C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS OCTOBER 2014 NO. 229 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore DAVID MORGAN
Cruising Haiti Today See story on page 12 OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore www.caribbeancompass.com OCTOBER 2014 • NUMBER 229 Bocas del Toro What Bugs You… Sailing to history ...... 18 … about the cruising life? .....32 DEPARTMENTS CHRIS DOYLE TINA DREFFIN Info & Updates ...... 4 Meridian Passage ...... 36 Business Briefs ...... 7 The Caribbean Sky ...... 37 Regatta News...... 9 Compass Fiction ...... 38 Product Postings ...... 29 Readers’ Forum ...... 39 Sailor’s Horoscope ...... 30 Calendar of Events ...... 40 Island Poets ...... 30 What’s on My Mind ...... 40 Seaweed Cartoon ...... 30 Caribbean Market Place .....42 Book Review ...... 33 Classified Ads ...... 46 Dominica Trails Look Out For… ...... 36 Advertisers’ Index ...... 46 Explore ashore ...... 20 Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 CHRIS DOYLE Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com
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Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts Rudder Loss no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Finish trip ©2014 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short Dog & Dolphins excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. or abandon ship? ...... 23, 26 Tame and wild engage ...... 34 ISSN 1605 - 1998
Cover Photo: Coastal Haiti abounds with sailboats and sailors. Will cruising yachts be far behind? Cruising Kiwi photographer David Morgan captured this colorful image
Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore.
‘One love for the Compass! It is the best in the region and I enjoy it from the first to the last page.’ — Readers’ Survey 2014 respondent
Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 &Updates Info keelboat coursesareavailable.Weunderwentaweeklonginspectionandtraining All areavailableforhireandarangeofRoyalYachtingAssociationdinghy ghy sailing,keelboatkayakingandpaddleboardingforadultschildren. the haulandlaunchoftenders,RIBspowerboats.Ourwatersportsincludedin- also haveaconcreteslipwayfromthemainroadintowater(fourfeetdeep)for long-term dockageforboatsuptoseven-footdraft,atverycompetitiverates.We installed a180-footdockandhopetoextenditforthecomingseason.Weoffer turn, providetherevenueforustocontinuefreeschools’programme.Wehave Drive, EnglishHarbourwherewehopetocreateaviableenterprisewhichwill,in reason thatwerelocatedtothenewheadquartersofAcademyinDockyard Foundation, theMillReefCharityFundandBoltiniTrust. including SophieRacing,eSeaClear,PeteTownshend,andthePeterHarrison swimming lessonsformorethan700children. 2010. Inthattime,wehavetaughtover500childrentosailandsponsored animation/animMOSAIC_ant.html www.meteo.fr/temps/domtom/antilles/pack-public/ islands uptoPuertoRico. region, withnetcontrollersfromGuyana,TobagoandotherEasternCaribbean Band) from0600-0800Atlantictime.It’sthelargest40-metrenetinCaribbean name: theywelcomealllicensedHamseverymorningat7.188Mhz(LowerSide Friendly 7.188Netonthe40-metreamateurradiobanddefinitelylivesuptotheir However, relyingsolelyoncharitabledonationsisnotsustainableanditwasforthis All ofthishasbeenachieved,todate,thanksthegenerosityoursponsors Elizabeth Jordanreports:Westartedourfreeschools’programmeinSeptember Antigua &BarbudaNationalSailingAcademyNews Meteo France’swonderfulradarweatherimageoftheLesserAntilleshasanewURL: Missing MartiniqueRadar? For moreinformationvisithttp://friendly7188net.net. As reportedbyKenGoodingsonthe‘CaribbeanNavigator’Facebookpage:The Welcome totheFriendlyNet [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip, Six Crossroads, Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Roseau Dominica MarineCenter Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda advanced sailspossible. the finest,mostdurableandtechnologically 50,000 miles. Our OCEANPLUSsailsareguaranteedforfiveyearsor Chaguramas AMD Sails Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico Panama City Regency Marine Panama Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuilding
NSA in TyrrelBay. had countedflagsfromatleast20differentnationsdisplayedonyachtsanchored comed thegathering,explainedCCEF’scharitableprojects,andreportedthathe choice oftheavailableprizes.Priortoraffledrawing,Harmfrom popular activityinrecentyears,withthewinneroffirstticketdrawnhavingtheir bution toCCEF.Additionally,arafflewasstaged.Thishasdevelopedintovery grills setupbyTantyLizzy’ssonEric.ParticipantswereeachaskedforanEC$5contri- Carriacou localsgatheredtosocialize,sharedishesoffood,andbarbecuemeaton restaurant fortheAnnualPre-RegattaPotluckBarbecue.Bothcruisersand erously matchedtheplayers’donatedamount. pants wereeachaskedforadonationCCEFandproprietorsDaniKategen- a MexicanTraindominoescompetitionattheSlipwayRestaurant.The13partici- Education Fund(CCEF)fundraisingeventsbeganTuesdayafternoon,July29th,with visit www.nationalsailingacademy.org. www.thelodgeantigua.com. English Harbourwithineasyreachofmarinas,shops,bars,restaurantsetcetera,visit ent isouraccommodation,soifyouarelookingforaffordableaccommodationin ing centreandallitsinstructorsareRYAcertified.Ourmajorincomestreamatpres- session withvisitingRYAinspectorsinJuly;theAcademyisnowanaccreditedtrain- The nexteveningmorethan70peoplegatheredatTantyLizzy’sSeasideFountain Gordon Evansreports:AtCarriacouRegatta2014,theChildren’s Success AgainforCarriacouChildren’sEducationFund For moreinformationontheNationalSailingAcademy Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Kingston PJG Jamaica Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix —Continued onnextpage S/V Horta wel- OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5
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m m o o c c . . w w o o n n 758 452 4094 a a i i c c 33 1 45 32 0254 u u l l t t s s . . w w w w w Saint Lucia: w France: Drop Anchor and Escape Anchor Drop Heartfelt thanks go to the donors, both individuals and businesses, for their generos- and businesses, for go to the donors, both individuals Heartfelt thanks week. during Carriacou Regatta collected EC$11,000 This year’s fund-raising success. You, CCEF hopes for continued be CCEF’s 15th campaign. Next year will For more information visit www.carriacouchildrenseducationfund.org. Good Help for Haiti Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. works in several vil- Mandy Thody reports: Good on Facebook, and at Good Samaritan Foundation of Haiti, Inc. can be found ity. The list has grown far too large for individual recognition, but CCEF and especial- recognition, but CCEF grown far too large for individual ity. The list has also go to appreciative. Hearty thanks of Carriacou are most ly the schoolchildren the year. regatta week and throughout who assisted CCEF during all the volunteers as well as donations through the year, amount the significant cash Adding to that CCEF’s WiFi service in Tyrrel Bay, brings by cruisers for using CCEF’s the donations and campaign to more than EC$21,000, during the year-long 2014 total collection to nearly EC$226,000! total during the past 14 years CCEF’s grand Donated items can be dropped off at Arawak Divers the donors, make it happen. Budget Marine in Grenada will continue to be a col- as you pass through Carriacou. the Slipway Restaurant for CCEF’s WiFi password. And lection point. See the staff at 2015 Annual Carriacou Regatta. mark your calendar for the with a primary school, adult education, artisan training, lages of Ile-à-Vache, Haiti, growing microcredit. Please scholarships for higher education, clinics, and a rapidly socially stable, and preserve support our work to make the island economically and in the Caribbean! one of the most amazing environments and communities on (340) 513-2022. www.goodsamaritanofhaiti.com, or telephone Mandy
CCEF
M/V The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s the other way around. The prevailing The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s breathtak- Saint Lucia’s it’s warm and soothing northeast trade winds provide ideal sailing conditions. Yet, ing scenery that attracts the finest yachts from around the world. Drop anchor near the majestic peaks of Petit and Gros Piton. Rodney Bay invites a night on the town. Or choose Marigot Bay for a chic excursion. Must-see dive spots abound, and there are plenty of hidden bays where you’ll create your own Caribbean mystique. Of course, no getaway would be complete without exploring the luxurious side of Saint Lucia through its restaurants, shopping, and resorts. Immerse yourself in a luxe yachting adventure in simply beautiful Saint Lucia. car ferry for delivering these items to Carriacou at no cost, and to Paul at car ferry for delivering these items to Carriacou at no Continued from previous page Continued from CCEF’s 2014 fundraising volunteers. Well done! A significant factor this year was the huge number of items donated by cruisers in A significant factor this year was the huge number of items CCEF’s fund-raising week concluded with the Annual Auction on the Friday after- the Annual Auction on the week concluded with CCEF’s fund-raising T-shirts, and more. While participation in the live auction seems to be declining, theT-shirts, and more. While participation in the live auction live auction shortfall.table sales have skyrocketed, more than offsetting the in Grenada for the collection Grenada. Special recognition goes to Budget Marine Captain Theo and the and packaging of the Grenada cruisers’ donations, to noon. This event is much more than a live auction of donated items. Tables were set auction of donated items. Tables is much more than a live noon. This event items at what- Ours disco to sell donated of Frankie Matheson’s After up on both floors table” of boat the popular “bargain be negotiated. Tables included ever price could goods table; a items; a household and all manner of miscellaneous parts, electronics, sandals; hats,and toys; clothing, shoes and table; art prints, games books and charts Amelia in Carriacou, Technical Marine Management, Budget’s distribution representative for storage. for the pickup and delivery of the goods to Arawak Divers — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Hospedales saidhisadvicecouldbesummarizedinonesentence:“Proceedwithan well astherisks,associatedwithmedicaltourism. Simon FraserUniversityinCanada,spokeontheethicalandlegalimplications,as Beyond Borders.RoryJohnston,aPhDstudentatthefacultyofhealthsciences Agency; andJosefWoodman,thechiefexecutiveofficerfounderofPatients Hospedales, theexecutivedirectorofTrinidad-basedCaribbeanPublicHealth of Jamaica’sfirstmedicalmarijuanacompany,RichardKildare;Dr.James CTO SecretaryGeneral,HughRiley. about marijuana,isgoingtobeoneofthepartsdebatethatwehave,”said attracting visitorstoourshores,andsomedicaltourism,includingthediscussion states andsubsequentincreasesinthenumbersofvisitorsthere. sharper focusinrecentmonthsfollowingitslegalizationforrecreationalusebytwoUS through 19th.TheCTOsaidthatthedebatesurroundingmarijuanatourismhastakena of theIndustryConferenceheldinUnitedStatesVirginIslandsfromSeptember17th — KVR Participating inapaneldiscussiononthenotionorrealityofmarijuanatourism,Dr. Presentations attheconferenceweremadebydeputychiefexecutiveofficer “The Caribbeanhasaninterestinthissubject;the Marijuana tourismwasakeytopicduringtheCaribbeanTourismOrganization’sState Marijuana TourismDiscussedatCTOConference www.kvrel.com www.fl kvr@fl [email protected] Mobile 2:1868363FLIR(3547) Mobile: 1868301FLIR(3547) Fax: 18686722872 Offi Direct: 18683954KVR(587) For moreinfo,pleasecontact: Continued frompreviouspage is theregionalagentfor: ce: 1868293FLIR(3547) KVR EnergyLimited Energy Limited ircaribbean.com ir.com/tt LUDECA FLIR
& ANDIES VAN EERTVELT VAN ANDIES flagship, the wreck isColumbus’famous strongly suggeststhatthis archaeological evidence water topographyand north coastofHaiti. have beenfoundlyingoffthe the vessel’sremainsmight wrecked intheCaribbean, ship, the Christopher Columbus’sflag- among youth”. functioning, andespeciallyso and socialoccupational of cannabissmokingonhealth the significantadverseeffects abundance ofcaution,given wreck asthe tor BarryClifford. said archaeologicalinvestiga- rate discoveriesmadeby been madepossiblebysepa- “All thegeographical,under- More thanfivecenturiesafter Found? Columbus’s SantaMaria Tentatively identifyingthe threats approachingintotaldarkness. sailing intheopensea,youwillbeable toseepotential time navigation.Whetheryouareanchored inportor thermal imagingcamerasareexcellent toolsfornight- police andlawenforcementboats.The HM-Series board alltypesofvessels:Commercial ships,yachts, the darkestofnights. The HM-Seriescanbeusedon mal imagingcameras. They produceacrispimage in The HM-Seriesareportableshock-resistantther- FLIR PORTABLE THERMAL IMAGINGCAMERAS
NEW Santa Maria Santa Maria Santa Maria FOR MARITIME APPLICATIONS The World’s , was ,” has L‘Alliance regatta,onpage11.Goodtohaveyouwithus! Lucia inDecembertheannualAtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC). November 1st. uled tobegindirectflightsfromBostonHewanorraInternationalAirporton winter seasonfromboththeUSandCanadianmarkets.”carrierJetBlueissched- balance oftheyear,especiallyconsideringincreasingairliftinupcoming Lucia TouristBoardisprojectingasimilarifnotbetterperformancethroughoutthe which recordeda16-percentincreaseinarrivalsduringthesametimeperiod. recorded intheisland’shistory.Thesuccessalsoextendsintoyachtingsector, over arrivalsbyairandferryattheendofJulyhavesurpassedallnumberspreviously island inthefirstsevenmonthsofyear.Tourismofficialsannouncedthattotalstay- UNESCO said. now besubjectedtothoroughinvestigationbyanacclaimedteamofexperts,” site andinvestigatedothernearbyshipwrecks. its scrutiny,theUNESCOteamrecoveredsamplesofdiagnosticartifactstodate lected samplesaspartoftheinvestigation. Nieto Prieto,recentlyexaminedthewreckoffCap-HaïtieninnorthernHaitiandcol- former headoftheSpanishNationalMuseumonUnderwaterArchaeology,Xavier the remainsofshipwreckrequirefurtherinvestigation.AUNESCOteamledby has beenfound. and hasnarrowedthesearchfor eral years,investigatedmorethan400seabedanomaliesoffthenorthcoastofHaiti magnetometers, side-scansonarequipmentanddivers,Clifford’steamhas,oversev- also whatonewouldexpectfromavesselthesizeof to itsdemise.Thefootprintofthewreck,representedbypileship’sballast,is tent withwhatisknownhistoricallyaboutthewayvesseldriftedimmediatelyprior raphy associatedwiththelossof The siteisalsoamatchintermsofhistoricalknowledgeabouttheunderwatertopog- Christopher Columbus,writinginhisdiary,describedthewreckrelationtofort. ly identifythewreckasthatof data fromrecentreconnaissancedivesonthesitehaveallowedCliffordtotentative- re-examination ofunderwaterphotographsfromthatinitialsurvey,combinedwith graphed thewreck,buthadnot,atthatstage,realizeditspossibleidentity.Current be. Anexpeditionmountedbyhisteamin2003hadalreadyfoundandphoto- able tousedatainChristopherColumbus’diaryworkoutwherethewreckshould tively nearby.Armedwiththisinformationaboutthelocationoffort,Cliffordwas other archaeologistsin2003suggestingtheprobablelocationofColumbus’fortrela- In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! More than200yachtscarryinganestimated1,200peoplewillmakelandfallinSt. According toDirectorofTourismLouisLewis,“Withsuchanimpressivestart,theSt. The St.LuciaTouristBoardhasreportedsignificantgrowthinvisitorarrivalsforthe St. LuciaRecordsIncreaseinYachtVisitors “The evidencecollectedconcerningthelocation,natureandartifactcontentwill The UnitedNationsEducational,ScientificandCulturalOrganization(UNESCO)says The evidencesofarissubstantial,saysClifford.Ittherightlocationintermsofhow Sixth Sense™
NEW Caribbean Compass
customer partnerships. fi elds, therebycreatingandmaintaininglongterm ens ourreputationastheverybestin LUDECA’s commitmenttoourcustomersstrength- and vibration&conditionmonitoringsystemstoindustry. alignmentsystems,lasersheavetools, metric remain, theleadingsuppliersoflasershaftandgeo- support toourcustomers.We are,andseekto make itpossibletooffer theverybestserviceand Our yearsofexperienceandwealthknowledge Santa Maria wewelcomenewadvertiserLaCoursede Santa Maria Santa Maria STERN TUBELASER ALIGNMENT ALIGNMENT, VIBRATION, BALANCING The MiamiHerald . . Thelocalcurrentsarealsoconsis- downtotheareawherewreck Santa Maria reportsthat,aspartof . Usingmarine OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 The The 6.0 is now reports that an , Cuba is gaining , Cuba is gaining —Continued on next page Directory of Vendors for Soundings Trade Only Today Soundings Trade Only Today Soundings Trade has recently been translated and is available on the web- The Cruising Guide to the Dominican Republic Guide to the Dominican Republic .
with thousands of vendors searchable by business category and country.
The author, Frank Virgintino, explains that even after all his years of cruising the All of Free Cruising Guides’ books are currently being translated into Spanish. The newest edition of Stand by for the release of Free Cruising Guides’ free Latest Cruising Managing Director of Parts & Power Tom Gerker stated, “We were delighted with Managing Director of Parts & Power Tom Gerker stated, attendees at the event also Several Perkins-based raffle prizes were awarded, and Parts & Power are offering Even if you couldn’t attend, you can still enjoy this offer: 26. For more information on Parts & Power see ad on page Busy Summer Reported at Nauti Solutions, Grenada service shop, has hadDanny Gray reports: Nauti Solutions in Grenada, your one–stop a safe passage and fair To all boats in this year’s ARC and Caribbean 1500, have For more information on Nauti Solutions see ad in the Market Place section, pages For more information on Free Cruising Guides see ad on page 33. New Location for Paint & Stuff The well known St. Martin composites and paint shop, Boat Paint & Stuff, has Boat Paint & Stuff is also the exclusive Caribbean distributor for the Coppercoat Successful Perkins Open House at Parts & Power Successful Perkins Open House Islands-based Caribbean distributor for numerous Parts & Power, the British Virgin Marina consultant Richard Graves and Associates is planning a US-sanctioned Marina consultant Richard travel ban, Cuban state enterprises responsible for Anticipating the end of the at Varadero, 90 miles from the Florida Keys, is The expansion of Marina Gaviota US Marina Interests Eye Cuba US Marina Interests Reagan Haynes in As reported by BUSINESS BRIEFS BUSINESS available as a free PDF at www.freecruisingguides.com. It is also available through Kindle and other popular e-book sellers. This 6th edition is entirely updated and includes an expanded discussion with additional charts of the Windward Passage as a “very sailable” alternative entrance into the Caribbean and gateway to Caribbean islands frequently bypassed along more traditional routes. Dominican Republic, there is always more to learn and enjoy about the experience. He says, “My hope is that this guide will encourage cruising sailors intent on explor- ing the Caribbean to include the Dominican Republic as one of their destinations.” Guide to the ABC Islands site for FREE. The next guide to be translated will be the three-volume set of Lesser Antilles the turnout and support for the event. Our staff worked very hard to prepare every- the turnout and support for the event. Our staff worked response from those thing, and we were very pleased to receive such a positive who attended.” received discount vouchers for Perkins based equipment. and November. Visit 20-percent off selected service spare parts during October for details. www.partsandpower.com/products_store_specials.php a number of cylinder heads,a good hurricane season, working on an engine rebuild, for a 76-foot cat, anchorplumbing problems, winches, jammers, a big sun awning service work, etcetera.plates, ladders, also lots going on in the welding shop, plus the road from Port Louis winds and when in Grenada look us up — we’re just across sheds and offer guardianage Marina in St. George’s Lagoon. We also have storage on our moorings in Prickly Bay if you plan to fly home. 42 through 45. moved to a new warehouse. The sole St. Martin/St. Maarten distributor for PPG/ Amron paints has now moved a 120-square-metre store on the French channel entering the lagoon, next to the French bridge. By December you’ll be able to dock your tender directly at the store/warehouse to buy your products. ten-year life span antifouling. Boat Paint & Stuff sells polyester and epoxy resins, mat, biaxial cloths, fillers, accessories, etcetera. Guaranteed best prices for quality prod- ucts! Quantities are customized to your needs, meaning no waste. Cruisers industrial and marine products and brands, hosted an open evening event on industrial and marine products in Port Purcell, Tortola. The event was held in conjunc- September 4th at their facility of Commerce and Hotel Association (BVICCHA), and tion with the BVI Chamber Sixty people attended. focused on their Perkins engine-based product range. official opening is planned for 2015, but vessels are using the marina now. official opening is planned attention as a potential trade partner for the United States marine industry as some the United States marine industry potential trade partner for attention as a the country. trade embargo with the US will lift its half-century speculate whether delegation recently had a small Marine Manufacturers Association The US National island who are interested in learning more about its of select members touring the industry potential. for February 18th through 22nd, 2015, directly after the industry tour of the country to help interested parties save on airfare. Miami International Boat Show begun an unprecedented push to prepare the island marine infrastructure have US boaters. Although there are only 15 marinas with nation for yacht tourism and add 23 more marinas with more than 5,000 slips, 789 slips, there are plans to Graves said. it facilities for large recreational vessels. When complete, intended to help augment boats. will accommodate about 1,200 The happy Parts & Power and BVICCHA team at the end of the event The happy Parts & Power and BVICCHA team at the end
OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 OYSTER, INGRID ABERY INGRID OYSTER, 4:00 — 38 catamaranandaJeannie54DSluxury crewedyacht. guest —allcomplimentary! Bequia (ifrequired),abottleofchampagne andsnorkelingequipmentforeach Charters hasaspecialoffer:Thefirstten bookings willeachreceiveaskipperto and rentersnearlyanywhereintheworld. provider. Boatrentalinsurancecanbepurchasedbycompanies,privateowners duration desiredandareunderwrittenbyagloballytrustedyachtcharterinsurance rental insuranceproduct.Policiescanbepurchasedbytheday,week,orany School-of-the-West-Indies/157728984269469. Indies’ Facebookpage.Checkitoutatwww.facebook.com/pages/Maritime- or [email protected]. residents andvisitorstoourbeautifulislandnationforyearscome. the largestdivegrouptoevervisitSt.Vincent&Grenadines. Camp overtwoconsecutiveyears,which,with60participants,todateisstill Dive MastersandfourPADIInstructors.IndigoWatersportsalsohostedKids’Sea resort’s localstaff,andcertify12VincentiandiveprofessionalsincludingeightPADI Month inMarch2013,provideEmergencyFirstResponseTrainingforover100ofthe Association ofDiveInstructors5StarResortstatus,winPADIEducationCenterthe years, whosecontributionsenabledthecompanytoattainitsProfessional members, bothcurrentandpast,fortheirincrediblesupportoverthepastfour new premises. Association office. of theDVDatCoco’sRestaurant,BequiaBookshoporTourism project onthewebsiteaswell. island ofBequia,herheroesandhumpbacks.Thereismoreinformationaboutthe website, thewindthatblows.com,torentorpurchaseacopyofthestoryabout pages 42to45. and helpyoupicktherightproduct. Opening hours:7:30 For [email protected]) orcall(473)439-1002. Horizon alsoannouncesnewadditionsto itsgrowingfleetinSt.Vincent:aLeopard To celebratetheopeningofitsnewcharter baseinSt.Vincent,HorizonYacht Horizon’s St.VincentBaseOpensOctober 1st For moreinformationvisithttps://getmyboat.com/boat-rental-insurance. GetMyBoat, apeer-to-peerandchartermarketplace,haslaunchedglobalboat Global BoatRentalInsurance Thais RoosenshasupdatedandwillmaintaintheMaritimeSchoolofWest Maritime SchoolofWestIndiesFacebookPage For moreinformationcontactKayWilsonat(784)493-9494 Indigo Divelooksforwardtoprovidingworld-classdivetraining,andexcursions The ownersofIndigoWatersportsLtdwouldliketoextendheartfeltthanksstaff Fans ofGrenada’sunderwatersculptureinstallationwillwanttoknowthatanew Underwater MuseumBookPublished If youhappentobesoluckythatwillgoingBequia,cangetacopy “The WindThatBlows”isnowavailableasaDVDanddownload.Visitthe Bequia WhalingDocumentaryNowAvailableOnline For moreinformationon Serge andStephanewillbepleasedtoassistyouinanywaytheycan,advise Continued frompreviouspage PM fromMondaytillFriday. AM tillnoonfromMondaythroughSaturdayand1:30 Boat Paint&Stuff the processofrelocatingdiveoperationto island ofSt.Vincent.IndigoWatersportsLtdisin flagship property,BuccamentBayResort,onthe relationship withHarlequinHotelandResorts’ Indigo WatersportsLtdendsitsfour-yearbusiness Jason deCairesTaylor. dazzling under-oceansculptureparksofartist Museum nature, andconservation, Chronicle Books.Aone-of-a-kindblendofart, book isnowout: Kay Wilsonreports:Itiswithdeepregretthat BuccamentBayResort Indigo WatersportsLeaves This bookisavailableatAmazon.com. seeadintheMarketPlacesection, re-creates an awe-inspiring dive into the re-createsanawe-inspiringdiveintothe The UnderwaterMuseum —Continued onpage45 The Underwater The Underwater PM till by by OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 August 16th —Continued on next page
in Nanjing, China, providing the youngsters with a wealth of experience in Nanjing, China, providing 29 Jan to 3 Feb 2015
our product in the Caribbean and as such it is vital that we take respon- our product in the Caribbean and as such it is vital that is The winner in the women’s kitesurfing competition was Noortje Derksen; Agnes was Noortje Derksen; the women’s kitesurfing competition The winner in Anthony Mijts, Joost Horward and committee, consisting of Eric The organizing time, join the seventh Aruba International Regatta for Next year, same spot, same or Facebook. For more information visit www.aruba-regatta.com at Youth Games in China CSA Members Represented is delighted that representatives of six memberThe Caribbean Sailing Association ON THE HORIZON… with CSA ‘Clean Regattas’ Group Partners a partnership with Sailors The Caribbean Sailing Association (CSA) has announced the boating com- Sailors for the Sea is a conservation organization that engages rating rule measur- The Annual CSA Conference brings together regatta organizers, says, “Over the past few Hilary Kotoun, Sailors for the Sea Social Impact Director, Best Practices and The Sailors for the Sea team will help interpret Clean Regattas is the perfect oppor- CSA President Peter Holmberg, is delighted: “The conference visit www.caribbean-sail- For more information about the CSA Annual Conference Puerto Rico’s Discover the Caribbean Series oldest regatta in Puerto Rico The 25th edition of the Discover the Caribbean — the For more information beat Lucas van Hest and Sophie Dings. beat Lucas van retained his Pechi Pecachek in second. In the men’s competition, Verduijn came Miroslav. Arnold Lieuw and Frank Regatta title and beat Aruba International was the main van der Linde. Tom Croes 15 was won by Melvin Windsurfing Under The rising Kaffener and Malik Hoveling. in Under 17, followed by Sam trophy winner 20 competi- battled in the Under and Nick van den Eerenbeemt stars Ethan Westra third place. and Willem ten Ham took tion, Ethan won sailors recognize More and more great feedback from participants. Hagedoorn, got Regatta: it’s all about sailing. the goal of the Aruba International on the Aruban waters. even more action and fun Summer Youth Olympic Games, held countries sailed at the Second that will be invaluable to them in all of their future endeavours, not just in sports. CSAthat will be invaluable to them at the Youth Olympic Games were Rhone Kirbymember yacht club representatives van den Eerenbeemt (Aruba), Samuel Morrell (British Virgin(Antigua & Barbuda), Mack (Dominican Republic), Lucas Miranda MartinezIslands), Celeste Lugtmeijer Cathelier and Scott McKenzie (US Virgin Islands). The CSA con- (Puerto Rico), and Paige Clarke “You have made the Caribbean region and allgratulates these talented athletes: member countries very proud.” from October 24th through for the Sea for the Annual CSA Conference taking place 26th in Antigua. the Sea is working with the munity. Equal parts education and outreach, Sailors for Regattas program through- Caribbean Sailing Association to implement the Clean out the region. from around the ers, yacht club representatives and other sailing specialists to work with the Caribbean, offering Sailors for the Sea the perfect opportunity event. region on implementing sustainable practices in each organizers in the years, Sailors for the Sea has worked with many regatta events as Clean Caribbean to operate and certify environmentally friendly the CSA to further these Regattas. Based on this work, we have joined forces with running Clean Regattas, and efforts, supply regattas with items that will aid them in believe the conference will support local NGOs and regattas working together. We move the needle forward on be an ideal place to bring these efforts together and improving ocean health.” based on their prior give advice on implementing these environmental standards will help organizers work experiences at other regattas around the world. The session to their attention available through guidelines, identify tools to help them, and bring funding to assist in achieving clean regatta status. and the forum can tunity to bring together the key players in Caribbean regattas organizers operate. The envi- be used as an opportunity to challenge the way that ronment natural resource, the ocean. sibility for our events and their impact on our greatest us further towards sus- We welcome the support from Sailors for the Sea in moving benefits throughout tainability and look forward to sharing the resulting year-round the region.” ing.com. To learn more about Sailors for the Sea visit www.sailorsforthesea.org. by Ponce Yacht & — will be held October 31st through November 2nd, hosted Puerto Rico and the Fishing Club. The PY&FC and its sponsors offer sailors from activities, this year fea- Caribbean three days of sailing competition and shoreside be competing. turing three sailing areas in which different classes will visit www.ponceyachtandfishingclub.com. through 28th www.grenadasailingweek.com www.grenadasailingweek.com JOOST HORWARD FOR ARUBA INTERNATIONAL REGATTA with captain
Sunbelt Realty
nrnada! i Ge i with captain Winfried Merkies Venus Callipyge
Melody i ip ip i [email protected] with captain Remco van Dortmondt won Remco van Dortmondt won with captain
skippered by Javier Galdo, was dismasted, but skippered by Javier Galdo, was dismasted, but Spceu t Chipi, , a one-off sailed by regatta founders Eric and Anita Mijts and , a one-off sailed by regatta founders Eric and Anita Mijts Sunbelt Realty Dash Sunbelt Realty with captain Werner Haan was second and the Aruban team of with captain Werner Haan was second and the Aruban Eva Luna a Moore 24 with captain Maurice Hagedoorn, finished third. In the a Moore 24 with captain Maurice Hagedoorn, finished Nawati
a J/35 from Curaçao, beat the competition in the Racing Class; the Beneteau a J/35 from Curaçao, beat the competition in the Racing First place in the Beach Cat Class went to father-and-son duo Rob and Sil Grijpma, First place in the Beach Cat Class went to father-and-son The sailing conditions were rough, with winds that started at around 20 knots on at around 20 knots on The sailing conditions were rough, with winds that started ‘Unforgettable’ Aruba International Regatta ‘Unforgettable’ Veteran contender tactical racing where par- The upwind–downwind courses of six miles ensured fast
Despite strong winds that required effort — not only to win the races but also to Despite strong winds that required to 124 participants, ranging from young Optimist sailors, The overall event attracted REGATTA NEWS REGATTA came in second and third respectively. Sil’s mother) and Henk who outwitted the competition of Frances Grijpma (yep, Frank van Kan. In the Sunfish Steenbergen. Third place was for Patrick Melchiors and the class ahead of Robbie Class, Richard van der Wal, the Aruban champion, won II Class, Alexander van Ferron from St. Maarten and Randy Brown. In the Optimist der Velde finished ahead of Vivian Hankart and Tijn Hartmans. The Optimist I Class was won by Jort Hartmans; Luna Upegui and Enric Braamskamp were second and third respectively. The youngest Optimist sailing class was won by Feike Benega, who Hans van der Straaten and the Jeanneau 34 their crew, took first place and finished second overall. The strongest competition in their crew, took first place and finished second overall. Open Class came from Curaçao: the Defender 29 Ocean 505, Open Class, the regatta, but not to Aruba. It is a traditional pastime in which the skippers trim the regatta, but not to Aruba. It is a traditional pastime add color and tradition to the their 30-, 35- and 40-inch boats minutely for races that senior participants in the regatta. Fourteen micro-boat captains, some of the more regatta, participated with several boats each. up to 38 knots on the Sunday the Saturday morning, building to 28 knots with gusts afternoon. One yacht, the nobody was harmed and thanks to the good seamanship of race director of race director nobody was harmed and thanks to the good seamanship soon towed back to the Anthony Hagedoorn and Captain Galdo the boat was lead boat of the Beach Cat regatta beach. Owing to a navigation mishap in the Four boats damaged Class, the full class overshot a buoy and hit the shallows. in the races. their rudders, and another beach cat lost its rudder later and deal with wind ticipants had to dodge currents and changing wave patterns, Cup winner shifts and variable wind speeds. Overall Budget Marine Dash, Oceanis 46 the Budget Marine Cup in the sixth edition of the Aruba International Regatta. of the Aruba International Cup in the sixth edition the Budget Marine August 16th during the weekend of competed for the award Twenty-eight teams of Oranjestad, Aruba. Beach and in the harbour and 17th at Surfside the most successful edition of this regatta ever. keep safe — participants enjoyed in combination with great ambiance on shore The challenging sailing conditions exposition made sure that hundreds of sailing enthusi- and a beautiful self-built-boat from Curaçao called it, “A weekend I’ll never forget”. asts had, as one participant and yachts, plus kitesurfers, windsurfers and micro- those on Sunfish, beach cats to sails on the water. The micro-boat competition is new boats, resulting in over 100 OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 that allparticipantswillrememberwithpleasureandwanttoreturnthefol- aguru andFKG,theaimoforganizersistocreateacompetitiveyetfunregatta years ago,hopesitwillbethebestoneyet. who tookovertherunningofCoursedeL’AlliancefromMarinaFortLouistwo gamate, cancel,divide,subdivideorrearrangeclassesatitssolediscretion. designs, Melges24andFigaro2.TheOrganizingAuthorityreservestherighttoamal- with aMulti-2014rating.ScoringwillbeextractedforClass8andSurpriseasone- ing monohulls(RacingClass)withaCSArating,andcruisingmultihulls(Multi fleet of50boatsisnotuncommon. day eventthatattractskeensailorsfromAntigua,Martiniqueandfartherafield.A de SacMarinandBaieGosier,Guadeloupe.Thisisahighlycompetitivethree- visit [email protected]. Games occuronlyeveryfouryears.TheCDCwillbeheldnextyear. to 30th,atwhichanumberofCaribbeancountrieswillbeparticipating.TheCAC flict withtheCentralAmerican&CaribbeanGames(CACGames),November15th Championships 2014(CDC),scheduledforNovember14thto16th.Thedatescon- — With sponsorsthatincludeIGY,MarinaFortLouis,St.MartinYachtCharters,regatt- The CoursedeL’Allianceisasmall,butwell-lovedregattathattakesplaceeach Fun Multi-IslandCoursedeL’Alliance For moreinformationvisitwww.triskellcup.com. There willbeclassesforcruisingmonohulls(CoastalClass)withanOsirisrating,rac- The TriskellCupRegatta2014willrunfromNovember8ththrough10thatPetitCul Guadeloupe’s TriskellCup2014 For moreinformation The CaribbeanSailingAssociationhashadtocanceltheDinghy Caribbean DinghyChampionships2014Cancelled Continued frompreviouspage Maarten YachtClub, 30th, andtheSint through November November 28th place from 11th edition,taking of event! It’s simplythattype again, andagain. to doitagain,and regatta you’llwant participated inthis that onceyouhave and St.Martin. St. Barths,Anguilla tries ofSt.Maarten, neighboring coun- year unitingthe This yearwillbeits Local sailorssay England andofcourse,St.Lucia,havealreadyflaggeduptheirinterest. 29th and30th,teamsfromMartinique,Barbados,Grenada,St.Maarten, encouraging earlyapplications,whichmeritaten-percentdiscountofftheentryfee. from Barbadosareexpectedtoparticipate.Overthenextweeks,organizerswillbe Class boats,uniquetotheFrenchislandandsimilarJ/24.UpsixJ/24crews base ofparticipantsinMartinique,whichisexpectedtosendupeightSurprise key sponsor. 28th through30th.Forthethirdyearrunning,IGYRodneyBayMarinawillbea ing ofthepopulareventonCSAcalendar.Thisyear’sdatesareNovember roster ofcompetitivesailingteamssignupfortheSt.LuciaYachtClub’sthirdhost- contact [email protected]. of fun! (of course)aboutsailing,andlastbutcertainlynotleastitishavingfun.Alot es andthesimilaritiesbetweenSt.Martin,Barths,AnguillaMaarten,itis (Well, fairlyrelaxed,dependingonwhichboatyouareon.) experience thefamousAnguillahospitality:morefunandundoubtedlyrevelry. Anguilla. Hereagaintheycometogetherforthedailyprizegivingeventandgetto revelry andgreatatmospherethatisSt.Barths. day areprofessionallyhandledineveryway. Paul Millerofregattaguru,makessurethatthestarts,finishesandcourseforeach gather togetherinSimpsonBayforthestart.Theraceofficerandchieforganizer, environment. OnFridaymorning,November28th,theracebeginsasallcompetitors in FrenchSt.Martin,whichbringstogethertheparticipantsarelaxedandsocial crew forthecomingseason. gives participantstheopportunitytoblowcobwebsawayandpreparetheir lowing year!ItalsohelpsmarkthestartofraceseasoninCaribbeanand and Bequia,wheretheywonthe2013EasterRegatta. team, agesrangingfrom15to28,wasablecompeteinMartinique,Barbados financial supportoftheluxuryresort,alongwithIGYRodneyBayMarina,J/24 sorship. AndreisaformerJ/24sailor,and took thehelmandapproachedViceroySugarBeachGMAndreBoersmaforspon- Blonde Attitude Stephanie Devaux-Lovell,whonicknamedthe24-footbrightorangekeelboat phy forthetwopreviousyears,firstbyafemaleteamskipperedOlympichopeful the localJ/24ownedbyCharlesDevaux,hasbeencrewedtoMangoBowltro- Five classeswillparticipateinracesoffReduitBeachRodneyBayonNovember The firsttwoyearsofSt.Lucia’sinternationalsailingeventhaveproducedastrong Dee Lundy-Charlesreports:TheMangoBowlRegatta2014isgatheringwayasa St. Lucia’sMangoBowlSetforNovember For moreinformationseeadonpage11. If youwouldliketotakepartinthistrulyCaribbeanevent This eventisnotallabouttheprizes.Theregattafriendship,differenc- The finalprizegivingisheldattheSt.MaartenYachtClubonSundayafternoon. Sunday, DayThree,isthelastdayandhereseesarelaxedsailbacktoSt.Maarten. Saturday seesDayTwooftheregattaandsailorswillthistimeheadforidyllic Friday eveninginSt.Barthsisalwaysagreatdealoffunwiththedailyprizegiving, It startswitharegistration‘event’,thedaybeforeregatta,atMarinaFortLouis . Lastyearamalecrewskipperedby24-year-oldFredricSweeney Sugar BeachAttitude —Continued onnextpage wasborn.Withthe Attitude , OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 (RP78) took home (RP78) took home Idea and Monster Project was 18 seconds short of a new record. Records in vari- short of a new record. Records was 18 seconds Balearia The signature event, the 60-nautical-mile Round Barbados Race, takes place on Round Barbados Race, takes event, the 60-nautical-mile The signature Complimentary berthing for competing yachts is available in the historic Inner Basin of is available in the historic berthing for competing yachts Complimentary of offshore racing, the 300-nautical-mile Ocean For those who love the thrill you to the Barbados Cruising Club in January 2015 We look forward to welcoming follow us For more information visit www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com, See ad on page 10. South Grenada Regatta Discontinued of the South Grenada Regatta has announced the per- The Organizing Committee Grenada Regatta was held along the south coast of Launched in 2009, the South racing in Grenada over the Although happy to have supported international yacht all of their race partici- The South Grenada Regatta Committee wishes to thank For more information, contact (473) 444-2400. Picturesque Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon will again provide an ideal Picturesque Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon will again provide an ideal Second and final host venue will be party centre Prickly Bay Marina, also a full ser- For more information see ad on page 9. Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week 2015 at our host marina venues Ruth Lund reports: Book your place on the start line and Authority, Mount Gay Rum, With loyal sponsors Island Water World, Grenada Tourism wet and dry committees A great team of officials is already committed and the J/24 Class, and local handicap classes for monohulls and non-CSA-rated boats. monohulls and non-CSA-rated local handicap classes for J/24 Class, and Winning one goal: to break records. put simply, one day, one race, January 21st; skipper’s weight Record will win their an existing Round Barbados yachts that break Extra Old. In 2014, both in Mount Gay the big prize, while the big prize, that can win. just the large race boats set based on LOA — it’s not ous classes are this January will be racing again Charles Hunte’s windsurfer, Our smallest “craft”, overseas. some opposition from and would welcome The Radisson Aquatica Resort, located adjacent to thethe Careenage, Bridgetown. Club, will offer discounted rates to competitors andhost club, the Barbados Cruising their families. the final race in our series and leaves you perfectly posi- Passage Race to Antigua is of the Caribbean racing circuit. tioned to take part in the rest cap from the home of Mount Gay Rum. where you’ll earn your red Round Barbados Race) on Facebook (Mount Gay Rum or e-mail [email protected]. their annual sailing regatta. manent discontinuation of March each year. In addition to competitive fleet and Grenada in February and/or wide range of water and shore activities, including live match racing, it featured a announcement to cancel the regatta has come as a musical performances. The in March of this year, was one surprise, especially since the event’s sixth edition, held of the most successful to date. and Dieter Burkhalter, who years, South Grenada Regatta founders Jana Caniga Hotel, now plan to concen- also own Grenada’s Le Phare Bleu Marina & Boutique of the music industry in trate on one of their other passions: the development worked with Grenada Grenada. Dieter, an accomplished musician, has for years Bleu as well as their signa- musicians, organizing live music performances at Le Phare also become involved in the ture “floating” dinghy concerts. Jana and Dieter have to promote Grenadian musi- development of a new music event that has potential was recently held at Le cians as well as tourism on the island. ‘Live…On The Beach’ Best Original Song. It was the Phare Bleu where five Grenadian bands competed for newly formed non-profit first event of its kind in Grenada, and the initiative of a and Jana), to encourage organization, Music & Beyond (spearheaded by Dieter to a new market of listeners. local bands to write original songs and gain exposure dedication and com- pants, sponsors, supporters and volunteers for their steadfast mitment over the years. arrival venue with its excellent facilities and services. In January, St. George’s will arrival venue with its excellent facilities and services. In January, St. George’s will be busy with the RORC Transatlantic Rally yachts and Grenada Billfish Tournament boats, so GSW participants are encouraged to confirm their dock space ASAP by contacting [email protected] or (473) 435-7431 to make their booking. vice marina with dock space and moorings. A water taxi will be available to trans- port crews from boat to shore. Early booking is advised by contacting Davide@prick- lybaymarina.com or (473) 439-5265. for Island Water World Grenada Sailing Week 2015! Services stepping up with Sea Hawk Premium Yacht Finishes and Spice Island Marine World Grenada Sailing their support, the January 29th to February 3rd Island Water Week (GSW) promises to be an event not to be missed. in the planning of the are taking the views of previous participants into account is easy — register online via 2015 event. Making sure of your place on the start line the next step is to make sure our website www.grenadasailingweek.com. After that, of your place at our two host venues.
PETER MARSHALL Cuba and Spirit of Adventure VO70), Monster Project ( (TP52). Charter places are also available with Ondeck (TP52). Charter places are also available with Ondeck Balearia (VO60s), and Continued from previous page Continued from The event comprises three days of coastal course racing along the south and west The event comprises three days of coastal course racing group or individual charter Provisional entries include a great range of yachts with Coastal course racing includes CSA-rated Racing and Cruising Classes, a one-designCoastal course racing includes CSA-rated Racing and Cruising Launch 2015 with Round Barbados Series! Launch 2015 with Round Barbados no better place to start the Caribbean racing year Alene Krimholtz reports: There’s This year, the Mango Bowl organizing team is again led by SLYC Secretary Anne is again led by SLYC Secretary Mango Bowl organizing team This year, the visit www.stluciayachtclub.com For more information coasts of Barbados, the 79th anniversary Mount Gay Round Barbados Race and the coasts of Barbados, the 79th anniversary Mount Gay Round can be entered indepen- 300-mile Ocean Passage Race to Antigua. All elements the Barbados Tourism dently of each other, and, with a little help from key sponsors all sailors and their Authority and Mount Gay Rum in organizing a social programme families will enjoy, there’s something for everyone. packages available, including Libre Sailing of St. Lucia. Antigua, Stormforce Coaching from the UK and Rum Line than in Barbados, the home of Mount Gay Rum, for the 2015 Mount Gay Round than in Barbados, the home 16th through 24th, 2015. Barbados Race Series, January Purvis, who has travelled to other Eastern Caribbean regattas over the past two Caribbean regattas over the travelled to other Eastern Purvis, who has of Mango operate. The logistics how the established competitions years to observe and more additional on-the-water judges see improvements including Bowl 2014 will two years were that the lessons of the first marking. Anne is confident secure course up early. repeat participants are signing is pleased that so many well learnt, and or e-mail [email protected]. — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 boats comeintofindtheessentialsoflife,rangingfromclothesmedicines.The 73°46.77W mouthofharbor).Pestelisasupplytownand,fewtimesperweek, their needs. the lifeofsimplefishermenandtheirfamilieswhorelyoncatchdaytofill depth betweenGrandCayemiteandLittleisabouteighttoninefeet. bigger thanthesettlementatBombardopolisbutnolesshospitable.Thecontrolling anchorage isinfrontofthetownPointeSable(18°36.15N,73°47.82W).Itsomewhat island islocatedatthenorthsideofsouthpeninsula,towardswestend.The one willaskyouto. the prevailingwinds.Youcannotclearatthisfishingsettlement,butthenagainno Anchoring isintenfeetofwaterorlessasmallcovethatwellprotectedfrom a charmingandsafecommunitywheretheresidentswillbehappytoreceiveyou. ment atthesouthwestcornerofnorthpeninsula(19°39.13N,73°25.26W).Itis my boatthereunattended. tected againststrongnorthers.Givenitsdistancefromthetown,Iwouldnotleave of thesettlementatheadharborisa“bulletproof”anchorage,wellpro- its condition.Aboutamilenorthofthetownissmallfishingsettlementand of anchorrode.Thereisamooringthatcanbepickedup,butIcannotvouchasto the waterdepthinfrontoftownisover20feet,whichtranslatestoagreatdeal town anchorageisaleeshoreifthewindoutofnorthornortheast.Inaddition, desire. Thesettingispositivelybreathtaking.Ifthereashortcoming,itthatthe is atownsetinreallybeautifulharbor.YoucanclearatCapMoleifyouso Mole St.Nicolas(19°48.45N,73°25.02Wentrancetoharbor).CapNicholas of Haitimakesgoodsense. If youareheadedtotheCaribbeanviaWindwardPassage,acruisethroughparts the CaribbeanSeaforthosecomingfromFloridaorEastCoastofNorthAmerica. are avoided. an exceptionalCaribbeancruisingground,providedthatareasofdensepopulation by Part 3: Frank CRUISING HAITITODAY Virgintino Less thanfivenauticalmilesfarthersouthisthesmalltownofPestel(18°32.31N, The backdroptothiseasyanchorageistrulybeautiful.Youwillseeandexperience From Bombardopolis,itis65nauticalmilesduesouthtoGrandeCayemiteisland.The Twelve milessouthofCapMoleandabitwestisBombardopolis,fishingsettle- Coming fromthenorth,usuallyBahamas,firstpossiblestopwouldbeCap Anchorages The WindwardPassageisundoubtedlytheeasiest,quickestandsafestwayinto I havecruisedHaitifortwodecades.Inallofthattime,foundtobe Cruising ThroughHaiti,ATripBackinTime all otheraspects. feet ofwater.Theanchorageisnotasprotectedthelagoon,butmuchnicerin at 55feet.Iliketoanchorthenorthwestcornerofentryharborin20 anchorage isinthelagoonatrearofharborbutthereanoverheadwire and verycolorful,similartoMadameBernardmarketonIle-à-Vache.The local populacefrommilesaroundcomestopurchasewhattheyneed.Itisnoisy for anorthboundvoyage On themaponpage13,somesuggestedroutingstopsarenumbered sailors intheWestAfricantradition’.Topphoto:Theauthor’syachtatPortMorgan. ‘Haitian fishingboatsarelargelypoweredbysailandthefishermenexcellent
DESTINATIONS —Continued onnextpage OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 —Continued on next page Continued from previous page Continued from From Grand Cayemite and/or Pestel you will sail west and make a possible stop at will sail west and make a possible and/or Pestel you From Grand Cayemite of the north at the southwest end to Ile-à-Vache, located From Anse d’Hainault safe place to visit and boats have been calling there Ile-à-Vache is a wonderful and Ile-à-Vache is the mainland town of Les Cayes. There Just a few miles across from more of Haiti, 65 nautical miles east of Ile-à-Vache For those that want to explore west along the south coast of Hispaniola, the trip out- For those that are cruising Clearance procedures the north side of the north Clearance procedures in Haiti are not uniform. On Anse d’Hainault, Les You can clear in for Immigration at Cap Mole St. Nicholas, safety arm that checks on There is also an agency in Haiti called Semana. It is the Anse d’Hainault, a town of 30,000 people at the very west end of the southern pen- at the very west end of the a town of 30,000 people Anse d’Hainault, the boat should winds are concerned, but safe anchorage as far as the insula. It is a place to stop of this size. It is a very good in front of a town not be left unattended wind from the east is strong. rest, particularly so if the and anchor and The route from about 65 nautical miles. will cover a distance of peninsula, you Pointe-à-Gravois, the south peninsula to extreme southwest end of Tiberon at the hard. You challenging if the wind is blowing of Ile-à-Vache, can be which is just west d’Hainault and “turn the corner” en route to Ile-à-Vache should not depart from Anse you or less, conditions normally found after sundown. If unless the wind is ten knots for Haitian fishing boats, all of which are unlit. do sail at night, keep a watch the At Ile-à-Vache you enter from the west side and at since the time of Colombus. Cai enter the bay and anchor in front of the town of northwest corner of the island, a things have changed at the island and it is no longer Coq. Over the years, many They now have streetlights, a few of the local establish- sleepy little fishing village. many people now have cell phones. ments have generators, and Cayes, but you can anchor for the day (leave someone is no good anchorage at Les clear in or out or want to reprovision. Or, if you only want on the boat) if you want to Morgan Hotel to do it for you for a small fee. The hotel to clear, you can get the Port at Cai Coq. is located right in the anchorage of Jacmel. It was a very deluxe resort town at the height is the old Victorian town of pier place to visit. Immigration is located right on the its grandeur and still is a great This anchorage is untenable if the wind has a southern that you will anchor close to. component in it. However, the route north to lined in this article would be undertaken in reverse. is blowing down from the Bombardopolis should not be attempted if a strong norther could make its way to Grand States. When the tradewinds reinstate, a cruising boat Bombardopolis. Cayemite Island and then head north-northwest to make US$350 to clear in with all the peninsula at Cap Haitien, a cruiser was asked to pay the big cities such as Cap agencies waiting in line to get “their share.” Away from a case of visiting the Haitien and Port-au-Prince, clearing in and out is normally are accustomed to dealing Immigration officer. Haitian officials in the larger cities their livelihood by being cre- with large commercial vessels and many of them make ative with the fee schedule. US$10, which gets you a Cayes and Jacmel. The fee to Immigration is normally the really big cities, you will stamp in your passport. Unless you clear in at one of not receive any other paperwork. If you come across a the safety of boats, such as ferries, that take passengers. Semana officer, he will probably ask you for a small tip. — OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 distributed 43 used sails. distributed 43usedsails. through a“cleanwake”jointproject,collectedand Guides sheets fortheirsailinventory.Lastyear, tradition. Manysailusingplasticbagsandoldbed- the fishermenareexcellentsailorsinWestAfrican otherwise havetopaycashfor. supplies: floats,hooks,anythingthattheywould and PointeSabletheycanusedonationsoffishing visit. AtfishingsettlementssuchasBombardopolis are allmuchappreciated. powdered milk,medicinesofalltypesandsoforth needs. Bookstowriteinforherschool,Pampers, all faithsvisitherandgivemanythingsthatshe she hasmadeanenormousimpact.Manypeopleof under-100-pound, less-than-five-foot-tallframe, has beenontheislandover30years.Evenwithher Sister Flora.SheisaCanadianCatholicnunwho next villagetotheeast,isorphanagerunby of schoolsupplies.Also,atMadameBernard,the there isalargepublicschoolthatcanusedonations They knowbestwhoneedswhat.AtIle-à-Vache, churches andschools,ofwhichtherearemany. of charity,itisbesttodothroughtheorphanages, US. Manyofthemissionarieseatthereaswell. restaurant thatservesfullmid-daymealsfor50cents hungry. AtIle-à-Vachethereisagovernment-run you aroundtheislandforafee.However,theyarenot basic work,thatisfine,orperhapshavethemguide and tellyoutheyarehungry.Ifwanttogivethem boys willcomeoutintheirdugoutcanoes( short offoodorbasicclothing.AtIle-à-Vacheyoung purchase whattheyneed.ButmostHaitiansarenot as theyhavetoselltheirfishorcropsraisecash charge US$20perpassportstampandwillgiveyouareceiptuponrequest. department fromLesCayeswillsendaboatoverwithImmigrationofficers.They are agreatnumberofboatsanchoredatIle-à-Vache,onoccasion,theImmigration did notgettheplayonwordsandsimplywaitedformetopayfivedollars.Ifthere fund.” Itoldhimwhenmetthat“Ithoughthewasreallycleaningup”but and complained,hedisappearedhasnotbeenseensince. made arealnuisanceofhimself.AfterIplacedcalltotheDepartmentTourism which hechargedUS$2.50pervesselton.Hedidprettywellforafewweeksand 2013, decidedhewasgoingtoassesseachboat,requiringa“safetycertificate”for — Haitian fishing boats are largely powered by sail and Haitian fishingboatsarelargelypoweredbysailand The sameistruefortheothervillagesthatyouwill All throughHaitiifyouaregoingtogivesometype Haitians areoftenshortofcashtobuyessentials, Charity The mayorofIle-à-VacheiscurrentlychargingcruisersUS$5fora“beachcleanup One suchofficer,seeingsomanyboatsanchoredatCaiCoqonIle-à-Vachein Continued frompreviouspage and the Seven Seas Cruising Association, andtheSevenSeasCruisingAssociation, (575) 4363601-4358009COLOMBIA Free Cruising Free Cruising bois fouille ) the catchofdaytofilltheirneeds’ ‘You willseeandexperiencethelifeofsimplefishermentheirfamilieswhorelyon hounga soumwen years ago. good workingorderorbringenoughjerryjugstotideyouover. work ifyouhavetheparts. facilities, althoughthelargertownsdohaverepairmenthatcanhelpyouwith Frank Virgintinoistheauthorof I havecruisedHaitifortwodecadesandsaywithouthesitation,“ Go backintime.CruiseHaitiandgetasenseofwhattheCaribbeanwaslike50 Fresh waterisinshortsupplyeverywhere,sobesureyourfreshmaker To cruiseHaitiyoumustbefairlyself-sufficientastherearenomarinasorrepair A finalword !” (Haitihascastaspellonme.) Free CruisingGuides , http://freecruisinguides.com. Ayiti metemet OCTOBER 2014 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 !#/# —Continued on next page ) 45 4444 ***7 ) 73 6 ) 73 , is super slow, but it gets us there. We traveled at night and made , is super slow, but it gets us there. We traveled at night Ultra 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q< 4 Q=' 8-&(70 Q&0 '77&:( Q< We had a long but great sail — well, a motorsail for us some of the way. Our big We had a long but great sail — well, a motorsail for We had made up several small snack packages of cookies, crackers and lollipops
always in mind, still in the back of our minds we kept hearing the voices of our always in mind, still in the back of our minds we kept to Haiti?” Our answer was friends who had asked us, “Why in the heck are you going left Texas and experienced that if we had that thought process we would have never all of our amazing sailing adventures! trimaran, and potential boarding. sure we were well offshore to avoid fish float entanglement began to see numerous fish At daybreak, the magnificent sunrise was a true gift. We fishermen use clear Coke and trap markers dotting the water. The problem is, the to see. JoAnne was on the water bottles, or green Sprite bottles, which are not easy to dodge the fish traps right bow as the spotter giving directions to Bill on the wheel see dugout canoes with men and left. Also, in the four- to six-foot swells we began to them had their dugouts rigged paddling them and towing their fishing lines. Some of grain sacks stitched togeth- with a series of black trash bags, weathered black tarps, sea, five to ten miles in a tiny er for sails. Remember, these men are really far out to the water. None of these boats little boat that you can barely see above the surface of for a paddle. Before we knew have motors, and have only the stem of a palm frond it, we were upon at least 40 of these boats. to give out while in this area. We began collecting the Ziploc bags and tossing them to the fishermen. DESTINATIONS At Ile-à-Vache — Cow Island: ‘We decided to take a hike through the little village and then up and over the mountain, At Ile-à-Vache — Cow Island: ‘We decided to take a hike through the pastures and the jungle…’ 32-foot sailboat with only a sail and compass to 32-foot sailboat with only a sail and compass to
green flash at sun- were moored next to
triple