiventhesamestatusashumans.Experts recommending thatdolphinsaresointelligentthey sends himintoafury.Nowonder. step intoazoo.Seeinggorgeousanimalsincaptivity creatures inthewild.MyhusbandPeterrefusesto another day. wildly. Itwastimetoendthisgame.There’salways ing. WhenIheldherinmyarms,heartraced were panting,frothingatthemouth,andviolentshak- quite atease,thisgroup!Bella’ssignsofexhaustion engaging withdolphins.Nowonder,too:theywere overwhelmed. Shecouldn’tcontrolherappetiteof I sawthatmytrustydogwasbecomingdangerously holes forcrustaceans. clouded aroundshinysnoutsastheydugintotiny scallops acrossthesandybottom.Shiftingsands by theothertwodolphins.Theywerebusyscouting and melodious.Rapid-burstpulsecallswereanswered dolphin werewrestlingatplay. execute thejumps.Icouldn’tstoplaughing.Dogand when thedolphinsneakedupfrombehindherto directions tomeethereverytime,onlybetricked beast somersaultedoverBella.PoorBellachanged her andwentdownagain.Threetimesthemagnificent sea ontheoppositesideofBella,somersaultedover to thebottomrepeatact,sheblastedoutof plagued her. churned thewaterseverhardertocatchbeastthat snout. Bella’seyeswentwidewithfury.Tinyblackfeet flicked, sendingawet the blackcanine.Whenshelanded,endofhertail of thewaterandexecutedadizzyingsomersaultover up, upandup!Shootingtothesurface,sheboltedout flip. Iknewwhatwascoming. dolphin spedtothebottom,performinga360-degree always remainedjustoutofreach. stroked fiercely,tryingtocatchtheshinyfinthat it atBella.Thedogwentberserk.Shebarkedand snout, andswamovertoBella,wheresheagaintossed dolphin finnedaftertheblade,grabbingitinher where itfloated,andthenstartedtoslowlysink.The at Bella.Itlandedonhersnoutandfellintothewater turtle grassfromtheseafloor,surfaced,andtossedit three feetintotheshallowwaters,pluckedabladeof Bella’s snout.Suddenly,thedolphindarteddown and wildlyacrosssurfacewatersjustinchesfrom her rapidlythreetimes,dolphintaildraggingsideways away towreakhavocwiththedog.Thebeastcircled Lori Marino,azoologistatEmoryUniversityin But timesarechangingforthebetter.Scientists I feltblessedtobeinvitedplaywiththesemagical After anothertwohoursofdog-and-dolphinwrestle, Underwater, Ihearddolphinwhistlesthatwerelong This timewhenthedolphindartedbackdownagain With apowerfulstrokeofherlargetail,shesoared Suddenly thecat-and-mousegameendedand whack —Continued onnextpage rightacrossBella’s OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 at 18.25.50N 18.25.50N 69.36.67W

, I have a beach décor sign , having written 12 other arti- Freebird . Steel acted as a perfect conductor, a perfect conductor, . Steel acted as Forget school! Dominican Republic • Showers, Laundry, Restaurant, 24 hr security • Immigration office in the marina for clearance • Free WIFI and Free Internet • Dinghy Dock • 12 miles East of Santo Domingo & 7 miles East of International Airport Scud We sprinted to the bow to see a torpedo to the bow to see a torpedo We sprinted day for sure. We School was over for the play 30 years ago, Ever since that first day of Nikki is still Today, three decades later, Aboard But then, I felt it, too. “Oh my!” But then, I felt the bow of the boat!” Adam “It’s coming from shape circling the anchor rode. “It’s a dolphin! the anchor rode. “It’s a dolphin! shape circling asked. The dol- But what is it doing?” Adam her back, rubbing phin repeatedly rolled onto The rope acted as a it against the coarse rope. dead skin cells, massage tool, scraping away sending remoras scattering. room to come hollered for Peter in the engine into the sea to join us, and then we all dove all about. After see what this dolphin was underwater, we three hours of sprinting water to collapse dragged ourselves out of the to name the dol- in exhaustion. We decided small nick in her phin Nikki because of the dorsal fin. visitor around our Nikki has been a regular us whenever we boat. She seems to locate encounter her en change anchorages. We often swim, too. route during our regular morning finning by to romp with our little black dog. But today was very special, for Nikki had brought her beau and baby. We had dubbed the baby dolphin Heloise. The beau — daddy of Heloise — rarely approached us unless accom- panied by Nikki. So, as he was more standoff- ish, we never got around to naming him. that reads: to schoolwork.” to schoolwork.” shouted. Caribbean Compass Cruising Life: the Best of Caribbean Compass Tina Dreffin has been cruising with her husband for 35 Tina Dreffin has been cruising with her husband for 35 Amazon.com. cles. You can find her story “Night Shock” in the anthol- ogy years and reared their two children aboard their boat in years and reared their two children aboard their boat the Bahamas. In 2008 they completed a circumnaviga- tion with their teen-aged boys. You can view her website at BahamasCatCharters.com. She is a regular contribu- tor to THE FOCAL POINT FOR CRUISING YACHTSMENTT iiiii Z

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aaaaa MMMM Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Visit: marinazarpar.com email: [email protected] Marina Zar-Par ADVICE FROM A DOLPHIN Have a playful spirit. Be curious. Find someone you click with. Sound out new ideas. Glide through the day with ease. Find your life’s porpoise. Jump for joy! a boat with my honey and I read it every day, forever appreciative that I live aboard • High Quality Sheltered Moorings • Slips to 120’ with depth 10’ • 70 Ton Travelift (30' beam) • ABYC certified machanics • Shore power 30, 50 and 100 amps • All slips with fingers then aboard our steel monohull, dubbed steel monohull, dubbed then aboard our regularly swim with dolphins in turquoise waters clear as mountain air. We’ve been regularly swim with dolphins in turquoise waters clear than the last, thanks to the bluewater cruising for 35 years now. Each year is better dolphins. They still come — up to five now! sending low-frequency sound waves echoing through the sides of the hull. Scallops hull. Scallops through the sides of the sound waves echoing sending low-frequency Warren was lulling me to sleep. So when a busy staccato at night, often danced let’s get back up. “Um, nice try. But new vibration, my ears pricked alerted to the Continued from previous page Continued from “Mom, what’s that sound? It feels like someone is shaking the bow line.” Unusual the bow line.” Unusual “Mom, what’s that sound? It feels like someone is shaking This family of dolphins has resided in these waters of Exuma for 30 years or more. This family of dolphins has resided in these waters of I recognized Heloise’s signature whistle immediately. She emitted a short buzzing She emitted a short buzzing I recognized Heloise’s signature whistle immediately. Just witnessing how these dolphins communicate in a group is astounding. Every Just witnessing how these dolphins communicate in a The cerebral cortex and the neocortex of bottlenose dolphins are so large that so large that of bottlenose dolphins are cortex and the neocortex The cerebral The dolphin circled Bella, its tail just inches from her snout. The dog’s tiny black feet The dolphin circled Bella, its tail just inches from her snout. churned the waters ever harder to try to catch the beast… sounds drifted across the early morning breeze at the bow of the boat. We were bow of the boat. We were sounds drifted across the early morning breeze at the Since we reared our sons here, they’ve known these dolphins since they were very Since we reared our sons here, they’ve known these early on when our son, young boys. The larger female dolphin gained notoriety Warren, tried to abort a math lesson one day long ago. sound followed by a high whistle, then a rapid buzz. Although Bella can hear the Although Bella can hear the sound followed by a high whistle, then a rapid buzz. vibrations are inaudible calls below-decks, I can’t, as the dolphins’ low-frequency Their clicks and whistles to my ears. I can only hear them when free-diving. them. It makes my heart become symphonic music to my ears every time I hear swell immensely. time I hear them “talk”, I feel as if I’m inside the Discovery Channel. In fact, bottle- time I hear them “talk”, I feel as if I’m inside the Discovery keep me hanging on every nose dolphins produce three main types of sound that Echolocation clicks are sound: echolocation clicks, burst pulse calls and whistles. dolphin approaches our boat. used to sense their environment. These I hear when a aggressive situations. And the Burst pulse calls are used for social communication in much like our own and are most common dolphin call is the whistle. Whistles are Each dolphin has its own used for social communication in friendly interactions. Whistles are used when dol- signature whistle, which is like saying its own name. particular individuals. phins become separated and are trying to reunite with “the anatomical ratios that assess cognitive capacity place it second only to the only to the capacity place it second ratios that assess cognitive “the anatomical human brain”. — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 of communities. inanumber 2015 anddistributethemtofishermen will takealldonateditemstoHaitiduringFebruary will begivenuponrequest. supplies arealsowelcome.Areceiptforyourdonation Republic (www.marinazarpar.com). Schoolandfirst-aid or toMarinaZarParinBocaChica,Dominican Ave., Bronx,NY 10464(www.minnefordmarina.com) sent toeitherMinnefordMarinaat150CityIsland SECOND LIFESAILS YOUR USEDSAILSWANTED! Frank Virgintino, developerofFreeCruisingGuides, Donations ofusedsailsandfishingequipmentcanbe The Shortleaf Fig — A Strangler on the Loose! the on byLynnKaak —AStrangler Fig Shortleaf The LOOK OUTFOR… of the Seven Seas Cruising Association (SSCA) of theSevenSeasCruisingAssociation(SSCA) at [email protected] boardmember in ajointventurewithFreeCruisingGuides. As youtravelthroughtheCaribbean,everymonththere’ssomethingspecialtolookoutfor. Catherine [email protected]. For more information contactFrankVirgintinoFor moreinformation Designed to benefit fishermen inHaiti, Designed tobenefitfishermen isaCleanWake Project

charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 0912 0830 0746 20 0702 19 0617 18 0530 17 0441 16 0350 15 0257 14 0204 13 0110 12 0016 11 0000 10 2322 9 2238 8 2134 7 2038 6 1943 5 1846 4 1750 3 2 1 DATE TIME For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE OCTOBER -NOVEMBER2014 ment ofwoundsbysometheindigenouspeoples. matory properties,andthebarkhasbeenknowntobeusedfortreat- but theysometimescauseallergicreactionsinhumans. flowers thatexistintheopen-endedfruit.Otheranimalseatfruit, This waspfeedsexclusivelyonthefruitofthisfig,anditpollinates farther batteriesandtheoldCommandant’sQuarters. can beobservedatCabritsNationalParkinDominica,ifyouwalktothe roots betweentherocksorruins.Aquiteimpressivedisplayofthis rocks won’trotaway,thiscanmakeforanintriguingplaitingofthetree’s ate ahollowinsidetheShortleaf,makinghomeforanimals. host treewillsuccumbtothe“eviltree”,anddie.Withtime,thiscancre- and theleafycanopyoffigmayshadowhosttree.Eventually, squeezed. Thehosttree’srootswillhavetocompetewiththeStrangler’s, it mayeventuallyfinditselfcaughtinanestofentwiningroots,becoming thicker. IfanothertreebecomestheunwittinghostofnewShortleaf, down totheground,embeddingthemselvesintosoilandbecoming a convenientrockformation.Oncegrowthstarts,rootsareextended to besticky,whichallowsthemstickincrevicesofanothertreeoreven this contributestothe“creations”thatoccur.Theseedshaveatendency Indian tree. a generaltermforthesetrees,althoughitrefersmorespecificallytothe it. Otherpossiblenamesarebeardedfigandeviltree.Banyanhasbecome for theislandofBarbados.Thatcountry’screstfeaturesaShortleafFigon tree, Shortleaf Fig,seemsprettyself-explanatory.ThePortuguesenameforthe leaves ofsomecitrustrees(citri=lemon,folialeaves).TheEnglishname, a memberofthefigfamily(ficus)andleavesappearsimilarto ing asthe other treesalsobeingopportunistic,butfewintheCaribbeanareasstrik- and sometimesastheBanyan. This istheShortleafFigtree,alsoknownasStranglerTreeorFig, intertwining oftrunksandroots,embracingatreeorevensomeruins. an island,youmaycomeacrossorganicarchitecture,orartwork: Organic sculptureormalevolenttree? This treehasbeenfoundtohaveantiseptic,antibioticandanti-inflam- The Shortleafalsohasaspecialrelationshipwithonekindofwasp. This growthcyclemayalsooccuronrocksorbuildings.Sincethe The ShortleafFigdoesnothavethetypicallifecycleofmosttrees,and There are a number of “stranglers” out there, and some other vines and There areanumberof“stranglers”outthere,andsomeothervines As youwanderawayfromthebeachesandintolesssaltyareasof Os Barbados (full moon) OF THEMOON Ficus citrifolia (the bearded one), might just be the origin of the name (thebeardedone),mightjustbetheoriginofname 0137 0043 0000 9 2349 8 2256 7 2203 6 2110 5 2018 4 1925 3 2 1832 1 1737 November 2014 1642 31 1546 30 1451 29 1356 28 1304 27 1214 26 1126 25 1040 24 0956 23 22 21 . The Latin name is derived from the fact that it is . TheLatinnameisderivedfromthefactthatit (full moon) 0 1906 1814 1722 30 1628 29 1533 28 1436 27 1339 26 1243 25 1148 24 1055 23 1005 22 0918 21 0833 20 0750 19 0707 18 0624 17 0541 16 0456 15 0409 14 0320 13 0230 12 11 10 OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE3

Figure 1 Atmosphere and star twinkle Figure 2 Comet Halley, the source of the Orionid meteor shower Figure 3 Venus passes behind the Sun

HALLEY MULTICOLOR CAMERA TEAM, ESA TEAM, CAMERA MULTICOLOR HALLEY BOB KING BOB Wednesday, The Taurid meteor Thursday, The Moon will rise at Wednesday, Look for round two of In the News Rosetta, a European Comets are time cap- All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) unless otherwise noted. The Jim Ulik is a photographer and cruiser currently based in Grenada. point, Mercury will be the farthest distance from the Sun. Even though Mercury will from the Sun. Even though will be the farthest distance point, Mercury will be less than brighter because there illuminated it will appear only be 50 percent Mercury will you have to be up early. from sunlight. However normal interference at 0529. The Sun above the eastern horizon and reach 10 degrees rise at 0449 hours rises at 0600. November 5th shower will reach its maximum rate of activi- ty. This will be the first peak of the month. Taurid meteors radiate from the sky not far from the Pleiades star cluster in Taurus. Unfortunately the Moon is also reach- ing its maximum illumi- nation rising at 1650. November 6th 1740 and reaches the Full Moon moment at 1823. There will also be a conjunction between Mars and M22. The pair will be visible in the west in the early evening sky in the constellation Sagittarius. November 12th the Taurid meteor show- er. The actual date range of the shower is October 12 to December 2. The theories behind the two peak dates are that the comet was broken apart by or its orbit was changed by the mass of Jupiter. Space Agency (ESA) mis- sion, is the first in his- tory to rendezvous with a comet, deploy a lander and escort the comet as it orbits the Sun. The Rosetta mission team is working towards a land- ing date of November 11th, 2014. sules containing primi- tive material left over from the epoch when the Sun and its planets formed. By studying the materials associated with the gas, dust and structure of the nucleus and organic to unlocking the history and comet, the Rosetta mission should become the key regarding the origin of evolution of our Solar System, as well as answering questions Earth’s water and perhaps even life. Imagine that. times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and may vary by only a few min- utes in different Caribbean locations. THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN by Jim Ulik , at 12,000 miles (19,300 km) in diameter, may envelop , at 12,000 miles (19,300 km) in diameter, may envelop coma Saturday, November 1st It will be the best morning appearance of the year for Mercury. From our vantage Tuesday, October 28th objects. Tonight there will I recently had a reader ask me about finding deep space Saturday, October 25th This point in Venus’s orbit Venus is making a transit on the far side of the Sun. Wednesday, October 22nd be 25 meteors per hour The Orionid meteor shower will peak tonight. There could Sunday, October 19th a close approach to Mars. Eyes are on Comet C/2013 A1 Siding Spring as it makes Earth, located in the constel- On October 19th, Mars will be 151 million miles from Saturday, October 18th should be nearing peak brightness. Before dawn, Comet C/2012 K1 PANSTARRS “It takes imagination…. to look beyond the limitations of what’s currently known, look beyond the limitations of what’s currently known, “It takes imagination…. to Imagination is not only for children. Look into the sky and imagine what is there. children. Look into the sky and imagine what is there. Imagination is not only for Imagination you might see something that you are not familiar with. Looking into the night sky be a conjunction between Mars and a Messier object named M8, NGC 6530 or the be a conjunction between Mars and a Messier object Lagoon Nebula. The center of the Milky Way is located in the constellation Sagittarius, which is where the Lagoon Nebula can be found. M8 is a favorite target for amateur astronomers because it can be easily seen with binoculars or a small telescope. will mark the transition of Venus from being visible in the morning to becoming an will mark the transition of Venus from being visible in and Saturn are also in evening planet over the next few weeks. The Moon, Mercury the direction of the Sun. passing through the night sky. The apparent source is near the constellation Orion. passing through the night sky. The apparent source is Halley. They travel at about These fast-traveling meteors originated from Comet Begin looking for Orion in the 148,000 mph (66 km/s) into the Earth’s atmosphere. look 90 degrees away eastern sky at 2300 hours. When searching for any meteors, the Moon will reach the from the source. Viewing the meteors will be good because New Moon phase tomorrow. If Mars were Earth, comet Siding Spring would pass by at about one third of the If Mars were Earth, comet Siding Spring would pass pass close enough that the distance between the Earth and Moon. The comet will comet’s atmosphere or sky at dusk. Find Mars below lation Ophiuchus and visible low in the southwestern be bright enough to be seen Sirius then look for the comet. Comet Siding Spring may Ophiuchus for the globular through binoculars. Also look nearby in the constellation cluster NGC 6401. observers can watch for it low in the southern sky in Puppis, the stern or the poop observers can watch for it low in the southern sky in enough to be visible with the deck of the ship Argo Navis. The comet could brighten the southern horizon and unaided eye or through a pair of binoculars. Look toward constellation you will find the you will find Carina, the keel of Argo Navis. In this that Eta Carinae is 100 times Carina Nebula and the star Eta Carinae. Just imagine explode at any time, possibly more massive than our Sun and unstable. It could radiation from the explosion shining brighter in the sky than Venus. Most of the the Carina Nebula is should be deflected by the Earth’s magnetic field. Because people imagining a UFO. lower in the sky it can put on a light show that has some of dust particles per the planet. The comet will produce 220 pounds (100 kilograms) (56 km/sec). One particle second. These particles will be traveling at 125,000 mph Imagine being on Mars and hitting a Mars rover or orbiter would end its mission. the Martian atmosphere. viewing the comet and the resulting meteors or dust hitting some images of the event. Hopefully one of the Mars explorer’s cameras will get and see what could possibly be… and even more imagination to make sure this ventur- and see what could possibly still stays within the bound of reason and known ing beyond current understanding rules of science.” — Phil Plait Even if you can’t see the satellites or celestial objects you may know where they are or celestial objects you may know where they Even if you can’t see the satellites their significance. located in the sky and imagine Your imagination takes over to find an explanation. Is it another UFO? Last month, to find an explanation. Is it another UFO? Last month, Your imagination takes over as a possible explanation. This month, a possible Iridium flares were mentioned to of stars caused by the atmosphere. Stars appear reason is the light refraction the combined with temperature differences in twinkle because of air turbulence this eye or the lens in a pair of glasses may amplify atmosphere. The lens in your near the horizon than directly overhead. When the condi- effect. The effect is greater the turbulence or temperature variations, some of tions develop that cause greater for UFOs by the unknowing eye. star observations can be mistaken The Sky from Mid-OctoberSky from The to Mid-November OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 WITHTHESEA NOTBEING THE TROUBLE cleating lines with a nonchalant flip lineswithanonchalant cleating He visualized easingintoaslip, head backandclosedhiseyes. the boomhurtlingacrossandknockinghimoverlifeline.Heleanedhis gave waytoasuddenimageofhimselfstandinginthecockpit,delirious, after daysandnightsaloneatsea?Couldthatreallyhappen?Thequestion Peru? Andwhatabouthallucinations,thenarcosisthatdrugsmind Great Whitethathadeatenaboatandcrewsomewhereoffthecoastof if hehitsomethingorthestoveblewup?Wasn’tthereastoryabout by aship?Whatiftheboatcameapartandsank—wouldhedrown? he getknockeddownbyafreakwind,swampedroguewave?Crushed haunting himthroughouttheFloridaStraitsandintoAtlantic.Would ity, thenlookedoutoveraperfectsea,sky,breeze. blue water.Heclenchedhiseyesshut,mutteredsomethingaboutstupid- wheel. Suddenlyheimaginedthehorizonswellingupintoawallofraging out forme,remember?” blue water. wheel andlookedovertheside,into steady,undulatingflowofdark Still, hecouldfeelatremblinginhisstomach.Cursing,poundedthe woman followinghiseverymove.Hehummedandsnappedfingers. ing toimaginehissmilingfaceonadancefloorinSt.Thomas,gorgeous Behind thewheelagain,heswayedbackandforthtoaLatinrhythm,try- below, pushedatapeintotheplayerthenclimbedbackcockpit. his back,hecouldfeelcooltinglesinkneesandelbows. oxygen tothebrainwassupposedhelp.Evenwithsweattricklingdown his mouthandtriedtoinhale.Breatheslowevendeep,hethought; he wassurecouldhearhisheart.Hestoodup,formedatinycirclewith despite thehissofwaterrushingalongsideandhollowslapahalyard, he washavingtroubleswallowing,asthoughhissalivahadevaporated;and ever experienced. It seemedasthoughhismindwascallingupeveryfearfulmomenthehad mare, gottenupandturnedoneverylightlookedbehinddoor? the basement.Howmanytimeshadhesatupinmiddleofanight- the wind,scrapingsideofhouse,athumpinattic,rustle ning. Andallthosenightswhenhewasawakenedbyasound,limbin mouth trembling,thenwhenhecouldseehishouseatlast,suddenlyrun- it wasdarkerunderthetrees.Herememberedwhistlingashewalked,his Karloff movie,downthecenterofstreet,awayfromtreesbecause growing upinMissouri:thenighthewalkedhomeafterhisfirstBoris vision, butothersreplacedit,fromlongagowhenhewasakid sea andcrushedtheboatlikeawalnut. a house,withflamingredeyesandhundredslitheryarms,rosefromthe awakened himinahotsweattwodaysago.Agiantblobofseaweed,bigas but itdissolvedtoastrongerone,thememoryofnightmarethathad by steptothebathhouse,acoldbrewinhand.Hetriedholdimage cleating lineswithanonchalantflipofthewrist,thenmakinghiswaystep The fearshadbegunslowly,gradually,onhisfirstdayintheGulf, “Forget it,”hetoldhimself,“letitgo.” “Hey Neptune,”heshouted,“whereareya, fella?You’resupposedtolook “How ’boutsomemusic,”hesaid,“somethingwithabeat.”Hewent He turnedhischeektowardthesun,tryingtoenjoyitswarmth,butnow He lookedatthecompass,thenupintorigging,tryingtoblock With St.Thomasjustoverthehorizon,hevisualizedeasingintoaslip, A of thewrist… worry. Hetookanotherdeepbreathandgrippedthe thought. Noproblem.Won’thappenagain.Notto from hisbeardandtookadeepbreath.It’sokay,he tossed thesandwichoverside,wipedsaltwater drooping betweenhisfingerslikeaDalipainting.He clothes andhischeesesandwich,nowsoggy ing thewholeofJimThompson:hishair,face, sending sprayovertherailandintocockpit,dous- singular, indifferentwaveslappedtheportsidehard, CARIBBEAN COMPASSFICTION respondent inEurope. instructor intheBahamasandCaribbean, spenttimeasaforeigncor- all hecouldhearwasthesoundofhisownincomprehensiblelaughter. a suddenandirresistibleimpulse.Helaughed,keptonlaughinguntil okay now.” der. “You’reokaynow,”shesaid,tryingtolightenthemoment,“you’llbe the sweetsmellofland.Thewomanreacheddownandtouchedhisshoul- on theway,buthewasthinkingmoreofsolidplanksbeneathhim,and turning purple. writhing figurebelowthem. bing paininhisankle. Landing onhisside,herolledoverbackandreachedforthestab- body fall.Bag,towelandclothesflewskyward,arcingintothewater. its aim,landingatanangle.JimThompsonfelthisanklesnap,then mocking thedemonsthatwerenomore.Ininstanthisrightfootlost foot, heglancedonelasttimetowardthehorizonandsmiled,silently uted evenlyoverthebottomofhisleftfoot.Ashefollowedwithright jasmine. Hisfirststeptothedocklandedsuccessfully,hisweightdistrib- towel andfreshclothes.Timetogoashore,timerelish,smellthe forth ontheplanksbeneathhisfeet. eight aroundacleat,thenstoodformoment,grinning,rockingbackand ing iteasethestemagainstdock.Hesteppedoffandtwirledafigure boarding gate,stemlineinhand.Hownicethisbreeze,hethought,watch- ...slow... in!Hetossedabowlinetomanintanshortsanddroppedthe Ease intoneutralonelasttimeandaslowturntostarboard.Coast... to aT-dock.Fiftyyards...25almostthere.Hecouldseeitnow. himself onahandheldVHF,hesteeredasmonotonevoicedirectedhim Then, finally,YachtHavenMarina. shoulders. Hecouldseerowsofmastsnow,buildings,peoplewalking. the pilot,stoodup,anddrapedhimselfoverwheel,steeringwithhis Hassel Islandtoport,RupertRockstarboard,markers.Hedisengaged water, watchinghisdaydreambecomereality:LongBay,cruiseships, of aninvinciblethoroughbred.Ontiptoes,hesmiledandgazedacrossthe On hiswaybacktothecockpit,heslappedboomasifitwererump the jibandstuffeditdownforehatch.Thenmain,rolledtied. whispered, “it’salmostover.” his lungs,breathingslowanddeep.“Gobacktothecockpitrelax,”he across brightvarnish.Hehungfromthegrabrailsandsuckedcoolairinto wood No!Wait!Itwasn’twater.Sunbeams,justsunbeams,flickering water! Hefelltothesoleonhandsandkneesslidhishandover streaming infromundertheportsettee.Theboatwasleaking!Fillingwith thought, niceandneat.Then,glancingdown,hewassuresawwater sea andlongingfortheland,hardstuff,safesecure. moment, hedidnotagree.Heknewatthismomentthatwasfearingthe being withtheseabutallhardstuffaroundedges.Atthis remembered somethinghehadread,aboutthetroublenot bumps growintolivinggreenhills,risingandspreadingoutbeforehim.He with lines,tuggingonstays,thenhungoffashroudandwatchedthe He smiled,knowingitwasSt.Thomas. through thebowpulpit,hesawatinybumponhorizon,thenanother. beneath hisfeet. waving, smiling.AndthedockatYachtHavenMarina,solidandsecure tried againtoimaginehisarrival,glidingintoCharlotteAmalie,people Tampa, relivingwarmdaysandclearnights.Heglancedathiswatch,then nav station,cuppedhisfaceinhands,andretracedtrackfrom seemed toeasethesensationinhischest.Sighingoutloud,hesatat Just thethoughtofland,adock,grassonhill,anythingbesideswater, anticipating thenoonchime,thenengagedautopilotandwentbelow. Lee B.Woods,aUSCoastGuard-licensed chartercaptainandsailing Jim Thompsonlookedintohercompassionateeyes,andthengave Jim Thompsonheardthevoicesabovehim,andsomethingabouthelp “There’s adoctornexttous,”themansaid.“Stayput,I’llgethim.” “It’s swellingbad,”thewomansaid,grimacingatsightoftanskin “Looks likeyousprainedyourankle,friend.” A couplestrollingthedockran,stoppedandleanedover,studying Stepping backaboard,hewentbelowandgrabbedhistoiletrybag,a He shiftedtoneutralandcoasted,lookingforthegasdock.Announcing He studiedtheapproachonelasttime,thenstrolledforwardanddropped He gnawedonapencilandlookedaroundthecabin.Prettytidy,he During thenexthour,hewanderedforeandaft,backforth,fiddling “Finally,” hesaid,“thegoodolehardstuff!” He pickedupthechart,hisbinoculars,andstoodonladder.Peering What sillythingswedoatsea,hethought.Helookedhiswatch, byLeeWoods OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 : The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Read in Next … and much more! Cruising Time: Spend It Well A Trip by Inter-Island Schooner Month’s Improve Your Reaching Performance JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s

. Compass

Readers, , but also on all of us due to the ripple effect of but also on all of us due to , Compass Compass While “it may not be to our taste” to want to deal While “it may not be to our is not a ride at Disney Cruising in the Caribbean While we may see the Caribbean as a cruiser’s para- I’m anchored in Grenada now. There have been a The Grenada Cruisers’ Net (VHF 66 International Now the problem is deciding what constitutes At 2:00 on a Saturday afternoon — the middle of the On the following Monday, on the “safety and securi- The person who called the Coasties said, “Turns out Another cruiser got on and said, “I saw them; it was We cruisers are GUESTS in this country. These I am from Canada. If a foreign-flagged boat came into a So, if your racist upbringing makes you nervous In closing: Yes, be cautious. Yes, lock your dinghy We want to hear from you! But sometimes we run out For those who are cruising the Caribbean, be sure to WHAT CONSTITUTES ‘SUSPICIOUS BEHAVIOUR’? Every word of this quote falls like a heavy hammer, this quote falls like a heavy Every word of we could what Du Bois said If we fully understand CC with it, it cannot be overlooked as to do so is to move with it, it cannot be overlooked the forces that through an area without understanding are in play. our safety is being looked World where we know that must be responsible for after. When we cruise, we way to do that is to be ourselves and the best and currents, reefs and informed as to the winds climate that prevails. How rocks and also the social and feel is a major fac- the people who live here think be a member of the Seven tor that will impact us. To one has to agree to “leave Seas Cruising Association, is a member of this orga- a clean wake.” Whether one leave a clean wake. nization or not, all of us should Fuller, this means to In the words of Buckminster found it. This obligation leave a place better than you extends to those with whom we will interact and to that end, the more we know about their human expe- rience, the better. dise with great tradewinds, white sand beaches and blue skies, many of those who live in the Caribbean must cope with the impact of poverty and lack of opportunity whose roots can be easily traced back to slavery. What we fail to learn and understand is always the biggest risk we face. few cruisers’ boats robbed. Recently, two were robbed sometime during the night when the crews were asleep. One boat had a family aboard, so even if some- one heard some movement in the saloon they’d think nothing of it — “Must be someone going to the head.” 0730 Monday to Saturday) starts with some good advice: “Use anchor and dinghy lights at night. Remember to lock your boat and dinghy at all times. Report suspicious behavior to police and coast guard.” “suspicious”. day — a call came on the VHF: “General announcement. There is a boat with four locals in it. I’ve called the Coast Guard and they are on the way to check them out.” ty” part of the net I asked what they were doing that was suspicious, whether the caller had seen then com- mitting a crime, and if so, whether the Coast Guard had caught them. they were fishing, but I hadn’t seen them here before.” plain to see they were just fishing.” are THEIR bays. Fishing while Black is not suspicious behavior. bay in Canada and had the Coast Guard come and check me out for fishing from my dinghy I’d be outraged! when Black people fish near your boat in their bay, in their country, perhaps you should go somewhere citi- zens aren’t allowed to move about freely. and your boat. Yes, be aware of your surroundings. Yes, watch for suspicious activity. But please, use a little common sense. Every society has a few “bad guys” but the vast majority are fine, honest folks. Really look and think before you call the authorities. Jock Tulloch S/Y Unleaded Dear of room. If you don’t see your letter here, please look in next month’s issue of make a stop in Curaçao and visit the Slave Museum make a stop in Curaçao and visit the Slave Museum that is located there (Kura Hulanda). The sculptures at the entrance are the face of the majority of faces that you will meet in the Caribbean. So much of what affects us today can be traced back to what you will see and learn in this museum. Frank Virgintino, Author Free Cruising Guides Dear human hatred than can well be calculated. We may than can well be calculated. human hatred so as to let it, and write history excuse and palliate and it remains the most inexcusable men forget it; on modern human history.” despicable blot Caribbean, you travel throughout the and the more the quote will become. the more meaningful as to do so is subject matter discursive, never find this impact, that has had a terrible to overlook something enslaved and subject to its not only on those that were effects this terrible evil. As difficult goes to great (1915) wrote: “The slave

' S R The Negro The Cruising Guide to Haiti 3rd The Cruising Guide to Haiti 3rd E M , , A Cruising Guide to Haiti The Cruising Guide to Haiti. U D A , that everyone arriving has to fill in a paper that appeared in the September 2014 that appeared in the September 2014 R Compass Compass E O W.E.B. Du Bois in You stated, “ I was aware that such detail of this subject matter I would like to take this opportunity to thank you I would like to take this opportunity to thank you The word discursive can be defined as digressing DON’T CALL RACISM DISCURSIVE But there again, I move from island to island so often I think my way around this is going to be to keep a It will be noted that nearly every question asked on If only the skipper goes in to clear, unless you already The second is, as reported in last month’s issue of The first is the raising of the Customs overtime fee Last year, St. Lucia with a lot of fanfare passed a Last year, St. Lucia with CHANGES IN ST. LUCIA FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' as it may be for many of us to consider the subject of slavery and racism, it is a topic whose relevance in the entire Caribbean cannot be denied. The greatest num- bers of those that reside in the Caribbean, the distinct majority (about 75 percent), are of West African descent. Notwithstanding that slavery has been abol- ished, all through the Caribbean, it is a part of the history of every person of such heritage. The question of slavery, racism and the lack of equal opportunity are just below the surface for most that have been affected by it. The great disparity of income and jobs is the basis for poverty and ignorance and many times that has given way to crime; a fact that every cruiser is affected by. trade and slavery spread more human misery, incul- cated more disrespect for and neglect of humanity, a greater callousness to suffering, and more petty, cruel, could cause some people to bypass it when I wrote the new edition of for the review of edition Caribbean Compass. from subject to subject or rambling, digressive and even lengthy or wordy. Dear lengths to explain significant elements of Haitian life… Some readers will find this content interesting, impor- tant and thought provoking; others… might find such extensive background material a bit discursive for their taste.” that I may have more of a distaste for filling in forms that I may have more of a distaste for filling in forms than others. Chris Doyle Ti Kanot file for each crewmember who sails with me, with all file for each crewmember who sails with me, with all the essential information on it. Then rather than con- tinually re-entering all this data, I can just cut and paste it into the Immigration form or SailClear. this form has an answer already given on sailclear.com. have the forms on board, it means two trips to have the forms on board, it means two trips to Immigration: one to collect the forms, and one to bring the filled-out forms from everyone aboard back. Luckily the forms have been posted; I give links both to the government PDF version and the fillable Word version on the Windwards updates page of doyleguides.com. Compass Immigration form. This very much complicates the process, just when we had begun to get rid of paper- work with sailclear.com. I don’t mind giving authori- ties information but in this computer/smart phone age, this incredibly last century system of collecting endless written forms, with the same details on them every time you visit, is just so passé. from around EC$15 to EC$100. I don’t know how from around EC$15 to EC$100. I don’t know how other yachtspeople are, but I never used to think about what time I cleared in, and was happy to pay the overtime. This remains true for me up to about EC$40, but at EC$100 a pop, I will only enter during overtime hours in St. Lucia when I really need to. Yachting Act that has been considered a good step Yachting Act that has been forward. Now it is their turn to take a couple of steps backward. Happily they are not big steps, and we can work around them. Dear OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

(284)496-8685,[email protected] 30 29 [email protected],(340)513-4955 28 -30 28 -30 28 -29 25 www.worldcruising.com/arc JollyHarbourYachtClub,Antigua(JHYC),www.jhycantigua.com 23 23 22 –29 andCaymanIslands(RemembranceDay) 22 -23 22 19 -23 19 18 14 –16 www.worldcruising.com/arc andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis 9 11 8 -10 USAtoTortola,BVIandGreenTurtleCay,Bahamas. 6 3 www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 andColombiaHaiti(AllSaints’ Day) 2 2 1 NOVEMBER www.discoverpyfc.com 31 –2Nov 30 –31 27 www.facebook.com/BarbadosJ24Sailing JostVanDyke.www.foxysbar.com 25 –26 25 25 25 www.caribbean-sailing.com 24 –26 24 -26 BitterEndYachtClub(BEYC),tel(312)506-6205,[email protected], 24 23 www.beyc.com 22 -29 [email protected] 21 –25 20 20 18 17 14 13 YachtClub(RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected], 12 andatPinney’sBeach,Nevis www.royalbviyc.org 11 –12 8 5 -11 3 OCTOBER tr fAC rmGa aai oS.LcavaCp eds StartofARC+fromGranCanariatoSt.LuciaviaCape Verdes. FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinDominica(IndependenceDay) StartofCaribbean1500andARCBahamasralliesfrom Virginia, PublicholidayinHaiti(AllSouls’Day) PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(IndependenceDay), FULLMOONPartiesatTrellisBayandWestEnd,Tortola, PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(ThanksgivingDay) PublicholidayinBarbados(IndependenceDay) GustavWilmerdingRegatta,BVI.WestEndYachtClub(WEYC), PublicholidayinSuriname(RepublicDay) StartofARCfromGranCanariatoRodneyBay,St.Lucia Publicholiday inMontserrat(LiberationDay) RoundTortolaRace,BVI.RBVIYC PublicholidayinBelize(GarifunaSettlementDay) PublicholidayinHaiti(BattleofVertieresDay) PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines(IndependenceDay) WoburnThanksgivingRegatta,Grenada PublicholidayinGrenada(ThanksgivingDay) 17thFoxy’sHalloweenCatFight(catamaranregatta), PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago(Diwali) PublicHolidayinBVI(St.Ursula’sDay) BlueFoodFestival,Tobago PublicholidayinHaiti(AnniversaryoftheDeathDessalines) PublicholidayintheBahamas(DiscoveryDay) PublicholidayinBelize(PanAmericanDay) PublicHolidayinVenezuela(IndigenousResistanceDay)and TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com 47thBonaireInternationalSailingFestival.www.bonaireregatta.org hnsiigRgta t on SI MangoBowlRegatta,St.Lucia.http://stluciayachtclub.com Coursedel’Alliance,St.Martin.www.coursedelalliance.com. ThanksgivingRegatta,St.John,USVI. JollyHarbourAnnualRegatta,Antigua. St.BarthCataCup(F18catamarans).www.stbarthcatacup.com WorldCreoleMusicFestival,Dominica.www.wcmfdominica.com 28thAnnualProAmRegatta,VirginGorda. at thetimethisissueof 17thAnnualHobieFunWeek,VirginGorda.BEYC St.CroixInternationalRegatta.www.stcroixyc.com/regatta FestiVoile,Guadeloupe.www.lgvoile.com BarbadosJ/24MatchRacingChampionship.Club. QuantumIC24InternationalRegatta.RoyalBritishVirginIslands See adonpage11 Public holidayinColombia(IndependenceofCartagena) Annual CaribbeanSailingAssociationConference,Antigua. Public holidayinJamaica(NationalHeroes’Day) Martinique InternationalSportFishingTournament. Willie TVirgin’sCupRace,BVI.RBVIYC in Colombia(DíadelaRaza) 5hDsoe h aiba eis uroRc. 25thDiscovertheCaribbeanSeries,PuertoRico. so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREE and contactinformationoftheorganizingbodyto www.caribbeancompass.com We areon-line: in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesendthename and date(s)oftheeventname [email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange, were awelcomesightasourMoody46, WHAT’S ONMYMIND… ‘One daywedidatourbytaxiandweretakentosomegorgeousspots…’ we walloweduncomfortablyintheswell.Landfallwasgoingtobeextragood! breeze andaswenearedtheharbourofPortAntonioonJamaica’snortheastcoast shop’s loudspeakers. got twoitems,letmepast”)andthereverberating musicboomingoutthroughthe tussled withthelocalswhoconstantlypushed infrontofmyloadedtrolley(“I’veonly and eventhelocalsupermarketpitched in.ShoppingbecameabattleofwitsasI disguised anydischargefromanchored boats. lutely torrentialdownpoursthatcleaned the PortAntonioharbourwasasewagepit anyway.ItrainsalotinJamaica—abso- out whatwedid—andI’dpointthat afteroneofJamaica’sdailyheavyrainfalls ing thebill,butwasgreetedwithaflatrefusal.Fromthenonit’snothardtofigure was $5andthatforapump-outboattocomealongside). $30 was“standard”(notquitesurewhere,butthemostweeverpaidinStates marina staffleftuswithabitteraftertaste.Theytoldinnouncertaintermsthat thinking itwassurelyamistake,wequeriedit.Theratherrudereactionfrom the much inthetankasitremoved.WewerestunnedtobehitwithaUS$30billand, the price. pump outfacilitiesweregenerallyfree(ordirtcheap)westupidlydidn’tbotherto ask holding tank.Givenwe’djustspentaseasonontheeastcoastofUSAwhere waste intheharbour,weoptedtousemarina’spump-outfacilityempty our do addupandareannoyingwhenyoudon’tusethem. whether youtookrubbishashoreornot.Imaybenitpicking,butallthesecharges and thereisnosafedinghylanding.)Therewasalsoamandatory$3rubbish fee, (Boats cananchorintheeasternbaybutswellduringourstaymadeituntenable charge foranchoring.Maybe,butwehaven’tcomeacrossthemyet! go downwellwiththemanager,whoinsistedthat“allotherplaces”inCaribbean sense, givenwecruisersdon’tliketothinkarepayingforanchoring.Thatdidn’t idea themarinainsteadchargeadailydinghy-dockfee,whichseemedtomakemore dinghy dockornot.Sincemanagementwelcomedsuggestions,weputforwardthe dinghy dockandfacilities.Thefeehadtobepaidregardlessofwhetheryouusedthe local beersandadamngoodrumpunchathappyhour. playing plentyofloudreggaemusicandamenuthatfeaturesinexpensiveburgers, Marina facilitiesaregood:washingmachines,showersandacheapcheerfulbar majestic royalpalms,leafybananatreesandcolourfulhibiscusbougainvillea. noises aboutcharging,socheckonnoonsite.comforanyupdates. spend intheseplacesanyway.Butwehavesinceheardauthoritiesweremaking empty-handed. him helookedatmeblanklyandcontinuedhissearch,whichwas,Imightpointout, surely peopletakedrugsoutofJamaica,notin?WhenIpolitelypointedthatto in ourcabin.WhenIaskedwhathewaslookingforreplied“Drugs.”Hmmm…. ly andwelcoming,buttherewasalongqueueofthem. wasn’t tobe.Ourrumwaspostponedaswedealtwitharaftofofficials—allfriend- dock. ItwasaFridayeveningandwe’dfiguredweweretoolateforcheck-in,butit landfall rumandalongsleep.Butaswepreparedtoanchorwerewavedontothe Jamaica’s verdantrollinghillswiththespectacularBlueMountainsasabackdrop The passagefromHaitihadbeennotableonlyfortheconfusedseasanddying Port Antonioisbestdescribedasalively town.It’sbusy,dirtyandincrediblynoisy I arguedthatthepump-outhadbeeninefficientandaskedifthey’dconsiderhalv- The processwaslong-windedwithabarelyfunctioningpumpthatleftusas After afewdaysatanchor,andgiventhewarningsofpenaltiesfordischarging The “anchoring”chargeappliestotheentireharbour,sothereisnoavoiding it. The marinachargedusadailyanchoringfeeofUS$12,whichincludedusetheir The PortAntonioMarinaissurroundedbywonderfullyrestfulgardensfullof Check-in wasfree,whichisalwaysgoodnewsforcruisersgiventheamountwe One seemedparticularlyinterestedinthecontentsofdrawersandcupboards We arrivedinthebeautifullyshelteredPortAntoniojustondusk,thinkingofa Port Antonio,Jamaica: and the‘Buts’ The Beauty by BrendaWebb Bandit Bandit , rolledherwaytowardsshelter. andfilledourwatertanksand,yes, —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 TAILS.org CARIB www. itical for conservation efforts. photographs of humpback whales of humpback photographs

at any of these locations (advertisers in this issue , Cabo Rojo , Fajardo in Helping? Go to Readers! When in Puerto Rico, pick up your free monthly copy Readers! When in Puerto Rico, pick up your free monthly ): PICK UP! www.caribbeancompass.com bold Compass Caribbean Compass Caribbean Compass Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… We’re onWeb! the We’re Palmas del Mar Yacht Club, Humacao Puerto del Rey Marina, Fajardo Sunbay Marina West Marine, Fajardo Culebra Isleta Marina, Fajardo Marina Pescaderia Ahoy, of the appear in HELP TRACKMIGRATION HUMPBACKHELP WHALE of tail flukeYour contributions region cr are from the Caribbean INTERESTED see ‘Leaving at www.caribbeancompass.com/ Compass ), where we did give generously, we felt that in Below: A little hard to decide what some ‘shops’ were selling… Below: A little hard to decide what some ‘shops’ were Continued from previous page Continued from Jamaica is scenically beautiful with those fabulous Blue Mountains a startling Visiting Jamaica comes with a warning — take care, don’t go out at night alone and Jamaica, farewell. Fellow cruisers had told us that Montego Bay, farther along the coast, was a nice Kingston was unfortunately off the list. While the ageing Bob Marley fan in me One day we did an island tour by taxi and were taken to some gorgeous spots The supermarket produce was good and we even found tinned cheese, which we’d good and we even found tinned cheese, which we’d The supermarket produce was Being at anchor in Port Antonio was a lovely refuge from the mayhem in the town, was a lovely refuge from the mayhem in the town, Being at anchor in Port Antonio Who knows if it’s legal? Obviously no one cares. Whenever we went walking we cares. Whenever we went it’s legal? Obviously no one Who knows if As well as our eardrums getting a hiding, our olfactory senses were constantly our olfactory senses were eardrums getting a hiding, As well as our Walking the streets we were constantly assailed by loud music and local musicians by loud music and we were constantly assailed Walking the streets Above: Being at anchor was a refuge. We appreciated the delivery of a stem Above: Being at anchor was a refuge. We appreciated of bananas to the boat backdrop to some lovely beaches, but it’s one of the edgiest places we’ve been and whenever we ventured outside the marina we never felt 100-percent comfortable. Walking the streets of Port Antonio, a town regarded as safe, we were often hassled; sometimes it was just a “look” but most often they wanted money. Our refusals did result in a bit of abuse, however, having just visited neighbouring Haiti ( keep valuables hidden. On our second day we met a young Australian backpacker who confirmed that reputation. He’d been followed back to his room, beaten up and left empty-handed after aggressive thieves stole his camera, laptop, phone and wallet. Our Hearts’ in the February 2014 issue of stop… but the weather window was good to head to the San Blas Islands. online/february14compass_online.pdf would dearly love to visit the museum, it was a $200 taxi ride away. Like everything in Jamaica, the price was too high and we were not sure our nerves could deal with another hazardous taxi ride. including Reach Falls and the famous Blue Lagoon, where the movie of the same name was filmed. However, our aggressive and incompetent driver was one of the worst we’ve ever had, driving far too fast and passing in stupid places. I giggled inwardly when he suddenly pulled to the side of the road. The radiator had sprung a leak so we were forced to sit and wait in the shade while he let it cool down before refilling it. The enforced stop didn’t cool him down, though, and he continued at high speeds towards our lunch stop at beautiful Boston Bay. This is where the island dish of jerk chicken was created, so we did what all good tourists do and bought some from one of the dozens of local vendors and sat and ate it while the car cooled down yet again. This time we were hassled by the local population of miserable and sad- looking stray dogs, all hopeful for a snack once we finished. They were lucky; the chicken was delicious but the sausage that came with it was dry and tough. comparison Jamaicans were better off. never seen before. Beware, though, that the famous Appleton’s rum is expensive. though, that the famous Appleton’s rum is expensive. never seen before. Beware, discovered it half the price in Panama! After buying a few bottles we although we grew to enjoy our visits to the chaotic marketplace. Fruit and vegetables visits to the chaotic marketplace. Fruit and vegetables although we grew to enjoy our and the street food being cooked everywhere cast a spicy were abundant and cheap the marijuana. aroma that competed with stumbled across groups of Rastas sitting around playing dominos and smoking dope. around playing dominos and groups of Rastas sitting stumbled across for drug shack — they might sell rum but the customers “Rum shop” is a euphemism in their fingers! all seem to have large spliffs assailed by whiffs of marijuana. This is no surprise as Jamaica’s mountains and hills surprise as Jamaica’s mountains of marijuana. This is no assailed by whiffs is blessed with and the island as a whole lush green tropical vegetation are clad with a balmy climate. trying to hawk their own CDs. “Listen to this, mon — it’s my own compilation, it’s da this, mon — it’s my own compilation, their own CDs. “Listen to trying to hawk headphone at you. as they thrust a grubby best,” they’d say — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 CARRIACOU REALESTATE DOMINICA YACHTSERVICES PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Property ManagementonCarriacou Tel: (473)4438187Fax:8290 [email protected] Incl. 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Jeff Fisher–Grenada(473)537-6355 and bluewatercruising. harsh environmentofthechartertrade well-built sailsthatarewellsuitedtothe for acompetitivequoteonruggedand Check outourwebsiteorcontactusdirectly S.I.M.S. Boatyard,True Blue,Grenada stainless steelandaluminiumitems. TechNick Ltd. welding. Fabricationandrepairof Phone (473)4436500orcallCH16 Engineering, fabricationand Sunday Brunch 11.30-14.30 Sunday Brunch www.neilprydesails.com Reservations recommended Reservations Tel: (473)536-1560/435-7887 Open 11.30-2.00for Lunch Situated ontheSouthSide Nick Williams, Manager Tyrrel Bay,Tyrrel Carriacou [email protected] Use ournewDinghyDock 6.00 -9.00for Dinner Tuesday toSaturday Grenada NEILPRYDE Sails Bar openallDay of Tyrrel Bay. Tyrrel of continuedonnextpage Zac artimer-LeMarin,Martinique FWI Tel: +(596)596650524 Fax:+(596)596650053 Located ontheKiraniJamesBlvd.(LagoonRoad) # O N [email protected] S Watermakers U Marine Electrics M A B L E S W I N D  C A R T E  P D F                OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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right in the heart of Gros Islet right in the heart of Gros A Phone: + (590) 690 221 676 N P D E A E BBAY D Genuine local and international cuisine Genuine SSAILS O ANTIFOULING SPECIALIST COPPERCOAT L Fiberglass + Epoxy & Polyester Resins T Epoxy primer + Polyurethane Top Coat O Time Out Boat Yard Saint Martin BOAT PAINT & STUFF STEPHANIE’S HOTEL SSTEPHANIE’S RRODNEY (10 years and more…) 5 minutes walk, on the way to Gros Islet Village 5 minutes walk, on the way [email protected] [email protected] www.stephanieshotel.com Tel: 1(758) 450-8689 Fax: 1(758) 450-8134 For reservations & information Tel: (758) 450-9792 Tel: reservations & information For St. Lucia GGOLDEN Comfortable and affordable rooms Comfortable and affordable St. Lucia • Near Rodney Bay Marine & Dry Dock St. Lucia • Near Rodney             IGY IGY Rodney Bay Marina St. Lucia WI   Rodney Bay Village Village Bay Rodney Lucia St. Indies West  F D P  E T R A C  D N I deli.crownfoodsstlucia.com W S Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean G Open Mon- Sat 9am-5pm A L F Fax: 1 758 452 0531 Tel: 1 758 452 9330 Tel: Fax: 1 758 452 0531 Harmony Marina Suites US$60 - $200 FREE MOORING FOR GUESTS SPECIAL RATES FOR YACHTIES www.harmonysuites.com [email protected] (758) 452 8756 Tel: OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 GOLDEN HINDCHANDLERIESLTD. WICKHAMS CAY II-NEXTTO THEMOORINGS TEL: 12844947749FAX: 12844948031 “IF WEDONOTHAVE IT, Caribbean CompassMarketPlace EMAIL: [email protected] WE WILL GETIT” BOAT’S NEEDS! YOUR FOR ALL ONE STOP SHOP [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com MARKET PLACEAD YOUR FREE on-lineversion! THIS COULDBE Book itnow:

new ideasw/anenviablequalityoflife. Plenty ofroomforgrowth/expansion& custom centerboard,new Yanmar 4JhJE54hp.Contact: 6 x65wattsolarpanelswithchargecontroller. New standing rigging.StalokísHarkenfurling,new S/Sarch, lines, newgenoatracks,primarywinches,chainplates, 55 lbbronzeBarnacleanchor, newstanchions andlife- the Caribbean.Upgradesinclude:Maxwellwindlass, glassed rudder. This boatissetupperfectlyforcruising IP’s ofthisyear. Newrudderbearingsandepoxy neered. Also added,arudderkeelstrapnotonearly board bracketsandhardwarehavebeenre-engi- tained bysecondowner. The centerboardandallcenter- Rare centerboardtwoownerboat.Extremelywellmain- electric winches. 12’ CaribeRIB,bimini/dodger, autopilot,chartplotter, 2 anchors,allCoastGuardequipment Excellent condition.Liferaft,bowthrusters,stereo,VHF, international yachtingcommunityand/ or amarinebusinessenvironmentwill Red Hook,St.Thomas,USVI•E-mail:[email protected] Spotless Stainless help carryontheseasonaloperation. Spotless Stainless Proprietors ofthishighlysuccessful Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. Makes StainlessSteelSparkle. PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Atlantic islandsoffshore chandlery [email protected] YACHT SERVICES No Rubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush NoRubbing.Scrubbing.Polishing. Brush ON Rinse OFF Rinse ON Brush Spotless Spotless Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor Available atCaribbeanChandleriesor Some backgroundwithinthe are lookingfornewowners. MID ATLANTIC 1987 IslandPacket38’“SaltyShores” For furtherdetailsplease Andrea King,Island Yachts Charters make directcontactvia: FOR SALE 2006 IslandPacket445“Tirnanog” & marineservicescenter Ph: 800-524-2019•340-344-2143 Well pricedat$399,950 eoeafter before Stainless.com Stainless.com . OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 The “East Caribbean Village” will occupy its own tent, featuring displays and repre- The “East Caribbean Village” For more information visit www.annapolisboatshows.com/united-states-sailboat-show. Cartagena International Boat Show 2015 run from March 21st The Cartagena International Boat Show 2015, which will yachts, sportfishing In its third year, the show will exhibit luxury motor and sailing is ensuring our members “By leading the efforts again on a USA Pavilion, the NMMA promoting ten nauti- Colombia will host Nautical Destination Colombia, a pavilion For more information visit The boat show area called the Vacation Basin is dedicated to chartering, travel, Basin is dedicated to chartering, area called the Vacation The boat show sentatives from all but two of the OECS member states. yachts and 90 landside through 23rd, is expected to draw 5,000 visitors, 30 in-water overlooking Bahia de las exhibitors to the Cartagena de Indias Convention Center Animas on Colombia’s Caribbean coast. display electronics, engines boats, kitesurfing equipment, kayaks and electric boats; and demonstrations. The US and accessories; and host boating education seminars a USA Pavilion show- National Marine Manufacturers Association again is sponsoring casing 20 specialty booths. the perfect venue for the are positioned to maximize their exposure at CIBS, as it’s business ties in this industry to gather and establish contacts while strengthening director Julie Balzano. blossoming market,” says NMMA export development cal tourism destinations in the country. www.easyfairs.com/events_216/cartagena-international-boat-show-2015. event will be the best show yet.” event will be the among show enthusiasts can browse charter boat ownership. Boat vacations and owner- tourism boards, explore fractional companies, speak with dozens of charter door win valuable vacation-oriented of boat show discounts, ship, take advantage exotic destinations. adventure travel and prizes, and explore goes to press. It is hoped that funds raised goes to press. It is hoped that Compass Continued from page 8 Continued from Attempts to get the Grenada Marine Sailing Club off the beach and into the water Marine Sailing Club off the beach and into the water Attempts to get the Grenada Then comes our Second Annual Halloween Party, taking place on October 31st. Then comes our Second Annual Halloween Party, taking We look forward to seeing you sailing in! 407-1040 For more information on any of these events call (473) 24. For more information on Grenada Marine see ad on page Eastern Caribbean to Feature at Annapolis Show as the Annapolis Boat At last year’s United States Sailboat Show, better known miles of docks in historic Every October, sailors from around the globe gather on October Full of Action at Grenada Marine October Full of returning clients pretty busy, not only with reports: October is looking Laura Fletcher perform once known as Barracuda will virtuoso and sailor fondly The Italian musical are galvanizing as this issue of are galvanizing as this issue at a barbecue to be held on Friday, October 24th (the eve of Grenada’s at a barbecue to be held on Friday, October 24th (the Thanksgiving Day) will go towards the club’s flotation. stories (Grenada Any boat kids are welcome to sail in and enjoy some spooky sweets, of course! Advance Marine turns into Grave’s End just for one evening) and notice of numbers would be appreciated. or e-mail [email protected]. stakeholders to discuss Show, a meeting was held with many Eastern Caribbean thanks to the Organisation of how the sub-region could be better represented. Now, the OECS member states Eastern Caribbean States (OECS), which led the initiative, October 9th through 13th. will have a joint presence at the 2014 Show, to be held This internationally Annapolis, Maryland for the United States Sailboat Show. sailboat show in the acclaimed sailboat show is the largest and oldest in-water Paul Jacobs says, “This year’s world. General Manager of the Annapolis Boat Shows but with several events going on at Grenada Marine! events going on at Grenada but with several band provide 11th. “Barry” and his Marine on Saturday, October again at Grenada and interna- ranging from Caribbean range of songs, an amazing crowd-pleasing The concert is free! to opera-inspired tunes. tional hits through — Micah Mathura, Andy Drume and Barracuda, ready to entertain you Micah Mathura, Andy Drume at Grenada Marine OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Tel: (784)496-5457 2x200hp Yamaha.US$37,000. 31’ BOWENPIROGUE E-mail: [email protected] Will tradeforrealestate. wind generator,electronics. complete w/solarpanels, cockpit, cruisingready, ENDEAVOUR 40 [email protected] www.aviationcms.com E-mail: props w/over60speedprops. Bravo 1drives.40MPHcruise hauled byMercurydealer, 502 marineenginesover- shower(s), VaccuFlush,Mercury leather incabin,galley, Grenada. Gen-Set,A/C,white speedboat isavailablein POWERBOAT 47’ JAVELIN/FOUNTAIN Tel: (758)4528531 E-mail: [email protected] 198334ftVINDÖ4549.900US 1987IRWIN44MKII95.000US 2001Bavaria46/3130.000US 165.000 1992WARWICKCardinal46cc 2002BENETEAU505175.000US 2003GibSea51160.000US US CLASSIFIEDS DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER @caribbeancompass.com riigLf SG 33 MP SVG MP St.Lucia 11 Martinique MP MP MP St.Maarten 18 Cruising Life MP Martinique Trinidad Crown Foods Martinique Course deL'Alliance 19 2 47 Clippers Ship SVG Caribbean Propellers MP Trinidad SintMaarten Caribbean MarineElectrical 41 MP Grenada Caraibe Marine St.Maarten 16 Caraibe Marine SVG 19 MP 17 Captain Gourmet 29 Camper &Nicholsons Grenada Trinidad Budget Marine Boat Paint&Stuff Grenada Antigua SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina SVG Bequia Marina C/W Bay IslandYachts Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Art &Design Aero TechLab the 10thofmonth Include name,address and numbersincount. Line drawings/photos classifieds areUS$10 PER WORD accompanying E-mail: Pre-paid by Pre-paid by US 50¢ FORSALE

This luxury shellese Center

[email protected] Tel: (784)528-7273E-mail: the markettoday! Cheapest Sundanceron sels, 1992 42’ SEARAYSUNDANCER [email protected]. Contact tophotosE-mail: US$50,000. LyingSt.Lucia. dive orcoastalcruise. instruments. Lowhrs.fish, ator, fullrigidbimini,A/C, Yanmar, bowthruster,gener- large cockpit,200hpTurbo- of Florida.Beautifulboatwith ACADIA 25byAtlasBoat E-mail: [email protected] Hall, St.Vincent. plete renovationatOttley Very goodcondition,com- 2x Yanmar2007,2,000hrs. BERTRAM 28FLYBRIDGE1983. onboard deckshower. gers, collapsibletop, Yamaha. Seats12passen- 28’ Bowen,2x200hp [email protected] 8828/457-4477 E-mail considerably Tel:(784)582- Must Sell,pricesreduced DIVE BOAT42’ swim platform/ladders stereo, deckshower/head, passengers, largehardtop, hp YanmarTurbo,seats20 38FT BOWEN excellent condition. excellent condition. withCaterpillardie- w/cabin, 2x300 w/cabin,2x300 US$60,000 US$60,000 oar nepie U 29/34 MP MP 37 UK 8 St.Lucia SVG MP 24 9 39 Grenada Iolaire Enterprises SVG 33 St.Lucia Grenada Harmony Apartel MP Grenadines Sails Grenada Grenada Grenadine AirAlliance MP 23 Grenada Tourism 34 Grenada SailingWeek Tortola PuertoRico C/W Grenada Marine Golden Taste Trinidad Golden HindChandlery 4 Free CruisingGuides USA 39 Food Fair 12 Fajardo Canvas International MP Electropics Trinidad Tortola MP Edward WilliamInsurance Curaçao Echo Marine Doyle's Guides Grenada MP Doyle OffshoreSails Dominica Down IslandRealEstate Dominica YachtServices Curaçao Marine

Email: [email protected] Tel: (868)634-4934 TRINIDAD TT$70,000.00,ONO. HARBOUR SHUTTLE Grenada. Tel:(473)406-8217 Canadian flag,lying ing andliveaboardvessel. galley, 2helms.Greatcruis- strms, 2heads/shwr&tub, and reliable2xHinodiesels.2 38’ BAYLINER [email protected] with offers.E-mail:matthew. 2013. ContactMattSemark ions newOct2012.Surveyed Helm seats/aftsundeckcush- radio, aftswimdeck/ladder. toilet, navlights,newVHF (installed July’13).Head/ drive andaluminumprop New MercruiserBravo2stern 6LPA-STP2, 315HP,4–stroke. L-10.97m, B-2.44m,Yanmar BLACK PEARLVEDETTE [email protected] extras. US$55,000.E-mail: 220hp V6.Lotsofinstalled condition throughout.2x FORMULA 302002 or [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] (868) 684-7720/634-2259 USD75,000 ONOTel: maran, 3cabin,1head. Light weight,cruisingcata- 41’ ROGERSIMPSONDESIGN E-mail: [email protected] generator, newbatteries. steering/AP. Electricwindlass, els, 6’RIB/4hpMercury,self- Volvo. New130wsolarpan- 41' AMELKETCH1977 ADVERTISERS INDEX Economical Economical Immaculate LYING LYING CLASSIFIEDS 75 hp 75 hp com Tel:(246)422-5370 E-mail: stepgrif352@gmail. ready forthesea.US$7,500 the beachinBarbadosbut 8Hp EvinrudeOB,trailer.On Canada. Sleeps4,galley, NORTHSTAR 25’GRP1977 carriacouislander/forsale.htm www.lumbadive.com/ dition. US$9,900OBODetails: Fully equipped,goodcon- 33' ISLANDERSLOOP hotmail.co.uk US$25,000. Email:ron.dunn@ Marigot Bay,StLucia. ments, newtender.Lying fridge, Raymarineinstru- wind vane,solarpower, including standingrigging, bishment priortoARC2009 SADLER 291985 [email protected] (613) 931-1868E-mail: 11,340 sq/ft.US$125,000Tel: Quatre andMustique. view ofPetitNevis,Islea property withspectacular La Pompe,oceanfront BEQUIA- BUILDINGLOT islandpace.com 458-3544 Email:emmett@ Island PaceRealty.Tel:(784) land, buildings,equipment. ager for31yrs.Complete taurant. Sameowner-man- Bequia’s mostpopularres- Waterfront location, BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA www.bequialandforsale.com views, largelotsfromUS$5/sq.ft. BEQUIA -MT.PLEASANT [email protected] US$45,000. Robin,E-mail: ready tosail,lyingBequia, hauled outandrefurbished, Center cockpit.Recently GALAPAGOS 43`STEELKETCH PROPERTY FORSALE ekn nie Troa 26 MP Tortola MP MP 28 45 23 Grenada Grenada 29 10 Perkins Engines SVG Ottley HallMarina&Shipyard C/W Tortola C/W Off ShoreRiskManagement Grenada MP Neil PrydeSails Barbados 35 14 Nauti Solutions DominicanRep MP Nature Conservancy MP 15 Multihull Company Mount GayRegatta Azores Colombia PuertoRico Mid AtlanticYachtServices Trinidad 6 McIntyre Bros Grenada 22 Marina Zar-Par Marina SantaMarta Marina Pescaderia 7/25 Trinidad St.Lucia 78 Marc OneMarine LIAT C/W SintMaarten SintMaarten Le PhareBleu KVR EnergyLimited Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld 31 Island WaterWorld . Majorrefur- Near Near Great Great

www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com 2 baths,pool.Tel:(784)533-4865 Interesting &unusual,3bdrms, BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT 5001 E-mail:[email protected] 443-6269 or+44208-621- EC$800,000 LauraTel:(473) Available immediately room, opensontogarden. apt has3bedrooms,1bath- large veranda.Downstairs has 2bedrooms,1bath, den on¼acre.Upstairsapt rey housewithfencedgar- Overlooking TyrrelBay.2sto- CARRIACOU -HERMITAGE www.caribtrace.com Grenadines andTyrrelBay. views overlookingSouthern and multi-acretracts.Great CARRIACOU LAND, hotmail.com deep water. waterfront withsteepdropoffto location. Including50'ofsand $10 sq/ftdependingonsizeand to 9,000sq.ft.PricesfromUS$5 access, plotsavailable.0.9acres Court Bay.Excellentviews,water GRENADA email: [email protected] Tel: (784)4951177 excellent long-termrates. cable TV.2weeksminimum, view, coolbreeze.Internet, verandah andpatio,stunning or 1bedstudioapartment.Big Large 2bedroomhouseand/ LA POMPE,BEQUIA www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com & pool.Tel:(784)533-4865. Dec/Jan/Feb, 3bdrms,2baths Tahiti igloo,Rentalsavailable BEQUIA –MT.PLEASANT E-mail: [email protected] son. Tel:(784)455-3822 safe, readyforthenewsea- Private dinghydock,clean& of theyachtingharbor. door toahotelinthecentre Water frontlocationnext RESTAURANT/BAR FORLEASE UNION ISLAND–CLIFTON- RENTALS - East side Clarkes -EastsideClarkes E-mail streetiolaire@ Lots C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages42to44

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OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 New rates: 1 December 2014 to 31 May 2015 31 May to 1 December 2014 rates: New at 1.5 times the standard Weekly rate. and monthly apply rates please contact a personalised us for quote. charged Multihulls are to yachtsto staying consecutively or 30 7 days for respectively. days For yachtsFor 100 above and bookings feet for LOA, of longer periods, up to 32 to up $0.85 $0.77 $0.72 up to 75 to up $1.50 $1.35 $1.28 up to 65 to up $1.45 $1.31 $1.23 up to 50 to up $1.20 $1.08 $1.02 up to 40 to up $1.10 $0.99 $0.94 up to 80 to up $1.65 $1.49 $1.40 up to 60up to $1.30 $1.17 $1.11 up to 100 to up $1.70 $1.53 $1.45 LOA in feet in LOA $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day Weekly Monthly $/ft/day making to dedicated are security hour 24 Bar, restaurant and swimming pool Haul-out and technical facilities nearby links air Excellent electricity and Water broadband Free — — sailing: your to spice little a Add this season Grenada Visit – Call 435 Danny 7431 Donelan (473) on +1 [email protected] email or – www.cnmarinas.com/plm – – – – Port Louis Marina a safe, secure provides berth with all the amenities expect a full-service from you’d marina run Camper by & Nicholsons. Our and knowledgeable well-trained staff – – — facilities world-class of combination a rare With and an authentic and unspoilt Caribbean the atmosphere, ‘Spice Island’ Grenada of is fast becoming ‘the’ Caribbean owners. destination yacht for and relaxing as stay enjoyable your as possible.

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