PRIL, 1918. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR.

NOTICE TO R DER: When you read- 4 ing this magaz place a I cent n tnis notice, hand s to any posta yee and it e p1 the hand soldiers o at ont. No no ad-

II M.LTN CLOSED D U 620 .M5

Vol. XV. No. 4. HONOLULU, HAWAII. Food Conservation and Red Cross Work

BANANA BREAD IN HAWAII The Honolulu Pan-Pacific Club has taken the lead in urging the restaurants of Hawaii to use banana bread, that wheat may be conserved for the Front. Food conservation and Red Cross work complement each other—each helps the man at the Front, as well as the unfortunate of Europe, in need of food. In Hawaii, the problem of a new bread has been successfully solved—a tasteful, nutritious article that largely replaces the wheat loaf, and as so many of the lands of the Pacific grow the banana, the recipe is herewith given. It is only necessary to take a sufficient quantity of bananas for the number of loaves desired and pass them through a sieve or ricer. When they are thoroughly pulped the usual quantity of yeast is added. The proportion of bananas to white bread should be two- thirds banana pulp to one-third wheat flour. The banana pulp should be measured before the yeast is added in order to get the right amount of yeast. A little salt is added, and sufficient milk or water to make a workable sponge, but no sugar or shortening is needed in the banana bread. The sweetness and richness of the fruit pulp amply supplies their place. After the sponge , is made the procedure is the same as in ordinary bread making. The bread is even more nourishing than the usual white flour bread, because of the high protein content of the bananas and their high caloric value. It is fine-grained and moist, keeping excellently. It makes good raisin bread. Hawaii's agricultural experiment station has long advised the use of banana bread, as being more healthful, nutritious and cheaper than the wheat. The Mid-Pacific Magazine will be pleased to receive from other lands recipes for breads that may use other products that wheat. Use home products. -; gm=mm t r flitil-Partitr ittagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Volume XV. Number IV.

CONTENTS FOR APRIL, 1918.

OUR ART SECTION—RED CROSS FOOD CONSER- VATION IN PAN-PACIFIC COUNTRIES - - 302 OUR JAPANESE AND THE RED CROSS MOVEMENT 317 POSSIBILITIES OF PAN-PACIFIC COMMERCE - 323 4- By William Rutledge McGarry. LATIN AMERICA AND THE PACIFIC - - - 327 By Hon. John Barrett. SOME FAMOUS FISH PONDS OF HAWAII - - 331 By John .4. Cobb. HOW CHINA DELIVERS HER MAILS - - - 335 By R. E. Bronson. AMERICAN EDUCATION IN THE PHILIPPINES - 339 By Prescott F. Jernegan. THE HAPPY MOLOKAIANS - - - - - 343 By E. S. Goodhue, M. D. MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA'S CAPITAL - - - 347 By J. C. Boyce. TRAGEDIES OF THE NEW ZEALAND ALPS - 353 By S. Turner, F. R. G. S. THE HAWAIIAN TRAIL & MOUNTAIN CLUB - - 359 THE CRUISE OF SYDNEY HARBOR - - - 363 By James Webb. THE ROMANCE OF SAN FRANCISCO - - - 367 By Frank Norton Todd. PELE'S PILGRIMAGE - - - - - - 371 By Fred J. Halton. ALASKA, THE WONDERFUL - - - - - 375 By R. H. Stretch. ANIMAL LIFE IN JAVA - - - - - - 379 By William Hoogs. GREAT LAVA FLOWS - - - - - - - 383 By Vaughan MacCaughey. TATTOOING IN THE PACIFIC ISLANDS - - 387 By Chas. A. Stanton. .t.* MEANDERING ON MAUI - - - - - - 391 By Woods Peters. 4,=', SUGAR CANE BLOSSOMS—A POEM - - - 396 Mary Dillingham Frear. Encyclopedia and Guide to Hawaii and the Pacific.

MN i'l: th-Farifir III agazint Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoflice. Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. 4.9 a -331(

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• The Red Cross workers in Honolulu occupy the ancient Throne Room of the Hawaiians in the Capitol Building. Here in old lolani Palace they prepare bandages to be sent to the Front. flith-Parifir fitagattur CONDUCTED BY. ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Volume XV. APRIL, 1918. Number 4. ft II I It III 111113,11.1 I I

Ready for Red Cross work.

VOucan=aumli. Our Japanese and the Red Cross Movement

REDIT must be given the Japan- from Japan have not been slackers. ese in Hawaii for taking the initi- Quoting from the Pacific Commercial ' ative that brought about the or- Advertiser, about the time of the birth of ganization of a branch of the Red Cross the Red Cross organization in Honolulu, army in Honolulu at the crossroads of the we find that it was the Japanese who first Pacific—that may, in time, act as the asked that a branch of the Red Cross "clearing house" of effort for many of army be established in Hawaii, and they the different races of the Pacific that asked from patriotic motives. are interested in the Red Cross. Reports the Commercial Advertiser: The Japanese women in Hawaii have "We Japanese in Hawaii cannot fight long had their own organization for help- for Uncle Sam, but we must do some- ing in this worthy cause, and the men thing for America ; will you let us raise

317 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Japanese control the Fishing Industry in Hawaii; 7,500 are Red Cross Members.

a fund for the Red Cross work," These Pacific Union, and stated that E. D. Ten- were the opening words of the Japanese ney, chairman of the War Relief Com- spokesman at a meeting of the leading mittee, had called a meeting for today, Japanese citizens and the officers of the when a request would be forwarded to Pan-Pacific Union. Washington that a branch of the Red The Hon. Walter F. Frear, ex-Gover- Cross be established in Hawaii, and that nor of Hawaii, presided at the meeting, the Japanese certainly would become and W. R. Castle, vice-president of the units of the branch in Hawaii, and that Pan-Pacific Union and chairman of the their action would be mentioned in the Red Cross work for the War Relief Com- appeal to Washington. mittee in Hawaii, acted as spokesman A communication from Mr. W. A. for both organizations. Horn of the Army & Navy Y. M. C. A. The delegates from the Japanese cotn- was presented, offering to lease the old munity were : Mr. M. Kawakatsu, man- University Club building on the Royal ager of the Sumitomo Bank ; T. Horiuchi, Hawaiian Hotel grounds to the Pan- a Japanese pineapple king; S. Takahashi, Pacific Club, and the offer was accepted. the merchant ; T. Hata, and Y. Ishii, It was decided to offer the fore-part who, during the Russo-Japanese War, of the building to Red Cross men work- raised in Hawaii $60,000 for the Red ers and the large lanais and halls to the Cross Fund. He and his lieutenants on ladies who are preparing material to send all the islands are ready to begin another to the National Red Cross headquarters. campaign, and have appealed to the Pan- Mr. A. L. Castle suggested that ar- Pacific Club to make the way clear for rangements be made to have the Red them to help. Cross certificates printed in both Japan- Mr. W. R. Castle assured the Japan- ese and English, with the amounts con- ese delegation of the support of the Pan- tributed on each, and this will be done. THE MID-PACIFIC 319

The Capitol Building—Red Cross headquarters in Hawaii.

Some of the Japanese expressed a throne room of the Capitol Building was hope that the other races in Hawaii would turned over to the women of the city for also organize, through the Pan-Pacific their Red Cross workshop, and here in Union, for Red Cross endeavor and so the room where Hawaii's kings and stimulate a pleasant rivalry. queens reigned, may be seen a hundred After the luncheon at "Laniakea" the or more women of Hawaii garbed in the meeting adjourned to the old University Red Cross uniform, at work for the men Club buildings on the Royal Hawaiian at the Front ; and weekly, great boxes Hotel grounds, facing Hotel Street, and are shipped by them to the needy over these were inspected. It is probable that the sea. the Pan-Pacific Club will move into its In three months. Honolulu contributed new quarters about the same time that $135,000 to its Red Cross work, and now the Army & Navy. Y. M. C. A. takes all of the Hawaiian Islands are contribut- over the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, and in ing; not a cent of any donator's money many ways the two organizations will going to either salaries or expenses. co-operate, although one is professedly Christian and the other non-sectarian and The Red Cross membership in Hawaii non-religious, with only the good of Hu- is about 50,000,. or about 25% of the en- manity and the brotherhood of men and tire population. Several hundred cases races at heart. of needed material have been shipped, Later in the day a request came from valued at more than a hundred thousand E. W. Christmas, the artist, that one-half dollars, and the good work continues. of the funds from the sale of any of his Forty cases a month are now shipped paintings in the coming artist's exhibi- from Honolulu to the Front for Red tion in the Pan-Pacific Building be turned Cross service. In the Throne Room of over to Red Cross work, as this is his the Palace, gauze and surgical dressing only way of helping. is prepared. Japanese women assist in The Hawaiian branch of the Red Cross this daily, and one afternoon a week the was established in Honolulu with the Throne Room is turned over to the Jap- Japanese Consul-General, R. Moroi, as anese, tinder Mrs. Rokuro Moroi — wife one of its executive committee, and the of the Consul-General for Japan—and 323 THE MID-PACIFIC

lapanese Cadets Marching to Iolani Palace, Honolulu.

Mrs. Y. Soga—wife of the leading Jap- advantage of thrift stamps, which may be anese editor in Hawaii. purchased at any post-office. At the. Pan-Pacific Club house, rooms In the public schools, as well as in have been turned over to the training the Japanese schools, the boys make the classes, and in the Kilohana Art League packing cases in which the goods are Building, hospital supplies, night shirts, shipped, the girls knit at home, and pajamas, hospital jackets, socks and in the afternoons resort to the Throne sheets are prepared by the ladies there. Room of the Palace for instruction. Miss Beatrice Castle, who started the The Chinese are also great Red Cress Women's Auxiliary, is chairman, and workers in Hawaii. Mr. C. K. Ai, one Mrs. G. P. Wilder is in charge of the of the directors of the Pan-Pacific Union, training classes in the Pan-Pacific Build- is on the executive committee .of the ing. Hawaii Chapter of the National Red An interesting feature of the Red CroSs Society, but the story of the work Cross work in Hawaii is the splendid of the Chinese in the. Hawaiian Red assistance the Boy Scouts have given. Cross Society will be told in another Often a dozen Pacific races are repre- issue. sented in a single Scout Troop in Hawaii Ex-Governor George R. Carter of —it is truly Pan-Pacific. The Boy Scouts Hawaii is leading in the drive for Red sell Liberty Bonds—some of them buy Cross memberships in the islands, which them—they buy Thrift Stamps for thin- for four years he governed. He was, selves, and go among all the nationali- and always has been, a pronounced friend ties, explaining in a dozen tongues the of the Japanese in Hawaii ; he uses them THE MID-PACIFIC 321 as an example to all other races in Ha- The work among the Japanese women waii to show their loyalty to Red Cross of Hawaii is not confined to the Red endeavor. Cross Headquarters, but is being carried "The Japanese in Hawaii have beaten us on in various kindergartens by the . to it in organizing," he assures his audi- mothers of children attending them. ences, ''and they are teaching us a lesson. They have their own Red Cross, with some Some of the Japanese churches have 7,500 members, to which they have been also joined this campaign and are do- contributing, and by which, sending funds ing their share, turning out work along through Japan to Europe; but we now offer them an opportunity to torward their dues the same lines as other Red Cross to Washington, through the Society of the units. land where their money is earned, and we believe every Japanese member reported to The "Wakaba' Kwai," a club com- Washington headquarters will be another posed of young Japanese members of fibre in the strand that binds the two coun- the Y. W. C. A., have interested them- tries together. selves, assisting the Red Cross by hold- "Back in the East the saying is, 'You ing weekly knitting and sewing meet- must make up your mind what you can afford to give, then give double that amount, ings. later give again, keep giving until it hurts.' Hawaii thanks the Japanese for the "This War is not going to be won by initiative they have supplied in Red Cross the boys at the Front alone. They don't mind going over the top for the last time; all endeavor in the Mid-Pacific, and com- they ask is to be convinced of the wide- mends to every land of the Great Ocean spread, hearty support of the folks at home. a drive among its native children and "This War is to be won or lost by the attitude and action of those who stay at guests alike for memberships in the home, and you and I are of them." great world-wide Red Cross Society.

The Japanese idea—see no evil, speak no evil, hear no evil—of the Red Cross work. 322 THE MID-PACIFIC

41‘ Possibilities of Pan-Pacific Commerce

By WILLIAM. RUTLEDGE McGARRY

HE Art of Balboa, the discoverer Take a look at the invisible currents of of the Pacific, consisted in mak- commerce reversing the circuit and dodg- T ing the possible sum real ; the ing the "U-boats" by an easterly course Art of Jack London plucked from the to the west. helmet of Eternity the carressing plum- The picture you see begins on the left age of Truth and beauty with which to of the canvas, where India and Ceylon, reveal the probable to man. And if Mar- the Straits Settlements and Java, have tin Eden ever arises from his watery piled up a thirty-million-ton commerce grave to view the scenes of his immortal each year. In the center is China, with youth, let us hope that a Pan-Pacific a dark Siberian background, vibrating Brotherhood will redeem the pledge of with 400,000,000 inhabitants, and looking London's philosophic pen. out toward the magic light to the right, Truth is the keystone of every possi- that rises like a sunburst over the Arch bility, whether it be related to Art or al- of the Golden Gate. lied to commerce or the Gospel. I have Down near the bottom are Australia an abiding faith in every Truth that has and New Zealand—like the Raphael che- been revealed. rubs, looking up at the Mother of Prog- ress with the infant co-operation on her The Future of Pacific Commerce breast. If you want a bird's eye of future In the right and left foreground kneel possibilities of Pacific commerce, close the two reverent figures of South Ameri- your eyes and look at the map. ca and Japan, earnestly contemplating

323 324 THE MID- PACIFIC the majestic sweep of human progress cost is thirty-two cents. The income of that flashes from the prophetic eye of France is but fifty-one cents, the war Peace. cost thirty-two cents. The income of In this cosmic struggle of universal Russia is hardly twelve cents, while her desolation, a two-hundred-billion-dollar war cost is over six. Germany stands cross will rest upon the shoulders of man- 42-22, while Austria-Hungary struggles kind. In the crucifixion of commercial along with 31-16. With the high cost of gluttony, a trembling Earth is shaking living, how is it possible for the warring loose the robes of prejudice, and in the nations to absorb much commerce upon transfiguration that is to follow the spirit the present, net income? And if prices of co-operation will arise to redeem the fall too quickly—as a result of competi- world. tion in this anaemic market—there will When I speak thus of Co-operation, be such a destruction of wealth as to I am thinking in terms of Pan-Pacific, shake Society to its very foundation. and I wish to give emphasis to this new The temper of the world after all this progressive thought : Rivalry and com- horror of war will not hesitate at a little petition will never discharge a two-hun- more brutality to relieve itself from debt. dred-billion obligation. The interest The creditor class — the bondholders - charge alone will absorb the foreign com- the banks will attract the fury of tile merce of all the allied nations, perpetu- distressed, and we may witness in other ate the burdens and dissipate the produc- lands the overthrow of all existing stand- tion forces of both Capital and Labor. ards of commercial decency unless these The scramble for the existing seven Pacific countries point the way to re- billion to pay the necessary ten billion deem and steady the step of modern civ- interest charge will force the banking ilization. world into a denial of indispensable credit To solve this problem of debt, the war- upon which competitive commerce rests, mad world may confiscate the debt ; it thus again developing individual, class may perpetuate a moratorium ; it may and racial hatreds that lead to war and a pension the creditors ; it may transfer the further bonded imposition on mankind. debt into unoccupied land, coupled with The fluctuating character of exchange the obligation to produce ; or it may leave will only intensify the caution of money to the creditor the privilege of financing to engage in international 'commerce— a commerce and a world-wide industrial- because when one nation sells on time ism that will maintain the equilibrium, and buys for cash, the exchange of the and in time wipe out the debt in an creditor nation falls and imperils the sta- honest and humane adherence to the bility of the investnient. And so the principles of economic justice. caution exercised by money erects a bar- To finance this kind of commerce—this rier of suspicion between trading nations world-wide industrialism—is the busi- that checks the flow of commerce and ness we of the Pan-Pacific should in- spreads throughout the industrial fabric augurate. It is one of the most patriotic an epidemic of unrest. —if not the most sublime tasks that has We derive no consolation from our ever been presented to the sober judg- estimated national wealth when looking ment of any body of men. this question of competition .squarely in There are 300,000 miles of railway to the eyes. While Great Britain's wealth be built in Siberia ; 200,000 in China, and may be eighty-five billions, her war debt 50,000 in India, to awaken 800,000,000 is nineteen billions, her per capita income intellects and appetites to the commerce is but sixty-five cents, her per capita war of the Pacific : A dollar a day to the THE MID-I- ACIFIC 325 labor while opening these vast store- wooden boats from Pacific Coast timber houses of wealth to transportation would to carry the produce these races will buy awaken a consuming capacity of five from you. Raise the Oriental standard cents per capita a day to Pan-Pacific of living from six to fifty cents a day. commerce. This means a new market of Create in San Francisco an exhibit of thirteen billions a year ; a dozen cities international products, where buyer and of one to five million people in the Pacific seller may meet, and it will soon rival Ocean, and a merchant marine with a New York or Antwerp in the imperial tonnage of thirty million both ways. It sweep of civic progress and international means added bank earnings of $600,000,- trade. 000 annually for American bankers alone. Get back of this neglected—this mar- It means such a demand for Pan-Pacific velously potential commerce which is produce, that all factories will run twelve dimpling the cheeks of our smiling Pa- months in the year, labor will be em- cific. Co-operate with these neighboring ployed, idleness will disappear, credit will people. Lift them up—build them up, be fortified behind an unassailable bul- and they will build up your cities and wark of National honor, and commerce push such an electric touch to a rejuv- will clip from the collossal world debt enated commerce that the wheels of in- enough to retire it in thirty years. Build those railways. Pay the laborer dustry will hum an everlasting canticle who builds them even a dollar a day, and to the spirit of domestic concord and you cannot find men enough to build international harmony.

For America from across the Pacific. 326 THE MID-PACIFIC

Grounds in Washington, D. C., about the Pan-American Building.

Passing through the Panama Canal, to the Pacific.

Facade of the Pan-American Building. The world's "gateway" to Pacific Pan-America—the Panama Canal

Latin America and the Pacific

By HON. JOHN BARRETT, (Director-General, Pan-American Union.)

3at.

The great and varied business interests whom foreign trade is their very life. Not of the Pacific Coast have a vital interest only will the Coast have international in Latin American trade. The construc- rivalry in trade, but it will find that other tion of the Panama Canal has opened the American commercial centers will unite, way beyond the original twelve countries under more liberal interpretations of laws bordering on the Pacific Ocean which governing trade combinations, to secure were more directly tributary to them in their share of these markets. This will a commercial sense. Most of the Latin call into action the Coast's well-known American nations may now be reached skill for organization and concentration on more or less equal terms of competi- of effort. tion with other nations and with rival do- It stimulates the imagination to think mestic commercial centers. of the great field open to the United States In many former visits to the Coast and not only for the selling of its goods but particularly during the period of its great for real trade ; that is, reciprocal trade, Expositions I urged it to prepare for the and the investment of its surplus capital. Panama Canal, and am giving now mere- There are twenty Latin American repub- ly my personal views. I want to emphasize lics ranging from little Salvador, with the importance of getting together for less than 8000 square miles, or smaller the great trade which will be started the than Vermont, up to mighty Brazil, with moment peace is declared, that no efforts 3,200,000 square miles, or greater than will be spared for success by those to the United States proper with Great

327 328 THE MID -PACIFIC

Britain thrown in ! In all, they spread was far behind ! The confirmatory ex- over nearly 9,000,000 square miles, or port figures were : United States, $325,- three times the connected area of the 000,000 ; Great Britain, about $322,000,- United States ! They contain mountains 000 ; Germany, $216,000,000. In pur- higher, rivers larger and more navigable, chases or imports from Latin America, valleys wider and more fertile, and cli- the United States had a big lead over both mates more varied, than those of the Great Britain and Germany, or a total al- United States. most equal to both combined ! The tell- Noting the population we find that tale figures were : United States, $504,- Costa Rica starts at the small end of the 000,000 ; Great Britain, $321,000,000; list with 400,000 inhabitants, and Brazil Germany, $189,000.000. tops it with 20,000,000. All Latin America Since the war there has been, of course, supports today approximately a popula- a notable increase in the trade between tion of 80,000,000 which in turn is in- the Latin American countries and the creasing by reproduction faster than is United States. the population of the United States. In 1913 the exports of the United • When the new emigration. from Europe States to the twenty Latin American re- starts in after the war, and when the publics (using United States statistical Panama Canal is in full use by the ship- figures which are slightly under Latin ping of a peaceful Europe, this total may • American valuations from above) soon overtake and pass that of the big amounted to $316,560,433, and imports sister nation of North America. from the same countries to $427,058,266. In spite of the hoary old legend that Total, $743,618,699. The corresponding the United States has so neglected its op- figures for 1916 show that this trade has portunities in Latin America and that it nearly doubled. Exports to Latin Amer- is nowhere in the race, its export com- ica, $497,155,369. Imports from Latin merce has more than doubled in the last America, $823,578,723. Total, $1,320,- ten years, due to the great interest aroused 734,192, as compared with $743,618,699, in this country by the Pan-American as shown above for 1916, showing an in- Union, the Departments of States and crease of $577,115,393 during the last Commerce, the great Expositions held on three years. the Pacific Coast, and other economic and Realizing that it might be said in re- industrial factors of importance. buttal that the so-called balance of trade It will surprise some persons to kpo w is against the United States, as is not the that, taking the figures of 1913, before case with Great Britain and Germany, it the war, in order to furnish a proper basis, must be pointed out that the imports of the United States not only conducted a the United States from Latin America greater trade with Latin America than are largely valuable and useful raw prod- did its competitors, Great Britain or Ger- ucts needed for the employment of labor many, but also a trade second only to and capital in its manufacturing plants that of those two countries combined ! and for necessary food supplies. In other The total exchange of Latin American words, the United States, in the ultimate products with those of the United States economic adjustment of values, has, in in 1913 was valued approximately at effect, no unfavorable balance of trade $818,000,000 ; Great Britain, $644,000,- with Latin America and makes conse 000 ; Germany, $408,000,000. In exports quently the best showing of any nation, to Latin America, the United States not excepting Great Britain and Ger- slightly led Great Britain, while Germany many. THE MID-PACIFIC 329

There was a time when fast clippers stenographers. The Union publishes a swept the seas and carried the American Monthly Bulletin in English, Spanish, flag and United States goods to the great Portuguese and French, which is a care- South American ports. Then conditions ful record of Pan-American progress. It changed, its great merchant marine died also publishes numerous, special reports and the energies and the capital of its and pamphlets on various subjects of people were diverted toward the golden practical information. Its library, the Co- West, to the ultimate goal of the glorious lumbus Memorial Library, contains near- land its inhabitants have made synony- ly 40,000 volumes, 20,000 photographs. mous with progress and success. Here 160,000 index cards, and a large collec- railways had to be built as well as cities, tion of maps. the soil cultivated, mines opened and the In closing, I must say that while of virgin forest and the wilderness subju- late years much has been done of a spas- gated. modic character to secure business in It was not until the United States be- Latin America by individuals and firms, gan to manufacture a surplus over its which has led to some discouragement, needs that its great industrial centers there are great industrial and commercial and establishments started to interest organizations which will serve as models themselves in an export trade. Then ef- for future efforts. They have achieved forts were directed particularly toward remarkable results by adapting American Latin America, which was considered a scientific merchandising and advertising natural field for expanding trade. Later methods to local requirements. They the first Pan-American Congress was have not treated these southern lands as called in 1889 by Secretary Blaine which a unit, but have studied the special phases led to the creation of the International of the three great commercial zones and Bureau of American Republics, now their subdivisions, namely, the Caribbean, known as the Pan-American Union. the West Coast and the East Coast. This organization, which may justly Greater and more comprehensive ef- claim a primal position in the develop- forts will be made the moment peace is ment of trade and friendly relations with declared, and it will be well for the lead- the Latin American countries, is interna- ing commercial interests of the Pacific tional in scope and is housed in a mag- Coast to join in the planning of a great nificent building at Washington, and is trade campaign to secure a share, not supported, according to their population, only for the sale of merchandise but to by all the American countries. Its af- import non-competing raw products and fairs are administered by a director gen- to invest surplus capital in helping to- eral and assistant director, elected by ward the development and betterment of and responsible to a governing board, those lands. This is not only a broad pol- which is composed of the Secretary of icy of reciprocity, but a vital factor in State of the United States and the diplo- securing orders for material used in the matic representatives in Washington of building of railways and the construction the other American governments. These two executive officers are assisted by a of public works, because these orders staff of international experts, statisticians, generally go to the men and firms of the commercial specialists, editors, transla- nations whose capital is invested in those tors, compilers, librarians, clerks and undertakings. 330 THE MID-PACIFIC A typical Hawa an fish pond, near Honolulu.

Famous Fish Ponds of Hawaii

By JOHN A. COBB

-9/

HE fishes of Hawaii are remark- ponds goes back into the age of fable, able for their brilliancy of color, the Hawaiians, for instance, attributing T a trait which they share with the construction of one of the most anci- fishes of other volcanic and coral islands ent, the deep-water fish pond wall at the of the Tropics. Of the many species Huelia River on Kauai, to the Mene- which come into the markets nearly all hunes, a fabled race of dwarfs, dis- are good food-fishes. A very few (most- tinguished for cunning industry and me- ly puffers—Tetraodontidae) are poison- chanical and engineering skill and in- ous—or at least noxious—and a few telligence. Many of the very old ponds species living in the crevices of the reefs are still in practical use and look as are too small to be sought for food pur- though they would last for centuries yet. poses. As the ponds were originally owned by As most of the natives eat some fishes the kings and chiefs, it is very probable raw, certain species not of especial excel- that most of them were built by the lence when cooked are highly valued by forced labor of the common people. them. This is especially true of the There is a tradition among the natives parrot-fishes (Scarus), which sell in the that Loko Wekolo, on Pearl Harbor, market at prices which seem extraordi- Oahu, was built about 250 years ago, and narily high. that the natives formed a line from the The most interesting of the fishery re- shore to the mountain and passed the sources of the islands are the fish ponds. lava rock from hand to hand till it reachect This is the only place within the limits the shore where the building was going of the United States where they are on, without once touching the ground in found on such an immense scale and put transit. As the 'distance is considerably to such general and beneficent use. The over a mile, this speaks well for the time of the building of many of these density of the population at that time.

331 332 THE MID-PACIFIC

The ponds are found principally in the they are dipped out by means of hand bays indenting the shores of the islands, dip nets. In the sea ponds the gate is the common method of construction hav- opened when the tide is coming in and ing been to build a wall of lava rock when it turns it is closed. across the narrowest part of the entrance There is usually a small runway, built to a small bay or bight of land and use the of two parallel rows of loosely piled inclosed space for the pond. They were stones from the gate to about ten feet also built on the seashore itself, the wall into the pond. As the fish congregate in in this case being run out from two points this runway when the tide is going out, it on the shore, some distance apart, in the is very easy to dip out the supply needed shape of a half-circle. Most of the Molo- for market. Seines and gill nets are also kai fish ponds were built in this manner. swept around the inside of the ponds at A few were constructed somewhat inte- times in taking fish from them, and as rior and these were filled by the fresh- they are quite shallow this is done easily. water streams from the mountains or by tidal water from the sea carried to them Fishes in Ponds. by means of ditches. Most of the latter The sea ponds usually contain only the are on Oahu, near Honolulu. The No- ama-ama, or mullet, and the awa. In the milo fish pond at Lawai, on Kauai, is fresh- and the brackish-water ponds gold formed from an old volcanic crater with fish, china fish, o-opu, o-pai, carp, a-hole- an opening toward the sea, across which hole, and o-kuhe-kuhe are kept. Prac- a wall has been built, and as the opening tically no attempt at fish culture is made is below the surface of the sea, the tide with these ponds. Besides the fish which plays in and out when the gates are come in through the open gates, the opened. owner usually has men engaged at cer- Sea Ponds. tain seasons of the year in catching young In the sea ponds the walls are about ama-ama and awa in the open sea and five feet in width and are built somewhat bays, and transporting them alive to the loosely in order that the water can per- fish ponds. They are kept in the ponds colate freely. The interior ponds have until they attain a marketable size, and dirt sides generally, although a few have longer frequently if the prices quoted in rock walls covered with dirt, while oth- the market are not satisfactory. They ers have rock walls backed with dirt. cost almost nothing to keep, as the fish The sea ponds generally have sluice gates find their own food in the sea ponds. It which can be raised or lowered, or else is supposed that they eat a fine moss which open and close like a door. In the (alga), which is quite common in the interior ponds there are usually two small ponds. bulkheads with a space about eight feet The Vanishing Fish Pond. square between them. Each of these has a small door which usually slides up or There are probably not more than one- down. When the tide is coming in both half the number of ponds in use today • doors are opened and the fish are allowed that there were thirty years ago. There to go in freely. When the tide turns the are numerous reasons for this. Most sad doors are closed. When the owner wishes of all, the native population is dying off to remove any of the fish he generally rapidly, and where there were prosper- opens the inner door when the tide is ous and populous villages in the early ebbing. The fish rush into the narrow years of the last century there is prac- space between the bulkheads, from which tically a wilderness now. Owing to this THE MID-PACIFIC 333 depopulation there would be no sale for said to have been the largest on the fish in the immediate neighborhood of islands. Only traces of it are now to be the ponds there, the only place where it found on the beach. could be sold owing to the difficulty in At Hilo, on Hawaii, some ponds, most- transporting fish any distance without the ly quite small, are so filled with the water use of ice, and the ponds would naturally hyacinth that it is impossible to work be allowed to go to decay, the walls break- them any more. ing down from the action of the storms, Other ponds have been filled up to and the sea filling them with sand when make way for building operations and for they are located on the immediate shore. other purposes. This is especially true of This condition of affairs is especially ponds in and around Honolulu and La- prevlent on Molokai. haina. There used to be a number of fish Two of the important crops of the ponds on Lanai, but they have all been islands are rice and taro. As both must allowed to fall into decay. be grown in a few inches of water, and More and more in Hawaii is the fish are very profitable crops, a number of the pond needed for food supplies. One such interior ponds were turned into rice fields natural pond near Honolulu rents to and taro patches. Oahu has shown the Chinamen for several thousand dollars greatest changes in this regard. a year, and they make a rich profit. What On Hawaii many. ponds were filled up might be done in this direction if the by the volcano lava flows of 1801 and white man put his brain and capital in 1859. The Kamehameha fish pond, which Hawaiian fish ponds might prove an in- was filled up in this manner in 1859, is teresting and useful experiment.

;I deserted fish pond. 334

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In such craft as t hese, China's mail is carr ied to d istant parts o f t he Rep ublic, r eached by eit her r iv er or ca nal. T his is a scene on t he r iver at Canton.

- .6 kg "• 44.... ...,4,

• Harriet.Chalmers ddams in a Chinese cross-country mail wagon.

%=1:ararualum======a0 7 How China Delivers Her Mails The Story of the Mot Remarkable Post Office System in the World

By R. E. BRONSON.

T HROUGH all the changing for the written and printed word, which scenes of Chinese life in recent has characterized the Chinese people, T years, through all the upheav- literate and illiterate, from time immem- als and political vicissitudes the nation orial, still to a large extent survives ; has witnessed, one government institu- and second, that the national postal serv- tion has remained unchanged and un- ice has won for itself a reputation as checked in policy and progress—the na- being a non-political, non-partisan insti- tional post office. No other country in tution, the -co-partner and abettor of the world has cast off the shackles of every form of enlightenment and solid autocracy and despotism and issued forth progress. This reputation is largely the into the untrammelled liberty of Repub- result of its administration, which has lican institutions with so little disorgani- been, and in the main still is, in the zation of its postal operations, internal hands of foreign servants of the Govern- and external, as China. And this fact ment, whose political detachment as the is signnficant of two things—first, that citizens of other countries, has enabled the traditional respect, even veneration, them to pursue their postal duties and

335 336 THE MID-PACIFIC oversight, amid every degree of internal nothing." It has been through compe- disorder, with a single eye to the interests tition and long and persevering efforts, of the service and of the nation. that the two older systems have been The creation of Sir Robert Hart, who almost entirely superseded by the new commenced experimental services as national organization. This keen com- early as 1861 by establishing postal de- petition has been the cause of some re- partments in the Custom Houses at markable measures taken by the post Shanghai and Chinkiang, and subse- office to offer a quick and efficient service quently at other coastal ports for the to the public. More daily deliveries of carrying of official foreign and. Customs mail matter have been instituted than are mail, the Chinese post office received customary in many more up-to-date coun- Government sanction by imperial decree tries, e.g. in some of the larger cities on March 20, 18%. Out of a simple there are twelve deliveries daily, letter beginning, having a very precise pur- collectors are sent out to the shops in pose and limited scope, has thus been many of even the smaller cities, shortly elaborated a system answering national before the time for despatching mails, requirements and serving millions of to collect from the various merchants people, and yet destined to greater any letters they may have for mailing ; growth as China undergoes the changes box-offices and sub-offices have been es- which the increased contact with West- tablished at points easily accessible from ern ideas and ideals is bringing in a all parts of every large city ; deliveries country great in industrial possibilities have been quickened by postmen on and potential wealth. bicycles ; and postal services and the It should not be thought, however, tariff on postage have been widely ad- that the Chinese were without means vertised. of postal communication prior to either The I Chan services had from ancient of the dates mentioned above, for from times been maintained by the Govern- far antiquity they have possessed two ment, not as a postal organization, but varieties of postal institution, viz. : the as a means of transmitting despatches I Chan (or imperial government courier and official correspondence between the service) which bespeaks one autocratic capital of the empire on the one hand, central authority ; and the Hsinchu and and the various provincial and sub- Minchu, native postal agencies initiated provincial seats of government. by private enterprise and long used and In 1905, 76,000 pieces of mail matter trusted by the people. were dealt with. In 1917, more than one Both provided a living for a multi- billion. tude of couriers and were, previous to The long courier lines are deserving of the penetration of the national post's special attention. Mails are now sent to lines of communication into every city places inland in numerous cases several and important township of the far in- hundred miles, and in a few cases over a terior, a requisite for a vast and essen- thousand miles from either railway or tially letter-writing people, comprising steamer connection. Roads in China are the oldest civilization in the universe. proverbially and deplorably bad, making "These ancient institutions could neither it necessary that practically all transporta- be suppressed, transferred, nor replaced tion of mails inland be done by foot or at a stroke, so the above-mentioned im- mounted couriers, but in some cases perial decree only gave final sanction to pack-mules or two-wheeled native carts a new and vast undertaking but abolished are used, and camel caravans are availed THE MID -PACIFIC 337 of in parts of Mongolia. Several thou- erally speaking, her post office levies sands of fast couriers are employed in perhaps the smallest fees for transporta- the interior, running according to fixed tion of mails of any country in the world. schedule and between certain stations. A letter posted for local delivery requires During times of rebellion and political a one-cent stamp (N.d in English money) disorder—and China has been sadly un- or for domestic delivery a three-cent fortunate in these respects—the courier stamp (3/d). The registration fee is leads a dangerous life, braving wayside one-fourth, and the special delivery fee robbers and rebellious soldiers who adopt one-half of those charged by the United the role of highwaymen whenever oppor- States post office. There exists also a tunity offers. One of China's courier lines half-cent stamp, the value of which is can safely be claimed to be the longest of one-half of an English farthing. This its kind in the world. This line, starting stamp may he used on newspapers weigh- at Kwanyintang in the western part of ing one hundred grammes for local de- Honan province, passes through Sianfu, livery, or fifty grammes for domestic de- Lanchowfu, and Tihwafu, the capital of livery ; or on printed matter and com- Chinese Turkestan ; thence it runs in a mercial papers weighing one hundred southwesterly direction to Kashgar. It grammes to be delivered locally. The traverses deserts and crosses mountain parcel fees are very low between places ranges, runs through the thickly popu- with steam communication, but parcels lated province of Shensi and on through for places far inland are subject to pro- wild portions of the country where only gressive rates according to the inaccessi- half wild tribes of nomadic Mongol horse- bility of their destination and the attend- men live. The line is 10,928 li (3,643 ant risks in transmission. The highest, miles) long, the whole distance being cov- however, are still very reasonable. All ered by mounted couriers or men travel- parcels for domestic delivery are sent ing on foot, as conditions dictate, for registered without additional fees, and, fast mails, and native carts or pack-mules for certain offices, may be insured by for the slo wmails. payment of an insurance fee. Notwith- It would naturally be expected, that, standing the remarkably low transmis- in large countries where means of com- sion fees the post office last year paid munication are in an imperfect and un- developed state, the tariff of postage all of its own expenses and showed, as should necessarily be high. Such, how- stated above, a surplus of receipts over ever, is not the case in China, for, gen- expenditures. 338 THE MID-PACIFIC

American education in the Pbilippines is practical. The Y. M. C. A. does its share, in night classes. Musical education is not neglected, and no raw material is turned down as unworthy of effort. An attractive pupil.

American Education in the Philippines

B'1 PRESCOTT F. JERNEGAN Of the Manila Normal School.

HEN the Spaniards made the The Spanish schools in the Philippines first permanent European settle- were in origin and history missionary en- W ment in the Philippines at Cebu terprises, conducted under the direct su- in 1565, several of the native tribes had pervision of the church. The teachers written alphabets. They wrote upon bam- were educated and appointed by the par- boo stems and banana leaves with sharp- ish priest, from whom they received their pointed sticks. In remote districts this scanty pay. Instruction was given chiefly practice still existed at the close of the from a religious catechism. The pupils Spanish rule. Books or literature in the studied aloud, were ungraded, and the proper sense did not exist among the early sexes were separated, the education of Filipinos, and it seems improbable that girls being very much neglected until re- any considerable portion of the population cent times. There was no general plan of had even meager educational attainments. instruction for all schools, no effective

:39 340 THE MID-PACIFIC central bureau of information, few and ing and ordering the text-books. Many crude books, and little or no school equip- officers, among them chaplains, were de- ment. tailed as superintendents of schools, and The University of Santo Tomas was many enlisted men, as teachers. established in Manila, and other higher September 1, '1898, immediately after institutions of learning followed, far in the American occupation, seven schools advance of the establishment of a general were .organized iu Marfila. This first system of primary education. The Span- effort at instruction in English was under ish tendency was to work from the top the direction of Chaplain W. D. McKin- downward, while the American plan in non, U. S. Army. These schools con- the Philippines has been to give the peo- tinued the Spanish methods in general, ple the higher institutions of learning one teacher of English being assigned to only as they become fitted for them. The each school. method of education pursued with the The primary reason for the rapid in- Filipino made him content with merely troduttion, on a large scale, of the Amer- a verbal knowledge. One subject after another was added to his curriculum with ican public school system in the Philip- pines was the conviction of the military indifference on the part of both teacher leaders that no measure would so quickly and pupil to an intelligent and practical promote the pacification of the islands. mastery of the contents. General MacArthur, in recommending a The change from church to govern- large appropriation for school purposes, mental control after American occupa- said : "This appropriation is recommend- tion did not at first prove as beneficial ed primarily and exclusively as an ad as was anticipated. The personal influ- junct to military operations calculated to ence of the priest was no longer as po- pacify the people and to procure and ex- tent, and acted often as an obstructive pedite the restoration of tranquility force. Interest and attendance fell off, throughout the archipelago." and the work in the remoter and smaller villages particularly suffered. About 1000 schools were opened by The insurrection of 1896 and the sub- the military commanders. It was the gen-. sequent revolt of 1899-1901 against the eral opinion of the military officers en- Americans greatly disorganized the work gaged in the task of re-establishing the of education. School buildings were often schools that English should be made the medium of instruction. used as barracks or stables, the furniture destroyed, and habits of school attendance •Many of the military commanders de- broken up. voted a great deal of wisely directed en- It therefore means little to say that in energy to educational work, and the 1897 there were 2167 primary schools in success of the school system is in con- the islands. The entire school system, siderable measure due to their wise and when the Americans began their work, earnest efforts. The standards of Amer- was disorganized ; the buildings and ican civilization were set before the na- equipment missing, defective, or useless, tives at an early date. They were astound- and the barest nucleus of an efficient ed that in the midst of war the American teaching force present. Army displayed such genuine interest in the affairs of education. The schools were Schools Under Military Administration. everywhere received with interest, the General Otis urged and furthered the bitterness engendered by war softened, reopening of the schools, himself select- and the foundations laid for the more THE MID-PACIFIC 341

systematic work which followed under ate the native priest or Spanish friar, to civil rule. prod a lethargic municipal presidente School System Under Philippine (mayor) and town council into action, Commission. and sometimes to go from house to house Originally entitled the "department of persuading the parents of the children public instruction," the school system was to send them to school. In some cases reorganized as the Bureau of Education, that have come under the personal ob- by act 477 of October 8, 1902, being one servation of the writer they have paid the division of the enlarged department of salaries of their Filipino teachers when public instruction, and having as co-ordi- the municipal treasury was empty and nate bureaus the Bureau of Architecture, have sent them to the vacation normal the Bureau of Public Printing, and the institutes, paying their expenses ; have Bureau of Archives. drilled and equipped boys' brigades and By the fall of 19C1, nearly 800 Amer- organized gala processions of children to ican teachers had arrived. increase the interest of the community in The Work of the American Teacher. the schools. They have written plays and staged them, arranged athletic contests, With the arrival and assignment of aided unjustly oppressed peasants to these teachers, English became the only secure justice, fought bandits, persuaded medium of instruction. The experiences the natives to build trails and bridges, of the teachers in breaking virgin ground, exercised a judicious influence in local and devising means and methods for im- politics ; in short, fulfilled; officially and planting a practical knowledge of the unofficially, a variety of functions for- English tongue,, and organizing graded eign to the position of a school teacher schools Out of the fragmentary and cha- in America, but of the utmost advantage otic material available, were unique in in securing the loyalty of the inhabitants the history of education. Too much can to the sovereignty of the United States not be said in praise of the energy and and implanting the ideals of western civ- resourcefulness with which they over- ilization among them. came the handicap of a strange language, or rather a medley of dialects, and broke The work of the teacher cannot be down by patience, tact, and example, the understood unless he is thought of as prejudices of custom, religion, and race ; discharging the many-sided functions, establishing themselves in the confidence other than religious, formerly the pre- of all classes and achieving a success rogative of the Spanish friar. Socially, far beyond what could have been antici- and in his intellectual influence, he is pated. the successor of the man who for cen- The difficulties encountered by the turies was the controlling influence in American teachers in establishing schools these primitive communities of the Phil- in communities desolated and discour- ippines. He has been the quiet mediator aged by war were numerous. Some of of modern ideas, and far transcended the them built their own schoolhouses, made role of a mere pedagogue. He has won the benches, and then taught the children the affection and respect of the Filipino for months Without books, slates, or people as, from the nature of their call- maps. Others taught, under a spreading ings, the soldier and the merchant could tree or in their own houses. One superin- not do. If the children of the Philippines tendent, on opening a schoolhouse, found had learned nothing from books, the per- it inhabited by 45 goats. sonal influence of the American teacher The teachers were obliged to concili- would still have justified his employment. 342 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Kaluaaha Church, first dedicated in 1839.

Brother Dutton's pupils. The tiny triangle jutting from the center of the mat is the Leper Settlement. It is almost inacces, sible save from the sea.

The Happy Molokaians

By E. S. GOODHUE, M.D., LL.D.

Perhaps in all Hawaii there is no place Against it breaks a rather noisy surf, and so beautiful as the little stretch of land during most of the year a vigorous trade on windward Molokai dedicated to the wind blows, the effects of which are seen happiness of its six hundred or more of in the one-sided trees and the good health lepers Behind it are the perpendicular of the residents of the peninsula. cliffs of solid rock, softened by trees, Here at Kalawao, a northern —segment ferns, and waterfalls, a magnificent mass where the original settlement was made, rising in some places as high as 2000 feet, is the little church of which Father Da- and shutting off ingress or egress except mien was curate ; near-by, an iron railing by a narrow trail that zigzags its way to surrounds his grave. The story of his life, the flat and windy top. This trail, though works and tragic death needs no repeat- hazardous for the accustomed feet of ing. "Brother" Dutton, almost equally horse or man, is traveled by the postman well known, lives within a, stone's throw four times a week, and by Many others of the church. Upon a greensward of who prefer to land on the leeward side of native grass are the Baldwin Home build- the island. ings for Brother Dutton's boys, and the The plot of land fronting the cliffs, pupils of four brothers of the church, who which one would think providentially se- devote their lives to the care and better- lected for the settlement established upon ment of these youths. it, is about three miles long by three wide. Brother Dutton is so well known that

343 344 THE MID- PACIFIC a mere mention of his name is all that is hall and stage for private theatricals, necessary. He was a Captain during the billiards and others games, and "movies," Civil War, and later entered the Roman for which films are received each Thurs- Catholic Church as a layman to take up day. There is an electric piano, and in his work on Molokai. the body Of the building enough seats are Following the beach, now rugged and placed for the entire. population of the lava-strewn, now incurved with sand and Settlement. Patriotic banners adorn the fringed by reefs, we pass the lighthouse walls, with local names and mottoes, which nightly sends its gleam upon the "Aloha," "Molokai," "Honolulu," "Ka- wave, southward to Kalaupapa, the set- mehameha," among them. tlement proper. There is a gallery for non-leprous spec- The road, which is a very good one, tators, where it was my privilege to watch easily traversed by automobiles, was com- the movies, and, what interested me far pleted a few years ago through the ef- more, the enthusiastic people below, forts of the superintendent and medical whose appreciation of the scenes appeared superintendent of the settlement, and by to be keen indeed. All was joy, smiles, private contributions. Bisecting streets, and laughter. A spirit of wholesome lanes, and paths are all indicated by neatly mirth pervaded the place, and I came printed signboards : "McVeigh," "Good- away gladdened to know how fully these hue," "Buddie," and other names of sig- people could forget their bodily ills. Old nificance to the residents. men were there, and women, the middle- Among many private residences sur- aged, youths of both sexes, children, mere rounded by pretty gardens, in some cases tots. owned by the leper occupants, are the Here I met many of my old friends, McVeigh Home for white lepers and some of them lepers I had sent to the Set- Portuguese ; Bishop's Home for leper tlement from my own district, and it was girls, supervised by Sisters of Charity ; my privilege before I came away from the Bay View House for blind and other ad- Settlement to have something to do with vanced cases, including five new, well- the discharge of a• number of them. equipped buildings ; the Hospital, where However splenetic this body may feel the attending surgeon holds his remark- on arrival here, a few hours spent in the able clinics, and the nursery where non- colony makes converts of them all, and leprous infants of lepers are taken im- they return to grant generous appropria- mediately after birth. Should leprosy de- tions. Mr. McVeigh is modest, and I will velop, they are given back to their moth- not make an enemy of him by fulsome ers. Oftentimes the child of a leper father flattery. I would say that his predom- and mother is born and taken to the inant characteristic is tact, pervaded by nursery. After a time these children are a sense of humor. discharged and leave the Settlement. As the medical superintendent, Dr. Will In the town proper are three churches : Goodhue, is my brother, and at this time, Roman Catholic, under two priests ; Mor- with his charming wife, my host, it were mon, and Protestants, ministered to by perhaps unbecoming of me to say more native pastors. about him than is already known by in- Besides a settlement store, there are telligent men throughout the world ; but smaller private shops, a bandstand for I feel that in an article of this nature I the local musicians, all lepers, and a new should be doing my subject injustice were music hall and theater. This splendid I to leave out some reference to his great building, 110 feet long by 40 wide, is work here. There is a mistaken idea that well adapted for its purpose, a recreation his residence on Molokai is enforced ; THE MID-PACIFIC 345

that he is a prisoner, confined like his the life here, but I do riot know that it is lepers to the rocky shores of his island. any sadder than, or so sad as, hospital This is not so. He may come or go freely, life, or life in sanatoriums for the tuber- or leave for good. But as he left a lucra- culous. Comfort and happiness smile tive field in medicine because of his in- everywhere. Hope, wall based, indeed, terest in the study of leprosy, so he re- reigns in the hearts of many of the in- mains because of his love for the lepers cipient and milder subjects of the disease, themselves, whom he serves day and and when some who are ready to leave night, skillfully, kindly, conscientiously, may leave, they go with the love and leis with a tender interest and sympathy I of their fellows who remain. have never seen excelled. Naturally, he This is no charnel house, no graveyard is deeply loved by residents in the Set- pasture. Death is no more in evidence tlement, by Hawaiians, Japanese, Chinese, than it is away from here. People eat and Portuguese, Filipinos, Porto Ricans, Ko- sleep and smile and laugh and enjoy the reans, Germans, French, Belgians, and delights of locomotion. The old grow others who are there. older in comfort ; the middle-aged in At the last usual biennial examination marital companionship, have no worry two were discharged, cured, and some about future needs ; the young joy in fourteen or fifteen paroled for longer or their youthful loves. shorter periods before re-examination. A There is no hanging sword, no danger number of others have refused to come of suspicion and arrest. The residents up for examination, fearing discharge and are here because they are lepers. It is subsequent removal from the Settlement, the non-lepers who feel out of place where they have lived for years, perhaps, among their neighbors. No one thinks or and formed intimate relationships. One talks of the disease. The thing to worry cannot blame them, either, for climatically about is an intercurrent malady, or the it would be hard to find a pleasanter poor unfortunate who has tuberculosis. place ; their bodily comforts are supplied, I presume there is no place in the world, food in abundance, and a fair ration in no other leper colony, so advantageously clothes are given them. They may work placed by nature, and I know none is so and earn money, or not, as they please. tactfully and scientifically maintained, so "Where do they get their fine clothes ?" carefully and, conscientiously provided I asked the doctor, "for most of the for, so generously endowed, as the Molo- women, at least, seem to wear the latest kai Leper Settlement. styles." "That is true," was the answer, It is an evolution through a series of "and I think there is no other institution experiences and processes, to be sure, where individuals receive so many gifts and credit is due to many men, boards, from the outside world as our people do and legislatures ; but it must be conceded here. Visitors do not forget us." that the best ameliorative measures are Recently the doctor has selected a plot of comparatively recent date, and are due of low ground, surrounded it by an im- to the initiative of two or three men. pervious wall, and will flood about eight As I sit here watching the evanescent acres for a fish pond. This will be the tints about the sea and cliffs which James only inland body of water on the peninsu- Lane Allen has so well described in his la; and its estab!ishment is giving work to "Flute and Violin," a sense of gladness lepers, who receive from $1 to $1.25 a wells up within me, and I feel that the day for their services. saddest phase of life here is not half so Of course, there is a pathetic side to sad as the strife overseas. 346 THE MID-PACIFIC

Collins street is one of the charming thoroughfares of the City of Mel- bourne, in Victoria, Australia. It is as wide as any Chicago avenue, and is kept scrupulously clean. Federal Houses of Parliament, Melbourne, Australia.

grv Melbourne, Australia's Capital

By J. C. BOYCE. -91e-

MELl RNE, a t present the prosperity exemplified by splendid archi- Federal Capital of the Co tecture and magnificent parks. 1 monwealth of Australia and the Melbourne was originally laid out on metropolis of Victoria, is the most beauti- a grand scale, and her buildings have ful city in the Southern Hemisphere and been designed in keeping with the magni- also one of the wealthiest The streets are tude of her streets. The city is perfect in wide, well paved, and wood-blocked, and its equipment, the drainage, lighting and cable cars run along the principal thor- water supply being all that can be de- oughfares connecting with the suburbs, sired, whilst on all sides are beautiful which are cities in themselves. On all sides are signs of prosperity, not the parks and gardens, so numerous that, prosperity of an ephemeral character so with a population ten times as great as often met with in new countries, but the it is, there would be no danger of conges-

347 348 THE MID-PACIFIC

River Yarra, showing Princes Bridge and the Alexandra Gardens.

tion, or the feeling of overcrowding so £20. From such small beginnings did distressing in old world' cities. Melbourne rise, and the land then bought The city of Melbourne stands on the for a few hundreds of pounds is now north banks of the "Yarra," now a navi- worth as many hundreds of thousands. gable stream for vessels of 7000 tons Great were the fortunes made on the gold- almost to its centre, whilst steamers of fields later on, but greater and more 4000 tons berth at the wharves at the lasting were the fortunes made by, the foot of William street, opposite where lucky or far-seeing speculators who in- Fawkner, at the first land sale held in vested their money in town allotments at Melbourne in 1837, purchased a large the sales held in 1838 and 1839. In the block of land in Flinders street for £32. latter year auction sales were held of This portion of Melbourne was regarded Port Phillip land in Sydney, and Dr. as the pick of the district, and at one sale, Thomas Black, who, prior to attending the same day, Bateman obtained a simi- the sale, had never heard of Port Phillips lar block in William street, opposite the bought the blcck at the corner of Collins present Customs House, for £60. Some street and. Swanston street, on which the 20 allotments enclosed between Flinders, Tourist Bureau stands, for £129. Who Collins, King and William streets aver- can say of what value that allotment is aged £37 each, whilst the site on which today ? It is reported, however, that an Menzies' Hotel stands brought £67. One offer of £250,000 was refused. of the conditions of sale was that the Melbourne was named after Lord Mel- purchaser had to erect on the allot- bourne, an erstwhile Premier of England, ment a tenement worth not less than when the city was founded. From the THE MID-PACIFIC 349

The central passenger railway station, serving the suburbs of Melbourne. outset great wisdom was displayed in stone street are the homes of the big laying out the town, the principal streets stores and retailers, the shops being large, which run at right angles being 99 feet handsomely fitted and lavishly stocked. in width and intersided by smaller streets Melbourne is particularly rich in public bearing the name of the larger. streets buildings which have been built almost with the prefix "Little," thus—Collins regardless of cost. street, Little Collins streets ; Bourke Greater Melbourne, as it is called when streets, Little Bourke street, etc. all the suburbs are embraced, is the city of Collins street runs from Spencer Street town halls, each suburb having a large Railway Station to the Treasury Build- group of buildings where the municipal ings. It is a thoroughfare of which the magnates meet. In the city proper, at city is proud. It is the home of most of the eastern end of Bourke street, are the the big banks, financial institutions and Parliament Houses which the Federal leading commercial houses. The section Legislatures occupy pending the building from Elizabeth street to Swanston street of the somewhat delayed Federal Capitol. is the fashionable promenade, and the The State Parliament is accommodated "Block," as it is called, is the rendezvous in the western portion of the big Exhibi- on a fine day of fashionable Melbourne. tion Building, situated in Carlton Gar- Bourke street, Elizabeth street, and Swan- dens. In the same building big concerts 3 5 0 THE MID-PACIFIC

The extensive exhibition buildings and State Parliament Houses of Victoria.

and banquets are held, and under the bourne stands far ahead of most cities of same roof is also a well-stocked aquarium her age. where orchestral concerts are held every In the vicinity of the bridge the city afternoon. The public library, tech- fathers have excelled themselves in their nological museum, sculpture school and efforts to beautify the city. On both sides national picture gallery occupy a block of of the road are extensive lawns and gar- land extending from Swanston street to dens of palms and other beautiful plants, Russell street, and are equal to similar whilst the wide road itself runs in the institutions in the great continental capi- shade of great spreading English trees. tals. The picture gallery is exceptionally From this bridge along the bank of the fine and contains pictures by the great river runs Alexander avenue, graced on masters. The Trustees have been very the right by a beautiful landscape garden lavish in their expenditures in this direc- and overlooked by a magnificent marble tion, with the result that the walls are statue of Queen Victoria. To the south- adorned with some gems of rare merit ward through the dark pine trees and and price. In the city proper is also the foliage of the Botanical Gardens gleam Royal Mint, situated in William street, the white walls of the Governor-General's and lower down the street are the great home. The soldiers' barracks, a big blue law courts. As an educational center Mel- stone building, in many places ivy-cov- THE MID-PACIFIC 351 ered, faces the entrance to Government the General Post Office, and is reached House, and "Lest We Forget" is a monu- by train and tram. There is an extensive ment in the middle of the roadway erected pier at which excursion steamers call, sea to the memory of the brave Australian baths and the hundred and one oppor- soldiers who lost their lives in the South tunities that go to make a perfect holiday African war. resort. The foreshore from St. Kilda to Melbourne was not a year old when Port Melbourne is an ideal playground the first race meeting was held, and since for children, and the great expanse of that year, 1838, the sport of kings has sunny, sandy beaches are crowded on become the national sport. The Mel- holidays in the summer months. The bourne Cup has done more to advertise beach is only two or three miles from the Australia than many other efforts, and city. With the sea beaches close to the the Flemington Racecourse, where the city to the southward, and parks, gar- great contest is held, has only to be • seen once to be remembered forever. dens and cricket grounds at all other St. Kilda, the fashionable watering points of the compass the citizens of Mel- place, is only three and a half miles from bourne are indeed fortunate.

Gardens view of Princes Bridge over River Yarra. 352 THE MID-PACIFIC Crossing a dangerous bit of snow on Mount Cook—the cloud piercer.

Tragedies of the Southern Alps

By S. TURNER, F.R.G.S.

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T was up the northeast face of Mount so ice-glazed that Fyfe failed to even Cook that M. Zurbriggen is credited recognize it again. I with the first climb of this mighty The route by which Rev. T. S. Green peak. It is by this same snow slope that the tried to climb Mount Cook is up the Linda writer's expedition made the first traverse Glacier, which is behind the east face and of Mount Cook (with Malcolm Ross as rock buttress of Mount Cook. The Linda guest and Peter Graham and T. C. Fyfe). Glacier crawls down from under the sum- We descended by the route up which T. mit of Mount Cook in a northeasterly C. Fyfe made his first climb of Mount direction from a height of 10,000 feet, Cook, but the ridge from the summit was polishing the steep rock walls behind this

353 354 THE MID-PACIFIC buttress and ea$t, face of the peak. avalanche, and were going slowly when All the mountains from Mount Cook I happened to look up to the summit of round to the Silberhorn (about five miles Mount Cook and saw a broad, thick wall of mountain slopes that rise from 4000 of ice break off the precipices from un- feet at the lowest part of the glacier to der the summit. It looked like coming about 1500 feet at the upper end of the over us, so I warned Mr. Dennistoun, glacier) shed their snow and ice onto and we ran on to the last block of the the Linda Glacier, and as the slopes are natural glacier, which is tilted up to- very steep the avalanches are numerous wards Mount Cook. While we were during the avalanche season, which in a running, and before we had travelled six seasonable year would be spring-time. yards, the avalanche had shot past us, For the first 2000 feet the Linda Gla- evidently turned off by this ice block cier is a gradual slope, but after that, (the tilted bed of the glacier), and we where it crawls around the Mount Cook were covered by the particles of ice mist buttress, the ice seems to tumble over caused by the onrushing mass of ice. an outjutting ridge of rock on the bed It had shot down the glacier about half of the glacier, and here the crevasses are a mile in less than ten seconds, such is both wide and deep. The condition of the enormous speed of the ice avalanche the glacier is ruled by the amount of when falling from a great height—it is snow that falls on the high mountain something like the shot out of a big gun. slopes, and it is less crevassed when the It was this avalanche that sent blocks of snowfall is heavy. This also applies to ice over the spot where the body of the ice avalanches. Last winter the snow- late Guide, J. Richmond was found (and fall was very light, and , this small quan- that spot was not 100 yards from where tity of snow sank into the late summer we were standing, although we had no crevasses, but was not sufficient to fill idea of it), and made one crack at his .them up. The spring and up to about head and one at his feet, also scraped the first week in February was cold, and away the ice from off his hip downwards, the sun had not been strong enough to which enabled us to identify the un- melt this snow ; but about the second fortunate guide's body. There is no eek in February the weather cleared, doubt in my mind that this avalanche :Ind a spell Of very warm weather seems prevented our discovering the bodies of to have set the snow melting, and of Mr. King and Darby Thomson, as it course freezing every night, and the ex- would no doubt cover them up, as well pansion caused by the freezing of so as the ice that had already covered them. much water, was sufficient lever to set Their bodies will be revealed by the the ice in motion. A number of avalan- glacier in about fifty years. My reason ches of all sizes shot down these moun- for saying this is that although the tain slopes on to the Linda Glacier dur- Linda Glacier travels at the usual glacier ing the middle of February this year, speed until it gets to the ice plateau, the and the unfortunate climbers who were bodies will remain almost stationary in lost in an avalanche were unlucky enough the ice of the plateau for years owing to to be climbing during the delayed av- the ice itself being almost stationary. lanche season. Although there is a strong current of ice crawling down the Linda and off the face I was climbing Mount Cook by the Linda Glacier the morning after the ac- of Mount Cook, the Mount Cook ice is cident, in company with Mr. J. R. Den- pressing against the Linda Glacier, and nistoun. We had reached the first huge the ice from the semicircle of mountains THE MID-PACIFIC 355

Looking out from Mt. Cook over the New Zealand Alps. from Glacier Dome to the Silberhorn is son was only a normal one for avalanches pressing against both currents. It would but the season just gone was the worst be interesting work for someone to gauge on record for avalanches of both snow the speed of the ice through which the and ice. The rock avalanches have been bodies are bound to come ; then we could very numerous, while nearly every moun- arrive at a fairly accurate forecast as to tain with rock faces and ridges seemed when to look for the missing men. to be showering down stones. Climbing It is surprising that more accidents this year was full of incident, and the have not occurred on the Linda Glacier record of climbs will be very interesting route, seeing this is the route where all, and thrilling when this season's accounts or nearly all, the first attempts to climb come to be written. Mount Cook were made. T. C. Fyfe, the Avalanches occur from many different hero of Mount Cook, and one of the old- causes, but the three main causes are ex- est New Zealand climbers, says that plainable. The rock avalanche is gen- Green's route up the Linda Glacier was erally caused by the melting of the snow always considered dangerous on account and the water running into crevasses in of avalanches. The writer climbed Mount the rock, which, freezing during the Cook by this route in company with the night, expands, bursts the rock away late guide, Darby Thomson and Porter from the main part of the mountain, and G. Bannister. On that occasion we generally comes down after the morning reached the upper slopes of the Linda sun has had the effect of thawing the Glacier before daylight, and sat down ice that holds the piece of rock to the on some avalanche ice and "boiled the precipice. billy." When daylight came we saw huge The snow avalanche shoots down ice seracs up above us on the same preci- when the sun has had time to melt and pices where the fatal avalanche came loosen it, which is generally in the early off, and these seracs looked like break- afternoon. The ice avalanche generally ing at any moment. It gave me the im- crashes down just after sundown, when pression that a climber would be in great the water caused by the thaw during the danger during the avalanche season, day has run into cracks between the ice, which at that time of that year seemed or between the ice and rock on the preci- to have passed, judging from the numer- pices, and has begun to freeze. The out avalanches on the glacier. That sea- freezing makes the water turn into ice, 356 THE MID-PACIFIC and the expansion bursts it apart wide portion of the glacier and snow or from the rock, and releases the av- slopes. After falling about 1000 feet alanche. The old ice does not stick to from the precipices above, although it newly-formed ice, and therefore it is not would sink into the soft snow about six necessary for the sun to come out the to seven feet, the ice would burst and following day and release it, like the spread like a bombshell. I have been piece of rock with its rough surface. asked if I thought there was any care- Ice seracs fall at any time, and are mostly lessness on the part of the party who caused by the pressure from the glacier were lost, and my answer is that they had as it forces the ice over some rough rock shown themselves to be very cautious bed. A climber will see up on the ice men to return off the summit of Mount slopes a break in the ice, and it will have Cook to get back to the Haast bivouac its interesting if not fascinating charm. before nightfall, and had abandoned As it sheds some of its ice he will watch their proposed traverse. The accident it come tumbling down, little thinking was unavoidable, and was one of the two the distance it can travel, and he is unavoidable risks a climber must take. caught and killed, while if he had been The history of Mount Cook shows alert and ran immediately he got the that it is no ordinary mountain, and the warning, he would have been shrouded failures to reach its summit are as many in the ice mist, and felt that fate did not as almost any mountain in the Swiss decree that his time had come. It is Alps. Of the sixteen parties who have mere chance for a climber to be killed been on the highest summit of Mount by the fall of an ordinary ice serac or Cook, only two amateur climbers have a piece of rock during a climb, although been on the summit of the highest peak every climber of the high Alps has many twice—viz., Miss Du Faur and the near calls: The climber knows that it writer ; but several of the guides have would be something akin to fate to be been on the summit more than once. killed by the occasional fall of a serac Thirteen of these climbs have been up or piece of rock, so he forgets the inci- to the summit and down by the same dent except to warn future climbers. route, but three have been traverses— The Mount Cook fatality was not mere the' writer's expedition being the first, chance, as many people are inclined to Miss Du Faur's being second, seven think, except that the parties should have years later, and Mr. Frind's traverse met on the summit of Mount Cook as ar- the next year. ranged, and Mr. King's party should When the first traverse was accom- have been down the Hooker side. I saw plished little was known about the moun- them nearing the summit myself about tain, and there were no expert guides to noon, so they were in plenty of time for be had ; but Peter Graham, who up to the carrying out of the arrangement ; the time of our traverse had only once but even in that case Mr. Frind's party been on Mount Cook, has since been in would have been coming over the same nearly every cimb of any importance snow slopes under the same place and at that has been done in the Mount Cook about the same time, and any time within district, and he is responsible for some fifteen minutes from the time the party climbers getting to the summits of diffi- commenced to cross these snow slopes cult mountains who would have been this same avalanche would have proved very reluctant to trust themselves with fatal. The avalanche was a broad one, any other leader. and, being ice, burst and spread over a Of the amateurs, the writer has THE MID-PACIFIC 357 climbed to the summit twice, which in- well-known climbers have been defeated cludes the first traverse, and has climbed by Mount Cook owing to the weather, once to the third summit. Miss Du Faur while there are several climbers who climbed to the highest summit twice, in- have reached the summit by child-like cluding the second traverse of Mount faith in their guides. Cook, during which her party crossed The bad weather conditions that over the three summits. The late Mr. usually prevail make the mountains much H. Silom climbed once to the highest more formidable than the same moun- summit and once to the third summit, tains would be in Switzerland (quite and the following amateurs have climbed apart from the up-to-date hotels, guides, once to its highest summit : Dr. E. Teich- etc.), and one cannot expect to do much elman, Rev. H. E. Newton, Messrs. R. S. climbing under present conditions in New Lowe, Malcolm Ross (with the writer's Zealand with less than a month at their expedition, first traverse), F. De Guer- disposal. rier, J. R. Simpson, F. Wright, H. Cham- Compared with the Swiss Alps, the bers, F. Gran, Mrs. Linden, the late S. mountains in the Mount Cook district L. King, and H. 0. Frind (third trav- are very much alive, and the climber will erse). There have been twenty climbs see a good many more avalanches and in all to the summits of Mount Cook, be in wilder parts of the mountain world after thirty-one years of climbing, but than he will be in the Swiss Alps. Pos- sixteen of them have been accomplished sibly climbers today in the New Zealand since the writer's expedition made the Alps are climbing routes up mountains first traverse, in January, 1906. which in the future will be abandoned as There is no doubt that most of the too dangerous, but that will be after numerous Alpine Club and other equally more fatalities have occurred

One of the dangers. 358 THE MID-PACIFIC

A part of the grounds of the old Royal Hawaiian Hotel, on which is located the Pan-Pacific Club building.

On the steps of the Pan-Pacific Club house—the home of the Hawaiian Trail ee Mountaineers in Honolulu A Trail CI Mountain Rest House, and the Hawaiian family who built it, 2,000 feet above Hono- lulu, and a two hours' walk from the club house.

The Trail and Mountain Club of Hawaii And the Pan--Pacific Movement

HE Hawaiian Trail & Mountain organizer of the Associated Mountaineer- Club now has its own club-house ing Clubs of North America, Mr. Leroy T in Honolulu, and contemplates a Jeffers, with the hope that a similar Pan- library of mountain climbing and pleas- Pacific association will result. ure tramping in Pacific lands. It would "During the summer of 1915, I visited go further, and even suggest for the Pa- the mountaineering clubs and geographical cific an organization similar to the As- societies of the country and suggested the sociated Mountaineering Clubs of North formation of an association for the further- America, of which the Hawaiian Club is ance of common aims, and for the establish- a charter member. ment of headquarters in New York where There should be a Pan-Pacific Associa- literature and information could be col- tion of Mountaineering Clubs, and the lected and made available. The plan was Hawaiian organization solicits corre- outlined as follows : spondence on this subject. "It was proposed to form an association We will give publication here to the re- of clubs and societies, each. of which shall cent prospectus issued by the secretary and co-operate through its secretary and trans-

359 360 THE MID-PACIFIC

A rest house in the midst of the mountains. act its business by correspondence with ficers, and activities of the leading moun- the general secretary. taineering clubs and geographical societies "It is believed that the existence of this of the continent. The present membership Association will have a valuable influence of the Association comprises the following in many directions, and, occupying the field, organizations : its activities may expand as experience and American Alpine Club—Philadelphia occasion make desirable. and New York. "Meeting with a favorable response to American Civic Association — Wash- the above ideas, I sent out a preliminary ington. letter and received unofficial replies in ap- Adirondack Camp and Trail Club— proval of the plan. At the annual meeting Lake Placid, N. Y. of the American Alpine Club, held at the American Museum of Natural History New York Public Library on January 8, —New York. 1916, I 'presented these letters and asked that the councilors of the club be instructed Appalachian Mountain Club—Boston and New York. to consider the plan and to send out an British Columbia Mountaineering Club official letter to each club inviting it to be- —Vancouver. come a member of the proposed association. "After due consideration, the councilors Colorado Mountain Club—Denver. cf the American Alpine Club sent such a Explorers Club—New York. letter in March to the leading clubs, ask- Fresh Air Club—New York. ing them to join in a Bureau of Associated Geographic Society of Chicago. Mountaineering Clubs of North America. Geographical Society of Philadelphia. Securing a majority of acceptances, they de- Green Mountain Club., Inc.—Rutland, clared the plan in operation on May 2, Vermont. 1916. Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club— "The first official act of the Bureau was Honolulu. the publication in May of a bulletin con- Klahhane Club—Port Angeles, Wash. taining statistics of the membership, of- Mazamas—Portland, Oregon. THE MID-PACIFIC 361

National Assn. of Audubon Societies mounted or unmounted views will be ap- -New York. preciatively recieved." Mountaineers—Seattle. The Hawaiian Trail & Mountain Club Prairie Club—Chicago. has received a number of volumes for its Sage Brush and Pine Club—Yakima, library through the Secretary of the As- Wash. sociated Mountaineering Clubs of North Sierra Club—San Francisco and Los America, and it has made honorary mem- Angeles. bers—while they are on Hawaiian soil— United States National Parks Service of all members of the affiliated organiza- —Washington. tions. The Hawaiian Trail & Mountain These organizations have common aims Club will be pleased to forward those in- in assisting in the protection of natural terested, the latest Bulletin of the As- scenery, of bird and animal life, and of sociation, and the Mid-Pacific Magazine trees and flowers. will be pleased to receive articles descrip- "A valuable reference collection of moun- tive of mountaineering clubs - in Pacific taineering books has been formed by the lands, concerning the work they are ac- New York Public Library in the main complishing or of interesting excursions building at 476 Fifth Avenue, and we have made by members. secured the deposit of the library of the The matter of a Pan-Pacific Associa- American Alpine Club. The combined tion of Mountaineering Clubs is certainly collection promises to become one of the worthy of consideration, and a confer- most important in existence. A collection ence at the "Cross-Roads" of the Pacific of photographs and enlargements of moun- of delegates from these round-the-Ocean tain scenery in all parts of the world is organizations may not be out of place in also being made, and contributions of the near future.

On the trail. 362 THE MID,PACIFIC

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The Cruise of Sydney Harbor

By JAMES WEBB

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YDNEY HARBOR has in its bays. the outer South Head, upon which, at an coves and branches a thousand altitude of 300 feet, stands the Macquarie S beauty spots, not to be detected Lighthouse, elsewhere described. Here nor even imagined when we are merely the rocky cliffs are perpendicular and passing down from the Heads tO Sydney rugged, and the sea at all times breaks in a steamer ; and even in this sense the heavily at their feet. Only a short way harbor is undoubtedly lovely, as it is beyond the lighthouse is "The Gap," a among the two or three most beautiful dip in the cliffs, notorious as the scene of harbors in the world. Viewed from any the Dunbar disaster. Right ahead, as we point in the fairway from the Heads are about to enter, is North Head, a bold, to Sydney, the harbor presents a fine pic- overhanging rocky bluff, rising sheer ture to the eye, and fully justifies the nearly 300 feet directly out of the sea. We pride of the most enthusiastic Sydney are now entering the port, the entrance citizen ; but the visitor who from over- being about one mile wide. On the left drawn accounts has been led to expect a is the inner South Head, a shelving point stupendous and rugged grandeur of sur- upon which, not greatly elevated above roundings will have something to forget the water, is the Hornby Lighthouse. before he can do justice to the real Vessels give this point a fairly wide berth, charms of its scenery, as a reef runs out for some distance. Be- Approaching Port Jackson by sea from fore the vessel rounds the inner South the south, steamers do not, as a rule, Head, the real entrance to the harbor follow the coast line very closely ; but, if appears to be closed by the Middle Head keeping well within sight of the land, the and Dobroyd Point, with North Harbor visitor will observe in succession, Botany and Middle Harbor on either side. But Heads, Coogee and Bondi before reaching our course turns sharply to the south-

363 364 THE MID-PACIFIC ward, and as we are turning we note the fort. The wide bay on the left side of the buildings of the Quarantine Station on harbor is Rose Bay, with Shark Island the high ground close to North Head, and midway across it. Then come, in succes- a mile or so beyond, the town of Manly, sion, Point Piper, Double Bay, Darling with its hundreds of houses, its swimming Point and Rushcutter's Bay, with Clark baths and jetties. Coming round on our Island lying less than half a mile off Dar- course, we bring Middle Head on our ling Point. Athol Bight and Mosman's right, and note the military station and Bay are on the right, and there are gen- fort on the high point, the shore on this erally some steamers and sailing vessels side from here being clothed in bush al- at anchor between here and Neutral Bay. most continuously as far as Mosman.'s The P. and 0. buoy is nearest to Bradley's Bay. Obelisk Bay, not far from Middle Head, and the Orient liners' moorings are Head, is a very pretty cove, with a sandy towards Neutral Bay. We are now pass- beach and a green, grassy valley leading ing, on our left, Garden Island, which up to the bush land of the military reserve, partially closes the entrance to Woolloo- where the timber is of fairly large growth. mooloo Bay. The island is held by the The next point is George's Head, where Imperial Government as a store for naval is another military station. We are now supplies. A conspicuous object is the im- passing the lightship and the reef known mense "sheerlegs" crane, indicating the as the Sow and Pigs Rocks. On our left is position of the works where the vessels of Watson's Bay, and here again are bar- the navy lie up for repairs and refitting. racks and forts. Watson's Bay is per- Woolloomooloo Bay is the first portion fectly sheltered from the weather, where- seen of the commercial port proper, for as the seas break high upon Middle Head here a large number of vessels and steam- whenever easterly or south-easterly gales ers go alongside to discharge and ship are blowing. The station of the pilots and cargo. the health office is at Watson's Bay, and The rocky islet in the middle of the fair- the graceful and staunch little steamer way, surmounted by a round stone fort of Captain Cook lies at her moorings here old pattern, is Fort Denison, or "Pinch- when not outside putting the pilot aboard gut," no longer used for any purpose. or taking him off a vessel entering or leav- The point on the right nearest to Fort ing the port. It is readily seen that there Denison is Kirribilli Point, on which is is a fairly extensive suburb here. On the Admirality House, the residence of the next point on the left is the park-like land Admiral in command of the Australian of Vaucluse and• "Greycliffe," the man- Squadron. Rounding Fort Macquarie, sion of the Wentworth family, descend- we enter Sydney Cove, at the head of ants of William Wentworth, the explorer which is the famed Circular Quay. and the father of the Australian Consti- From the Heads to Sydney Cove is tution. On the right, we are passing rather over four miles, but the harbor Chowder Bay and Taylor's Bay, two beau- extends several miles further, into the tiful wooded inlets, referred to later. In mouth of the Parramatta River. The the former is the Submarine Mining Sta- average width of the harbor may be stated tion, with its red-roofed buildings, and at, roughly, about a mile—less between also a large hotel and pleasure ground, the headlands, and more from bay to bay. known as Clifton Gardens. The point on There is deep water in all the bays and which is a small lighthouse is Bradley's coves, and vessels can lie with perfect Head, where is the Stock Quarantine safety close in to the shore at any place. Station, and also an old and dismantled The total length of coast line of the har- THE MID-PACIFIC 365

bor and its branches is roughly estimated deserved success. There are nearly 200 at 188 miles. birds, and the number increases year by This completes our first general survey year. Already Australian feathers are of the harbor, and the visitor may be as- among the finest in the world, being sumed to have landed in Sydney. fully equal to the best North African, and superior to the Egyptian and South Afri- Circular Quay. can. The feathers are first taken when the bird is seven months old, and after- To the stranger it may give an intelligi- wards about three times every two years. ble indication to say that Sydney, geo- They reach maturity when the ostrich is graphically, radiates from Circular Quay three years old. No pain is inflicted on as a center. Practically the whole of the the birds in the process. They are run into tramway services start from this point, a "crush," at the proper time, .and the and most of the principal streets ( though feathers carefully cut—not plucked—the somewhat split up at the Quay end) also quills being left in until the life goes out commence here, and the ferry routes to of them, when they are removed without all parts of the harbor radiate from Cir- trouble, leaving room for the new feather cular Quay. to grow. At certain times, ostriches may A most interesting trip is by ferry to be seen sitting, the eggs being laid in a Watson Bay, returning by tram, for a shallow depression in the sand, the hen, ferry trip to some other point of interest whose plumage is grey, sitting on them in Sydney Harbor. In this way, returning by day, and the cock bird, who is black, by tram, a stop may be made at the Ost- taking the "night shift." An ostrich will rich Farm, and there is no more interest- not sit on a strange egg, and as the hen ing or pleasant place to visit than this. has a propensity for laying more than The tram conductor will tell passengers she can sit upon, some have to be taken where to alight, and a board indicates the away and hatched in the incubator. location of the farm, on a breezy upland There are a hundred interesting tram facing the ocean. The farm has been es- and ferry trips from Circular Quay, but tablished since 1897, and has proved a they can not all be told about in one story.

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(111. .14S We@d61410161 A map of Sydney Harbor ferries. 366 THE MID-PACIFIC

AllACCEECC=1:=Onr The romantic old windmill and sloop in San Francisco's Golden Gate Park.

The Romance of San Francisco

By FRANK NORTON TODD

ORN a drowsy Spanish hamlet, In the North Pacific the dawn of civili- fed on the intoxicants of a gold zation was slow. The dim light of the B rush, developed by an adventu- sixteenth and seventeenth centuries shows rous commerce and a baronial agricul- us the shadowy sails of the yearly treasure ture, isolated throughout its turbulent galleon bound from Acapulco to Manila history from the home lands of its and sailing down the California coast on diverse peoples and compelled to the its return, a few English privateers lying outworking of its own ethical and so- in wait for it, and little else on that whole cial standards, San Francisco has evolv- waste of water. ed an individuality and a versatility be- The galleon needed a port of call, and yond any other American city. in 1769 Jose de Galvaez, Spain's "visita- It mellowed the Puritan and disciplined dor" in Mexico, knowing the Russians the Cavalier. It appropriated the song and were coming down from the north and art of the Latin. Every good thing that hearing rumors of English and French Anglo-Saxon, Celt, Gaul, Iberian, Teu- approaching from the east, determined on ton or Mongolian had to offer it seized an active campaign for colonizing the upon and made part of its life. coast of California, and especially that

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Bahia de Puerto de San Francisco which of upper California, Padre Junipero Ser- Vizcaino had mapped by that name in ra, arrived, and inspected and blessed the 1603. work. The Spanish plan of colonization had Discovery of San Francisco Bay. three departments : the religious, the mili- Several expeditions were dispatched tary, and the civil, which were represent- northward, to establish stations. One of ed respectively by the Mission, the Pre- these, under command of Don Gaspar de sidio, and the Pueblo. The Pueblo they Portola, governor of the Californias, left called Yerba Buena, after a medicinal San Diego in July, 1769, bound for Mon- trailing vine supposed by the Spanish to terey, but overshot it and fetched the Bay facilitate the advent of fresh population. of San Francisco instead. In 1802 there were 800 Indians at the It was November. The rains had be- Mission. In the main, they were an un- gun. The expedition had been nearly promising breed and have utterly disap- four months on the march. It had been peared. scourged by famine and scurvy. Pro- In 1822 Mexico, with California, be- visions were down to acorns. Portola came independent of Spain. In 1835 Gov- himself was ill. In poor condition, the ernor Figueroa declared the Embarcadero party lingered a few days in the vicinity of Yerba Buena a port of entry, though it of San Franciscquito creek, where Stan- was then only a "landing place for fisher- ford University now stands, while Ser- men and hide droghers," with a tent geant Jose Francisco Ortega, chief of which belonged to the harbor master, scouts, explored the country to the north- Captain W. A. Richardson. ward and thus was probably the first Such were the beginnings of San Fran- white man to see the Golden Gate ; which cisco. The year of the dedication of the appears, until then, to have been remark- Mission and the founding of the Presidio able mainly for the list of great discover- was the year of the Declaration of Amer- ers that had sailed by without discover- ican Independence. The Pacific Ocean ing it. was an unbounded waste. Captain Cook Five years later, 1775, Don Juan Man- had not yet made the English discovery Lieutenant of Frigate of the uel Ayala, of the Hawaiian Islands. There were no Royal Navy, sailed the packet San Carlos, settlements of any size on this coast south otherwise the Toison de Oro or Golden of Alaska. Lewis and Clarke had not be- Fleece, into the Gulf of the Farallones, as gun their work, and there was no Oregon, the roadstead outside the heads was called, no State of Washington, and no British looking for that Port of San. Francisco Columbia. As far as the concerns of which Vizcaino had mapped in 1603 and white people go, there was no Japan. Drake had visited in 1579, and on August China still slept, and practically the whole 5th poked his bowsprit into the Golden commerce of the Pacific consisted of the Gate, the first of all the Argonauts of the galleon which, once a year, passed be- ' western world. tween Acapulco and Manila. After the The following year, 1776, a land expe- time of Portola we hear no more of that. dition commanded by Col. Juan Bautista de Anza, arrived on the peninsula and The Coveted Port. here located the Presidio of San Francisco and the Mission Dolores, as it was called Again in the eighteen-forties, San from the little creek nearby—the Mission Francisco became an objective of inter- of St. Francis of Assissi. The next year national strategy. Small as the settle- the venerable presidente of the missions ment was at that time, the bay was a THE MID-PACIFIC 369 coveted prize in the feeble hands of the The Awakening. infant Mexican republic. California was ceded to the United Russia had retired up the coast, but States in 1848. In March of that year England and France sent expeditions by San Francisco had about 820 people, 200 sea that looked dangerous. At the oppor- houses, a school, a newspaper, and two tune time the United States stepped in as wharves. A fifty-vara lot (137% feet Spain had done before. Fremont had square) north of Market street could be traversed the territory with an "exploring obtained by alcade grant for $16, which expedition" and was at Klamath Lake, in included recording fees. South of Mar- Oregon ; Commodore Sloat was at Mon- ket street a 100-vara .lot could be had terey with the frigate Savannah, and Cap- for $29. tain Montgomery was in San Francisco Within two years there were over 20,- Bay with the sloop-of-war Portsmouth. 000 people in the city, and there were Fremont and his party marched down three daily papers, seven churches, two to Sonoma, where the Bear Flag was theatres and a jail. Steamers were, run- raised and independence declared. ning on the bay, and charging twenty With Kit Carson, Lieutenant Gillespie dollars to take a passenger to Sacramento. and a small party, Fremont crossed the By July over 200 square rigged vessels bay and spiked the guns at the Presidio. had come into port. Within seven and Sloat raised the American flag at Mon- one-half months 697 vessels arrived. terey, and Montgomery landed a party Many were driven on the beach and aban- from the Portsmouth and performed the doned. The whalemen had to quit San same function in the Plaza at Yerba Francisco for Honolulu for fear of losing Buena, July 8, 1846. their crews. Some of the deserted ships From the last mentioned event the became hotels and nineteen were used for Plaza has since been called Portsmouth warehouses. Commercially the city had Square. leaped to the importance of Philadelphia. In 1847 Washington Bartlett, the first It was as though the giant voice of American Alcade, or mayor and judge, some primeval world force, with all the learning that another settlement was to winds of the ocean back of it, had thun- be started further up the bay under the dered 'Sleep no more !" Indeed, with name of Francesca, after General Val- the breakfast eggs at a dollar apiece, cot lejo's wife, and fearing some loss of pres- beds at five dollars a night, and labor tige to his city thereby, declared it was at twenty dollars a day, nobody could afford to sleep. time to drop the meaningless name of In 1849 $2,000,000 in gold was ex- Yerba Buena and call the young metropo- ported and the same amount in goods lis San Francisco: Much was in a name. and coin came back. Gold had been dis- The founders of "Francesca" were forced coVered at Coloma, in what is now El Do- to change their plans, and took the lady's rado county, on January 19th, 1848, and other name, Benicia ; and the ships that by the following fall the rush was on from all over the world, bringing men of all cleared for San Francisco Bay naturally sorts and classes—except the timid and dropped anchor before the city that bore the poor in spirit. And so San Francisco the harbor's designation. was born anew to the world. 370 THE MID-PACIFIC Where the Goddess Pele now resides, Kilauea Crater, Island of Hawaii.

Pele's Pilgrimage

By FRED J. HALTON.

gal0======IMait Y story must necessarily be very legend, and to tour the Islands today sketchy and disconnected ow- with anyone who is familiar with the M ing to the fact that the history legends is to hear a most interesting ac- of the earliest inhabitants of Hawaii was count of the heroes and heroines of for- handed down from generation to genera- mer days, before the advent of the white tion by means of meles or poems with- man. out rhyme or meter, and these are only The Hawaiians were undoubtedly now being reduced to writing. When Polynesians and the earliest records we we realize that the Hawaiian language have indicate that the first settlers land- was first written after the arrival of the ed on Hawaii about 500 A. D. In look- New England Missionaries in 1820 you ing at the map it is very easy for us to can understand that the Hawaiian past see that the Hawaiian Islands are the is indeed dim and misty, in fact is purely "first turn to the left" after leaving San legendary. Francisco, but when we consider the voy- There is not a bay or inlet, a rock or age from the South Sea Islands of about mountain and even the surf in many 2000 miles in open canoes through un- places but what has its own particular known and sometimes tempestous seas,

371 372 THE MID-PACIFIC without compasses and with nothing to mountain called Puka-pele, nearly 4000 guide them but the stars, we must ac- feet high. knowledge that they were' certainly a She next visited Oahu, the Island on hardy race and also daring and resource- which Honolulu is situated, and made ful navigators. her home successively at Waianae, Mo- One legendary mele about 1200 years analua, Punchbowl, and Diamond Head. old tells of the coming of Hawaii-loa. From Oahu she went to Molokai, but This legend tells us that in the seven- she found this Island much too small for teenth generation after the flood Hawaii- her large family and invaded Maui. Af- loa lived on the eastern coast of Kahiki, ter starting several fires on West Maui which we think is Tahiti, and that he she left them in charge of her family was descended from the gods. In his and proceeded to East Maui, where she double canoe he braved the open ocean found conditions very much more to her and sailed under an arch formed for him liking. She built up the beautiful cupola by the rainbow god. It is recorded that of Haleakala (the House of the Sun). five times the moon had changed when Here she worked and lived for ages, but Hawaii-loa, peering into the distance, like in a great many large families of the saw the snow-capped Mauna Kea and present day there was dissension and Mauna Loa towering on the first Island strife, and between them they allowed he came to which he named after him- the fires to get beyond their control, self. Going to the top of Mauna Kea which caused an eruption which broke he saw the other seven Islands of the down the east side of the mountain and group which he called after his children. made it impossible to keep the place To Oahu, Hawaii-loa gave the royal warm. title of Wohi. Pele then moved to her present home He returned to his former home and on the Island of Hawaii and located on brought over his wife and family. the slopes of Mauna Loa and for count- I should really have begun by preced- less ages she has held court there at ing the landing of Hawaii-loa by many Kilauea and at Mokuaweoweo, at the thousands of years and tell you of the summit of Mauna Loa. arrival of the Goddess Pele, or Fire God- It was after she was established at dess, but had I done so we would not Kilauea that we first hear of her many have known how the Islands got their escapades when she could at will assume names. We will trace the arrival of Pele mortal form ; sometimes as a most beau- and her eight sisters, who were all tiful woman and at other times as a fear- named Hiiaka, from the northwest Island ful hag. of Niihau to her present home on Ha- The most interesting story of Pele is waii at Kilauea. The two small Islands that in connection with her love for Lo- of Niihau and Lehue were but resting hiau, a Prince of Kauai, her former home. places and were not seriously consid- She took the form of the most beautiful ered as a home for Pele. She made quite woman in the world and had herself con- a long visit on the Island of Kauai, veyed to the shores of Kauai and there probably some thousands of years, cer- went into the mountains of Waialeale. While resting, she heard the beat of the tainly a longer visit than convention de- drums on the plain of Haena and at- crees today. Her last residence on tracted thither she found the Prince Lo- Kauai was in what is now the Waimea hiau engaged in dancing. She desired Canyon and she left the Island from the to take part in the festivities, so when THE MID-PACIFIC 373

Lohiau chanted the refrain of a song of day. She waited until midnight and then his own composition she took up the praying to Kane, her father, the god of stanza when he stopped to take breath Life, she caused a deep sleep to descend and taking the words as they formed in on the attendants and after performing his mind sang the song. Lohiau was very the sacred rites over the body for several much surprised and enchanted with the nights completely restored him to health. beautiful singer and invited her into the The rejoicing throughout the Island was royal enclosure to take part in the fes- great and many feasts were given in tivities. After a short courtship they honor of Hiiaka, who was known to be were married. While she was enjoying the sister of Lohiau's beautiful wife. her honeymoon the fires of the volcano After months of feasting they set sail had been allowed to die down until there for Oahu and at each Island they were was only a little spark left. She had feasted royally and took part in surf rid- never revealed to her husband that she ing and other sports. All this necessi- was the goddess Pele though he instinct- tated a great delay in reaching Hawaii ively felt that she was no ordinary mortal. and in the meantime Pele was not only He could not consent to a separation even impatient but grew extremely jealous of for a short time. One day she disap- her sister. In a fit of spite she caused a peared and Lohiau caused the whole pop- flow of lava that destroyed the home and ulation of Kauai to turn out to hunt for life of Hiiaka's favorite friend in the her and after many months of weary Puna district. search he came to the conclusion that On reaching Hawaii, Hiiaka saw the she was dead. He brooded so much that smoke of the destroyed district and pro- he refused all food or drink. jecting herself in spirit saw the havoc In the meantime Pele had succeeded that Pele had wrought and sensed the in restoring the fires of the volcano to reason for it. She was nearly heart- their usual activity and later had time broken to find that after all she had done to think of the faithful husband on Kauai. for her elder sister, all the hardships she She perceived that Lohiau was at the had endured to bring Lohiau back to her point of death and filled with sorrow and that this was her reward—the destruc- love, she called her little sister Hiiaka tion of all that she held dear. When and requested her to go to Kauai and she arrived at the edge of the crater at bring the Prince,to Kilauea. Kilauea with Lohiau, in full view of Pele Hiiaka assumed the form of a most and her court she deliberately kissed Lo- beautiful maiden, and with two compan- hiau, whereupon Pele ordered her attend- ions she set forth on her long and peril- ants to burn Lohiau to death, and in ous journey, subject to all the delays and spite of all entreaties her order was final- hardships endured by mortals. She final- ly carried out. It is asserted that Pele, ly arrived at Haena, the home of Lohiau, and found that he had been dead for two realizing her folly and her cruelty, took weeks and that his body was lying in an oath never more to dally in love with state guarded by attendants night and mortals. 374 THE MID-PACIFIC

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By R. H. STRETCH.

. ."There is a land—oh it beckons and beckons; and I want to go back, and I will!" ROM the Puget Sound country of the beneficent influence of the Japan thousands embark during the current. Norway alone can approach it F summer season for the trip to in these respects, but in Norway the scenic Alaska ; and what is Alaska to mountain backbone runs parallel to the the sightseer ? coast line, its rivers are insignificant Alaska is a country, unique in its streams, and there is no room for exten- geographical situation, unique in its cli- sive valleys ; while in Alaska the im- mate, and unique in its physical beauties. mense quadrangle is divided into three Point Barrow, its northernmost cape, is zones by lofty mountains, on more or warmer than any point in the world as less east and west lines, which leave be- far north of the equator ; and its southern tween them broad plains, through which shores, bordering the North Pacific Ocean, are likewise warmer than any such streams as the Kuskokwim with point in the world in similar latitudes, 600 and the Yukon with over 2,000 miles during the winter months, as the result of navigable waters, open up its vast in-

375 376 THE MID-PACIFIC terior. Norway and Sweden are the drifted by, the dead-white face of the ice Mecca and Medina of the European tour- disappears. The new dress glistens with ists, in search of the picturesque and sub- the brilliancy of diamonds, and the lime, and the latter country takes its an- deeper recesses of the facade gleam blue nual toll of American pilgrims on similar as a summer sky unflecked by clouds. sights intent ; but Alaska can discount The charm of the glaciers is never- anything which these countries can ending. You may watch them hour by boast. Its mountains over-top Mount hour, and yet linger for some grander Blanc, the Jungfrau or the Matterhorn ; evidence of their power. Beginning as its glaciers dwarf the Mer de Glace and mist, kissed by the sun from southern its puny associates ; while the fjords of seas ; drifted by the wind to the north- the southeastern archipelago do not suf- land ; falling as snow on the mountain fer by comparison with those of Norway, tops ; welded with other infinitesimal whose grandeur has been embalmed in fragments into an ice unit ; crawling its sagas, and chanted by the annual pro- inch by inch a few feet annually ; carving cession of sightseers ; while all its beau- the solid earth with power irresistible, ties can be seen from the deck of ocean only at last to be torn in a moment of or river steamer without the dust and agony from its associates of a thousand, discomfort .of tedious railroad travel. or many thousand years, and sent drift- Unlike the glaciers of Switzerland ing south, the plaything of the sun and and the Tyrol, which debouch on inland the waves ; only to be resolved into its valleys, and give the observer but little primary elements—is there not tragedy evidence of their tremendous power and in the eternal cycle, repeated through the vitality, the energy of which must be left untold eons of the world's life? Is there entirely to the imagination, the largest not a marvellous illustration of our na- of the Alaskan glaciers, like those in tional motto, "E Pluribus Unum"—one Greenland which give birth to the mons- out of many—in union there is strength. ters of the Atlantic, terminate on the Elsewhere, when weary of the ex- ocean border or interior rivers, with hibitions of a power against which the towering fronts from two to three hun- efforts of man are of no more avail than dred feet in height and miles in width ; those of a fly against a tornado, the peace fronts which are daily pushed forward and silence of the rock-bound fjords, clad by the titanic force of gravity, only to in green, with the snowy peaks of far-off he undermined by the waves, broken mountains, gleaming through the tree down into avalanches of glittering par- tops on the skyline, suggest the delights ticles or huge blocks which fall with of Lotus-land ; picture after picture more a roar of thunder and throw the spray beautiful than anything that the Hud- a hundred feet into the air. son can show, or either Norway or the At the Childs glacier you may loll at Rhine can boast. ease by the river bank on a carpet of If their winding ways are too narrow flowers, while the glacier. splits with a for the wings of imagination, there are noise like a cannot shot or the staccato stosets among them such as no painter reports of small arms, and watch ava- could ever put on canvas, veritable vor- lanche after avalanche start 300 feet tices of flame as though the world were above, driving the water in mighty waves on fire ; or farther north, broad plains up the gravel slope below you as they where the grasses ripple in the wind take the final plunge and float away in and the hills on the distant horizons lie the narrow river. When the mist has like a purple haze, leaving the gazer THE MID-PACIFIC 377 fancy free as to what lies beyond. Even glacier which lines the coast for more the sun is loathe to leave the scene which than a hundred miles, are even more im- his warmth has endowed with life, and pressive than the loftiest of the world's forsakes it only for a few minutes at famous peaks, either in the Himalayas midnight. or the Andes ; for while these rise from Along the Alaska Peninsula the visitor lofty interior plateaus, the sweet of St. may witness in safety the tremendous Elias is from ocean to sky, with nothing pent-up energy of the internal fires ; to break the foreground. islands raised from the bottom of the Surely the scenic beauties of Alaska, ocean one year, only to, be engulfed the whether they be on land or water or of next, as at Bogoslof. Volcano after vol- sky, are varied enough to bring enthusi- cano will daily change the shore line ; asm to the lips of the most blase traveler, first Makushin, then Pogrommi, Shishal- ranging as they do from the sylvan groves din, Pavlof, Katmai, Sivanoski, Illiamna of Sitka, which could satisfy even the and Redoubt will pass in orderly suc- most timid of lovers, to broad plains which cession, rising majestically from 8,000 to whisper of peaceful homes as the years 10;000 feet from the ocean level, with go by ; or from placid fjords where days many others of lesser altitude and notori- drift idly by, to exhibitions of the titanic ety. These are the crowning peaks of a and implacable forc6 of nature in her mountain range, which, dividing to the most terrific moods. • Vast as an Empire, east, culminates in Mount McKinley, there can be no such thing as ennui in 20,000 feet high, north of Cook Inlet ; the ever-changing panorama ; distances and Mounts St. Elias, Fairweather and are forgotten, and the traveler will soon their cold virginal sisters, grim guardi- begin to understand the lure of the North, ans of the northern shores of the Pa- that intangible something which makes cific. These stupendous mountain mass- the Alaskan, cramped amid the environ- es (a mile taller than Switzerland's ment of civilization, repeat to himself, day champion), their feet buried under a by day, "I want to go back, and I will."

From the steamer. 378 THE MID-PACIFIC

There are bearded apes in Java, tailless and manlike, birds with bills that frighten even man, and rodents that are tamer than house cats. Useful animals of Java.

Java's Animals

By WILLIAM HOOGS

N SURVEYING at a glance the in 1833. The ass is not found ; and mules animal kingdom of Java we may are imported and scarce. I observe that from the useful quad- Java has, however, a breed of small but rupeds neither the elephant nor the camel strong, fleet and well-made horses. The is a native. The elephant is found in horse is held in high repute and an elab- Sumatra, and in Java it was used in anci- orate science has been developed to read ent times for travelling and warfare by the character of a horse from little curls the native princes, who up to this day are in the coating. obliged by revered custom to have in Many other kinds are imported : the their stables some elephants, and on the chevaleresque Arab and Persian horses premises horses, woodcocks, certain kinds and the big and strong Australians. The of dove, and fighting birds. The introduc- total number of horses now in Java is tion of the camel has been tried, but in 301,481. The bull and cow ( sapi or lem- vain. This was in the days of the big boe) are general, but more so in the cen- scheme of compulsory agriculture started tral and eastern parts than in the west-

379 380 THE MID-PACIFIC ern. The people of Madura especially ant-eater, which has nearly the same skel- are good cow-breeders. The total num- eton as the South-American species, but ber is 2,864,195. The breed has been a very different coat indeed. Chiroptera greatly improved by the introduction of are here in great variety, among them the Zebu from British India. In the the big kalong (Pteropus edulis) which western part of the island especially, but feeds on fruit. Prosima are rare in Java, also in the center generally, the cow is and still the lori is here at home. Monkeys replaced by the Javanese buffalo ( kar- are to be found in great numbers. Maca- bau) which is of much use in ploughing cus cynomolgus, Semnopithecus maurus the soil. Their number is 2,366,635. and Hylobates leuciscus are well known. Neither cow nor buffalo are kept for dairy Amphibia are represented by frogs, tree- products by the natives. frogs, kongkangs and Reptilia in great Goats are numerous. Sheep are scarce. numbers. The Saurii are represented by The wool is very coarse and not very the huge crocodile, the rather innocent desirable, there being a rational aver- Varanus on the skull of which the whitish sion in this sultry climate to dress pro- pearl of the "third eye" may be seen cured from the animal kingdom. Cotton ( which perhaps gave rise to the Javan- is the time-honored material for making ese folk-lore about serpents with a dia- clothes. mond on their head) down to the small tjetjak, which is a welcome guest in the Of beasts of prey several species of houses where it lives and snaps mosqui- the tiger may be enumerated, from the toes and small insects from the walls. royal tiger (Felix tigris) down to a small tiger-cat. As long as the tigers do not The biggest of the Javanese serpents attack men they are respected as "the anci- is the Python retioulatus ( oeleo sowo or ents of the forest,'1•the word tiger ( me- santja) which is held in reverence as the yong, matjan, si-mo or ari-mo, the second watcher of the rice field, where it destroys of these names means "the death" the the mice. This, as many other varieties, others are onomatopoetic) is not even is not poisonous. Water-snakes (Trop- whispered in the woods in order not to ido-natus), tree snakes (Dendrophis) attract their attention. The "man-tiger" and others are innocent. To the danger- plays a role in the popular belief as ous kinds (but they will not attack men the were-wolf in Europe. Several varie- unless disturbed) belong the Bungarus ties of wild dogs are found, boars and (oelo welang and weling), Naja sput- stags abound. The rib-faced red deer is atrix (oelo lanang) and many sea-snakes. a very lovely creature and the hero of Turtles and tortoises are found in land folk-lore, as is the small kantjil. The and sea varieties. Amongst the latter is wild banteng still sporadically roams the the penjoe which supplies the native in- forests and plains. The biggest quad- dustries with fine tortoise-shell. The eggs ruped is the rhinoceros of which the Jav- are prized as food. Fishes are found in anese species has only one horn, the Su- lakes and rivers and a huge number in matra variety having two. This horn is the Java Sea and the Indian Ocean. much valued as an antidotum. Many Whales (Physeter) frequent these oceans Rodentia are found in the houses, the as well as Zygaena and Carcharias glau- rice fields and the woods. In Western cus, much dreaded in all the harbors. Java a kind of hare (Lepus nigricollis) The duyung (Halicore dugong) which has been introduced. Mice are repre- belongs to the Mammalia like the whale sented by several varieties. The Edenta- has been the prototype of all the old leg- ta have a representative in the Javanese ends about sirens. Its tears are sold in THE MID-PACIFIC 381 small China cups as an aphrodisiacum. A sleeping on the floor or some matting in very remarkable animal belonging to the the open air. Huge but innocent spiders Crustacaea is the Mimi-mintoena (Limu- are seen in webs or on the ground. Great lus spec.) of which generally a couple is beetles abound as well as gorgeous but- found together. This double animal has terflies. The chrysalis of the large Atlas found a place in the Javanese zodiac affords a coarse silk. Among the domes- where our Gemini are. tic fowls are the ducks, of several varie- Crabs and scorpions and centipedes ties , and other poultry reared by the are quite numerous. A well known Jav- Javanese especially for the eggs, they anese saying runs : "The snake's poison scarcely taking any other animal food, may be found in the head, the scorpion's except on festivals, than fish (imported in its tail, but where is its place in a in large quantity from Siam and Sum- wicked man?" Insects are a great atra). Among the birds of prey there nuisance. One of them, the walang san- are several varieties of falcons and owls. git, is most destructive to the rice while Of the parrots there are two only, the in the ear. Mosquitoes have the rep- betet (or ekek) and srindit (Palaeornis utation of spreading malaria. Europeans alexandri and Loriculus pusillus. in Java keep them out of their beds by The peacock (merak, manjura) is very means of mousseline curtains, which cus- common in large forests. Grallatores and tom is being adopted by well-to-do nat- Columbinae (doves) are quite numerous, ives, though many of them do not mind as many other kinds of birds.

The kind of country Java is. 382 THE MID-PACIFIC

II bit of rough and tumble lava—Hawaiian natives and scientists call it aa.

Great Lava Flows of Moho-Kea

By VAUGHAN MAcCAUGHEY.

9rk

7 had left the Volcano House map of Hawaii which we had with us we behind and were ascending learned that this vast river of horrid a-a v\, Mauna Loa, a climb of nearly had burst from a crevasse in the upper 14,000 feet, the second highest island peak slope- of Mauna Loa, at an elevation of in the world, its twin, Mauna Kea, being 9,500 feet above the sea, just below the the highest. volcanic cone of Puu Ula-ula. After walking for an hour and a half, The surface of this sheet is excessive:y and having progressed nearly five miles rough. It appeared to be made up entire- on our day's journey, we came to the ly—so far as we were able to examine it ancient lava-stream of Ke-a-moku. The —of a-a fragments. These varied in government road runs obliquely across size from small pebbles to huge blocks the flow for a distance of several miles, the size of a house, and were piled in an so that we had no difficulty in observing unbelievably chaotic and Dantesque tu- its structure at close range. From the mult. As we gazed about us on the bleak

383 384 THE MID-PACIFIC forbidding waste, we were overwhelmed destroyed by the hot lava or carried out by the feeling of immense confusion and to sea. jumble. The surface is jagged and prick- Mr. Ellis gives a picturesque and ac- ly in the extreme, presenting everywhere curate account of the origin of this not- a multiplicity of sharp cutting edges. As able flow, and speaks of the country Ed comically suggested, "Now I know around as follows : how a snail would feel if it had to crawl "Although the surface of the whole across sandpaper." country had a volcanic origin, it seems to At several places along the road we have remained undisturbed a number of walked out onto the lava for a short dis- years, perhaps ages. The lava is decom- tance and examined a number of the posed, frequently a foot in depth, and is larger blocks. Some of them contained mingled with a prolific soil, fertile in veg- many shining olivine crystals—small etation, smiling in verdure." dull-green, glassy particles imbedded in This country is no longer "generally the rock. cultivated" nor "smiling in verdure" ; the kindly people that welcomed Ellis and The Lava Flow of 1823 his friends have become well-nigh ex- Presently we became aware of an ex- tinct; we crossed a barren and depopu- tensive lava bed to the southward, on lated land. the lower side of the road. Reference A group of gnarled lehua trees by the to our map showed it to be the upper road afforded us shade for rest and lunch. portion of the famous 1823 flow, of Behind us, as we lolled back against the which mention has been made already. blanket rolls, the slumbering dome of This lava-stream, unlike that of Ke-a- Mauna Loa ; before us, the distant shim- moku, is composed of both a-a and pa- mering sea. Above, the dark zone of the hoe-hoe. It poured itself out from an pathless forest ; below, the trackless plain elevation of about twenty-four hundred of ominous black lava. A unique coun- feet in a spreading, curved river of molten try, without counterpart in all the lands rock, down the eight-mile-long arid de- that be ! We ate leisurely, after which I clivity, and finally over the cliffs and read from the Nineteenth Book of Ho- into the sea. It covers an area of about mer, beginning: sixteen square miles, and surrounds the "The morn arose, and from the Ocean, ancient cone craters of Ke-ala-alea. in her saffron robe, William Ellis, in his famous missionary Gave light to all, as well to Gods, as tour of the Island of Hawaii in the sum- men of th' under globe." mer of 1823, made a side trip from Ka- papala and visited this flow three months Old Half-Way House after its eruption. He had been told by At one o'clock we resumed our way the natives who accompanied him, that towards Ka-papala. Within the next the fiery and savage volcano-goddess mile we came to the site of the old Half- Pele had violently issued from one of her Way House:for many years the home of rocky habitats and had suddenly over- the hospitable Dolways. It is now recog- flowed the lowlands of Ka-papala? Upon nizable only by the ruins of an old water reaching the beach the torrential lava- tank and a ragged clump of mournful cy- river had swept a huge stone, one hun- press trees. Gone the reality—the name dred feet in height, out into the shallow Old Half-Way House, will long cling to water, where it was still visible. Several this otherwise featureless and insignifi- canoes, at the same time, had either been cant spot. This district is covered with THE MID-PACIFIC 385

sparse and stunted forest, while to the clouds of white vapor some distance south west are grassy plains. of the Ka-u Road. He and his party, Evening at Ka-Papala Ranch filled with curiosity, turned their horses in the direction of the cloudy pillars. In The next five miles passed without half an hour they came to the edges of special incident. Then we came to the new and enormously deep crevasses in main gate leading to the Ka-papala Ranch the pa-hoe-hoe floor of the plain. The House. We turned in here and soon the largest of these rifts varied in width from rambling edifice, with corrugated sheet- eight to twenty-four feet and was over iron roof, gradually disclosed its genial six hundred feet long. Adjacent to and countenance. Evening was drawing parallel with this great fissure were near, and we were glad to avail ourselves numerous smaller cracks, from which of the hospitality extended to us through steam was also issuing. These cracks Bamie's preliminary letters. were all so deep that no bottom could The Steam Cracks of 1868 be seen. At night the columns of steam The morning was clear and fair, with glowed ruddily from the reflection of the cloud banks across Mauna Loa and in incandescent molten lava that lay deep the direction of Kilauea; At breakfast in the chasms. we made inquiry concerning the famous Lava Flow of 1868 "Steam Cracks of 1868," south of Ka- papala, which were not shown on our Shortly after Dr. Hillebrand's inspec- map. Mr. Larinson, however, had visited tion, the subterranean matter came vio- them many times at "cattle round-ups," lently to the top of the main crevasse. Its and was able to give us specific directions first spurt rose just back of the Half-Way and a rough sketch of the district. House, and covered three acres. Half a Leaving our heavy equipment at the mile below this point it again spurted up ranch-house, for we planned to return through the crack and ran out for several there by noon, we started seaward and hundred feet. Finally, at a point about soon reached the volcanic crevasses. a mile above the coastwise fault pall the These fissures extend from the western vent suddenly opened along its entire edge of Kilauea to the Ka-papala Ranch, length. The lava in a gigantic wave thir- a total distance of fifteen miles. In the ty or forty feet high rushed out towards memorable spring of 1868 there occurred the sea. From this point and all along practically simultaneously, the great Ka- the rift for miles the molten lava was huku lava flow from the lower flanks of thrown high into the air, and formed Mauna Loa, the torrential "Mud Flow" numerous spatter masses. As. Mr. E. D. above Maka-kuhu, the devastaiing "Tidal Baldwin aptly remarks, these masses Wave" that ravaged the Ka-u coast, the ludicrously resemble "old mud pies, we disappearance of the great lava lake in used to make when boys."' Hale-mau-mau, and the sudden extensive We explored this country for some • rupturing and fissuring of the Ka-u Des- time, and although the topography was ert. Truly a cataclysmic group of island rough and irregular, due to the inter- convulsions—of kindred origin, though calated lava streams, the absence of our differing widely in outward manifesta- heavy packs made the walking relatively tion. easy. At mid-morning we returned to When this region was visited by Dr. the ranch-house, shouldered our blanket Hillebrand in April of 1868 he saw dense rolls, and started up the ranch road. 386 THE MID-PACIFIC

It took Filipino, Hawaiian, and American labor to tattoo this back. In fact. from neck to the soles of the feet, "Jack" Gould is tattooed. Literally, he has spent a fortune on his hide. A Maori with tattooed chin.

Tattooing

By CHARLES A. STANTON

AWAII possesses in Jack H. G. A study of the origin and development Gould, the most tattooed man in of this ancient custom would embrace H the world, and he is not a Poly- the life and practices of every race of nesian but a Caucasian soldier in Uncle people. The name comes from the South Sam's army. There is hardly a square inch Seas. There is a Tahitian word, "Tatu," of Gould's body that is not tattooed, and meaning marks in the skin. This was no the design on his back, put on in Honolulu doubt converted by the old voyagers into during many patient months, is perhaps the word by which we now know the art. the most complete piece of tattooing in In the days of our seagoing ancestors, the world. there were many religious superstitions Tattooing, or making pictures in the connected with the practice. Strict obli- skin with colored inks, is a custom that gations were imposed by certain pictures. antedates the seafaring man ; but it be- Should a man bearing a Crucifix on his came universal among sailormen, and, for chest be cast away in a Christian land, centuries, has stood as the sign of the the picture was taken as evidence of his "Brotherhood of Neptune." faith : while a Jerusalem Cross on the

387 388 THE MID-PACIFIC body would cause the fanatical followers In Borneo, Siam, Samoa, Fiji, Aus- of Mohammed to respect the stranded tralia, New Zealand, the Marquesan Isl- stranger. A pig tattooed on the foot was ands and among all African people the supposed to prevent death by drowning ; custom of tattooing was very prevalent while the man who bore the words and had more or less to do with religious "H-O-L-D F-A-S-T" on his hands, each worship as well as social standing; letter being printed on a different finger, though in Fiji only the women were tat- would never fall from aloft. This design tooed. It is still practiced extensively in has been worn by English sailormen since the same countries, but the religious the words were coined. theory seems to have been pretty well ex- The earliest method of tattooing con- terminated by the missionaries. The cus- sisted in cutting the desired figure in the tom of placing the tribe mark on the right skin with a shell, or sharp instrument, and left shoulders of Borneo warriors is and irritating the wound, as it healed. still practiced largely and is sometimes This treatment resulted in a raised scar placed on favored strangers. The Bur- on the outlines of the original cut. mese continue to wear the sacred tattooed At the present day, the work, with its dragon, but done now with less tortur- patrons and exponents, offers an endless ous instruments. The Marquesans for- merly had such a barbarous manner of variety. There is the Filipino head- doing their tattoo work that it often took hunter, with his fish-bone points and nearly six months to heal that which had betel-nut color ; the savage Maori, with his crude scars ; the South Sea cannibal, been done in a single day. They covered with his heavy blue lines and spots ; the the whole body of the males with crudely Anglo-Saxon tourist, bearing on his white imitated rough designs, circles, curves skin the fancy designs of expert Japan- and many designs of small work, includ- ing round and angular spots, even to the ese artists, and the American hobo, with his wet coal and brick dust, pricked into finger nails and the top of the head. Thus, beginning at virility, some were upwards the skin with common pins. of thirty years old before their' tattooing The motive that leads one to have a was completed. Marquesan tattooing was dragon or butterfly pricked into the skin perhaps more remarkable in appearance in fancy colors probably springs from than that of any other primitive race. the same spot in the human brain that The Marquesan women, however, had gives birth to the desire to have one's ears very little tattooing. punctured for ear pendants, or to force The custom of skin decorating does a number three foot into a number two not seem to have been popular in Ha- boot—any person who does the one, waii, as in other Pacific islands. How- should excuse the other. ever, widows had the name of their de- War pictures on the body were com- ceased husband pricked into their tongue mon to all American Indians, but this was with a thorn, and lip coloring was com- not always tattooed into the skin. How- mon. ever, many tribes tattooed the tribe sign, The Maori men of New Zealand dec- and the Northwestern Indians tattooed orated their faces with heavy lines and the tribe totem on nearly every one. scrolls, which greatly added to the fero- Among the Alaskan people it was con- city of their appearance and placed them sidered a necessary religious rite, and those not having the totem of their tribe on a level with their tribesmen in mat- on them were supposed to be in danger ters of religious and social standing. The of losing all happiness in the future life. tattoo process was as follows : Having THE MID-PACIFIC 339 arrived at the age of manhood the young sidered eligible for marriage before hav- man was separated from his family and ing.their backs tattooed. tribe and required to live out in the open In New Guinea the girls were tattooed in care of the tattooer. all over, except the face, which was re- At one time Maori heads were served until marriage. And in the Solo- much sought by museums, but are very mon Islands a girl was not eligible for scarce now, because of the decline of face marriage until she had been tattooed on tattooing. The Maori women were not the face and chest. Formosans also tat- tattooed like men, but had two blue lines tooed the faces of their young girls be- encircling the mouth as a sign of mar- fore .marriage. In Malaya tattooing was riage, and usually colored the lips a blue allowed as a reward for successful head- tinge. The white man's method of tattoo- hunting. The Aztecs of Mexico allowed ing is very popular among the New Zea- tattooing only to heroes and others of landers at present, and they will offer especial distinction, and it was the duty large prices for brightly colored electric of the doctors to make the tattoo.• In work. The Australian aborigines marked Samoa tattooing was required of all men the thigh with a rough tribe mark called and most women. While being per- "kobong." It showed courage, as well formed in a ritual manner, the friends as tribe membership. When a stranger and relatives of the patient would gather was adopted into the tribe he was re- outside the tattooer's house and accom quired to prove his courage before receiv- pany the outcries of the patient with ing the mark. Young girls were not con- singing and beating of drums.

The Samoans tattoo their legs in lieu of clothing them, it is cooler. 390 THE MID PACIFIC iici=ail=aca:=3:===:=L )==alt==in3:a

Every tenth of a mile along the trail leading to Haleakala's Summit is a sign-board telling the distance from the rest house at the rim of the great crater. Heavy fogs make these sign-boards necessary.

This little accident nearly caused our young cyclists to lose the steamer for home.

Meandering On Maui

By WOODS PETERS

11:1=071LEMrili

F Mark Twain and Jack London then after a momentary pause, swept in failed—as those who have seen it again, filling the "House-built-by-the- I say they did—to do justice to the sun" from wall to wall with the finest of grandeur and beauty of Halekala, earth's lace. We lingered for an hour, and then vastest crater, surely I will not attempt prepared for the return. that which is so far beyond me. A Race. We were up early to watch the sun- rise, and sitting there on the brink of the As the Emersons (whom we had met great crater, we could see the clouds the night before) insisted on taking our slowly drifting from the sea to the packs on their horses, we decided to race further edge, and then pour over into them down. the crater in a Niagara of foam. Then Starting when they were ready, we the sun came up and peeped through the soon gained a lead of over a mile and clouds as they struck the edge, turning considered it safe to stop for a four- them to all colors of the rainbow. minute rest half-way, down. But another Soon the clouds dissapeared, giving us half-mile showed our folly, for the horses an excellent view of the crater floor, were seen on a distant ridge, fully three-

391 .392 THE MID-PACIFIC

fourths of a mile ahead of us. They had old-fashioned trout stream, on the other, taken a short-cut, unknown to us, thus and that night, as the light faded, we cutting off nearly two miles of the trail, jumped in its roaring waters for swim but after a two-mile run, we again had number two. the lead, and finished the eight miles in Glowing with the reaction, we slid into two hours, to the minute, winning the our bags and slept ! race by fifteen minutes ! CHAPTER IX From Olinda P— determined to take a trail back to Makawao, while I Eighth Day—The Ditch Trail thought I would try the automobile road, The morning of our eighth day came much to my later sorrow, for it proved with a scurry of clouds and a flourish to be the longer by nearly three miles. of rain. But soon after daybreak the sun About half-way down I met two strings broke forth and all morning we tramped of oxen, seven pairs in each, yoked to by rushing torrents under a shimmering two two-wheeled carts. Each cart con- forest. tained a few bags of flour or some like Waterfall after waterfall and cascade material, an amount which could easily. be after cascade came before our gaze and carried by the two horses needed to drive passed. Soon we had climbed to the ditch the oxen. level and for the rest of the day we CHAPTER VIII wandered along its grassy banks. At 4 p. m. we came out of the wilder- Overland Seventh Day— ness upon civilization—but such civili- Morning found us quite empty under zation it was ! The once beautiful Ke- the belt so we hiked back to the Japanese anae Valley lay spread out beneath us, restaurant for a last meal, one that would torn here and there with masses of gray have to last three days. rocks and sheet-iron buildings. As we were apparently regular custom- A continual boom and roar of ma- ers then, the landlady promoted us from chinery rent the stillness ; the song of the front room where most of her patrons the birds and water was gone ; the sooth- ate, to a private, well-screened one, shut ing colors of the forest had given place off from all intruders, or otherwise ob- to the glare of mankind's progress. "It jectionable characters. is needful for the furtherance of civiliza- And then we headed overland for Kai- tion," you say? Perhaps so, but give me lua and the famous Ditch Trail. the land known only to barbarism, for All morning we hiked, each mile be- true beauty, rest, and pleasure are there. coming a little longer than the last, up Slowly we descended the winding trail, and down, over scorching roads and and as it was nearing supper time, I sug- through cool rivers—and let me tell you gested to my companion we try for a the rivers of Maui are no mean creeks, heal. especially during a rainy spell—until we The only promising place visible was entered the forest region. a Japanese working-crew house, so we Just before reaching Kailua, a grove applied. "Chow=chow ? A'-right," • and of ohias drifted into sight, whereupon we we thankfully sank down at the end of feasted upon mountain apples till we a long board table. Then we continued could scarcely move. on our way to Hana. Two miles farther, just on the ditch Just beyond the camp we missed the trail, we camped, with the trail on one trail and wandered through thorn bushes, side and a mountain torrent, a genuine, swimming icy torrents for nearly an hour THE MID-PACIFIC 393

before regaining our trail, wet, shivering, Hana beach before breakfast, and it cer- and disgusted with ourselves generally. tainly was fine—when we got out. Slowly we climbed from the canyon, Early this morning we dug out of Hana and just as the sun sank over the western and hiked through rain, mud, and run- rim, we pitched camp on the point of the away rivers back to Keanae, arriving ridge overlooking Keanae and the ad- there just in time for lunch. jacent valley. Then for three hours we wandered CHAPTER X along pa/is where a single step would Ninth Day—Wreckage and Rescue have dropped us one or two hundred feet Morning came with wet bags, blankets, into the boiling surf. clothes, shoes, leggins, food, and worst Toward evening we again struck a of all, rain ! Breaking camp at 5 :30 we large ditch and with it rain. Unwilling paddled along the trail for three miles to spend another wet night, w e looked and had breakfast, then two more until about for a good camping-place, and soon we hit the road. Incidentally, the map found one, but with a ten-foot ditch in- said these last five miles (by the mile- tervening. posts) were only two ! A large cave had been dug in the bank Tired, wet, cold, and with blistered across the stream to procure earth for arms from the previous day's exertions, the dyke on the lower side. This looked we were almost past moving and still as though it would make an ideal camp- had the prospect of thirteen miles be- ing place, but how to reach it was a prob- tween our dilapidated selves and the lem, until 13— spied a twelve-foot board, thriving metropolis of Hana, when pleas- lying by the trail. We dropped this over ure of pleasures ! a half-mile from the the ditch, walked across, and pulled it in end of the road we came upon a Japanese after us, thus making our castle secure. house that contained a telephone. We turned in early and had been sleep- Right here may I offer a valuable sug- ing for perhaps three hours when a most gestion to all 'phone companies. Explain terrible scream shattered the peacefulness the manner of working your instruments of the night. Groan after groan and in your call book. For fully thirty minutes scream after scream swiftly followed un- I puzzled over that machine before I suc- til what seemed a quarter of an hour had ceeded in getting through to Hana. The passed. central there, after profuse explanations, In desperation we stealthily arose and connected me with Joe C—, one of my investigated the cause of the unearthly schoolmates, who was very soon speed- racket. On the bank opposite us stalked ing through the rain to rescue us. twelve or fifteen wild cattle bellowing Now Joe is decidedly large and I am forth challenges by the wholesale. somewhat in the other direction, yet I Twelfth Day—Friends Again. managed very successfully to wear his • Our twelfth day on Maui came with a clothes until I had time to visit the city's gust of rain and a hasty decision to re- dry goods box (box used advisedly) and main in our cave for the day. The con- replace those of my own I had demolished. sideration of the fact, however, that the The afternoon we spent re-equipping morrow would in all probability be the ourselves, and then, tired out, we went same, thrust us out for a dash to Maka- to our rooms for the night. waO. Keanae and Beyond With our breakfast of pork and beans Joe awakened us at 5:30 a. m. so we eaten, we lowered our drawbridge and might have a swim on the famous ( ?) swung out into the cold morning air. 394 THE MID-PACIFIC

After an hour of rain and mud, we We then visited the Puunene swimming passed Kailua, going strong ! Another tank, the best. I've seen anywhere, and hour and we were on comparatively dry here enjoyed an hour of recreation. roads (mud here not over four inches After leaving an order for a new tire deep). We continued to slush along in to be ready at noon, P. and I struck out this manner until 10:30, when the temp- for lao and "The Needle," which was al- tation of a dry noon hour in an empty most obscured by the tall trees which had school house proved too strong and we grown up about it, but by climbing one stopped. of the largest of them I succeeded in get- But another hour saw us again swim- ting a fine photograph of the Needle and ming mud puddles—still going strong the adjacent valley. for Makawao. By this time our feet When I returned to the bicycle shop I were sore, our packs had increased to found my wheel ready, so we immediately twenty-five pounds, and the mud was struck out around West Maui, passing —oh, so many feet deep. rugged Waihee Valley, and pushing on At the foot of a long hill a mile or so into the cattle lands of the north. beyond we met a rent machine taking We reached the end of the road and some Japanese home from some high the beginning of the trail to Kahakuloa falutin' doin's, so we held a council of just before dark and camped there in a war and held up the driver on his return. deserted house left by the workmen. "No, he couldn't take us to Makawao, Sixteenth Day—Doubling South. but he would take us as far as he could, free!" We jumped in, fell on his neck, This day came with an overcast sky, a and almost kissed him ! patter of rain and a dangerous trail. A skiddy ride of four miles followed From the end of the road the trail along and we again walked, but we were rested the pa/is to Kahakuloa seemed so danger- and it wasn't so bad. At any rate we ous we decided to return to Lahaina reached our destination at 3 :15 p. m., had and the steamer across the isthmus—the a last meal at the Japanese restaurant, and regular route. repaired to Hollis H--'s for our wheels. After a half hour's climb we reached The family happened to be home and the summit of the trail and started coast- insisted (we had hoped that they would) ing down the slope we had so laboriously upon our spending the night, and we con- climbed the previous day. sented. My companion had some trouble with his pack strap, and I was leading,'having Fourteenth Day—Kainani. come perhaps two miles from our camp, This day opened with a swim at the when, with a sickening lurch and skid, "Kainani" beach and a real breakfast of my rear wheel crashed from under me fruit, mush, bacon and eggs, hot biscuit and I brought up at the edge of an eighty- with honey, and milk. ' foot drop. The rear rim, which was After which Miss S took all of the weakened by the crack made the day be- children, including ourselves, for a ride fore, had given way under. the strain and in her machine to Puunene, where I had was now but a bundle of splintered wood, the opportunity of going through the twisted steel and tangled rubber. Puunene sugar mill, the largest in the The nearest bicycle shop was in Wai- world, visiting the laboratory and seeing luku, twelve miles distant, so we decided the methods used in testing the sugar. to make camp right there. P. stripped his All sorts of instruments from tubes to machine to the lightest possible condition, spectroscopes are used in this work. I strapped my ruined wheel to it, and de- THE MID-PACIFIC 395

parted, racing against time that we might twinkling. It is a last farewell message reach Lahaina even yet to catch the from P.'s flashlight, speeding me on my steamer. journey. "So long. A good voyage. See Wailuku was made in just fifty minutes, you in another month." The light is gone. and, with desperate urging, a new wheel The land, dim in the last waning moon- was completed in. an hour and a half, light, is sinking. Far over head an emer- then I raced back on my return journey. ald radiance floods the night. Quick, a The afternoon we spent in coasting wish ! May others, many others, be per- across the isthmus and pedaling over the mitted to visit the wonderful places we pa/is, passing again through the broad have seen these last few days. Splash ! cane fields of the Olawalu plantation, with The meteor strikes a half mile distant the steep slopes of the West Maui moun- and the sky is dark after the sudden light. tains in the rear, and on to our first camp- ing ground, three miles from Lahaina. * * * * * * P. ran into the town with mail, and, Far ahead a light gleams. Land ! while there, had supper, bringing back Oahu! Home ! Morning comes and we a piece of cake for me. With the falling slip along past Waikiki, into the harbor, of darkness we went for a last swim, and land. then, even as we had done on our first Reveries. night there, rolled up in our blankets, dropped the mosquito net, and slept. My trip is finished. That glorious last night, and many others like it, have come Seventeenth Day—The Welded Ring. and gone. The trail has been traveled and Unhurried, we rose long after the sun I am home ! Perhaps I shall never again on this, our last day on Maui. P. again stand on beautiful Maui ; perhaps .the ran into Lahaina for mail and breakfast "House of the Sun" will ever be kept while I removed the accumulated dust sacred from my tread ; perhaps these eyes and oil of the past two and a half weeks shall never more look upon that wonder- from my wheel. ful Ditch Trail ; but deep in my heart will they all remain. And this I know, that Eighteenth Day—"Home, Sweet Home." nothing can ever dim the luster of those Twelve, midnight ! I am aboard the eighteen days—past, yet ever present ; vessel, homeward bound. Far over the gone, but here ; mine then, mine now, and waters a light is twinkling, twinkling, mine forever !

lao "Needle" Sugar Cane Blossoms By MARY DILLINGHAM FREAR STOOD upon the hill top Looking down and down Upon a countless array Hiding the plains of brown, Shoulder to shoulder martialed Nodding plume to nodding plume, n. Sunlight glinting on green sabres Pictured as in Gobelins' loom, Silent as the birth of morning, Certain as the day of doom. Ah, the sugar-cane in blossOrn! ('Tis November, you remember) Scent the delicate perfume. Soft gray tassel-flowers mean The crop is ready for the flume, For the mill and for the country, Energy in boundless store; For the starving, for the dying, Heaven-sent bounty more and more! I stood upon the hill top Looking down and down On that great vicarious army Worthy a world renown. Death for it our triumphing? Not without our self denial; Not without our test and trial; Earned, not giv'n the victor's crown! Self into the struggle fling, Then shall the harvest victory bring! Advertising Section

The Pacific Mail Steamship Co.

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The S.S. "Colombia" en route. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company Some of the features for the safety and has not only resumed its service between pleasure of passengers on these Pacific San Francisco via Honolulu to Japan, Ocean greyhounds are: wireless telegraphy China and the Philippines, but it is carry- and daily newspapers, watertight bulk- ing the American flag by its direct steamers heads, double bottoms, bilge keels, oil to India and to the Latin American Coast burners (no smoke or dirt), single rooms as far South as Panama, with connections and rooms with two beds, two washstands beyond, all along the Pacific South Amer- in each room, as well as large clothes' ican coast and with Europe. lockers, electric fans and electric reading The Pacific Mail Steamship Company lights for each bed, spacious decks, swim- operates indeed the one "American Round ming tank, Filipino band, veranda cafe, the Pacific Line" of comfortable and mod- beautiful dining saloons, large and small ern steamers. tables, and every comfort of modern ocean The vessels of the Pacific Mail Steam- travel with the best cuisine on the Pacific. ship Company are all splendid passenger The general offices of the Pacific Mail ships of 14,000 tons American registry. Steamship Company are at 508 California The new sister ships, "Colombia," "Ecua- Street, San Francisco, California, with or," and "Venezuela" constitute the service branch offices at Hongkong, Yokohama, to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai, Kobe, Shanghai and Manila, while agen- Manila and Hongkong. cies and sub-agencies exist in almost every The "Colusa" and the "Santa Cruz" are Pacific port, in all of the large cities of the pioneers in the service to Singapore, America and the rest of the world. Calcutta and Colombo via Manila. George J. Baldwin, President of the A fleet of steamers maintains the service Pacific Mail Steamship Company is located between San Francisco, Mexico, Central at 120 Broadway, New York City, N. Y.; American ports and Panama. John H. Rosseter, Vice-President and Gen- For the Tourist or Shipper to almost eral Manager; W. A. Young Jr., General any part of the Pacific, the new American vessels of the rejuvenated Pacific Mail Passenger Agent; and T. James, Freight Steamship Company offer inducements that Agent, at 508 California street, San Fran- are not being overlooked. cisco, California. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

"Little Journeys" About San Francisco

Golden Gate and San Francisco from Nob Hill.

"San Francisco has only one draw- San Francisco is world famous for the back," wrote Rudyard Kipling, " 'tis 'capacity of its people to get the best hard to leave." Why this omniscient out of life, a happy faculty which the traveler of "The Seven Seas" rendered new-corner quickly acquires. .There is such a tribute to the attractions of "the something in its free atmosphere that city loved around' the world" will be makes the visitor feel at home, rather better appreciated by those who take than "a stranger in a strange • town." some of the interesting "little journeys" After a drive up the panoramic Twin described in "TRIPS AROUND SAN Peaks Boulevard, then through the FRANCISCO" published by the South- matchless Golden Gate Park to the Ocean ern Pacific Company. Beach, you will return with an appetite Before leaving the Hawaiian Islands which will enable you to do justice to for the United States, tourists should the good things set before you at the obtain copies of this booklet which is particular one of San Francisco's many distributed free at the Southern Pacific noted cafes that you may select. And agency in the Waity Building, Honolulu. after an evening's entertainment at a En route to. San Francisco, they will sumptuously appointed theater, you will have ample time to plan their itineraries retire to one of the many palatial hotels, so as to include visits to some of these feeling that you are indeed a San Fran- places of romantic and scenic charm. ciscan "by brevet." Instead of hurrying through this fas- It would be usurping the usefulness cinating city on their way across Amer- of this comprehensive, but concise, book- ica by one of the four Southern Pacific let to do more than refer it to the trav- routes, they may well spend a month eler who desires to be well-informed con- in central California, taking a different cerning a region he expects to traverse. trip every day to its varied showplaces. Besides its descriptions of the city by While truly a typical, hustling Amer- the Golden Gate, the attractions of its ican community, San Francisco is most environs are set forth effectively. Among distinctively cosmopolitan. Its pic- twenty-six trips suggested to the sight- turesque "Chinatown"—to quote Kipling seer are pilgrimages to the old missions, again—is like "a ward of the city of and to Nature's shrines among the red-- Canton." Enterprising Japanese mer- woods and on the summits of such peaks chants rub sleeves with their Chinese as Mount Tamalpais, Monte Diablo and competitors, while to the northward Mount Hamilton, where the celebrated "Little Italy" climbs the steeps of Tele- graph Hill, looking down upon the mass- Lick Observatory is situated more than ed sky-scrapers in the solid business 4000 feet above the orchard mosaic of section. Santa Clara Valley. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

America's First Trans-Continental Railway, The Union-Pacific

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fiSSI;;. Union Pacific Railway ."oss SSW

SAM p.p. ElY, 1 C 0 across the Continent. S/T

A map of the Union Pacific Railway and connections.

Straight as an arrow across the Con- at 9 :00 a. m., two and one-half days later, tinent seems the line of the Union Pacific, with New York City but twenty hours the "Overland Route." beyond. This train has its barber shop, The Lincoln Highway parallels the bathrooms, ladies' maid, valet, stenog- Union Pacific Railroad its entire length. rapher, select library, stock and market re- Not only is it the business man's trans- ports by wire, club car for gentlemen, continental route, but the Union Pacific electric ventilation, compartments, and is the one railway system that reaches out drawing rooms en suite. It is travel de to the great National Parks and Monu- luxe in America. ments set aside by our government as the Yellowstone National Park is reached playgrounds of our American people. by the Union-Pacific System, as is Rocky The Overland Limited is the swift direct Mountain National Park in Colorado—the route between San Francisco, Chicago and great scenic area of that State about Den- the East, but there are stop-overs and side ver—tributary to and served by the Union- trips covering nearly all of America's great Pacific System. Western national parks and scenic wonders. S. F. Booth is General Agent of the The Overland leaves San Francisco at Union Pacific system in San Francisco, at 4:00 p. m. every day, arriving in Chicago 673 Market Street. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Most Interesting Route Across America

The Santa Fe

Along the line of the Santa Fe

The Santa Fe California Limited leaves starts for a twelve-mile drive through Yose- San Francisco daily at 9:00 a. m., ex- mite National Park. Train leaves Merced 8:00 a. m., arrives El Portal 11:35 a. m. clusively for first-class passengers, passing same day. Returning, leaves El Portal through the heart of California by day- 1:35 p. m., arrives Merced 5:10 p. m. light, reaching Yosemite region at 1:45 Round-Trip Fares to Yosemite Valley p.m., Grand Canyon, Arizona, at 7:30 a.m., (rail and automobile) from San Francisco, Chicago at 11:15 a. m., and New York $20.00; from Merced, $13.50; from Los City at 9:40 a. m., all convenient hours, Angeles, $29.50. Free baggage allowance, especially if stop-overs are to∎ be made. In 150 pounds on railroads and 50 pounds the opposite direction an equally convenient on stage. Stop-overs granted at Merced schedule for the tourist is maintained. on all classes of tickets for persons wishing Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Old World to take the Yosemite side trip. city in modern America, the Petrified for- Elegant Santa Fe trains—The Saint and est of Arizona, and the Laguna Indian The Angel—have been placed in service pueblos, are all worthy of visits, while the between San Diego, Los Angeles and San two scenic wonders of America west of Francisco, through the San Joaquin Valley Niagara Falls, are on the line of the Santa —a fast through night run both ways. Fe—Yosemite and the Grand Canyon. If you have not visited the Grand Can- This region of wonderful forests, stupen- yon of Arizona, you should stop off en dous waterfalls and towering cliffs is reach- route from California. ed by rail. You leave the Limited at Williams, Through Santa Fe trains connect at Arizona, stop a few hours at Fray Marcos Merced, Calif., with local trains of Yose- station hotel, and take a branch train to mite Valley R. R. to El Portal, where the Canyon—a quick run. When ready passengers are accommodated at Del Portal to resume eastbound journey, you take Hotel. Early each morning an automobile special Pullman at Grand Canyon. THE MID-PACIFIC 5

he Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco IT W. H. Haigue, Secretary, (Monadnock Building, San Francisco)

The Foreign Bldg., Seattle. Across-the-seas correspon- Trade Club of dents invited to write San Francisco office. S a n Francisco Banking and foreign trade go hand-in- hand. San Francisco boasts of some of meets every the most interesting and historic banks in Wednesday even- America. The Wells-Fargo National ing in the lecture Bank is perhaps the best known of these. hall of the Mer- It was founded in 1852, a pioneer of the chants Exchange Gold days, with a present capital and sur- Building, to lis- plus of $11,000,000 and assets of $75,000,- 000. It has been foremost in building up ten to some dis- the financial and business prestige of San tinguished over- Francisco, and has spread facilities for seas speaker, and trade across the Pacific. Deposits of visitors to study the ethics and correspondence are invited, exchange is of foreign export. issued, collections and payments effected, Visitors to San and safe deposit boxes provided. Francisco are in- The Pacific American Trading Com- vited to the lec- pany—Frank H. Stone, manager—offices in tures. Orient Building the Santa Marina Bldg., 112 Market St., Thomas W. San Francisco, and representatives in all Simmons & Co., countries. C. I. F. quotations given and with head offices on the ground floor at samples sent whenever practical, free. The 240 California Street, is represented in the motto of this house is "Service." Foreign Trade Club by its vice-president, Mr. H. W. Friesleben, of the Foreign F. S. Douglas. This very important firm Department of the Pacific Sanitary Manu- of International Merchants has branch facturing Company-67, New Mont- houses in New York, Seattle, and Hong- gomery street, San Francisco—is the firm kong. Specializing as it does in Oriental representative in the Foreign Trade Club. products, it has its own representatives in His firm has installed, "Pacific" plumbing every large city from Yokohama, Japan, to in many of the public schools of San Fran- Sourabaya, Java, and Bambok in Burmah. cisco and California, and has trade rela- All codes used; cable address, "Simmons, tions with eve:y part of the Pacific. San Francisco." The home office of the Sperry Flour The President of the Foreign Trade Company is in the Orient Building, 332 Club is William H. Hammer, of the Ship- Pine street, San Francisco, the headquar- ping and Commission firm of Hammer and ters of Pan-Pacific Trade. A Sperry Pro- Company, 310 Clay street (Phone Sutter duct, whether it be flour or cereal, will 54). Visitors to the Commercial Muesum earn appieciation around the Pacific, be- in the Monadnock Building may reach this cause everything that men, method, and and other Foreign Trade Club firms by modern machinery can do to make it phone, free service being supplied. worthy of favor has been done before it Mr. Ben C. Daily, of the Foreign Trade appears on the grocer's shelves. Club, is the representative in San Francisco The members of the Associated Manu- of the Overseas Shipping Company, his facturers Importing Company, 883 Market office being in the Merchants Exchange street, have been established in business in Building ( Phone Sutter 4459). This con- San Francisco since 1857. They specialize cern reserves space on Pacific vessels for in hardware, tools and metals. Imports its customers at lowest rates, is efficient, and and exports of all raw or manufactured handles all details in connection with ap- products that amount to a large volume, plications for Government Export licenses. undertaken. This company has large re- Other offices at 327 La Salle St., Chicago; sources, good people to act as American 17 Battery Place, New York ; L. C. Smith Buying Agents for Overseas Merchants. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car I

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress; in fact, of this wondrously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit on suburbs. the car lines. At Waikiki often may be There appeared in the Mid-Pacific seen from the cars men and boys disporting Magazine for January, 1915, an article themselves on their surfboards, as they telling of a hundred sights to be seen come in standing before the waves on these from the street cars. little bits of wood. The cars in Honolulu are all open, for At one end of the King street car line the temperature never goes below 68 de- is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, grees, nor does it rise above 85 degrees, from which may be seen the cane lands and and there is always a gentle trade wind rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in stirring. the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter When Honolulu was ready for her is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid markable Polynesian collection in the Transit & Land Co. completed the most world. At the other end of the line is perfect system of its kind in the world, Kapiolani Park, a beautiful tropical garden, and it is always a delight to ride smoothly in which is located the famous aquarium of over its lines. Hawaiian fishes, rivaled only by the aqua- It is but twenty minutes by car to Wai- rium in Naples. kiki beach and but five minues longer, by Transfers are given to branch lines the same car, to the wonderful aquarium penetrating several of the wonderfully in Kapiolani Park. THE I.uD-PACHIC ,

I The Island of Maui j' ===~ ;;=:====-===::::;;;;:::;::=-

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TIJ< firm of Ak..nde, & B,ldwin, Ltd., Co, Am.,;.,," ern..l lnou,lI.IIC< Co., 'n,o (known by everyone .. "A. & B.") ls Home In,o",\C< Co. of New ,Yo,k, The look. Ltd~ ••• _ Alliance: I"", n"" A.-iation, S.nu..", ',I< .... lorp 1llP' pion, of .... H. bnd Man... lnaa"""" Co., Ltd. --... blando aDIII lorcoo< in the 'The .... 01,1>;0 10.... anoI "'''1'..,;,.., "..rlq' .,.. .1"" ~" fo' m.ny o,h", pi.". .re fo, ,he llood of H.w.ii, fon"",,; to,;"", 'nd pon)', I'.in W. M. Ak••nd Fi Vice-Pru. Plan ion, ~hui AJ[ricuhur.o.l Company. ]. R. G,lt ._. ~ Vice-I'..... H.~i2ol Supr eon.on,.. &IcBr)"lie Sup, W. O. Son"h Third Vice-Pm. C_, L

•••••■•■•■••••••••■•••••■•••••••■•■■• The Island of Kuai

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa-

VCOUYER latial ocean greyhound service between San SCATT Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar facturs and insurance agents; Phone 1251. aariA Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for many of the plantations throughout Ha- waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle LI Cooke, Ltd.

NONOLVI NORMAL SOODt, otAtf at ii■us

KAUAI 547 tw.MiasA.osa Elavotion 5RSy0 fast PARD A DistoPot Irons Hunat.iuO #44itiork.. for gtado Pe0p,4 WILLI 44, tar la Plant.ried 5,4 iv Crap for i607. THE MID-PACIFIC 9

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

AAt .015— H. -oat. P;p:Lation 0k (1,mM 1,4°' oLorri I, O II iiSo ToeLai 5,0r PI ,t7 ,1a. IcaGtop fcr 0,6.. L37,725

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chile, while When one speaks of the fertilizer business tons of sulphur u-e brought direct from of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano Japan to the works. It costs, ordinarily, and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the fifty dollars acre to fertilize pineapple sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- lands, unless it is the fertilizer from the plied by this company. A very large con- Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. that is em today, the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer used, when the expense is cut in half. If Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry you need fertilizer for your garden or which followed the discovery of rich guano your plantation, call up Phone No. 1585, deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits and the Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Co. have been so depleted that the company now will gladly advise you, making a chemical secures its supply from other Pacific islands, analysis of the soil, if necessary, and mix- and at the same time is a large exporter ing the fertilizer in accord with the de- of other articles used in the manufacture of mands of the soil. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII. Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firm was changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on Fort and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur- ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Located in the heart of the business cen- ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

HOME FERTILIZING. For the small planter this company makes The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a house west of the Rockies. The works of special lawn fertilizer made by this com- this company cover several acres near Hono- pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii lulu. The ingredients are purchased in the garden of the Pacific. shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry the different plantations for their fertilizers establishment on Fort Street, is one of are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil- Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- verware display is well worth a morning's lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. study.

Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment 16 THE MID-PACIFIC

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King Streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the United States Government.

The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On Dec. 30, 1916, the deposits with this bank amounted to $10,714,285.79. The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort Street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., is the most recently incorporated Trust Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, directors and officers are men of ability, the central bank of Honolulu, with a integrity and high standing in the com- capital, surplus and undivided profits munity. The Company was incorporated amounting to nearly a million and a half, in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 or more than the total of any other bank fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1917, magnificent building at the busiest busi- the Capital of the Company was $200,- ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and 000; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided Fort streets; has a savings department and Profits $53,306.75. It conducts a trust was organized in 1897. company business in all its various lines The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- with offices in the Stangenwald Building. cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- Merchant St., adjoining the Bank of chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware frtbEROID ROOM* department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC

-11 The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has mobile dealers, have their offices and store recently extended its rails thirty-two miles in the Alexander Young Building, at the along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe corner of King and Bishop Streets, and and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip their magnificent automobile salesroom and is one of the scenic trips of the world. The garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite street. Here one may find almost any- direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a thing. Phone No. 4901. branch with the Auto Service takes the Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge chief port, and from Hilo excursions are of the ever-active Kilauea. made to all the points of interest. The CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- the matter of home promotion work and is press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island developing the wonderful scenic surround- S. S. Co., Honolulu, for special inclusive ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo excursion rates.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. THE MID-PACIFIC 19

THE AUTOMOBILE IN HAWAII The phenomenal growth of the automo- bile industry throughout the United States is reflected in the rapid strides made by the Schuman Carriage Company in the past four years. From a comparatively small beginning the Schuman Carriage Company has grown to be the largest dealers in au- tomobiles and carriages, and all acces- sories pertaining thereto, in the Territory of Hawaii. The Schuman Carriage Company has enlarged its floor space many times, and at the present time is occupying a new con- crete building which proves a substantial addition to the automobile industry in Hawaii. The Schuman Company handle a line of cars which allows the purchaser ample scope for a choice. With the Pierce-Arrow as a high-priced leader, the Franklin, Hud- son, Oldsmobile, Studebaker, Chalmers, Overland and Ford can be found on the salesroom floor. The manufacture of farm wagons, paint- ing of automobiles, automobile tops and seat covers, occupy quite a large amount of floor space in the Schuman establishment, and is in the hands of the most competent men in that line of work to be found in the Territory. 22 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand I I

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also the world that offers such an aggrega- built splendid roads and wonderful mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate, a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand), a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America, with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as they from America by the Union Steamship do among mountains that rise sheer ten Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- thousand feet. Among these mountains cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- are some of the largest and most scenic ship Co. also transfers passengers from glaciers in the world. In these Southern Sydney. The Government Tourist Bu- Alps is Mt. Cook,, more than twelve thou- reau has commodious offices in Auck- sand feet high. On its slopes the Govern- land and Wellington as well as the other ment has built a hotel to which there is a larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- motor car service. formation and pamphlets may be secured New Zealand was the first country to by writing to the New Zealand Govern- perfect the government tourist bureau. ment Tourist Bureau, Wellington, New She has built hotels and rest houses Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 23

New South Wales

The Macdonald, an arm of the Hawkesbury River. New South Wales welcomes the tourist. golden beaches, the Blue Mountains, Jeno- The Goverment Tourist Bureau, Sydney, lan Caves and Mt. Kosciusko. gives free advice and assistance to those who want to know: what to see, where to stay, Write for literature and information to how to get there, and what to pay. You Fred C. Govers, Government Tourist should visit: Port Jackson Harbor, Sydney's Bureau, Sydney, N. S. W. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

South Australia and Tasmania

SOUTH AUSTRALIA. TASMANIA.

From San Francisco, Vancouver and Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- from Honolulu there are two lines of fast sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten hours' run from the Australian mainland. steamships to Sydney, Australia. Between Launceston and Melborune the From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- fastest turbine steamer in Australia runs tralia, there is a direct railway line on thrice weekly and there is a regular service which concession fares are granted tourists from Sydney to Hobart. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to The island is a prolific orchard country the Australian Commonwealth can afford and has some of the finest fruit growing tracts in the world. •The climate is cooler to neglect visiting the southern central state than the rest of Australia. of Australia; for South Australia is the The lakes and rivers are nearly all state of superb climate and unrivalled re- stocked with imported trout, which grow sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the to weights not reached by other parts of South,' is the Capital, and there is a Govern- Australia. ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau, The Tasmanian Government deals di- where the tourist, investor, or settler is rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- given accurate information, guaranteed by the government, and free to all. From ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river ian Government Tourist Department; and and motor excursions to almost every part of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted the oureau will arrange for transport of the through the magnificent mountain and visit, to any part of the island. A shilling pastoral scenery of South Australia. The trip co a local resort is not too small for the government makes travel easy by a system Government Bureau to handle, neither is a of coupon tickets and facilities for caring tour of the whole island too big. There for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions is a branch office in Launceston performing are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- the same functions. viduals or parties are made familiar with The Tasmanian Government has an up- the industrial resources, and the American to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William as well as the Britisher is made welcome if Street, next door to the Ne,..v. Zealand Gov- he cares to make South Australia his home. ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, The South Australian Intelligence and and information can be produced. The ad- Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on dress of the Sydney office is 262 George King "William Street, Adelaide, and the St., and Tasmania also has its own offices government has printed many illustrated in Bisbane and Perth. books and pamphlets describing the scenic For detailed information regarding Tas- and industrial resources of the state. A mania, either as to travel or settlement, postal card or letter to the Intelligence and enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Gov- books and information you may desire. ernment Tourisr Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. From San Francisco Around the Pacific

Toyo Kisen Kaisha is the largest steam- out extra cost. It is real economy to get ship company operating between San Fran- the most your money will buy. cisco, Hawaii, Japan, and the Orient. It These attractive tickets are on sale maintains fast and frequent service across at every railroad ticket office. They may the Pacific, following the "Pathway of the be bought as easily and cost no more than Sun" along the semi-tropic route. This is tickets that include much less. one of the most delightful ocean voyages In San Francisco, the Pacific Steamship in the world, as it carries the passenger Company has spacious offices at 112 over smoothest seas and, by touching at Market street, as well as agencies in every Honolulu, affords a pleasant break in the city on the Pacific Coast, and in the larger journey. The steamers of this line are cities of America. E. G. McMicken is of the most advanced types, having been the general manager in San Francisco. built especially for this service. Several hotels in San Francisco make a The fleet consists of vessels of various specialty of entertaining visitors from Ha- sizes, from the giant liners of 22,000 tons, waii and Pacific lands. The Hotel Stew- to the smaller but no less comfortable ves- art, on Geary street, just off Union Square, sels of 10,000 tons. is a new steel-concrete-brick structure, with Toyo Kisen Kaisha maintains its own 300 rooms, and 300 connecting bathrooms. agents in the principal cities of the world, The rates are $1.50 a day, with an addi- thus enabling travelers to secure definite tional cost of sixty cents for breakfast, sixty information regarding rates and sailings at cents for lunch, and one dollar for dinner. all times. The head office is in Tokyo, Japan, with This hotel is in the center of the theatre a general office in Yokohama. The San and retail districts, on car lines transferring Francisco office is on the fourth floor of to all parts of the city. The hotel motor- the Merchants National Bank Building bus meets trains and steamers. at 625 Market street, and in Honolulu it The Clift, San Francisco's likable hotel, is care of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. is at the corner of Geary and Taylor The Pacific Steamship Company oper- streets. Obadiah Rich is manager and this ates palatial steamers from Alaska to the means much to people from Pacific lands Mexican border. visiting Sara Francisco, who desire location It has arranged with all the railroads in the down-town district with perfect ser- of the United States and Canada for trip.; vice. The rates are right, reasonable, on along the Pacific Coast, without other cost both American and European plans. Every than unused portions of railway tickets. room has an adjoining bath. For one Should your destination be San Fran- person, European plan, $2.00 to $4.00 cisco-Oakland, you can make the trip either per day; for two, $3.50 to $6.00. Amer- through Los Angeles, using the ocean ican, plan, $5.00 a day and up. The hotel steamers from Los Angeles to San Fran- is absolutely fireproof and reservations may cisco, or else you can proceed by railroad be made by wire or mail. Frederick C. to Seattle-Tacoma-Victoria and from there Clift is president of the company. experience the delights of an ocean voyage. . San Francisco's newest hotel is the Plaza, As berth and meals are included at sea, facing Union Square, Post and Stockton you will have no extra expense. streets. It has a capacity of 600 guests; 'Tis said, "Americans are always in a European plan, $1.50 to $5.00 a day; hurry," but thousands will welcome the American plan, $3.00 to $7.00 a day. There opportunity to see more cities, more of the are numerous combination sample rooms. wonderful country in which they live, and C. A. Gonder is the manager of the Hotel , to gain larger and valuable experience with- Plaza Company. The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains front Holmlull to the beautiful Huleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehan. Also e Line I auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pine- apple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $10 covers all expenses of I his Iwo-day trip.

FAINTED By HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.