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Wall Free Climb in the World by Tommy Caldwell
FREE PASSAGE Finding the path of least resistance means climbing the hardest big- wall free climb in the world By Tommy Caldwell Obsession is like an illness. At first you don't realize anything is happening. But then the pain grows in your gut, like something is shredding your insides. Suddenly, the only thing that matters is beating it. You’ll do whatever it takes; spend all of your time, money and energy trying to overcome. Over months, even years, the obsession eats away at you. Then one day you look in the mirror, see the sunken cheeks and protruding ribs, and realize the toll taken. My obsession is a 3,000-foot chunk of granite, El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. As a teenager, I was first lured to El Cap because I could drive my van right up to the base of North America’s grandest wall and start climbing. I grew up a clumsy kid with bad hand-eye coordination, yet here on El Cap I felt as though I had stumbled into a world where I thrived. Being up on those steep walls demanded the right amount of climbing skill, pain tolerance and sheer bull-headedness that came naturally to me. For the last decade El Cap has beaten the crap out of me, yet I return to scour its monstrous walls to find the tiniest holds that will just barely go free. So far I have dedicated a third of my life to free climbing these soaring cracks and razor-sharp crimpers. Getting to the top is no longer important. -
Seattle the Potential for More Depth and Richness Than Any Other Culture I Can Think Of
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG ANNUAL REPORT SPECIAL EDITION SPRING 2016 • VOLUME 110 • NO. 2 MountaineerEXPLORE • LEARN • CONSERVE The Doug Walker I Knew PAGE 12 Your Go-To Adventure Buddy PAGE 16 Leading the Way - Annual Report PAGES 19 - 40 Rescue on Dome Peak PAGE 41 2 mountaineer » spring 2016 tableofcontents Spring 2016 » Volume 110 » Number 2 Annual Report The Mountaineers enriches lives and communities by helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy 19 Leading the Way the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. The Mountaineers Annual Report 2015 Features 12 The Doug Walker I knew a special tribute by Glenn Nelson 16 Your Go-To Adventure Buddy an interview with Andre Gougisha 41 Rescue on Dome Peak Everett Mountaineers save the day 16 Columns 6 PEAK FITNESS reducing knee pain 7 MEMBER HIGHLIGHT Tom Vogl 8 OUTDOOR EDUCATION from camper to pioneer 10 SAFETY FIRST VHF radios and sea kayaking 14 CONSERVATION CURRENTS our four conservation priorities 46 RETRO REWIND Wolf Bauer - a wonderful life 50 BRANCHING OUT your guide to the seven branches 52 GO GUIDE activities and courses listing 60 OFF BELAY 41 celebrating lives of cherished members 63 LAST WORD explore by Steve Scher Mountaineer magazine would like to thank The Mountaineers Foundation for its financial assistance. The Foundation operates as Discover The Mountaineers a separate organization from The Mountaineers, which has received about one-third of the Foundation’s gifts to various nonprofit If you're thinking of joining — or have joined and aren’t sure where organizations. to start — why not set a date to Meet The Mountaineers? Check the Branching Out section of the magazine for times and locations of Mountaineer uses: informational meetings at each of our seven branches. -
The Dawn Wall
AAC Publications The Dawn Wall The Long Struggle For The World's Hardest Big-Wall Free Climb Standing at the base of the Dawn Wall on December 27, 2014, I attempt to break the nervous tension. “It’s the low-pressure push,” I say with a grin. I know it’s bullshit. Once we start, we’re going to the top. “One pitch at a time,” Tommy responds. I nod and start climbing. Six years earlier, I was sitting on top of a 55-foot boulder at the Buttermilks in Bishop, California. Just a few moments before, I’d been 45 feet off the deck, ropeless, on my most ambitious highball first ascent to date. For the past two years, I’d constantly put myself in positions like this. I was obsessed with pushing the standards of highball bouldering, rolling the dice with each sketchy first ascent. Ambrosia pushed the bar even higher, not just blurring the lines between highball and solo but crossing it. To continue meant becoming a free soloist, and I was unwilling. Not only did I need a new project, I needed a new discipline of the sport. The climbing film Progression, released in late summer of 2009, featured both Ambrosia and Tommy Caldwell’s new big-wall free climbing project. When I saw the closing scene of Tommy’s segment, I heard an invitation: “I look at this next generation of climbers doing things on the boulders and sport climbs that I can’t conceive of. If they could apply that kind of talent to the big walls, that’s what it would take to free climb this project. -
ALP 48 Caldwell.Pdf
THE ECHO OF THE WIND 84 THE ECHO OF THE WIND TOMMY CALDWELL PHOTOS BY AUSTIN SIADAK “I DON’T KNOW ABOUT THIS,” I SAY. HUGE BLOBS OF RIME CLING TO THE WALL ABOVE. A WATERFALL RUNS OUT FROM A HOLE IN THE MOUNTAIN THAT RESEMBLES THE MOUTH OF A DRAGON. ICICLES GLISTEN LIKE GIANT TEETH. THE AIR IS STILL, BUT IN MY MIND, THE MEMORY OF THE WIND ROARS LIKE A DIN OF INHUMAN VOICES AND A RATTLE OF ICE AND STONES. 85 I look down at Alex Honnold for reassurance. get there,” Topher said, “we’re going to have to go His back has stiffened; his eyebrows are slightly straight into the mountains and start climbing.” furrowed. “Dude, you got this,” he says. “You’re a He was already dressed in his ratty synthetic pants total boss.” What have I gotten us into? I wonder. and a polypro shirt. I forced my eyelids shut. I Just three days ago, we were walking down the woke up when the rattling stopped. newly paved streets of El Chaltén, our footsteps From a distance, the peaks were hard to com- quick with anticipation. Alex had never been to prehend. Tumbling glaciers and jagged shapes Patagonia before. made a strange contrast to the desert plains that To the west, the evening sky washes in pale surrounded them. We dragged our duffel bags past purple. Far below, the shadow of the Fitz Roy a few scattered buildings. As plumes of dust blew massif stretches across the eastern plains: steep, in, we pulled our collars over our noses. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1. -
Reel Rock Press Release
It’s been a big year in climbing – from Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s epic saga on the Dawn Wall to the tragic loss of Dean Potter, one of the sport’s all-time greats. In our 10th year, the REEL ROCK Film Tour will celebrate them all with an incredible lineup of films that go beyond the headlines to stories that are both intimate and awe-inspiring. REEL ROCK 10 FILM LINEUP A LINE ACROSS the SKY 35 mins The Fitz Roy traverse is one of the most sought after achievements in modern alpinism: a gnarly journey across seven jagged summits and 13,000 vertical feet of climbing. Who knew it could be so much fun? Join Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on the inspiring – and at times hilarious – quest that earned the Piolet d’Or, mountaineering’s highest prize. HIGH and MIGHTY 20 mins High ball bouldering – where a fall could lead to serious injury – is not for the faint of heart. Add to the equation a level of difficulty at climbing’s cutting edge, and things can get downright out of control. Follow Daniel Woods’ epic battle to conquer fear and climb the high ball test piece The Process. SHOWDOWN at HORSESHOE HELL 20 mins 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell is the wildest event in the climbing world; a mash-up of ultramarathon and Burning Man where elite climbers and gumbies alike go for broke in a sun-up to sun-down orgy of lactic acid and beer. But all fun aside, the competition is real: Can the team of Nik Berry and Mason Earle stand up Clockwise from top left: Alex Honnold at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell; adventure sport icon Dean Potter; against the all-powerful Alex Honnold? Kevin Jorgeson on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite; Tommy Caldwell on the Dawn Wall in Yosemite DEAN POTTER TRIBUTE DAWN WALL: FIRST LOOK 6 mins 15 mins Dean Potter was the most iconic vertical adventurer of a Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson’s epic final push to free climb generation. -
Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments. -
Free Solo (2018) 4,652 This PG-13 | 1H 40Min | Documentary | 21 March 2019 (Germany)
IMDb Find Movies, TV shows, Celebrities and more... All | Help | Movies, TV Celebs, Events News & & Showtimes & Photos Community Watchlist Sign in FULL CAST AND CREW | TRIVIA | USER REVIEWS | IMDbPro | MORE SHARE Watch Our Favorite Trailers of the Week 8.6/10 Rate Free Solo (2018) 4,652 This PG-13 | 1h 40min | Documentary | 21 March 2019 (Germany) Watch all of our favorite trailers of the week in under a minute, including "The Umbrella Academy," "The Boys," and more. 0:31 | Trailer 4 VIDEOS | 23 IMAGES Watch our trailer of trailers » Coming Soon Release Date: March 21 Related News Follow Alex Honnold as he becomes the first person to ever free solo climb Yosemite's 3,000ft high El Capitan Wall. With no ropes or safety gear, he completed arguably the greatest feat in Nat Geo Acquires Leonardo DiCaprio- Produced Documentary ‘Sea of Shadows’ rock climbing history. 31 minutes ago | The Wrap Directors: Jimmy Chin, Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi 'How To Train Your Dragon 3' soars to UK Stars: Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, Alex Honnold | See full cast & crew » box office summit 5 hours ago | ScreenDaily Add to Watchlist Box Office: ‘Free Solo’ Becomes Second- Biggest Documentary of 2018 Metascore Reviews Popularity 83 22 hours ago | Variety From metacritic.com 68 user | 61 critic 224 ( 9) Oscar Interviews: 'Roma,' 'The Favourite,' and More See all related articles » Around The Web Powered by ZergNet Actors Who Were Great Movies That Replaced and No One Were Ruined By One Noticed Scene Watch our interviews with the casts of Oscar nominees Roma, The Favourite, Bohemian Rhapsody, and more. -
Advanced Rock Climbing
SPORTS / CLIMBING / HOW-TO $24.95 U.S. “This book needed to be written, and there is no better person MOUNTAINEERS O UTDOOR to write it than Topher Donahue.” MOUNTAINEERS —Tommy Caldwell series OUTDOOR EXPERT series E TAKE IT TO A NEW LEVEL XPERT Climber and former guide Topher Donahue not only knows a thing or two about serious climbing; he also knows how to achieve an even higher level. In Advanced Rock Climbing, Donahue draws ROCK CLIMBING ADVANCED efficiency tips from alpine and big wall climbers and training tips from gym climbers, while getting some of the biggest names in climbing to share the secrets of their success. Whether it’s how to save time on multipitch climbs by paring down the gear you carry and leading in blocks, the advantages of an active belayer, or why it matters whether you approach a new route with an onsight or redpoint mentality, Donahue has you covered. “Advanced rock climbing is an independent, self-ruling, intuitive, flexible, creative, anything-goes-as- backcover tagline, long-as-it’s-done-safely kind of climbing.” baseline of text is .25” —Topher Donahue front cover, logo lines up ush left at .25” from spine, from bottom of book Where other climbing guidebooks focus on how to tie particular knots and make specific moves,backcover tagline, Donahue digs deeper to get to the why behindbaseline such basics. of text You’ll is progress.25’’ from beyond applying textbook baseline of text is .25” front cover, logo lines up lessons to, instead, choosing for yourself the best optionsbottom for ofyour book particular situation. -
TREADWALL CHALLENGE Climber: Climbing
TREADWALL CHALLENGE Climber: Climbing Log Hald Dome - Regular NW Face Pitch Crux Vert Feet Start Time Distance Time Date 1 5.11 160 2 5.9 100 3 5.8 105 4 5.10a 110 5 5.9 100 6 5.9 145 7 5.8 135 8 scramble 120 9 5.9 100 10 5.12c A0 80 11 5.10a 80 12 5.11c 130 13 5.7 100 14 5.9 70 15 5.9 100 16 5.9 100 17 5.9 100 18 5.12a 100 19 5.12a 120 20 5.9 40 21 5. 90 22 5.12a 90 23 5.7 120 24 scramble 200 TOTAL 2595 TREADWALL – Triple Crown Challenge GOAL - Climb the same vertical meters of every "Pitch" of Yosemite’s Triple Crown challenge using the Source Treadwall. Background - The Triple Crown is a challenge to climb the three biggest walls in Yosemite – El Cap, Mt. Watkins, and Half Dome – in a single day. The only people that have successfully completed the linkup are some of the best climbers in the history of Yosemite. The Triple Crown was first climbed in 2001 by Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill, the speed-climbing dream team that broke Hans Florine and Peter Croft's nine-year-old speed record on the Nose of El Capitan. Unlike Honnold and Caldwell, Potter and O'Neill aided their way through difficult sections, using gear to support their weight rather than pulling on holds. Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neal completed the climb in 21 hours and 37 minutes. -
MAD RIVER GORGE 11 AF Perspective
VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of Access Fund Summer 17/Volume 109 www.accessfund.org Climb Hard, Give Back? page 8 LATEST THREATS TO PUBLIC LANDS SUBTLE BUT DANGEROUS 5 ACCESS TO TENNESSEE’S CLEAR CREEK SECURED! 7 OHIO CLIMBERS’ BIG SCORE: MAD RIVER GORGE 11 AF Perspective “ I’ve learned that people will forget what you for the way I had passed the other parties on the route. I ended up calling him, and we had a civil if somewhat tense said, people will forget what you did, but people conversation. We discussed the ethics and techniques of will never forget how you made them feel.” passing, and the merit of asking permission to pass when you’re halfway up a big wall with no bivy gear. I apologized – MAYA ANGELOU to him and said I’d write up an article about my experience and share it one day. wo years ago, I climbed the Regular Northwest Face So, today, in our world so full of conflict and news of our of Half Dome in a day with a good friend of mine. It fractious society, I reflect on what I did wrong, and I think it T was just a month before pitches 10 and 11 fell off all comes down to this: I forgot to be kind and considerate. in a massive rockfall event, but aside from the chimneys I could write a long article on the ins and outs of passing, feeling a bit more spacious than I had remembered from a and how to manage your ropes and your interactions with previous ascent, nothing felt amiss. -
It's Always Bef- Ore Dark
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson may well be climbing’s first household names. But not everyone knows the demons they stared down when they completed the world’s toughest free climb. Drive into Yosemite National Park from the West and the great slab of rock called El Capitan rises in all its burnished glory so quickly and so definitively one wonders if John Muir, the park’s legendary godfather, arranged things so visitors would be inspired IT'S to get the hell out of their cars. Luckily, there’s a meadow along the road that splays out before the 3,000-foot, near-vertical monolith making it easy enough for humans to grab a quick slice of humble pie before venturing further into the park. ALWAYS Though winter is off-season in Yosemite, the meadow has hosted more guests than usual this season as spectators gathered to gaze through binoculars at two men engulfed in a dramatic quest to free climb El Capitan’s Dawn Wall, rated by those who know as the most difficult big-wall, free climb in the world. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson had been failing miserably at this pursuit for years, but through the miracle of social media, and perhaps because the world is in dire need of things to cheer for, this particular attempt captured the imagination of folks who had never picked up a climbing magazine and likely never will. A week after their attempt, Caldwell and Jorgeson are wolfing down large cheeseburgers in the vast dining hall of the Ahwanhee Hotel in the heart of Yosemite Village.