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Home , Abadeh, Mahallat, Natanz

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Central ﺍﻳﺮﺍﻥ ﻣﺮﮐﺰی

Why Go? ...... 143 The expression ‘history resonates’ is bandied about with ...... 146 gay abandon in guidebooks, but here in central Iran it really Esfahan ...... 153 does apply. Ever since Cyrus the Great’s dramatic rise from The Zagros provincial overlord to ruler of the largest empire on earth, Mountains ...... 171 this part of the country has been a showcase for the region’s Dasht-e Kavir ...... 173 greatest civilisations. The imperial majesty of Esfahan, the refi ned and understated elegance of and the weath- ...... 175 ered desert ambience of Yazd stand in fascinating contrast, Shiraz ...... 187 three points on a journey off ering history, culture and chal- ...... 198 lenges in abundance. ...... 202 This is a region where it pays to stay moving. Nomadic Bavanat ...... 202 people and trading caravans were common sights in the Firuz Abad ...... 202 past, and modern travellers often follow in their footsteps, & .... 203 crossing mountains and deserts en route to towns, cities and villages that are as rich in history as they are in hospi- tality. It’s one of the great cultural pilgrimages of our time. Enjoy it. Best Places to Eat » Abbasi Hotel Teahouse (p167 ) When to Go » Fereni Hafez (p167 ) The best times to visit are generally autumn (fall) and » Restaurant Shahrzad (p167 ) spring, although weather conditions do vary from province » Sharzeh Traditional to province. Avoid travelling here in summer, particularly Restaurant (p 195 ) in the desert areas, as it can hit 50°C. At the other extreme, » Shater Abbas 1 (p 195 ) winter brings snow to the Zagros Mountains and freezing nights in the desert. If you are keen to experience a local festival, Ashura (in Best Places to Stay July) is particularly fascinating (especially in Shiraz and » Ateshooni (p 175 ) Yazd), but we suggest staying away during No Ruz (Iranian » Barandaz Lodge (p 178 ) New Year; 21 March to 3 April), when the entire region is swamped with Iranian holidaymakers. » Manouchehri House (p 150 ) » Niayesh Boutique Hotel (p 194 ) » Silk Road Hotel (p181 ) 143 the revolution), its skyline is being trans- formed by ugly new apartment blocks and ﻗﻢ Qom % 0251 / POP 964,706 / ELEV 931M there are more large infrastructure projects Iran’s second-holiest ci-ty after Mashhad, underway here than anywhere else in the Qom (Ghom) is home to both the mag- country. nifi cent Hazrat-e Masumeh shrine and the Despite these changes, Qom remains hardline clerics who have ruled the country one of Iran’s most religious and conserva- since 1979. One of Iran’s fastest-growing tive cities. Shiite scholars and students cities (the population has doubled since come from across the world to study in

Markazi

0 100 km 0 60 miles ὄὄQom Namak D a s h t - e K a v i r Lake Saruq Mashhad-e Razavi CENTRAL IRAN IRANCENTRAL Aran Dasht-e Kavir IRANCENTRAL Arak Ardehal Khorasan Ferdows Farahzad Mesr Mahallat Kashan Niasar Esfahan Khoor (Khur) Tabas Khomein Natanz Garmeh Mt Karkas ὄὄ Bayaziye Deyhuk Khonsar (3899m) Daran QOM

Na'in Fereidun Najaf Esfahan Shahr Abad Toudeshk Chelgerd Khorasgan Chak Chak D a s h t - e L u t Shahr-e Kord Yazd Farsan Ardakan Kharanaq Borujen Ardal Meybod Chahar Mahal Yazd Behabad va Bakhtiyari Taft Fahraj Mt Sir (4074m) Saryazd Bafgh Mehdi Abad Abadeh Zein-o-din Khuzestan Boyerahmad va Kohgiluyeh Abarqu Kermanshah Pataveh Zagros Mountains Dehdasht Fars Yasuj Anar Zarand Behbahan Pooladkaf Bavanat Sepidan Pasargadae Marvast Rafsanjan Dogombadan Naqsh-e Rajab Bazm Kerman Nur Abad Naqsh-e Sa’adat Abad Shahr-e Babak Bagein Bushehr Karim Khan Rostam Persepolis Bridge Harat Bandar-e Lake Gonave Bishapur Kazerun Shiraz Tashk Kerman Lake Sirjan Borazjan Kherameh Bakhtegan Bushehr ὄὄ Baft Ahram Firuz Abad Estehban Rishahr Firuz Abad Fasa Persian Khormuj Gulf Fars

Central Iran Highlights 1 Kick back in the 4 Lose yourself in the 6 Experience Iran’s fast- courtyard of a traditional labyrinthine laneways of the disappearing nomadic hotel in Yazd (p 181 ) Bazar-e Bozorg in Esfahan culture at Bavanat (p202 ) 2 Admire a cluster of (p 155 ) 7 Follow in the footsteps Qajari mansions in Kashan 5 Sample home-cooked of Darius I while wandering (p146 ) meals and true Iranian through Persepolis (p 198 ) 3 Soak up the silent hospitality in a guesthouse 8 Pay homage at the surrounds and star-fi lled in the desert (p 173 ) shrines of two Persian poets skies of the Dasht-e Kavir in Shiraz (p187 ) (p173 )